sRGB or AdobeRGB Color Space? | Ask David Bergman

[@marcusfrank3271]

If you use RAW it doesn't matter what you set, the setting only and exclusively affects the jpg. In jpg you should use sRGB, so you should set the camera to sRGB if you are photographing jpg and RAW. If you then use a jpg, it also has the correct color space. And the RAW is in maximum quality anyway and the color space is only specified when exporting.

[@PanzerIV88]

Reading that comment would have saved me 9min ^^

[@hobbytake2845]

@@PanzerIV88 that should have been in the first sentence. “If you shoot jpg…”

[@longliveclassicmusic]

That's literally what he says in the video. Obviously you didn't even watch it.

[@swamig6150]

@@PanzerIV88 There was a lot explained in the Vid .

[@alivia4907]

Except if your using a template or background from etsy for example (in psd). I recently did a template (which was in Adobe rgb 8 bit but I had it set to srgb 16 bit. After editing and converting it to jpeg, it made the colors off and dull.

[@donprice8925]

I'm happy to see someone talking about this. I've worked in graphic design for many years and have had customers ask me about this very often. sRGB is just the norm.

[@agnieszkakj8867]

That's what I call informative and decent portion of knowledge. Without unnecessary fuss. Thanks a lot and regards from Poland.

[@ihknilsen]

Thanks for the great info! Congratulations on being back on the road! It’s a great feeling, I’m rolling into rehearsals this week and start our tour the 28th.

[@johnleighdesigns]

Thanks David! I had been going back and forth trying each colour space and in the portrait, headdshot and product shoots I do in London at the home studio and on location, just like you say, I find sRGB colour space in camera works great.

[@simonmaduxx6777]

Import as Prophoto if you can (LR, camera raw). Export srgb. (save for web, save as) Printing? Likely srgb or just ask your printer. Done! thanks David!

[@thatcreole9913]

Fantastic. Thank you for clearly spelling it out like this.

[@TomWindeknecht]

Thanks for clarifying, David!

[@chazM6116]

shoot in RAW then edit with the max date i.e. ProPhoto then convert to the required color space you need for the output

[@tonypags5315]

Clear and to the point... That's what we all need for answers. :)

Finally someone explained it thoroughly. Why the hell can't this information be published in camera manuals? For years I use Sony's cameras such as A55, A77, A99, currently A7RIV A. For years I set my cameras to aRGB color space in order to have wider color gamut in RAWs. I was wonder why and how technically color gamut is limited by the camera's firmware. Absolutely nowhere in the manual was mentioned that limited color space is related only to JPGs! Why??? Generally, issue of color spaces, calibrating monitors - especially with LUT memory seems to be top secret knowledge. Even Dell's helpdesk can't answer question how to configure Windows in order to support aRGB (or wider) mode in extremely expensive their monitor (with LUT). What if we have 2 monitors? Primary with LUT, secondary good quality but without LUT? Only long time investigations multiple trials and errors gave me the answer how to configure and calibrate cameras, two types of monitors, printers, operating system (Windows 11) to properly process colors. I probably don't know something anyway. David... in my opinion, if someone use aRGB monitor - always should work in aRGB everywhere - in ACR/Lightroom, Photoshop, camera etc. sRGB should be our final decision to limit color space (eg. before sharing photos). Source material should be as wide in gamut as possible for our hardware. Most of the mobile devices supports wider color spaces than sRGB. Browsers can recognize embedded profile. If some user can't view on their device - it should be his/her problem. Current standard is definitely not sRGB at technical point of view.

[@rj934]

Very good explanation of the issue.

[@raytekkers]

Im using Canon DPP on a MacBook Pro to process RAW files from my R5. When I change the colours from sRGB to Adobe RGB in DPP there is definitely an improvement.

[@policeluber6720]

Shoot Adobe jpeg to cf card and raw to the c fast

[@panomaxstudio8454]

Finally I get answers to my question. Thanks.

