SONOFF 10 Amp WiFi Switch

A Sonoff wifi activated switch is taken apart to see what is inside, and then tested to see how much power it uses.
This one claims to work from 90-250 volts and be capable of switching 10 amps.
XTX Chip: www.xtxtech.com/en/products.as...
WIFI : espressif.com/en/products/har...
RELAY: en.hke.cn/article/id-816
Patreon: / jwflame
Contact info, sending stuff in etc.: xo4.uk/?YTT

[@TomWoodland]

Yay!!! My Sonoff submission!

[@Minimalist11Guy]

A truly amazing and well presented video and I love your meter.

[@iN00bT00ber]

I really wanted you to push the full 10A though the thing - see if it could take it

[@jwflame]

That will be happening in a future video.

[@BenjaminEsposti]

And then perhaps if it passes, try to increase the current even further and see how far it can go before blowing (or at least see what goes first lol). Also, it would be interesting to see if the MOV would burn up when given a surge. This looks to have an unprotected MOV, which is a big no-no.

[@markajoseph1980]

ive got these and the light switches they work very well

[@gentledracula9502]

And still works?

[@rmhutchins7]

I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!

[@petergoodman6737]

This has Helped Me Thanks

[@roelskiunplugged1134]

Not connected to wifi may actually change the consumption. Running some of these with tasmota firmware myself. The pow version (16A with power consumption measurement) does not have the bodge capacitor btw, and has its own fuse (quality unknown) with better separation.

[@UKProg]

Thanks for this video, John. I have one of these and am glad to hear it's reasonably safe to use. It works very well when flashed with Tasmota or ESPEasy but I wouldn't trust the official firmware and app for the reasons you state.

[@chanh9220]

New to Sonoff. If I flash to Tasmota. Could I still control Sonoff remotely via application?

[@joshuarosen6242]

@@chanh9220 You are unlikely to see this but just in case anyone else wonders the same thing, the answer is yes but not with the standard Sonoff application.

[@philje123]

Got several of these including a 16A POW (power monitoring) and a Touch light switch. All running Sonoff Tasmota firmware. There is even a tool called Sonota for flashing them that means you can do it with no soldering involved! They integrate perfectly into Home Assistant using MQTT. The only thing I dislike is the lack of earth passthrough on the basic modules. Best to just leave the earth wire intact and loop is round the back of the unit and just connect the L and N to either end.

[@Glasrandkante]

Interesting! I have one of those laying around - not tested yet - and I opened it - that bondged in capacitor isn't there with mine. Is it possible to have that thing measured? I don't think that the chinese wouldn't spent money in bondging if it wasn't really necessary

[@Tokody]

...from their manual, "Many people care about CE certification very much SME will also work on it." Yes but it is illegal to sell it in the EU without it.

[@dantheman5596]

Is it possible that you make a video explaining power factor. Great video as usual :)

[@koffibanan3099]

Hi John, I'd like to see this unit destroyed by means of the welding transformer. Much obliged!! :)

[@KingOfKYA]

the power supply might be ground referenced to the high/line side. so separation may not matter. just a quick glace at the passive components make me think it might be

[@KingOfKYA]

in refrance to the separation of micro to line/live wire.

[@angelazura]

My Sonoff doesn't have that bodged in capacitor. Any idea why they would have put that in there?

[@markhorton8578]

When they built up the solder around the terminals there was a danger that the solder could run down the terminal pins and build up under the terminals between the pins. That is why they have put slots under the terminals, to check that had not happened.

[@OthmanAlikhan]

Thanks for the video =)

[@tonyweavers4292]

Hi John, How did you manage to escape a jolt from the 400v Cap? They do hurt! :)

[@BigPJB]

Hi there it looks to be switching the neutral with live passing through would it make any difference swapping polarity so live was being switched as it’s on ac?

[@davemason2654]

Thanks for all the information very good video do you know what the chip is with SL ON to the right of the Wi-Fi chip near the square header whole? At 6:09 in your video

[@marshrealm]

Hi John, just came across your very detailed analysis of the Sonoff 10 amp WiFi switch. Thank you. I have a question about his product. Do you know if the power is interrupted does the device retain its memory or does it have to be re-paired with the APP or RF controller? Please advise if you know . Thanks in advance

[@uktoker71]

They retain their settings. Just give them about 10 to 20 seconds to reconnect and all is good.

[@Tangobaldy]

would it be safer to replace a track with an insulated wire?

[@combie81]

I have actually thought about doing this and removing as much of the neutral track as possible to reduce the risk of arcing. If I get a chance I'll let you know how it goes.

