SPARK PLUGS How to Read them (Part 3)

[@DobleWhiteAndStabley]

I absolutely am grateful that you made a graduated comparison of how the spark plugs are supposed to look. This vid really helped me out in the carburated moter department. New moter enthusiest here so I don't have the experience and knowledge y'all do and I'm grateful you all on you tube are willing to help us out with your knowledge and tips.

[@davebruton5731]

I bought a 70 Pontiac two years ago , lost my job it sat , never got to drive it . Last week , I drained and replaced the fuel , today I pulled the plugs and cleaned ' em with a wire brush . Cranked the motor , installed the plugs an Viola ! ? Started on the first turn ! Your video came up today and timing was perfect ! Your explanations brought it all back to me ! Thank you

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Dave Bruton………..You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...…….Good to hear, that, your car, was..."waiting-for-you"...lol.....…...Ah yes, kinda like, a dream-come-true, so to speak.........Here's some information, that, should help you out.........If the "coolant" (anti-freeze and distilled water mixture), hasn't been changed in some time, then, there can be, some unseen "corrosion" going on, inside of your radiator, and heater core too (oh, and, some heater cores, are a, pain-in-the-you-know-what, to remove and replace...!!!...lol)......... Is the Motor oil, nice-n-clean...??? (dirty motor oil, usually, starts plugging up the hydraulic valve lifters, over time, and, at first, it's usually, tick-tick-tick, that you'll hear, then sometimes, gets louder, and starts going, Clack-Clack-Clack...!!!...um, no thanks...lol)..........Automatic transmission...???...clean auto-transmission fluid, showing on the dipstick..???...........Rear axle (differential) gear oil, filled up to, where it should be...???...how dirty is it...???...and....the list, goes on and on...lol..........Enjoy your ride, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@DavidSmith-mk7qo]

read and pass a test. I am a transmission man of 35 years. I took the ASE a few times over the years and I am sure my last one expired 20 years ago. LOL!! Of all the tube vids I see I am impressed by those that are informative as yours was. You can learn a lot here. But there are a lot of posts that simply leave you hanging. Again great job.

[@richardmouton9883]

you are the man. so many companies have not done a video, or even racers, or even mechanics thank you for this.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...richard mouton.................Thanks for the nice comment, and, for watching as well......................Here, I had a bunch of, older, used Spark Plugs, that I kinda hung on-to, that were out of, mostly older Engines, that had Carburetors (not fuel injection) on them, while also, for the most part, also having, a, shall we say, Ignition System, with a Lower High Voltage Output, as compared to, some of the other, Factory installed, Higher Secondary Voltage (Output) Ignition Systems, that started, oh, some-where around 1975 there-abouts (using the good ole General Motors HEI/High Energy Ignition System as a reference point...in time, that is)......................You'll probably find, that, there probably won't be as many Deposits, showing-up, on the Spark Plugs, that were removed from, a much newer, Computer Controlled, Fuel Injected Engine, and also, while probably having a certain percentage of Ethanol (alcohol), added into the Gasoline, at the very same time................There are some Folks, Racers perhaps...???...that might be using a Magnifier/Flashlight lookin' thing, where-by, they can have a really good "Close-Up", of the Spark Plug, that they are Reading, so to speak....................Thanks again, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@conservative-proud]

The outer edge of the spark plug indicates low rpm mixture (pilot mixture screw and primary jet), and looking down the well will indicate midrange rpm (needle jet and jet needle), and the porcelain centre will indicate high rpm (main jet)... these days with unleaded fuel it’s much more difficult to ‘read’ plugs then in the old days with leaded fuels...

[@RickyRisnandar]

i really appreciate people who willing to share their knowledge to others, thank you sir, love your video n greeting from Indonesia!

[@joaovilaca4204]

Rockys Roadshow. Very good lesson, very good indeed. I've some knowledge about the "shape" of Spark Plugs, and what may cause it, but after I saw this video, I learned some more about the issue. Thank you very much.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...JOAO VILACA.............You're welcome, and, thanks for watching............This Spark Plug video of mine, is only very basic in nature, as compared to some others..............Some, shall we say, spark plug experts, go as far as, using, what appears to be, comparable to that, of what a Doctor uses, to look inside, of a patient's ear.............It kinda looks like a Flash-Light, that's bent at a 90 degree angle on one end, that also has a magnifying glass-like thing, and maybe a light as well, so as to, have a really good Close-up, at the spark plug itself (I think).............Then, some, go as far as, cutting the screw-threaded part of the spark plug off, to probably, have a much better look, at, what the color of the deposit is (if any), that might be on, that particular part, of that spark plug....and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@lisagooch3740]

Hey, there, Mr. Rocky! I just made a great discovery after experimenting with my vehicle's ignition switch! Since it appeared to me that my starting issues may be simply related to sensor, fuse, or timing, I conducted 2 different experiments. 1) I quickly turned the key only to the point where the dashboard lights up, then I turned they back off. I did this quickly, back-to-back 3 times. The 3rd time, I left it in the position where the dashboard lights came on. Then, I discovered that the mileage box revealed DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES, one at a time. Then, a horizontal line of dashes appeared. Then, it said DONE. This meant that my experiment caused my 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan to self check for trouble codes. My codes were P0700 & P1684. When I googled these codes, I realized that the diagnoses coincides with your guess about my starting issues. 2) When the engine didn't start on the first try, I turned the key as far as it would go and held it there. After a little less than a minute, it automatically started, smoothly, on its own. This time, the engine wasn't dying down, causing me to gun the accelerator to clear the path.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Lisa Gooch...…….Wowsers…!!!...you sure have a fast learning curve, when it comes to learning about automotives………..Be careful, as to how long, that you have the ignition key turned to the (engine) "cranking" position, as in, when the ignition key is turned, as far as it will go...……...The reason being, is that, that (electric) starter motor, gets quite "Hot", when it is cranking the engine over for a long time, and, if too long (of a time), then, the starter motor can actually "cook" itself, and look Ma, now I have to go and get a new one (or, a re-man/remanufactured unit)…………My rule of thumb (or call it what you will), is to, only "crank" the (stubborn/hard to start) engine over, for only, about, 30 seconds max (maximum), then, let it rest (cool-off), for about a minute or two, then, if need be, repeat the 30 seconds "on" time routine, then, let it rest between starting attempts (more rest time, between starting attempts, is even better, especially on a hot day)...……..Years ago, I cranked over an older Dodge (parent company, being Chrysler) V-8 engine, for too long of a time, and then, the starter motor got so hot, that, the bronze bushings (aka, bearings), inside of, that poor ole starter motor, actually, started "squeeling"...!!! (nope, wasn't, that there, well known piggy sound...lol)…good thing was, is that, the starter motor worked good again, "without" the squeeling, once it cooled down...…….Most of the fuel injected, computer controlled (gasoline) engines, will probably have a way, to deal with, a (gasoline) "flooded" engine, and here's how, that (gimmick...???...lol) works...…….The fancy name for it, happens to be..."Clear Flood Mode", and, it's simple to do...…….If Ya feel that, the engine is flooded with too much gasoline, then, all Ya have tah do, is to, push the gas pedal all the way down (to the floor-board), then, crank the engine over, then, "very...Very Important"...!!!...if the engine actually tries to start, then, get Ur foot, "Off of the Gas Pedal", or, you'll over-rev the engine (engine will scream...!!!), and then, it will get damaged, to..."Infinity and Beyond"...!!!...……...As far as I recall, is that, during this "Clear Flood Mode" procedure, is that, it basically "shuts off" the fuel injectors, so that, no "additional" gasoline, is gonna be added into, an engine, that already has too much gasoline inside of it, to begin with...…….Most fuel injected (gasoline) engines, will have, what is called, an "idle air control valve", and, it controls the amount of air, that the engine inhales, during idle speed, and, if this valve becomes faulty, or gets all covered in black dry carbon (powder), then, the engine might not idle so well, or maybe stall...…….This is why, I might have mentioned, a while ago, about, holding down the gas pedal, just a wee bit, to help the engine start, and to keep it running, at idle speed/low RPM's (that be, Revolutions Per Minute, of the engine's crankshaft)…………Fuel injectors, can also get plugged up as well (when gasoline evaporates, it's, not as clean as you think, cuz...it's nasty stuff...!!!...lol)………..Sometimes, only a few, of the fuel injectors, will get plugged-up, which will usually result in, having some of the engine's cylinders, running a bit "leaner" (air/fuel ratio/mixture-wise), than, some of the other cylinders, that were properly fueled (or fed, as in, feed, or feeding), and, might show up as, a shaking engine at idle speed, as an example...…….Quite interesting, that, your OBD-2 (On Board Diagnostics-version 2) equipped mini-van, has that, shall we say, "feature", that you discovered...congrats...…….If your mini-van, is starting and running, to your satisfaction, then, enjoy, otherwise, keep your shovel in close proximity, just in case, Ya might have to do some more..."digging"...to cure your ride...!!!...lol.....and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@9011combo]

The car runs great but needed to do the timming. I just pulled the plugs out , repkaced with new ones and then I went through your video two more times to see the your good plug and my old one. Thanks a gain !!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings 9011combo....Congratulations on getting Your Engine to Run "Great", my Friend!!!....I hope that you "Set" your Spark Plugs "Gaps", to the "Gap-Size" that your Vehicles Engine Manufacturer "Specifies???"....The Proper and "Specified" Spark Plug "Gap" Size, that your Vehicle Manufacturer Recommends, will give Your Engine "The Best Chance", at Running and Idling Very Good, well, at least as far as Spark Plug "Gaps" are concerned, that is....If You haven't seen My KZbin Video on, How To Set Spark Plug "Gaps" yet, You can find it on my KZbin Channel...RockysRoadshow...enjoy. Did you actually get that 1/16" "Gouge" Removed from that "One" Bad Cylinder? If, there is still a "Gouge" (aka, broken ring caused Groove) in that One Cylinder, then, keep a..."Close Watch on your Engines Motor Oil Level!!!" also... Check your Spark Plugs once in a while, Especially, if you still have that One "Gouged" Cylinder Wall in your Engine, as, that particular Spark Plug, may become "Oil-Fouled", and cause a "Miss-Fire" in that "Cylinder!" Oh yeah, You are Welcome, for any Help that I have rendered, and, Thanks kindly, for your Nice comment as well. Best of Luck, to You, and your Engine... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Thanks kindly, my Friend from Indonesia!...It's nice to know that I'm able to help out People from all around the World...Your Kind Comment, along with all of the other Great Comments, that I have received (and, still am receiving) on most of my Videos so far, are really letting me know that I'm doing an alright job...I sure didn't know very much about anything, when I was a Kid...But, as I got interested in how things work, I looked closer at, and learned a great deal about...Take care Ricky.

[@9011combo]

Hello rocky...I took my motor apart and completed the rebuild process. I found out that one of the exhaust valves burned and the ring in that cylinder has dug into the wall of the cylinder bout 1/16" deep. This is my first rebuild job that I learned from KZbin. I do have mechanical skill but never done something this size before with no help from no other.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings 9011combo....Thanks for your comment, and, Congratulations, for "D.I.Y.!!!" (Doing It Yourself)....In your comment, you had mentioned that you observed that One of the Exhaust Valves was "Burned", and that you also had One Cylinder that was "Gouged", about 1/16" (one sixteenth of an inch) deep!....Both of those Problems that you have there, can cause, Low Compression and Oil Burning (in that One Bad Cylinder), because of that "Gouge" in that Cylinder "Bore!"....That Bad cylinder needs to be restored to 100% (with No Gouges), in order to have Good (high or normal) Compression, and also, to keep the Motor Oil from getting "Past" the Piston Rings, then up, and into your engines Combustion Chamber....If that there Cylinder "Wall" (Bore) Is-Not Restored to 100%, the Engine will probably still Run, although, maybe a little Rough, with Less Power, and, also, Above Normal Motor Oil Consumption and Burning as well. If you have to have your Vehicle Emissions (smog) Tested, the Employees at the Smog-Testing-Establisment, might Not Test your Vehicle, due to any "Smoke", as in Oil Burning, that they "See" coming out of your "Tail-Pipe" (aka, exhaust system), as you are waiting in the "Line-Up", waiting to be Tested! If your Bad Cylinder Bore/Wall is still Not 100% Restored/Repaired, and, you Do-Not have to have Your Vehicle Smog Tested, then, you will probably be able to drive your Vehicle, with Less Power, and, make sure that you keep your Motor Oil "Topped-Up" to the Full Mark on your Engines Oil Level Checking "Dipstick", when the Engine/Vehicle is on Level Ground, and the Engine is "Cold", and, "Not-Running!", or, if the Oil Level gets Too "Low" (due to Oil Consumption/Burning), then there will probably be, even More Engine Damage Happening! Also, an Engine that "Burns-Oil", Is-Not Good for your "Oxygen Sensor/Sensors", and your Vehicles "Cat" (Catalytic Converter) as well. It's all about how much Money, that you want to Spend on Repairing your Engine. If indeed, that "One" Cylinder Bore is "Gouged", about that 1/16" that you had mentioned, then, I'm quite sure, that, that Cylinder Won't be able to be "Bored and Honed", to the Maximum Bore Size that Your Engines Manufacturer "Specifies"...(Please, Check the Specifications for your Engine). or... Perhaps that "One" Cylinder can be "Re-Sleeved", as in, Install a Metal "Sleeve" in that One Bad cylinder, in order to be able to have that bad Cylinder Bored and Honed to a Size (diameter) that is reasonably Close to the remaining Cylinder "Bore Sizes" in your Engine. If, your Engine needs to be "Over-Bored" and Honed to a Size that is Larger then, when the Engine was Brand New, then, your Engine would also need Larger Diameter Pistons and Rings that will Fit Properly in any of the Over-Sized Cylinder Bores in your Engine. Now, about that "One" Burned Valve. Looks like, that One Bad/Burned Exhaust Valve, needs to be Replaced alright. The Valve "Seat", in your engines Cylinder Head, that the Bad/Burned Exhaust Valve Seated on, will need to be Repaired/Reconditioned, if it is in questionable Shape, as in, Not Being in Very Good Condition, or, that Cylinder will more then likely be suffering from a case of..."Low Compression" (due to that nasty leaking exhaust valve "Seat"). Like I was sayin...It's all about, just how much Money, that You want to spend on your vehicles "Engine". I hope that your Engine gets "Healthy", once again. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@rolandbrooks386]

Found oil on a cross-threatened plug. Replaced with a new plug with the washer that came with it. Car starting up smooth now. Will re-thread eventually. The original plug did not get wet until about 3-400 miles. When the car started up missing, that's when I found the oil. A good video for all to know

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Steven Brooks...……..Thanks for watching...…….It's good to hear, that, you fixed the problem, even if it happens to be, somewhat temporary...…...The older, common type of spark plugs, usually don't cost very much, so, not a big deal at all...…….If the cylinder head's, screw-threads, are damaged really bad, then, it's usually, just a matter of, removing the damaged cylinder head, and, probably installing a "heli-coil" (aka, a screw-threaded insert), which will usually restore, those damaged screw-threads, back to being, in, like-new condition...…….The way that I see it, then, the "cleaner" the spark plug, the better, that way, it won't usually be, the spark plug, that causes an engine misfire, as long as, the spark plug isn't faulty, that is...…….Good luck, with the "permanent" repair, and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@jamestrigwell7460]

Really excellent and clear, unhurried explanation. Best I've seen here. Many thanks.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...James Trigwell………..You're welcome, and, thanks kindly, for your very nice comment...…...It's a good thing, that I'm able to slow down my speaking, because, my thinking process/imagination, operates very fast, but somehow, I'm still able to relax...go figure...lol...……..I have a lot of ideas, maybe, too many, that, probably won't see the light of day, so to speak...……As for spark plug reading, then, my way, is very general/old school, where-as, some of the 1/4 mile drag racers, use-tah (maybe, still do), remove the spark plugs, right after doing a run/race, and look down, into the depths, of the spark plug's firing end, with, what might resemble, a Doctor's, ear examining, magnifying flashlight, in order to, closely inspect, way down in there...…….There are probably some websites. that might show, what there were looking at/for...……...Thanks again, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@billbrobst2361]

Thank you for these videos! They say if a picture is worth a thousand words a video has got to be worth a million.

[@RockysRoadshow]

+Bill Brobst ....Greetings Bill Brobst....(as I'm pointing my finger at Bill...I say)..."What He Said"...lol (in regard to, what Bill had to say, about the Scorecard, havin'...Pictures, bein' worth "A Thousand Words"..and...Videos, bein' worth "A Million Words")..................Hmmmmm...just thinkin', that, If I were to "Babble-on", in a very Long KZbin Video, I might just make it to "One Million" Spoken Words, but, then again, those "Million Words" (Jibberish?..lol), that I (hypothetically) Spoke, probably wouldn't amount to very much at all (other than, accomplishing, that, One Million Words Spoken "Milestone", that I was tryin' to conquer, that is...lol)...................Thanks for watching my KZbin Videos, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

Thank you Rocky. I really enjoyed reading your comments.I found a video or 2 of yours to be of value, and I couldn't seem to have time to come back to listen, but reading your analysis of spark plugs? Total gold for me. :)

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...DE "AutoBravado" Nichols...........You're welcome, and thanks for watching...............My (so called) Method of Reading Spark Plugs, is, shall we say, Old School, as compared to, the Method, that some of the other Folks, that are out there, in Cyber-Space (and probably living on Planet Earth at the very same time...lol), might be using.....................The other Method, will probably involve, using, what appears to be, something, that could very well be found in a Doctor's office, and kinda looks like, a Doctor's, Ear Checking Magnifier/Flashlight, that, might be bent, at a 90 Degree angle, up towards, the business end of the device................Probably, when the, shall we say, more advanced, Spark Plug Readin' Folks, are using this Magnifier/Flashlight to Read a Spark Plug, they will probably be looking, down into the Depths, of the Electrode end of, of the Spark Plug, looking for some of the following.....................The Fuel Ring, and probably, any small Dots, stuck to the Porcelain lookin' stuff, that surrounds the Inner (center) Electrode, and might be, silver or black colored (small) Dots, that will usually be an indication, that some internal engine damage, is taking place...!!!...Ouch...!!!..........Also, where the Color Change takes place, on the Outer Electrode (that be, that J shaped thing, that's usually found, on the more common, type of spark plugs....................Maybe, do an internet search, for Reading Spark Plugs, and You'll probably find, some Mind Boggling information, by doing so...................Some Folks are sayin,' that, not many Deposits, will be found on the Spark Plugs, that were removed from an Engine, that was burning Gasoline, that had Ethanol (aka, alcohol), in its Blend...???...................Well now, this KZbin Video's Thumbnail Picture, that's showing that Tan Color on it, was a result, of having, 87 Octane Gasoline (R+M divided by 2, rating method), that supposedly had, oh, about 10% Ethanol (alcohol) in its Blend, in the vehicle's gas tank, and also, it was, just after, I re-jetted my Thermoquad Carburetor's primary (fuel) jets, Richer (air/fuel ratio/mixture wise), that I did, in order to get rid of, that very annoying Lean Surge (car was bucking back and forth at city speed), that I had at the time.....................Some of the Older Carbureted Engines, don't care so much, for the Ethanol laced Gasoline, that are at the gas pumps today, as, most of em, were Calibrated/Set-up for 100% "Real Gasoline"...lol (No Ethanol/alcohol, in that good ole stuff), and, may very well, have been Leaded (pronounced Led-ed) Gasoline as well (as in, the additive, being, Tetra Ethel Lead, added into the gasoline, which is rather Toxic)...................Oh, I guess, that, a Spark Plug, has the "Last Say", when it comes to, gettin' the "Fire Lit", inside of, an internal combustion, gasoline burnin' Engine alright, but there are so many "Other" parts and pieces, that make up the entire Vehicle's "Ignition System", be-in, everything from the Battery, the Charging system, Ignition Coil/s, all Wiring, etc. ..................So, my best advice, as it applies, to a Vehicle's Ignition System, is to be thinkin', about that good ole saying, and that saying, happens to be..."The Chain, is only as Strong, as its Weakest Link"...(and, I like to apply, that good ole Sayin', to, All of the Parts & Pieces, that make up the whole/complete ignition system), and, to me, that very same Sayin', goes a long way, in Life itself...well maybe, and..........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

RockysRoadshow My recent project is my 1989 Yamaha XT 600. The plug is perfectly stock. It is slightly rounded at the edges. It's all black, but very smooth. Here's an unusual one for you. The stock plug is special order. Copper, but nickel plated. The underside of the over reaching blade is black yes, but barely gray where the spark reaches from under it to the electrode. The pointy electrode is clean metal. It turns out I was running this stock plug very hot based on it's core having 500k-900k resistance in ohms when it should be more like 4 with the ohm meter set at 20k. I'm working on a video now so you can see it. I checked, it's super close up.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...DE "AutoBravado" Nichols................If You don't mind my asking...what is the..."Part Number and Brand"...of the Spark Plug, that is Specified by Yamaha, for Your "Exact" XT-600...???...cuz, by doing so, I'll probably be able to have a better chance, at being able to, help You out.....................There are a number of things, to take into consideration alright....................The Gasoline, might have "Changed" somewhat, from the Gasoline that Your XT-600, Engine's "Carburetor", was originally Calibrated/Set up with, back in 1989...???.................If Ethanol (aka, alcohol), is added into the Gasoline's Blend, for a Carburetor, that was originally (when new), was Calibrated/Set up, using "No Ethanol" Gasoline, then, there are times, where, the Carburetor has to be (fuel) Jetted a bit Richer, of an Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, in some cases, to avoid, having the Engine Run too Lean (air/fuel ratio/mixture-wise)...........Elevation/Altitude, in reference to Sea Level, has an affect on a Carburetor as well, as in, needs to be Richer at Sea Level, and, should be progressively Leaner, the Higher in Altitude, that the Engine is to be running at, just so You know.................Spark Plug Electrodes, that have their "Sharp Edges"..."Worn"...to a "Rounded-Over"...Edge (especially the Center Electrode), will usually, make it so, the Ignition Coil (if the XT has one, that is), will be Working Much Harder (Higher Voltage needed), as in, High Voltage "Sparks", find it much Easier, to Jump From, and to, Sharp Edges, as compared to Rounded Edges..................Sometimes, Spark Plug Manufacturers, will have the "Resistance" Value, of the Spark Plug, expressed as a Number or Letter (or maybe, a combination, there-of), in the spark plug's actual Part Number/Designation, so, maybe Check that out as well....................If the Choke on the Carburetor (if it has one, that is), is left, turned-on, for, too long, or is stuck somewhat, then, that can also cause, extra Carbon, to be getting stuck to, the electrode end of the spark plug, cuz of, the way too Rich Air/Fuel Mixture................If Your XT-600 was in Storage, for quite a long time, then, Old Gasoline, when it Evaporates, or just plain Disappears...lol...isn't as Clean, as You think it is...!!!...as, the, shall we say Residual, that be, the Ugly Stuff that gets left behind, when all of that Gasoline's Liquid portion is gone, and, if left alone long enough, the Carburetor, its Fuel Jets, (and other fuel related things as well), get kinda Plugged-Up, and at times..."Stuck"...!!!..............Gasoline, quite often, will be leaving behind, a Vanish-like Substance/Coating, if You will, and it tends to show up, inside, of the older/high mileage Carburetors, that I've worked on, in the past....................Make Sure, that, You "Set" (if need be), the spark plug's "Gap", that's Between, the spark plug's Inner and Outer Electrodes, to Yamaha's "Specification", for Your "Exact" Engine, cuz, it's very Important...!!!..................Also, the LARGER the Gap gets, Above Specification, makes the Ignition Coil Work Harder, as in, having to Output, Higher Secondary (high) Voltage, to make the Spark, Jump that much LARGER Gap...................For the, shall we say, Older, common looking spark plugs, that have that rather, large-looking center electrode (non-exotic type...lol), there's usually, a fairly good Ball-Park figure, that I recall, from many Moons ago, and, is, as follows................The Spark Plug "Gap", should only "Wear" (increase), about .001"/One Thousandths of an Inch, for every 1,000/One Thousand Miles, that the Vehicle Travelled...how about that.............So then, I'll be around here somewhere (I hope....lol), and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@thra5herxb12s]

I have created spark plugs of all these great colours at sometime in my life. Thanks for the memories.

