Every Gibson guitar should be like this...

[@SteveSterlacci]

Any questions about my Les Paul in this vid, check out the whole story and what exactly it is kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2e0ZqywidxljdUsi=ysKobU13fja_UA8v

[@LetArtsLive]

I'm getting vibration in the tuners of the 2012 Les Paul 50s Studio gold top... I think it has baked maple fretboard because I think it's from when they raided Gibson with guns get on the ground we're taking the Rosewood I wonder if that was to do with fender?? Yes I would like to get one of those bridges also I'm not a luthier... is there a link are they very expensive?? I need to replace the cheap ass kluson tuners but I don't want to put holes that don't match I've heard of a place called stewmac.. I was told that the TPS tailpiece will fit is that what you have??

[@guitartec]

The part that gets hammered into the guitar is called the anchor. As you point out, the early ABR-1s did not have anchors- the height post went directly into the wood. The reason they stopped doing that and started using anchors was because some player rest their hands on the bridge, thus, causing it to lean forward and throw the intonation off. Also, it often damaged the finish and elongated the hole making the post become loose. The anchor stabilized the bridge and that coupled with a Nashville TOM stabilized the bridge totally. It is virtually impossible to hear a difference in tone with or without anchors, so anchors became the norm. Originally, the saddles were called "saddle inserts" and the base of the bridge was the saddle, but the nomenclature has changed over time.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Awesome addition! Thank you for both comments

[@gryzew]

"virtually impossible to hear a difference in tone with or without anchors" -- people do conversions and comparisons on youtube, unfortunately there seems to be a difference (I believed in "no difference" myself but I just believed it, then I listened to A/B comparisons and admitted I was wrong and had no basis to believe it in the first place)

[@guitartec]

@@gryzew Yeah, but does the difference make a difference? Bridge pin material on an acoustic make a difference- I've A/Bd it and I can hear a diff, but I'd be dammed if I could say which is better.

[@garygratzer9670]

Thanks guitartec. I am as well and you saved me some typing. 👍🏼

[@deandee8082]

anchors BLOW!

[@willdenham]

Seth Lover invented the Gibson PAF humbucker. McArty was president of the company and wanted a solution to the noise.

[@ericburns6604]

True. Lover did indeed invent the humbucker and it was McCarty’s desire to kill single coil hum that was the impetus.

[@kenlieberman4215]

@@ericburns6604 No. It was Gretsch's announcement of Ray Blount's Filter-tron pick up that spurred the development of the humbucker.

[@Morningstar_Actual]

Who asked?

[@davidcudlip6587]

@@kenlieberman4215 Correct. He never got the credit he was due.

[@deandee8082]

not actually invented in the strictest terms, he built the first for gibson, the way humbucking was discovered is more likely than not when an esquire or some other SS setup had one pup soldered in reverse, prolly accidently? therefore the duty cycle hum was cancelled, many report using this concept or practice in the day . . Lover wound two singles alongside each other one reverse and named it.. hum cancelling was there and being implemented as far back as 50', the first esquires so forth, one pickup wired backwards did the trick . . some player or tech more likely than not arbitrarily soldered one of the pickups reversed on accident and noticed hum was cancelled in middle pos. very common practice for strats middle pup to be wired like this back then and use the matchbook trick, or even reverse wound/polarity later on... invent is used loosely here .. did Oppenheimer really invent the atom bomb? or was it Harkins and Eddington who first suggested fusion and Einstein created the formulas? while Opp headed the build of the first with a huge team of scientists? when a physic has always been it's impossible for one to "invent" it, only discover .. the telephone was invented, copper wire signal transmission is a physical property as is duty cycle noise cancelling therefore discovered, not invented...

[@agtronic]

Having the intonation set on a guitar is paramount to an instrument being playable, it is not something only professionals should be concerned about. Also a good thing to learn how to set yourself. Intonation needs to be adjusted when you change string gauge also. Just my $0.02.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Totally agree

[@BramClaes]

A significant disadvantage of the ABR-1 style bridge is that if you're unlucky, it might develop 'post-lean' over time. Basically the posts lean towards the headstock, damaging the inside of the guitar. The studs of the nashville style bridge prevent this

[@SteveSterlacci]

I think thats only on vintage guitars that remained at tension with tailpieces nailed all the way down. It is very easy to avoid that happening

[@riffs66]

Yep

[@J_Braz_]

Yup. I had a Gibson SG special from the early 2000's. After s few years the adjustment wheel wore out. The post started to lean towards the nut. I traded it very soon. It was a good guitar but I didn't feel like maintenance was worth it. Traded it and bought a 2002 Gibson Gothic Explorer. Wish I still had it. 😞

[@realtruenorth]

I think the new styles addressed that problem

[@erickaufmancustomguitars1351]

Don't forget the annoying thing falling off or worse falling and hitting the guitar part of that thing. Owner of a 1987 SG62 reissue, sure you develop a habit after the accident. I'll take the one used on my 2020 Trad pro 5 over my old Nashville style.

[@michaelsnydermusic]

Honestly, if you make a claim about tone change and sustain you should record it and see if you’re right. Confirmation bias gets the best of us and since this is a big deal to do this to an expensive guitar, feel alone may not be enough.

