Starlink TEARDOWN Part 2 - Making an ULTRA Low Profile User Terminal

It's DEAD Jim. Making an ULTRA Low Profile Starlink User Terminal comes with risks.
I nicked some parts but WOW, what an amazingly thin device once all the casing and motors are removed!
#Starlink #SpaceX #Teardown

[@paulrautenbach]

Your method of cutting is almost right but you need some sort of guide like you have on a flush-cutting router bit. These are usually a ball bearing which rides along the edge of the material stopping the cutter from going too deep. In your case, a simple ring or disk, something like a washer or two fixed on the underside of the cutting saw blade, would do to limit the depth of cut. I don't know if, perhaps with a longer screw, one or two washers could be fitted to the saw shaft with the screw, ie, between the screw head and the saw blade to give a shoulder to run along the outer edge of the 'dish' and prevent the saw from cutting too deep. You probably don't need a ball bearing unless the rotating washer keeps catching on the edge of the dish.

[@lordgarak]

Looks like you may have created a short in one or more of those capacitors. I would just remove the damaged caps and give it a try without them. It will likely work fine without the caps but will likely no longer meet regulatory specs any more. Use a fence on the drill press table to limit your depth of cut. I would also cut it in two phases. Do a rough cut with lots of room to play. Go like 1/2" higher then on your final cut you can see what your doing better. An actual saw blade would cut the plastic better. Abrasive blades work but are kind of slow. I do have a mill here in Porters Lake that would cut it in two setups(only ~12" on the x axis). If you were to get another one to cut, I'd help just to get a chance to see the antennas in person.

[@AndrewRosca]

Thank you for taking the risk and blazing the trail Mike!

[@MikeOnSpace]

It's not always pretty, but it's fun! :) Thanks for watching!

[@BrianPaul1984]

You have the cheat sheet now. Despite the board being destroyed, now you know where things are and how to avoid them.

[@MikeOnSpace]

I'm still hopeful I can fix it, but yeah, as you say - if I do it again I'll know exactly how to do it with no damage :) Thanks for watching!

[@vonderlust]

How deep is the cutable plastic bevel? Could you measure & share so we know how deep to cut?

[@bigdaddio7932]

Good to see your still making these vids. I'm STILL waiting for mine.

[@ajbent1]

I think your technique was pretty much fine, you just needed to clamp a make-shift fence on to your drill press to prevent it from going too deep. It also seems like you could angle a table saw blade at 45 degrees and adjust the fence so that's just piercing the case if you're holding the dish against the fence. 4 quick passes and you would be done. Probably slightly less safe than your method, but also probably more accurate / repeatable and way faster.

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yeah, the fence would make things much more accurate. A bigger table would help a lot too. I hadn't considered the table saw - it would definitely be quicker, but seems like it would be harder to hold the accuracy. I'll consider if I try again! Thanks for watching!

[@nicolehmann2162]

Hi Mike, thank you so much for this video. I also need to cut the back of my dish and now that I've seen the inside can do so with more confidence. I have an idea that I can do it with a table saw by setting the guide width to the correct position and then setting the blade height to just barely cut through the plastic. This will prevent the blade from cutting too deep. I have a question: how high is the highest component on the PCB?

[@hugoruas]

This is also my reasoning. best machine for this cut with excellent finishing and safe service. Make the cut using a table circular saw with well-calculated limiting settings. It would be perfect and without the risk of ruining the board.

[@keweenawbee]

Thought of you immediately after the wind blew over my ladder mount test rig V2 antenna. I have no motor function but otherwise perfect and acceptable service. I know where it needs to go and where to point to. In your opinion will I be able to force align against the semi broken gear mech once I get it on the pole mount? Or will it loosen it further so the wind blows it around?

[@peakperformancesellingbymy7421]

Hey Mike! Thanks for the video. I opened my starlink up but am having issues with the connector cable you disconnect from the motherboard at 13:52 Any idea how I could buy or acquire a new connector cable? Not even sure what to call it when talking to starlink.

[@MykSr]

I’ve been eagerly awaiting this video … although not quite the result I know you were looking for a lot of good knowledge and experience here, your efforts are greatly appreciated❗️Look forward to future installments and progress, good luck 👍

[@Caprica-Approaches]

Very interesting, many thanks! My first thought was to open a hole in a hollow-sounding part of the curved back, and look inside for potential issues. An otoscope would be perfect at that point. Good luck!!!