[@RockysRoadshow]

+thra5herxb12s Greetings thra5herxb12s....Thanks for watching, and You're welcome, for a visual reminder, of the, shall we say..."Good ole Days"...back when..."Points and Condenser Distributors..."Ruled the Streets"...well, until, the..."Dual Point Distributors"...showed up, that is, and, most Spark Plug "Gaps", for most of those Points & Condenser Distributors, as I recall, were usually, only set to, oh, about .035"/thirty-five thousandths of an inch, and the Go Juice (aka, Guzz-oh-leen), had real Genuine (Tetra Ethyl) Lead in it...Wowsers...!!!...lol..............................These days..."Chrome Bumpers", aren't seen much...(excluding, some of the Pick-em-up-Trucks)...Until...a good ole..."Classic, or Old School Muscle Car"...passes by, and, for some of the Older Folks, that would probably be the equivalent, of a..."Big Flashy Fishing Lure"...being..."Dangled, right in front of a very Hungry Fish"...!!!...lol...............Well, in this Day and Age, having New Vehicles, equipped with Fuel Injection, and Space Age Computers, and other Futuristic Gadgetry, and the like, not to mention, that, so called..."Un-Leaded"...Gasoline, and even the..."Distributors"...as we know them, or use to know them, are disappearing from, some of the Engines all together, and, go by the name, of..."Distributor-less"...how about that................................Hmmmmmm...just thinkin'...........was it Carol Brunette (spelling?), that use to Sing...."Thanks for the Memories"...???................................So, there You have it, well, for now, that is, and.......Till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@thra5herxb12s]

And not forgetting the days of High octane 5 star leaded mega death.

[@RockysRoadshow]

+thra5herxb12s Greetings thra5herxb12s....Yes-Sir-ee-Bob........that "High Test", with all that "Lead" (led)....might have only been 10-Cents per Gallon...way-back-when...and...now-ah-dayz........a Quart or Liter of Guzz-oh-leen, might jump Up/Increase by, 10-Cents...over-night...!!!...Yikes...!!!...Then, in the 60's, or was it the 70's, we sorta, had to say..."Good-bye"...to those good ole..."Bias Ply"...Tires...(on Cars), and...Hello...to..."Radials" (Tires, that is), and, I recall seein', something along the lines, of a Car, having some words, like..."Radial Tuned Suspension", on, or near the Dash, possibly (1973-ish Firebird...maybe...???)...ah yes...the good ole days, and, mustn't forget, that good ole..."Shag Carpet"...and, the "Disco" (type of Dancing), that went along with it...!!!...lol..............................Well, till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Thanks for the nice comment Javier....While most people throw away all of their used parts (car or truck), I tend to keep most of the old/used parts just in case I want to back to them for further examination....I had no idea that this thing called KZbin would appear in the Future (well, back then anyways)....So, I guess that it was rather fortunate that I kept the old stuff that you see in some, if not most of my Videos, enabling me tell you about them....Take care, and have a nice day.

[@Bernhard_Schmidt]

Finally found a proper video that actually talks about what the title says

[@kris993tt]

Hey Rocky, thanks for taking the trouble to make this vid man :). I have some issues with my engine and I learnt a lot from it. It was great help in learning to how to actually read my plugs! If you could offer some advice on my issues listed below, I would be indebted! I have a 396ci Chevy Small block in my track car (an Ultima) weighing in at 1000kgs. It has a 750cfm Edelbrock carb, running 10.4:1 comp putting out around 500Hp. It's a dressed crate engine ie came complete with carbs and HEI dist. The issue I have is detonation (at load and WOT) when I set timing at 16 deg initial and 34 total. Backing it off to 31 deg total still sees some detonation. I then had some misfire. When I pulled the plugs, 3 out of 4 from the left bank had glazing on them. The right bank ones looked ok (from your vid; medium/dark tan on the ground strap and tip of center electrode). The porcelain did turn black towards it's base though (as seen with a bright LED point light). The plugs were Champion C59YC. Are the plugs too cold for my application? They are black towards the base of the center electrode and the base ring of the plug. And why am I seeing detonation? I have installed a set of NGK's with a 7 heat range on them (2 steps hotter?). Misfire has gone and she revs clean and idles well but all this when parked (I haven't taken her out to the track yet and she isn't road legal). Would the 7 heat range on the NGK be ok? If you could point me in the right direction :) ? Thanks in advance! Kris

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings kris993tt....I will open with, Thanks for your nice comment, and, for thanking me in advance, my Friend....Now then..."Doctor Rocky" in da House!...now, bring me the "Patient!" (aka, your Ailing 396 Chevy small block Engine)...lol....Oh my gosh, where to begin....I know, how about I start with the "Imbalance", as in One of your Engine Banks seems to be burning the Fuel quite well, whereas, the Other Bank is "Not" doing so good, well at least 3 of the 4 Spark Plugs on that particular Bank looked "Glazed" as you had indicated....To me, those 3 Glazed spark plugs are trying to let you know, that, they are not very happy!....My first though has me thinking that, it could perhaps be an "Imbalance" with your Edelbrock carburetor, or perhaps even a "Distribution" Imbalance with your "Intake Manifold', or even might be a "Vacuum Leak" at any of those 3 out of 4 Intake Ports on the Intake Manifold, to the matching Ports on the Cylinder Head, with that there "Gasket" being responsible for maintaining a good "Seal" between the 2....The very Fact, that only 3 out of the 8 Spark Plugs in your Engine are having the Problem that you had mentioned, also has me thinking that, there might also be an Ignition related issue as well perhaps? Just to let you know... My Method of Reading Spark Plugs is "Old School". Some of the Folks that are Really into it, are Cutting-Off the Metal Shell (threaded portion), and having a Close-Up Look at the Center Electrodes Porcelain, way down where you can't usually see it, and, those High Tech Guys/Gals, are using a Magnifying Glass, of one sort, or another! In this Day and Age, your Best, and Safest Bet, to ensure that you Don't Damage or Destroy your High Horsepower Engine, is, to Invest, and Install a "Wide-Band"...or better yet, "2" Wide Band Oxygen Sensors, one in each of your Dual (I hope) Exhaust Manifolds/Headers, that usually comes in a "Kit" with an "Air/Fuel" Ratio Gauge, that will give you a "Read-Out" in Real-Time, as you are Driving/Racing. and... a REV-Limiter for your Ignition System, so you Don't Blow-Up Your Engine!!! Oh yeah, about installing the/those Wide Band Oxygen Sensors... I would recommend Installing "2" Wide Band Oxygen Sensors (again I say, one on/in each exhaust manifold/header!...lol). You can wire it with a switch, so you can switch between both "Banks", while having only "1" Air/Fuel" Ratio Gauge. or... Go the A-List (Actors) way, or in other words, Spare No Expense!..lol. Seriously now, what I meant to say, was to, have "2" Air/Fuel Ratio "Gauges" on, in, or near your Dash (as in dashboard), that way, You can "Monitor" Both Exhaust "Banks" at the very Same Time!...thus Preventing some very Tearful, and Expensive Engine "Damage!" The, so called "Glazing" that I'm use to seeing, is when, you have a set of spark plugs in your Engine, that are all coated with Deposits, and, the Engine only sees City Speeds for the most part...Until, that Car, or Truck, gets taken on a lengthy Drive on the Highway/Interstate/Autobahn/etc., with the Resulting increase in spark plug Temperature, that, kinda melts, and Fuses, those there Deposits into a wanna be Kiln Fired Glaze, that you see on some Tacky "Glazed" Pottery Object!...lol...but, unlike a stationary Pottery Object, that there "Glazing" on the Spark Plugs becomes "Conductive", resulting in, one or more "Shorted-Out" (to Ground) Spark Plug/s!!! I never Rule Out any possible things, that may be causing a Problem, as, I keep finding "New" things from time to time, when I, like others Assumed that, I think it's this, or, I think it's that...We just have to Keep-On-Lookin until We actually Track Down and Find that Culprit/Gremlin! Now, about your "Detonation" Problem... What Fuel are you using? I hope that it's Very High "Octane", because of your "High" 10.4 to 1 Compression Ratio! I'm not even sure that 93 Octane (R+M divided by 2) Pump Gas would satisfy your Engines needs, when you are pushing it that hard. Or, are you using Race Gas/Aviation Gas Perhaps? Also, try to find out if your Fuel (gasoline?) has any "Ethanol" in its Mix, and perhaps, let me know. With having the 5 out of the 8 Spark Plugs Showing the Tan Color, as you had mentioned, that to me Indicates a "Not too Lean" Mixture (Air/Fuel Ratio). Also, by seeing that usually "Safe" Tan Color, it shouldn't hurt your Engine, as compared to a spark plug that enters that, White Colored Porcelain, that I will call, the..."Destruction Zone!" Generally speaking, when you are running a Race Car, more then likely, you will be running spark plugs with a Lower Heat Range, for the reason (my train of thought), that, you are Really "Working that Engine Hard", and, the spark plugs will be running hotter because of that... whereas.. If you tried to run a Heat Range of that "9" (Champion Heat Range) on the Street, in No-Time, those spark plugs would be covered in Carbon, especially, in slow and non-moving Traffic! A higher heat Range is needed on the Street, so, the spark plugs Reach their "Self-Cleaning" Temperature. If it was me, with having your situation, I would be sticking with the Installed/Recommended Spark Plugs that were in the Engine, when it was in the "Crate", and, hopefully, your Crate Engine was Built/Adjusted by a "Reputable" Dealer/Person, that knows what they are doing. Watch out now...With the Champion Spark Plugs, the Higher the Number = a Higher Heat Range... whereas... with the NGK's, the "LOWER" the Number = a HOTTER Heat Range!!! (at least from what I recall, that is). Even Your Champions Numbers are a bit different, to what I'm use to seeing. Probably/maybe, they might just be Racing Spark Plugs perhaps. I had a look-see, and with your Champions, they appeared to be a Number "9" Heat Range, which must be Racing Plugs, because, I usually run a Champion Heat Range of "12" on the Street. The black, probably "Carbon" that you see at the spark plug/s "Base", is probably the Result of having your Carburetor with the "Choke" On, that provides a Really "Rich" air/fuel Ratio/Mixture, on your Very Cold Engine, before it reaches Operating Temperature. Another thing...Has your Engines Piston Rings "Seated" in their Cylinder Bores yet? Keep an eye on your Oil Level, Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature. Hmmmm, gee, I wonder if Kris has an Adequately Sized "RADIATOR", with the Ability to "Shed" (Transfer that Very Hot Coolant, aka, antifreeze/water mixture) of all of that "Large Quantity" of "Heat", that his Mighty 396 Chevy V-8 Develops, that rivals that, of a Nuke-lee-ear Power Plant? Hey Kris, make sure that your "Radiator" has the "Capacity" and "Rating" that can Handle your 500 Horses!!! Also, the "Newer" the Radiator, the Better. Why you ask?... Because, I have already had at least "2" instances, where, those Radiators of mine, became very Sneaky, and did it Silently as well, in that, they started to Corrode/Plug-Up "Internally", causing "Over-Heating" of the Engines "Coolant" (again I say, antifreeze and water mixture!...lol). Find out what your Engine Manufacturer "Recommends" for a "Thermostat Temperature", as it Applies to the way in which your Ultima will be Driven/Raced, by You, the "Driver!" Engine Temperature is "Critical", and very, very Important, as it applies to Maximum Engine Performance, as well as, how long Your Engine is going to "Last" (seconds, minutes, laps, miles, kilometers, just pick one!...lol). Whenever you "Adjust" your "Total" Timing (with your HEI Distributor), you also "Change" the "Initial" Timing, and, how much Timing that there use to be, at any given RPM's Timing Advance, as compared with the Original/Previous Timing Setting. I would do the following... Clean the "Original" Spark Plugs, Check the Spark Plugs Gap Settings, then, Re-Install them in your Engine...or...Break out your Wallet, and purchase the Same Spark Plugs that were Installed in Your Engine while it was in its "Crate". Re-Set your HEI Distributor to where it was "Originally", as it came in the Crate. Find out just "What" Fuel (gasoline or whatever your Engines Manufacturer) Recommends for Your 500 HorsePower Engine, and, please, especially with 10.4 to 1 Compression, don't entertain the Thought of buying Cheap/Low Octane Fuel (gasoline?), unless, you can Add some Octane Booster "Concentrate", to Insure that you have the Required "Octane Level" to Scare Away all of that Detonation!!! Bottom line...Engines with High Compression Ratios "Need" High Octane Fuel, that's a given. You can only "Back Off" your Timing so much, then, Trouble will be Brewing. Check for any Vacuum Leaks, as in, everything like, Hoses and what they connect to, Gaskets, Carburetor mounting nuts or bolts, etc. Check all Electrical Wiring, and connections. Your Edelbrock carburetor might possibly have some Dirt/Debris/Crud inside it, perhaps from something like little pieces of Rubber Fuel Hose, when it may have been cut to length, and, those little rubber Bits were washed into your Carburetor, when the Fuel was pumped on through. So, there you have it (well, for now, anyways). I hope some of my Long-Winded-Ness, might help you find Your Engines, Culprit/Gremlins... Let me know, how it's going, if you care to, and, I'll help you out, as best I can. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings once again kris993tt....I have a quite a few Automotive "Videos" on my KZbin Channel, that will probably help you out with your Ultima....To find them, just go to KZbin's "Main" Page, and, type...RockysRoadshow...into the Search Bar/Box at the Top of KZbin's "Main" Page....Doing the Search, should bring up about "77" Videos that I currently have on my Channel, and, most are Automotive related....The "First" Video of mine, that you should watch is titled...Spark Plug Misfire...and, this particular Video of mine, will show, how You, Others, and Myself as well, can at least somewhat "See", if that "High Voltage Electricity" that the HEI Produces, makes its way, all the way to "Each", and every Spark Plug, to make sure, that the Spark Plugs are "Receiving" that "High Voltage Pulse" from the HEI Distributor, in order for all of your Engines Spark Plugs, to be able to "Create" a nice "Strong Spark" between its 2 "Electrodes!" I use a "Flashlight" to Demonstrate, How the "High Voltage Pulses" should be making an "Inductive" type of "Timing Light" Behave, when the Ignition System is working Properly, and, as it should. I had a very Bad Ignition "Misfire", on a Chevy V-6 Engine a while back, and, I barely made it home that day, because the Engine was running Horribly/very sick. It turned out to be 1 of the spark plug Wires/Leads, Electrically "Arced", where the Wire/Lead gets attached/crimped to its Metal Terminal, way down inside the spark plug "Boot!" It did show up, when I took some Ohm's (resistance) readings, and, also, I did notice some White-ish, Corrosion-like Deposits on that particular Wire/Lead as well. Now I'm thinking, just because something like, a Set of spark plug Wires/Leads that are "Factory Fresh", (in my opinion), doesn't mean that they are absolutely 100% "Fool-Proof", or, in other words, perhaps a "Manufacturing Defect", might just be causing a problem or two. If the "Crimping/Mechanical Attachment" is not 100% Positive, where the spark plug Wires/Leads "Conductive Core" gets Fastened to the Metal Terminal, down inside, either the spark plug "Boot", or the down inside the "Boot" at the HEI's Distributor Towers end of things, that alone will eventually cause some very Unwanted High Voltage Electrical "Arcing" to be happening, resulting in, a very Bad "Misfire" like I was telling you about, a few paragraphs earlier (above). I have learned over the years, to, Never take things for granted, as, like always, "Things Happen!" Good Luck with your Ultima... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@paulgregroy1986]

Hi, thanks very much I found your videos very interesting and very helpful I was glued to my smartphone, I'm the sort of a guy that really needs to listen to you a lot thank you

[@RockysRoadshow]

+Paul Gregroy Greetings Paul Gregroy....Thanks for Your Great comment, and, for watching as well..............................I guess, that I'll just start out with..."If a Person is Interested in a certain Subject, that Person will Learn"...and, as I see it, it's pretty much a given alright..........................My method of Reading Spark Plugs, is a some-what Old-School way of doing things, as compared to some Folks, that, might be using, that fancy-schmancy, wanna-be, and kinda looks-like, a Doctor's Ear-Checking Flash-light, to really have a close-up look, at a spark plug's Deposits/Condition, but, call me different, just never, ever, call me..."Late-For-Dinner"...!!!...lol.........................When a Spark Plug (or more than one), has a reasonable amount of Mileage/Kilometer-age/Engine running time, on them, and, are removed from an Engine, to have a look-see at them, as to, just, what-ever the Wear Rate of the Electrodes, and the amount of Deposits, or lack there-of, on them, happens to be, I would say, that, that's about, be-in, in the same Ball-Park, as a (certified) Doctor, armed with a Tongue Depressor (kinda looks like a pop-sic-le stick on steroids...lol), and this (imaginary) Doctor, asks the Patient, to, open-wide, and say Awwwww, so's He, or She, can have a look-see, at, presumably, the Patient's Tonsils, perhaps...???...lol............................Well now, on a more serious note, most of these Spark Plugs, that You saw in this particular KZbin Video of mine, were, for the most part, out of Engines, that were Fed, the Air/Fuel (gasoline) Mixture, by a Carburetor, and not, Fuel Injection, that used, one or more Fuel Injectors, which started, oh, around the mid 1980's, in North America, as I recall...........................The newer, Fuel Injected Engine's Spark Plugs, will probably, not have, as many Deposits on them, and, quite a few of them, will probably be showing, an almost white-ish color, on the spark plug's Porcelain-looking material, that usually surrounds the center electrode, just so You know.......................Before I depart...Please, always, try to Remember, to..."Not-Be-Looking-at-Your-Smart/Cell-or-what-ever-Phone", when-ever, You are...Driving a Vehicle...or...just being a..."Pedestrian"...cuz, the last thing, that I want to hear about, is..."He, (meaning You), was watching a..."RockysRoadshow"...KZbin Video..."When-it-Happened"...!!!...and...I sure hope not.........................The reason, that I mentioned, what, I just did, is, cuz, I recall seeing a Pedestrian, while, as, You were sayin', being..."Glued" to Her Smart-Phone (well, maybe I should clarify, just a wee bit, perhaps, as in, Her Hand, was "Glued" to the Smart Phone, that, in-itself wasn't the real problem, but rather, Her..."Eyes"...were Fixated/Staring-at, the Smart Phone's..."Screen/Display"...when..."it"...Happened...say what...???...Yes-Sir-ee-Bob..."She"...Walked-Right-Into-a..."TELEPHONE POLE"...!!!...Ouch...!!!..........That particular incident, is only, One of the reasons, that I tend, to end, a Post/Reply, such as this one, with................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@TheFirstgoldking]

That was a lil long winded Rocky but a lot of info..back in the day. When my brother and I went on jetting cruises his 68nova had a 375hp 396 with 4.56 gears..my 67 firebird had a BBC 427+125 12.5compression 8200rpm with 5.38s and 30" tires..we pretty much had all 4 bbls open a bit.;-)..the attention to detail pretty much made us undefeated in our hobby...few yrs ago I bought a 68 olds CS 350 that had been left at a shop for 17+yrs flawless body+ bad powerqlide trans..$400 all the plugs were beautiful lite brown..;-) must have spent its last days drinkin leaded go juice...thks for info..I still have my 67 firebird. +496 bbc.+4.88s

[@RockysRoadshow]

VN Dustoff Greetings VN Dustoff....Gee, my Lungs must be in Really Good Shape, see-in, as how, My "Wind", no, not the Breakin' kind, but rather, the Wind that makes my Vocal Chords "Vibrate", oh, shall I say, what seems, to be able to, give, that, good ole "Per-Pet-U-Al-Motion", a "Run" for "its" Money...lol...........................Even I was Surprised, at how Much Time was Gobbled-Up, when I made that First, Oil Filled Ignition Coil, KZbin, Video of mine, and I guess, that, in itself, is a Really Good example, of, just how, "Time Can Really Fly", and, be able to do, just that, Without any "Wings", what-so-ever...!!!...lol.......................................From what You were sayin' about those "Go Fast & be-in able to Accelerate", almost to the point of, be-in "Shot-Out-of-a-Cannon"..."Muscle Cars"...with all of that Neck-Snappin', and be-in Pinned to the Back of the Driver Seat..."Acceleration"...from a Stand-Still Start, is Very Impressive, but, it comes with a Hefty Price Tag, in the form of High Test/Premium Gasoline, Purchases, as, most of Us, Muscle Car, Guys & Gals, pretty much know, that High Compression/High Performance Engines, like and need, that..."Champagne"..."High Test/High-est Available Octane Rated"..."Gasoline"...that, that there...."Gas Pump Bandit"...was able to..."Dispense"...!!!...lol.........Those, pretty darn "High", Rear Diff/Axle Ratios, as I see it, aren't the greatest thing to have, while Cruzin', at Highway Speeds, especially, if Your Transmission, in Top Gear, only has a 1 to 1 Ratio, and some Torque Converter Slippage, if it's an Auto-Trans, without a Lock-Up Torque Converter, but, with that 5.38 Rear Diff Ratio (got "Reduced to"...4.88...???), having, like You were sayin', those 30 Inch Diameter Rear Tires, should, as I see it, Knock-off, a Few Engine RPM's, as opposed to having, something like 14 Inch Wheels, with 26 Inch, Outside Diameter Tires Mounted on them, making Your 30 Inch/Diameter Tires, some-what of a Blessing, if You will...lol.....................Hmmmm...the Tires, are we talkin'...Mickey Thompson...B F Goodrich/Radial TA's...Goodyears...or Firestone...etc...???...........................Low Profile, Fat Tires, out-back, and Skin-nee's on the Front...???..............Thrush (muffler) "Woody-Wood-Pecker"..."Sticker"...Stuck-on-any-of-those-Muscle Cars"...at all...???...lol...........Chrome Reverse Wheels.............. Baby Moon Hubcaps...???...................Crager SS, 5 Spoke Wheels...???......................Hurst Shifter...............oh and, mustn't forget the "Shag Rug/Carpeting" as well...lol.................................The "Scariest Ride", that I've ever been in, was my Friend's "Retired", 1/4 Mile..."Early 1970's...Chevy VEGA...that he bought, from a Guy, who use to Race "it" (1/4 Mile), and it had a Full Tube & Sheet Metal Interior, 2 Front Seats, became Street Legal, and "it" was bought, without an Engine or Transmission............................He got a hold of a Chevy 454 (not sure about the Build), and something along the lines of really Beef-ee, B&M Auto-Trans, and, I'm guessin', You'll probably have a really good Idea, and, be able to "Relate" to, "Just What"...???...that "Little Chevy Vega" was..."Capable Of"...do You not...???...as in..."YIKES"..."Hole-ee-Gwalk-ah-Mole-ee"...get out the "FEBREZE" (air freshener), and, get the Diaper, that who-ever?... was Wearin'..."Changed"...cuz...who-ever-it-was-Ridin'...in that..."Lil-Chevy-Vega"....just..."Shat"...lol..................................Even when I did a "Ride-Along", in that Vega, while my Buddy, was just "Gently", Drivin' the "Thing", every time, that, that Auto-Trans "Up-Shifted" (Normally), my "Neck Snapped Back", cuz of how "Crisp", that Vega's "Auto Trans"..."Shifted"...Gears...and I'm pretty sure, that, there "Never Was", an "Auto Trans"..."Shift Kit"...ever Made, that could make an Auto-Trans..."Shift"...like that Vega's...Auto-Trans..."DID"..."Wowsers"...!!!..............................I do recall, how He was sayin', about how His Vega's Cooling System, had the (bad) Habit of "Over-Heating", and how he was contemplating, Installing , a 4-Core Rad (Radiator), to Cool the damn Thing Down..............................Oh, and, from what He was sayin', way back then, was, just, How Much "Attention", that He was gettin', from the "Po-Leese", as I can just imagine...lol...................................Nice "Lottery Win", on gettin' a hold of that 68 CS (Cutlass Supreme...???), for such a Price, my Friend...!!!...........................I always "Liked", that Year & Body Style", of that "Olds", that You were tellin' me about........................Perhaps, consider Turning it into a 442, maybe...???................................I think, that, 442 designation, might be along the lines, of..."4" Barrel Carburetor..."4" Speed Transmission....and..."2", as in Dual Exhaust, well, as far as I remember, that is (hopefully)................................Have Fun...in, and with Your..."67 Firebird"..."In-the-City"...while..."Accelerating"...from..."Stop Light"...to..."Stop Light"...oh and, when You happen to see, Not just a Red Light..."Flashin',...but, also havin' a "Blue Light"...Mixed-In-With-that-Red-Flashin'-Light...along with Hearin'..that there..."SIREN"...just remain..."Calm"..."Pull-over-to-the-Side-of-the-Road"...and..."Sign"...that there..."Speedin' Ticket"...that, that..."Police Officer/State Trooper"..."Hands You"...cuz..."They Have a Gun"...and...the..."Police Cars"...will also be..."Equipped With Highway Gears'...that will enable them to go to Speeds, that are kinda like..."Infinity and Beyond"...as compared to...Your Firebird's..."Top Speed"...oh and..."Radio Waves"..."Travel, almost at the Speed of Light"...and, the..."Other Law Enforcement Officers"...will..."Be in Place"...maybe with a..."Road Block"...or two...oh and, maybe, just maybe...some of those...."Go Flat Tires on Your Car"..."Spike Belts"...that will probably..."Slow You Down"...quite a bit, might be..."Deployed"...as well...so..."Make Your Choice"..."WISELY"...!!!...lol....................................Well......Till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@davidchapman3563]