[@SteveSterlacci]

You cant really quanitify feel that I'm describing here. I think too many factors affect sustain specifically

[@michaelsnydermusic]

@@SteveSterlacci oh I agree about the feel. You can only describe it as you’ve done. What I was referring to is a simple sustain test to see if it adds sustain. Same with tone. You can do a null test and see if any frequencies are added or missing. Just a suggestion though.

[@markuskast6960]

What is sustain ? I guess it‘s when the string swings as long as possible, so that the pickup can transfer the signal created by the swinging metal string in the magnetic field of the pickup. BUT when some of the energy of the string get transferred to the body of the guitar (the body swings … the guitar is more lively) … then the string loses some of that energy (it swings with a smaller amplitude) … and that means the string will swing less and less and will overall swing a lower amount of time (because the body is damping the swinging of the string)….. so the sustain gets less 😮 So I guess you really should put your statement to the test. The feel (so how you feel) is a totally different thing … and I can understand that you might like a more lively (swinging body)… but what it does for your tone is a different thing.

[@lumberlikwidator8863]

The original version of the ABR-1 did not have the saddle retainer wire. The saddles were held in place by string tension. The retainer wire did not appear until sometime after 1960.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Ok

[@clarkdolan8534]

Great job Steve! I like the TonePros bridge because of the screws that lock down the bridge and tailpiece make things more stable. I took it a step further….. once I got the action the way I wanted…. I measured the space between the body and the threaded disc the bridge rests on with a block of feeler gauges, measuring with a micrometer… took a length of 1/2 inch brass stock, drilled center to match the post, .002 proud, locking down the disc so that bridge can’t move! The thin threaded posts become much more stable and ring more.that plus the TonePros….. Thanks for all you do! Clark

[@HOOTGIBSON-jq1jf]

could you make a video demonstrating this, I'm not getting a grasp of what you did.

[@ichbinnutzlos5561]

Did this, too, and some other improvements and now I have a much improved attack and maybe sustain.

[@robinjoynes1040]

Wish I could try out an ABR 1 Before changing over. Maybe Guitar Center has a used guitar to test

[@johncollins5552]

I agree with your mod. Makes total sense to me. I modded my epi SG special with a p90 bridge pickup so I have fun playing acdc getting a mix of Angus/Malcolm type tones just by flick the selector switch from p90 to humbucker to a mix. The mod doesn't require much apart from removing tiiny corners from the standard humbucker route using a small sharpened flat screwdriver blade as the p90 sits on the body with a foam packed underneath. Took me an hour and is easily converted back to stock.

[@bigbasil1908]

Rather than 'hammering it in', 'gently' tap it in with a rubber or nylon hammer.

[@noternunstoned]

it gives that little bit of support, I like putting an extra thumbwheel on each of my vintage ES 335 abr-1 bridge posts and screw it down to the body,

[@guitronics7]

I have a '76 Les Paul Custom, that I bought new. Stock, it had the studs screwed directly into the top of the guitar. I noticed that, while playing, the bridge moved slightly. I asked around, found out about the Nashville T-O-M , and had one installed. The bridge quit moving. I threw the original bridge in the garbage.The only difference between the two bridges is - The original (ABR 1?) was a bit smaller, and had the wire retainer. The Nashville Tune O Matic is larger, has extended "travel" of the saddles allowing more adjustment, has the same sized threaded "rod", and, most importantly; has the metal "inserts" which are either pressed into, or hammered into the drilled out original holes. I would hope that they're pressed in! So you are saying that, the inserts are causing "deadness?". I don't believe that any of the Nashville bridge differences make any difference. My guitar has incredible sustain. You state that you get better tone, and a feeling of springiness. I submit that the springiness is caused by the bridge's studs moving! Why would Gibson change from adding the inserts,(added labor!), to just drilling a hole? I think I know the answer..... Someone now needs to do a comparison between the aftermarket "set screw" mounted tailpiece, and the crummy "Loose metal bar loosely coupled to it's mounting posts" design.

[@billyboy1093]

I agree, I changed out the standard ABR-1 on my ES-339 to a Nashville because one of the threaded posts became loose over time and have no regrets. There's no real difference in tone, better sustain and a more solid picking feel. I never cared for the "springiness" of the ABR-1, I like the solid feel of the Nashville better.

[@johnhummer1064]

Not enough people talk about this. It makes a huge difference. The bridge is so important for how the strings resonate. Well done!

[@papparocks2603]

If you love it now try stainless frets, I try to put them on everything I get such a big difference and very inspirational feel makes me want to play all the time

[@JamesMurphyProducer]

I was a bit confused after watching this, because you never really just come right out and say it… But what I’m getting is that you prefer the ABR1-style stud mounting, but as for the actual bridge saddle section, you prefer the Nashville… Is that right? thx

[@SteveSterlacci]

Pretty spot on assessment. I will still choose the old style as long as it has the small mounts into the body every time though

[@timstaffell]

You have a point, and I have a similar attitude about machine heads with threaded bushes, BUT, the deeper the studding is set, the better the resonance? If the studding went right through the body in the manner of a long bolt, the results would be even better, I imagine...

[@guitronics7]

Ha ha ha ha !!!