[@nickmir1]

Yeah the damage is frustrating for sure. For mounting the old disk on top of your car, I would recommend a plastic wind deflector, like the one in front of sliding sun roof. May mitigate future flying saucer effect 😂

[@adoxographian]

Get a router table with a fence. More importantly, pick up a cheap inspection scope on Amazon. If you had drilled a hole in a safe location and checked the inside prior to cutting this probably would have been avoided.

[@nicoslivesey2040]

Do you have the heigh measurement of the board? I'm trying to work out how low profile a case I could build. But I wondered if you have the measurement before I break mine too! Any help would be appreciated! Do you think 15mm in total would be enough for the board and the cable to run freely?

[@renebeussen3374]

Can you buy that antenna separately from the kit? I have been looking but no results

[@deanekonomou7641]

Trying to get an extra dish from starlink so I don’t need to pull it off the house to go rving. Is the in home unit the unit that lets you use service. And a dish is just a dish ????

[@miguelpaquin20]

Maybe use a mini round saw blade like you see on dremels.. 👌

[@raminbelivan1687]

Thanks for the video. Probably one of the power supply caps is open or shorted. It might be open in oscillator cap and you need to replace it. If you take them out one by one and test with LCR meter you may find the problem. Write the bad cap number and some one else may measure that exact value on a good one. You can order the cap then. Note those might be inductors as well. Check for annotations next to them is it L or C?

[@luizfilho3806]

i'm so excited for the installation of this antenna on top the vehicle. please make more tests driving for long dintances e demonstrate the outages. thanks for your videos

[@MikeOnSpace]

For sure! I really want to try the rectangle one on a car to confirm it works without the original backplate. Definitely coming! Thanks for watching!

[@michaelstuben6999]

I used a mill with a 3/8 bit and moved Dishy by hand like you did. I put a towel on the bed to avoid surface damage. After testing I glued Dishy with 3m 5200 to an aluminum plate. This setup is now installed and working. It is probably 1/2 taller than yours but still usable.

[@jasonbodenheimer4017]

Hi there, any word on how they are assembled? I thought i saw somewhere that the front plastic is glued onto the back... With the other half, can you play with the great gun to see if that lip that reminds connected to the front piece is receptive to a "heat and pry" to shuck it?

[@CoCo-wy9xc]

tks a great teardown, by the way may I know the PCB size? Tks

[@ramoscpa]

How do you move the rectangle stand from 90 degrees back to the shipping position?

[@danielhildebrand7684]

Great content! Please make that indepth analysis with the oscilloscope and a boot afterwards. That would be narly man!

[@colinmorrow8565]

Hi Mike, thank you for being our "Guinea pig". I have a semi-related question. Can you disable the tilt motor by software (app) or other means without disassembling the Dish? If so, I plan on mounting mine (when it arrives) in a roof top cargo box. Thanks again.

[@MikeOnSpace]

Hey Colin! Not that I'm aware of. Running without the motors is definitely not a supported use by Starlink. The closest option I've seen is a few people have drilled holes in the white back, overtop of the location of the motor connector. Through the whole you can plug and unplug the motor, then cover it up with tape. I know that's not exactly what you're looking for, but it at least allows you to enable them again if you like. It would probably also be possible to put in a switch to do it more easily. Let me know what you end up doing! Thanks for watching!

[@williemaclardy2111]

Hi Mike, Thanks so much for your insight and commitment to cutting dishes open. Is there any chance you can give us the dimensions on the PCB that the tilt motor plug is so it's a simple hole saw and pull the plug. I'm a commercial fisherman in NZ and want to put one my boat. I have it at home and it's awesome. Cheers

[@joey_after_midnight]

