Spindexer Indexer 3

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Mark, The only problem with it is moving from one hole to the next if you have a bunch of holes. Its nice for small taps where its hard to gauge the down feed when tapping and you don't want the quill spring pulling on your little threads. Best, Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Dan, Thanks for the comment and feedback. Comments like yours help make the channel better for everybody. Regards, Tom

[@georgejr2640]

Tom. Abbreviate all you want with the repeat operations. Its your variety, and excellent explanations that keep me coming back. Great job. I think you have just doubled the price of all the spindexers on e-bag.

[@Dan.Whiteford]

Since you asked I prefer to see a repeated action a couple of times as this can confirm what I have just observed, speeded up or abbreviation beyond that is fine so long as it is clear by explanation what one has to do to complete this part of the project. I particularly like, and find it most helpful, when you gave the brief analysis of the source and choice of materials for this task. Don't worry about the mistake - we all make them all the time and far more frequently than you do!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jon, Thanks for the comment and good suggestions. I did consider a spring loaded pin earlier on. I decided since some of the channel viewers don't have access to cool resources like McM that we would do the parts as simply as possible. After reading your note I went back and had a look at the retractable pins in McMaster and really like the look of them. I have another indexer project in mind and these pins would be perfect for. Regards, Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Earl, Thanks for the comment and feedback. Those extra tapped holes add up to a lot of extra megs of video size. Regards, Tom

[@RVJimD]

Tom, What a great series! I just bought a spin indexer the other day and don't even have it yet but searched for videos on its use. There are so many great tips and techniques presented in the series, I'll have to watch the entire series a few more times just to retain it all! Thanks Again! The format worked fine for me, Jim

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jim, Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Chris, You may be right. I should probably check it again. The inserts in that cutter are going off so it could be pushing a little also. Good suggestion on checking the head. Its past due like my car registration. Best, Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Bill, There was enough room to put the hole in the right place. I now have a collar with a four hole asymmetric radial bozo pattern. If I had made the disc out of anything but clear plastic nobody would ever see it again. Best, Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jack, Thanks for the nice comment. How are things on the island? Best, Tom

[@rsmetal6805]

Great video set Tom! Got all the parts and will be able to do most of the work but I'll be holding off on drilling all the wholes till I get my DRO in December... Mistakes suck, especially on video, but it re-emphasizes that we are all human and even seasoned PROS make mistakes.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Togaida, Do your bars have a hole or any other feature at the center of the radius? Is so there is a neat trick for doing what your describe. If there is no hole then doing a full round is a bit of a pain but I can think of a method that might work well. One way I have done this on a belt sander is to make a pivot pin so the operator can only swing the bar in the correct radius. Is this a regular job that comes up for you? Regards, Tom

[@aaronhelmick8051]

Hey Tom, Thanks for all the great info on your videos, I am in the last few terms of college and all the extra information I can pick up from you and Adam is great.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Aaron, Thanks for the comment. What are you studying? Cheers, Tom

[@aaronhelmick8051]

oxtoolco Hey Tom, I'm studying for my A.A.S. in machining.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Skippy, I generally prefer to use a smaller cutter and make multiple passes instead of trying to cut the entire surface in one whack. Best, Tom

[@bamffrolek]

Hi tom. love the vids. very informative and overall interesting. To answer your question about skipping the "dry" parts. I enjoy seeing the operations even if you fast forward. but up to you! keep it up!

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Bamm, The less HD file size the better. I don't want to trim it back so far that folks cant get the idea whats going on. I'm trying to balance file size, processing and content to give the best with the minimal amount of headache. Thanks for the feedback. Best, Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Tyler, I tried to do some inserts into the main video. I don't think Windows Live Movie maker supports that. I do have two camera's now so in theory it is possible. Best, Tom

[@Opinionator52]

I like it when you show the how to of your setup and the first little bit of the operation, also a bit of high speed adds some fun, with sound even. Another thing for the upstarts might be to verbally touch on other setups that may depend on how critically accurate the tolerance... There's nothing wrong with shooting for perfection, but we all make mistakes, no matter how many hash marks we wear on our sleeves. There are quite often several correct ways to do a job! Great video quality! :o] O,

[@garyshirinian]

I've been watching videos like this . I also done my indexing attachment except I ground the back side first on surface grinder then I clamp it on a precision angle plate , then I indicated the base like you did then got center it and machined the sides , added mounting holes to the base also made a 5/8 grooved X and Y access so I could also hole directly on the milling table. Nice work though.

[@billdlv]

Tom looks good so far I agree with Dan W on the edits. What did you do to fix your oops on the collar, did you have another collar?