[@felixrodriguez4263]

Great way to split the two and it depends how good is your color palette that you can tell the difference when going to print that image. It isn't like one is matching pantone colors like they do in graphics. Best to use K.I.S.S. system that is keep it simple. Nice hair cut David and other good demo

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

LOL thanks! :)

[@avibongo]

Excellent overview. ( and communication skills) Thank you!

[@maysamd4979]

Excellent, thank you for the professional explanation

[@utsadeeproy35]

I shoot in raw ..so no matter for me sRGB or AdobeRGB. RAW always prophoto RGB. We can change later our color space as per our requirement. For web purpose sRGB.

[@nguyenthinhphu5334]

I think you have to hightlight that color space setting on camera is only apply and effect Jpeg pic but not the raw file so if shoot raw then do not need to border abt that setting.

[@GaryHughesOfficial]

Great summary, David, thanks!

[@fanoscharalambous2098]

Great video and knowledge, keep up the great work

[@ME2K23]

When editing a raw file in Lightroom and printing it directly (using the right icc profile /calibrated printer) without saving it 1st, will the print be different from a print that would be coming from the same file, after it was saved with a color profile? If so, in which ways? Will it be noticeable?🤔

[@throwabrick]

"Printing is a whole nother matter." - David Bergman I would of expected better, but their you go!

[@davidpearson3304]

If you’re going to be snarky….at least use the correct there/their. 🙄

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Maybe a different video. :)

[@daveleblanc1729]

Hahahahahahaha! When you criticise someone and then make an ass of yourself! It's "I would HAVE expected better, but THERE you go" Also, he's speaking colloquially not formally which is perfectly acceptable in this situation. Sheesh!

[@joshuazuniga2287]

Great video and very insightful!!!!

[@bala1000mina]

Thank you so much David!

[@redauwg911]

thank you for the video

[@libeluladivina]

SO CLEAR AND SIMPLE! tHANK YOU SO MUCH

[@seattlelewis2]

Love your tips! Keep it up!

[@cosmicfxx]

Great video, thanks. As digital artist that might want to print, if i only have a 100% sRGB monitor, should I still work in Adboe RGB even although I might not be able to see all the colours of Adob RGB?

[@maggnet4829]

I'm sorry, but this is so wrong. Adobe RGB and sRGB in jpg have both 8 bit available and thus have the same amount of color values they can represent. Adobe RGB however uses those values spread over a bigger range (in saturation) of colors, while sRGB spents them on a smaller amout. In result Adobe RGB shows more perceived colors, however sRGB allows for finer color transitions. Each has pros and cons. The later is particularly helpful if you want to edit those jpgs later and want to keep those smooth transitions in the background and the skin tones.

[@TSIXGaming]

excellent explanation ty!

[@jmgcg]

Ok really great video. For web always sRGB no doubt, for print in minilab,Frontier or Noritsu ADOBE RGB ,although they ask in sRGB I compared with ColorThink Pro profiles from both minilabs against sRBG and they can produce most of the colors os ADOBE RGB, but you said my web browser is converting. Correct me if I'm wrong but,you have to convert on Photoshop or C1 or Affinity before you put them on the web,if you don't, your colors are off.

[@nidhipanwar5528]

For digital art( website) and print purposes, Which qualities I should keep in mind, before buying a laptop.?

[@edgarricardopadillanates4160]

Tnhks a lot! Great explanation.

[@aniketkawale5416]

It clears a lot

[@christopherbarber9351]

very helpful to me

[@PaulBawby]

Thank you David for this very good explanation !

[@andrewdurant9038]

That helps a lot man thank you

[@saigonzu9658]

Hi David. I using sRGB monitor. I take my images in Adobe RGB to print on Canon Pixma 10. I calibrated my monitor and my printer. My question to get the output from my Pixma Pro 10 Ì had to using sRGB or Adobe RGB to get the right out put. Thanks

[@bradleyhurley6755]

Ideally you would need to be using an Adobe RGB monitor to insure that the output is correct when taking the images in Adobe RGB. Since your monitor can't display the colors in Adobe RGB, the only outcome you can see before printing is the sRGB one. This means that all the careful editing may not produce the desired result and if you want that specific detail, you may want to print in sRGB. As for which one you should use, I would say keep the camera in Adobe RGB for use when you/if you ever purchase a monitor capable of using Adobe RGB, but I would make sure my print file was in sRGB for the time being since it will look like what your computer monitor shows. To summarize, if you want to print using Adobe RGB, then you need a monitor capable of showing the Adobe RGB colors to ensure the colors are accurate when printing.