This is really helpfull to me.im kinda new to 2 stroke motorized bicycle motors and this is helping me diagnose my issues and helps me help other people with them

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...David Chapman.........Thanks for watching.........Well, I've spent, quite a bit of time, with, the good ole "2-Smokes", ooops, I meant to say, "2-Strokes" (as in, 2-Stroke cycle engines)...........About the only thing, that might, make reading, a 2-stroke-cycle engine's, spark plug colors, more difficult to read, than, that of, a 4 stroke cycle engine, is probably, a really low ratio, of, gasoline, to, 2-stroke oil mixture..........Let's take for example, some of those, gasoline to oil mixture "ratios", shall we..........Some, much older, 2- stroke, motorcycle engines, as I recall, could have had, a 20-to-1 (gasoline to 2-stroke oil) mixing ratio.............There was also, a 2-stroke oil (was it Optimol?), that was mixed, up to, 100 to 1...!!!...(Wowsers...!!!)..........Then, there are also synthetic, 2-stroke oils, as well as, blended, 2-stroke oils too..........Then, some folks, still like using, castor (bean) oil (old school stuff, that works...!!!)...........I usually, end up, using 50 to 1 ratio, for most 2-strokes, these days, and, even that ratio/mixture, can show up on a spark plug, as well...........Here are a few things, that you might want to think about..........What Gasoline, type and octane rating, does your motor's manufacturer recommend...???............What type of 2-stroke oil, and (mixing) ratio, is recommended...???...........Always, try to use the Factory "recommended" spark plug, to help keep your engine "safe", especially so, the "heat range" of the spark plug, so, you don't end up with engine "damage"...!!! (try to get the same spark plug brand and type/numbers, and/or letters on it), that was "originally installed", in the engine, by the manufacturer..........Make sure, that, the spark plug's "Gap" (that be, the air space, that's between, the spark plug's, 2 electrodes), is, the same as, what your engine's Manufacturer "specifies", or, if not, Ya might end up with a weak spark, at the spark plug, or maybe, if it's too Big, then, that in itself, can overwork the ignition coil (if it has one, that is)..........Use good quality 2-Stroke oil (never use the cheap/junk stuff), so, your engine lasts a long time...........Always, try to use, "fresh" gasoline, not, old, sitting around for a long time, gasoline, because, it's crap (so to speak)...........If the spark plug gets really dirty (might be carbon deposits), then, that can cause a..."Weak Spark"...or, a..."No Spark"...situation, where, that high voltage, will usually, try to find the easiest way, to an (electrical) ground source, and might be, right through, something like, carbon contamination, that's, stuck onto the spark plug's porcelain, as an example..........Also, keep your engine's "air filter"..."Clean"...because, that engine has to breathe, oh, and, a Dirty air filter, will usually make the engine run "Rich" (air to fuel ratio/too much fuel in the ratio), and less performance, and less gas mileage, it will usually be............So, if Ya keep things fresh, clean, and not too old, parts-wise, then, your 2-stroke cycle engine, should have the best chance, at being "trouble free", well, hopefully, that is...........Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe (wear a helmet...!!!).....take care, and have a good one.

[@davidchapman3563]

RockysRoadshow i apreciate the help!thank you!

[@skii_two]

Hey there! I’ve got a 2 stroke snowmobile that’s not running right. The throttle is very delayed , and it’s not running right. I assumed it’s to rich, and the spark is inconsistent, but there are some people who says it’s fine. It’s a little oily-ish on the rings, but relatively dry on the inside of the plug. The electrode is coated with a thin layer of black all around. I’ve only run these plugs for a week total.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Skii.........Thanks for watching........Is your spark plug's "heat range" correct for your exact engine, as in, the same spark plug that was in your engine when brand new...???.........Sometimes, when using a different brand of spark plug, the cross referencing isn't right, or maybe, the parts guy made a boo boo maybe........If you have a manual choke, try to shut it off as soon as possible, while still having the engine, keep running without stalling........Try not to idle your engine too long, and keep the RPM's up, as, lugging the engine down, at low RPM's, tends to foul spark plugs somewhat.........Don't use a dirty, carbon, or oil fouled spark plug, or it's probably gonna be, an engine "misfire", that you'll end up with, which causes even more carbon buildup........Try a new spark plug, that is the same brand and part number as the factory installed one, and also, make sure that, the spark plug's "Gap" (distance between the two electrodes), is set at the factory "Specified" measurement...........Are you using the correct gasoline to two stroke oil ratio...??? (or maybe you have an auto-lube system)..........Correct gasoline "Octane", as per your owners manual...???..........Good luck, and.....till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

...the Old-School method that I use, has served me very well, as I haven't Destroyed any engine thus far, due to having said engine jetted too lean, and running at Wide-Open-Throttle....If any of the engines that I have, or have had in the past, had any running issues at all, I most certainly would-not apply full-throttle, until I saw that "Safe" Tan color on my spark plugs....Also, with the older "Conventional" style of spark plugs, I keep a close watch on the Gap-Growth...(con't)

[@c41man]

I like your explanations and visuals on reading spark plugs. I just rebuild the sbc 350 in my Nova and I want to keep an eye on my plugs to check my work. The plugs look good going by your video, thanks.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...DIY Dave..........Thanks for the nice comment, and, thanks for watching...........I'ts good to hear, that, your engine, seems to be healthy...........If you are using, those old school, cheaper spark plugs, then, check the spark plug's "gap", once in a while, as, the old rule of thumb, use-tah be, that, there would be, about .001" (one thousandths of an inch), gap "growth", for every 1,000 Miles, that, the vehicle travelled...........Also, on those older style/cheaper spark plugs, when the "center" electrode's outside edges (around its perimeter), started to get rounded over (not a sharp edge anymore), then, the ignition coil, would have to, work a lot harder, to make that spark, jump the gap...why you ask, well...from what I've heard in the past, was that, high voltage sparks, find it much easier, to jump from "sharp" edges..........Makes sense to me alright, as, the much newer spark plug's "center" electrodes, are very small in diameter, and usually made out of precious metal (platinum/iridium), so, the center electrode would be able to last longer, seeing as how, it was so tiny, as compared to, the older/cheaper spark plugs, that had, the much larger diameter, center electrode, which was not, made out of a precious metal at all, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@Okierover]

Thanks so much for the education. I wish I had a pic of the plugs I pulled from a 2006 Ford Explorer. The outer electrodes was eaten away back to where the electrode curved. We put new plugs in and it was a completely different car. Thanks again.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Eric Stephens.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........It's good to hear, that, all the engine needed, was a new set of spark plugs, b-cuz, the cost of doing so, isn't all that much at all, when being compared to, one of those...(and, I'll use PG-13 terminology), as in..."Oh My Goodness"...I just spent my Vacation Pay, to fix the car...truck...or...what-ever...the heck it is...lol...........I'm guessin', that, your 2006 Ford Explorer, has a V-6 Engine in it, b-cuz, if it was a V-8 Engine, then, those particular spark plugs, are very long, and can sometimes get stuck, and, sometimes, they can be quite the headache, to get them removed safely, from the (V-8 engine's) cylinder head............If you do have the (4-liter) V-6, then, from what I saw, was that, it would probably be using, some conventional/common looking spark plugs...........I always "check" (aka, measure), the..."Gap"...that is between the spark plug's Electrodes, and, make sure that, that Gap, is with-in the Gap-size (usually measured in, thousandths of an inch), that, the vehicle Manufacturer, recommends, for that "exact" engine (please note, that, some spark plug designs..."are not"...Adjustable/Gap-able...!!!)...........Those..."eaten-away"...electrodes, would probably have caused, the "Gap", to increase, to quite the BIG Gap-size alright..........When-ever the spark plug's "Gap-size", shall we say, grows "Bigger" then Specified, then, the Ignition coil, or coils, as the case may be, will have to Work a Lot Harder (think in terms, of the ignition coil, being over-stressed), in order to make a "Spark", jump between those, "much further apart", Electrodes..........If the spark plugs are the common/older type (no precious metals on them), then, they usually don't last all that long, and, they should be changed, at the Manufacturer's recommended "interval"...........Same goes for all ignition system parts, Filters, etc...........Installing, New Ford/specified spark plugs, that have the correct electrode Gap, will more than likely, result in much better Performance, and better Gas Mileage too, but, only, if Ya can keep Ur Big Foot...under control...!!!...lol...and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@catdakman1273]

The truck is 1991 silverado 4x4 5.7l auto with 97K miles I think. Motor #2. I just found the distributer hold down bolt loose, its been slowly turning. EGR valve was stuck also. Plugs only had 2000 miles on them. A stock Tbi motor that has had a stalling problem, at idle, RPM just falls off to 0. After resetting timing, all new tune-up parts installed and new EGR, runs smooth, but stalling after a few seconds of slow idle is back. Fuel pump, filter,lines all about three yrs old. Plus, dash oil psi gauge reads 20psi at start-up, less when hot. No engine knock, but only OBD1 code is knock sensor. Thanks, Cat

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Cat Dakman………..Wowsers…!!!...good job, on describing, just about everything...…...A distributor that "self-adjusts"...???...lol...…….There can be quite a few things, that can cause an engine, such as yours is, to stall (stop running), while at idle speed RPM's...…...Now then, about you sayin'...re-setting the timing...…….Did you (or who-ever?), use the correct procedure, along with, setting it, at the "specified" base ignition timing...???...…...I'm pretty sure, that, the procedure, might be, to have the engine fully warmed up to operating temperature first, then, shut off the engine...then...disconnect that tan colored wiring connector, that's reasonably close to, the distributor...then...start the engine...then, with a timing light, probably set the "base" ignition timing, at the specified number of degrees (with my, four years newer, GMC V-6 engine, the base timing, is set at "Zero" degrees, as an example, oh, and also, on my harmonic balancer, had "2" lines/grooves in it, so, I had to make sure and use, the correct line/groove, or, the base timing, wouldn't even be close...!!!)………..Once you are absolutely sure, that, the "base" timing is set "correctly", as is "specified", for your exact engine and vehicle, then, we can move on further...…….The "idle air control valve" (IAC), can also cause idling problems too, as, this IAC, really only affects idle speed ("it" controls the amount of air, that enters the engine, at idle speed only)……...Careful now, if adjusting or replacing an IAC, because, there might be two types/styles of them, and, they are pre-set differently...get it wrong, and, a new one will be needed...……Have a look, inside of your distributor, with the cap, off of it, and have a look-see, where those 8 triangles are located...…….If Ya can see, what looks to be, a magnet near those 8 triangles, then, look very closely, maybe, even with a magnifying glass, for any "cracks" in, said magnet...……Cracks = not good, and, might cause, shall we say, ghost signals, that will probably make for, a very confused signal, for the ignition control module, as well as, the vehicle's on-board computer, as well...…….Also, while Ur at it, have a look-see, inside of the distributor cap, and inspect that center, contact button (if it's the small type, that's spring loaded, they sure don't last very long...!!!)………..Did you clear that OBD-1 code, as in, "knock sensor"...???...…...With a properly operating EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve, then, the ignition timing "advance", can be increased a few degrees, and not trigger, that about 6300 Hz (cycles per second), knock triggering frequency, where-as, a non-functioning EGR valve, won't dilute the air/fuel mixture enough, before it ignites, inside of the engine's cylinders (please note, that, it's the vehicle's on-board computer, that controls the ignition timing advance amount/degrees, and, if, the knock sensor, sends a, shall we say, knock "signal" to the computer, then, the computer, will usually, back-off/reduce, the ignition timing advance, just enough, in order to not allow any more engine knock, to take place...…..Some computers, might only back-off/reduce, the ignition timing advance, by about 10 crankshaft degrees....maybe...???)………..Are you putting the specified "Octane" rated gasoline, into the Silverado's gas tank...???...…...If you happen to put in 87 Octane, into a vehicle's gas tank, that was specified to have 90 or above, then, that alone, could very well cause a knock signal or two, especially if, the on-board computer, wasn't able to compensate, for doin' such a thing...just sayin' now...……Get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge, and, check the fuel pressure, at idle, and different RPM's as well...…...A throttle body fuel injection system, will probably have, up to about 13 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch, of fuel pressure...but, always look up, the "exact specifications", for your vehicle first...!!!...…...Air and fuel filters clean...???...…….Make sure, that, your EGR valve stays "closed", during idle speed, or otherwise, if the EGR valve allows any exhaust gas, to get inhaled into the engine, while at idle speed, then, it might be a sHaKiNg engine, or like yours is now...silent...lol...…...Now then, my take, on oil pressure...…….Ya can get away with, about 10 PSI, at idle speed, on a factory stock engine...…...The good ole rule of thumb (so to speak), was to, have about, 10 PSI, for every 1,000 engine RPM's (probably be a minimum...huh), oh, and, those PSI's, would be, when the engine is up to full, operating temperature (cold oil pressure, sure looks impressive alright, but, hot oil, is the true nature of the beast...lol)………..Another thing to do, is to, shine a timing light at the harmonic balancer, while the engine is running, while the gear selector is in park, with the emergency on...……..Now then, what Ur looking for, is, is the timing mark staying in one place, while the engine RPM's are being held steady, or, is that timing mark moving forwards or backwards...……..If it's "not stationary", while holing the engine RPM's steady, then, it will probably be an ignition related problem...……..Sometimes, the timing light's flashes, will appear to be skipping, or missing, and, not be, at steady/regular intervals (this might indicate an ignition system problem as well, or maybe, it's time to get a new timing light...maybe...???...lol)……….It's a 4x4...yes...???...well, if, while in any 4x4 mode, that actually "lock" the front differential (axle), with the rear one, then, watch out for "wind-up", which has been known, to destroy a transfer case or two...…….To try and avoid that, so called 4x4 "wind-up", then, make sure, that, the "outside" diameter, of, all 4 tires, are all (reasonably) the "same" (outside) diameter, oh, and, I'll even bet, that, tire pressure, might just play, some kind of a role as well, maybe...???...you be the judge, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings (once again) Cat Dakman……….Here's something else, that, I didn't mention, in my last reply to you, about, what might be causing, your Silverado's engine, to be stalling, at idle speed rpm's..……..Another thing to check-for, happens to be, any "intake" related (air) "vacuum leaks", as in, any air leak, that shouldn't be taking place, as a result of, something like, a faulty gasket/loose bolts or nuts, or perhaps, a small diameter, rubber-like vacuum hose, or maybe, it's made out of hard plastic pipe/tubing, that has become disconnected, or perhaps, cracked or split, which will allow un-wanted/un-metered air, to be inhaled, by the engine...……..Vacuum leaks, are usually, most noticed, while the engine is at idle speed rpm's, and, sometimes, the engine will shake a little bit, or lots, depending on, just how bad, that hypothetical vacuum leak, happens to be, and yes, if a vacuum leak is bad enough, a stalling engine, it could very well be...……….I use a Vacuum "Gauge" (about $50 Dollars, give or take a bit), and hook it's rubber-like hose, to a port, or fitting, that goes into the intake manifold, on a throttle body/fuel injected, or carbureted engine, and, on the newer types of fuel injected engines, I hook the vacuum gauge's rubber-like hose, to a vacuum source, that goes, directly into, the intake (air) plenum (the word plenum, is just a fancy name, for an air chamber...lol)………..All-righty-then, with my fully warmed-up, 4.3 liter V-6 engine, I saw about 17" Hg at idle speed rpm's (Hg = inches of mercury, showing on the vacuum gauge), which is about normal, oh, and, the gauge's indicating needle/pointer, held steady, and didn't wave at me...lol...which I don't want it to do, as, that would be indicating, one of the many problems, that, a vacuum gauge, has the ability/reputation, for being able to show, as in, detecting/diagnosing a multitude of problems/running defects, well, if Ya can interpret the needle/pointer's behaviour, properly, that is...lol...………On some, if not most, vacuum gauges, there is usually seen, some different colored lines, and, if the needle/pointer, is with-in the green color band, then, a good day, it will usually be...…….Lem-me-see-now.....your vacuum leak, if there happens to be one, that is, might be, a port or fitting, on the throttle body, or, intake manifold, that is open to the atmosphere, and doesn't have a vacuum hose connected to it, where there should be one, or perhaps, a rubber-like plug or cap, might be missing (do a visual check, for anything, that might cause, an un-wanted, vacuum/air leak)………..Are the throttle body's, bolts or nuts tight enough...???...…….Are all of the intake manifold bolts, and/or nuts, tightened down properly...???...…….The gasket, that's sandwiched, between the bottom of the throttle body, and, the top of the intake manifold, has to be in very good condition...…… The two intake manifold gaskets, on a V-8 (or V-6) engine, have to be, in, very, very good condition, or, if not, then that, in itself, is just begging for, a good ole "vacuum leak"...lol...……I replaced my V-6's intake manifold gaskets, and, it sure helped a lot, probably because, the original factory ones, were laminated (sandwiched) together, as in, gasket material, was on one side, sheet metal in the middle, then, another layer of gasket material on the other side...…….I found, that, just by looking at the old intake manifold gaskets, that, they looked to be, really dry (brittle...???), and, where they were squished, between the intake manifold, and the cylinder head, well, they didn't look so good to me, at all, so then, I installed, a set of Felpro (good quality) intake manifold gaskets, and, I'm sure that helped quite a bit, with the rough idle, that I had at the time...……Have a look, at your Silverado's "oxygen sensor/s" sometime, as, by doing so, is, well, kinda, the same-as, looking at a spark plug, somewhat...……I've had it, where, the engine was running, really, really "rich" (air-fuel ratio/mixture-wise) due to a fuel injection problem, and, the oxygen sensor, was all covered, (big-time), with lots of, dry, black carbon...!!!...……It got so bad one time, where, it seemed like, I smelled something "burning", somewhat (the mini-van was parked, engine was running, and, I had the doghouse, aka, engine cover, off, of the engine, at the time), so, I jumped out, and had a look underneath the van, and...Hole-ee-gwalk-ah-mole-ee...the damn...catalytic converter...was..."Glowing"...a..."Bright Orange Color...!!!...(now, that's HOT...!!!)...needless to say, it sure didn't take me very long, to turn off that ignition key...!!!...lol...……..So yeah, never park a "rich" running, catalytic converter equipped vehicle, on top of, any dry grass, or flammable material, or..."hear that"...???...here come the Firetrucks...!!!...lol...……Well, maybe I'm a bit too late, as in, Ya got er fixed already, maybe...???...and...….till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@catdakman1273]

@@RockysRoadshow Thank you VERY MUCH for your input. I do have one vacume line to check. Plastic tube with rubber ends that are different sizes at each end. Cold temps outside hear now so have to prepare to be outside. I will let you know. Thanks again, CAT

[@catdakman1273]

Fixed a vacuum leak....... now truck will not start cold. 35 degrees or less motor only starts after putting fuel or eather down tbi. Then runs fine. Got to go now....

[@DavidSmith-mk7qo]

Good job glad to see a video that explains this issue well.

[@chemicalspore]

The Spark Plug Doctor will see you now. Great Video

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...NoneSponsored/BunkAssMechanic………….Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….Well, automotives, is just one, of my many hobbies, and, my way of, shall we say, reading a spark plug, is just a basic, quick, visual check, to see how much electrode wear/gap growth has taken place, as well as, what, if any, deposits, are stuck onto the business end of the spark plug, that just came out of, that particular engine's cylinder head...……..Then, there's the, shall we call them, racing crowd perhaps, where-by, they will look, really, really close, down into the spark plug, where the porcelain, meets up with, the inside of, that screw-threaded metal shell...……..They will sometimes remove a spark plug, after, just doing, a 1/4 mile drag-race (might only be 1,000 feet at some race tracks, perhaps), and then, they will probably get out their, what kinda resembles, a doctor's, ear checking, magnifying, flashlight, kinda thing, and then, look deep down, into the spark plug, to see what kind of, light, deposit/coating shows up, and if need be, they can also change fuel jets, in a carburetor, if so equipped, and/or, what-ever else is needed, in order to adjust/correct, the air/fuel ratio, that will give the best 1/4 mile time, while also, keeping the engine safe, from being damaged, by going too lean, of an air/fuel ratio, while going full out/pedal to the metal...……...Now-ah-days, Ya can just install a wide-band (oxygen sensor), that comes in a kit, along with, an air/fuel ratio gauge, that will be a able to show, just what, the air/fuel ratio is, in real time, as you are driving along, at any speed, and throttle (gas pedal) position, that you so choose, and...…..till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@chemicalspore]

@@RockysRoadshow you really know what you are doing. This has the longest reply I've ever recieved. Thank you.

[@RockysRoadshow]

You are most certainly welcome, my Friend....I'm glad that my video was able to be of some help to you...Take care, and have yourself a nice day!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings once again Chris Norwick....I for got to mention the reason that I usually look for that "Tan" Color on the spark plugs that I use, and have used in the past....Most books that I have read, have pictures and explanations of what "Normal" spark plugs should look like when you take a look at them, with some time/mileage on them....The books say to look for Tan, or Gray-ish Tan (pictures show this as well), although, some of the Newer-Engines may show the "Scary-White" color...(con't)

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Swaggerboy740....Thanks for your nice comment, and, I'm glad that you liked it as well....Take care, and have a good one...

[@RockysRoadshow]

...the method that I have been using for a very long time, to read my spark plugs, is what works for me....However, since most of the Gasoline that had Lead (pronounced Led), and is no longer available for street use, makes it more difficult for some to actually see, or read spark plugs, due to the "Un-Leaded" Gasoline, and some of the newer Formulations out there, leaving next to No-Deposits on your spark plugs to "Read!"....I hope that you find some (crossing fingers...lol)....Take care

[@RockysRoadshow]

...From what I recall, the 727-Torqueflite (Torqueflight) was supposed to be filled with Dexron, according to the books/manuals that I have read....I also recall hearing about, or maybe reading about, that the Dexron, had an Additive to help with the Auto-Transmissions Seals, as far as Conditioning the Seals, so that they don't start leaking perhaps?....Yes-Sir, nothing like having your car with a "No-Drive-in-any-gear-on-your-Shifter", while trying to get Home....Take care, and have a good one

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Bashir Ahmed....Indeed, over here in North America, daily life in general terms, seem to be something that we take for granted, probably because we are not subjected to all of the pain and suffering that others around the world are experiencing, mainly due to disagreements and power struggles....It is one thing that adults harm one another, but, it is just not morally right to cause harm to children, in any way, shape, or form....Take care, and, best wishes, my Friend...