[@dannyhatfield7259]

Your les Paul is my dream guitar.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks!! Mine too

[@RedHeadGuitar]

Interesting! After 20 years of playing guitar and owning five different electrics I didn't realize that originally TOM briges didn't use the threaded inserts. On most of my guitars with TOM bridge I've got the import style variant which even bigger inserts and adjustment bolts. Absolutely indestructible. I see how the acoustic properties of the original style is supposed to be better. With an electric guitar, the real question is: Does it make any difference through an amplifier? I'd love to see a video about that.

[@rodolpheponthus2948]

If you tweak a lot electric guitars with different hardware where it counts (bridge, nut,... ) you will definately find a difference. One thing I've found is that swapping parts is even more noticable on sound on high quality guitars. You hear the change on modest guitars, but it's crazy how a high quality guitar react to every change, strings, picks, bridge, tailpiece.. I've recently swapped the trem springs on my Fender AVRI Stratocaster, Raw Vintage, that are spongier and made of another material. It transformed the sound, feel and playability of the guitar.. not better, in fact very different. It's very interesting

[@SteveSterlacci]

Its probably like anything else, subjective to the player. I personally like how guitars feel and play with the small posts. Is it in my head? No idea. But it definitely makes me play more inspired. So does that mean it sounds better if I play better? No idea! Lol

[@rodolphep0nthus555]

​@@SteveSterlacciDefinitely. Changes make the guitar more like your guitar, and helps in most cases to bond with it even more. I feel that when you keep a guitar for many years, and play it a lot, it ages to your hands and playing style, like and old couch that feels so comfortable😉

[@joshmoore9403]

As far as maxing out intonation on the Nashville... Just flip the bridge saddle and that gives you enough travel to intonate it. I had to do that on my G string.

[@Fender5621]

Very good and informative video! Also you have a wonderful voice and presentation method. I've subscribed.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Welcome aboard! Thanks so much

[@zombies418]

I added the Faber tone lock to my 2020 les Paul and it is 100% a game changer and is now a standard upgrade for any Gibson guitar I get

[@SteveSterlacci]

NICE!!

[@mattier3030]

So I did a “flame maple mod” on my edwards e-Lp. It’s when you buy longer threaded rods for your abr-1 and you screw them all the way down to you reach the bottom of the hole. So nice. It’s crazy how much the guitar rings and sustains.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Very nice! Bet it rings like a bell!!

[@pointillist]

Yep, switched the Schaller rolling bridge on my 1999 Heritage H-150 for a Faber a couple of years ago and never looked back.

[@realtruenorth]

Made the same change in a standard Les Paul and there was significant increase in unplugged resonance. Worth the upgrade having the direct connection to the body.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Glad I'm not crazy!

[@realtruenorth]

@@SteveSterlacci not at all,, the earth IS round.

[@bluzzjazz]

Sitting at about 50 guitars, I have every bridge/tail piece imaginable. The thing that has always bothered me about my Gibson's, is intonating the B string. I've had to reverse the saddle to get that last little bit of string break and move it all the way back to get close.

[@jcbak]

My only problem with the ABR-1 is the damned retaining wire which can often rattle. Yes, you can try bending it, place nail polish on it, etc. But sometimes nothing you do works. The only solution is a bridge without the wire.

[@franksmith6871]

I put a BABICZ FCH TUNE-O-MATIC (Full Contact Hardware) bridge and tailpiece on my 2018 Gibson Les Paul Tribute (non weight-relieved) guitar and it made a huge difference in sustain and tone IMO, and it's fully adjustable for string height and intonation.

[@whiteninja2006]

I find it depends on the guitar, really. I changed the whole TOM setup on my 2010 LP to a Faber kit, with the iNsert posts. And it really transformed that guitar for the better. My 78 Custom had a collapsed bridge so I changed that to a Faber ABR1 (didn't change the posts) but had problems with intonation. Changed that to a Tonepros Nashville style and its much better now. It resonates beautifully even with the Nashville bushings so I don't feel the need to convert it to the conversion posts. Same fir my 86 Custom, the bridge is great as is, no need to change it. So, as I said, in my experience, it depends on the guitar...

[@silentrabbit247]

Nice Mod Steve. I've got a LP Type guitar (V100) with ABR1 bridge. I wanted to lift the tailpiece but not use over wrap, so put washers onto the bolt then screwed down the bolt with the string holder (of tailipiece) on top. This resulted in the right height I wanted but also a great solid connection with the guitar body. Never come across anyone else doing this yet, but it's great. Note it was a standard LP Tailpiece. All best.

[@leadfoot64]

I did the exact same thing! Never thought of mentioning it to anyone, good to know I'm not alone on that.. never liked that steep break angle from the bridge to the tail piece, seems excessive for no reason. I don't like the overwrap either, the windings at the end of the strings cut into your palm. Nice going!

[@silentrabbit247]

Thanks@@leadfoot64 Think more people should try it, works a treat and can vary it with how many/thickness of s/s washers. Also add more to one side if want to slightly adjust the level for the strings. Regards

[@archeryandstuffwithstevela3423]

Totally agree, when I got my Les Paul, a couple of years ago, I switched out the Nashville for a Faber ABR1. I noticed an immediate improvement.

