Sony TCWR875 Speed and Azimuth Calibration

[@rscotta831]

Thanks for working on my deck Dave! Can't wait to receive it back!

[@squiggle2054]

bro nice deck

[@SDsailor7]

Is it a good model? Is it worth buying? I am looking for a double cassette deck. Thanks

[@rscotta831]

@@SDsailor7 Very good model and very reliable.

[@ricfair9919]

I agree lets get you to 100k!!

[@djsherz]

That's a better head adjustment than I ever used to do haha. I used to just tweak it for maximum treble response with no bleedthrough from side B!

[@bixy9347]

You deserve 100K, love your channel, thanks.

[@jerryspann8713]

Just acquired a Pioneer ctw403r from our local thrift store. I adjusted the output levels because the VU meter showed one side was louder than the other. However the service manual said improper adjustments of the output levels can effect Dolby noise reduction. But it sounds good now. The only thing is, when I play a tape after recording the VU meter shows the level a tad bit higher.

[@JacGoudsmit]

No playback/recording level and VU meter adjustments?

[@peterc2373]

Indeed only have a job done... and normally first adjust the heads and than the speed

[@zx8401ztv]

Hmm sony, worth getting it calibrated :-D. Old tape decks get a bit unstable with the capston/bronze bearing wearing, i guess the pin rides around the inside diameter of the bearing :-( Capstan roller/belts/motor all add up too. But we still like em :-D

[@thomasraden]

The question is, what is a good azimuth reference? Or is the only option to get a professional reference azimuth tape? By adjusting the azimuth with a tape from another deck you render recordings done on the tape deck you adjust before adjusted less good in sound quality? I was thinking about if having a three head deck and recording a 12,5 kHz signal, then adjusting the head for the most optimal azimuth with a scope, would that be a realistic option? Head position versus the tape?

[@Android_Warrior]

I got the TC-WR820A and I love it!!!.

[@moshezaharia4666]

Hi Dave, usualy these decks with high speed dubbing will have a dedicated test point marked as hi or high speed, you short this test point to ground to force the deck to high speed in playback mode for the calibration. The same test point should work on both decks. Best Regards, Moshe.

[@ilovemysmartmeter]

I don't have a service manual for it and didn't feel like looking one up. High speed dubbing is something people never used anyway so I got it close enough.

[@moshezaharia4666]

@@ilovemysmartmeter I have in storage a Sherwood DD2230C, I did speed calibration on that deck with the method I mentioned. high speed dubbing worked better with type II tape but since it doubles the frequency ,most cheap decks couldn't handle the high frequencies and most type I tapes missed it. I think I saw a fine Bias adjustment on the front panel, am I correct? It's a cool deck anyway.

[@gevowavemagnet]

I have a Sony TC K-690 that's running a little slow. Service manual shows a pot on the back of motor. Of course, it's not there on my deck. What am I missing?

[@teacfan1080]

Interesting to see how you did the azimuth adjustment.

[@msasoundlab1604]

Great and very informative video. I’m planning to getting a scope for audio work. Mostly for troubleshooting/calibrate cassette deck. How should one to connect scope input to cassette deck output? BNC scope input to RCA deck output? Or using probe clip? Thanks in advance

[@andrew1479]

The mechanism in this is very similar to my AIWA AD-W929.

[@alexispieltin9379]

A pretty good job for a tape deck that's certainly not a ES series, nor an Onkyo multimedia THX multi purpose amp (box does not say if it makes coffee). These deck are useful "historical" stereo equipment, even if it looks pretty recent for a deck with all these computers, 3 motors decks and so on: these are apparently sufficiently well built to last. Your alignment procedure here is quite simple as these decks are interesting as they include an azimuth screw for both direction. 3 or 4 kHz are sufficient for those tests, as 12 or 15 kHz are normally used to check special features like bias and equalisation. Such procedure are far less necessary on a deck if noone have tampered these... You should have explained your use of your "homemade" demagnetizing tool and your XY scope mode alignment procedure, for those of us who don't do that everyday or haven't seen you do that on other videos. You can also have such display on a digital scope, but it's sometimes an option, and if present, generally well hidden in menus or options. One suggestion is the use of non magnetic tools for such job. You can find "Japanese" ceramic alignment screwdrivers, and they cost way less what they used to.

