Spyderco Gauntlet Part 1 | Sharpener Demo & Z-Cut vs Victorinox Rematch!

Fine edge performance comparison between the King 1K / 6K whetstone and the Spyderco Gauntlet sharpener's ceramic rods!
Also check out my tutorials on dual grit sharpening.
What's a dual grit edge, you may ask?
Think: high performance aggressive knife edge!!! This method for versatile razor sharp knives is fast, easy, and leads to edge retention increases of up to 50% in some tasks! Watch my tutorials to quickly learn innovative hand sharpening techniques with whetstone, diamond plate, & honing strop.
The dual grit method is a specific method for sharpening one side of the edge coarse and the other fine - an updated tutorial is below:
kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6i2mIGEqJd8ibc
And the results have been observed by independent testing:
kzbin.info/www/bejne/mKezlZVjo5iSlbM
If you're curious about the science behind the edge mechanics, check out this scienceofsharp.com article in which Dr. Todd Simpson analyzes the effect:
scienceofsharp.com/2021/06/15/dual-grit-sharpening/
Please consider supporting me on Patreon if this helps you,
www.patreon.com/thehomeslice?fan_landing=true
Whether your passion is bushcraft knives, survival blades, hunting & fishing knives, edc knives, or kitchen knives - this method could revolutionize the way you sharpen your knives and make your edge last longer!!!
#thehomeslicesharpening #dualgritedge #dualgrittest

[@helterskelter156]

As a side point, remember that paper sheets have a grain. It is easier to cut most paper sheets across the longer side than the narrower side. Thanks for the video comparison.

[@homeslicesharpening]

Wow, I have never ever heard that. Cool! Thanks.

[@helterskelter156]

@@homeslicesharpening The difference can be astounding, when it comes to actual testing, depending on the type of paper you’re cutting. Cheers!

[@BradGryphonn]

Thanks, mate. This was interesting. I upgraded from the WS Field Sharpener and bought the Worksharp Guided Sharpening system with the upgrade kit. I'm pleased with the results so far.

[@nandayane]

The guided sharpening system is one of the most under-rated sharpening systems that I never really hear people talk about.

[@homeslicesharpening]

Good to hear from you! That's awesome! I have been thinking about trying a WorkSharp lately... Maybe I'll take the plunge!

[@gonad84]

I have one and like it. My kitchen knives are better now than when I bought them.

[@darksi226]

Missed your last vid. Great update. I have one of the spydercos and I am not fond of the bd1. Doesn't stay sharp as long as my Henkel, from a wood block set. I expected more. I have a manix in bd1 that i actually like. Thanks for the vids.

[@homeslicesharpening]

Thanks man! I am liking the BD1N overall. Seems to stay keener, but seems to take damage more easily than the Victorinox. I probably need to work out better deburring practices for it, but it's always being used by my wife, lol.

[@mikeobrien4081]

Looking forward to the tests! I've been using my own Z-Cut more and I'm still on the fence about it. The slight lateral warp in mine is very distracting on such a thin blade (thick for a paring knife, thin for a board knife, master of none...). From my own experience chasing burrs on Spyderco ceramics (DoubleStuff pocket stone and a single UF rod used horizontally like a bench stone), I've come to the conclusion that you really need to go by feel to deburr on these stones. Forget about counting strokes or keeping an equal number of strokes per side, just keep working the edge with light pressure until the whole length of both sides feels completely smooth and uniform. Clean the stone frequently too (just a wipe with soapy water or mineral oil works well). Using a couple of super-light finishing strokes at a slightly elevated angle also seems to help. Using the stones as directed is fine for putting a quite good edge on knives that are just ok, or slightly dull, but IMO they need some finessing to get nerd-pleasing results. Have you seen K Knives Switzerland's latest sharpening vid? He mentions adjusting his grip on the stone holder of his Wicked Edge, holding it higher as he moves to finer grits (where "Up" means towards the apex and "Down" means towards the spine). He says this imparts a 0.1 degree change in angle per adjustment, which helps to deburr in the course of sharpening (he is using very well treated, very hard steel though, so burring is already less of a problem than softer, batch-treated steels). It's similar in principle to what I've been trying lately in free-hand sharpening, where I deliberately hold the cutting bevel evenly flat on the stone but I "feel" with different parts of the bevel as I progress through grits. So, when roughing I'll "feel" the stone with the upper shoulder, then on the refining step I'll "feel" with the middle of the bevel, and then when finishing I'll "feel" with the apex (or the extreme edge of the bevel approaching the apex, to be ultra-picky about definitions). It seems to me that this follows two important principles: 1) burr management is something to do throughout the sharpening process, and 2) different operations require different angles, even in the context of creating a single "final" angle. I've been enjoying all the great content lately, keep up the good work! (But don't burn yourself out!)

[@sabelfechter7136]

I thin at 10dps creating a relief bevel. Then i use a sharpening stone sized piece of plastic with thin silicon sheet glued on it. On that SiC sandpaper, with cluestick or spray. Due to the evened out pressure it bends the apex less, the burr is extremly tiny and thin, 10 alternating passes per side give a 0.1mm 15dps microbevel thats quite stable. Then 15passes per side on a long strop instanly remove all left burr. Getting it in the 50 BESS range. This 0.1mm edge still only takes 0.001-0.002mm damage with normal use, and 0.05mm with really hard twisting carving using shitty steel. With that method i only ever had problem with burr on a single knive, i wonder how extremly soft that was.

[@homeslicesharpening]

Thank you Mike - that is congruent with my feel and findings!!! Sabelfechter I am interested to try this - What kind of silicon sheet do you use, and exactly how thick?

[@aceman1126]

I love my sharpmaker. I use it for touch ups all the time and it works great BUT i still think for the money a lansky is more versatile and i seem to be able to get crazy sharp edges with it much easier. Also, god help you if you need to reprofile with the sharpmaker and other similar rigs lol The sharpmaker and gauntlet systems are like freehand sharpening with training wheels... its easy to get it wrong but the system helps guide you whereas the lansky is about foolproof. You would have to intentionally do something dumb to get it wrong.

[@homeslicesharpening]

Interesting! Thanks for the feedback!

[@homeslicesharpening]

Yes, that is what I'm doing now. Rough calculation, easiest way I've found is this: 1) Measure spine thickness in mm (we'll call that T), and measure the highest point of the blade grind (we'll call that G) 2) Take T divided by 2 (because we are only interested in the angle of one side, not both) 3) Divide this new number [T/2] by G 4) On your iPhone calculator, unlock phone and turn sideways to access scientific functions. Hit the 2nd button, then take the inverse sine (sin-1) of the number you currently have AKA grind angle = sin-1[(T/2)/G] This doesn't take into account behind-the-edge thickness. So if you want to be a pedantic ultra-nerd, you can measure the BTE thickness and subtract from T before you divide by 2... Also an option. Hope that helps, cheers!