[@Les537]

My '97 LP Special has the old style ABR with the screw right into the wood and a wire on the screws. Best sounding guitar ever. It has all kinds of timbre and resonance. I jam hard packing foam down in the saddle in the spaces to stop the rattle. I have a couple of newer Gibsons that came with the Nashville post in stud. The big problem with the new stuff is that it's made of steel which is shrill sounding to my ear. I replace the bridge and posts with brass which is more even and warm like the older kit. I didn't know about this one piece kit, but it makes sense and I'll probably try one. Rock on.

[@SteveSterlacci]

yeah man! There is just something about how the guitar responds with this bridge. I am not a fan of the steel stuff either. Bell brass is where its at!

[@belligerentamateur]

This video may have finally pushed me over the edge to try a Faber conversion. I've looked at them for years but have never been brave enough to pull the trigger, considering the price tag. Thanks for the great video!

[@SteveSterlacci]

Youll love it man. We should collab on some stuff being similar sized channels. You do some great work and are killing it lately! Thanks for checking out the vid

[@belligerentamateur]

@@SteveSterlacci I'm totally down!

[@SteveSterlacci]

@Kyle Bull shoot me an email or friend request me on the book face. Email is stalach21 at yahoo

[@billtotolo]

I swapped out the abr bridge on my ‘99 LP Classic for a Fabre because the materials and saddles are closer to ‘59 spec, big difference. Another key ingredient is replacing the steel thumb wheels and bridge posts with brass parts, and of course a lightweight aluminum tailpiece (Kluson).

[@qddk9545]

Or a Faber tailpiece 🙂

[@geet77777]

Dude, my main guitar is a '99 les paul classic. cinnaburst. man the neck is amazing, its like it has fat shoulders but the middle is flat. did you cut your own slots in the faber ABR? do you think the faber looks too modern or clashes with the guitars look?

[@billtotolo]

@@geet77777slots are precut, you can view the bridge on their website. I’m not a purist so it looks good to me 🤷‍♂️

[@raserex]

Do you have to file the saddles to match the radius or do these come "pre-filed" ? I had my original filed at one point and THAT was a huge difference. I'm looking to replace mine now because the chroming is peeling off and it's actually starting to wear on my hand.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Its pre filed and radius'd

[@kurtweiand7086]

You can by them filed, but double check if ordering online!

[@steveroach4895]

I love the Faber bridge studs and the tailpiece studs as well. Great improvement in tone and feel.

[@mehegama]

On electric guitar the acoustic resonance contributes almost 0 to the tone as the magnet only picks up the vibration of the metallic string and not anything that comes out of the wood. This wood resonance might be audible acoustically but does not really affect the string vibration and if it does, it does not do it in a meaningful way.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Yeah... this is about the feel. Ive never showed up to a show saying the guitarists bridge sounds really good

[@donsaxon1169]

I'm glad I don't have your ears.

[@cv7900]

Great video, thank you for the explanation Steve. I understand the rattle on one of my guitars now. Grazie !!

[@SteveSterlacci]

Prego! Glad to help

[@michaelshearer3559]

I am buying a master kit conversion from Faber and very excited. I think in couple weeks they are having 20% off sale which is very nice. Thanks for shedding some light on this interesting and somewhat confusing topic. I think it goes without saying how critical a good bridge system is, and Gibson is notorious for cutting corners.

[@SteveSterlacci]

You'll love the results!

[@picksalot1]

I have an old Gibson ES-175 Archtop that has a wooden bridge like the one in the video. I wasn't sure if I wanted to play it with flatwound or roundwound strings. I got some brand of Tune-o-matic bridge (I think it has a wire) for it so I wouldn't need to modify the original wooden bridge for a plain or wound 3rd string. Both round and flat strings sounded good, but I lost the traditional Archtop sound with the round strings. So, I switched back to the original wooden bridge. I have not noticed any wood compression on the bridge saddle due to string pressure.

[@SteveSterlacci]

In that case, ya gotta keep it!

[@edwardmackinnon2685]

I have an ESP that had those AB1 type bridges - Sounded thin and sustain was ok - switched out for the Nashville type for a more founded / ridged connection to the body and massively improved the sound and sustain. Whatever works I guess.

[@thomastucker5686]

I have a Schecter solo ii blackjack. I wonder if a bridge mod would benefit the guitar sound. I am a drummer primarily, so very ignorant to guitar hardware.

[@drzecelectric4302]

Nashville is a better bridge. That’s why they invented it.

[@greggriffiths9053]

I had no idea how to intonate my guitar so as part of the set up of my guitar I had my luthier do it for me .

[@DavidRavenMoon]

Ted McCarty also designed the Les Paul guitar. Seth Lover designed the humbucking pickup. I know you were reading from the Wikipedia page. McCarty instructed Lover to design that. ABR bridges tend to lean over. The Nashville is a better bridge. It doesn’t matter how many pieces of metal there is.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks for the additional info. Better is always subjective

[@qddk9545]

Everything matters.

[@raybassman7536]

Macarthy did bridges, but I thought Seth Lover was the pickup inovator guy at Gibson like for the PAF's.

