Starting a Cummins Trawler Engine - Part 1 of 2 (EP. 52)

[@ProjectBrupeg]

What did you think of the old photos and footage at 15:58 ?

[@didzy02]

AWESOME! Loved seeing the old photos

[@johnneybravo1114]

Very cool So much progress! ! Are you coming to new zealand anytime soon? would love to give you guys some help? Cheers olly.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Olly, NZ is one of our first stops. We will be coming into Bluff and spending 6 months doing the South Island (Jess is from Dunedin and Dames from Nelson)

[@johnneybravo1114]

Choice! Will you be dry docking brupeg in bluff? i'm keen to come help out!

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Probably Dunedin to change the cooling system over from external cooling to internal. Love to have you onboard for a bit, where are you based?

[@j.dejonge2304]

Hi Damien, Starters, voltage drop and batteries! The same problem I had to solve on my father's boat. Good battery capacity is 1 but low resistance of the starter cable is 2. The distance to the battery bank was comparable to that in Brupeg. We used a second hand welding cable of 70mm square wire and it was long enough to mount two parallel. So together 140mm square wire available for the starting current. The voltage drop of 2.4 volts when starting went back to 0.6 volts. This made the difference. The starter turned around aggressively AND use 2X200Ah start batteries for your big Cummens. If the starter is still running slowly check the insulation resistance of the windings in the starter. In our case, we lost quite a bit of electricity there. Like your videos and Good luck with Brepeg

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks very much, in part two you can see our version of this solution

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Damien, Jess and Ryan, The pictures of what BRUPEG looked like in the engine bay were unbelievable. You have made huge progress and the new engine bay looks fantastic! Watching you work on that engine with your patience reminded me of why I don't work on engines. I have neither the talent nor the patience. Massive kudos to you. Take care and am looking forward to seeing that beast start up and run.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Matt, yeah it has been a lesson in patience. It takes as long as it takes

[@Mister006]

It is going to be so different to get the exact Cummins for the entire job going forward! I can't wait to see the whole rebuild process and setup that is perfect for the application! Congrats!

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yip. Very exciting to be able to build the perfect engine

[@Nudnik1]

Awesome I am on Long island NY worked on boats 40years. Nice job you are doing.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks very much, glad to have you along

[@kenwheeler6150]

Hi Damien, If you are thinking of a diode in your split charge system be aware that you can have about one volt drop across it. especially if you are using a machine sensed alternator. Try using a modern charge splitter as they use mosfet's and have near zero volts drop, Google Sterling power products. They can also provide an alternator to battery booster that can give you split charging and more efficient charging for various types of battery chemistry.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Awesome stuff thanks Ken

[@garynew9637]

.4 voltage drop for a diode.

[@MrCptjohn]

Very well documented as you go along,excellent tuition even newbies can follow your work pattern easily,best wishes from Boston Lincolnshire uk.

[@Greggspies]

Low pressure pipes to injectiors in engine, use dial gauge to set injector rockers Did a rebuild in wagon years back

[@traveller9625]

Brother I said it before and I'll say it again, you got your shit together. My God that is a lotta work. Lookin great!!

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks mate. Yeah it’s been a long road but we are definitely on the down hill now

[@howardrewald9817]

I worked in the drilling industry for 18 years , the Cummins on our 350PSI compressor roared 70 hours a week for years good choice for a engine.

[@63256325N]

Best of luck moving forward! It'll all get sorted one way or another. Thanks for the video.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Duncan

[@garybaris139]

Wow, fantastic job with fixing up the engine room, looks great. On the battery cables, I usually use welding cables. They are more than adequate to carry the amps you need.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Gary. Yeah we did upgrade the cables with great success, next episode shows the results, out on Patreon today and KZbin next week

[@gregorythomas333]

For future knowledge...you can get welding cables to use for high current things like starting the engine...they are usually cheaper than "starter" cables even though they are the same thing.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah i got a deal on the big cable i used. I was told the plastic sheathing on welding cable doesnt like diesel hence they recommend the stuff we brought.

[@gregorythomas333]

Ah...good point!

[@noelguyau0571]

Awesome mate, can’t wait to hear her purr.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

You are gunna LOVE part 2... shit I gave it away

[@noelguyau0571]

Ha ha,,,awesome mate

[@barrylinkiewich9688]

You're using your adjustable wrench backwards starting at the 25:11 mark, you want to be turning towards the adjustable jaw. Probably not an issue on small fuel fittings but a small nitpick.

