Sprite and Midget rear end rebuild - Part 2 (Differential)

[@nagaraworkshop]

Great video and very helpful. Though I've been working on these axles, on and off, for nearly 50 years I've not rebuilt one from scratch before because, back in the day here in the UK, there were many, many small engineering shops all over the country that would provide exchange rebuilt diffs for a very reasonable price. i never had to do the job. But these days there are very few shops that do the job and those that do are expensive. I've replaced bearing and spacers a few times on other diffs with good results using stock replacement parts with little measuring needed. Your video is invaluable.

[@nexus7tablet610]

The installed bearing preload will be less on a used pinion because of wear on the bearings. Resetting the preload (crushing spacer more) could increase your backlash and reduce the pinion height.

[@tankosl]

Really helpful video, thanks very much for posting...….I now feel happier at attempting my Morris Minor!

[@charlesv20]

Very usefull video! Thanks a lot!

[@majikthyse]

Very helpful. I tried putting the shims outside the bearing as described, but found it difficult. There should be a 0.002" bearing pinch so they will be tight, and it's very tricky to get the shims in place without catching on the edges of the caps. I improved this by breaking the sharp edges on the caps with a file and emery paper, but still difficult if you are forced to use a thin shim. I have another diff which is way out of spec for backlash and may be beyond redemption - with no shims on the right side there is nowhere else to go! The teeth look perfect and I would like to restore a unit that is otherwise fine. any ideas?

[@minimania]

Yes, it's very finicky for sure. It's best to fit the thicker shims towards the outside as they'll resist crumpling better. For your other diff, you may need to swap that unit with another pumpkin to try and get the correct backlash - or just change the internal cage.

[@TheAdamwest29]

How did you seal the diff in the axle? Gasket? Permatex high tack on both side of gasket??

[@afhostie]

So if you just wanted to replace the seal on the front of the diff you have to pull the entire thing and replace the crush sleeve?

[@minimania]

You can mark the nut and pinion so that when you replace the seal and put it back together you can torque the nut so that the sleeve preload is intact. Just remember to count the revolutions when removing the nut and replicate it when it goes back together.

[@jacquespoirier9071]

I learned that when rebuilding an old rear axle it 's better to retain the adjustments the gears have when they wear together, otherwise, the rear axle will be noisy.

[@minimania]

That's true in most instances, yes. It's also why you don't want to swap the axles left to right - they also wear in one direction only.

[@jamesworsham125]

Do you guys have the outer shims?

[@paulmillar4774]

Do you have shims for an MGA differential? It looks like it may be the same size side bearings? The MGB banjo differential is the same also as the MGA.

[@minimania]

No sorry. We don't source parts for either MGA's or B's.

[@paulmillar4774]

@@minimania , out of curiosity though, what are the measurements of the shims? They may work with the MGA/B bearings. It would be a huge time saver, and end the need for special tools, like the clamshell bearing puller.

[@nexus7tablet610]

Are there no tabbed thrust washers available? Like the ones used in the classic mini 4 pin diff.

[@minimania]

No, the diffs in these cars never had cages with recesses to accept the tabbed thrust washers.

[@csteinmayer71]

Can I send you my 1962 Sprite rear diff to rebuild?

[@minimania]

Yes you can. Contact Ed D'Arata: [e-mail].

[@wad_bruce_inc7684]

Torque setting for the differential?

[@nexus7tablet610]

What are the dimensions of the differential planetary gear shaft?

[@minimania]

The 2A7016 diff pins are .561" in diameter and are 3.688" long.

[@allenhanford]

17:10 pinion magically removes itself and sits on bench.

[@TheAdamwest29]

Ya. Too bad for that edit, I was hoping to learn how to remove the seal as I need to replace mine.

[@allenhanford]

@@TheAdamwest29 the seal is pretty easy. Mark the end of the shaft and the nut so you can get it back to the exact same spot. Pry the seal out and press the new one in. There's no shoulder so just push it down till it's flush with the housing. Again make sure you get the nut back exactly the same as when you took it apart. If you over-tighten you'll have to get a new crush spacer.

[@stephenauty2402]

Yeah, all I want to know is how to remove the pinion shaft, do you just tap it in to the casing once you've removed the nut and flange?.

[@rickybelisle3144]

What is the secret to torquing the hub nut while the axle is off the car?

[@minimania]

Yes, you have to isolate it so it doesn't spin on you. Have someone sit on the pumpkin? That might do it. You can also have a buddy wedge a long breaker bar into the bump stop bracket(s) to counteract the spin. The whole assembly is fairly heavy with the differential attached so it's not as difficult as you might think. Use a long extension handle or pipe on the torque wrench, too. With the added leverage you can add torque slowly & smoothly without straining and jerking things around - and possibly going past the target.

[@majikthyse]

I used a piece of 1" angle iron with 2 bolts that go in to the drive flange. The diff sits on the portable workbench with the angle iron laid out on it.

[@billadams5194]

That's called a brake drum, not a hub