[@luongmaihunggia]

Steven McCombie it's been 10 months, have you try it?

[@gordonr6532]

It would be helpful to see how hot it gets when at 10 Amp max load

[@djr3485]

Did you discharge those caps before touching the underside of the board?

Congrats, Mr Ward! Nice video!! Could you please explain how use SOnOff in a 220V network (two Lives and no Neutral wire)?

[@stephencasey5934]

You can't

[@joshuarosen6242]

You'll probably never see this comment but thank you for asking this question. I'm English and I had no idea you had this weird two phase 240V arrangement as well as the 120V system. I have learnt something today.

[@JMcBride1985]

I have a few of the plug in versions of these and so far they seem to be reliable at switching lamps. I have also loaded my own firmware on them to integrate into my own home automation system. I didn't even power them up with the original firmware. For what they cost, I'm really impressed.

[@combie81]

I've a lot of these through my house - reprogrammed using the serial port on the device(to right of mem chip) to use a custom firmware - no sneaky foreign apps required and I can run them purely internally on my own entwork. That BN25F08 is 1MB flash mem to store the webpage/interface. The great thing with these is they power off TV's/lights/devices etc with my automation system running from a pi3 Overall there should be a saving as they are no longer in standby for 15+ hours a day. The seperation is rather skimpy and sadly I've had 2 blow and the negative track is always the one that's exploded from the board. On that note the terminal blocks are also very small and should ideally have better inlets. My only big drawback to this is the lack of earth passthrough so if using on an earther device PLEASE ALWAYS splice it into a 3 core wire leaving the earth intact and pass it through the case(ample room inside to route it) to ensure there is still a connection to earth. I always wondered about the power consumption and and very pleased with your findings :) I would like to know the arcing voltage/amps at where the tracks will blow and destroy the unit. I should also note on my ones that have blown the casing took the full impact with ease and no compromises in the shell.

[@DogsBAwesome]

I've got one for my 3d printer, yes the earth will have to be passed through. I've not put it in yet and would be interested in how to reprogram it.

[@BenjaminEsposti]

Steven McCombie This device seems dangerous to me because it has an unprotected MOV. When MOV's die, they get hot and can cause a fire if you don't have the proper thermal protection in the design... :/

[@DogsBAwesome]

You could say that about the millions of electronic devices with a MOV on the input

[@combie81]

+Benjamin Esposti True - but I can honestly say that the ones I've had go bad have all popped safeky - for lack of a better term - and it's been the track that failed and it's always been on a power-up so I'm putting it down to a spike/surge which is why I'd love to see John test these to see what they can actually take. I must admit that one did blow due to a short i created when screwing in the cables on the output and didn't check properly that there was a spare strand.

[@Tokody]

Didn't see a CE mark - if it is compliant there will be one. Couldn't find a Declaration of Conformity either. No confidence in it being safe. I'll be keeping my barge pole well away thanks.

[@tbbw]

A quick google revealed that people are hacking these things so you can run them without the apps or any unknown factor in the firmware inside of these. I recommend checking that out if you decide to buy these since there are some projects out there that might give you an idea or two about future projects. And no i don't own a SONOFF... i have not decided if this is the one for me or not... that power draw test kind of put me off... and that's without the wlan doing anything other then ideling... the usage will be higher if it's connected to a network. But just wanted to let people know there is somewhat of a homebrew culture going on around these thanks to the ESP inside of it.

[@SjoerdBeukers]

15:50 you should not do that John... sometimes, with a switching power supply, the input capacitor stays loaded... (600 Vpp)

[@barryfalconer3061]

Hi John..will this switch work with transformers?

[@capri2wd]

the app running through a Chinese server worries me more than the hardware (bot nets, network monitors, or worse). I was given one of these model devices and am yet to use it as i like proper switches. nice to know the hardware is actually relatively safe, may have to give it a test at some point. nice vid, Thanks.

[@capri2wd]

Coolkeys2009 don't use cloud or iot, just a smart phone. Tbh I don't trust much if I didn't make it lol. Big brother unfortunately is real and watching. Also why I bought pannasonic TV... No mic! And I have been hacked via a Chinese smartphone(literally just after starting game to use it) , so not sure they are totally innocent. Try not to be all doom and gloom the good in this world will win out, one day I hope, for all our sakes.

[@davidprice2861]

Why not a copper conductor, like a current shunt in a meter rather than ugly blobbed on solder ??? it displeases my senses..

[@sparkn8614]

On the dimensions, don't you mean 9cm, not 14cm length?