[@robinengland5799]

Amazing progress in the build!

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Robin

[@Nudnik1]

Nice video and trawler. Fleet Guard filters by Cummins Onan excellent. Use largest size twin primary water separator s and filters finest secondary 10 micron to protect injection pump.Some transmissions such as Borg Warner MG 409 s have a " come home screw" which in emergency you can lock clutches in forward if HYD oil lost. Cheers

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Motorhead. We actually have 5 primary filters in Brupeg and two polishing filters down to one micron. but yes Onan filters where possible

[@mainengines]

It looks like your engine came out of a Ford 9000, short nosed tractor. The oil cooler angled adapter (to get under the turbo) is the give away. The engine was mounted in the automotive chassis on an angle for clearance. In addition, the fuel line connecting the fuel pump to the fuel return line is know as the cooler kit. The 90° elbow in the gear (lift) pump is a check valve that lets fuel pressure return from the pump to the tank when the vehicle is moving, such as down hill and the throttle is in the idle position. The vehicle and pump are running at speed, but the fuel has no place to go.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Joe, I will look into this, we don’t know a lot about the history of this motor so this is a very handy place to start

[@mainengines]

If you look closely at that 90° elbow on the gear (lift) pump, there should be a C stamped on the large part of the body, designating it as a check valve. And you can remove the Jacobs Engine Break and its associated pieces and sell them. They are rather expensive and should sell readily.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Ok good to know. I was going to just bin them but I won’t now... thanks for the heads up

[@deborahpetith8710]

OMG! The difference between the original engine room and the now, WOW, alot of work guys. Smart to do it as you did, Ron(hubby) enjoyed watching you work on the motor as he can't (physically)do that kind of work anymore, he said good job. Take care, have fun, till next time bye.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Deb, yeah it was a lot of work and we umm’ed and ahh’ed about doing it for ages as it was 5grand just to blast that room alone. That said I’m glad we did it. As it will forever be a room we can be proud of and it’s a lovely space to work in now.

[@richardscudds4753]

A full video on that big bad boy , cant wait to see the next one now , glad to see Jessie lookin much better too . stay safe you guys

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Richard, we are editing part 2 now, can’t wait to get it out to Patreons on Friday (KZbin 4 days later)... hint hint

[@PiezPiedPy]

You did a proper nice job on that engine room, looks like new

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks very much

[@gdavies6980]

So glad to see that I’m not the only silly sod to get my taps/valves backwards and trap the handles. Yay.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah it’s one of those things aye, you know you need to factor it in then you forget and you end up redo’ing it anyway.

[@justdoi8909]

That handle trap could have been more simply resolved by rotating the valve unit radially by 45 degrees than by reversing, ymmv. enjoyed the video anyway. thank you. Doi

[@ProjectBrupeg]

True, didn’t think of that. Thanks Doi

[@bartonrobinson4266]

Looking good there, love the hum of those Cummings. Look forward to #2 to hear it rumble.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah she sounds absolutely bloody sweet!

[@tvanderwheels3292]

Great video again!

[@sonsrc1326]

Looks so different back then mate Engine looks clean as can’t wait for the start up

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah thanks. She really was a mess when we first got her

[@pgltdrew581]

Love it man.... it's coming along nicely. Thanks for the look back to the way the engine room started.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah its a big change from when we first got her. Lovely big space to work in now

[@TheLoxxxton]

Whoh! Happy painting then a slap in the face full on engineering

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Welcome to Brupeg...

[@billbaggins]

getting exciting.. so nice to see a big clean engine room 😊

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah it was a real mess when we first brought her, but it’s a lovely space to work in now, big, bright, white, clean and echo’y

[@billbaggins]

real boats have engine rooms at the heart.. wanker boats have kitchens

[@gfroese4799]

I like the wiring job . Nice and neat because believe you me when trouble happens [and it will ] having wiring the one can trace is important .

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah the cable tray makes a WORLD of difference in helping to solve wiring layout

[@doug1030]

I hope everyone on the crew is doing well . Your videos are full of great information . Keep it up .

