Sram Code, Guide, Level - Bleeding NOT Exactly According To The Manual.

How to bleed your hydraulic brakes? It is not complicated, but I'm posting here one trick, that Sram manual doesn't mention.
4:30 after bleeding the system it is good idea to bleed the lever itself
How to service a whole bike: • Your ALL-IN-ONE Bike M...

[@pmoormann]

Definitely buying XTRs after seeing this

[@rorosi4163]

The brake was still spongy

[@giver666]

Sram tak już ma.

[@TheNotoriousMIC]

You’ve mixed the old dirty fluid with your new clean fluid. All you need to do is push the old fluid out with clean from the calliper upwards this will take any air with it and the bleed the lever by gently pulling on the syringe while flicking the brake leaver to get the rest of the air out.

[@willyf1847]

This procedure IS exactly according to the manual.

[@robbhardesty3033]

X

[@themtchannel2110]

you get 'all done' then show the lever pulling back to the grip! uggh :(

[@morriss4321]

Or get Shimanos and bleed both brakes and have all your equipment clean to boot in under 10 minutes.......

[@smallhatshatethetruth7933]

yeah a lot of mess made in this one

[@rorosi4163]

Yeah because he doesn't doing it right i bleed my sram guide rsc for no time no mess

[@ProMountainBiker]

I’ll stick to shimano lol. This is complicated

[@mrsmartypants_1]

This is exactly like the Sram video for Guide brakes with “bleeding edge” technology (2015 and later). Only the Sram video does it significantly better. Here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eoPXXnaGZ9FnbZY

[@mirouol818]

Oh nice, i just did mine last week for the first time, and happy to see that i did the right way

[@keeganallembert4193]

What is the reason for setting the brake lever to 75-80 mm??

[@Chromedome-ss6mg]

What is that rockshox remote for? 2 lines?

[@---fc3sl]

Huuummmm, je préfère la simplicité Shimano.......

[@miroslavfreerider3439]

OMG thank you for this video FINALLY i got out from SPONY lever!!! Before i did the same but I closed caliper and made vacuum on top. But I see where I was wrong. Should keep caliper open. Thank you! Before I had AVID CODE grey ones and old style bleeding system, does not work the same on new ones!

[@Liqweed1337]

and now imagine you loose so much pressure on 5:10 that if you finish everything, press the lever and the lever wont come out fully (retains 50% of pressed state). i am going crazy with this problem. my thought is, that there still is air in the system because the brake was fully disassembled, but i did the bleeding process like 5 times... i even tried a different approach, i closed the lever screw first, turned the bike upside down and then gave a little more pressure from the caliper side wich is now ontop, so most of the fluid stays in when closing. brake works fine now, but still spongy tho. ill just try aggain until im 100% sure there is no air inside.

[@spagutti]

Did you ever solve the problem?

[@Liqweed1337]

@@spagutti i actually did, yes. The problem was the piston inside the brake. After a long time the pistons wich are made out of plastic (and rubber sealings) swell a few mm in diameter wich makes the piston inside getting "jammed" if you press it, closing the whole system. The solution is simple: Disassemble the brake, get those pistons out and use sandpaper to bring them back to ~9.25mm OR buy new pistons made of metal (i think its aluminium or steel... The brand is called "Risk") I bought the metal pistons wich already came with new rubber sealings. Payed ~ 10$ each. Installed them, put everything back together and voilla, brake is brand new and snappy aggain and definately will never swell aggain because they are made out of metal. I found a great video on youtube, search for: "Sram Guide braking lever sluggish or jammed. Quick fix with the repair kit. Piston replacement" uploaded by SlickBiker

[@spagutti]

@@Liqweed1337 that's amazing, thanks for the long answer! I will probably do that on my brakes. I appreciate the help!

[@patricktas9822]

Stop saying oil it's brakefluid oil will dammage your brakesystem! If it's was oil it woluld dammage your rubber parts inside Put some oil on a rubber cup and you will see the dammage.

[@randomchannel1712]

If you want to burp them just use one syringe on the lever side fill it half with oil and pull like mad without doing anything else Simple and effective way of getting the air out of the system without the need of re-pressuring it

[@bulekridesemtb4342]

Genius :) Thanx

[@randomchannel1712]

@@bulekridesemtb4342 np man

[@kelvinfoote9897]

Not oil. Brake fluid.

[@Robinators]

So.. why is this better than doing it acording to SRAM manual?

[@kaushiksharma8390]

Robinator I’ve used the SRAM video to bleed my brakes at least 4 times. I’m not sure what the difference here is. However I’ve only watched the Guide Brakes version. Maybe it different for Level Brakes.

[@MrMecatalin]

5:26, you forgot to torque the screw

[@cornishcactus]

Almost got it right. Don't push and pull at the lever, remove it once you've done the vac up there ( requires more than just one go at it, 5-10 mins 15-20 pulls at least ) and just pushed back till you feel resistance and replace the plug. Now do the vacuum thing and push and pull at the caliper end with a final push till you get resistance. Then close the port and remove the syringe. far less messy and no loss of pressure ( tho you don't want actual pressure, just not loss ) See slabstaff's method below.

