Soundproofing A Room (It's Easier Than You Think)

Hello DIY Crew, today we're installing Sonopan to create a soundproof home theater room. This technique can also be used to create a soundproof bedroom or home office. Cheers! Want to take it a step further? Soundproof your ceiling to reduce sound transfer from upstairs, Watch 👉🏼 • Soundproof Your Baseme...
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[@AvalonEndures]

I have zero plans to soundproof a room but clicked out of curiosity. Because this guy was incredibly entertaining and a good teacher, I ended up watching the whole video and feel confident I could do this... not as well as him, but confident enough to actually try. Really good video!

[@luxemier]

(its easier than you think)... proceeds to use 10 different tools and materials for each gap of possible sound leakage.

[@jubb1984]

Yeah same haha, i will most likely never do this, super interesting and fun to watch =)

[@Oneness100]

Don't.. In order to build a "soundproof" room, you have to first conduct a noise study so you know what you're dealing with. If you want to build a "soundproof" room, I highly suggest you contact an acoustic engineer that will help you first conduct a noise study and THEN they can give you the build plans on what materials and wall construction you need. EVERYONE's situation is different. So, there's no one wall design that will work for everyone. I can point you in the direction of a company that WILL help you figure out what will work, but the design services does cost money, BUT, in the end, they will guarantee the design, as long as you give them the proper noise data they need to work with. But to just automatically go by someone's design without a noise study, then the likelihood that you are going to fail is high, and you'll waste money and time because the end result won't work. Word to the wise, talk to a professional that goes by noise study data in YOUR situation first..

[@franciscoschwarz6451]

Yeah. He's kind of the "Bob Ross" of dry walling 😄

[@Oneness100]

@@franciscoschwarz6451 I don't know if that's a good thing.

[@KlrStng]

You are coupling the drywall directly to the studs through the screws, eliminating pretty much anything you gain from trying to control the air by sealing up the room or any efforts to decouple with the greenboard. Then you are defeating the air control by having a bunch of 6" holes from the hvac that just lead to the other side of the drywall (your only real soundproofing here) and further defeating the soundproofing. Ultimately you are going to have an STC of MAYBE 45, which is barely better than what using 5/8" drywall and pink fluffy insulation would give you on a standard wall with no other measures. You have to decouple the surface of the inside wall from the framing or the sound will just travel to other rooms through the coupled surfaces. For the amount of effort and cost here, you could have just added a second layer of 5/8" drywall to all walls and ceilings and gotten ~50STC. Add in some properly installed resilient channel and some green glue between the layers of 5/8" drywall and get that number up around 60STC, or better, do isolation clips and hat channel and get it above 65STC. Or if you have the space, just do fully decoupled walls with an air gap and get over 70STC. Then use the air control measures (caulking, fireputty on boxes, etc) to not slip backward in your rating. Then either go with a high mass duct with a muffler to stop the sound from traveling to the rest of the house through the ducts, or better, use a mini-split system for hvac inside the soundproof shell. And finally, if you want to keep the higher STC from all the efforts, you need a door system that also has a high STC rating. Usually the easiest is double solid core doors with the inner frame decoupled from the outer frame, but there are some high density solutions that allow for a single door with decent STC rating. I'm sure it "sounds" quieter because if all you are doing is testing with a voice, all you are measuring is the high frequencies which are easy to defeat. The system you showed here will do nothing to stop even a modest subwoofer from being heard clearly in the next room, and very little for all the other frequencies below about 5khz. There are some great measurements of various soundproofing methods on soundproofingcompany.com's website. And there is a couple really good (and really long) threads on AVS forum with great info from professional theater builders if you are interested in learning about real sound proofing techniques. One resounding piece of information you learn if you do any research on this subject at all is that all it takes to defeat the whole system is making the mistake of using screws that are too long. Contractors don't feel that screwing drywall into a flimsy piece of steel is enough, so they get longer screws and drive it into the stud, defeating any kind of resilient channel or other decoupling methods.

[@HoundDogCatia]

What do you recommend for a sing door solution?

[@FiByfi]

@@HoundDogCatia Make your door the same way you made your wall. A sandwich of materials. Use a commercial closer and a pull handle instead of standard hardware.

[@No_Thyme]

This was very insightful! Thanks for taking the time to write that out.

[@elemeno0pee]

Highest quality KZbin comment of all time right here.

[@TimMilliken]

This comment is very good. Fully decoupling all walls and ceiling and floor is the first step. If that’s not possible then you’re never going to achieve anything close to Soundproof. I don’t hate the idea of this Sonopan type product though. I think green glue is overpriced nonsense so I’d be more likely to use this as a layer between 5/8 drywall.

[@getweirdwes]

I love how the audio quality of the video slowly gets better as you work 😂 great job!

[@MrVisde]

Haha, I noticed that too…less and less background noise

[@user-pm8je4fo7e]

@@MrVisdeit's not as much less outside noise, it's more like a smaller space with less reverb.

[@peterforint2663]

"Use every ounce of integrity you have in your body." Love it.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

only 2 things you can control in life. how you spend your money and how you spend your time. time without integrity is like having holes in your wallet as it pertains to money!

[@lobomalsano]

Thats why I only smoke tegridy weed. You may find other weed but they dont have tegridy

[@Senioritis012]

when he stood in the corner about to seal the green board, the acoustic change in his voice was astonishing. Such a cool project!

[@myopiczeal]

Not gonna sound like that once the drywall is installed, lol. SONOpan is a gimmick.