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Doug, glad you enjoy them mate

[@mikeskelly2356]

Look into a length of 'key hole' belt for 'at sea' belt replacement that won't require removing components to just get your equipment running until you can take the time to install a proper replacement belt. (key hole belt is a series of 3 to 4 cm lengths of rubberized fiber with a 'mushroom' headed stud at one end and a 'keyhole' at the other, these lock together to form a temporary belt of any length).

[@mikeskelly2356]

I found a trick for polish sanding large shafts. Get a sanding belt and turn it inside out, then mount a spool (old wire or solder spool) on a long bolt and chuck it into a drill, loop the belt over the shaft and spool, pull it snug and sand away. You can wrap rubber or duct tape around the spool if it slips too much. Saves a ton of labor! ; {

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah nice. Handy little trick. Thanks Mike

[@aserta]

Lightweight oil + slow threading to allow the thin liquid to squeeze through the spaces in the thread matching = happy bolt installation IF need be to have it lubricated against corrosion. Another trick i saw (but i can't recommend it) is a thin cut longitudinally on the bolt through the threads, saw it on a (old) Honda generator. It allowed any excess lubricant to squeeze through.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Aserta yeah that cut work but it does seem like overkill for those times you use too much oil.

[@MichaudDaniel]

You did a really great job in the engine room. 5*****

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Daniel, yeah it was a lovely feeling getting lots of nice shiny white gloss in there after all the work. And then being able to set the engine up well was icing on the cake for us.

[@billmeldrum2509]

Exciting times. 🇨🇦

[@mitchpender8113]

Hey dude , it's been great watching your progress . In regards to your lead acid batteries 12.6v is 100% charge on a lead acid battery . Bearing in mind once charged they need to be loaded to give a correct reading. From memory 11.9v I think is 50% and they should never be taken below this level ( usually never a problem on a start battery ) . Better looking at it than for it , is the trade term for leaving a lot more cable than you need! Oh and raychem is the heat shrink product infused with resin , I have used this heat shrink on submersed cabling to good effect !!

[@russelldearlove3494]

Nice big engine room !

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah it’s a lovely space to work in. But it will fill up, we will be adding a generator and a fuel processing system for our oil

[@benrice87]

Damien, I always enjoy the videos!! Keep up the good work. Know that batteries in parallel add ampacity and batteries in series (like your two 6V) do not.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Cheers Ben

[@makeitwork583]

How far has propellor tech come since Brupegs prop was made? Has there been a big jump? Do you have plans to ever replace the prop to reflect the decreased weight the of boat when unladen compared to when it was regularly full of fishies?

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Honestly not much different from what she has. These props are made to be as good as they can be as fuel and net size depend on it. If the props no good, you can’t pull a big net and you burn lots of fuel. Brupeg will be a very similar weigh to her fishing days and we need the low down thrust when in ice

[@svalchemy]

11:48: Are those V- or serpentine-type belts? I prefer the latter...they seem to slip less. 19:22: That's how I used to fill the oil in my old petrol inboard on my previous boat. The sump was continuous with the transmission (planetary gear), so it was easiest just to pull off the plate and tip the jug. I used to drain it the same way, until I got a little brighter and tapped a petcock into the bottom of the sump and let gravity do the job into a roasting pan. 23:45: Before I'd done the fuel filtering installation (because I was using some elderly diesel), I bungeed a jerrycan to the companionway stairs and used a priming bulb fuel line straight in, and the return line right back into the can. I clamped the two hoses together, leaving enough of a space so I wouldn't create a vacuum. Worked fine! 35:30: My starter cables are 2/0 ga. for the same reasons. My battery parallels are also 2/0 and my cables to the charger are 4/0 ga. All properly fused, crimped and sealed with the resin heat shrink. I had a flood and the starter needed repair. I cut the lug from the 2/0 positive cable and it was perfectly bright metal. So I just crimped on a new lug and redid the heat shrink. You have to think "will there EVER be water in here?" I mean, it happened once... 38:19: Did you check the electrolyte levels to see the actual state of charge (after they've "rested" off the charger)? If you can peer in there and can see the top of the plates, they're stuffed, likely. Otherwise, excellent episode. It's like a video of my blog posts for 2015!