[@tom0ocadoo]

At 4:44 the issue is actually the length of the string. It’s a bad design. The break angle probably doesn’t have enough pressure on the bridge. Good video have a good day

[@giulioluzzardi7632]

You are crazy, welcome to the club. We are'nt "Crazy" crazy just have much more accute senses, you hear and feel the difference between one design/materials and others. Thumbs up to "Faber" they nailed the bridges and stop bar for Gibson. ABR -1 works for me and my 335. I got a wrap-around Faber for a Les Paul special which felt and sounded a bit dull and thuddy. The Faber is made from better quality materials, as soon as I replaced the "Compensated" one-piece wrap around bridge with the Faber the treble returned, the clarity improved and it actua felt better to play. It must be the basic raw materials that improve playabilty and tone. Thanks for the video, the bridge is where vibrations meet the Guitars body it must be critical to get it right.

[@sfgylk34u_57]

You can also stay with Nashville style, but try brass studs.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Good call!

[@johnteevan6819]

My ‘05 Standard came with a Nashville style bridge. Took that guy out and put in a Callaham bridge that also had the ABR conversion. Also of note is the Callaham is made of milled cold rolled steel, not that powdered metal garbage. A bit heavier, but the sustain is out of this world. Also, apparently Nashville bridges are prone to flatten out faster than ABR style bridges. To each their own, but I definitely prefer the ABR. And, as you said the Classics use the ABR. I have 2 pristine Classics, a ‘99 USA Classic and a ‘95 Custom Classic. Both are unbelievable players. Can’t put them down. Thanks for the video. Very informative.

[@EdVanMeyer]

Once you have the height of the tunamatic set, make 2 bushings to sit under the tunamatic so you get tone transfer lost by the air gap.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Interesting idea+

[@jimhollenbeck4488]

I have a Gibson L-7 made in 1947, the rosewood bridge has now been sliced through by the strings yet. am I doing something wrong?

[@GuitarDaze2023]

I just upgraded my custom LP with an ABR1 ,excellent difference, getting the same slinky feel and sustain you mentioned, and I still used the body stud from my old large post bridge,didn’t you do a farber bridge upgrade too.

[@ryanrguitarist]

ABR-1 is a definite winner over Nashville. The Faber conversion posts are great but only if you want to use a Faber bridge with it. I fitted them to my SG only to find a genuine Gibson ABR-1 had different post hole spacing (I didn't want to use a Faber bridge as they only come in nickel, not chrome). In the end I reamed out the holes of a genuine Gibson ABR-1 to get it to fit but just recently I had the whole thing removed, holes plugged, and ABR-1 installed the traditional way.

[@IainFrame]

That is a truly gorgeous Les Paul. Great video bro 🔥

[@richardturk7162]

I've had both and found both pretty much equal tone wise. The threaded rod into the body does give a different feel I will agree with you there. I learned that mod working for a custom guitar builder as a tech.

[@oldasrocks9121]

Tone Ninjas makes ABR posts that have a 6.5mm threaded bottom half. Pull your anchors, measure to make sure they'll take a 6.5mm tap, carefully thread the body hole and screw in the posts. Sitar buzzing and rattles from ABRs can be solved with bees wax. Rub the wax against the offending bits and melt it with very quick passes with a clean soldering iron tip. Heat up the adjacent metal, dont touch the wax with your iron. Brass thumbwheels, an aluminum tailpiece, steel stopbar anchors 1" long and steel stopbar bolts that screw in all the way to the bottom of the anchor will get you nearly there if you're looking to reproduce original 50s tones. The bridge: I've put Graphtech Tusq saddles in the Kluson ABR-1 with great result but the affordable bridge that edges them all out is the Tonepros with their own nylon saddles. Iirc the call their nylon G Formula. As hearty and lasting as Tusq. That bridge sounds fantastic. Advanced Plating Inc in Nashville makes bridges, look for Pinnacle bridges at Philadelphia Luthiers Supply. On a chance I got a CNC machined bell brass bridge that's all bell brass, body anchors, wheel posts, saddles, saddle screws, for a somewhat dead sounding Firefly Lucille knockoff. Did the aluminum Kluson tailpiece also, steel locking API studs and steel achors. It did resuscitate the guitar way more than I expected. Heavy zinc TOM type tailpieces are massive tone sinks. I call cheap zinc parts "sticky" and I get rid of it wherever it shows up. Cheap zinc keyhole saddles on Strats and 6 saddle Tele bridges are the worst, I'd rather the cheapest no name bent steel saddles. The Kluson aluminum tailpiece is the most affordable with the inexpensive one of the two Gotoh offers coming in 2nd. Go for 25-27 grams whatever brand you buy Spendy Callahan stuff might be for doctors and dentists, Faber comes close, different alloy saddles like titanium and so forth might be for cork sniffers but ultimately the mechanical parts of the tone situation are the sum of all parts. Tonepros seems to have its zinc aluminum alloy bridge metallurgy well worked out. Some folks are diehard Faber fans The most important part of replacing any of these parts is accurately measuring the post centers, get a set of affordable digital calipers, the amazonian will help you! Especially when replacing Nashville bridges, ABRs have about 0.5mm of play on post centers but Nashvilles are a more accurate fit.

[@lesteubes-r1t]

Good point re measurements. Some vendors claim they sell stuff that fits ‘metric’ but when push comes to shove it doesn’t, or barely does (which can be worse, for the damage it can cause). I had this experience with Gotoh parts on my Epi LP. Nothing fitted as claimed but I made it do so with brute force and ignorance, and a bit of mix and match. However, I regret doing so even though they sound good and intonate much better than the original ABR and tailpiece (and fittings). With hindsight I wish I had gone back to the drawing board and started again with more precise measurements when I realised that Gotoh (or my guitar) was off. In fact, writing this now (two years later) I think I will do just that. I have better guitars, but I like to care for them all equally well.

