Stanley Bailey Type Study Breakdown - Type 16 (1933-1941) Introducing the Kidney Hole Lever Cap

[@TheMrchuck2000]

Thanks for all the prep you do to make these indispensable type videos. I continually check back for reference, and learn something additional each replay. Great stuff.

[@justplanefun]

Thanks for tuning in! One of these days I’m gonna have to get the type 17 video done

[@user-mechanicalmusic]

I notice the type 16 pat number is raised up vs the type 17 being sunken in

[@timothymallon]

Yet another fine "type study" from MJ! Thanks

[@maine420247]

You are a gentleman and a scholar! So if you keep this up I won't have to buy the book. Thanks MJ I really appreciate it

[@justplanefun]

I’m here for ya buddy!

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

I guess it's cold there now. I have seen some type 16s with SW blades, probably left over inventory from type 15 ear. Never knew about the 3 digits on the back of blades.

[@justplanefun]

Roger K. Smith says the SW irons stuck around for the first 3 years of Type 16. Thru 1936

[@chuckgrennell496]

Thanks, MJ, I am enjoying your information and presentation. I have an old stanley number 5 body (includes the frog) that I can't identify the type. It has two patent dates, both ending in "'02." The sole is corrugated. There is a large v-shaped rib on the back end of the plane that points towards the front of the plane. I think that this is near the type 9 style, but I can't find any pictures of or references to bodies with the big v-rib. Thanks for any help that you can provide.

[@justplanefun]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWTEhpSHj8ujnZosi=KFnUB_EyK6rmQ4pD This video on type 9, type 9a, and type 10 planes should answer your question(s). If not, let me know

[@erlixerlix7573]

I have a no 3 with all signs of it being a type 16 except the patent no on the lever cap. There are no signs at all on the back of the lever cap. On the iron it has the patent no.

[@justplanefun]

Could be a replacement lever cap. Hard to say after this many years

[@LessTalkMoreDelicious]

I got a #6 USA, seller said it’s type 15. But it has kidney hole, nickel, OG frog, and also the huge front pads for frog interface. It has dark red handles too (rosewood or stained?). All brass HW. Lateral lever logo looks like type 15/16.

[@justplanefun]

Feel free to shoot me some pics to [e-mail] if you have any specific questions

[@williamshaffer2562]

Another great video MJ. Keep them coming. Hope you are well my friend.

[@justplanefun]

Thanks Bill! Hope you’re well as well (that’s a deep subject).

[@upsidedowndog1256]

Crazy how many variations there are! Based on this all of my planes are type 15 or earlier except for the 5 1/4 that I just bought from you. Very plased with it, thanks!

[@WeekEndsForFuture]

Very interesting, thanks. What about those planes made in England, can those be identified by the same indicators? I‘m looking to by one of those 5 1//2 planes. Its frog is of type o-g (suggests type 16+), the lateral adjustment has a horizontal „STANLEY“ stamp on it and its frog adjustment wheel is a brass one. But also the body for have a unique diagonal ribs running from the Tote base to the corners of the body. Any idea on that? Thanks

[@justplanefun]

I don’t see enough Made in England planes to support doing a type study but fortunately some other folks have attempted to do just that - check out this article from Don Wilwol. www.timetestedtools.net/2016/02/20/stanley-english-type-study-draft/amp/ In the article he links to another online forum from about 20 years ago that explores some of the differences

[@isaith777]

maann this is simply amazing !! the best content

[@justplanefun]

Thanks! Be sure to check out the other videos in the type study series 😎

[@RickyVonPooper]

Great video MJ. Thanks as always for the hard work and very detailed breakdowns. . I just picked up a 5C and everything points to type 16 except the non nickel plated lever cap and it has a Sweetheart iron with 142 stamped on the back. The iron is ground with a big camber for heavy work so it may be a replacement or secondary iron. Perhaps the fact that it's made in Canada throws things off as well. But it's in such great shape I'm thinking (hoping) everything is OG. I'm stoked to put it to work!

[@justplanefun]

You are absolutely correct about the made in Canada planes following a different track. If there is a type study on the Canadian made Stanleys, I’ve never seen it. Having said that, I’m confident that lots of features would have carried over. One thing I have heard is that in Canada they kept the SW logo on the planes for a few years longer than the ones in the states

[@markluxton3402]

I thought I just restored a type 17 #5, but it looks just like the type 16's you are describing.