I think I would have started with a hole from the Concave section of the backing cone and surveyed the edges from the inside with a flexible scope like from Home Depot. But now that you have it off, is the plastic held by clips that can be released from an orthoscopic tool through a hole.. or plastic welded to the edge.. or perhaps released using a spudger from iFixit at specific locations on the edge? Aerodynamically a clay ring and sculpt to make a casting part that acts as both air deflector and support/standoff would seem best. Surface mount caps can be replaced by radials, even in parallel if you can discern their values. But problem may be the entire assembly is "tuned" for the phase array, backing cone included as a reflector.. depending on the plastic composition.. so for example use the Model 1 antenna to see if the Model 2 backing is RF transparent.. or blocking, or even reflective.. by placing it 1. in-front of the Model 1 and trying to get a signal 2. placing it behind the Model 1 and see if perhaps it stops working or gets a stronger signal. - if it stops working then its de-tuning the array (and you have a bigger problem) - if it continues working across all those cases.. then you can assume its a passive component. My (bet) is they were able to make it smaller by making it an (active) component. Your signal may come back with (No) electronics tinkering, simply by sorta reassembling it like it was.. kind of "re-tuning" it (AND) if your not into castings so much.. Paper Mache.. a little salt, bread flour, water and newsprint.. make an excellent structural material.. layer it up, let it dry hard. and seal it then paint it. If your into 3D printing multiple parts and assembling them into a Giant part.. good luck.. but the Paper Mache thing is a lot easier for prototyping.

[@MikeOnSpace]

I had an advantage with this teardown since I had a few photos from others (see my Part 1 video for those: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d53Zeop8ZaaLf5I ) My first round teardown was the first public one, so I had no info and did much as you describe with the hole and scope (see here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6bHpYalatmjgs0 ) For the ROUND dish, there are clips that can be undone. For the RECTANGLE dish the white backing and the grey front are what looks like solvent welded together. The halves definitely do not come apart with prying. That's a good point on checking the back to check if it forms part of the RF signal path. As far as I'm aware nobody has yet tried to use the rectangle unit without the backing. I am however confident that the system is not working electrically. I've already done some probing of the power supply and it's not providing a stable voltage, so I do suspect the capacitors I damaged to be the cause. I'll HOPEFULLY figure it out in my next video in the series :) Thanks for the advice, and thanks for watching!

[@joey_after_midnight]

@@MikeOnSpace Using the Boroscope with Tablet was really cool. Congratulations on finding the clips to free the flat face on the round dish. Solvent welds make sense from the "no part is the best part philosophy in Elons companies. I think I would be attacking it with subtler Dremel tools however. I seem to recall there is a a Plastic Weld "cutter" tool for such situations. In the olden hobby days we would use a hot wire cutter tool to cut foam which would melt a tiny targeted area of plastic but you would need good ventilation. A soldering hot iron would do just as well. Overall I would be partial to creating an aerodynamic 'cradle' to hold the round and square dish without removing the back, once you removed the mount drive components. You could do that by filling a sandbox with wet sand, pressing the back of the dishes into it, then draping something like strips of Paper Mache to take on the shape of the mold and building a carrier for the dishes that hugged the vehicle roof and maintained airflow continuity. - the whole project might be easier on a beach with lots of wet sand and just casting the entire 'sand castle' aerodynamic shell in one fell swoop. Situating that between two Thule Ski or luggage racks would make a fairly stable solution.. and you could revert the use of the dish. Another thought is using MEK to dissolve the welds and free the panel.. but there is so much unknown about the RF properties of the plastic, and that can get rather toxic.. i think I'd go with the aerodynamic cradle approach instead. Elon also said something to the people in Ukraine that as long as paint or other camouflage materials were RF transparent.. you could use those. So the Polypropylene in ordinary overhead vehicle luggage racks might just allow you to pack either dish in say a Thule Cargo Carrier. Kind of like a Mobile Radar Dome. If that doesn't work.. how about just throwing a tarp over it.. secured between ski racks. 'The Hunchback of Notre Dame' approach might just work for some people. .. o'course.. not everyday you see someone driving down the road at 140 km/hr with a tent deployed on their roof.. lol. If you have an ESR meter (equivalent series resistance) meter.. and the caps aren't too small.. you may be able to test them in-circuit. For sure you can test them for a simple short circuit. Do "cover" the back of the panel when testing with something dark, to prevent light from getting through.. or turn it right side up. The circuit might be bright light sensitive... as old fashioned as that might seem. I haven't gone on the US FCC website.. but I assume they had to file for an FCC id and provide "testing" information regardling assembly and disassembly and RF outputs and frequencies as well as power consumption and other possible emissions. Those can be gold mines of information when actually disassembling anything used for RF. Manufacturers can file for sequestering parts of the filing for 'trade secrets' but its an extra step.. and i have doubts Starlink would bother since they are evolving these so fast. You have both dishes.. they should have FCC id numbers on them. Those will lead back through a Google search to the FCC database with the original requests for those FCC id's and the packet of pictures and documentation the FCC used to setup their RF test scenarios. Since your in Canada, I am not sure of the Canadian FCC vetting process.. it may they just rubber stamp approve the FCC testing and refer to that.. or they might have their own testing labs.. I'm not sure. But Canada and the US do tend to track fairly close to the same or similar procedures. If Canada does its own testing.. so much the better.. More Information!