[@narsplace]

When you say prints do you mean all prints or do you mean those the relate to high production?

[@albertr915]

Definably shot in AdobeRGB Color Space. That's the color space i personally shoot in. That color space gives you a much larger color space, and range that sRGB. Also, It gives you a much larger range while editing in post production.

[@TroupeGoal]

But most phones and tablets can display in Adobe RGB and even wider spaces, so if that's how your photos will be primarily consumed, isn't that the better space to edit for?

[@taiji331]

Bonjour super vidéo . Alors moi j'ai une question.Je n'ai pas beaucoup de budget pour acheter un écran pour la retouche photo mais j'ai vue un model assus écran ips qui à une fonction srgb ASUS VA24EHE Pensez-vous que cela me suffira pour la retouche photos ?En sachant que derrière j'ai déjas une superbe config.Merci de votre conseil .

[@AdrianBacon]

If I’m in 8 bit land, sRGB all the way. If I’m in 16 bit land, ProPhoto all the way. I haven’t used Adobe RGB for the better part of a decade, it’s too small.

[@Bob-Horse]

Oooh, before I watch this, I confess I shoot in Adobe RGB but export in sRGB, let’s see if I’m ok with that?…fingers crossed.

[@TryllHDTv]

If I'm uploading my images to internet for viewing I also export in srgb but I shoot everything in adobergb.

[@ApiratKatprasat]

very good

[@claudianreyn4529]

I've had enough with the Adobe RGB. There is always a color shift between windows, photo viewer, platforms, phone, apps, etc.

[@catherinetremerryn]

Brill, really useful, thank you.

[@nimmira]

Is there any printer that is capable of displaying/applying ProPhoto? typically i work in ProPhoto and save the archival file in TIF 16bit in Prophoto, and from that file I issue various JPEGs converted into Adobe1998 (or sRGB if needed).

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Printers actually work in CMYK since it's adding ink on paper instead of shining light through a screen. So it's different.

[@longliveclassicmusic]

@@DavidBergmanPhoto Except not all printers do. The Canon Pro-1000 has CMYK… Plus red and blue. Your reply literally had nothing to do with the question of the commenter. They want to know if there are printers that can cover the entire ProPhoto color space or at least most of it. It had nothing to do with subtractive color versus additive.

[@michaelprestie8213]

I have for years had a solid RGB workflow from capture to Lightroom to epson printer. I need to replace an old laptop and now I'm endlessly searching for an affordable laptop with a display that has 100% (or almost) Adobe RGB. The new spec popping up is DCI-P3. I read that it is a wide gamut but different from RGB. So now specifications read 100% sRGB, or DCI-P3 or some TV gamut but its hard to find 100% RGB. Any affordable suggestion?

[@jpdj2715]