[@Albinus81]

They have MMT over here, it's primarily used as an octane enhancer rather than an AVSR. I'm advanced 15 degrees BTDC running 100 octane w/ 10% ethanol. No detonation at all! Gap growth isn't usually an issue as I replace the plugs every 20,000KM out of habit LOL. Yeah, oils here seem to have more zinc in them than the US and the white deposits are similar to leaking coolant but synthetic oils stop this. Take care as well!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings David Smith....Thanks kindly for your nice comment, my Friend...What you saw in this particular Spark Plug video of mine, was just my way of showing, and informing People of what my thoughts were, and from what experience I have gained over the years, as a "Shade-Tree-Mechanic"...Yes-Sir, that's right, I'm not a Certified Mechanic by any stretch of ones imagination...lol...I guess all of those old spark plugs wanted me to tell "Their" Story, that's all...Take care, and have a good one

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Thomas Ferrell....Thanks for your comment....I have run Lean a few times, but only while at lower RPM's and not at Wide Open Throttle! (luckily...whew!...lol)...Once, was when an EGR Valve got stuck open because of a chunk of Carbon (about the size of a pepper corn) got lodged between the valves pintle and the hole that it was suppose to close while at Idle, and wide open throttle....Another was a Nylon Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve "Disassembled" itself into 2 Parts!...(con't)

[@daleanglin9460]

I watch your video of different colors spark plugs. My plugs where rust looking color and I change them with new ones now my Van starts up and die.. what would you Recommend doing now?

[@LUNARIAproject]

I bought a bike that has been sitting for 10 years and when I got it the oil was all black as well as the spark plug all black and full of soot. What would you say this is an indication of? What do I need to do before replacing the spark plug with a new one? Should I clean the inside where it sits or spray it with something first? I've changed the oil and gas and cleaned the carb. The bike ran very bad before and died when reaching 4:th gear after some time and when riding it for a while. So I have it taken apart now since I will be replacing the petcock since it was leaking.

[@strikemaster1]

Thanks for this very educational video. It certainly has helped me in understanding my own problems a bit more. I fly an ultra-light aircraft using a Rotax 582 inverted engine. That is... the engine is upside down with the plugs at the bottom. The manual says to change them every 50 hours, but mine never show hardly any wear, so I am tempted to leave them in for a while longer. They always are a wet dark grey colour without any build up at all. Its a 2 stroke engine, which accounts for wetness.

[@2secondslater]

Those original Chevy plugs show the right heat range at least, around two thirds of the earth electrode was coloured correctly. Perhaps you could do a further video on how to read plugs on an engine with pre-ignition or "pinging"?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Jake Elliott...…….Thanks for watching...…...Well, I don't happen to have, any spark plugs, that have any real damage on them, other than, a well worn/worn-out, high mileage on them, spark plugs, that have electrodes, that are, all, eaten-away by, high voltage "arcing" (sparking...lol), with rounded off corners, or, are all covered with, too many deposits, that might cause, a cylinder misfire...…...Come to think of it, I do have a few, spark plugs, that have, the Ceramic part of the spark plug..."Broken-in-two-Pieces"...and no, not caused when an engine was running, more like the Guy (Me...!!!...lol), that never kept the spark plug "socket-extension-and-ratchet", in line with the spark plug, as it was being installed, or sometimes, removed from an engine's cylinder head...!!!...lol...…….The newer vehicle's engines, that are fuel injected and computer controlled, will probably have "knock sensors" on them, so, once the knock "frequency" becomes present, then, the knock sensor will then be telling the vehicle's on-board computer, to..."Back-Off" the ignition timing advance amount, until that knock "frequency" is gone...!!!...so, if the gasoline Octane is too low, for an engine that requires a higher Octane rating, then, the engine, will usually be protected from any real damage, by what the knock sensor/s monitor...…….On the older carbureted engines, without an on-board computer, then yes, engine pinging and knocking, sure are possible alright...…….Too low of an Octane rating, for an engine, that requires a Higher Octane rating...too much ignition advance (in a distributor)...or...too lean of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), can sometimes be a problem, and, if really bad, engine damage can be quite severe, especially when, going "wide open throttle/pedal to the metal"...!!!...and......till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings strikemaster1....Thanks for your nice comment....I've heard that the Rotax engines are a great engine, with excellent build quality as well....If you do try extending your spark plug(s) replacement interval as suggested by your engines manufacturer, may I suggest for safety reasons that you pay very close attention to how your engine is running, you know, like, misfiring, or miss-behaving in any way, shape, or form, so as to prevent you from being harmed in any way...(con't)

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Sameer2762....If you have the older style of spark plug/plugs, the electrical current (spark), prefers to jump off of a sharp edge (center electrode not rounded off due to arcing)....Also, deposits can create an electrical path, then, no spark between the electrodes....Also, is the battery ok? (fully charged?)...Magneto perhaps?...or, any related wiring as it applies to the ignition circuit?....Try a new spark plug/plugs properly gapped first, hopefully, that will fix it (con't)...

[@hussain1049]

Great video that could really help people with any car issues. I've got a Nissan skyline R33 gtst and the coil packs needs to be changed. How much should it cost to change them all?

[@RockysRoadshow]

+ayatullah qasimi ....Greetings ayatullah qasimi....Thanks for Your nice comment, and also, for watching too...................Probably better, if You were to first, make a few Phone Calls, to some of the Automotive Parts Businesses, in the Area where You Live, as to, the Price, of the "Exact" Part or Parts, for Your Car, that You are interested in.....................If the Part/s are not available, or, are Priced too High for Your liking, then, there are so many, Auto Part Sellers On-Line as well (EBAY, as an example), that You can check out, but, be Very Careful when-ever making any Purchases or Payments On-Line, cuz, there are a few, Not so Trustworthy People out there, that, just might, try to Rip You Off (Money-wise, that is)..................If Purchasing On-Line, maybe check out something like PayPal, cuz that Company, kinda acts like the Middle-Man (between the Buyer and Seller), and, will probably make On-Line Purchases, that much Safer.....................Low Prices, aren't everything, so consider the Quality of the Parts as well, cuz, some of those Cheap Parts, might not be all that good, or last very long either...................Good Luck, finding those Parts, that You're looking for, and............till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@hussain1049]

Thank you so much friend :) I did call few nearby companies and compared the different prices. So what should be an appropriate cost for all 6 coil packs or just 3?

[@RockysRoadshow]

+ayatullah qasimi ....Greetings ayatullah qasimi....You're welcome................I had a look around, and the Prices are, shall we say, Far and Wide...!!!...................It depends on the Brand/Manufacturer, and maybe, by purchasing all 6 at once, that has the possibility of lowering the price as well.......................Your Engine has the 6 COP/Coil on (spark) Plug, type of, Individual Ignition Coils, does it not,...cuz, that's what came up, when I looked for it/them....................I saw prices, like, from about 40 to 100 US/United States of America Dollars, just for "One" Ignition Coil............Maybe, 200 to 300 US Dollars, for a Set or 6 of them....maybe more...maybe less, depending on the Brand/Manufacturer, and, whether or not, they happened to be, the Factory/Stock type, or the Performance/Racing type.....................There are some really good Websites, that have "Forums" on them, where You can ask, some of the very Smart People, on those Website "Forums", just about any Question, that You might have, about Your Car, and some of those, Nissan, Car, Guys & Gals, will probably have lots of Experience, with Your Exact Car and Engine.....................So, do an Internet Search, for Nissan (car) Websites, that have Skyline "Forums" on them, that way, they can actually tell You, what-ever You might want to know, about Your "Exact Car and Engine", and maybe, where to get the Best Deal, on Your Ignition Coils as well..................Good luck, and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@hussain1049]

+RockysRoadshow wow that's great price because this other mechanic said it will cost $1300 for the 6 since it's a sports car and I was shocked so thank u so much for the appropriate price range

[@RockysRoadshow]

+ayatullah qasimi ....Greetings ayatullah qasimi....My first consideration, is, try to get, "Good Quality Auto-Parts", from a Reputable Auto-Parts Manufacturer.......That $1300, was that, just for 6-Ignition Coils (Parts Only), or was that Price-Quote, for Installation as well...???.................Just wonderin', have You ever come across that good ole sayin'..."Buyer Beware"...???...cuz, judging by that Very High Price, that You were quoted, then, I'd say, that, to me, it kinda sounds like, the Mark-Up (that's the price, over and above, what the seller paid for the item originally, before adding the, shall we say, profit-amount to it), is Way Too Much, for my liking, that's for sure..........................It's kinda, like they say, about Medical Doctors..."Get a Second Opinion"...especially, if the Topic of..."Surgery"...is being discussed...!!!...Yikes...!!!.....$1300 USA Dollars...??? (for 6 Ignition Coils Only)...well, for that kinda Money, those Parts (for me, that is), would have to be "Coated with Gold"...!!!...or, I'd be Laughing at them, as I was leaving the building...lol...(sounds, kinda like, Highway Robbery, to me).............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...if it were Me, I'd be asking the Person (to His Face), that Quoted You that "Price", what "They"..."Paid for those Parts"...???...yeah-right...like They would Tell You...!!!...lol.............You see my Friend, there are quite a few, not so nice People out there, that are more than willing, to take Your hard earned Money, from You, simply, cuz, after talkin' to You, for what seems to be, not too long at all, those, Not-so-Nice-People, can usually tell, if You "Do", or "Don't" know, very much, about, and in this case, we happen to be talkin' about "Automobiles", and once, these, not-so-nice-people, "Sense", that You, (and probably, the countless number of Women, that got ripped-off as well), that, "Don't" Know, all that much about Automobiles, then, that's usually when, I like to use, one of those, good ole sayin's, be-in..."Taken-to-the-Cleaners" (more like, Cleaning-out-Ur-Bank-Account)...!!!...................Here's a True Example, that I experienced in the past.................I needed an Alternator, for a Mazda, that had a Rotary Engine in it, so, I Phoned around, and I got 2 Prices, from 2 Dealerships (or were they Stealerships...???...lol), One Quoted me about $250, and the Other One, Quoted me about $350 (both, in terms of, Canadian Dollar Currency at the time), and, after hearing those Two..."Make-Them-Rich"...Prices, I said to myself, it kinda looks like, I'd better start looking for, a "Rebuilt/Re-Man/Re-Manufactured" Alternator................So, I started lookin' in the Phone Book, for some Auto-Parts Sales places, and, after makin' a few phone calls, I finally found an Auto-Parts place, that Quoted me...now get this, a "Brand New Alternator"...for...a little less than..."63-Dollars"...!!!...(I was in Disbelief)...so, I said to myself, Self, You need's to Drive over there, to "See it for Yourself"...so, I did just that, and, I just about Fell-Over, cuz, not only was that Alternator "Brand New", it was in (as I recall), a Factory "Mitsubishi", Cardboard Shipping Box, that also had, the Official-Looking Stickers/Markings on it as well...!!!...Damn, I hit the "Jack-Pot" on that One...!!!...lol................Also, that Rotary Engine Uses "Special Spark Plugs", that have either, 2, or 3, Side Electrodes on them, that I could choose from.............Dealership wanted over 10-Dollars (each), and, the place I got that Alternator from, were less that 5-Dollars (each), and, yet again, I say..."Jack-Pot"...!!!...lol....................So, it just goes to show, that, by spending a bit of time, Checking here and there, that, quite a LOT of Money can be saved, if You so choose, other-wise, You'll probably be makin' Someone-else, shall we say..."Rich"...!!! (it's Your choice, after-all, when it comes right down to it), and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care (of Your Money), and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Wildfalcon55...Good job in coming up with your spark plug Holding Rack...I have done pretty much the same thing, only the blocks of wood that I use are currently organizing some screwdriver bits, and a needle file set...I usually remove one spark plug at a time, so I don't have to keep track of all of those spark plug leads...Just remember, if you trade in your vehicle, lets say you switch from Ford to Chevy, or Chevy to Ford, the cylinder numbering is different!...Take care my Friend

[@RockysRoadshow]

...From my experience/experiences, sometimes electrical, and mechanical problems, turn out to be something different from what I first thought it was....There is also a thing called "Ignition Reserve"....That's when you have more available electricity at the ignition coil to fire your spark plug/plugs....When something like a fouled spark plug, or bad wiring tries to use more electricity then is available (ignition reserve), then it usually results in an ignition miss-fire....(con't)...

[@RockysRoadshow]

Sorry, I missed your other posts....I see that you have added some new parts...First thing that I'm thinking, is, when you replaced your spark plug wires, did you also install the "Spark Plug Wire Separator Plastic Clips" that clip onto the spark plug wires to keep them apart from one another?...Because if you have them too close to each other you may be getting "Induction Crossfire!"...That's when high voltage jumps from one wire to another one, causing a "Miss-Like" situation.

[@gerlandkent6377]

thank, you for you're video. theirs a cold plug and a hot plug I, buy Rapid fire plugs for all of my trucks and high test gas.

[@monstergreen6728]

I used to much octane booster and my plugs all turned orange! I'm assuming the top of the pistons and the bottom of the valves also all tured orange. Will running premium unleaded here in CA get rid of the orange??

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Sameer2762....Why, thanks kindly my Friend for your great comment....Actually, it has only "1" Thermoquad carburetor on it, and that's all it needs (flows 850 CFM!)-(Cubic Feet per Minute!)....If it was any other carburetor, then, it would only require about a 600 CFM size...Thermoquads have the ability to be over the recommended size because of the way that the "Secondary" Air Door was engineered...Also, comments below my videos have lots of information that you can read....Take care

[@alexpavlyuchenko6953]

Thank you for your effort to bring us this valuable material.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Alex Pavlyuchenko....You are Welcome, and, Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching as well....................The Spark Plugs, that I used in this Video, are mostly out of, much older, lower compression (ratio), Carburetor equipped Engines, and, as You saw, they had quite a bit, in the way of Deposits, showing on them...................You will more than likely, not be seeing, as many Deposits, on the Spark Plugs, that come out of, the much Newer Engines...unless...there happens to be an "issue/problem", with either, the (computerized) Ignition System (weak or faulty), or, the Fuel (gasoline) System (too rich of an air/fuel ratio/mixture), that is usually, a (computerized) Fuel Injection, type of fuel system (since about the mid 1980's there-abouts, in the USA or Canada, that is).............Thanks again, and........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@MrEataloggertoday]

What about how the timing affects the plugs? I have read that the ground strap is used to verify heat range and timing, and that the base ring is used for jetting, and lastly the porcelain is used for signs of detonation/preignition, and that you should never use the insulator as a reference for jetting, also putting to use a 10x power scope to really dial things in. Comments/thoughts?

[@DavidSmith-mk7qo]

Usually coolant will build up a white ashy look and over time will actually cake up closing up the gap and filling the bore of the plug with the same look.

[@Beartracks777]

A clean plug is a happy plug.

[@9011combo]

Hello...and yes your video very helpful cus one of my Honda's plugs have lots of oil at the end of it and I think and believe that the piston ring is bad...so now I'm in the process of pulling my engine apart and rebuild it...

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings once again 9011combo....Thanks for your comment and question, my Friend....I'm just assuming that your Honda, is a Car, and not one of the "Many" other Vehicles/Products/Engines that, Honda "Manufactures", and has a very Good Reputation for, as well....Now then, "Before" you start "Dismantling" (taking apart) your Honda's Engine, I would recommend (suggest) that you do a few more "Checks/Tests", before Blaming the Piston Ring/s for the "Oil-Deposit/s", on Only "1" of your Honda's Engine Spark Plugs....I don't work on Honda's, (well, at least not yet, that is), but, there may be some Items/Things, that Honda Engines "Share" with Many Other "Types" of Internal Combustion Gasoline Engines....The first thing that comes to mind is, Your Honda Engine should/might have "Valve Stem Oil Seals", and if they Don't "Seal" properly, Motor Oil can Trickle down the Valve Stem/s, and make its way into your Engine's Combustion Chamber (the Area between the Top of your Piston/s and your Cylinder Head, where your Valves and spark plugs are located). Another thing (I have seen this on "Domestic/North American" V-8's), is, when an "Oil Drain Hole", in One or Both (1 or 2) Cylinder Heads, at the Rear of the Engine, and because of the Angle/Slope that the Engine sits at, in the Engine Bay, gets "Plugged-Up, and "Prevents" the Oil from Draining Back down the Passageways, then, into the Oil Pan, at the bottom of the engine, will cause a "High" Oil Level (where there "Should-Not" be One!) in the rear of that/those cylinder heads, "Causing" that (shouldn't be there) High Oil Level, to "Flood" the Rear-Most Valve Stem Seals, then the Oil Flows Down the "Valve Guides", and, into the "Combustion Chamber!" Also, check out your P.C.V. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System. There should be a P.C.V. "Valve" somewhere (usually in, or near your Valve/Rocker Cover), that has to be Working Properly, in order to Vent/Re-Burn the Blow-By Gasses that gets past your Pistons Rings, and down into your Oil Pan. These "Blow-By" Gasses (unburned Gasoline/Hydrocarbons), eventually make their way to the Top of your engine, due to the Airflow created by your P.C.V. System. If your Engines P.C.V. System is Plugged, or, the P.C.V. Valve is stuck open, or plugged as well, this can cause some Unwanted Problems too. If the P.C.V. System gets Plugged-Up, I've heard that, it can cause enough "Unwanted-Pressure", and can even Make an Oil Seal start to "Leak!" You might also want to have your Engines "Compression Checked". The Compression Check, has the ability to tell you things about your Engine. It can tell you, how Worn the Pistons Compression Rings are. It can tell you if the Intake and Exhaust Valves are Leaking. It can also tell you if you happen to have a "Bad" Head Gasket as well. There are so many Tests/Observations that can be done, with almost any Engine, that will save you a "Ton-of Money", if those Tests/Observations tell you, that you might not have to "Dismantle" your Engine, to get the "Problem-Fixed!" So then, "Before" you start "Dis-Assembling" Your Honda's Engine, may I suggest that you have someone, that has lots of Experience with Honda Engines, run a few "Tests", Before you spend Extra Time and Money on your Honda, that may Not be needed after all. I wish you the best of luck, in getting your Honda's Engine "Healthy" once again. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@lordsauto]

How long should u run the plugs until u check for issues? Carburetor

[@jonstone6923]

What about checking the sparkplug for firing under pressure? My dad said mechanics use to use a box made for placing the plugs in it, pressure it with air and turn on a spark module to see how the plug would perform under pressure.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Jon Stone....Thanks for your Interesting comment, my Friend....Yes Sir, I'm very Aware that Spark Plugs like to Act Differently when be subjected to High Pressures that are found in an Engines (Cylinders) Combustion Chambers as opposed to just being "Out in the Open", and only exposed to Atmospheric Pressure that Maxes out at about 14.7 P.S.I. at Sea Level (but only on Planet Earth!...lol). I have never seen or heard about that "Magic Box" that your Dad was telling you about, and, I'm glad that You shared that Information with Others, and Myself, Thanks Dad! The closest thing to that "Magic Box" that any Gas Station, or, Automotive Garage might have had back in the Good Old Days, happened to be a "Spark Plug Cleaner", kinda like a Mini "SandBlaster" that was used to "Clean" Used Spark Plugs....I "Do Not" recommend that anyone use any kind of "SandBlasting" method to Clean (used) Spark Plugs, for the very Reason, that, all it takes is One "Tiny" Particle to get Lodged Way Up between the Threaded Metal Shell, and the Inner Porcelain, that can become "Dis-Lodged" (broken loose), and find its way into your Engines Cylinder and Combustion Chamber!....Imagine now, some Some Small Particles of "Sand" or whatever "Abrasive" Media that was used in those Good Old Spark Plug SandBlasters could do to your Engine, if those Tiny Particles were Let Loose inside your Engines Cylinders!...."Ouch" Oh yeah, I really should get back to the Subject at hand, that being about the Spark Plugs Operating Environment....Probably the first time that I was made aware of the Effect that an Engines Cylinder Pressure had on a Spark Plug, was when I use to "Check" a spark plugs "Spark" while just having the spark plug Laying on the Cooling Fins of a Single Cylinder Air Cooled Off Road 2 Stroke Cycle Motorcycle Engine while I was out in the Boonies (wilderness). As that Spark Plug Metal Threaded Shell was in Contact with the Cooling Fins of my Motorcycles Engine, and having the spark plug Lead (wire) connected to the spark plug, I would be getting a nice "Spark" between the "Electrodes", as I Kicked on the Kick Start (er)....But, when I Re-Installed that very Same spark plug, it just Would-Not "Light-The-Fire!" (aka, Ignite the Fuel Charge in the Engines Combustion Chamber). It was sure a Good Thing, that I kept a couple of Other "Used" Spark Plugs in my rear fender mounted, kinda like a Motorcycle "Fanny-Pack"...lol. So, I Installed one of those Used "Spare" spark plugs, and, the "Fire-Got-Lit", and, I was on my way, once again!....Those particular Spark Plugs happened to be some NGK Platinums....Fantastic Spark Plugs, when they are Not Fouled with Carbon, or, 2 Stroke Oil!...lol. I'm pretty sure, that, if, and when Anybody takes their Car or Truck in for a "Tune Up", the Mechanic won't be Checking "Used Spark Plugs" with the "Magic Box" that Dad told You/Us about, or with any Machine for that matter, because of that Old Saying, You know, "Time Is MONEY!"...(lol)....Heck, just be Thankful if that Mechanic Checks, and Sets the Spark Plug "Gap" before He/She Installs those Spark Plugs in "Your" Engine! Speaking of "Tune Ups", a few years ago, I received a Phone call from a Friend of mine, that just had his Truck "Tuned Up" by one of those "Specialized" Tune Up Shops....During that Phone Call, he was saying that his Truck was Running "Worse" After they did the Tune Up, then it was "Before" he took it to them!....I told him to drive his Truck to my place....His poor Truck was Running like-> (Insert You Own Word Here)

[@jonstone6923]

Thank you for righting me back. Dad said it was made by the mechanic who taught him all the mechanical knowledge at the time. We're talking 50's lol, dad said the guy made it so you could screw it in the top, it had a hose on the side to apply pressure and a coil to attach a wire. This same mechanic would repair car break pads! Wow I've never seen that, anyway. Thanks for your reply I'm glad to have found you on here, you sound old school which means you have knowledge! Thanks!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Jon Stone Greetings Jon Stone....You're welcome, for my reasonably, not too long (in time) reply....Yes-Siree-Bob, there's nothing like a Person that takes it upon Himself/Herself to become "Innovative" (does that word mean to "Invent?"...just a thought), and, that, "While-Under-Pressure-Magic-Box" that that Gentleman Invented/Built to "Test" Spark Plugs, is a testament to what is possible, when One takes His/Her Thoughts, and, Applies them in a Meaningful way. You had mentioned about that "Mechanic" Re-Lining Brake Pads....I'm thinking, more like Brake "Shoes" (those Curved Thing-Ah-Ma-Bobs...lol), as, back in the Good Old Days, when I was a Kid, My Dad also "Re-Lined" Brake Shoes (in the Basement, on the WorkBench) as well (fancy that eh)....My Dad would have (I'm assuming Purchased) the "Asbestos" Brake Lining "Strips" (or sections), and had a supply of the Proper "Rivets" that were used to Secure the Asbestos Linings to the Brake Shoes (those Curved Metal Thingies...lol). "Asbestos" (in my view), more then likely, is a "Silent Killer"....In that, I mean, if a Person "Inhales" the Asbestos "Dust" while Drilling, Sanding, or, creating Asbestos "Dust", in any way, shape, or form, that, when, He/She Breathes that "Dust", it will inevitably make its way inside the "Lungs"....The Nasty thing about Asbestos Dust, is that, when it Settles in the Lungs, it "Stays" there, what seems like Forever, and, Lung "Cancer", is usually the Result!...(from what I recall).....Not only that, some Brake "Lining" materials contain Asbestos, but, Clutch Friction Surfaces (Linings?) may also contain Asbestos as well. "NEVER!", (and Please), "Don't Breathe Any Asbestos Dust What-So-Ever!!!" (for the Reason/s just above these Words). Take (Extra) care, and, have a good one.