[@Dingle1234]

You make things so simple. It seems everything is just a somewhat complex progression of very simple steps. Nothing a flow chart can't handle. Thank you, thank you!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@RJBond121]

My first boss would say "our job is just a bunch of the little things linked together."

[@jackdeniston59]

So much of the world is simple. But not easy.

[@aaronr9977]

He makes things simply wrong. Read the other comments about all the mistakes he has made.

[@lights_utopia1130]

mhm learned that during my HVAC class stuff seems really complicated but in reality if you slow down and think its simply just a lot of steps.

[@Z-Ack]

I just used harbor freight moving blankets because they were 5$ each for a 10’x20’ blanket. Plus theyre mold and fire resistant. So i just used them behind the drywall and overtop of the drywall i used a berber carpet with a 1/4 inch matt that i used carpet glue to fasten it to the walls.. berber is also fire and mold resistant.. the room was for this couples kids after they get them a drumset and full stack amp with guitar. Thats 8x12” speakers driven with 1k watts.. and apparently they can play all night and parents can sleep without being bothered.. only bad part is the room gets extremely hot really fast.. the room had no central heating or air. Only used a window ac unit and space heater. Which the kids put a temperpedic foam mattress chunk to cover the window when they play so it holds the heat in.. holds the smell of those boys also.. so does their rooms though so isnt the room.. but gets ripe in there ill say myself. But they were all extremely happy with it and didnt have to charge them for the 5grand worth of material i saved using what i did.. the electrical boxes i used the sonoboard however just because of the electrical and kept it all up to code. Inspector himself said hes never seen anybody use moving blankets but when i showed him the materials used he agreed they use the same fire resistant chemical to treat the blankets as they use on cellulose insulation which technically makes it approved for use behind drywall in finished areas in residential applications.. go figure right..?

[@MuttMuttOutdoors]

It works. I am going to be putting in a master suite in what is currently a 25X50 room in my upstairs area. Going to use 2" foam in quite a few area's with sheetrock over that to help stiffen the sheetrock as well as a bit of sound deadening but may slip a moving blanket between the foam and the studs. I would love to be a fly on the wall in 50 years when some kid gets pissed off and punches the sheetrock only to break their hand though. It doesn't sound like a ton but the foam is stiff enough that with the sheetrock bonded on it's going to be some tough stuff, lol. For the kids in the place suggest making an air baffle, basically build a maze out of wood and insert some thick carpet on the inside to deaden the noise. This way they can have a fan or two in the windows and have some airflow but not have an issue with a ton of noise coming out. Those convoluted foam sheets would work really well as well to deaden the noise. I actually came up with this for a 1U server to mount in a room but not be so loud you can't think. Yes it's a problem, some 1U servers can put out up to 95DB and in a room with tile floors it will drive you batty unless you are nearly deaf or beyond. For a window you may want to attach on a couple toilet flanges to a hole drilled and then use some flexible HVAC ducting for the air so you can draw in from the ceiling. I am doing something similar with a cheap solar collector I made to help heat my front room and save some cash.

[@smoketheevilpipe]

What did I just read.

[@jebloonfiddlesticks1395]

@@smoketheevilpipe grammar nightmare

[@xanhteps648]

Functions as a rehearsal space. Most the time a.c. would be fine as long as you dont Mic it.

[@xanhteps648]

Great story and advice. I bet if you made it underground you could save a ton of money on soundproofing. It would help to keep it cooler. But the issue of having a studio space that wont get too warm especially if it

[@Rebasepoiss]

Just a slight correction: adding insulation doesn't add much mass to the ceiling (or wall). The reason you add insulation is to stop sound reverberation inside the ceiling (or wall) cavity which essentially amplifies the sound. 5/8 inch drywall is for adding mass and what the green board does is isolate the drywall from the ceiling structure to prevent sound vibrations traveling from the drywall to the ceiling joists and the floor above.

[@rolfbjorn9937]

The Sonopan is also absorbing a lot of the sound waves, and it adds a different density in the mix. You end up with a mix of metal, compressed fiber, fiberglass insulation, drywall and wood. The more the merrier, in here this means that none of these materials have exactly the same frequency to resonate at and amplify. I would have liked to see him acoustiseal/or greenglue the Sonopan to the studs/strapping for better decoupling. The structural "weakness" of having so many layers of strapped ceiling makes for a more wobbly structure and then less direct sound transfer paths.

[@troelsnielsen2848]

I just really dont trust the guy in this video. Somethings he says is true, but he says a lot of nonsense also, and it's bad to give false information to viewers

[@jpcc815]

Insulation adds shit off mass to your wall. Quadruple mass. That's why the insulation works. The more mass, the more dense the wall is. And inturn more mass to vibrate to make and carry the sound waves. Mass and density is what what you want for this application. I like sound proof baton. With mold and for board, and sound dampening foam with acoustical foam visible. Then you check it with a white noise meter Idk if I'll be able to post a video but you can see it on me page, a few reels ago

[@troelsnielsen2848]

@@jpcc815 actually i work as an engineer in acoustics so I know when people say stuff that's not correct

[@shovelheadseven]

@@troelsnielsen2848 He actually has a video from a couple years back where uses hat tracks with iso clips to decouple and mass loaded vinyl with 2 layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the sheets. This video is not as accurate.

[@CaliforniaCarpenter7]

13:05 - 13:30 might be the longest "That's what she said" line I've heard in my life. I almost started clapping, dude. Also, great job!