"We" have been measuring resolution (detail resolution or sharpness) in a linear unit (unit of length) like linePairs per millimetre (LP/mm). Computer scientists and marketers came up with MP - an area unit - that does not predict resolution changes to the human eye, but rather processing power needed and file size. And you know what, a (Bayer) camera does not have "pixels" (its SOOC JPEG arguably does, but the photocells in the sensor, analogue and colour-blind, are called photosites and the raw data elements are monochrome (mono=single, chrome=colour). If you are old enough you remember the US NTSC TV standard that was explained as "Never The Same Colour". ~Nobody knew that the colour space of NTSC was so large that no (consumer) TV could render it and each model had its own deviation and limitation. So when techies and marketers get together weird things happen. I bought into a pair of relatively very expensive Eizo 27" desktop monitors - 100% Adobe RGB - with the dream to replace my beast workstation of 750W (two of those in the house and 3,000 kWh annually) by a 100W laptop. That became a nightmare. I upgraded the beast with a newer motherboard hence chipset, to 64GB extremely fast RAM and a more cores faster processor, keeping the Titanium efficiency PSU and 11GB video RAM graphics adapter. BenQ may have 27" monitors 99% Adobe RGB that may be cheaper. I'd say, when at home or in the studio, use a large display like this. On the road, larger than 16" is already clumsy big (I have 17"). If your camera or image quality setting is under 30MP, a contemporary laptop will easily process your stills. Note that Adobe Camera Raw (the Develop tab in Lightroom Classic and the raw processor in Photoshop) always converts raw to ProPhoto colour space when it hands over its RGB rendition into LrC's workspace. That always has its gradation compressed to your monitor's capability. The big BUT here is that ACR creates previews and internal renditions based on the horizontal display resolution. I bought my laptop with discrete GPU and video RAM under the promise it could drive two displays, but 45.4MP raw shots and two 4K displays drove the Windows laptop into rebooting even without a blue screen. Never knew that was even possible. Your biggest question to answer yourself is to go with either Apple or Microsoft. Apple's iOS is superior, but IMO they charge too much and their service smells suspicious. Having worked with Apple for 10 years in the past I have a business software legacy that keeps me to Windows. If Adobe and a few other apps were available on Linux I had migrated to that ages ago. Linux and iOS need about half the hardware resources of Windoes. Apple's marketing of their newest lines of processors is part true and part misleading. How good their chips and chipsets compare, depends on the test. With Apple, you may end up buying half the hardware for more money and ending up in the top segment of stills processing. If you want to know how powerful a computer is for, say, ACR, LrC and Ps, then look at the benchmark tests of Puget - these run real meaningful jobs repeatedly. In short, choose (platform) between being bitten by the dog or the cat, use the laptop on the road, and feed it into a real monitor on the desktop if you don't want a big fat power consuming room heater.

[@johnboyle2551]

What happens when you mix the two. For instance, I use sRGB in Lightroom but I would then export (Before I knew I could go right from Lightroom) to Topaz Denoise, run it though Denoise which I think was either Adobe or Prophoto RGB. Then when I sent it off to Bay Photo to have them printed on metal they came out terrible (Had one hell of an argument with their customer services. Anyway, I rarely use Denoise anymore but when I do I go from Lightroom where I can pick the color space.

[@thomas.mosel.photography]

Thanks, very helpfull

[@Daniel_Vital]

Everytime I added a photo to photoshop (and only photoshop) one of my 3D renders would get an intense red tint, very noticeable and undesirable. After some research I found the reason... photoshop would convert the image to adobe rgb, while the original was rendered in srgb, making the quality worst. Thanks for the video, this should clean things up for me.

[@thisisbenji90]

What about Apple devices? I thought most of them are P3 color space. I feel like SOOC Jpegs in Adobe RGB files look noticeably nicer than sRGB on my iPhone 12. When I export from Lightroom I always select P3.

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Phones are getting better and better. But again - keep in mind that web browsers might also be converting for you.

[@SergeBotans]

Excellent,👌 thank u 🙏

[@marclabro]

nice explanations. i am shooting raw and use lightroom in prophoto and set photoshop to work in prophoto too in color space preferences. but I often have problems in composites mixing backgrounds,... coming from different sources and come back with the psd composite to lightroom... I have lot of color offsets so easiest i found was to export as tiff or jpgeg srgb and make composite in srgb. any advise are welcome. I would find my life easier f i could select adobe rgb insteda in lightroom as i do with ON1 PR2021. This unrealistic wide color space is tedious between software (luminar, dxo, nik, ON1, topaz,...)