[@AnonYmous-lg6wi]

I've got a utility vehicle (JD Gator) that has some pretty edgy looking spark plugs. Runs real rough on idle, but it's fine once it gets going, purchased a borescope because I suspected excess carbon buildup. Can't remember if the plugs were the color of ash, or dark as midnight, I was working on 2 different things at the time. I'll post pictures tomorrow, any insight from you would be appreciated.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Anon Ymous............Thanks for watching............To avoid, any not wanted problems, with Your John Deere...Gator's "Ignition System" (aka, electrical circuit), a very good thing, to be doing, is to, try to purchase, the "Exact" Ignition System Parts, as in, "Exact, Brand and Part Number", that were "Originally Installed", by Your Gator's Manufacturer, that being, John Deere........................Whenever a Spark Plug's "Gap" (that's between the inner and outer electrodes), starts to get Too "LARGE", that, my Friend, will usually cause the Ignition Coil, to Work, all that much Harder, and, maybe to the point, of having the Ignition Coil, to become "Over-Heated", and maybe going Kaput...!!! (aka, non-functional anymore)...............Make sure, that You "Set the Gap", between, the Spark Plug's "Electrodes", to the "Specification", that the John Deere Company "Recommends", for Your Gator's "Exact" Engine/Model/Size, providing that, the Spark Plug, is able to be "Gap-ed", that is, as there are some Spark Plug Designs, that Are-Not Gap-able, just so, You are aware...................A good ole Saying, that I like to use, happens to be..."The Chain, is only as Strong, as its Weakest Link"...and I really like to apply that saying, to, Ignition System/Circuits...Why, You ask...???....cuz, if a Component/Part, that has the "Wrong Specification", gets Installed, in something like an older, points and condenser, type of Ignition System, the Result, might end-up being, a Weak Spark, between the Spark Plug's Electrodes, or, as bad as, having the Ignition Coil "Fry" itself, due to "Over-Heating", and then, the Engine, just goes Silent...!!!...Yikes...!!!..............................The "Cleaner", the Spark Plug, the "Better"...!!!....cuz sometimes, the Deposits, on the Electrode-End of the Spark Plug, can become Conductive, and the Ignition Coil's High Voltage, that is coming through the spark plug Wire/Lead, will probably, just Short to (electrical) Ground, and look Ma, "No Spark", what-so-ever, Between the Spark Plug's "Electrodes"...!!!...................Also, something like "Carbon Deposits", on the Electrode-End of a Spark Plug, can cause, a very bad condition, known as "Pre-Ignition", where-by, the, maybe...???...Glowing Carbon, causes the Compressed, Air/Fuel Mixture, to "Ignite", far too Soon, as the Piston is rising Up, in the engine's Cylinder, and "Engine Damage", it just might be...!!!..............Sometimes, "Ignition System" Problems, turn out to be, "Fuel System" related Problems, and visa-versa, oh, and, sometimes "Both", at the very same time...!!!....and, I hope not ...............If You care to, You can let me know, what Your John Deere...Gator's..."Model and Engine Type/Size"...happens to be, otherwise, I'll just be going on, a..."Wild-Goose-Chase"...!!!...lol....and...till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Thanks for your nice comment SuperFork....Which "Spring" are are you talking about?....For the time being, I'll probably stick to doing videos that will fit on my workbench....I might be adding a few more spark plug videos in the future sometime....I have more car/truck related videos on my Channel....If you would like to see them, ,just type...RockysRoadshow...in the KZbin search bar to see the list of videos that I have currently....Take care, and have a good one, my Friend!

[@RockysRoadshow]

...as I recall, an engine (domestic ones, Chevy, Chrysler, Ford, etc.), need to be at about 180 Degrees Farenheit, to run properly, when fully warmed up...That 180 degrees will probably give you the best horsepower/torque, as I see it, where-as, I've also seen thermostats as low as 160 Degrees Farenheit, all the way up to about 205 Degrees farenheit, (195 to 205 Deg. F.) for emission controlled engines...I hope what I have posted here can help you out...Take care, and have a good one, my Friend

[@RockysRoadshow]

...what is "Induction Crossfire" you say?...well...it's when two or more spark plug wires are close together, then there is a good chance that the high voltage traveling down one wire can get transferred into another wire if it is close enough...Never noticed this Phenomenon until I started having ignition miss-firing in my 4.3 Litre V-6 General Motors mini-van...That's the reason that you see those plastic multi-wire separators (clips) on the spark plug leads!...Take care, and have a good one

[@oibal60]

Superb explanation and set of examples!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Gerald's Videos............Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too............Most, if not all, of the (used) Spark Plugs, that You saw in this KZbin Video of mine, were out of engines, that had a Carburetor, mounted on an intake manifold (as opposed to, an engine, that is Fuel Injected), and, there probably won't be much, in the way of Deposits, Showing, on a set of used spark plugs, that were removed from, something like, a much Newer, fuel injected engine, that's usually controlled by, its/the vehicle's On-Board Computer, and the many Sensors and Actuators that go along with it, as long as, the Engine is running correctly, and as it should be............The Deposits, that are showing on a spark plug, or set of them, sure do help quite a bit, cuz, it's a really easy way, to see, just how good or bad, each of the engine's cylinders, are burning the air/fuel mixture, and/or, if there happens to be a problem or two, at the very same time, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@sisteryaya24]

This was great! Now all I have to do is find out where the spark plugs reside in my 1998 Rav4 engine. My car has an almost new battery but recently it doesn't start half the time. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't. I've also been picking up on a slight burning smell. I just had an oil change so I'm good there. Any suggestions before I take it to the mechanic. It's always better if I don't go in looking absolutely clueless about what's wrong. Thanks so much!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...YaYa..........Thanks for watching..........Burning Smell...???...!!!.........For "Safety's" sake...have someone, Find-Out, what the Cause, of that Burning Smell, actually "is"...!!!...cuz, it might have the potential, to Start a Vehicle "Fire"...!!!..................Some examples, of Vehicle Burning Smells, might be caused, by the following...........Electrical System (electrical short circuit, or electrical component failure...???), or maybe...Motor Oil, Automatic Transmission Fluid, or Gasoline (leaking onto, a hot exhaust system, pipe or component...???)...............You might find, that, the (used) Spark Plugs, that are removed from Your Rav-4's Engine, might, very well appear, to look some-what Cleaner, as compared to, most of the used, spark plug Samples, that You saw, in this Spark Plug Video of mine................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob....although Spark Plugs, have a lot to say, in respect to, how well (or not), an Engine Runs and Behaves, they, (the spark plugs), are usually, only, shall we say, one part of the Puzzle, as there are so many other, not so good things, that can be responsible, for the way, in which, a Vehicle's Engine, will (or maybe won't), Start, and Run as well.................There are usually "2-Things", that can be done, for Vehicles, that have Fuel Injected Engines, partnered-up with, an On-Board Computer, that is usually hidden away, somewhere, in that type of Vehicle................The Vehicle's "On-Board", Computer, can be Scanned, with a Scan Tool (kinda, looks like, a slightly Larger, hand held Calculator, some-what), for any Trouble Codes, that might be stored in, the On-Board Computer's Memory (did You See any Dashboard, Warning Lights, coming on at all...???)...............Sometimes, there can be, a Retail, Automotive Parts Store, that might "Scan", Your Rav-4's, On-Board Computer for..."FREE"...so, maybe, make a few phone calls, to the Automotive Parts Stores, where You Live, and ask the Folks there, if they will, for "FREE", Scan Your Rav-4's On-Board Computer, and, once the On-Board Computer gets Scanned, then You'll know, whether or not, there are any Trouble Codes, hiding inside, the On-Board Computer's Memory (by doing so first, it has been known, to save a lot of time, along with, not ending up, with a potential Headache...sometimes...maybe...???).................Then, the other Thing, is to have the "Fuel Pressure" Checked (probably...Not FREE...lol), with a Fuel Pressure Gauge, cuz, if the Fuel Pressure is-not with-in, the Specifications, for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine, the amount (Pressure and Volume), of Fuel (gasoline), being injected, by the (fuel) injectors, probably won't be correct, and Engine Running problems, and maybe, Engine Starting Problems, it just might, end up being...maybe...............Warning...!!!...Fuel Pressures, are usually, Very "HIGH", in Fuel Injected (gasoline) Engines, so, make sure, that, You Read Up On, and Know about, what You are Doing, before Working on the Fuel System...!!!...............It appears, that, the Spark Plugs, in Your Engine, are down in the cylinder head, quite Deep, so, Ur gonna need the required spark plug Socket, along with a fairly Long Extension (and Ratchet), so, You'll be able, to get, Way-Down-in-there, where the Spark Plugs are Hiding................If You do, end up changing the Spark Plugs Yourself, then, just Change, "One-at-ah-Time", so, all of the Spark Plug "Wires", get re-installed, back onto, the "Correct" Spark plug...!!!..............Make Sure, to Buy, and install, the "Exact...Correct" Spark Plugs for Your Rav-4's Engine...!!!.............The Spark Plugs, that the "Factory", installed in Your Engine, when it was Brand New, is Your Safest Bet, so, as to avoid, any things, that might go wrong.................If the Spark Plug's "Gap", is Gap-able (note...some types of spark plugs...Are-Not...Gap-able...!!!), then, check to see, with a spark plug Gap Gauge, that, the spark plug's "Gap" (that be, the Gap, or air space, that's between, the spark plug's Electrodes), is at, the Toyota/Factory recommended "Specification"..................Never let any Gap adjustment Tool, come in Contact, with the spark plug's Center Electrode, so as not to Damage it...!!!..............Here's something for Ya...........Do a Search on the Internet, for a Website, that has a Toyota, and/or, 1998 Rav-4..."Forum"...on it. where You will be able to ask any Questions, that You might have, about Your Vehicle...............Some Folks, that are on some of those "Forums", can probably Change, the Rav-4's spark plugs, in Their Sleep...!!!....well, maybe not quite...lol................It's probably a very good idea, and Safer as well, to Research, and Learn-about, what-ever, You might, consider Working on, when it comes to Your Rav-4, cuz, there are lots, did I say LOTS, of Safety-Related things, to be Aware of, so You won't end up Hurting Yourself...maybe....and I hope not.......and.......till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@sisteryaya24]

Rocky you are so very generous to give me all of that information regarding my car starting issues! Thank you for taking the time and energy to share all of this with me. I will definitely take heed and have these things checked out. I've had lots of oxygen sensor issues in the past so it may be something related to the fuel pressure, who knows. There have been no dashboard indicators lighting up. At least I have somewhere to begin and I can ask intelligent questions when speaking with a mechanic. I think it's time for me to let go of my Rav4 friend after I get it fixed this time around. She has served me well since 1998. Again, you're awesome!! Thanks so much!

[@nirmalsamuel5156]

Thank you - never seen such bad plugs on my cars. I wonder how many miles they have run these plugs to get these bad (the first few bad ones).

[@RockysRoadshow]

Nirmal Samuel Greetings Nirmal Samuel....You're welcome, and, Thanks for watching, and for Your comment as well.........................................The reason, that You, (and probably Others as well), were seeing, the, shall we say..."More then Expected"..."Deposits"...on most the Spark Plugs, that I used as "Movie Props", in this KZbin Video of mine, was more then likely, due to most of them, coming out of Engines that had "Carburetors" on them, and, some of them, had "Lower Output Voltage Ignition Systems" on them as well.............................................Also, most of these Engines, for the most part, had quite "Low, Compression Ratios", in about the 8.5 to 1 Compression Ratio area................................................Also, some of the Engines didn't have much in the way of "Ignition Advance", due to the Engineers/Designers, having to meet, the Government's "Emission Standards", back in that time period..................................As far as I recall, most of the Mileage/Kilometer-age, that Accumulated on most of these Spark Plugs, in this Video, were acquired, traveling at "City Speeds", that made for, quite a bit of "Idling at Stop Lights & Stop Signs", as opposed to, Traveling at much Higher Speeds, and, shall we say..."To Blow-Out the Cob-Webs" (lol, that's what I heard an older Gentleman saying, a while back, when He would take his Car, out on the Highway/Freeway, to Clean-Out His Engine!)........................................You see my Friend, on the Older, "Non-Computerized" Engines, that had Carburetors on them, would usually have Spark Plugs, that would usually stay much "Cleaner" (aka, less deposits on them), if the Vehicle's Engine was Running at Higher RPM's (Revolutions Per Minute), consistently, non-stop (well at least, until the Need for some more Gasoline, Food, and a Washroom break, demanded, that is!...lol), traveling down a Highway at 50 Miles Per Hour/80 Kilometers per Hour, there-abouts, and by just Cruzin' along, the Air/Fuel Mixture (Ratio), would usually be quite Lean, in around that Magic 14.7 to 1 Air/Fuel Ratio, give or take a bit, and the Ignition System's, "Spark Advance" would Increase as well, making for a fairly "Clean Running Engine", that also got, much "Better" Mileage/Kilometer-age, then the lousy Mileage/Kilometer-age, that the same vehicle was getting, sitting for quite a bit of time, in the "City", at "Red Lights & Stop Signs", Not Moving at all, and getting..."Zero" Miles per Gallon, or, "Zero" Kilometers per Liter...!!!...lol.............................................The more Modern Day, "Computerized Engine Management Systems", as compared to the Older, "Non-Computerized" Ones, do, for the most part, make for Engines, that Run quite a bit Cleaner, mostly due the the..."Amount of Computations"...that the Vehicle's "On-Board-Computer" is capable of doing, as well as, doing all of those Computations, at "Blazing Fast Speeds", so much so, that It'll make Yur Head Spin...!!!...lol...................................................I should probably end, here and now, or, I just might be tempted, to go..."On & On"...and If I did, It might end up..."Be-in a Book"...!!!...lol.....................................................My above comments, are, shall we say..."The Tip of the Ice-Berg"...when it comes to, the Incredible amount of..."Engineering and Design"...along with, the..."Very Long List of Parts & Pieces"....that made-up, and, make-up, the..."Automobiles"...of the..."Past"..."Present"...and probably, the..."Future"...as well..........................Till next time..................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Albinus81....Thanks for your comment, and great observation when reading your spark plugs with the various fuels used!....About the only thing that I may have seen, was something called "MMT", probably something that replaced Lead (led) as an anti-knock additive, which leaves a red-ish/brown color on the plugs....As long as your engine does not knock or ping and runs well, then all is good....Keep an eye on the Gap-Growth (electrode erosion)...Take care, and have a good one, my Friend

[@todddoyle3827]

Thank you Rocky. After watching your video and reading some of the comments, I have decided that my 1970 429 is running a bit lean with the newly installed Holley 600. It has been running very nicely but a plug check yesterday showed a more white colour that what you describe as a good colour. Planning to get the next jet size up to determine if that will improve the mixture to a more healthy level. About how many miles should I drive them before checking again?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Todd Doyle.............You're welcome, and Thanks for watching.............Although, this KZbin Video's Thumbnail Picture, that's showing the Spark Plug, with that, shall we say, Tan colored Deposit on it, well, it might show up, or, it might not, say what...???................There can be a few variables, that can, and might be responsible for, the Deposits, that actually show-up, and get stuck-to, a spark plug, that came out of a running engine..................Some Folks, are sayin' that, there probably won't be very many Deposits showing on a spark plug, that came out of an engine, that was burning Gasoline with Ethanol (aka, Alcohol, sometimes made from Corn, possibly), in its Blend.......................Interesting that, as this Video's Spark Plug/Thumbnail Picture, that has that (nice...???...lol), Tan Colored "Deposit" on it, as far as I recall, was burning, 87 Octane (R+M Divided by 2, Rating Method), in a V-8 Engine, that had, about 8.5 to 1 Compression Ratio, and the Gasoline, in the gas tank (at the time), had about 10% Ethanol in its Blend (please note, that, some Gas Pumps around here, had some words on them, something along the lines of...May Contain Up-To 10% Ethanol...???...kinda misleading huh), and, makes me wonder, why some of those Folks, out there (in Cyber-Land...lol), were sayin' that, there probably won't be, much in the way of, any Deposits showing-up, on the spark plugs...???....................Be Careful, and never go Too Lean, of an Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, while doing a WOT/Wide Open Throttle run, cuz, that's usually when, the Nastiest Damage (Destruction...???), to just about any gasoline burning Engine, will usually Happen...!!!...and I hope not....................Check to see, just What...???...the Gasoline, that You put in Your Vehicle's Gas Tank..."Actually is"...???...and, if it has any "Ethanol" in its Blend, what is the %-age (Percent-age)...???...................Sometimes, when an Engine is running Too Lean, of an Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, while just Cruising along, at not too fast of a speed, there can be times, where You might feel a Lean Surge, where-by, the Vehicle, will kinda be Surging/Bucking Back and forth, and sometimes, too much Ignition Timing Advance, might cause the, some-what, same thing as well, just so You know....................Probably, the Safest Way, to "Monitor" the Air/Fuel Ratio (mixture), while Driving like Granny, or a Mad-Man...lol...is to install a "Wide Band Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge", (having a Wide Band Oxygen Sensor, installed in the Exhaust System), that way, You'll be able to See, in real time, just what...???...Your Carburetor, is Feeding Your Engine, Air/Fuel Ratio-wise, at All Speeds and Loads, just to keep the Engine Safe, and if the Carb is Dialed-in real Good, some Newly-Found Performance, might be noticed (seat of the pants method...lol), and, not only that, but maybe, some much Better Fuel Economy, might show-up as well, but Only, if You keep Your Lumber-Jack Boot, from Mashing, the Gas Pedal to the Floorboard...!!!...lol...................I usually Run the Engine, with New Spark Plugs, for about 100 Miles or more (if the Engine Behaves-itself, that is), cuz, I figure that, that will give ample engine running time, to allow some Deposits, to shall we say, "Cling-On" (Star Trek...???...lol) "to", the electrode-end of the Spark Plug/s in question......................From what I recall, Holley "Jets" are Flow-Rated, and the Orifice/Hole Size, can vary a bit as well....................Hmmmmm...I think, that I recall seein', that, when the Holley Jet Size, was about, what was it now...maybe, a Number 70 or Smaller, the Orifice/Hole Size, was with-in, about a Thousandths or Two, of an Inch, for each Step, in Jet Size...where as...it seems the LARGER than, about Number 70, the Jet Size Orifice/Hole Size, Changes a Lot More, for each step, in Jet Size...!!!...so pay Close Attention, when-ever Changing any of those Jets......................The Older Distributor Ignition Systems, usually didn't Output, oh, shall we say, as Intense, of a Secondary High Voltage, out of the Ignition Coil, especially-so, on something like, the good ole Points and Condenser Distributors, that controlled, the usually, Remotely mounted Ignition Coil , that were with Us, till about 1974 there-abouts, and might make-for, some extra Deposits, showing-up, as opposed-to, the Newer, Higher Output Ignition Systems, that, just might result-in, having, some-what Cleaner looking spark plugs...maybe...???.......................Damn, Your 1970...429, just reminded me of something.................Some years ago, a Friend of mine, as I recall, had about the same Year, and it was probably a Torino, and He was sayin', about having Bad Front Brakes, so, I told Him to bring his Car, over to my place, and that I'd have a look at it, for Him.....................Well, once the Car's front end was jacked-up, and the wheels were removed...Thar-"it"-Was...and it was the right front Disc Brake Rotor, along with its Buddy, the Disc Brake Pad, that was probably responsible for, that, shall we say "Ginding Noise"...and I've never, Ever SEEN, a (disc brake) "Rotor", that had a surface finish, that looked, just like a LARGE piece of Corrigated Cardboard, with the outer skins removed (You know, that)..."WAVE-EE"...Design, that is seen, when You look into a piece of Corrigated Cardboard...???...Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...it appears, that the "Rivets", once there wasn't enough Friction Material left, to do the Stoppin', then, those Exposed Rivets, Machined those quite Impressive "GROOVES", much like a Metal Lathe, would be capable of doin' alright, and needless to say, that, a..."New Disc Brake Rotor"...had to be added to the Repair List...!!!...lol.....................Now then, if You happen to have any questions or concerns at all, just give me a shout, and...........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@todddoyle3827]

Thanks Rocky. I have realized that the power valve in the holley is most likely on the undersized side for my engine. Idling I have 18inch of vacuum. My reading suggests that a correct power valve would be 9.5 and as high as 15.5 and I currently have a 6.5. Funny how everyone suggests 600 holley was the answer to everything wrong with the car. Sort of like saying a dog will give you more exercise. The wrong dog will lay around all day the right dog will have you walking all day. What I mean is, a Holley 600 is just a start, next there is power valve selection, jet selection, accelerator pump spring selection, gapping accelerator pump, secondary spring tension etc etc.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Todd Doyle.................While the Engine running, the Power Valve Rating (measured in inches of Mercury, or Hg), is usually, when the Power Valve will start to Open, once the Engine's Intake Manifold's Vacuum, Drops Down-to, or Below, the Power Valve's (vacuum...Hg) Rating, and will stay Open...until...the Vacuum Level, goes Higher, then, that of the Power Valve's (Hg) Rating, when it will usually Close, once again.................The Power Valve (sometimes, called an Economizer), is only, a, shall we say, Flood Gate, if You will, cuz, there's usually a channel (aka, passageway), that will usually have a calibrated Restriction in it, that will actually Control/Regulate, the amount of Additional Fuel/Gasoline, that gets added-to, whatever, is already being provided, by the Fuel (gasoline) Jets, while just, let's say, just cruising along, at not too fast of a speed...................If the power valve comes in too late, that's not so good for the engine, while under load, and if it comes in too early, then, it's usually, just a waste of gasoline, that really isn't needed.................The Earlier Holley Carbs, can sometimes, have their power valve diaphragms Ruined, because of a fairly powerful Backfire (through the carb), and, if it does happen, then, the Carb will usually be, running way Too Rich (air/fuel ratio)...unless, it is equipped with, shall we say, Anti-Backfire Protection, probably like, the newer models might have......................If Your 1970 429, still has, probably the Original "Points and Condenser Distributor", then, hopefully, it has been Tuned Up, and well Maintained, cuz, if not, that in itself, can be responsible for, a Not so good (use Your Own Bad Word here...lol) Running Engine...

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Todd Doyle...(continuing on now)...Make Sure that, Your Distributor is in Excellent Shape, and Your Ignition Timing is with in Specifications as well..................Also, keep the rest of Your Ignition System in really good shape as well, cuz, all it takes is something as small, as a not so good wiring connection, to mess things up....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, if enough time is spent, and it's done right, just about any good carb out there, has the potential of really working well...hopefully................If and when, You might not want to tinker with Ur Holley anymore, then, here's something, that You might want to check out...................Demon (carb company), has the "Street Demon Carburetor", that should be available in, oh, 625 and 750 CFM/Cubic Feet per Minute flow rating....................They both, are Spread Bore Carbs, having smaller primary throttle bores, and Larger secondary throttle bores (Goggle Valve...!!!), and they should work on most types of intake manifolds as well..................If You have an Automatic Transmission, check for, both the Throttle Linkage, and if applicable, the Auto Trans Linkage (at the Carb), if applicable (or maybe none, cuz of a Vacuum Modulator, perhaps...???)..................I've heard nothing but "Good", about the Street Demon Carb.................Once this Carb is bolted to the intake manifold, it's just usually, some rather Simple Adjustments, that, might be needed, if, at all...................Thumb screw for the Idle Speed...2 Idle Mixture Screws, at the front of the carb, and, there's the Secondary Air Valve (Flap...lol), Torsional Wind Up Spring adjustment...................Quite a few Guys, are saying, after it's bolted on, and, once the Throttle Linkage/Transmission Linkage, is good to go, that, it's about the Best Carb (running wise), right out of the Box...!!!...how about that...................So then, whatever way, that You choose to go, and, if You have any questions or concerns at all, just give me a shout, and I'll do what I can, to help You out, and........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

...there is something that it might also be, considering that you had mentioned that you are running the "hottest" spark plug available....If you have a liquid cooled engine, then, it could very well be that your engine isn't even getting hot enough to burn the air/fuel mixture properly....If your engine has a radiator, and perhaps a thermostat, then it might be that the engine is being over-cooled because of a bad thermostat or whatever controls the actual volume of coolant flow....(con't)...

[@RockysRoadshow]

Hello once again, Ruffyatutube....Upon reading your request for a new video addressing the different designs of spark plugs, I will seriously consider, and perhaps, make a video with my thoughts, as to the importance of selecting the correct spark plug for a given application...For starters, see who makes the exact same spark plug for your vehicle by different brand names, and compare prices to see what the difference might be...It is extremely important to use the correct spark plugs...(con't)

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Ruffyatutube....You are welcome my Friend, and thanks for taking the time to post your great comment, that I really appreciate....I'm not sure why, but when I look at some of the used parts that I tend to keep around here, all I have to do, is look at just about any of those used parts, and for the most part, my mind goes into, shall we say, "Total Recall!" (and no, I'm not Arnold S. as in the movie with that same title! lol)....Take care, and have a good one...