[@KMHrock89]

I could watch this stuff all day. I love your matter of fact but also light hearted presentation of incredible knowledge.

[@michaelmccleery3776]

Hey brother, love your videos and just wanted to share a tip I came up with when using those spray foam cans. Like you mentioned, not everyone has an expensive foam gun, but you can get a roll of plastic tubing in bulk for pretty cheap and cut a few lengths of it to fit on the tip that comes on foam cans. It's cheap, flexible, and keeps the can in an upright position. Not something a professional would use, but if you're the type that does your own work I think it's a handy thing. Additionally the tubing has many other uses, like bleeding brake lines by yourself. Hope this tip helps someone out there, and thanks for your dedication to spreading knowledge through your videos!

[@observe_and_purport]

Great tip!

[@Jason-ml3vs]

I’m practically homeless, yet here I am watching how to soundproof something I’ll never have. Lol

[@NUTT3RZ]

Use it to soundproof someone else’s house and make some money

[@shaunhall6834]

I'm going to show my neighbor who sings opera this. Now I know why some people hate opera. Thank you!

[@psalm23sheepdog]

As for wall soundproofing, IF you can afford to lose some space, building double walls with a space (like 1/2 inch) between so they do not touch, works great for preventing sound transmission. It’s the method used in apartments to separate units from each other. Edited - I was forced to add to the original comment, because a few people couldn’t comprehend the idea that this was only an additional suggestion of another method used for sound proofing and I used apartments as the example. Perhaps apartments wasn’t the best example, but condo’s use the same methods and you usually don’t hear the neighbors. It’s only a part of the equation for creating a sound proofed room. Logically speaking, if you hit the 2x framing member in the wall, the sound will vibrate through to the opposite room that shares that wall, no matter how much sound proofing insulation is in that wall. You can use sound deadening caulks between two sheets of drywall and this can help, but you still have the potential for sound to vibrate through. Everything working together - 1)a double wall. 2)sound proof insulation. 3)doubling up drywall. 4)caulking any and all wall penetration and joints. Finally, there is a metal channel drywaller’s use that help separate the drywall from the stud wall to aid in the prevention of sound transmission. This is usually purchased at a drywall supply company. I’m sure there are other methods and materials out there, but again, this was only meant as an additional method. I don’t think that’s too difficult to comprehend.

[@vanderumd11]

Apartment sound proofing isn't the best.

[@psalm23sheepdog]

@@vanderumd11 Who said it was? It was meant as another example of preventing sound transmission through building materials, which is probably the main culprit for sound moving through walls. If they’re not touching, then you eliminate a large source.

[@Xanthelei]

If you're going to cite apartments as an example of "great soundproofing," you need to expect people who have lived in apartments to laugh at you. Apartments soundproof about as well as one ply cardboard.

[@psalm23sheepdog]

@@Xanthelei Most likely in low end apartments. In high end and condos, you have a far superior soundproofing experience.

[@Xanthelei]

@Michael Patterson Guess which one the majority of people are going to experience. I'll give a hint: it's not the one that requires you make 100k a year. Thus citing "apartments" without specifying "high end" is defaulting to the baseline, which has terrible sound isolation between units.

[@jonedgar1981]

"Use every ounce of integrity in your body" - Great advice for many of life's tasks! Thanks for another great video!

[@jhondoe5147]

Agreed. 👍

[@TimMilliken]

Sir, I watched and loved some of your videos. It’s not easier or easy at all. I can be done diy or hopefully can be done with some guidance from videos like yours. Decoupling everything is the number 1 step. Your installation and air seals are really good. You can accomplish about half of soundproofing with your technique in this video.

[@thertc204]

I greatly appreciate the care and detail you put into this job.

[@DustinPlatt]

Sweet. Finally. Now, the kids will never hear my screams of disappointment.

[@bryce2113]

Sonopan with the 2x6 + the 2x4 framing is how I'm doing my basement this summer based on your old video. Luckily I'm in Wisconsin and the CA border is about 6-7 hours away. Planning to make a road trip to Home Depot in the near future haha.

[@sheldonpike8326]

I have used this channel for every DIY project , renovating my basement; and it is the best.

[@BinJuice1630]

I've just started my renovation at home and will be soundproofing my new study. Absolutely cannot wait.

[@LisabethSpencer-Hall-sg6eb]

Love it! I have to get started on mine. Looks like everything ya need in one table! And it moves around for ya. Amazing.

[@GeofDumas]

I appreciate next gen fiberglass but ive been storing mineral wool outside under tarps for 6 months and nothing has gone after it and it looks new. No slump and much easier to install alone. Easier to install in general but the idea that I dont have to worry about it compressing over time is great peace of mind. Makes me feel like im investing rather than just getting it done

[@phillamoore157]

I’ll be starting on my small studio build in my garage, and I’ve been prepping for a solid year. I think I’ve watched every single “soundproofing” video he’s made. And, it’s borderline nauseating that HD doesn’t carry Sonoran in the states. There’s nothing even REMOTELY comparable (that I know of) to use. So, I’m stuck with the drywall/MLV/ method. Given that it’s in the garage I don’t have to get crazy with multiple layers, but its still a lot of work. Thankfully, Jeff has me feeling extremely confident, moving forward. Frankly, it’s the framing that still has me a little confused. But, he’s got a video on that, as well. Thanks Jeff!!! P.S. Short of us hounding our local HD to carry Sonoran, you should hit them from your end, and show all the requests/complaints in America of guys that can’t get it. You’d think they’d sell more of it in the states than CA. But, I digress….