[@nomadzoom9260]

i appreciate this video, ive been shooting for about 4 years or so now, mainly nature & astrophotography, lately ive been getting into portraits more though. so heres my question/ scenario which you pretty much answered in the video : i have my sony a7iii in raw, adobe rgb, but then i have my lightroom set to srgb because indeed, most of my photos go on instagram. however. i have been printing a lot of 16x24 or metal prints lately .., sometimes i do feel the colors are off. would you suggest when i go to print photos, switching the lightroom settings to adobe rgb as well then? can i change the settings just as i go to export it ? or do i need to change the settings in lightroom before editing the photo? sorry for the questions. would love your opinion, thanks

[@thomastuorto9929]

Great vid. So does it make any sense to edit in the ProPhoto color space when you almost always need to export photos as a jpeg. Just wondering.

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Really just depends on your final output and how much control you want. :)

[@Metal_Vistas]

So, for most of the video you were saying Adobe RGB is a superior color space (paraphrased), and then at the very end you say to just use sRGB. I wonder how much of that has to do with the fact that AdoramaPix, now called Printique, only uses sRGB color. I recognize most commercial labs do use sRGB, and that's what I use myself, but I do think there is a potential conflict of interest here that should have been addressed.

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Not sure how that would be a conflict, although you are watching the Adorama KZbin channel. I’m just telling you how I handle my own work. I actually do most of my own printing but have used Printique for drop shipping and bigger jobs like metal and vinyl prints. Most labs are srgb as I say in the video.

[@RickLincoln]

Q? Is that U?

[@snovimgodom2009]

Filming in RAW does it matter what colour space?

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Nope - you can choose which you want on export.

[@pattymattes7124]

Are there any print companies who use something other than sRGB? All the pro printers I researched ask that the file be in sRGB. Just curious. Yes, I do shoot in RAW. Right now I see no advantage in using like ProPhoto RGB if the print company is asking for sRGB. Your thoughts?

[@dunnymonster]

ProPhotoRGB is basically a theoretical colour space. Essentially it covers every colour permutation possible. This ensures that no matter what colour information your image has, ProPhotoRGB can contain it. No monitors or printers can reproduce the full gamut of ProPhotoRGB. We try to work and edit our images by retaining as much of the original data as possible. Working in ProPhotoRGB allows this. Once you have finished editing you need to decide how you will save it ( jpeg, tiff, PSD, etc ) and what colour space to save it in ( AdobeRGB or sRGB ). If you intend your image to be displayed just on the web ( Instagram, Facebook, website ) then just save it as sRGB. This way your colours on your image are more likely to look correct to the majority of viewers. That's because most people have fairly basic monitors that can only reproduce the colour gamut of sRGB ( really cheap monitors can barely do that!). If you had saved your image as AdobeRGB you'd find your colours looking funky and wrong to viewers who don't have an AdobeRGB monitor. If you print you might want to save your image in AdobeRGB. Printers are awkward because they don't have a set gamut per say. The gamut capability of a printer is ink and paper dependant. Usually the more ink colours it has the greater it's colour gamut range. This means that some printers can indeed exceed AdobeRGB's gamut, however there's another caveat. One printer might exceed AdobeRGB in the blues and greens but not the red, another might only exceed it in the blue. So you can see it's a bit hit and miss. Most printers can reproduce most of the gamut contained within sRGB, thus print shops will request you supply your final image in that colour space. Suffice to say colour management can get very complex. If you are editing your images on a fully calibrated Adobe RGB monitor and intend to print on a 12 ink high end printer then by all means save your image in AdobeRGB to extract the maximum colour accuracy out of it. If you are not, stick to sRGB but know that in doing so you have thrown away some colour information. Whether your eyes can even see the difference is a whole new argument 😋

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Honestly haven't done the research to know. The vast majority are sRGB.

[@pattymattes7124]

@@dunnymonster Thanks!

[@sexysilversurfer]

You can ask the printers for the colour profile of their printer and paper. (Not all offer this)You then use this profile in your software to adjust your image to their printer profile.

[@kh1188ish]

Are you SURE that RAW is color space agnostic? If so, why do cameras change the name of the file to start with an underscore and denote the color space in exif data?

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

Since it's in EXIF, the default color space will be the one you selected (when using the manufacturer's conversion software). But you can change it during conversation without any loss in quality. I think the filename is just so it's that way if you're shooing JPEGs (or RAW+JPEG). It's not needed for RAW only.