[@jonstone6923]

I finally got dad's truck fixed. I completely went against your suggestion the whole time, simple things first. I found one of the spark plug wire insulation torn at the plug connection. Glad that's solved now I have to get his heat fixed. I'm pretty sure that's simple, the water flows both ways through heater core or it did last time I done that. I'm thinking air actuator. I will check temperature at both hoses when truck gets good and hot if both have somewhat equal temp I think heater core can be eliminated. Any thoughts on that? I'll not avoid the simplest things this time lol!

[@RockysRoadshow]

Jon Stone Greetings Jon Stone....Good to hear from You again my Friend, and..."Congratulations"...for solving at least "One of the Problems" so far, but, as we all know, there's still some more "Fun" to be had, well, perhaps it's just "Fun", if You're not the Guy or Gal, tryin' to figure out, "What's Cauzin' the Remaining Problems", that is (dare I lol at this point in time...???...geeze, maybe I better not, just in case Someone throws a "Monkey Wrench" at "Me"..!!!...lol)................................................Well, I'd say, that You are probably asking the right Guy (Me, that is), about, what might just be Causing a "Low Heat Output" from a Vehicle's "Heater and Defroster, Outlet Vents/Openings", that are in, or under, the Vehicle's "Dash-Board", and maybe, if so equipped, a "Rear Heater Core/Blower Unit", as well perhaps.............................................First off, just in case I forget, I should mention, to be Watching-Out for..."Control"...Levers, Cables, Hand Operated Cable, and Vacuum Control Levers/Switches, Vacuum Units & Vacuum Hoses, Air Doors, that Divert, or Change the Path-Taken, of the Incoming Cold Air, that Travels, either Through, or Around the Heater Core itself ...that, can be quite "Tricky", especially, if these "Parts & Pieces" are, shall we say..."Tied-In" with a Vehicle's..."Air Conditioning System's Controls" as well, if so equipped.....................Maybe, try moving the "Heat"..."Defrost"..."Air Conditioning"..."Control Levers/Switches...on the Vehicle's Dashboard, or where-ever they happen to be, and Observe, weather or not, any of the "Actuating Units"...be "Them"...Activated by "Cables or Vacuum Hoses"...actually..."Activate"..."Levers"...on the..."Actuating Units"...that You are able to easily "See", actually "Move to a Different Position".................................................I have "2" very good Examples for You, and how I "Finally"...lol...Fixed these..."Low or No-Heat Problems"...that I had a few years ago...................................................First Example was, "Very Little Heat", was coming out of the Heater or Defrost Vents/Openings............................................Both Heater Core "Inlet and Outlet" Hoses were "Good-n-Hot", so, seeing as how, that there Heater Core was quite old, and, I had no idea, on just what the previous Owners did, in respect to the "Changing" the Coolant (anti-freeze & water mixture) at the required Intervals, I decided to Install a Brand New Heater Core, as I was Thinkin'..."That Otta Fix It"...but..."Still No Damn Heat"...!!!................................................Turned out to be a..."Cable"...that "Was Not"..."Moving the Air Door"...that was supposed to..."Divert/Send", the Outside Cold Incoming Air, "Through the Heater Core"...but, Instead..."The Incoming Cold Air"..."Was Diverted/Sent"..."AROUND"...the..."Heater Core"...and..."Yes-Sir-ee-Bob"...I kinda went from having "Frost-Bitten-Toes"...to..."Nice-n-Toasty"..."Toes...Feet & Legs too"...!!!...lol...................................................The "Heater Core", that came out of that 1979 Chevy Van (not having air conditioning), can actually be "Seen", in that KZbin "Video" of mine, where I show Folks, How "They" Work, using Boiling Kettle water, and a few Hoses, and having a small personal Fan, blowing Air through it, along with a Thermometer, to show the Temperature Rise...........................................Example number "2", happens to be, a Mid-1990's GMC or Chevy Mini-Van, that had a..."Quite Low, Heater & Defroster, Heat Output"...........................................Seeing as how the Inlet and Outlet Heater Hoses, were very Hot, I decided to Yank the Lower Dashboard apart, so that I could get at the "Heater Core" (and yes this vehicle Did-Have Air Conditioning)..........................................Once I managed to get up close and personal, with, that there "Heater Core", I had the Engine running, and up to Operating Temperature..."Still, very Little Heat"...could be Felt by my Hand, with the "Fan On", and also, same thing, no matter where, I "Set the Control Levers" on the "Dash-Board" as well...!!!......................................Hmmmmm....so, now what...???..............................................There was an "H-Shaped, Plastic Valve"....that was..."Controlled by a Vacuum Hose"...so, I Drained the Coolant, Down about Half-Way, then, I "Removed", that there "Plastic-"H"-Shaped Valve", from the "4" Hoses, that were Connected to "IT"...and..."Guess What"...???......................When I looked "Into" the, shall we say, Plastic "Pipes", In that there "Plastic-"H"-Shaped Valve"...there was a..."Broken Piece of Plastic, that had an Orange Colored Seal/Cup-like, round rubber-like Pad"...that was, as I see it, supposed to be, a "Vacuum Unit, Controlled...Arm, with an Orange -rubber-like Seal-Pad"...that was, when "Not Broken", to either "Send Hot Coolant"..."Through the Heater Core"...or...in "Its Other Position"..."Get Diverted/Re-Directed"...Through that Center Part of the Letter "H", "Plastic Pipe", and back Through the "Return Heater Hose"..."Without Going Into the Heater Core's Hose/Pipe"...!!!.............................................Even though that "Broken Arm/Valve"..."Was Not Totally Blocking the Hot Coolant Flow"...it kinda looks like, that "Water Pump" would rather be "Pumping the Hot Coolant the Easiest Way", which looked to me, to just "Double Back"...Through the..."Center Portion" of, that there Plastic "H"-Vacuum Controlled...I want Heat Now, or, No, I Don't want Heat Now...damn, Dollar Store Quality "Plastic, H-Shaped, Hot Coolant Control Valve"...!!!...lol...Junk I say...In my Garage, sitting on a shelf, I have a quite old, Used, maybe 1960's?, Vacuum Operated, Single Hose, "Brass Valve", All-Metal, with the Exception of the internal Rubber actuating Diaphragm, and I'm thinkin', it might be out of a Ford Car, that still works Great...!!!........................................So then, what about that "Wimpy"..."Broken"..."Plastic..."H-Shaped, Hot Coolant Control Valve"...well, I told "It"..."Where To Go"...!!!...lol...and, what I did, to actually give me "Heat", like You wouldn't believe, was, I measured for, the "Size and Length" of..."2"-Pieces of "Metal Pipe", and I basically just..."Joined the Rubber Inlet Hose, to the Other Rubber Inlet Hose"...and the..."Rubber Outlet Hose, to the Other Rubber Outlet Hose"...with those "2"-Metal Pipes, and "4"-Hose Clamps...and I "Safety Wired", Each Pair of Hose Clamps Together, for Safety Reasons, because of the Cooling System's "Pressure"...and..."Hot Coolant"...as well...!!!...and like I was sayin'..."Hole-ee-Gwalk-ah-Moe-lee"...in "Winter", I'm as..."Snug-as-ah-Bug-in-ah-Rug"...and then some...!!!...lol.........................................Yes-in-deed-elly-lee-do...maybe too much "Heat" now, as I've noticed the "Reason", for that Plastic "H"-Shaped Valve, was to "Stop the Flow of Hot Coolant through the Heater Core"...During "SUMMER"...where-by...Adding "More Heat", over and above, that of which, that "Big Ball of Fire in the Sky" (aka, our Sun) Provides, can at times, make me Sweat "More" then I have to...!!!...lol.....................................(Gears in my Head, are just-ah-Turnin', and I'm Thinkin')...maybe, I will be "Installing a Hot Coolant "Shut-Off" Valve, in one of the Heater Hoses, that leads to the Heater Core, so, I Don't Sweat so Much, in the "Summer-Time"...hell of an Idea I say, and maybe, just maybe, I might try, and Use that nice...Old and Worthy..."Brass"..."Hot Coolant, Heater Hose to the Heater Core, Shut-Off Valve"...that needs a "New Home" anyways...???....................................................All-righty then, that's about it for my "Heated Adventures" for the time be-in, and I hope, some of what I was sayin' above, will somewhat, be able to help You out, with goin' on a, shall we say..."Heat" related "Safari"................................Good Luck, oh and..."Watch-Out" for..."Lions...Tigers...and Bears"...oh my...lol............................................Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Paul Phillips....I hope that you Found the Reply to your Comment, on Your KZbin Channel (that I Posted there), due to my "Not-Seeing" the Word "Reply" Under the Comment that you left Here (on my Spark Plug Video)....For Other Folks, I will mention some things about the Questions that you (Paul), left here, in your Comment....As for the Spark Plug in my Video, that shows that "Major" Accumulation of "Deposit/Deposits" between the Inner, and Outer Electrode, was, what I figured to be, an Oil Burning Problem. I was going through about "1" Quart, or, "1" Litre of Motor Oil, in about 500 Miles, or, 800? Kilometers, while I was driving at Highway/Freeway Speed, (but, not quite "Autobahn" Speeds!...lol)....More like the Speed that I was allowed to travel at, without the having the "Police" in "Hot Pursuit" (like I was driving that there Trans-Am, in the Movie, "Smokey and the Bandit!"...lol). Yes-Siree-Bob, that there Major "Hitch-Hiking" Deposit Accumulation, was indeed on my Number "6" Spark Plug, that was the "Original Factory Installed" (set of) Spark Plugs on my (then) New 400 Cubic Inch (6.6 Litre, I think?) Small Block Chevy (Chevrolet) V-8 Engine. Well, I figured that some Motor Oil was making its way into Number "6" Cylinder Via, either, Oil Control Rings, or, maybe, a Bad Valve Stem "Seal/Seals" (there are "2" Valve Stem "Seals" per Cylinder....One on the Intake Valve Stem, and, One on the Exhaust Valve Stem). Hmmmmm, (just thinking eh...), that there "Is" the "Possibility" that the "P.C.V." (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System, might (could be) the "Culprit?"....The PCV Valve (sometimes), just might get "Stuck" (just a wee bit?) in the "Open" Position, and, that can cause Too Much "Air-Flow" (due to Manifold Vacuum), that may, very well be "Inhaling" (with too much Force), any "Blow-By" that may be present in the Lower Crankcase of, that there (or is it This Here?...lol), 400 Cubic Inch Small Block V-8 Engine...(?). The only "Fluid" Level "Drop" (as in, "Over-Consumption" of Fluid, or Fluids), happened to be the, "Too fast of a Drop, of my Engines Oil "Level", that was showing on the Engines, Oil Checking "Dipstick", and, (what I think was), "Motor Oil Burning", due to my V-8's (not Panic-ing) slight "Over-Use" of Motor Oil in the amount of Miles/Kilometers Traveled. The Coolant (Water and Anti-Freeze mixture) Level was always up to where it should be, without any Leaks, etc. The so called "Lime-Scale" that Paul had mentioned, just might be Paul's Engine Burning some Coolant (water and anti-freeze mixture) perhaps? The "White-ish-Lime-Like-Stuff" that you see on the Spark Plug in This (My) Video, "Was-Not" on the Spark Plug when (at the time), I took the/those Spark Plugs out of my Engine....That "White-ish-Stuff" on My Videos Spark Plug was probably due to being in "Storage", for quite a few Years. For all of you Folks out there, "Keep-an Eye" on your Vehicles "Fluid-Levels!!!" If, and when, you happen to See/Observe any of Your Vehicles "Fluid Levels" being "Consumed", or, "Dropping", at a "Faster-then-Normal-Rate", have the "Problem" Looked at "Right-Away!!!" Now, about "Fuel Additives"....Try to find out, All that You Can, about the Gasoline, that You Buy (Purchase), where "You" Live, as, there are "Different-Formulations-World-Wide!" There are quite a few things that the Gasoline Refiners/Producers can add into their Gasoline "Blends". Some, if not, most, Gasoline Companies are adding in "Ethanol" (alcohol) to their Gasoline (Blends). There are also things like "Oxygenates", and, fuel system Cleaners (well, from what I have heard in the past anyways). If you have a Fuel Injected vehicle, you might not even Notice any Difference, in the way that your Vehicle Runs/Performs with Todays Gasoline (Gasoline Blend, usually with Ethanol in it), whereas, with the Experience that I'm having, and, have had in the past, while "Tuning" Carburetors, (the Carburetors without a feedback system) that "Can't" Adjust themselves like, Fuel Injected Engines Can, I get into a "Close, and Personal" Relationship with the way that the Current Gasoline (Blend) makes the Carburetors that I "Tune", or Work On, "In-Need"of Adjustments, and at times, "Re-Jetting" (as in, change the Fuel Jets, usually to a LARGER Size), to "Compensate" for all of that there "Al-Chem-Ah-Haul" (Ethanol) that happens to be Added to the Gasoline "Blends" these Days. Ok now, I gotta go, cuz...It's..."COFFEE TIME!!!" Take care Paul, and, all of you Other Folks out there as well, and to All, be Safe, and, have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

+gabigowriel Greetings gabigowriel....Thanks for watching...................Well, if the Engine is Running and Performing really good, then, I'd say, that, You probably got a good deal, if You didn't pay too much for it, that is...lol........................I had a look around, and, I didn't see any Spark Plugs, that had, as You were sayin', 3 Pins (Outer Electrodes?), and 1 center one........................I only saw, the more common type, of Spark Plug, for Your 3 Cylinder Engine, having only "1" Side Electrode.....Do all 3 Spark Plugs, look about the same...Deposit-wise....as well as, the amount of Electrode/s Wear/electrical Erosion...???.....................If and when-ever, doing a Tune-Up on Your Engine, try to find the Exact Same Spark Plugs, that were Installed in Your Engine, by the Vehicle's Manufacturer, when Your Vehicle was Brand New, to avoid, any un-needed problems..........................If the factory Original Spark Plugs are Gap-able, make sure, that, the Gap between the spark plug's Electrodes, are Set to the Vehicle Manufacturer's, Gap "Specifications" (might be measured in Millimeters or Inches)..............................Have all of the Maintenance done, as in, any Parts, that have to be Replaced, at the Mileage/Kilometer-age, or Time Interval, that the Vehicle Manufacturer Recommends, cuz, something as simple, as a Dirty Air Filter, can make a Carburetor, run, a Richer than wanted, Air/Fuel "Ratio" (as in, too much Gasoline, for the amount of Air, in the Air/Fuel Mixture), due to Restricted Air Flow, through that Dirty Air Filter, and the end result, is usually, Low Gas Mileage, and wasting Money, on Gasoline, that really isn't needed.....................Usually, if just about any Spark Plug, starts Miss-Firing, due to an Ignition Related, or, Fuel Related Problem, while the Engine is up to Operating Temperature, and, just Cruzin' along, You'll probably Notice it, most times, as the Engine, probably, won't be Running all that Smoothly, and like it should be..................Try to get a hold of, a Factory, or After-Market, Chassis (pronounced Chass-ee) Service Manual, for Your Exact Vehicle and Engine, that way, You'll be able to Read about/see Pictures, on, how to Fix and Maintain, Your Newly Acquired "Ride" (aka, Automobile...lol).................Good luck, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@thomastoucheque6241]

if you want to make a good time and consideration for any inconvenience this might be better for you

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Thomas Toucheque............Thanks for watching..............I'm not sure, as to what You mean, in the comment that You posted...???....and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...gabigowriel...............Congratulations, for Buying Urself, a Present...!!!...lol................BMW's, as far as I know, are of good quality.................Enjoy Your "Beem-er", for as long as "it" will Behave itself...lol...cuz, sooner or later (preferably later), it will probably develop a Hick-up or two, that will have to be tended to...Yikes...!!!...lol...and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...gabigowriel..................Oh oh...sounds like Someone is getting "Power Hungry"...!!!...lol.................Just remember now..."it takes Fuel, to make Horsepower"...!!!...pretty much meaning, that, Your..."Fuel Economy"...will probably, be..."Better"...with the..."smaller ENGINE...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol...oh and, when it comes right down to it, well..."it's Your Choice after all"...enjoy....and......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

...I had both, a Thermoquad, and a 2-barrel-Rochester carb start acting up for no apparent reason....Sometimes they just decide to plug up, especially in the idle circuit....Crusty spark plugs?....Re-place them lately?....Rich running might be your float/floats sinking, causing a high fuel level in your float bowl/bowls....Hesitation from accelerating?....Accelerator pump maybe?....Rebuild your carburetor lately?....Let me know what you have there, thanks....Take care, my Friend...

[@onsturn]

How many miles should I put on a set of new plugs before I take them out to read them? Thx

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Mitch.........Thanks for watching.........If your vehicle is about 1996 or newer, then, the vehicle's onboard computer, will usually detect a misfire, in one or more, of the engine's cylinders, and, will usually be storing a trouble code, in the vehicle's, on board computer's memory, that can be extracted and read with, a scan tool (usually, looks kinda like, a slightly larger hand held calculator).........No misfire codes, usually means that, the spark plugs are firing alright..........If it's an older vehicle, then, drive around at different speeds, while cruising along, and also, while accelerating quite hard (legally...!!!)...for about, oh, 300 Miles, or a bit more, should be alright (no set rule here, it's just a matter of, letting the engine run, for a long enough time, so there will be some deposits showing up, on the spark plug, so you can see them easily).........Make sure that, the spark plug's "heat range" is correct, for your "exact" engine, and also, make sure that, the "gap" (between the two electrodes), is at, the specified (gap) size too, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@lisagooch3740]

Hi, Mr. Rocky. So my van has stopped starting altogether. Now, it doesn't even click when turning key. So, I'm at a shop who said they cleaned all corrosion from wires leading to starter & said last resort was to replace starter, since still no power. They predicted an hour to finish. Several hrs passed, now saying they tried 2 different starters & neither got it going. Need to keep my van to check more thoroughly. Does this sound like alternator since the last time I held key all the way longer than a minute; no start, then a soft "poot" sound, then a little white smoke blew from under hood?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Lisa Gooch...…….That white smoke, might be a bad electrical connection, that might have arced (sparked), which can produce a lot of heat, where it happened (melted wire insulation...???), well, if it was an electrical problem, that is (the "smell", of something, that went wrong with a vehicle, sure helps me a lot, but, I can't smell anything, from where I am...!!!...lol)..........The alternator, is the component, that keeps the battery charged-up, when the engine is running...……..A 12-volt, fully charged-up battery, on its own, I find, is at about 12.6 volts, that I see on my multi-meter...……..Once the engine is running, I will then, usually see about 14.5 volts there-abouts (depending on the vehicle, then, it could be, in the higher 13 volts range, up to, about the mid, 14-ish volts, and, when it's vey cold, think in terms of snow & ice, then, it might get, as high as, oh, about 15 volts sometimes, when the engine is running).........There are a few things, that can cause engine starting problems alright...……..To "crank" (spin) the engine over (before it starts running on its own), then, the battery has to be in very good shape (for me, that will usually be, a battery, that's not older than, about 5 years old), and, it has to also be, "fully" charged up as well...………The (electric) starter motor, has to be in good condition as well...……..Not sure, about your particular mini-van, but, there might be, an (electrical) "relay" (might look like, a little black plastic box, somewhat, that has electrical contacts, hiding inside of it), that is in, the starting system's, electrical circuit, that has to be working properly, or, a no start, it just might be...……..Some vehicles (not sure about yours), might not crank over, until the vehicle's on-board computer, checks, to see if everything is good or not, before, shall we say, allowing, the engine to crank over and start..........All electrical wiring, and the ignition switch, have to be working properly too...…….There might be, what is called, a "neutral/safety starting switch", that prevents the engine, from being cranked-over, unless the automatic transmission's, gear selector, is placed in "Park or Neutral", and, sometimes these switches go bad, and, this switch is in there, so Ya don't have the engine crank, or, crank and start running, when the auto-transmission, is "in-Gear"...!!! (just imagine the excitement, if that, were to ever happen...!!!...lol).........A "flooded" engine, (flooded with too much gasoline), being, on the inside of, the engine's combustion chambers, can cause, what is known as hydro-locking, which will keep the engine from turning over, even with, the world's best battery, and (electrical) starter motor...!!!...(true, that)...so, keep that in mind, just in case...(if I suspect hydro-locking, then, I usually, remove all of the spark plugs, to see, if the engine, will then, crank over, freely at all...???)…(same thing can be done, on lawnmowers, weed-whackers, chain saws...etc.)...oh, and, only do the cranking test for a very short time, because, the ignition coil or coils, as the case may be, will over-work themselves, and burn out, "unless", they are hooked up to the spark plugs, and, the spark plugs, are connected to an (electrical) ground source...and...there is very high voltage here, so, don't touch anything...!!!...oh, and also, it's a very good (safety) idea, to have a fire extinguisher nearby, just in case...……..That hydro-locking, can be caused by, a fuel injection system, that's not working properly, as well as, an ignition system, that won't be producing, a nice strong "spark", between the spark plug's two electrodes, just so Ya know...…….If I didn't already mention, the "Rockauto" website, head over there, and do a look up, on your exact mini-van...…….That website, is usually, really good, for showing a lot of pictures, of the parts, that are on your mini-van...enjoy...........Good luck, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@WesselLemmer]

I have a 318 with a old stromberg carb so its perfect thanks. I have a question if i may, How long should i run new plugs before i start seeing these deposits and analyse conditions in the combustion chamber.

[@golavish]

Thank you so much! I have a car that was saying system is too rich, but on observing checking out the spark plugs with this, is seems to be running lean! Now I know I may have problems with the O2 sensor giving wrong info.

