Sport Climbing Progression Series - Novice | 5.7 to 5.9

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If you’re brand new to climbing, this is a great place to start. While the high walls of a climbing gym may seem intimidating, they are one of the best training grounds to help you ease into this sport. We’re go over all the important components to get you started. This video will focus on the safety elements of tying a knot, proper belay method, and the basic techniques of climbing efficiently. Please note, if you’re already familiar with knot tying and belaying, you can go ahead and skip directly to the climbing technique portion.
Intro: (0:08)
Insta360 GO2: (0:57)
Tying Your Knot: (1:42)
Belay Method: (3:30)
Climbing Technique: (7:30)
Outro: (10:32)

[@VPgaming-97]

Would love more of this series, just now getting to 5.10 and man they are tougher.

[@provuksmc6619]

Pro Tip for every newby tired of the hatd to untie figure 8: Learn the double bowlin! (Dunno of Translation is correct, in my language doppelter bulin)

[@404JNF]

Yesss! I’ve been following your bouldering series, wondering if you’d ever branch into sport. Can’t wait to hear your tips!!

[@matthewlau42]

Although the video itself is amazing, I do feel like you should put like warning at the front that all climbers should learn the knots and belaying basics through local gym staff. I mean safety is safety

[@Phoenixhunter157]

Gyms won’t let you climb rope routes without learning through the gym staff and getting certified. I haven’t heard of any gyms in the u.s atleast that just let you walk in and start climbing without taking belay and tie in lessons /testing

[@michaelkork6773]

Good video but be aware that there were scenes where when belaying to teach belaying you didn’t always bring your hand to the brake position, the B in PBUS, before going under with the other hand, the U. 3:44 for an example. I’m certain no one was in danger as it was with a grigri and that was the standard for how to belay in the past, but as this is a teaching video intended for beginners i think it’s probably important to not show improper technique unless explaining the error in it. I’m stoked for the higher grade episodes to come!

[@klmonsalud]

When is the next one??

[@JordanGreenPNW]

Been hoping you would do a series like this, can't wait for the next video!

[@hikingleigh]

Yes, thank you for the beginners sport climbing series! I’m stuck at 5.9s, can sometimes do the 5.10as but would love to progress further. Also, can you show your specific set up for the 360 cam that shows your full body? I imagine it’s on a selfie stick but wondering where you mounted the stick- down the back of your harness or something?? Thanks!

[@WhiteEyeTree]

Just a little trick, he doesn't tighten the figure 8 for educational purposes but you should always tighten the figure 8 by grabbing the knot with one hand and pull on each strand that goes out. If you take a fall, or after you finish rapelling down from the route it will be much, much easier to untie. Also make sure it is properly dressed (no overlaps and crossovers), that also helps a lot with untying it later. Happy climbing!

[@willawang6635]

Would love to see more in this series, especially how to transfer to outdoor

[@kuyshina]

Aye aye I know pacific pipe when I see it. What do you think of that gym?

[@zacharylaschober]

Interestingly you use a smaller ibeam positron for an atc while a larger hms style rocklock for a grigri. Smaller surface area lockers are great for camming devices where the rope never interacts with the carabiner, but you want a broader area for the rope to run over with tubular devices. Not dangerous, simply smoother and will somewhat extend the life of your gear.

[@Mykl0000]

Post 5.10+!

[@arcranda]

How's this series coming? I'm excited for the next installment!

[@hounshmunshi1683]

Real talk. Sooooooo excited for this series to keep going

[@joshruggles2706]

How did you like Pacific Pipe? Great content as always!

[@Bella-vj4zz]

Excited to see more of this series. Excited for tips for the 5.11 range & for making the jump from Top Rope to Lead.

[@sighcai]

Yay! There's so many videos on bouldering out there, it's refreshing to see content focusing on sport climbing. I'm trying to convince my parents to give climbing a shot when they visit me. This is the perfect video to share with them, especially since they're particularly concerned about how safe this activity is. Thanks! Looking forward to your videos on climbing 11s! I'm stuck at the 11b range and am hoping to cleanly top my first 11d by my 1-year mark of climbing. Keep up the great work!

[@pablogarcianieto9988]

The best series of the channel now focusing in sports climbing. Love it! Can't wait for the next vid

[@onewingedsongbird]

Will this series be continuing? I just started top rope after years of bouldering and enjoy how you break movement down.

[@benja_mint]

would be exited to see a couple more of these, as paralel to the bouldering progression series. i'd be waiting for your perspective on 5.12+ but i can imagine there is another video inbetween 5.9 and 5.12 ;)

[@TimothyLeeMSOTCPT]

I see some footage from Pacific Pipe! It's across the bridge from me but it's definitely an amazing gym I need to go to more often!