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers Phil, There are tons of great products yet to make it into the stores. Hopefully it will be available one of these days. Home depot is not taking my calls yet. LOL

[@phillamoore157]

Of course they're not taking your calls... They can't even keep their existing stock on the shelves, never mind something new that makes sense.....smh. Carry on with the "good fight", Jeff!

[@myopiczeal]

Don't worry, SONOpan doesn't actually do anything that justifies its price. Use drywall on resilient channels, have a better end product, and stop buying gimmicks sold by companies that don't understand acoustics.

[@silverbackag9790]

Lowes sells basically the same shit. Cellulose based sound board. The blonde/natural colored one has less treatment and what you want to look for (rather than the black version).

[@phillamoore157]

@@myopiczeal Sorry for the late reply...you're right, I don't think too many people will argue with that. The problem I have is that this is a one man job, and lifting/cutting plywood and drywall is next to impossible to do by yourself, or I'd got that route in a heartbeat. So, I'm going to have to find a way to get creative. Fortunately, I have a garage. So, as far as disturbing the neighbors (or anyone in the house), I don't have to get to crazy to make what will be a semi-enclosed drum room. But, yes, I hope someday to do it "right", and go that route. Thank you for the comment.

[@SuperMcgenius]

Thank you for making all these videos and I’ve learned some things over the years. I’ve also done studio installations and one of the biggest challenges is separating HVAC systems. You have not stated that this is a separate system, and if it is part of the whole house, all the sound will go through the vents. You are correct in stating with this type of soundproofing that one needs to do 99 to 100% for it to be effective, basically waterproof and air proof. Just as an aside, someone who is spending so much money to sound proof may also be interested in the acoustical performance of such a room, non-parallel walls make a huge difference in standing waves in the lower base regions and upper mid regions of Audio. selling a new construction tilted ceiling and flared walls will reduce the amount of Acoustical diffusers, needed and much room treatment which can run into the thousands and I really just a Band-Aid on a bad sounding room. Audio file and contractor :-)

[@PeterPug]

Was just about to comment before I saw this... If that supply duct is connected to a central HVAC system, then it will transmit the sound throughout the house. I did a somewhat poor job sound insulating my basement music room knowing that I had two ducts in there that I couldn't block off. When I'm upstairs, most of the high freq that you hear are coming through the ducts.

[@frenchyroastify]

I completely agree. Should put in a separate Split heat pump for heating and cooling. Res bar is generally used for strapping as well. I'd also omit pot lights and go for perimeter up lighting.

[@guspaz]

@@PeterPug You can get inline duct mufflers, which is basically a tube, roughly two or three feet long, which expands in diameter from the connection points on either end, with the inner surface in the expanded segment covered in acoustic foam. The idea is, as the sound bounces around down the duct, when it goes through the muffler section, the reflection is reduced. My understanding is that it helps primarily with higher frequency noise. They're often used to reduce the noise from fans, but should work for any noise going through the duct.

[@Brad-904]

Thank you for the detailed video Jeff and the demonstration. It's well appreciated.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Glad it was helpful!

[@damham5689]

Your soundproofing video reminded me of back in the 1980s a musician friends dad who was VP for a large corporation in Illinois told me. He said "They told me they'd play better if they had better instruments, so I bought them $5000 worth of equipment. But they only got louder so I had to spend $15,000 to build a soundproof room so I didnt have to listen to them" 👍

[@dang9668]

That is some extreme editing. Perfect transitions and sentences. Nice! Pretty wild to put your team through that 😂 cheers!

[@joseph7105]

It's a pretty common feature in most video editing software. It just automatically removes parts of the video that have no audio

[@thymeparzival]

Well done on both the construction work and the video. I used to work construction for 15 years before I switched careers to become a video producer, so I can tell a good tradesman and a good video producer when I see it.

[@percival23]

I used the Roxul insulation/sound proofing when I gutted my house. It's fireproof, waterproof, & mold proof. If you are going to all trouble and cost of renovating for whatever reason ...you will be stuck with the choices you made for the next 10, 20, 30 years. Pay the little extra for the better product when you can. You won't regret it.

[@myopiczeal]

I'm sure it's great. But it's unnecessary. Unless you're really hung up on mold, I guess. But acoustically, it's identical.

[@jude6005]

I’m a musician In a small town looking to buy a home soon and being around home renovation with my dad and the prospect of fixing it up already, I’m planning on putting a studio in at some point, thank you for this tutorial

[@scaryback]

Great video. Been in the business for 20 years. Alot of trades think they’re superior to the next trade… so they’ll do whatever they need/want to in order to facilitate their own work, not thinking about the next trade (or previous one) in the process. And when they encounter an issue, like the gov’t, they’ll blame their predecessor - the trade before them… just an observation lol

[@jakubmakalowski6428]

Well watching this helped me decide its worthless to fuss with soundboard with my current job. really hammered in that with how much would be unsealed. No use wasting my time and the client's money.

[@NancyBryantIdeas]

It may be too late for this, but have you ever thought of leaving a note inside the wall or ceiling explaining what this awesome product is? I was thinking about what the reaction of the young people who renovate this room in 50 or 60 years will be. Maybe the video will still be available, but leaving a note with all that information can answer those question for them. Just an idea..

[@peterforint2663]

Leave them a newspaper. They won't know what that is in 50 years!