[@RockysRoadshow]

+golavish Greetings golavish....Thanks for watching.....................Please note, that, some of the newer, (gasoline) Fuel Injected Engines, might not have very many Deposits showing on the Spark Plugs, and, at times, the Porcelain-looking material, that surrounds the Inner/Center Electrode, might be showing an almost White-ish Color, and perhaps more-so, if the %-age/Percentage of Ethanol (alcohol) gets higher, in the Gasoline (blend), that You put in Your Vehicle's gas tank............................There are 3 basic things, that should be done, on a Vehicle, that has a Gasoline, Fuel Injected Engine, before, You might start to change this part and that part, which at times, might not fix the problem, if indeed, there really happens to be one................................Has Your Vehicle been well Maintained, as well as, having the Parts, such-as, Air and Fuel Filters, new Spark Plugs, etc., that should be Replaced, at the Vehicle Manufacturer's Mileage/Kilometer-age or Time Interval...???...............................Then, the other 2 things are.......Have Your Vehicle's On-Board Computer (about ,1996 and newer), Scanned for "Trouble Codes", with a Scan Tool (kinda looks like, a slightly Larger, hand held Calculator), in order to see, whether or not, Your Vehicle's, Computer's Memory has Stored any Trouble Codes, that will really help You out, if there happens to be any, that is.........................Then, the Fuel System's, "Fuel Pressure", needs to be Checked/Verified, according to Your Vehicle Manufacturer's, Fuel Pressure "Specifications"..............Warning...!!!!...some of those Fuel Pressures, might be, as High as, "60 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch", which can be very Dangerous, and, always Wear Eye protection/Safety Glasses/Goggles, have a Fire Extinguisher near-by, and Do any Fuel related Testing or Maintenance, and also, when-ever the Engine is Running, "Outside", with plenty of Fresh Air and Ventilation, because, the Engine's Exhaust Gas is "Deadly"...!!!.........................Some of the Automotive Parts places, might "Scan" Your Vehicle's Computer for "Free", so, just make a few Phone calls, to see, if any, in Your area, actually do...........................If You care to, You can let me know, the...Year...Make...Model...Engine Size...and any Problems, that You might be having with Your Vehicle, and.............till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@lisagooch3740]

Hey, there, Mr. Rocky. It's been a long time. Looks like you're most famous here and keeping everyone happy.😊. Again, thank you for all of your wonderful support. My current new starting issue with my 2003 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN brings me back to you. Clicking noise instead of starting is what I'm still facing after supposed diagnosis of claims (by an off-brand Auto Repair shop) that I needed a new starter, then a new battery, when the starting issue persisted. Now that my battery has died and stranded me, the shop claims that I now need to purchase a new alternator. Please advise me. My P1684 DIAGNOSTIC CODE still appears. It never went away after these services.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Lisa Gooch.........Welcome back, and, thanks for the nice comment........(Lem-me-see now...I know)....Old-Mac-Caravan-had-ah-farm.....e-eye-e-eye..."oh-No"...!!!...with-ah-click-click-here-and-ah-click-click-there..."hear"-ah-click-there-ah-click...etc. ...(insert...pause/break..."here"...in order to...compose oneself...lol).........Ah yes...the dreaded, tryin' to start the engine..."clicking" sound........That clicking sound, in a lot of cases, just means that, not enough, battery voltage & amps/amperage, is making its way, to the, works ok, (electric) starter motor.........Here's a hypothetical scenario, for you to consider.........Assuming that, of the starting system components, as in...battery...starter motor...ignition (key) switch...relay...neutral safety switch...and maybe a few more, depending on the vehicle, are in, very good condition, and then, Ya hear the "clicking" sound, when turning the ignition key, or, pushing the start button, as the case may be, to the "start" position.......The most common issue, that causes this "clicking" sound, on just about any vehicle, be it, much older, or new, happens to be, a "faulty"...battery "cable"...to...battery "terminal"...connection...and, this particular, "bad" connection, might be, that, one or both, battery, cable connections, are not tightened correctly...or maybe...has some, corrosion/crap build-up, that got between, the battery posts, and, the battery cable's, shall we say...clamps/connectors.........If you find, that, the battery, is very weak, in the morning, then, all it might take, to drain-down the battery over-night, can be as simple as leaving the vehicle's interior "dome" light "on", by mistake, or, maybe even, having, just about anything, electrical, turned on, such as, any lights, radio, etc. , when the engine "is not" running (engine, has to be running, in order, for the serpentine/fan belt, to spin the alternator's pulley, so that, the battery will get charged up, to where it should be)........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...starter motors, and alternators, do wear out, over time/with lot-sa miles or kilometers on them, alright........When I want to know, if the alternator is charging the battery, as good as it should be doin', then, I start the engine (because I can...lol), and I connect the two test leads, from my multi-meter (same, yellow multi-meter, that is shown, in some of my other, KZbin videos), while the dial is set to, the 20 Volt range (red test lead, goes to positive/+ sign, on that battery's post/terminal...and the black lead, goes to the negative/- sign, battery post/terminal)........I usually see, about 14.5 Volts, when the engine is running, and, there "is not", anything turned on, as is, no lights, no radio, etc. (good, might be, about, 13.5 Volts, to no more than, 15 Volts, with engine running, and, with nothing, electrical turned on).........A fully charged, "good" battery, should be showing, about 12.6 Volts, all by itself, with engine "not" running.........Be very "Careful", when working near, or on, a vehicle's battery, because, there is usually, "Explosive" Gas...!!!...that vents, out of the battery, whenever it is getting "Charged-up", be it, by the vehicle's alternator, or, a portable battery charger.........Also, "don't", let any of the battery's acid (if it's the flooded type of battery, that is), get on your "good" clothing, and, here's why........A long time ago, I was carrying, an older car battery, and it made contact, with my blue-jeans........When I washed & dried, those, very same blue-jeans, I saw something very "strange", and, when I held those jeans up, to have a look-see, it looked as though, a..."swarm-of-Moths-on-steroids"...had-ah-go-at-em...nothing, but a bunch of, see-through..."Holes"...wherever, that battery "acid", made contact with the jeans...!!! (true that).........So then, the battery, has to be in good shape/fully charged up, and not having, anything, that is draining it down, when the key is removed from the ignition switch, with the exception of, something like, the vehicle's on-board computer, and maybe, the radio's clock, which usually, will only draw a little-bit, from the vehicle's battery, when the engine "is not" running..........If I get "5" years of use, out a car battery, then, that, in itself, usually, makes me, a "happy camper" (so to speak).........Starter motor and alternator, have to be in good shape/working correctly (both, the starter motor, and the alternator, can sometimes, be tested for free, at some auto-parts stores, especially so, if they are removed from the vehicle, just so Ya know)........All wiring, and, wiring connectors, have to be in good shape, be super clean, and tightened properly, so as, they don't get blamed, for the malfunction, that might be taking place........I missed, seeing your trouble code, so, I'll have a look-see (aka..investigate it...lol), and hopefully, I'll have some info, about that as well, in the near future.........Good luck, with Ur, bad case of the..."clicks"...lol...and till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Lisa Gooch........(This is my second reply to you)...Now then, about that trouble code........P1684, basically means, that, the vehicle's battery, was "disconnected", within, the last "50" engine starts (engine start-ups, that is)........The code might disappear, once you have started-up the engine, "50" times or more, since the battery was "re-connected".........If there is still a problem, with that trouble code, after, "50" or more, engine starts/start-ups, then, just let me know, and, I'll see what I can do........Good luck, and.....till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@lisagooch3740]

@@RockysRoadshow Mr Rocky, you were absolutely right Z again! The failure of the newly installed battery was that the alternator was draining it. Now that the alternator has finally been changed, the battery is properly functioning and the code has disappeared. Love your sarcasm as you get right down to the core of the issues. Happy Holidays to you! Thank you for your kind generosity and great advice!

[@RockysRoadshow]

...and yet another due to a Thermoquad 4-Barrel carburetor being jetted too Lean for the Gasoline that we are buying these days, as compared to the Gasoline that we used to have in the 70's....I had to go from .095" Primary jets (2 of them), to .104"!!! (95 thousandths of an inch to 104 thousandths of an inch)....When using the .095's, the car lurched back and forth, while trying to maintain 30 miles per hour (50 kilometers per hour), and no harm done (I think? lol)....Take care, my Friend

[@idaeus1704]

Great video! I have a fuel injected performance car with one cylinder that’s burned the center electrode down twice, thinking injector issue, thoughts?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Mike Berzinis………..Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…..Well, in order for a spark plug's electrodes, to erode away, in a very short time period, then, I be thinkin', that, that particular spark plug (in the set of them), is not able, to transfer it's heat away from itself properly, and, as it should be doing...…...Might be, that, the coolant passage, nearest to the problem cylinder, is blocked possibly, by sludge, or corrosion, as a guess (I've seen, some engine gaskets, that have, coolant, manufactured/blocked-off portions on them, and, Ya gotta make sure, that, Ya install the "exact/correct" intake gaskets...!!!)...…….If your vehicle, has the OBD-2 (On-Board-Diagnostics-version-2) system (usually 1996 or newer, that has, the 16 pin terminal connector, on the lower dashboard area, near the steering wheel), then, you can scan (or, live monitor), with a scan tool, both, the short term/fuel trim, and, the long term/fuel trim, which will basically be telling you, that, extra fuel is being added, or, less (than normal) is, by the fuel injectors...…….Is that one spark plug's center electrode, actually burned away...??? (lookin' kinda melted, if you will), or maybe, it might be caused by, that particular cylinder detonating, maybe...??? (caused by, a lean air/fuel ratio, in that particular cylinder, perhaps)……….All of the fuel injectors, should be flowing, about the same, and maybe, do, or have them flow tested, or maybe, invest in a new set of them, that are flow "rated" (in volume per hour, perhaps), for your exact vehicle, and modified engine...……Also, do a fuel pressure test, at the fuel rail (or equivalent), and make sure, that, it's where it should be (as per specifications), because, it affects the fuel injector's, flow ability (be careful, because of, the high fuel pressure...!!!).........Check for, an intake related vacuum leak (bad gasket/s or loose bolts or nuts)………..You can also, hook up a vacuum gauge, to the intake manifold or plenum, to see if the vacuum reading, is stable at idle speed, as well as, at, just about any throttle position as well, if the vacuum gauge is mounted on the dashboard, that is...……..If you care to, you can post/comment, what your vehicle, and modified engine, actually is, that way, I might have a much better chance, at helping you out, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings FriboZa....Thanks for your comment, my Friend....It was a long time ago (or, was it once upon a time?...lol), that I made myself very aware Not to assume that a certain problem was caused by "What I think it is", or was!....Like others, I replaced a few parts, Guessing, that, "That-otta-Fix-it", and, it didn't....With that aside (for the time being), while I wouldn't completely rule-out a Coolant Leak, I'll give you the "Patients-Vitals" (my 400 Cubic Inch Chevy V-8 Engine)....(con't)

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Sameer2762....Thanks very much for your great comment....So, one of my spark plug videos reminded you to (I'm guessing), check and possibly replace your spark plug/plugs?....It's just one of those maintenance things that should be done at the recommended intervals, unless, your vehicle starts acting up, in which case, it has to be attended to right away!....May I suggest that everyone keep a notebook with what was done to your vehicle and the date as well....Take care, my Friend...

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Albinus81....Wow, 100 Octane you say!....Over here in Canada, I pretty much use only "87"-Octane (cheapest stuff)...(I wonder if the same rating method is used there?)....The engines that I run only have about an 8.5 to 1 Compression Ratio, and I set Base timing at factory specs (about 5 degrees BTDC) and no knock or ping, and good power too!....Also make sure that you keep your Spark Plug Wires apart from each other, or you might get "Induction Crossfire!"....(con't)...

[@Ctb-rm5hg]

Great video! I was just wondering would you consider a true cold air intake a forced air intake? If not then cool no need to upgrade the spark plugs! If yes, then I need advice.(2.4L Chevy Cobalt) I have no issues w/my car just looking for extra ponies. Please & thank you in advance.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Ctb 1981...…...Thanks for watching...…...To me, a cold air intake, is just that, as in, the air box, or, air filter end, of the air intake, is placed in a position, where, the colder, or coolest air, can be picked up from (sometimes found, between, the inner and outer fenders of the vehicle), and also, sometimes, there is a box shaped heat shield, that keeps, heated engine compartment air, away from, the cold air intake's, entry point as well...…….A forced air intake, is probably where, (intake) air, is, shall we say, rammed into, the engine's, air intake system...……..Might be, in the form of, a hood scoop, turbo charger (exhaust gas driven), or super charger (belt driven)………..The reason, that, a good, cold air intake system, is good for performance, is basically because, there is usually more oxygen, contained within, cold (not wet) air, as opposed to, hot air...……If you are planning to install, an "oiled" type of air filter, then...don't..."over-oil" it...after it has been cleaned, because, if your air intake system, has a "mass airflow sensor" in it, then sometimes, that extra/not needed, air filter oil, will contaminate, the mass airflow sensor's, very sensitive (and fussy), sensing, electronic component/s (sometimes, they can be cleaned, with a special spray cleaner, if Ur lucky)……….It all boils down to, how much money, that, Ya wanna spend...???...…...Check out, your vehicle's, factory installed, air intake system's location, as, Ya might already have, a "cold air intake" system, without even realizing it, maybe...???...…….Factory recommended spark plugs, should be ok, if it's just, a non-forced, cold air intake system, that is being used...…….It's usually when, the engine's, cylinder (combustion) pressure increases, by using, nitrous oxide, turbocharging, or supercharging, where, a spark plug's heat range, starts to get colder, as well as, the "gap", that's between the spark plug's electrodes, also gets smaller too, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@Ctb-rm5hg]

@@RockysRoadshow Cool! No need to upgrade my spark plugs!

[@WesselLemmer]

Thanks again, you've been more than helpful.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings TylerART....Thanks for your comment....One of the Best Design Features of Holley Carburetors is that some of them have "Externally-Adjustable-Float-Level-Settings", (Yes-Sir, I'm talking about the ones with "Duel" float Bowls, one front, and one rear), and even if you have to remove the "Plug" in order to watch the Gasoline/Fuel Dribble out in order to Confirm that the "Wet-Fuel-Level" is set properly (and, make sure your Vehicle is on "Level Ground" when you do so!), then...(con't)

[@TheSamplebridge]

on my plugs in my EFI 302 it has a little white around the base of the electrode and then transitions into a dark brown on the tip, there is no deterioration on the tip of either side. nothing filling the gap and the rest is pretty clean. I always thought it was running rich cause of the constant backfire (I have no cats). based on what you said white means lean, but I see some other guys with a little bit of white and they say it's good.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...TheSamplebridge.............Nice Car there, and, Thanks for watching.............Yes, indeed, it seems that, most Fuel Injected Engines, that are controlled by Computers, will probably have less, in the way of spark plug Deposits, most times, but only "if", all of the Components are behaving themselves, and are working, as they should be do-in.................Most of the spark plugs, that I used as, shall we say "Props" (aka, stationary Movie Stars...!!!...lol), were, for the most part (with an exception or two), were out of Low Compression Engines (no more than, about 8.5 to 1 compression ratio), that also had, Oil Filled, cylindrically shaped Ignition Coils, in the Ignition System/circuit................The Heat Range, of a Spark Plug, is very important, as it applies to, its Self Cleaning Temperature...Too Cold...then, probably Too Many Deposits, will be getting stuck on, and showing up, on the business end of the Spark Plug/s........Too Hot (of a heat range), then...Bad Things...might happen, such as Pre-Ignition (that's where, the Air/Fuel Mixture Ignites, "Before", the spark plug goes "Spark"...!!!), and, if that starts happening, get ready, for some possible, Expensive, & Un-Wanted Engine "Damage"...!!!...Yikes...!!! (so, if You happen to Hear any...Pinging...Rattling...or...Knocking Sounds, coming from Your Engine, get it Fixed without Delay...!!!)...............Speaking of the Heat Range, of a Spark Plug, I just recalled something, that may be of interest.................I had a Stock, 8.5 to 1 C/R...V-8 Engine, that would get started, oh, about once-ah-month, there-abouts, in a vehicle, that wasn't being driven on the street, at the time, and it had, as I recall, Factory/Originally installed...Champion...N-12-Y Spark Plugs...in it (and those spark plugs, got discontinued, according to the Parts Guy, and, was replaced with, as I recall...Champion...RN-12-YC...that should have the changes-of, going to a Resistor type of spark plug, @ 5,000, or 10,000 Ohms...???...as well as, adding-in, a Copper/center electrode, well, if I get it right that is), and that, in itself, is not the whole story at all...say what...???...............If memory serves me right, I believe that, I probably Cracked, one of the spark plug's, Ceramic insulators, when I removed, that, stubborn, what-sha-ma-call-it, from the engine's cylinder head, so now what...???...so, I goes over to my, not so secret...lol...spark plug Collection, some of which, were Used, and a few, of the others, were "New"...!!!......"Wowsers"...!!!...What I saw, and had, was, a Brand New, either...Champion...N-14-Y...or was it a...RN-14-YC...I forget, but, with either one of them, I would have a Spark Plug, that was...2-Heat Ranges HOTTER...then the...N-12-Y...or the...RN-12-YC...so, I installed the "New"..."14" Heat Range spark plug, into one cylinder (head) only.................A few months, and Start-ups later, I pulled the "14" Heat Range spark plug, to have a look-see, at the Deposits, on "it", and to my (surprise...???)...Wowsers...!!!...by just going..."Up"...by..."2-Heat Range"...Numbers...that..."14-Heat-Range" spark plug, sure looks..."Ah-Lot-CLEANER"...than, those..."12-Heat-Range" spark plugs, ever did...!!! (please note...that, this Engine, was mostly running at Idle Speed, with a Blip of the Throttle, every now and again)...............Gee, I wonder...??? (with a stupid look on my face...lol), just How Clean, and maybe Too Hot (looking), that, that..."14-Heat-Range"...Spark Plug, just might be, if I were to actually Drive, at Sustained Highway Speeds, for Lot-sa Miles...???...maybe too Clean, as well as too Hot...???...and maybe, some possible Engine Damage...??? (I'm thinkin')...............Might be Ok, at Low, City Speeds, without harming the Engine perhaps...???................Just goes to show, how important it is, to be installing, the Correct "Heat Range" of Spark Plug, in just about any, Gasoline Burnin' Engine alright................The good ole rule of thumb, use to be, that, let's say, a car gets driven in the City, at mostly slower speeds, almost all of the time, then, a Person, might consider, having spark plugs, having a slightly Higher Heat Range, then Stock...where-as...let's say, a car, gets driven mostly at higher, highway speeds, most of the time, then, a Person, might install, spark plugs, that are, of a slightly, Lower Heat Range, then Stock...Why You ask...???...well, it's now time, to revert back to, that good ole..."Self Cleaning Temperature"...alright..............Lem-me try to x-splain........Lots of Cold Starts, followed up, with lots of slow speed, city-like driving, will more than likely, be leaving More Deposits, on the spark plugs...as opposed to...something like, a Vehicle, that spends most of its life, Cruising, for hours at a time, at sustained, Highway Speeds...........If it were me (do-in the head-scratchin'), then, I'd probably select, a Spark Plug's Heat Range, based-on, a Heat Range, that was "just" Hot Enough to, shall we say..."Burn-Off"...most of the Deposits, for the Type of Driving/Use, that, that particular Vehicle, would ever be seeing, just, "Never Too Hot", to avoid any Engine Damage (Pre-Ignition, etc.)................For the older, regular Spark Plugs (kinda, like the Champion...N-12-Y...as an example), another Rule of Thumb, for those older ones, use to be, to have no more than, about .001"/one thousandths of an Inch..."Gap Growth"...per Thousand Miles, that the vehicle travelled (wear/increase, cuz of, the...electrical, Arc/spark Erosion, between the spark plug's Electrodes)...........Any more than that, to me, is somewhat suspicious, don't-cha-think...???...might even be...too Hot of a Heat Range perhaps...???..........Also, things like...Too Lean of an Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, for the needs, of the engine, at about, any given time, can affect, the way a spark plug looks.......Too Much, or, Too Little...Ignition Timing Advance, at about any RPM and Load condition, will probably have, its share of things, to say as well.........The (coolant) Temperature of the Engine (thermostat rating), will probably also, have an affect as well, seeing as how, some of the Old School Thermostats, probably went as Low as, about "160" Degrees Fahrenheit, and some, that I've probably come across, were as High as, about..."205" Degrees Fahrenheit......interesting that..............Then, among other things (as well), there's..."Spark Intensity" (between the spark plug's Electrodes), oh, and, there be lots, did I say LOTS, of things, go-in on, as in, just about anything, and everything, as it relates to, the Vehicle's Ignition System itself (and then some...lol), so much so, that I can't do it, here and now...lol...but rather, I'm almost at the point, of (somewhat), be-in able to write a little book about "it"...maybe...???................Maybe, install a "Wideband Oxygen Sensor", in Your Exhaust System, along with the matching, Dash-Mounted, "Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge" (can be purchased as a Kit), so You'll be able to see, the "Air/Fuel Ratio", that Ur Engine is Running at, under all RPM's and Load conditions, in Real Time..............So then, just about every, Gasoline Burnin' Engine, out there (to me, that is), seems to have, a, shall we say, "Personality", all of its Own, kinda like People somewhat (just sayin' now), and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@jonstone6923]

Well dad has a lot of knowledge as he is 67 yr old. He has seen a lot, he taught me how to service breaks both drum and pad, he said he use to use a vacuum reading to set the carburetors on the old cars. He hasn't much knowledge on fuel injected though, I've recently worked on his truck trying to fix an issue with the idle and overall running/ performance. That truck must have fuel issues I've changed the fuel filter, mad sensor and spark plugs. The truck will not stay crank! Lol it dies after cranking unless you hold the throttle down till it gets warm. Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards fuel pump but I haven't a gauge that will attach to the shrader valve so I'm kinda in the dark there. Yeah, dad has taught me a lot. Carpentry, plumbing, electrical wiring, small engine and automotive, weilding , machine trade. Along with tricks of all kinds but I'm still young and learning. I'm in a fast learning mode now days I don't struggle with things like I once did but still need some experience. I'm glad to of talked with you its hard to find people with knowledge now days, most are parts changers instead of mechanics.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Jon Stone....It's good to know, that, you are interested in, what most Guys from the Past use to do on a Regular Basis....In that, I mean, "Do It Yourself", as opposed, to, calling a Home "RepairMan/RepairWoman", or, just taking your Vehicle to the "Shop", and let them Fix It (way too Expensive for my liking!...lol)....Big Name Car Dealerships charge in excess of "$100" (One Hundred Canadian Dollars) Per Hour for Labor Only!!! (and, still No Parts in Sight!...lol)....Most of the Current Generation, seem to be spending most of their time, Staring at their "Cell-Phones", and, I have seen some pretty Dangerous Situations, while they are "Texting", both, Driving a Vehicle, and, while they are Walking!....Please, don't get me wrong, as I'm Not Anti-Cell Phone, or, Anti-Technology, but, (in my view), there comes a time, when, I Personally put "Safety" ah-head (at the top of the list), before almost Everything Else! : ) Me, a Mechanic?....I have never Officially worked as a Mechanic, and, I'm not Certified either (say what!...lol)....Truth be told, Auto-Mechanics is just One of my Hobbies, that's all....I'm Self Taught, with some help from my Dad and Friends, while I was just getting started....Believe it or not, most of my Basic Automotive Knowledge was learned from a Book that I purchased for about 5 Bucks (5 Dollars), and, I still have it to this very day!....I still read parts of it from time to time, and, the Poor Book is Falling Apart! (became Unbound, due to Over-Use!...lol)....I personally can't Rate this Book "Highly" Enough, as it is really that good!....The Book was Published by "Petersen's" in 1977, and the Title is..."Basic Auto Repair Manual" (No 8)....Keep an eye out for it, and, you might even find it in a Thrift Store!....It's a Soft Cover Book, and, it's just slightly smaller then a piece of Computer "Printer" Paper, and, almost 3/4 (three quarters) of an inch Thick....Please note, that it only covers vehicles to about 1977, and their related Fuel and Electrical Systems of that time period....Thanks Petersen's! Now then, about "Daddy's" Truck....Some possible things to consider are... Vacuum Leaks, and yes, Fuel Pump Pressure is very Important for Fuel Injected vehicles....With some General Motors vehicles (and maybe others as well), there can be an Electrical Fuel Pump "Relay" (that can go bad), and, in some cases is backed up by a "Switch" that "Senses" Oil Pressure, and, if the actual Fuel Pump Electrical "Relay" is Not Functioning, then, you have to "Crank" the engine (you know, starter motor Cranking engine over) until the Engines "Oil Pressure" is at least 4 PSI (pounds per square inch), then, that Oil Pressure "Switch" that I had mentioned will "Complete" the Electrical Circuit, to supply the Electric Fuel Pump with Electricity. (just thought that I should mention it, but, it may not apply to your Dad's Truck). Before you go on a "Wild Goose Chase", I would recommend that you Test that "Fuel Pump Pressure", or, you might find yourself wasting time and Money as well. How did the spark plugs look?....Dry?...Wet?...Smoke out of the Tail Pipe, while it was running? To check for Spark, while Cranking, or, Running the Engine....If you have an "Inductive" Timing Light" (the kind that has the spring loaded "Clamp" that you attach to a Spark Plug Lead/Wire), you can either have Dad, or someone hold the Trigger on the Timing Light (or, tape down the timing lights "Trigger", and, point the Timing Light towards you, as you Crank, or Run the Engine), and watch the "Flashes" (we are Not Setting Timing, just looking for a Pulse!...lol)....The "Flashes" should be at Regular "Intervals", Not "Skipping" all over the place, or, No Flash at all....Warning!, be Careful, and watch out for Hot, and Moving Parts!, and, make sure the Timing Lights "Wires" are Away from Hot and Moving Parts as well....Make sure (if you do it alone), that you Secure the Timing Light, so it Does Not Fall, get Damaged, or gets wrapped up by Fan Belts and such! Maybe try this, next time you try to Start "Pop's" Truck....Before you start Cranking the Engine, hold the Key in the "Run" Position (Not Start Position!), and, Listen Closely for the Electric Fuel Pump Operating "Sound/Noise" (yeah, I know that it works somewhat, But...), what you want to be Listening for, is, if that Electric Fuel Pump is Sounding Healthy....Please Note, that Fuel Pump might only be working for 2 seconds, or a wee bit longer, as, some of them do a "Prime Only", to bring the Fuel Pressure Up to Pressurize the Fuel Lines....In some cases, you can do this many times....Just Turn the Ignition Off, for a Minute or so, then, turn the Key to the "Run" Position, and Listen (again...lol). Hmmmm, your Pop's Truck might even have a "Plugged-Up" Cat (Meow...lol, nah, more like a Catalytic Converter!)....If indeed it is Plugged up, or Partially Plugged up, what this does, is, creates Way Too Much "Back Pressure" in the Exhaust System!, and, in some cases, you would be lucky to make it out of your Driveway!....Yes-Siree-Bob, Too much Exhaust Back Pressure actually keeps the Engine from "Breathing!!!" (aka, Suffocation)....Hey Pop's, do you still have your "Vacuum Gauge?"....You can use a Vacuum Gauge to somewhat test for a Plugged "Cat" (Catalytic Converter), or Exhaust System for that Matter....Hook up the Vacuum Gauge, and watch what it does....Once the Engine is Running at Idle, that should give you about 15 inches (or more) of Vacuum showing on the Gauge....Now, Rev up the Engine a bit (not too fast now), and hold the revs there....The Vacuum reading should stay Put!....If the Vacuum Reading Starts to drop, as you keep the Revs Steady, then, that's a darn good indication that the "Cat" is Plugged somewhat, or, the Exhaust System has become "Restricted" (preventing Free Exhaust Flow)....Maybe somehow, the Trucks Exhaust System (Pipes) got Kinked, or Bent, by contacting something perhaps?....Off-Roading (aka, 4-Wheelin) at all? Also, next time you try to Start Pop's Truck, Hold the Gas Pedal about 1/4 (one quarter) of the way Down, as this has worked for me, on a 4.3 Liter (262 cubic inch) V-6 General Motors Engine, and, (for me) doing this Helps the Engine Start-Up Better when the Engine is Hot or Cold! : ) Let me know what the "Patient" actually is (you know, Make, Model, Engine Size and Number of Cylinders, etc.), or, I will be the One, going on the "Wild Goose Chase!"...lol. Take care, and, "HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!"