[@anjummohammed2498]

Will try this. I have bled my brakes like 5 times! From the Lever end I create the vac and pressure and the Lever is very firm. But as soon as I remove the brake end syringe and close the bleed nipple. The pressure is lost and the brakes go spongy again. So you are suggesting create the vaccume from the caliper end? Does that retain the pressure and firm brake lever travel?

[@cornishcactus]

@@anjummohammed2498 I do both but finish up on the caliper end. This only applies to calipers with Bleeding edge as it can be shut off. I have no idea why they don't also have it at the lever.

[@anjummohammed2498]

@@cornishcactus OK no problem will five it all go 👍👍

[@ganga72]

finally someone mentioned this. to pressurize the system from the lever end simply doesn't make any sense. the pressure will be lost as soon as you remove the syringe. not sure how can sram advice this. I've tried the standard process, worthless. I'll try the process with finishing on the caliper end, as soon as I'll have time, and will let you know how i worked.

[@anjummohammed2498]

@@ganga72 I haven't tried yet! So please do keep us posted 👍👍

[@DriverDude100]

Good video, but I would suggest using a real brake bleed block or two opposing, inclined wood shims rather than a piece of folded cardboard. For bonus points, the SRAM professional bleed syringes are super nice. The tips of the pro syringes screw into the ports without spinning the syringe body, and the tubing seals to the connectors tightly such that air does not enter the system when pulling back on the plungers. Regardless, a thoroughly bled brake system makes riding even more enjoyable.

[@Larpy1933]

Wow! Professional-quality video. Better, actually. Thanks.

[@pauloposts5953]

Whats the music title?

[@reneh.6551]

Bleeding breaks or servicing suspension yourself are one of those things with Pros and Cons: PROS: You learn a lot, save money on the long run (1 year after buying the required tools), and feeling invencible when you nail it right. CONS: Consuming time looking and waiting for the right tools and specific parts needed to fit your components. Expensive to get the right tools. It is never as easy as in the KZbin tutorials... firts couple of times could be extremely messy and frustrating to get optimal results... and lastly you end taking your bike to the shop, spending money again on the same thing or even more when they have to fix your initial mess😵. So, when my breaks need to be bleeded... I rather take my bike to the shop. In the long run is more expensive, but my happiness and time worth it... 😁🚲

[@Lezz015]

It's okay if you know shop where can bleed brakes properly. In my case I had a car accident after bleeding in the shop. So way better to do this by yourself.

[@George19840223]

I quite enjoy doing such things myself, even if that would cover half of the room in oil on first try and would take and hour to complete

[@stephenandracki3371]

Great video! The best produced!

[@EletronicaCatia]

top. top. perfeita aula

[@surronzak8154]

5:10 mess

[@msk9569]

Love form india

[@tonyparkin3379]

Great vids. Cheers.

[@msk9569]

Nice video

[@fulviomart1]

II of r vivo kg già

[@christinedenis4737]

Bon

[@RomarioPioneer]

Очень неаккуратно.

[@bangtarights2226]

Just buy hope brakes... sram a poo

[@WhosJZN]

hope makes hubs bro.. shimano or magura for brakes

[@bangtarights2226]

@@WhosJZN v4 E4 ❤ all day

[@dfathatgmx]

Shimano - best brakes !

[@ballerbrian4032]

I love my shimanos. I got a new bike with sram guides. i also found out how to make sram brakes feel like shimano brakes. Pretty self explanatory but i haven’t seen videos about it

[@moritz3863]

@@ballerbrian4032 how

[@dudebro29]

Avoid this junk like the plague, anything SRAM makes for that matter. Their warranty is a joke, my bike with less than forty hours on it which is a 2018 Santa Cruz Bronson has literally had every component made by these guys fail and of course it's past their alleged two year warranty. The Reverb dropper (made by SRAM), guide R brakes, and derailleur have all FAILED on what is still a new $5k bike. They wont deal with any consumer personally and you will need to take your bike to your local bike shop where it will sit for an undefined amount of time to be no less than a week at which point they will "determine" based on that LBS feedback whether or not they want to cover their junk product. Waste of money (a lot of it) and more importantly your precious time that could otherwise be spent riding

[@W3r366oo]

People must take care of their bikes. What's wrong with your brakes and derailleur?

[@burtonkicks4806]

Well if it’s past their warranty what do you expect

[@LakesLee]

@@W3r366oo the derailleur's go loose on all the pivot points, well known fact, mine shakes like a dog shitting bones after a few months. Nothing you can do to stop it!

[@LakesLee]

So true, my Hightower had a duff bb and loose derailleur pivots after a very short time. Factor in the fork which needed an "upgrade" part to stop it sinking 25mm made by it's other half company. On the plus side rear mechs can be swapped for shimano and use the same shifter. Guide R brakes spongy as hell and come back to the bars, not good on a new bike.