[@thomasb429]

While teaching the PBUS method i noticed there was no knot at the end of the brake rope, this should always be the case! I prefer a double figure 8 at the end but as I understand it a regular figure 8 is also enough.

[@AmbroseEzzat]

Very excited for this series, as a new climber and boulderer looking to branch out and learn to sport climb! Hope the second video comes out soon! :)

[@leftcoastbeard]

With regards to the brake end of the rope, don't forget to show how to tie a stopper knot. The gyms that I climb at, for legal/insurance reasons, always have a knot tied and zap-strapped on the "brake" end. There have been a lot of incidents in the news recently around climbers who failed to tie a stopper knot, most of them fatal. Edit: Also, belayers should also ensure that loose clothing is tucked in and long hair/beards tied back out of the way to avoid getting caught in the belay device.

[@VellaEW]

A stopper knot comes easily undone and should not be tied for extra support, but only to ensure that the "tail" is long enough. The people who fell probably tied their double eight-knot wrong, because it shouldn't fail with or without a stopper knot, if tied properly.

[@leftcoastbeard]

@@VellaEW The stopper knot goes on the brake end, on the ground next to the belayer, to prevent the rope from going though/leaving the belay device and not to clean up the tail on the climber end. A tail that is too long can be easily taken up by feeding back though the double figure-eight.

[@VellaEW]

@@leftcoastbeard Ah I totally skipped the first part of your first sentence, my bad!

[@Stijnvandijck1]

Actually started yesterday with my toprope course, timing couldn’t be better!!

[@xvyvux]

wow I think this is the best intro to ropes video I have ever seen, it is so detailed and goes over everything required to start climbing top rope. Will definitely share this with anyone I introduce to climbing.

[@selenasina4364]

Great video, waiting for the next one!

[@lolofuk87]

looking forward for this series :)

[@coasterb1]

On the figure 8 knot, I learned to check for 5 points on the knot for side by side rope to make sure it is tied correctly.

[@forrestmorrisey]

Love your channel man!

[@KnightofHonorMC]

Keep this series up!

[@VictorZepeda22]

Great stuff

[@AnAmateurAdventurer]

Awesome!

[@ennaturligforklaring9569]

I think you should focus mainly on the movement as you’re done so well so far. I didn’t like your part about safety. I found it lacking and there are plenty of better videos on the subject (although I would always suggest that people take a course instead of learning safety from people on KZbin).

[@larathompson1981]

Also curious about how you film the POV that hovers above and behind the climber. Stefano Ghisolfi recently posted a full 360 video shot from that POV.

[@koenbeeckman87]

just watching, there are other ways to learn figure aight, best way to put rope trhough harnas is to go from up to down not the other way because your changes of flipping upside down are more reduced that way

[@luke3491]

Great job I'm doing 5.11s and working on 5.12 but mostly 7a+ rn. Good job I've been doing it for 4 months I advice doing pullups helps a lot.

[@lol5566E]

How do I check if my double figure 8 is tied correctly?

[@joel7190]

Started this year on easter (April 16th to be exact) and 1 month and 2 climbs later i really started going every second day (used to play hockey on elite youth level, but retired due to mental issues when i was 16, thats 3 years ago, and since then i'm working construction, so i was already pretty fit) currently climb 6b+/5.10d without any big problems, but 6c/5.11a and above is still pretty tough for me and i'm not always able to fully climb them... I was wondering what u guys think about my progress... looking forward✌️cheers from switzerland✌️✌️

[@marcus4619]

Oh man you are left handed lol. The tie was confusing for a second like am I doing this wrong?

[@gfm8421]

pull forward,not up. by pulling up you get rid of the break properties of your belay device (second bend over the edge of the device) which is not what you want at any time. don't let the rope run through your hands when lowering someone. it is much safer and more controlled to feed the rope into the device while always having a firm grip on the rope. Stopper Knot! Close the system at any time! It's good and safe manners. i like you teaching the movement techniques - but leave the safety aspects to trained people. learn the rules correctly in order to know how to break them properly. Tipps for People that are concerned for safety issues - look at people teaching from the European Alps, we know how to do it...

[@pederhindborg1072]

Looks like your carabiner is open and not locked at 7:22.

[@zacharylaschober]

Nope, the BD Rocklocks are fully open at that silver ring and only screw about halfway over the nose.

[@burnsbabe87]

I'm excited to see this go up. I've been watching the bouldering series, and am getting more into sport myself. It was an extra surprise to see you on the trophy wall at Pacific Pipe in the video opener. If you see me around sometime, say hi.

[@BigDickMark]

Super exited for this series. When are we gonna get the second vid?