[@skippy1460]

Thank you tom I love your vids I learn a lot from your vids and hop to become a mechanist I a few years.

[@jonledbetter9941]

Hi Tom, first time commentor here. Thank you so much for your videos , I really enjoy watching and learning. The only question I have is did you ever consider using a spring loaded pull pin for you locater. we use them on some of our dies and they work great and they are in the McMaster Carr book. Anyway thanks again for your videos

[@r777w]

With three screws in the lexan disk on the stop collar...how do you tighten the stop collar? Did you overdrill the whole sizes for the attachment screws? I haven't watched the whole series yet, so if you have answered the question never mind. Thanks for all of your videos. I really enjoy them.

[@oxtoolco]

+Noxious Green Hi Green, The disc and collar both fit the shaft well. There is enough spring in the system that the collar clamps to the shaft securely. The movement is probably less that one thousandth between the screws and collar. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Robin, Seasoned is the right word. Past the sell date in my case.... Best, Tom

[@mechaform]

How would you go about ensuring that you were facing the ends perpendicular to the spindle bore?

[@petesnell5116]

Hi Tom. Great videos. Could you show or elaborate on how you get the 'contour' movements at about 18:40? Are you engaging one machine feed and handcranking the other axis? I'm just curious about how you do it so smoothly. Just practice?

[@samueltaylor4989]

Pete Snell yes

[@adamglass2599]

When you made the comment about 'downstairs in the hardware store', I immediately thought of that old Ace Hardware on University? in Berkeley that had the downstairs hobby section. I'm sure i killed some time down there as a student.

[@MaxPower_Designs]

Hi Tom, first gotta say love all your videos. I'm diesel mechanic by trade but i love machining, i just started to learn and I've been hook watching the videos all night for the past 2 weeks, the wife is getting annoyed cause i don't pay attention to her. Now i had little questions regarding this project: 1- When machining the sides of the indexer could you of left and edge at the top so you don't need to use parallels for quick set up? 2- On your mini pallet block did you installed steel threaded insert or is it tapped directly in the aluminum 3- Last one; did you machined those little strap clamps or it's bought item? Thanks Max

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Max, Thanks for the comment and questions. You could machine the indexer that way but then you are holding less and cant sink it into the vise further if you want to. No thread inserts in the mini pallet. The idea is you surface it once in a while to keep it really nice. The strap clamps I made but there is a guy making them. Check out. www.rwlsystems.com/Clamps.html Cheers, Tom

[@marko99butter]

never thought to loosen the collet and use that to guide the tap. great tip

[@skippy1460]

Hello tom. I was wondering why you did not use a fly caster end mill

[@marko99butter]

on my list of projects to do is a little hand crank tap fixture. I do a lot of 4-40 and it would be nice to have

[@JRo250]

Gee Tom, for a moment there I thought I was looking at a CNC mill. Nice going with those X/Y controls.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi J, Thats what's called TomNC. Thanks for the comment. Best, Tom

[@inmyshedwithbc.]

Hi from Aus. How did you check the casting bore for square and parallel to the reference sides? Keep up the good vids.

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Bernie, I don't actually remember what I did. Most likely used the bore and the bearing counterbore as reference surfaces. Since its round the radial orientation was whatever the original was. Large bottom face made parallel to bore first then ends perpendicular to bore axis parallel to one another. Sides perpendicular to bottom and ends. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@chrisstephens6673]

Hi Tom, if it's not the head. your bed could be sagging due to loose gibs, see if it is better if you tighten the Z. that's Zed not Zee, locks and preload with your Z handle. What am I doing?! telling the master what to do.;>)

[@jonell7709]

Tom I have been asking around for help and info; I just got a spindexer and I have a question for you, I don't know if I should ask for a replacement. I have lookeng at a lot videos to see if others read the same as this one does. if I put the pin in the 0 hole the arrow is pointing at one deg. if I put the pin in the number 9 hole the arrow pointer is at zero. for some reason I think that the arrow should read zero and the pointer should also read zero. if they all are made this bad I don't think that I will try to ask for a new one.....Jon Ell, Thanks

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jon, The one I have here sits on the zero of the degree wheel when the pin is in the zero hole on the casting. Sounds like something might be wrong. I would take it apart and see if there is a way to rotate the degree wheel and reset the index mark. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@BedsitBob]

That was a longwinded way, to set up for machining the sides. What's wrong with just clamping it in the vice, base down?