[@kh1188ish]

@@DavidBergmanPhoto sorry my wording was confusing... What I understood you to say is that the raw file is the (exact?) same regardless of what color space is used. It seems to me the adobeRGB file actually has more information since it needs more bits per pixel to describe the color. I took two pictures of the same scene in RAW and changed only the color space. The AdobeRGB RAW file is definitely larger than the sRGB RAW file.

[@suisinghoraceho2403]

I guess if you are both publish online and print adobe rgb, you’d need to edit twice, once in each profile, to get the best result??

[@charleyl264]

What about CMYK ? Some printers, especially the large offset printing presses use this color space. How does it relate to sRGB or AdobeRGB Color Space ? Where does the conversion take place ?

[@matzemay1278]

CMYK actually uses a wider Colorspace than sRGB, so AdobeRGB should be your choice. Anyway - i'd suggest you use all the Information you can get, meaning Shoot in RAW and with AdobeRGB as Colorspace. I disagree whith David Bergman at this Point: in converting from a larger colorspace into a smaller dosn't just "crop" the colors, it converts them - lets say to colors, that look similar in the smaller Colorspace (you can actually choose the converson method, check for perzeptive, colormetric, saturation, i.e).

[@deadtimber]

@@matzemay1278 Correct. There is a mapping that occurs, not a "cropping", but I think he was using that term for the simplicity's sake. Color management is a deep science. I've been involved in it for many years with major film postproduction studios, and I will tell you a lot goes into it. Color grading is the highest paid job in post production.

[@ewanjack7669]

Hi, I edit with lightroom and on a Microsoft surface laptop. I always shoot in raw. I have had issue for a while with the colour transfer from my laptop to my phone when exporting images, all images on my laptop are more saturated and highlights and shadows stand out more. When I get these images on my phone they look flat and less saturated. I export with sRGB but still have issue with this. wondering if you have any answers?

[@danbrowning2418]

I shoot raw in Adobe RGB and process the images using Capture One. If I am outputting for the web I use sRGB. I keep the images as Adobe RGB so I have it in case the standards change later.

[@longliveclassicmusic]

Did you even watch the video? It doesn't matter if you shoot sRGB or Adobe RGB if you're shooting raw. That camera setting ONLY affects JPEG files created BY THE CAMERA.

[@jackyleecs]

So therefore a JPG with adobe RGB will have bigger size than another with sRGB?

[@Fessoid]

Cool

[@aral2dmax]

Good video,how about actually showing us on a real world situation. With an image.

[@Metal_Vistas]

He has no way to do this because your monitor or phone or tablet only operates in sRGB color space. It will not represent Adobe RGB colors accurately.

[@photoartbergmann2394]

well then why we all not shoot just in jpg because we all watch jpegs right ... doesnt make sense to me .. i take the most colorspace when goin into editing when i am at the end now have tho shrink it to srgb i have to deal a lil with the color settings yes but i dont loose some in editing mode before.

[@b991228]

How is this different than working in 8, 16 or 32 bit color space? In the same respect in the end you or the user schmaltzes your carefully rendered work.

[@jpdj2715]

If we take a step back to the conceptual level, then color space is about a) the ability to reflect visible light, or not (as in the case of black that reflects nothing and neither is, nor has, a color), and b) dynamic range. Relative to this concept, the bits are "gradation resolution". More bits per color channel (R, G or B) means their are more nuances (grades). When the bits number is too low, you'll see color banding and the higher it gets, the smoother tonal changes can get. If you shot your camera at 14 bits, that is at the raw file level. And in raw files there are no pixels, just monochrome photosite readings. IMO, the color space applies to the raw conversion. Raw conversion being the wild-assed, but repeatable and mathematically precise, guessing of missing colors. As raw processing must invent your color image, this is where the color space plays out. White balance does not change raw data, but only is a label in the metadata that tell, say, Lr how to open and raw process the file. I presume that color space is in the same category: metadata only in the raw file and playing out in raw processing (JPEG generation is raw processing too). The moment you generate a picture for web posting or for printing, you'd be advised to adapt the color space to that. But before that, while you are raw processing and editing, running your image through Photoshop at 32 bits per channel has a big impact on resulting color grades. The difference between default, 16 bits or 32 bits, is generally easy to see on a decent monitor. If the difference translates into your JPEG files for your website depends on the JPEG conversion tool in your post office's tools. The moment you have done the schmaltzing yourself and JPEGs have your seal of approval, how users see them may not change except being determined by the quality of their monitors and their calibration.

