Stainless Steel Trim Studs: Short Projects.

Stupid little jobs kill car projects. This I know. They take time and you never want to do them. Well, I've got to get a lot of these little projects done, so I'm starting a series of "Short Project" videos chronicling the real work that goes into a top quality build.
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[@hanssgarage1886]

These short projects are great idea! I like.👌

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad to hear it!

[@Justins_shed]

Always a pleasure to watch you solve a problem.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks

[@brettbresnan7078]

Thanks for the video. I love em. Now to find the parts you used at Bunnings in Australia

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I got the stainless washers from an eBay store in China - look for the 20 mm X 20 mm X 5 mm. The studs, nuts and bonded washers were from McMaster-Carr.

[@joell439]

👍👍😎👍👍 shiny (....or is that shinny 🤣)

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - that's some good quality joke right there.

[@The_R_Vid]

Woo hoo! Perfect timing for a new video. My afternoon just got way cooler.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Enjoy!

[@cyclinglievens]

Perfect, i did the exact same thing a few years ago on my amazon. Only difference , i used M4 studs and nyloc nuts. The M4 studs gave me more room in the hole to line up the trim on the car.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad to hear they worked out. I hope I can get them lined up with the M6 stud.

[@TurbineResearch]

Thank you !

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You're welcome!

[@Seqhael]

Hey man, I am still watching a lot of your vehicle body making videos and noticed you significantly improved your technique over time. I've been trying to note a lot of the things you initially did wrong and what you do now instead, but you should do a video of like, 10 things you would have wished you knew at the start before your mold and part making journey. I think it would be so useful to a lot of people. As you said in one of your original videos about the Australian guy on KZbin, it's one thing watching an expert who has 40 years experience, but it's another to pass on tips having gone through it all yourself as a novice! Thanks again for these videos, very enjoyable to watch and I am learning a lot from your progress.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

That's a very good idea. I'll add it to the list of videos. I work full-time (well, a lot more than I should) and I've still got to feel like the car is progressing. I can see the value in such a project and I've got the footage.

[@mitchellgast7272]

Quick and concise, what more can you ask for in an instructional vid....Thanks!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad it was helpful!

[@marcjordan29]

Like everything else you do.... Top notch work! Love the videos.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I appreciate that!

[@onepairofhands]

great job

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks.

[@curtisvonepp4335]

This is what I do to my cars RIP OF ALL THAT GINGER BREAD TRIM PLUG ALL THE HOLES DONE DID 👍👍👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Excellent.

[@insAneTunA]

304 stainless does rust, but it is a lot less compared to regular steel. It is 316L that is much more corrosion resistant, but even if you can buy the hardware in 316L stainless steel, it would cost a small fortune as well. So the 304 is a very good alternative. Maybe that some corrosion protective spray or anti seize of some sort, before you install the hardware, can even prevent the slightest corrosion that otherwise would occur over the years on the 304 studs. Anyway, it was a nice episode. Always interesting to see how you come up with these type of solutions. So a big 👍 and looking forward to the next episode 🙂

[@insAneTunA]

316L steel hardware such as nuts and bolts is often used for marine purposes. And as soon as parts get the label "marine quality" or "for marine purposes" the prices are skyrocketing.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Understood - I couldn't get the square washers used in 316 and I live in a desert...so I'm not that worried! Putting "marine" on stainless is almost as bad as "aircraft".

[@insAneTunA]

@@ThrottleStopGarage It would be funny to say to a seller....oh I am not going to use it for 'marine purposes' so you can take 20% off. You know, reversing the psychology. Not that they are going to fall for it. But it is always funny to get a confused look right? 🤣😂

[@stefantroedsson5483]

I have done similar clips but did the with a studs welder It save lot of work

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I don't have a stud welder attachment for my spot welder - this would be a great project for that tool.

[@bake162]

Always the perfectionist,nice work!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I do try. Thanks - can you believe this stuff was sitting in my office for almost 2 years. Glad to clear this one off the task list.

[@thephranc]

Ive been searching for a way to get the stainless trim from my AMC Spirit on to the fiber glass doors. Love this Idea. Was thinking about using grommeted holes to take the stress off the fiberglass. MIght try this with a 4-40 bolt..

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

4-40 might be a little fiddly - depends on the hole size. As long as you can get to the back of all the holes , you're golden.

[@noneyabidness6655]

Only problem with stainless , the nut will bind an make it impossible to remove about half the time in my use or stainless bolts

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

A little anti-seize will solve that problem. Or at least it's worked for me in the past to stop galling.

[@forthwithtx5852]

Not gonna break off, for sure. 😁

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I sure hope not!

[@kentmckean6795]

Nice and very creative! For some reason, KZbin has suddenly stopped bothering to notify me of new uploads from you?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Weird...who knows with the algorithm.

[@davehardy8885]

Be careful putting the stainless nut on the stainless stud. Easy to get galling that way which will lock them together forever. I’m a fan of a zinc plated nut on the stainless stud. $.02

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Good point. I normally use a little anti-seize like Loctite 771.

[@fredygump5578]

Good thinking! I'm sure this wasn't "cheap", but sure beats $9 each!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Just time and a few dollars each. Not bad.

[@jr3628]

the devil is in the details!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

So true.

[@eugennomatterr7311]

What about just gluing trim to panels? Bolted connection and carbon does not really play together well, under vibration bolts can wiggle hole bigger and you'll have rattling trim piece.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm not sure the stock trim would work very well with trim adhesive given the way it is made. I suppose it could be done with an insert flat and some trim tape on the flat. I would not want to bond the full length as if it ever needed to come off, that would be an issue. I'm hoping everything stays put. I may loctite the nuts.

[@eugennomatterr7311]

@@ThrottleStopGarage i think best way to fill trim with epoxy and use trim adhesive tape just like on any flat part. If you need to remove later you can use a string like on any badge

[@mperry9025]

Thanks for the info….you need to LS power the Volvo.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Nope - 5 cylinder Volvo power! Nothing sounds better than a 5 cylinder (except a 10).

[@ferrariguy8278]

I can see an alternate way to do this job, requiring anoter tool/tools. Check out DIY Injection Molding vids on youtube,. I could see this done as a little tiny mold w/ nylon injected as a stud/flang combo. Then it's all plastic going through CF. Yeah .. well.. it's an idea...

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

That does sound like a good way of doing this. It's done now - but there is always a next time.

[@ctrhenry]

awesome. next time ill run them off on my lathe for you for 3 bucks each

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Sold!

[@StanleyKubick1]

m6 is way overkill for trim pieces

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I agree - the factory holes are 5/16" !!