[@MuttMuttOutdoors]

I am rebuilding a place we got for about 18K US and one of the things I plan to do is leave a few notes and USB drives around with video's of what I have done for a future owner or whatever. Going to make one as a time capsule of sorts and when I replace the sidewalks I am going to put it under the base layer. A piece of 3" pvc with a couple glue on end caps should work well, probably gonna toss in a couple bucks in change as mint rolls so it's all uncirculated. In 50 or 100 years someone will have a really nice surprise.

[@amentco8445]

@@MuttMuttOutdoors physical notes are still a better idea. Good luck if in 50 years usb protocol even still exists as it does, better luck if they'll have anything that interfaces with our current usb standards. Worst case is if the memory in the stick even lasts long enough. Flash memory is volatile and will fail in a shorter period than you may want.

[@guspaz]

@@amentco8445 Yeah, flash memory works by trapping electrons in a gate, and they gradually leak out over time. You'll see conflicting information online about how long they should be expected to last. Some sources say it should last "at least one but no more than five years", others say ten years, but the counter-example is Nintendo DS cartridges, which use nand flash, and none of them have started failing yet ~19 years later. However, you shouldn't count on flash for any sort of long-term storage unless you're buying stuff directly from the manufacturer (the *chip* manufacturer, not the USB/SD card manufacturer) who can provide a proper datasheet on data retention.

[@snarfarpher2416]

That slight air gap between the green board and drywall will actually noticeably improve low frequency sound reduction/sound proofing. Kudos my friend.👍

[@clever_handle]

Great video. I’m ok with the algorithm recommendation as I don’t have any plans to make sound proof room, but it sounds like a good idea. The only criticism I can offer is to always make sure to seal duct seams with mastic or foil tape - especially if you are focusing on ensuring efficiency of systems during any build.

[@annquach6613]

Sealing, rockwool, staggered studs, mass load vinyl

[@brettbarager9101]

When I have to use a can of spray foam and the location does not allow me to hold the can upright to maximize the use of the air inside, I simply attach a length of clear plastic tubing to the nozzle (2", 4", 6" . . . Whatever length I need).

[@realitycheck74]

I’m new to your channel, but the few videos I have watched have been very educational and helpful even after being experienced for 40 years myself. Great video! One question I have is in regards to vapor barrier on the exterior walls. I was taught at a young age to install my vapor barrier between the concrete wall and the newly constructed stud wall. We simply secured it to the bottom of the joists and then some spots of liquid nails on the concrete walls. Then down to the concrete floor and out past the new wall by about a foot. I was always under the impression that this protected studs, insulation, etc. I’m always willing to learn new techniques and tips. Please advise if I’m missing something. Again, great video! Thanks much!

[@tburrows357]

You reference the mineral wool. And for sound proof you are right don’t waste the money if sound proofing is the goal. Only benefit is fire safety. Also i worked at the factory in BC for Rock Wool. If you do decide to use it just go without the cheapest product. There was R14 and Safe n Sound. Same product just the safe and sound didn’t meet R value. Basically if the mix was off from the melter we would switch bags. And yet I have seen safe and sound go for more money sometimes. So ya if you do buy it go with R14 if it’s cheaper.

[@andrewcarr2431]

Hey Jeff. i'm a cheap bar steward when it comes to material costs (Pink fluffy vs brown wool) and when we did our units for rentals our drywall contractor said the same thing, plus we did 2 layers of 1/2" board. At the time I don't think that sonoboards were on the market (or at least at a reasonable price) and the alterative was that fancy metal strapping that is a nightmare to install. Overall, lot less noise between the units and no issues/complaints. Liking those Sonopan simply from a DIY perspective.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

and it is quite economical as well.

[@LuminairPrime]

I love all the discussions in the comments. NO real world install is perfect. My takeaway: dense drywall reflects sound (good for protecting other rooms), fluffy insulation absorbs sound (good for making the TV room sound good), and air gaps allow sound through. Movie theaters are just concrete walls with insulation covered in fabric.

[@mariad4183]

Loving this!

[@Gravedigger933]

1:20 I can remember when I was a kid and running around attics installing duct work. Good times. Never had an issue with the insulation, but a lot of people do. Glad their is something those with baby soft skin can handle.

[@ptheo12]

Knowing the end from the beginning is a good advice, strategy and insight!

[@michelsavoie6971]

You could use furring channel (Hat track) used to frame drywall ceilings instead of the 2x3 strapping over the green board. But only screw it on one side so it can take some of the vibrations.

[@smetljesm2276]

And that's ladies and gentlemen is how you properly build a a home dungeon! Nice work!😅

[@brentharris5344]

It seems to be an increase in people building sound proof generator sheds. I'd like to see your take on one, because I've seen some pretty good ones, but I'm sure yours would be a level up!