[@oldasrocks9121]

​@@lesteubes-r1tI won't buy a bridge without a spec drawing. I'm a huge fan of the Tusq saddles, Graph Tech has a list of all bridges they make them for, scroll down on any model webpage. #s that start PQ are white Tusq, with PS are dark gray String Savers. Amazing difference from brass saddles

[@GregoryEllis-h3e]

Wow What color due you call that LP It’s beautiful!

[@SteveSterlacci]

Limited edition 1979 custom

[@rogerbranton1752]

Wow - you have a 338 among all those more premium guitars! I got myself one too, out of curiousity - and I love it!

[@texasbeatdownmusic1636]

All 8 of my guitars are by Firefly. On the FFLPS and my FFLGS. I switched to a gfs roller bridge and a tusq xl nut. Great video.

[@JimRidings]

Nice TP-6! I put those on all my Les Pauls

[@SteveSterlacci]

I love the look!

[@stuartmiller7419]

The only LP (style) guitar I have with an ABR-1 bridge is a Japanese Tokai (I have 5 LPs). It's the most resonant of the five and I put that down, in part, to the bridge. I may well try out that kit on my others. Thanks.

[@emelle1283]

i dont like any tunomatics. Has anyone considered a Fender style bridge on Gibsons to allow height adjutsment of individual strings?

[@SteveSterlacci]

It wouldnt work being that the Gibson tops are rounded. Maybe on a JR or a Special That could work?

[@emelle1283]

maybe a luthier could lathe a small flat section into the rounded top just to seat the fender style bridge in.@@SteveSterlacci

[@SteveSterlacci]

@@emelle1283 i dont see why not! Id try one

[@emelle1283]

or better, a manufacturer could cast new bridges to sit on the curved Gibbo top. No idea why this has never happened, as its undoubtedly better having individual string height adjustment.

[@emelle1283]

Me too - defo@@SteveSterlacci

[@jaycareaga9929]

PRS started in 1985. The first PRS I saw was in 1983 Santana played one at the US Festival.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Yep! Sounds about right

[@BOBXFILES2374a]

Thank you for the very informative video! I learned a lot.

[@Robowx]

I just bought a Faber USA ABR bridge. Fantastic

[@SteveSterlacci]

Great stuff!!

[@sethawarren]

It seems like the better option for a solid mount that will transfer the sound better is to choose the larger side of the shaft for the threads. Either the post has large threads into the anchor with a shelf for the bridge, or the wheel threads onto the post with smaller thread and acts as a shelf for the bridge. I guess you could argue that both bridges have the same downward force, but the ABR1 has less threaded contact area to translate the force through, so it has a more solid contact surface to pass through. Yeah that kinda makes sense now how the smaller thread would feel and sound more like a solid piece now. Sorry for thinking out loud in my comment but I'll submit it in case anyone else was thinking along those lines. Or for an engineer to correct/confirm? Please lol

[@jfiery]

Also the Theodore. I am very happy I couldn't afford a Gibson LP until 2020 after the new leadership was in place. I have a 60s standard and the only change I made to it was putting some historic spec wider top saddles on it that I bought form a guy off one of the forums for $40. I think it made a subtle but distinct difference and is totally reversable. While it does have an ABR-1 bridge it does have the metal bushing inserts. All things considered I'd take the vintage ABR-1 mounting method but I don't have any complaints. Nice information man. I didn't know why the Nashville style was flipped until today.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks for watching! Yeah a lot of bad Gibsons out there from the 2000s to then

[@jimsmith1215]

hey Steve , what tail piece are you using on your les paul ? I have a 2018 Gibson Les Paul Standard and I'm thinking it's a Nashville Bridge ( now I want an ABR after this video LoL ) also it looks like you have a brass nut on your guitar. Thanks for the good info 👍👍

[@SteveSterlacci]

Yeah man! Its called a TP6. I linked a full length video on the guitar in my pinned comment if you wanna see more of it and the story. Its super unique and 1 of 24

[@jimsmith1215]

@@SteveSterlacci Thank You Sir 👍. I’m definitely going to read up on that 😂😂👍

[@cheezyridr]

the guitar in your thumbnail has the tail piece too low. the strings should not touch the back of the bridge. you'll also find that raising the tail piece until the strings no longer touch the back of the bridge improves playability as well as a better sound. that supreme you have is gorgeous! imo, they are the most beautiful guitars ever made.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks! Its pre supreme. Its a limited edition custom from '79. Check out the video in the pinned comment where I cover it all

[@cheezyridr]

@@SteveSterlacci thanks for the heads up! i definitely will.

[@bryanarz]

SteveSterlacci, what Gibson Les Paul is that you are holding?

[@SteveSterlacci]

Limited Edition 1979 Custom. I have a whole video on it!

[@renmad0078]

I have some Tokai japan one es-168 it's the same as the es-335 from Gibson, and a les paul LS129 and they use abr1 with one screw directly in the body of the guitar and the tunomatic are narrow too. I realy love these 2 guitars the sustain are really incredible nice video 👍

[@Splattle101]

The real secret to tone and feel is whether your pickguard is on or off. It depends on the particular guitar, too.