[@jonstone6923]

RockysRoadshow Thank you Thank You!! I have wanted that knowledge for years, I use to own a 1994 f150 but since sold it and had a service manual and can't find that either. Dad's truck is a 2000 f-150 v 6 engine can't remember if the engine is a 4.2 or?... I appreciate the common info on the general ideas of what could cause such a problem. The ole truck is still worth fixing just got to get it so. If dad was a younger man he"d already had it fixed. Arthritis isn't his friend for sure, I do not think he still has that vacuum gauge but I'm an appliance and a/c tech and have such gauges all I have to do is adapt it to fit. Is there a particular hose i should attach it to? For the vacuum procedure? I didn't think about the CAT, my brother in law had a van with that very problem and he got under it and pocked holes in it and it ran fine for a while. I don't intend to do that though, I am on the look out for that book you mentioned any knowledge is good I need a foundation first so i can build on it. You certainly gave me a good start. I've always wanted to learn these things since i was a boy about seven years old and took my first motor apart. lol, that was fun to me, Dad showed me on that briggs&startton how to set the time and told me about top dead center ect. He even showed how to set gap on plugs and used an old ISBM card or a feeler gauge to set the coil to flywheel gap. I'm better with carburetors than fuel injection, I thought about vacuum leaks before but most people say to start the engine and spray the carburetor cleaner around vacuum hoses, I do not like that method. Yours makes better since, I have plenty of gauges that will read both pressure and vacuum, just have to figure out the thread size on the fuel pressure valve. I've plenty of thread gauges for that as well. I kinda took you as a mechanic since you know so much but yet my dad can lay bricks, blocks and do carpentry but he hasn't a license nor has he done that for a living much. Sorry wasn't trying to profile you, I can check the fuel pump relay and overall voltage if need be. I'll have to get the pressure specifications and I'll test the fuel pressure. I do know that the truck will start to run after it warms up but still shaky and not smooth. I know he has a valve cover oil leak, I replaced the spark plugs the other day and it needed it. Had some oil on three of the plugs and a brown/ white build up on the others. The plugs with the oil were right where the oil leaks is. A gasket isn't much and is easy to change. May just need tightening, I'll check that too, I am thinking the vacuum and fuel pressure testing should be my top priority for now and work my way from there. While an oil leak isn't good my old ford had the same and it ran just fine. Where do you suggest the best place to check vacuum for the cat? I'll give you a synopsis of what I have done to the truck this year. I replaced the O2 sensors this summer and the maf sensor, replaced the fuel filter too, as I mentioned above I replaced plugs the other day. That's mostly what I have done, I have experience from my line of work that when things aren't running smoothly check your basics first and usually it's a simple solution. I'm going to try and do what you suggested, I'll listen for the pump like you said first then follow through from there. I do know that some pressure is there because after cranking it I made the schrader valve and gas sprayed from it. Just have to keep throttle down until it has about a minute to run then it will idle but rough idle. Hope that catalytic converter isn't clogged, one time we had a tiller with a briggs engine and an old muffler and that muffler glowed red wow i thought! Dad said it's stopped up so he tried to clean it out but he took it out for the time being and bought a new one afterwards. Yeah, i should have thought about the cat. being clogged a bit. It wouldn't hurt to lie down and look at it when engine is hot might see a glow. Well, I'm off for now, I hope your New Year was great! i hope this year is better than the last 5 as times have been hard here. This will be a great dad and son project, I'll get dad to help when I need three hands. Again I thank you very very much, I am bound and set on getting that truck fixed. Always great working with dad these days there aren't enough of that as in years past. The man has taught me a lot even old arts like braiding leather into whips and one time had an aircraft cable to break while hoisting a heavy load. What did he do? Cut the loose ends, unraveled the wire, wrapped it around the load and braided it to itself. I really have a long ways to go lol! Thanks!!! Jon

[@RockysRoadshow]

Jon Stone Ooops, I made a Boo Boo....When I was talking about the EGR Valve, and when it was Supposed to be Open, and when it was Supposed to be Closed....I should have said, that, the EGR Valve is Supposed to be "Closed" at "Idle" (speed), and, at "Wide Open Throttle"....Usually, the only time that the EGR Valve is "Open", is when, the Engine is at Operating Temperature (fully warmed up), and, the Engine is at "Cruising Speed", with a light Throttle (gas pedal applied)....Thank Goodness for the term "Proof Reading!"...lol.

[@blargblarghonk]

Sounds like Idle air control valve. On the 4.0 modular v6s I'm not sure exactly where on the throttle body they are. But it's easy to pull off and clean it. Do that and see if it has a lot of carbon deposits. Also get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the fuel bleeder shcrader valve on one end of the fuel rail. And test with a few key cycle's to make sure it's hold pressure at probably around 44-50 psi and make sure it doesn't bleed off. If it does it might be the fuel pressure regulator. If it doesn't bleed off any pressure proceed to test with engine running. If it doesn't maintain pressure at about the same as standing then it might be a clogged fuel line or the fuel pump is bad. Just some do it yourself stuff that's easy. Also one thing to check that I've seen is a fuel pump relay dropping off voltage at load from worn contacts. Just a few tests and ideas.

[@RockysRoadshow]

blargblarghonk Greetings blargblarghonk....Thanks for helping out....You presented some very good possible solutions, and, above all, you are stepping in, and trying to help....Take care, and, "HAPPY NEW YEAR!"

[@jonstone6923]

Well I believe the heating issue on dad's truck is a actuator failure. The shafts that turns the heat release isn't moving so I just tied it up for now. I'll wait till spring to fix it right. I'm currently working on a lexus starter issue. It clicks and doesn't want to crank the engine. It will crank after a few tries, I can buy a solenoid repair kit to replace the contacts, plunger and bolt studs. I think that'll fix it, I plan on testing the starter comotator ( I'm pretty sure I just misspelled that) for shorts. However, I think the solenoid is the problem. What do you think?

[@RockysRoadshow]

Jon Stone Greetings Jon Stone.................Welcome back, and, lettuce see, what we can do, about, getting that...(listen closely now)..."Click"...Sound, to turn into, a..."Va-Room"..."Va-Room"...Sound, of a..."Running" once again..."Lexus Engine" shall we.........................................Lettuce see now........Hmmmmm...........From the very Start...We..."Crawl" before we can "Walk"...then We..."Walk" before we can "Run"...that's Your Clue.......................Or, in other words, Follow, that there "Bread Crumb Trail", from its very Origin, or, Starting Point (nah, no pun intended at this particular point in time...lol), as in...Checking-Out...All of the..."Components and Wiring"...that are "Related" to the Vehicle's "Starting System", in a, shall we say..."Chronological Order" (that be, just a Fancy-Schmancy way, of Sayin', Doing Things in Order, kinda like, from...Start to Finish, if You will)....................Lettuce now begin......Starting with (again, it's not a pun...lol), the Vehicle's..."Battery"...............Is the Battery in Good Shape and "Fully Charged"...???.................."Warning"..."Danger"...be..."Very Careful"..."No Sparks Allowed"...while working anywhere "Near" a vehicle's Battery...."Especially" while it is being..."Charged-Up"...by either, the vehicle's..."Charging System (Alternator or Generator) or even a..."Battery Charger"...as there is usually..."Explosive Gas"...being "Emitted" (aka, Venting), out of the "Battery's Vents"...!!!..........................................If the Battery's "Voltage" is Below about 12.5 Volts, with-out anything connected to It, then, it is probably "Not Fully Charged", or, maybe, seen better days...........................................If I get, oh, about "5 Years" of Use, out of a typical Lead/Acid type of, 12 Volt-Car Battery, I'm content with that......................................So, once the Battery is Working as it should, then.....................................Are the Battery Connection Pads/Posts, and the Battery Cable's, Connection Ends/Clamps..."Clean, Tight and Corrosion Free"...???...................................Oh yeah..."Don't Forget".........Make Sure, that the "Large Gauge/Thick Wire/Cable" that...Provides the "Ground to the Engine Block or Cylinder Head/s" (Electrically, that is)...is Super Clean, as well as, the Engine Block or Cylinder Head, Location/Mounting Point, for that large Wire/Cable, is also Super Clean as well, as that alone, if Dirty/Corroded/etc., can make, for that "Click" Sound, at times, as well...................................................That some-what Famous "Click" Sound, can be caused by...Low Battery Voltage & Bad Wiring Connections, as well as, something along the lines of, a Not So Good Ignition Switch as well..etc.......................................If All of the Things check out so far, then, here's something...........................................There are quite a few "Automotive" Establishments, that will "Check-Out"...as in..."Test"...Your "Starter Motor" for "Free"...just make a few phone calls, and make that inquiry...but...the only Drawback being, is that, You'll have to Remove the Starter (Motor) and take "It' to "Them", in order to receive, that there "Free Test"...........................................Before You might do the following, "Check", to see if there might be something like, an..."Anti-Theft"..."Radio/Entertainment Unit"...or anything else..."Procedure"...that has to be done, "Before" the vehicle's Battery is "Disconnected"...!!!!.................. .................Make sure, that You "Remove the Ground (aka, - or Minus) Battery Cable End/Clamp"...From the Battery...(Note...Only Applies to a Negative Ground Vehicle...!!!)..."Before" You start Disconnecting those Starter Motor Wires, Especially the much "Larger Gauge (thick) One/s", as there will be Lots of Electrical "Arcing", as in "Sparks", if any Loose Wiring Touches places where It Should Not be touching/connecting to...!!!................................So, Before Digging in, as far as You might be Thinking, to be doing...First, make sure, that there is 12 or More Volts, getting to Your Starter Motor's Connection Point (Solenoid?), as in, at the End of the Heavy Gauge Wire, that is responsible for Supplying the Starter Motor, with the required amount of Battery Electricity...................................................See if You can find a..."Wiring/Circuit Schematic" (aka, Electrical Drawing)...for the "Exact" Vehicle, that You are working on, as that will Eliminate, most "Guess-Work"...!!!.............................................Some 12 Volt, V-8 Starter Motors, could Draw, oh, somewhere around "200 Amps" of Electricity, possibly, which, as I see, more or less, has to have a pretty darn good Starter Motor, Battery, and a Starting System, Electrical Circuit, including the Ignition Switch/Button........and even More-so, when a "High Performance/High Compression Engine" enters the picture...!!!..."Yee-Haw...!!!.......................................So, once You actually Know, that the Starting, Electrical Circuit, is Working as it should, and is Able to "Supply the Starter/Solenoid", with the required Volts/Amps, and, all You Hear is "Click", then, barring something, like the Starter Motor's "Pinion Gear", getting Hung-up/Stuck, in something, as absurd, and Theoretical, as Some "Missing/Broken Gear Teeth", that are found, on the Circumference, of the Automatic Transmission's "Flex Plate", or, on the "Ring Gear", that is found, on the Circumference, of the Flywheel, on an Engine, that has a "Standard Transmission" (with the 3rd Pedal and a Clutch!...lol), then, Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...just might be, the..."Starter Motor"..after all...???...................If You care to, let me know, what You find out.................Till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@jonstone6923]

Hello again, I did get the starter issue fixed. I bought the contacts and stud bolts for the solenoid and it fixed it up good and proper. I could hardly see how the starter could turn over at all once i saw how badly worn the contacts were. I do know I can use a volt meter on the ohm setting to check for a shorted commutator and the armature as well. Glad the motor wasn't bad i paid 27.83 for the repair kit and it is cranking over so strongly know. I still have a valve cover gasket to replace but it can wait till a warmer day. I am getting more into the car service/repair as a hobby. I've done appliances and central heating and air for about 12 years and it's getting old lol! Working on cars gives me a new challenge. I appreciate your info and will keep your videos playing for a while. You take care and keep those videos coming !

[@RockysRoadshow]

Jon Stone Greetings Jon Stone...."Congratulations"...!!!...for getting that Starter (Motor), to be "Workin' like New, or maybe even better then New......................................Looks like You were correct, in that, it was "Starter" related, specifically...................... Seeing as how the "Electricity", wasn't able to "Flow" as it should be, to provide Your Starter/Motor, with the required Volts/Amps, to make it Spin Fast, along with a Large amount of Torque as well, then, as I see it, by having those Not So Good..."Contacts"...well, that would probably be, just like having, something like, a Not So Good "Wiring Connection or Faulty Ignition Switch", which would, well, kinda make the Starter/Motor, Work not so good as well, don't-cha-think.................................................Now that Your Starter/Motor is Healthy once again, may I suggest, that, You Remove and Clean, any Wiring, that's part of the Starting & Ignition System, that's easy to get at, as, by doing so, You'll be Providing, those particular "Wiring Circuits", with the best chance possible, for "Conducting" the greatest amount of "Volts/Amps", that the Vehicle's Battery is capable of Supplying, without have any "Un-Needed Resistance", which will usually cause an "Un-Needed Voltage Drop", at the very same time..............................................That's why You'll be Hearin' me Sayin', from time to time, about that good ole Sayin'...and...that Sayin' is..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...!!!...and in this particular case, I'm comparing that Sayin', to just about any..."Electrical Wiring Circuit"...known to Man-Kind...!!!...lol..........................I find, that it's just a matter of time, before a Wire's "End Terminal", and where It is "Connected To", will eventually..."Oxidize"...or..."Corrode"...etc.......Especially, when we're talking about a "Very Damp & Moist Climate/Environment", and eventually, as I see it, will usually result in, some, if not most "Electrical Connections", developing, a very "Un-Wanted Resistance/Voltage Drop", that will make..."What-Ever-It-Is"...to not work, as good as It should, or maybe, not even at all...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol................................Oh yeah, I haven't used a Valve/Rocker Cover Gasket, for, what seems like, almost forever, on the typical...North American...Inline 6-Cylinder...V-6...and...V-8 Engines, that I worked, or work on..."Say What"...???...................Yeah, in the past, I messed with Valve/Rocker Cover Gaskets, that were made out of "Cork" or "Rubber"...........................The Cork type, were a real pain to scrape off, of the Covers, and the Rubber type, always seemed to "Slide Around", when-ever I was Installing them.............................All I use now, is a "High Heat...Copper Colored...and Sensor Safe...Silicone"...and...all I have to do, is Clean the Engine Heads, and the Gasket area, of the Valve/Rocker Covers...then..."Apply" and Spread, a quite generous amount, of said Silicone, on the Valve/Rocker Covers, that resemble the "Shape of the Real Gasket"..............then..........."Slap" those Valve/Rocker Covers back on the Heads, and Medium Tighten the Cover's Bolts, and yes, it's that "Easy"...!!!...lol..................................................I've never had a "Drop of Motor Oil", get past..."Any"...of those..."Home-Made"...Valve/Rocker Gaskets..."Ever"...!!!.........................If I recall correctly, the "Silicone" Stuff was called..."Ultra Copper"...and might have been made, by the "Permetex" (spelling?) Company.....................................Best damn Silicone that I've ever, and always use...but...that's the "Only Color", that it comes in...!!!...lol..............................As long as the "Surfaces" are Not Oil-ee, Clean, and Dry, this "Silicone" is the "Chit"...!!!...lol................................I've used "It" as a Thermostat Housing Gasket, but You have to make sure, that, this particular Application, Doesn't require the Thickness/Spacing, that a "Specified Gasket Thickness" provides, if so Needed...!!!...Always Check...!!!...........................................Well, till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Chris....I have read about the things that you have mentioned about "Reading" the different parts of spark plugs a few years ago, and, if you look at my videos "Thumbnail" picture, you know, the one with the nice light tan colored coating on the porcelain surrounding the center electrode, and on the outer electrode (ground strap), and also the black carbon coating on the threaded metal shells surface, perpendicular to the threads, that, that's what I like to see, simply put....(con't)

[@RockysRoadshow]

...one thing that I do recall, is, a while back, I was looking for a new set of spark plugs for my late 70's 350-V-8 Chevy engine....I asked the parts guy about installing some platinum spark plugs instead of the regular garden variety Factory installed spark plugs...and...here's what he told me....He said that a few customers were having trouble, and at least one claimed, that when he (the customer), installed the platinum's, they damaged his engine!....Take care...

[@ruffyatutube]

Rocky, How about a new show explaining how different types of spark plug actually shape up; Is it mostly sales gimmickry, in the final analysis, considering too the price of some, multiplied by 8, can go sky high, or, in fact, the differences are significant?

[@Sameer2762]

u r right bro, the thing is, i stopped reading the plugs for so long, my bike was working gr8 but suddenly recently she gave me some issues so i tried setting up the carb, it worked but i know how my plug looks whenever i open it up, i was running lean, also the plug is cold, it isn't reaching the self cleaning temperatures, and no company is providing hotter one for the engine my bike has :| thinking to increase the CR now :D more power on same settings. :D

[@ArthVader09]

My spark plug is on the leaner side because it is white but when i try to richen the mixture i smell strong fumes on the exhaust so i return to my previous lean condition

[@RockysRoadshow]

...also, before I forget, it also had the Factory "Transistorized" ignition (module mounted on firewall), and a separate oil filled ignition coil mounted at the rear of the intake manifold....Also, spark plugs gaps were set at .035"....this/these spark plugs only had a few hundred miles on them, and, as you can see, they sure look good (to me that is, lol)....The way that they would look at the manufacturers replacement interval (12,000 miles), would have more deposits on them....(con't)

[@Kaesk3]

Thanks for the informative video. I just checked my spark plugs today in my 89 toyota corolla with a 1.6 4af carb engine and all of the spark plugs had white coat of carbon on them. My car seems to have a vaccum leak because it hesitates when I put my foot down and it bucks aswell. Does that mean the white carbon on the plugs is from having a lean engine? I am very determined to get my engine running the way it should and I'll be getting some new plugs tomorrow. I think I have to clean the carb aswell or it might need rebuilding, I hope not though lol I really have to fix this vaccum leak

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Kaes seaK...........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching..........Try this...while your engine is fully warmed up to operating temperature, try putting your foot down "slowly", as in, apply the gas pedal "gradually/at a very slow rate", and see how the engine responds..........If your vehicle's engine runs ok this way, and runs bad, while you push the gas pedal down really fast, then, there's a good chance, that your carburetor's accelerator pump, or accelerating fuel circuit, "is not", shall we say, "squirting" enough gasoline, while doing a fast acceleration...........Carbon is usually "black" (not white)..........Is the "white" color, on your spark plugs, as white as, the white color, of the spark plug's porcelain...???...because if it is, then, that's probably a "lean" condition, considering that, your engine has a carburetor on it..........If the color looks kinda "gray", then, that might be a bit lean as well.........If the gasoline has lots of ethanol (alcohol), in its blend, then, that can also, make an engine run on the lean side as well..........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...get that "vacuum leak fixed", as soon as possible, or (and hopefully not), your engine might start getting "damaged" (same as saying, expensive...don't-cha-think...maybe...???...lol).........."Never" go hard, on the gas pedal, with a vacuum leak, or, too lean of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), because, that's usually, the engine's operating condition, where the "Most" engine "Damage" will probably happen, as opposed to, just going very easy, on the gas pedal (still not good).........Try to keep up with maintenance, that Toyota recommends for your Corolla, as in...all filters...PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve...check/adjust ignition timing...replacing old spark plug Wires...new coolant (antifreeze & water)...etc...oh and, of course...spark plugs too..........Good luck, and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

[@LouPicardo]

Thank you for this interesting video. I was accelerating my car today to lets say 3,000 RPM (not too much I know) and strangely the outer tip of the spark plug blew off! This never happened to me before I guess this happened because the plugs were not the correct heat range and are very old. What do you think? .

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings Connorjuly....Not to worry, as I'm not offended in the least....For the most part, I'm usually an easy going kind of guy....There were a few weird/strange things that I have encountered in the past....One young Lady (cashier), gave me a look that I probably won't forget....When I was going through a check-out at a department store with some automotive parts that I was about to pay for, she said, are you so and so, (can't remember the name) of an Actor!!!...lol...Take care my Friend...

[@TPVPRO]

I would not say just jetting in a carb setup lean/rich. The jetting could be fine, it could also be the idle air mixture or a reverse of the two.

[@Sameer2762]

hey! u got me wrong buddy :P, i meant the plug is cold, not hot, and issues were thr of course, but now they ain't, that's what i was telling u, that after watchin ur vdo i remembered that my engine is actually running lean and the plug isn't reaching the self cleaning heat range. but now everything's working perfectly. the engine is a single cylinder carburetted, air cooled one, so issues get a bit bigger when compared to ECU controlled multi cylinder fuel injected ones. :) getting me? :) :D

[@daveanthonysalalima1128]

Can i replace BKR5EKUP Laser Platinum Plug (5K ohms) with IZKR7B Laser Iridium Plug (1K ohms)? Even they have different resistance value? BKR5EKUP Laser Platinum Plug Thread Size: 14mm Thread Pitch: 1.25mm Seat Type: Gasket Resistor: Yes Resistor Value: 5K Ohm Reach: 19mm (3/4") Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm) Terminal Type: Solid Overall Height: ISO Gap: .024" (0.6mm) IZKR7B Laser Iridium Plug Thread Size: 12mm Thread Pitch: 1.25mm Seat Type: Gasket Resistor: Yes Resistor Value: 1K Ohm Reach: 19mm (3/4") Hex Size: 5/8" (16mm) Terminal Type: Solid Overall Height: ISO Gap: .035" (0.9mm)

[@RockysRoadshow]

Greetings...Dave Anthony Salalima………..Thanks for watching...……..Well, the safest thing, (in my opinion, that is), for your vehicle's engine, is to use the "factory/manufacturer's"..."Original"...spark plugs, that were installed in your engine, when it was brand new, because, that's what the engineers/designers "specified", for your "exact" engine...……Sure, iridium, will usually last longer that the platinum type, but, why take the chance, in case something goes wrong, maybe...???...and, when all's said and done, who ends up paying for, the (hypothetical) repair bill...??? (he's in the mirror...lol)………..Please..."Don't"...use the spark plug that you listed, and here's why...…….14 mm (millimeter) outside diameter screw-threads, are "Larger" in diameter, than, the 12 mm spark plug's screw-threads...!!!...and the 12 mm will fit very "loose" (if at all), inside the engine's cylinder head's screw-threads, and, as I see it, will "strip-out" (ruin and damage...big time), the cylinder head's screw-threads...!!!...and you'll probably have to replace the cylinder head or heads, as the case may be, and cost-wise, is probably well over $1,000 (dollars), at the very least...!!!...……….The spark plug's electrode "Gaps", are also different from each other as well...…...The larger the spark plug "Gap", the harder the ignition coil/or coils, will have to work, to produce a spark, and, if that Gap gets too Big, then sometimes, an ignition coil could get damaged/destroyed, quite possibly...……..So yeah, please do, stay with the factory/manufacturer's..."Originally"...installed spark plugs, or maybe, a very bad day, it just might be (and I hope not), and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.