[@user-dk2vv1cz6i]

Congratulations! Do you know how much weight is just the antenna?

[@jed2055]

Well, you're a braver man than me Mike, that's for sure. I've broken and busted more working things than I care to admit to but you certainly take the cake. Out of the box and into the garage. I like your style! When you described how high you were going to cut in I thought no mate, a bit higher, please! But you almost proved me wrong. I hate trying to repair smd stuff and in truth have had no success that I can recall. I don't see it having to be cut that low, that's my worry. The components and sockets unless you remove them too are always forcing you to have some more space between the circuit board and whatever you decide to use as a backing plate so no, I do not agree with others that you got it right; more plastic edge would not hurt. A teardown with drama mate, I need a drink! Cheers from Oz.

[@samreciter]

Can you fix it? Replace the parts - maybe? Maybe standard parts and buyable? Ah... you will try it! Good luck - looking forward to the next video!

[@MikeOnSpace]

I'm definitely going to try. The capacitors I can replace. The signal ICs probably not. Fingers crossed!

[@samreciter]

@@MikeOnSpace 🤞maybe you can find a broken square dishy for the IC - if necessary. Didn't you show pictures of a broken dishy from facebook?

[@hqcart1]

If one of the ICs are damaged, it'll be very hard as the software inside is most likely to be encrypted to work only on that IC.

[@vanny0855]

@@samreciter by

[@othoapproto9603]

Mike, thanks for doing this. Look forward to more. Can you talk about why this is a flat plain and not a parabolic dish design?

[@nathanmaker7824]

because they use beam steering to track the satellites it doesn't need to be parabolic

[@KeithStrang]

The is for doing this! I’m tempted to send you my second gen that I’m not using much right now! Any luck finding the parts on Digi-Key, etc? Next time maybe add a stopper to the cutter that limits the cut depth. It’d have to be inserted into the shaft with a diameter of the cuter minus 2x desired cut depth.

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yeah, a guide and a larger flat table would make it much more precise! I'm away this week but if I time it right the replacement capacitors from Digikey should be waiting for me when I return :) I'd be happy to give your rectangle terminal a trim too. I'm working on a flat enclosure for the flat panel - if you wanted something like that, maybe hold off until you see it and I could send you back a complete setup :) Thanks for watching!

[@jpmiller8098]

On the cheap, you could have used some angle iron clamped to the drill press table with some C-clamps to make a router fence.

[@drtracking]

Great video, I think a router would do the job safer and faster . A Woodrouter like DeWalt or Makita with a low bit. Would be nice to know the dimension on the plastic boarder, Thickness and height. Another Idea is using a 40 Watt laser on a cutting bed but that's more complex.

[@geraldkoth654]

Bolt a very flat piece of plywood to the drill press platten. Outfit that with some pins that prevent the tool from going too far inboard. Basically a fence sort of arrangement. Then only the corners would be the places you have to somehow not go too far in. Perhaps one of the pins is centered in such a way you can use them for the corners. And raise the vertical distance about 1/64th to 1/32 of an inche.

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yeah, a larger table would have made it MUCH easier. The scrape on the solder mask was definitely me letting it lift a bit. I was thinking of a straight edge "fence" to control cut depth, but I like the idea of the pins too. Thanks for the idea, and thanks for watching!

[@grindfi]

Lovely to drink a beer and watch a guy saw his brand new starlink dish and brake it, i enjoyed

[@grindfi]

I study electrical engineering, This dish will be okay, just replace the capacitors, the rest seemed fine for functionality

[@grindfi]

A better way of opening it up, is to make a simple jig with the cutter on the right height and a depth limited straight edge

[@antibrevity]

As mentioned by others, you would need a *guide* to ensure consistent depth. As the components are still slightly higher than your cut, we can afford to raise the cutting wheel higher as well, which would miss the PCB and components. I think you did a pretty good job here considering you were blind to the internals and your method only needs these 2 improvements to work: higher cutting and a guide.