[@justplanefun]

It can get a little tricky sometimes but hopefully these videos will help make everything more clear.

[@peterjones958]

Very informative as are all your vids,.I know nothing about typing these later model Stanley planes but this video has definitely helped a lot. Thank you for sharing,

[@justplanefun]

Thanks for watching!

[@haroldschultz5864]

Very instructive as usual my friend . Your format packs a lot of easy to follow, good stuff . Thanks for all the hard work you put in . Bless up !

[@justplanefun]

Thank you sir. Now I just gotta stay focused and get the type 17 video together sooner than later

[@AnWe79]

Thanks, great info! Just got lucky and won a bid on a No. 5, that I think is a type 16, for a bit under $50. It has a replacement "made in England" blade, kidney lever cap, large brass adjuster. Made in USA behind the knob, no patent dates. No raised rib, but oogee style frog and the other details seem to point to type 16. I guess I'll know more when I've got it in the mail. (I'm gonna use it, so I don't really mind the replacement blade and some other minor flaws. Was mainly loking for the adjustable frog style. I'd have preferred the olders ones with machined lateral locating of the frog, but I think I'll be very happy with this one.)

[@AnWe79]

It was indeed a type 16, got it today and it's just excellent, minor frog adjustment and then I could take angelhair shavings at the center of the blade. The casting ribs were there, and easy to spot in person, just couldn't tell from the auction photos.

[@justplanefun]

Sounds like it’ll make a great user plane!!

[@joseffroula7415]

Love your videos! Always excellent content. Always really informative. Thank you so much.

[@justplanefun]

Thanks! Be sure to let me know if you ever have any questions. I’m not scared of doing a little research 🧐 🤓

[@jnrmrtn]

I know this video has been up for a couple years, but it just helped me positively identify the plane I just picked up at a flea market. This was super educational, and I appreciate the level of detail as I struggled to determine if this plane was a 15 or 16. Everything points to type 16 with 442 on the back of the iron. However, the adjustment knob is only 1 inch. Is this period correct, or is it likely that someone replaced this with an older part? My tote screw is also one piece (definitely not original) and poorly fit. Time to go searching for a real screw.

[@justplanefun]

I probably have the correct hardware you need for your tote. If it’s one piece then it may be from a type 17 (all steel) As for the 1” adjuster - is it brass or steel? The most common brass we see on type 16s is 1 1/4” You can reach me at [e-mail] or find me on FB at Just Plane Fun - the parts division

[@mikefick6725]

I have a made in Canada #4 with the raised boss on the tote and knob but not the raised line on the toe or heel It has the non plated lever cap with the kidney bean hole, the type 16 frog with adjuster, frog adjustment screw, large brass adjustment knob, fancy brass nuts on the furniture, no patent numbers or dates Stanley made in canada on the iron. Interesting trying to figure out canadian planes nobody seems to know really

[@justplanefun]

The way I understand it is - they mostly followed the USA made features with a few exceptions. For example, if I’m not mistaken, they kept the SW logo longer than the USA versions did.

[@Membee]

Thanks MJ another great video where I learnt a lot of info.

[@justplanefun]

Excellent!

[@MrMeds-of5ur]

Got 3 type 16, those and a #8 that’s a type 9 are the oddballs in my sweetheart collection.

[@justplanefun]

Throw some SW irons in those type 16s and call em early ones! Problem solved

[@MrMeds-of5ur]

@@justplanefun 😂

[@j.d.1488]

MJ thanks. Problem in wild is that so many have different parts on various planes. Drives me crazy and makes it tough. Need to write the rules down. Always want the users with a frog adjustment screw. Thank you I would love if you have ever did or will do block planes.