[@MuttMuttOutdoors]

Looks good. A little overkill for my tastes but at some point may end up picking up a place that is split into two apartments and will do something to help the noise not transfer from one side to the other. I do have to say your option for draining the hose bib is more of a pain than my solution. I installed a PEX distribution block and the more I use it the better I like it. I can shut off my hose bib, take a air compressor with a blow nozzle, pull the line out of the distribution block and blow all the water out of the line. Makes my life too easy as one thing that I installed as well is an outdoor shower. Yep it seems odd but if you are outside working you can do a quick rinse to cool off any time and don't have to pull out a hose and when you are a complete mess from crawling in the mud or under a house or whatever you can shower outside instead of dragging it all through the house. Plus in the summers here it's easily in the 100's and the feel of a nice shower with a little breeze is such a good feeling. Oh, one other thing that is helpful with a distribution block which I just dealt with not long ago is draining out my water heater. We all know that there is calcium build up in most water heaters so I removed the crappy plastic valve but to get the water out was a MAJOR pain. I had it gravity draining overnight and there was still 10 or 15 gallons of water inside it because of the sediment blocking the valve. I took an empty hot water port and applied some compressed air, naturally the cold water feed valve to the water heater was off along with all the faucets. The water drained out very well and when I put in the 3/4 full port valve I was able to get a couple pounds of sediment out by filling partway with some water and then boosting the pressure with compressed air like you would have on a well pump reservoir tank. Tip the tank and shake it around a bit and then open the valve and sediment be gone. Figuring that out made me realize that I will use a distribution on every house I do from now on because I can take and drain the water heater, shut the house water off, pressurize the water heater then use that pressure to effectively drain all the water lines just by opening the faucet valves till air comes out. Hard to beat having 40 gallons of air at 50 psi to clear the lines!!!

[@seen48]

When people rush basements I don’t understand. Take your time, like you said with the soundproofing, and make sure it’s all done correctly. Especially with moisture control and electrical! An extra two weeks (for arguments sake) in the grand scheme of things is nothing at all. Thanks for the video and great job! Side note: you were talking while cutting that green board over head. 😷

[@MBMCincy63]

I'm slightly confused 🤔. But I do recall that you posted a recent "build your own floating cabinets" in this finished theater room. Glad you are still showing the shorter(!!😐) videos. Shivering 🖤🔔,👍 each time you publish.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

The floating cabinets were in the main room. This is a room off of it. Cheers!

[@koryleach9660]

That HVAC ductwork is going to be a problem for the soundproofing. The ductwork is a HUGE air leak in and of itself unfortunately.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

You’ve got to spend a fortune for perfect. But efficient is practical. We’re doing a sound test at the end of the series

[@nunya___]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Flex Duct is much better both in amount of sound traveling down it and transmission through it's structure.

[@FrozenThai]

An inline sound trap would do wonders.

[@koryleach9660]

@@HomeRenoVisionDIY absolutely! Please get multiple readings. One from the room directly above and others along the trunk line from the ductwork. I did sound isolation in my theater room and all that sneaks out is a little bass to the room above. I put in Atmos speakers and two 12” subs and numerous lights in my build. For the lights I used the pancake LEDs that mount to round junction boxes. I used putty pads and acoustic caulk to cover and seal the gaskets.

[@neophytealpha]

So there is always a mini split. Much less an issue than traditional ducted system, for an area needing sound proofing

[@serjg7340]

Hello! A very useful video, especially the fact that you focus on the maximum insulation of all gaps and technical holes. You're showing a movie theater room, which usually has built-in speakers in the wall and ceiling. Quality speakers are very deep. I wanted to know how you do in this case. Thank you!

[@smalltomification]

The insulation falling is why I only use rock wool and not fiberglass. I insulated houses for years and it happened a lot. It's worth the extra cost.

[@PhillipMiass]

Just dropped by to say your air guitar technique in the thumbnail is A-tier. Must've noodled a 6 string once or twice before.

[@Paul30-463]

First and foremost, thank you for everything you do. You've saved me a ton of money and instilled a ton of knowledge. My question, however, is when creating a dividing wall and adding sonopan would you add it to both sides or is one enough. The wall is dividing me from a second unit im creating.

[@robertc.6441]

Very thorough, and professional work that is quick and efficient! You can come work on my house anytime if I could afford it!

[@jordan2104]

I've built a ton of theater rooms and other soundproofed areas using pretty much every technique out there. As far as the design, materials used and installation procedures, I never had to decide on anything, I just had to build it according to the specs in the blueprints. After all these years, I would say the ones that worked the best were the ones where we used the black rubber sheet, hat channel, rubber isolation clips and 1 1/2" Quiet Board (with all the putty and Quiet Seal involved). And that was just a regular homeowner in my town. Everything else seemed like a huge waste of money, including some of the stuff that we built for people who spent many millions on their homes. We soundproofed an entire condo top to bottom, a pinsetter room for someone who wanted a bowling alley in their basement and even soundproofed+bulletproofed walls for another wealthy client. I've done some crazy stuff, but not all of it was worth it in my opinion.

[@qwertyuiop-ke7fs]

Oh man I'm gonna be soundproofing a cabin and this was exactly what I was looking for, thanks

[@dannyroldan_av]

YOUR KING! Love you man, Wish we had Sono Panel here in the US.

[@vestofholding]

15:20: You were right earlier, I was screaming at you to put on a mask at this point, lol.

[@tebasak1]

I think the fact that the sound acoustics abruptly changed when he went into the room with the insulated ceiling really tells you something.

[@JSLEnterprises]

when you put the drywall up, you still get in-room reverberation, which needs to be mitigated by putting stuff into the area, especially rugs. edit: if you're looking for sound reflection deadening panels for your theater room, making them out of sonopan and covering them with material is a diy option that is much mich much cheaper than buying 'professional' ones and are just as effective, and depending on the care you take when making them, can look just as professional.

[@NobleNobbler]

Interesting with that type of backer. Typically, we use channels and flexible caulking for sound proofing to eliminate resonance.