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yes, a guide and a larger table, so I didn't have to support it with my hands, would have made things much easier :) Now that I've done one, if I do another I'll be able to dial it in exactly. Thanks for watching!

[@zhengdaozhang260]

Mike, as you guessed. IC and PCB should be good. While the caps has problem. I suggest you remove these before power it on. Becoz Damaged cap might creat short circuit. While most case removal caps will not causes problems, especially there are some in parallel. Of course the best way is you can replace it.

[@MikeOnSpace]

It's already been powered, but I think I was saved by the overcurrent protection built into the power supply controller. I found datasheets for the two power supplies so I should be able to verify things are working correctly once I remove the bad caps. Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!

[@AfaqSaleemChannel]

I was thinking of the same, to use mill machine, you can go to any local machinist and for some $ he would do it for you, also their experience comes handy when it comes to setting up the tools and what type cutter use for plastics etc. Second option I can think of with high precision control is laset cutting, I have seen some youtube videos , so I think it can apply to dishy provided you can find someone with laser cutter and willing to try it. Lastly when mounting on car roof, the magnets you use, doesnt look neodymium, I might have missed if you explained why you are not using them, but if there's no reason go with neodymium magnets, they are really strong.

[@Joe.Rogan.]

Ya you went gungho right away when cutting. Should of many made many shallow passes while cutting instead of one deep pass. Surprised you didn't catch that possibility after reviewing the other guys teardown photos. It was pretty clear there was no margin for error on how deep the cutter could go in. Excited to see if you can fix it.

[@danielborges.]

If it's glued on, you could try to peel it off with the help of hot air and a nylon spatula, in a similar process as with iMacs. And it is certainly worth trying to replace the damaged capacitors.

[@evanmeeden2222]

this man clearly, has no brain.

[@user-dk6xq7ue3k]

Hi, could you please post a drawing link of the plastic standoff placements?

[@evanmeeden2222]

This guys version of gently is my concept of what my high school girlfriend said the first time

[@RandomHacks]

None of the damage seems serious, I would start by checking if the caps you hit are shorted

[@rocketman221projects]

It's pretty much guaranteed that those ceramic capacitors are now shorted. Hopefully powering it up hasn't done anymore damage.

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yeah, initial research on the power supply shows it has overcurrent protection built-in, so hopefully no magic smoke has escaped!

[@mitchellbarnow1709]

Mike, I have no doubt that you are going to make this new Starlink rectangular device work! It's not dead, Jim, it's just in an altered state of reality right now. This new form of life is not carbon-based and it is moving so quickly that it's invisible to us and it thinks that we we just standing still because we are so slow compared to it. It's not dead, Jim.

[@panzerofthelake4460]

your videos never fail to entertain me

[@MikeOnSpace]

Great to see you again! Glad you enjoy my videos, despite (or maybe because of?) my somewhat hacky experimentation :) Thanks for watching!

[@RicardoSicks]

You really did this in the most difficult and possibly catastrophic way possible.. with two screwdrivers a small one and a larger one, you can separate the case at the gray plastic.. much easier and safer

[@agehring]

Can you share some measurements? The height and width of that edge would be great! Cheers

[@llIIllIlIIllX_XIillIIllIIllIll]

hey that is very very detailed, well down but can I challenge you to do 10-50! antena just as powerful as Starlink's? i know there are 1300 antennas glued together but I've always wondered if it's possible to just make 1 of them , just 1 as a challenge for DIY if we could really make a similar or maybe even better starlink dish, can u do that ? from the looks of it 1-10 antenna doesn't sound to be that hard, we could even do it with the extra materials laying around the garage.

[@kleetus92]

So.... are you going to replace the caps and try again?

[@MikeOnSpace]

Just posted the next video! Pretty good progress. Thanks for watching!

[@consultantntic4056]

Why not using a cutting laser with a continuous and smooth speed around the antenna ?

[@user-qi1yh4oe4q]

Could it have been opened with hot air?

[@jamesbarnett9556]

On the table, then it's independently adjustable from the cutting wheel.

[@MarcusTuck]

Don’t forget to open that Router/Power supply 😉

[@simonsonjh]

Bigger table and guide needed. A router would also work with a PROPER guide.

[@blueelectricfusion]

a wood block fence probly would be a best case addition for depth control.