[@SteveSterlacci]

I think everyone knows that. Followed closely behind truss rod cover material

[@stickman55100]

Great info and that Les Paul is beautiful!

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks Michael!

[@TLBStudios]

100% My abr 1 stripped the wood and its totally unusable

[@torstenkersten8566]

back then the best tone was coming from the brass studs directly drilled into the guitar and aluminum abr 1 bridge with brass saddles. The stop bar also rested on brass studs and also was lightweight aluminum.

[@amandavanvoorst1747]

I just pre drill wood dowels and put them in makes a big difference

[@SteveSterlacci]

Is that all it takes?

[@ernstkuzorra4014]

I equipped my 1979 Les Paul Standard with an ABR bridge in gold plated. The old one was an ABR too, but after 40 years there was some corrosion caused by sweat. So I decided to replace it and bought a Gibson genuine parts ABR bridge. Unfortunately the holes to take the height adjustment pins had a diameter of 4,0 mm while the pins had exactly the same measure. The old bridge's holes had a diameter of 4.2 mm. With exact the same measures the pins do not fit into the holes unless you use extreme power which results in making the bridge's height unadjustable. So I had to drill the holes a little bit to achieve 4.5 mm. Now it fits perfectly, but I wonder this should not happen with Gibson genuine parts.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Yeah they are very specific with their eras. Faber would have been able to sort you out as well

[@Anthony-qh1xv]

That is such a beautiful Les Paul!!!

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thank you!

[@eddiejr540]

Steve…my only point of reference is my PRS McCarty…it has the ABR style bridge and I can honestly say that guitar rings like a bell…not sure if that is the ONLY reason, but I’m sure it helps…I have to agree, there is something lost with the Nashville stud type bridge…great stuff my brother!!!!

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks Eddie! There really is a great feel to them. I think the connection makes a huge difference

[@dasczwo]

jep, got one. it keeps tilting. i string it topwound bonamassa style to lower breakangle. my main has nashville style bridge studs, keeps the tone and has Amber pickups. man THOSE made a difference.

[@SteveSterlacci]

It should not be tilting! Id double check the sizes. I'll look into those pickups!

[@dasczwo]

@@SteveSterlacci no it shouldnt. maybe i hit to hard. behind amber pus is the guy who invented the p94 for gibson. made in germany. also nowaxx is a up and coming boutique maker. all up there with the usual suspects and above. cheers!

[@giabgr]

@@SteveSterlacci It's common for them to tilt. That's why Nashville bridges were developed.

[@Bmnamq]

Hallo, ich sehe in der Titel Beschreibung keinen nicknamen wo mit dem anfangssymbol ( @ ) beginnt? Und auch dass fehlende # bei den Beschreibungen?

[@Frapzoid]

I have a 68 SG and the retaining wire does not rattle.

[@MonkeyFeat]

I've played both and I personally don't hear any difference. It's personal preference in my opinion. I prefer Nashville.

[@SteveSterlacci]

All is fair there my friend

[@guitarsrusinc2908]

a link to the abr-1 you are using would be nice to see, noticed you talking about it but no link to that particular model

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks for checking it out! Look at Fabers website. They have all options for different guitars... YT doesn't allow links in comments, but I'll look into adding it to description

[@simbadlemarin1815]

Is that a Les Paul Supreme? Looks like it has curly maple sides as well as top and back?

[@SteveSterlacci]

It's a limited edition custom from '79. Pre dates the supremes. I have a full video on the channel if u wanna check it out!

[@gregorio4646]

Not 100 percent sure, but machine parts can rattle. The abr 1 is good, but those thin screws will flex-that may be why the Nashville bridge came to be.

[@amandavanvoorst1747]

I agree plugged holes with wood dowels and got aluminum tailpiece and it sounds amazing

[@anthonymumford4277]

I have an Orville les paul with the abr, and it has a lovely sweet and lively sound. I have a Gibson Les Paul Classic Antique which had the Nashville bridge and sounded awful. I changed the bridge to a Gotoh with large posts and it still sounded dreadful. recently I changed the bridge again to a Tonepros TPFA bridge with aluminium body and brass saddles. also with large posts. I can't believe how good it sounds now. Nashville and abr bridges are made from zinc alloy. I don't know why they sounded so bad on my guitar, but I am now a big fan of aluminium bridges with brass saddles. my Gibson has been given a new lease on life.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Those orvilles are amazing! A good bridge is truly inspiring to play. Its crazy what a difference it makes to the player

[@RikJSmith]

@anthonymumford4277 Hi Anthony , There is a Nashville Style Bridge on my ' 96 Gibson Les Paul Studio Lite . The Bridge you were speaking of that is made by Tone Pros , with the Brass Saddles and is made of Aluminum , do you know if it will fit on my Guitar ? I hope you're doing well and staying safe . 🤓

[@anthonymumford4277]

@RikJSmith You might need a guitar tech to fit it, since drilling may be required. As the posts are much wider.

[@RikJSmith]

@@anthonymumford4277 Ok . Thank you for responding . Have a great evening . 🎸

[@9unslin9er]

I watched your whole video and honestly I'm still confused. I owned a couple early-2000's Les Paul Classics which had a nice bridge. I also owned a R8 Vos and a 2016 Traditional. They all had pluses and minuses, and I think the bridge style was a pretty small factor in playability in tone, all things considered. Right now my main Les Paul is a FGN Custom which has a Gotoh tune-o-matic. I think it has the bwst resonance of any tune-o-matic I've ever owned.