[@kevinconnery1974]

Both color spaces support the same *number* of colors. Adobe RGB uses those same values to cover a wider range, just like one ladder with 10 steps can be taller than another ladder with 10 steps simply by having more space between each step. Your paint analogy could be made less incorrect--and more useful--by saying that Adobe RGB's Red, Green, and Blue pigments are more vibrant than the ones in sRGB. It still implies there are more distinct colors, but it's much closer to the truth than saying there's a larger collection of initial paints to mix. In my real world, virtually all scenes that contain colors that don't fit within sRGB won't fit within AdobeRGB either--a truly wide colorspace like ProPhotoRGB is required. But that's not an option unless shooting in Raw. (You shoot on stage with vivid wildly colored lights, and might find some that exceed sRGB but do fit AdobeRGB, but I suspect the difference is pretty minimal there, too.)

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

As I said - I was definitely over simplifying but thanks for providing a better analogy.

[@otraguardia]

Nowadays most phone screens are capable to display wider cooler spaces than sRGB. iPhones use Display P3 which is even wider than Adobe RGB. One advantage of a narrow color space is that it’s less prone to banding when encoded in 8 bits.

[@ondrejkratochvil4589]

And then there's CMYK :)

[@saarin0tsorry]

Different medium

[@policeluber6720]

There a Sony sports lol shooter who says he shoots in Adobe because it has more info etc?

[@nikilragav]

or P3...

[@agen7_smith]

But when i right click in Lightroom and "Edit in Photoshop", make my edits and save, then its stays AdobeRGB or converted to sRGB, when i go back in LR?

[@DavidBergmanPhoto]

I'm not a Lightroom user, but there must be a preference setting somewhere so you can tell it whether you want them converted or not.

[@rtyler1869]

If editing them when in RAW use the format that gives you the most latitude, in this case AdobeRGB or Profoto formats. Don’t throw data away needlessly. When you move between Photoshop and Lightroom it will always (to my knowledge and experience) in the same format. When printing as David stated, when exporting then go back to SRGB

[@ksumar]

I actually decided to do my simple experiment. I took 2 identical shots of my lounge in SRGB and the other on Adobe. I zoomed in and compared both on my Sony HX99. Result: SRGB was slightly more Vivid and I preferred that look to Adobe! Conclusion: SRGB wins! on Video Slide shows, images viewed digitally movies, etc. Also, this Video nails it to confirm that SRGB is the better choice! kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGHZgmOLlM-roMU

[@digitalhouse0819]

if you shoot RAW, it's no matter you choose, it's no different if you shot jpg only,99% choose sRGB enough if you don't know, choose sRGB

[@SwoleBeastTribe]

First AND First 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 # 🔥🔥🔥 A S K ! 💙💙💙 # 🧨🧨🧨 C A T E G O R Y ! 🥶🥶🥶 - Swole Beast🤙🏽🙏🏽✌🏽 P E A C E ! 💎💎💎

[@terrywbreedlove]

I know SRGB is used in all screens and printers. But somehow for whatever reason I always prefer my Adobe RGB images. Maybe it is because I shoot only Raw images and editing them ?

[@tarjei99]

The short and to the point answer to the video title : Yes.

[@lukasf5256]

Adobe RGB hast about 35% more colour space not 35x ...

[@ThePandaPhotographer]

14 trillion colors to be correct 2:26

[@1946gsp]

Affcts

[@MrMonfabio]

None of them, I use ProPhoto RGB. Never shoot in Jpg.