[@rich1383yt]

It would be nice if SpaceX would provide the backing option; maybe in the future?

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yeah, I'm sure they'll make a version at some point designed for portable operation. Until then I'll hack together my own :) Thanks for watching!

[@homeonwheels2023]

One question I have, which no one has tested as far as I know, is the difference in speed with a stationary dishy and one that aligns at the optimal angle. If there is no difference, why have they chosen to make it so complex then?

[@BenQuigley]

That is a good point, I've seen anyone look into that yet either

[@MarcusTuck]

If you look at the original FCC listing, the tilt is due to a lack of satellites during initial satellite deployment. Now there are far more satellites, so there isn’t the need to tilt anymore. However, the tilt probably helps snow clearing and makes installation on a building easier.

[@hugoruas]

Cutting using a bench circular saw with a thin blade and applied to the necessary settings to cut only the plastic and lateral support limiting the height of the cut will certainly have much more perfection, speed and safety in the section of the parts. It is important to protect the main panel from scratches and damage.

[@ricklewis7033]

Mike we are in Markerville Alberta and are full time RVers and would like to talk with you about getting the system here in Canada and travelling into the US do you have any knowledge or experience of this?

[@MikeOnSpace]

Hi Rick! I haven't done this myself yet, but I've heard anecdotal examples of it working just fine as part of the "Starlink Portability" (roaming) functionality. I'm going to do some testing myself once I get my trimmed-down rectangle dish a bit more protected. It's small enough to fit in carry-on luggage so I'll probably fly down and do some testing and I'll share in a video for sure! Thanks for watching!

[@chrisrohde7696]

oh no!!!!! lol still worth it. haha thank you.

[@ArmandoAguilarJr]

Just curious, not talking trash in any way, why didnt you cut a hole in the bulbous part first to have a look inside?

[@RuSSSat]

so you gonna make it MoRe Efficient by tering it down? or you miss the dish shaped one so you reshape new one?)

[@BenQuigley]

He wants to flat mount it on his car

[@MikeOnSpace]

No, definitely not more efficient - I primarily want a lower-power unit (compared to my round one) and a smaller unit that's easier to pack for travel and camping :) Thanks for watching!

[@Ezzell_]

Take of the caps that are in a duplicate circuit and test them finding out the values....order new ones and replace

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yup, I think you're spot on. They're completely unmarked so if I can measure the capacitance then I can just be conservative and get the highest voltage rating available in that sized package. Maybe an excuse to upgrade my soldering setup :) Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching!

[@technicallyreal]

Seeing what happened, I think this could be done somewhat safely if the cutter was cutting vertically instead of horizontally, at a fixed height from the surface that you would slide the dish around on, and with a guide of some sort behind the cutter to prevent you from cutting more than the exact distance you wanted from the side of the dish. Anyway, thanks for being the guinea pig :)

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yeah, I definitely have some ideas for improving the process if I ever decide to do another. As you say, I think a guide and a better table would make things MUCH easier. Thanks for watching!

[@Raiderjalanan]

I hope you are not blacklisted by Starlink and removed from service because you have damaged and opened its satellite terminal....😂

[@nathanmaker7824]

you know that's only glued together right?? and you can just unclip the top from the backplate..

[@blueelectricfusion]

anything magnetic on a roof will come of from strong wimd gusts. assurance is having paracord teather

[@prasadchowdarysadineni807]

Video starts at 14:00

[@ChrisBigBad]

wreck/tangle dish?

[@MikeOnSpace]

Just temporarily broken :) Up and running again now. Thanks for watching!

[@DeLordBishop]

Now if we could just add our own ethernet port to it.

[@ferysery]

awkward position to sit on for 30 minutes and doing precise cutting work :)

[@BRADH-xw8sw]

I thought you cut it a bit low - everyone else makes it 1" or more from the face.

[@jamesbarnett9556]

Let's simplify the help, just put a stop under the cutting wheel. Then the same cut debt all around.

[@jmoss99]

You are cutting away the flex support which keeps the PCB from flexing and breaking all the traces.

[@recklessjunkie]

Wow not bad very entertaining 😢 tho

[@MikeOnSpace]

It all worked out in the end - I fixed it in my latest video :) Thanks for watching!

[@modestomonitoreo]

Felicitaciones por haberte animado. Quiero llevar mi antena en maleta carry on para avion como equipaje de mano. ¿Alguien sabe como desarmar el mastil? Se sobran 3cm de la medida maxima para transporte.