[@1sainteve1]

I feel that there's a certain amount of snake oil in this mod. It's still an insert hammered into the wood, and the screw is still metal on metal. The main difference is that the stud threads are male instead of female. It certainly makes it 'look' more like an ABR-1. I'm guessing that any differences are mainly down to the construction (different alloys and better tolerances) of a difference manufacurer. Ultimately, if it makes someone more inspired to pick up a guitar and play, then it's all good.

[@theidiot1977]

I like a roller bridge, they feel great while palm muting because they don’t have sharp edges. I personally don’t think one is getting more sustain than the other.

[@DLawrenceMarketing]

Cool in depth video. I like your Les Paul, What is it? I'm guessing it's a supreme.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks man! Its pre supreme. Its a limited edition custom from '79. I pinned a comment to the full video about it

[@thenext9537]

What I’ve been looking for is a longer tune o matic that can handle more intonation movement. Like another 1/4” would be good. I have an issue on my sg where the d string needs another 1/8” or so to intonate but nooooooo doesn’t go back any further. Weee

[@guitronics7]

If you can't flip the saddle to get another 1/8", get a Nashville Tune - O Matic.

[@michaelr.4878]

I have 2 new fairly new LPs (2021 standard and a 2022 tribute) and one has an ABR1 and one has a Nashville style bridge. Personally, I can't tell the difference when I'm playing. Other than looking slightly different, they both serve their purpose and do what they are supposed to do for me. So I am happy. Although, if I had a choice, I would go with the ABR1 for tradition's sake. ...On another note. I like the TP6 tailpiece the host had on his guitar. I have never tried one. But have always wanted to get one and put it on one of my guitars. I have never understood why Gibson didn't put them on more guitars. It seems like there was a short period during the Norlin era where they came on a lot of guitars. But then they kinda went out of fashion. The ability to make tiny, 1 or 2 cent tuning adjustments seems like a major plus to me.

[@oldasrocks9121]

Try an aluminum stopbar too, the Gotoh GE101A is the lightest of the reasonably priced one.

[@Shiznitt_]

I didn’t hear or feel any difference between the two modifications when I tried it.. It really seems like the placebo effect.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Im usually pretty skeptical about this sort of thing. I definitely noticed the difference. But its okay if its not your thing!

[@Shiznitt_]

I do prefer the look of the ABR posts though. As long as they don’t bend im all for it. I just don’t think I can justify converting all my guitars haha

[@kameel68]

That's a beautiful sunburst.

[@SteveSterlacci]

Thanks!

[@galelongputt]

Thanks again as always Steve. I will disagree for the first time with you regarding the screw head orientation on the bridge. The string is always in the way and should be loose and off the saddle before adjusting which then allows good access. When the screw heads face the neck then the bridge pickup is in the way. The tailpiece is lower and allows better access from that side. Keep on truckin', Gale

[@galelongputt]

It can be a little more trial and error this way but then avoids potential damage to the saddles and strings. Still friends? 🙃

[@SteveSterlacci]

I didn't make the rules 🤣😅 just what I found from researching. I have it both ways on diff guitars . Still friends!

[@galelongputt]

@@SteveSterlacci thanks, yes it is different on some guitars 🎸 but I think it holds true for most Les Pauls. Glad to see things getting back to normal with the music. Thanks for the Jessica Lynn updates. We are fellow Capricorns, Jessica and I that is.✌️

[@SteveSterlacci]

@@galelongputt thanks for following along! I hope to see you out there soon! Where are you at?!

[@galelongputt]

@@SteveSterlacci Just traveling with my new truck and camper trailer. Sold my house in SanJose(made a bundle) and business and hit the road. Currently in Northern Wisconsin. I have to quit buying guitars though I am running out of space 😮‍💨. 3 with me, 3 at my brothers house ( ebony Theodore, signed ebony Dave Mustaine Songbird) 7 in storage back in California. On the road for a year now. Thinking about moving in with you 🤣🤣🤣

[@DbeeSapphire]

I just bought a 2023 Gibson Lp standard 60s. I’ve never had a guitar with this much sustain. I can’t imagine it having more. I best focus on my mediocre playing 😁

[@stevepelham9010]

ABR-1 requires an perfect aligment of them stud holes and if not well that is where Nashwille cames in. There are new rypes of bridges that are kind of Nashville in size but them got saddles. I bought me one and here after i will put one of these on every Lp. A bolt straight into the wood would be the most secure if well done the problem is that guitars are no longer as well made fast made yes drilling and anchors will make it a lot easyer.

[@teriakamoto]

You Dang Skippy. I just adjusted my Axtion and put a ne set of strings on one of my Pauls and i love it again. I do need to do the intonation as the Harmonics are off a wee bit, but just raising action, and new strings make all the difference in the world. No more Buzz, and because i do a lot of bending, i'm not bottoming out. First time drive by, and sub. Hey Steve.

[@northwestnomad2707]

If you have a nashville bridge you need to change it out for the Faber. My nashville bushings were literally pulled out by hand.