[@Mandrag0ras]

13:00 How does it measure 0.67 Watts when it measures less than a single mA of current? 0.67 Watts of real power at 0.457 PF means 1.466 W of apparent power, which in turn means ~ 6 mA of current. Something is wrong with that meter. If I'm missing something, I'd like to know.

[@lfcbpro]

A lot of people use these on light switches, there is no facility in this for an earth, is that dangerous? Have you any recommendations that could make this item safer, if you were to use it? I am a complete novice, but would electrical tape help at all to separate the live/neutral? Thanks for the vid John, some of it made sense to me, :)

[@Mentorcase]

Why would you NOT load test it at least to it's rating and check the wireless operation?

[@twn5858]

Are your residential outlets 240 volts in the UK?

[@jwflame]

Yes.

[@1bigsyd]

Has anybody got any links to put new firmware on these,I have 6-7 of these controlling various lamps and would like to mess with a spare one...btw had over a year with no problem

[@GlennPierce]

github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota

[@Mr31Vince]

I use ESPeasy (Google it) and its easy to flash the software on to it, search KZbin for flashing Sonoff. Then you can control the Sonoff with a simple 192.168.1.xx/command=gpio,12,1 or 0 entry into any device on your home LAN

[@orbitaaltube]

I have been trying to think of who John's voice reminds me of for years and i have finally remembered - its Mr Sprott from the cartoon Bertha! kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJ7IiK2mpKhkkKcm16s

[@joerharris]

Oh Son Off "Evil Codes"

[@christianullrich2923]

There is no CE sign anywhere in sight, is there? Nice of them to put on the pretty RoHS mark, though.

[@DavidWood2]

There are newer versions that are CE marked with a Certificate of Compliance at www.itead.cc/wiki/images/f/f7/CE_Certificate_for_Sonoff_Series.pdf In particular, the TH10 and TH16 seem worth a look - CE marked, terminals for earth (so you don't need a separate connector block) and an expansion port to connect external sensors (or switches if you use a replacement firmware such as Tasmota). More details at www.itead.cc/wiki/Sonoff_TH_10/16

[@gonza8332]

I need one for an 80 amp. Air Conditioner...can u help me?

[@jwflame]

For that size of load you will need a separate contactor.

[@johnarmstrong3782]

It's most often the case that the initial cost and running costs of all these 'power saving' gadgets out ways the savings or makes the payback time ludicrously long. Electricity is really quite cheap.

[@rudyvk]

Not to bad with these. This unit sets you back $ 4.85. You need to let them ship it to you, that will cost you some money, but these units are dirt cheap. It's not really a power saving device (as in, not much better than a simple time switch), but more of a comfort device.

[@XnoobSteve]

11p per kWh yes please - who supplies your electricity John?

[@jwflame]

Scottish power, which up to April this year had a price of 10.393p per kWh. Their price and most other suppliers have increased since then.

[@MrMaxeemum]

John, I love your videos but I have a slight grumble. I work away a lot and use a laptop computer. The sound from the laptop is average. Now this is in no way having a go at you personally but you have a tendency to mumble then speak louder at the end of sentences, consequently I tend only to heard the word at the end of the sentence you are saying. I am 45 years old and my hearing is not the best but it is not the worst it could be better, And I realise this is something that is not easy to change. But could you try to speak at a more even loudness please. Please ignore this if I am the only mentioning this.

[@gentledracula9502]

Same here. John can you speak louder?

[@Anonymous-vh6kp]

One might suggest using a compressor with your audio recording equipment. That would lower the loud words to the same level as the beginning of the sentence. You can then boost the level after compression.

[@BenjaminEsposti]

I don't like the fact that they have an MOV on there without proper protection. It's a fire hazard.

[@danbemowski3014]

How to use the Sonoff controller with a Vera home controller using ESP Easy firmware. Check out my blog post: dan.bemowski.info/2017/07/04/using-a-sonoff-with-espeasy-and-vera/

[@GlennPierce]

The cases are the worst thing with these. I follow the advice at kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp7dZqZ5dtt3d7s and place them in an abs box with cable glands.

[@SwarthySkinnedOne]

Mr. Ward! I have an an annoying inch that needs a scratch. Are you an Electicaltronix engineer totally unquestionably expert in your field, as rated by your learned peers? Please say "yes! I aaaaamm DUCky!n"

[@ArlenMoulton2]

im gonna take a black permanent marker everywhere with me and if i see one of these i will change the n on the box to a d.

[@Clipbrd]

very stuffy........ very British

[@BillyLapTop]

Lousy narration, bad audio levels, too much whispering.