[@rscotta831]

I bought an ES series recently. It paled in comparison PRIOR to sending this to Dave to calibrate.

[@young_of_the_mill9560]

Do you need an AC millivolt meter for this ?

[@jeremytravis360]

Do you ever use screw lock paint to stop the adjustments going out of alignment ?

[@peterc2373]

i use old nail polish ... but indeed , he did not use it

[@worroSfOretsevraH]

I was about to ask where is your DSO in your last video, where you've measured something on your CRO with a very slow timebase.

[@VintageAudioTech]

Interesting to know the speed is good. Unit must have not been abused

[@12voltvids]

You mean used much. Not worn out yet.

[@UrielX1212]

My speed calibration is similar but azimuth I do by ear.

[@12voltvids]

To do the as with correctly you really do need a scope. If you're going to do it by ear put your amplifier in mono and tune for maximum signal. You will get it pretty close but get it Dead on you need to use a scope in XY mode.

[@pliedtka]

I have one with, production date 1995, Dolby S - the thing is a joke. Damn Sony, the belts disintegrated into black bloops goo. The playback deck sounds like portable boom box - blame it on the heads. Also side plays 3000Hz, but side B 3.025Hz or so, both decks after adjustment. Anyway, dual decks seem to be like this: the Technics and JVC were the same. Azimuth - every deck is slightly different, some more some less, but generally not much can be done unless it's really off.

[@ilovemysmartmeter]

All Dolby sucks IMHO

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

Technomon Dolby S is really good imo, but it sounds a bit like MP3.

[@kevinh96]

I have both a Yamaha KX-580 and a Sony TC-K611S and both sound superb with Dolby S recordings, in fact friends are very hard pushed to tell the difference between CD and tape on chrome and metal cassettes. The Yamaha was a midrange two head deck but in my opinion has a slight edge when it comes to sound quality over the Sony.

[@jumpingjackflash5]

I've got similar experience with these Sony decks - difference of 25 Hz between sides. I haven't found any solution to decrease it 😞 But I like their sound.

[@markpirateuk]

High speed dubbing was never a good thing, I doubt anyone would actually use it due to the loss in sound quality & increase in wow & flutter.

[@SDsailor7]

Is that a good cassette deck? Anyone know? Thank you

[@rscotta831]

Very good model and very reliable.

[@SDsailor7]

@@rscotta831 Thank you. I recently picked one up for cheap all it needed was new belts.

[@SDsailor7]

@@mikec9112 Thank you good to know. The pinch rollers look in good condition on mine.

[@IZ8YMH]

Speed adj at 3 KHz

[@ilovemysmartmeter]

Yes 3k can be used for speed and wf. I use 440 only because it allows a guitar tuner to be used and with instruments to measure you can get the speed just as accurate. The higher frequency is better for wf but I am not measuring that.

[@squiggle2054]

hey i have to ask, how do you know what to set the azimuth on the high speed dubbing to? new to the azimuth adjusting stuff if you can help me here, tia

[@12voltvids]

You don't adjust azimuth for high speed. It is set using alignment tape at normal speed and generally unless someone has messed with it doesn't need adjusting.

[@squiggle2054]

@@12voltvids oh thanks, so if a deck has been unmodified at all since it came from the factory you just typically leave this alone then?

[@12voltvids]

@@squiggle2054 yes head azimuth does not need adjusting unless head has been replaced. What i usually find is someone starts tweaking hoping to improve sound made on a deck that was out of alignment or had a worn head when tape was recorded. Now they have messes up their head and all the recordings made on it will be off. I am sitting on a reel to reel now that the owner changed the heads for no reason and they want me to set it up. I am avoiding it as I know if i touch it, i am married to it and currently then head is so far out of alignment that the tape is not even making contact with the record head.