[@salman4uall04]

@HomeRenovVisionDIY thanks for another great video. Quick question: Can we do fire-rated ceiling panels on top of Sonopan instead of drywall? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[@FrankPapadakis]

took out a drop ceiling 5 years ago, used rez channel and rockwool sound insulation, wish I would of known about this at the time.

[@lucasloud]

Hey Jeff! I have a question: 4x8 sheet of Sonopan is 30 bucks. One sheet of 5/8" drywall is 30 bucks. Drywall has more mass... Why not just do two layers of 5/8" drywall?

[@jpcc815]

Bingo

[@jpcc815]

You'd need foam pre drywall if your trying to record. To much reverberation

[@myopiczeal]

@@jpcc815 The room has drywall on the inside whether you use SONOpan, or whether you're smart and avoid the hype. You'll need some kind of acoustic treatment on the walls regardless.

[@stevereaver]

In Australia Bardford make an insulation product called SoundScreen it's an R2.5 and it is specially made to block sound, worked a treat in my studio.

[@nickcole4517]

3,5,7 my friend. Workst every time

[@maryd253]

I find these videos fascinating. I’m not in the market but I’ve learned a lot, should the need arise. Thank you

[@viewthoughmyeyes]

Agreed doing 95% of anything is equivalent to doing 50% of the job. Handyman these days are creating a ton of business for me. I can't keep up having to either finish their work, or redo their work correctly on missed steps. Another great video, keep it up.

[@Californians_go_home]

The handyman before me cut the trusses in the kitchen I’m redoing, also tore out load bearing walls😂😂😂. Those handy people should be capped.

[@mistertwo6113]

This was really helpful Jeff, thank you. I'm having a Morton home built (post-frame construction). I'm tucking in a 14x24 media room on the main level. It will be on a concrete pad, 2 walls are post-frame exterior, one wall is against the garage, the last has a door and is against the house. Electric fireplace for heating. What would be your recommendations for a STC 50 rating walls, door, and ceiling?

[@ZomBeatBrainZ]

The dead air space also helps a lot at stopping sound transmission.

[@jmtm82]

Best tip from this channel… don’t bother leaning anything from here. Buy the property renovated by Jeff = WIN

[@hellhammer4041]

really enjoy watching you you taught me some stuff I fell two and a half stories cleaning gutters so now I am making ax handles jewelry things like that but I really appreciate you oh and I'm doing so suji ban and making desk I got these neighbors they complain every time I make a little step it's ridiculous so I seen this soundproofing I'm really thinking about soundproofing my apartment lol oh yeah I just got me a circular saw I've done landscaping for 19 years so I usually don't circular saw anything might need to check out one of your video lol thanks

[@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb]

@10:00 he's lifting his 'slumping insulation'. But the insulation isn't tight against the studs and has half-inch gaps on an exterior wall (nice condensation trap😢) - that's why it slumped. Yet after patting himself on the back, he slaps on drywall and it's guaranteed to slump again. So much confident blowviation about doing quality work😅

[@luanbento3676]

Great presentation, great vídeo, great soun, great cut. Great time watching, thank you!

[@ericmeadows7439]

So how do you know that the insulation will not just slump again after the sonopan and drywall is up?

[@frankdrebin2343]

i think it's due to the fact that the slumping was a result of the electricians messing around with it - hence all the red tape in that area. So if no one touches it, it won't move.

[@ericmeadows7439]

@frankdrebin2343 makes sense. Thanks. I'll be starting to finish my basement and that specifically is one of my worries - moisture/mold. I love Jeff and these type of videos have helped out so much.

[@Ogilla]

It will do it again, because fiberglass insulation is cheap and shrinks/compress after some time. The plastic is the only thing that will prevent the massive air gap from causing moisture.

[@deboraheubank9430]

Thanks for the great info!!

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

You bet! Cheers

[@observe_and_purport]

Thanks for the video, great information as always! Unrelated, some dude's oversized basement is perfectly soundproofed, yet I can't find a house. Can't imagine how much more rich they are to have this all done custom.

[@Goni983]

Thanks Jeff! I always appreciate the stuff you put out, it has been a life saver plenty of times. I was wondering why not use blown in cellulose as your insulation instead of fiberglass? If you dense pack it seems to be a much better sound absorber than any other option on the market

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

not going for perfect here. You just can't make a basement perfect on a forced air heating and cooling system.

[@myopiczeal]

Insulation's job isn't mass. That's what the drywall is for, and that's why mineral wool is only a minor step above fiberglass. Blown-in cellulose is fine, as long as it isn't too rigid. You need the material to be flexible for it to turn sound into heat, which is what insulation is for. Which is why spray foam is terrible.

[@mygift28]

wow , thank you very much for this video. I am trying to sound proof a condo so i can play piano without worry about neighbor. Do you have and recommendation for a contractor in Seattle area? Or do you accept job in this area? thank you for your time

[@jaydmorales23]

Will the duct work have some sound proofing along the way? It is air movement, so the sound of the HVAC can travel straight into the sound proofed theater

[@lukebridge9899]

Awesome video! Does anyone know what the Australian equivalent to SONOpan would be?

[@foxvulpes8245]

Friend: hey, what are you watching? Me: how to sound proof a basement. Friend walking away slowly: ...

[@lurchHa3]

taking notes, getting ready for my theater

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

Cheers! the next 2 videos will help!

[@blitzar8443]

This was very useful when building my dungeon. Thank you good sir. 😊

[@mikestoolfun]

If I open vapour barrier, the GC usually has me leave it so they can ensure the insulation is back and vapour barrier is taped up properly.