[@skippy1460]

Lol I was laughing so much when you reaized the 2 hole was in the wrong place, I do that so many times make parts for a robot

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Skippy, The only thing that makes it worse is doing it on camera! Now that extra hole will me a constant reminder of the attack of the Bozon's Best, Tom

[@jaycole9119]

Hope you don't mind if I blatantly copy that hold down plate and the small clamps? ;)

[@oxtoolco]

Hi erynthgrey, Congratulations on your speedy typing. You win the secret prize. Regards, Tom

[@BedsitBob]

Couldn't you have used the Bolt hole circle option, on the DRO?

[@gentharris]

That mini pallet setup is cool did you make that stuff or have I just missed it in the MSC big book?

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Gent, I made it myself. Working on a tool crib where you can buy stuff like the mini pallet system and other cool Ox swag. Stay tuned. Regards, Tom

[@gentharris]

oxtoolco AWESOME I hope you get stinking rich!!!

[@chrisstephens6673]

Hi Tom, Do we detect your mill out of tram? Tut Tut! KUTGW (keep up the good work) chris

[@aserta]

The quiet "damn it" makes this, sorry but it was just too funny. :))

[@oxtoolco]

That was right when Mr Bozo made his cameo appearance. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@MaturePatriot]

Yeah, that second hole didn't look quite right.

[@SlowEarl1]

Tom, Another great video with some great tips.I think its a good idea not to show on video every drilled and tapped whole you need to do it allows for more content in the video.keep up the great work I really appreciate what you do.

[@tylercunningham3275]

Feel free to abbreviate. I don't think I've seen to many shots of the DRO, you could put a little DRO in the corner of the screen then I can directly follow along with the blueprint the I printed out! Just a thought.

[@mclarpet]

Why not clamp the collar to the shaft and get just the right spacing for that gap - it might avoid straining the plastic disc ?

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jester, That's what the shims were for. The shaft was not as easy to set up and I didn't feel like turning a new one. Cheers, Tom

[@mclarpet]

oxtoolco I bet that you measured the gap in the collar before you dismounted it !

[@sass1ap]

did you use ordinates for the 127 holes ?

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Alex, Honestly no I didn't. I cheated and did them on the CNC mill. Hey but I could have done them with ordinates. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@sass1ap]

not cheating to me ;)

[@one4stevo]

Great video Tom :)

[@erynthegrey]

Great video! Wait... Maybe I should watch it first before commenting. LOL!

[@oxtoolco]

Where were you when I needed you? I'm going to stamp your name next to that extra hole. Cheers, Tom

[@c6quad3]

43:13 dude...leave the Pink Floyd playing man! lol Shine On!!!

[@mpetersen6]

an easier way to machine the sides parallel to the centerline and the same distance from the centerline is use two vee blocks, round stock or the quill from the unit, and an angle plate. the round stock or quill is through the bore and resting in the vee blocks. the base is then clamped to the side of the angle plate. rough the sides and then take a finish pass on both sides. another useful modification is to mill a keyway on center to fit you mill plus one at 90° to the first keyway. then just clamp the indexer right to the table. especially useful on smaller hobbiest mills with limited daylight between the spindle and the table

[@oxtoolco]

Hi M, Good ideas there. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom

[@lesthompson5907]

interesting project i have a 100 tooth , drive gear on my lath & & to cut it & used a 50 circle hole by making my indexes plate out of black, Derom , rown bar , To drill the holes. I used a 50 hole , gear. on my index Shaft, to set the gear centers , of my hols. so when needing a gear cut , i just rotated twice. & produce 100. teeth. I get it & the reality is that all teeth can be cut up to one hundred . Holes by splitting the dimiter. & the number of hold to cut , I get you idea of continuous hole briling . But for larger radius we must revert to diameter by design & it relason ship to tooth size ,

[@marko99butter]

I liked the idea of squaring off the flanges and cutting them down to fit in the Kurt. Duh, why didn't I think of that. Anyway my indexer is now much more usable..

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Mark, It seems like they should come already prepped. But maybe that's why they can sell them for $50 bucks. Best, Tom

[@samueltaylor4989]

Well, they can sell them for $50 cause they are made in China.

[@nathanielharms9931]

The indexer spring does not travel left and right it swings in an arc this will force you to create one extremely fat gear and one extremely narrow gear guaranteed to bind and possibly even chip

[@oxtoolco]

Hi Jay, Whatever you see here is fair game. Send us a picture of your completed blatant copy. Regards, Tom

[@jaycole9119]

Nice one

[@princebatswater]

Tom! You see what happens when I'm not watching you!!!

[@samueltaylor4989]

At 26:00, skip the indicating to 30:00, can’t see a damn thing.

[@calvinbrown3213]

ya know at 56 kbs this video took at least 2 hours to view if not more

[@abidansari9467]

Disk or plate cam spindexr send me

[@skippy1460]

Lol