[@justplanefun]

Feel free to shoot me pics anytime. Or post em on FB. We can help figure out what’s correct and what’s not. I definitely need to do a block plane related video. I probably don’t have the stuff to a really in-depth type study video on a particular block plane but I could probably do an overview of a lot of the different block planes Stanley offered

[@waynerobinson4730]

I have a Canadian made no 4 1/2 with the boss and ring and no heel or toe line. Lever cap is plated, with patent number. The sole casting has the type 16 frog receiver. My iron is marked "Made in Can" with the SW logo and is stamped 337 for 3rd quarter of 1937, so I think you're correct about Canada keeping the logo longer. Has any study been done comparing the castings from different countries? My two Canadian planes, the 4 1/2 and 5 both end up with the exposed metal on the castings turning black. My Made in England and USA Stanleys stored in the same place and treated the same way stay bright.

[@justplanefun]

I don’t know of anyone that has researched plane soles from the different manufacturing locations to compare differences. Finding a few English-made planes here and there is common but finding enough to do an in-depth comparison might be tough

[@waynerobinson4730]

@@justplanefun I'm in Australia, I see English and Canadian made Stanleys all over the place. Made in USA is usually only the later versions.

[@marcusradleylarsen1511]

Did Stanley originally put on the sweetheart decal on the totes?

[@justplanefun]

For what we now call the sweetheart era (generally considered Type 13-15 though it technically started with type 12 and reportedly carried thru into type 16), Stanley put decals on a lot of totes (but perhaps not all). Most likely early 1920s thru very early 1930s but I haven’t seen anything definitive in a publication that substantiates my assertion

[@paulanderson1915]

Is it possible for a type 16 #5 to have a small blade adjustment knob? PS great channel, liked and subscribed!

[@justplanefun]

As far as I know, Stanley never sold them with a small adjuster. It’s entirely possible that a previous owner could have swapped it out though. Maybe they lost the original and replaced it, or maybe they preferred the smaller brass.

[@tonylenge424]

Good video! The book looks terrific but it is tough to get and expensive. Thanks

[@justplanefun]

You’re absolutely correct. They can be hard to find. I got lucky and bought a beat up copy on eBay. I recommend setting up an alert on eBay and maybe one on Abe Books if you’re really wanting to pick up a copy. Or just keep watching these videos 🤓

[@leslieandrews6324]

I think my # 7 is a Hines 57 plain, my lever cap has a U & the Pat. # 1918750, the iron has 443

[@justplanefun]

Sounds like your iron is from 4th Qtr, 1943. It’s not uncommon for parts to get mixed around between planes - after 50, 70, 100 years, etc, anything could happen

[@jerryhoogeveen]

Ohhhh kidney bean caps my favorite! I just completed my full set after many years of searching. They get a bad rap from collectors but they work great

[@justplanefun]

Stanley Works was pretty proud of em when they came out in ‘33! Like a lot of folks, I like the older, keyhole style cap the kidney holes do work great!

[@SleeperHoundDesign]

I have a stanly plane no 4 with OG frog but it has a keyhole instead of the kidney hole. No raised rib on the back of the handle. I'm so confused 😂

[@justplanefun]

Sounds like it may have some mismatched parts. I have kidney hole lever caps available

[@snellscroft]

Very interesting as usual, thanks

[@justplanefun]

Thank you 🙏🏻. I appreciate you watching and I appreciate the comment too

[@randygust3423]

Great video - appreciate the info!

[@justplanefun]

No problem! I appreciate you tuning in

[@HHH-nv9xb]

Just pick up a relatively clean #4, type 16 for $25.00 Thanks for doing the video.

[@justplanefun]

Thanks for watching!

[@jasonhoward279]

Are those totes Interchangeable even though there are difference?

[@justplanefun]

For the most part, totes from about type 10 or 11 thru about type 19 can be swapped one for one. Type 20s may work as well but the later ones had a rounded over top so it may sit a little higher.

[@brandondeyoung2771]

great video!

[@justplanefun]

Thanks!

[@derekdolecki2759]

Great video

[@justplanefun]

Thanks Derek!

[@thewalnutwoodworker6136]

In my experience really anything up to type 19 is a wonderful plane. My dumb ass removed the nickel and paint from my type 16 when I first started. I was under he impression that this was not original.

[@justplanefun]

I’ll bet we all have a story like that of something we did when we first started out. Sounds like you just turned it into a type 17 cap! 😉 I agree that they all make good users but I’m hung up on my type 11s and of course Lie Nielsens 😎

[@thewalnutwoodworker6136]

@@justplanefun Type 12-15 is better!

[@rickdafler2515]

Xclnt!