[@squiggle2054]

@@12voltvids wow you really know your stuff, im 16 currently and have only been getting into this vintage stuff recently and mostly ive been collecting walkmans but i heard people talk about adjusting azimuth and such and was wondering what that was about, was wondering if i needed to do that on my older players like my tps-l2 but after now understanding what this is about i suppose i dont, thanks a bunch so now i know more of what im doing, also subbed youre a top notch dude

[@kev840]

What is your setup for adjusting azimuth?

[@pliedtka]

Usually it's 10-12kHz mono calibration tape and scope to measure phase difference between channels. Some top of the line deck manuals mention even 15kHz tape, but 12kHz is very sufficient. A.N.T (Alex) from Tapeheads.net forum makes very good calibration cassettes (not cheap) if you are interested using recalibrated Revox deck for the 1982 IEC standard (I think he makes a universal one as well). www.ant-audio.co.uk/index.php?cat=post&qry=alignment_tapes

[@12voltvids]

The one I have is a mono tape 4 kHz. I think I said 3, but it is a 4. When I was at the shop I had a 4 and 7. The problem is the higher ones you can be cross phased easier with the heads out of skew reading the previous cycle on the tape as the waves are closer together. The higher frequency tapes are more for Dolby calibration. In theory you can do azimuth adjustment using a 400 hz tape and get just as good results. You are just looking for phase error on the scope on x-y mode. 3-4 kHz is good. After all we are talking a basic cassette deck here. The key is it be made on a mono deck. They are expensive to buy.

[@mrnmrn1]

@@12voltvids Is this method bulletproof? I mean, there can be differences between the phase response of the playback amplifiers as well. I used to make the adjustment for maximum output at 12kHz with minimum distortion on the scope. But I'll try this method. I've heard of it before, but never seen it in practice. I guess I'll have to retrofit a mono head into one of my decks to make the reference tape... :). Probably my Technics M205 will be the 'victim'.

[@12voltvids]

@@mrnmrn1 Remember these are cassette decks. They were far from perfect. Azimuth is something that should never have to be adjusted unless someone has been monkeying with it. They set and seal them at the factory. Only needs to be done after head replacement and that is a rare repair because by the time the head is worn the rest of the unit is also worn out.

[@mrnmrn1]

@@12voltvids In low-end decks and portable stuff it's not uncommon that the factory setting is slightly off. Also these head-flipping auto-reverse nightmares tend to knock themselves out of alignment during operation. Also, I've replaced a lot of heads. Including in one of my Technics M205 decks. The head was so worn out that it could not even record, and it sounded like an AM radio during playback. Yet the mechanism was still completely fine, it even had the factory belts on it! To be fair, the majority of heads I replaced was either in low-end stereo portable stuff, or even in mono radio cassette recorders or 'shoebox' recorders. So those were quite soft heads which does not need much use to wear out, thus the mechanism can use up 2-3 heads without other problems. Even in the M205, I think they used regular soft permalloy head. It was a relatively cheap deck. I've put in a hard permalloy or sendust head in it I salvaged from an other deck. It would need a thorough calibration after that if I would use it for recording. Which might happen in the future, but I haven't used it in the last 10 years since I replaced the head. Since then I've bought an other one for peanuts, which is working but ticking. I'm afraid it will be a damn split plastic gear...

[@Capturing-Memories]

It's not worth spending that much money on a dual deck, they are not of high quality by design, People are crazy though.

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

Probably sentimental value or something.

[@rscotta831]

It's an original deck I purchased in 1993 i.e. I am the original owner. I played it a ton in the 90s. I've taken really good care of it. I personally changed the belts and cleaned the heads prior to sending it to Dave. It plays MUCH better than the ES decks I tried recently. IMO, it's worth calibrating.

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

@@rscotta831 Which ES decks did you try? I have a few and they sound fantastic, especially the ones with amorphous heads.

[@rscotta831]

@@AttilaTheHun333333 TC-WR87ES. I meant the way it plays as compared to an ES. The Play, Rewind and Fast Forward functions are far superior on this TC-WR875. The sound was identical.

[@tacofortgens3471]

Doesnt normally need azimuth adjustments and recording level adjustments. Only if you change the heads, factory sealed with paint