[@HomeRenoVisionDIY]

that is the proper way. Those 2 systems are their responsibility after all.

[@BioMedEd]

This is an awesome video, and now I want to do this to one of my own rooms lol. I have a question though! Considering the repeated emphasis on getting it 99% sound proof and limiting the metal in the walls and ceiling, how do you plan to reduce sound travel through the ducting? Both for the metal (Sorbothane pads like stainless steel sinks?) and the incoming airflow (breathable acoustic fabric?) would need to be managed I'd imagine.

[@charleshultquist9233]

That's what I was thinking about too.

[@Mauro-K]

Would be interesting to see a process like this for a room with masonry walls and roof

[@Deested]

Nice job! What about doing the floor? I’m about to pull the carpet upstairs. What would be a good sound barrier for the floor? Thanks

[@Palpatine4Senate]

Thanks for the advice to "keep it nice and tight to the box." Good advice no matter the situation. 😏😏

[@Mao2187]

I love the high ceiling in the basement.

[@davidclemens6075]

Everything I have read about sound proofing a room says to use two sets of studs that are offset. Otherwise the sheet rock / dry wall will transmit the sound through the studs to the sheet rock / dry wall on the other side. Sound travels faster through solid objects than through air. I didnt watch the rest of the video, but sound dampening in HVAC ducts is important too. Nothing pisses me off more than conference rooms that have no sound treatment and small HVAC supply vents that whistle when the air kicks on. To dampen low frequency sounds you need solid mass. All the fiberglas will do little, especially if placed betweens studs installed incorrectly as mentioned above. Visit a modern high school performance auditorium. The entrances will be U shaped which prevents direct sound transfer. In addition the walls will have an attractive sound dampening material consisting of a heavy porus material, covered with fabric and then wooden slats. This helps the sound (pressure) waves cancel each other or be absorbed. It like a mini anechoic chamber (where there is zero sound reflection off the walls, floor or celing). It is easier to absorb high frequencies than

[@NickSoundAuthentic]

For enhanced sound isolation, liquid nail can be used any place a screw is. Place the liquid nail down first, use a screw to temporarily attach whatever you’re working on (drywall to studs, for example) and then remove the screws when the liquid nail has cured.

[@daviddavidsonn3578]

liquid glue will NOT last as long as screws, mark my words

[@couchpotatoe3204]

That's a bad idea. Really, really bad. You want the material mechanically fixed even though it decreases the soundproofing a wee bit.

[@jkalebkillian2264]

It's not a literal liquid nail lmao

[@rf0022]

Yes but..... If you doing a media room you are crazy if you don't design it for Dolby Atmos. That requires speaker on the ceiling to create an immersive experience. Most will want a speaker flush mounted, this may also be desired for the LCR and surround (in wall) speakers as well. You are right you need mass and zero are gaps.

[@jasonleussink9558]

Hi Jeff, Will you be going in detail how to finish around the doorway and soundproof it properly? I'm using sonopan for a bedroom adjacent to the furnace room, but using isolating clips, hat track, green glue and double drywall etc for my wife's music teaching and recording studio. Thanks.

[@HoundDogCatia]

This is a question I would like to see answered as well.

[@pedrova8058]

a heavy/massive door, or two "normal" ones, with a minimum distance between them (usually the width of the wall, with some absorbent material between them. This is usual in small/cheap studios) A "normal" door or window is the weakest point in a project like this, it can ruin all the insulation work you did in the room

[@vibratingstring]

Sound control: Low Frequency airborne sound High Frequency airborne sound (and in between) Structureborne sound Effective soundproofing deals with all of these, and the solutions are different rockwook(fierglass etc) does absorb high frequency sound. But not low frequencies. For that, you need other materials with a viscoelastic response. Structureborne noise is mitigated with mass and viscoelastiticy such as barium loaded polymer sheet bonded to structure. keeping the sound out if the structure in the first place is esirably--this is what that green stuff is doing in that room. The treatment of the sound in the air is dependent on the purpose of the space. In an engineroom we want to eliminate absorb sound so perforated plate which allows high fre sound to penetrate and die in the rockwool is deisrable. The same treatment is found in sound testing booths but this creates a dead sounding room--for a theater this is not desirable unless you have a full Dolby Surround system to fill in the rvervb

[@MikeLikey-ku6tk]

i brought some into US PNW. Love it. Have 50 extra that I need to use or get rid of

[@GinkoYoki234]

20:29 Must... resist... making... Dad joke... about... "Now that's using your head!" or "Working _smarter_ not harder". 🙂 Although I've done exactly the same thing!

[@ericbraun4652]

I would take the 85% = 50% comment even further. I'd say 99% = 50%. Sound is like water. It will find ANY little place that's open and it can seep through. So I was happy to see you using acoustic putty on the electrical boxes... absolutely necessary. Foam is not a good acoustic seal. Use acoustic caulk, like Green Glue. What is the STC performance of greenboard? I HIGHLY recommend either Green Glue for retrofit or QuietRock for new projects instead of greenboard. Both have a layer of "magic" stuff that converts motion (vibration) into heat. We added a granny unit to our house, carefully soundproofing the wood framed common wall and it's incredible. Our tenant had a raccoon come in looking for food and stamped and screamed at the top of her lungs to chase it out. We heard the thunder of her feet coming through the floor-joists (flanking sound) but heard nothing of her screaming. We never hear anything from that apartment and there's 40 feet of common wall.