[@protectionplus100]

think the rear spoiler on your car isn't metal.. that maybe didn't help

[@maz1980s]

You could have pried it open. You didn't have to cut it.

[@Valery0p5]

No metal shield, that's weird...

[@haroonhassan8801]

Such a low quality tear down even you are not showing board from close view

[@unlokia]

Magnets? 🤨 just use large lockable rubber suckers.

[@tk2x]

Just replace those surface mount capacitors and hopefully you’ll be gtg.

[@MikeOnSpace]

Yup, maybe a good excuse to upgrade my soldering setup :) Thanks for watching!

[@modestomonitoreo]

Animarse y ser el primero es lo valioso. Yo no me animaria a destruir el mio. Quiero acortar el mastil y no se como hacer. ¿Alguien desarmó el mastil?

[@dasleepmastr]

Why not just use a hot knife to cut the plastic?

[@timboatfield]

Clearly greatly disproportionally more money than sense.

[@MikeOnSpace]

That could be the motto of the channel :) Thanks for watching!

[@timboatfield]

@@MikeOnSpace Sorry for the comment. I appreciate the look inside. The first one was amassing, if a little painful to watch. This one was just painful. I'd normally try and give constructive feedback, even if critical, but I couldn't muster up anything constructive about this. Thanks for the good intention though. If you do have cash that's not working for you and are not adverse to risk I might have an opportunity you might be interested in.

[@joey_after_midnight]

@@MikeOnSpace On your Model 1 McDishy.. maybe some Thule Ski Racks? And a Paper Mache airfoil to deflect some air.

[@GroovyVideo2]

that was painful to watch - heat gun

[@hqcart1]

Please, Use HEAT GUN, then a clip to open it, do not do it that hard way man...

[@joey_after_midnight]

Yeah.. if its plastic welded.. a heatgun and a spudger sound like a good approach.

[@hqcart1]

@@joey_after_midnight Plastic welded? what does that even mean??? how do you WELD plastic??

[@kearneykarting]

@@hqcart1 welding doesn't mean just metal. Welding is joining 2 materials together using heat.

[@hqcart1]

@@kearneykarting but it's clearly not WELDED when he opened it, no factory WELD enclosures by the way.

[@coconutz247]

gosh mike, i thought you were really smart. this idea on the surface looks really dumb and dumber if you dive deeper. what's the point of trying to make it flat? just build a aerodynamic frame without exposing circuitry. i still love your show.

[@UPMichCarne]

we cut into ours from bottom side not so close to edge, if you want to share our ideas let me know. we are making a IP67 enclosure with dish face up on shock absorbers for travel.

[@vonderlust]

Do you have a link to where you're sharing your efforts? I'm planning to go a similar route to allow for using this on a sailboat and on land on a sprinter van

[@ChuckNorris-lf6vo]

Now fix it.

[@OffGridAussiePrepper]

Oh Dear...... ya bloody twit.....lol

[@MikeOnSpace]

It's all part of the journey :)

[@OffGridAussiePrepper]

@@MikeOnSpace if u replace them capacitors and the tracks r not damaged then u r good to go, cos i saw them caps with broken contacts. shud be easy fix.

[@PeterJames143]

If you want to do something helpful please give us quick and dirty directions to do the same thing

[@MikeOxlong-]

This entire everything makes no sense whatsoever. Had this equipment come out 15 years ago when cellular was still 2g or in the very early stages of 3G (and data still expensive), it might have made sense as a little project. But with basically unlimited LTE costing half the monthly fee of a starlink subscription it makes no sense to butcher one of these dishes and your vehicle, let alone pay the month;y subscription...

[@ramrodgarage8112]

Dude something wrong with you just why would you do something like this

[@Nayana-4S6NDR]

First one here :D

[@MikeOnSpace]

Nice :) Thanks for watching!

[@kevpatguiriot]

🥇🙃

[@Nayana-4S6NDR]

@@kevpatguiriot 😂

[@StarBase7390]

You need a much larger deck on your drill press for the dish to lay very flat on. Then you need to place a fence on the deck like you have on a table saw. With that you can set the depth of penetration of the cutting wheel. Run the dish along the fence and problem solved. Or use a router and router table and your plastic cutting wheel. It will do the same thing.