[@Gottenhimfella]

Damien: Banded V-Belts go one better than matched sets, all the V elements are joined on a common flat backing web-- and AFAIK that is what is meant by "serpentine" You might find it more economical to source them through a industrial belt, bearing and transmission equipment supplier McMaster Carr also list a number of A and B section sizes, with USD pricing Almost anything else is likely to be considerably better value than going to Cummins Spares.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah I did think I was going to have to sell myself into human slavery to pay for Cummins genuine belts. Thanks for the tip I will google them today

[@svalchemy]

I've used Gates in the past, but my belts are now Optibelt, which I believe are German. "Serpentine" is the same as "ribbed" or "banded", I believe and is not the same as a V-belt, which is prone to more slippage. www.optibelt-usa.com/products/view/product/rb.html

[@themage12]

You may find that for the big oil volumes, those 20l drums work better if you buy a pump ($50 from a repco) or if you knock out the hole at the bottom, you can put a tap on it, just like a Jerry can.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah I will look into this. Thanks

[@28cruzin]

This is getting exciting! I have twin 5.9 Cummins in my boat and they're sweet. I was thinking you could mount an aux. hydraulic pump on your generator and keep hydraulics going if you lose main engine power. Going the places you plan to I think I would install a wing engine. They sit idley by with their own prop shaft and a folding prop until you need them. Some have generators also and though they won't make a lot of speed they can keep you making headway while the main engine is repaired. A little 4cyl nonturbo Cummins from an old forklift would be ideal as a wing engine. How do you plan to heat the boat when underway?

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah I like the idea of a seperate hydraulic pump on the genny, we have looked at wing motors but given the ice work we are hoping to do they are high risk of damage mounted out the side. We have looked into secondary drive systems for the main prop (hydraulic and electric). As for heating the boat, water radiators throughout the boat using engine waste coolant heat, and/or genny waste coolant heat, lastly diesel boiler heating the radiators. As for fuel, fuel tanks heated with waste heat scavenged from the exhaust and fuel lines heated with engine coolant jackets

[@MVSheKon]

Just a word of caution Damien, when starting an engine that's sat for a while, be prepared for a runaway and have a plan to shut it down. Cheers Mate.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Rick yes as best we could we allowed for that. Hence the manual fuel ball valve so I can kill fuel and after that it was a case of ply over the turbo to kill air just in case

[@erniejohnson547]

The stock PTG system you currently have works fine in a truck with the operator controlling the intermediate engine speeds with their foot. The engine will not over speed which is set by the max RPM setting and idle, foot off, ensures the engine won't stall. In a marine application you want to run the engine for days at less than full throttle . I think you said something about cruising at 1600 revs. With a Min/Max set up the rpm will drift, at part throttle, hence the desirability of a variable speed governor. While the load on the screw may be constant other engine loads, hydraulic pump output, alternator load etc, will of change with a corresponding change in fuel delivery.There are electronic governor retro fits out there (not Cummins ) but for your application I would think one of the Cummins variable speed governors would be a good choice. The HVS is the simplest while the MVS is more complicated with an extra set of weights and springs. The MVS version gives a more precise speed control with a little tighter speed droop but if you aren't running a generator probably not an issue in your case. You shouldn't have too much trouble finding a variable speed pump because every thing now pretty much uses electronic unit injectors. Possibly one of the diesel injection repair shops might be able to give you a lead on where to find such an animal. Best regards Ernie J

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Ernie

[@erniejohnson547]

Hi Damien, Is your Turbo a Garret maybe an (TA6?) Should be some used ones around. A Hydraulic variable speed governor HVS or a Mechanical Variable Speed MVS would work. There were or probably still are conversion kits to convert the plain old min/max PTG over to HVS by adding the governor assembly on top of the pump. The MVS is a whole different pump housing. Here in Canada concrete mixer trucks and some big Ag tractors commonly used variable speed governors on the 855. Regards, Ernie J

[@ProjectBrupeg]

What is the advantage of an HVS/MVS over what we currently have?

[@mainengines]

Worked on Cummins for 38 years, never heard of HVS - by definition, MVS is Mechanical Variable Speed. Where ever the throttle is set the governor keep the RPM's constant, at that position.

[@cmcmillan22]

watch out when switching from keel cooler to internal. just went through this on a boat where the gearbox cooler was hooked up to the hot engine coolant and the gearbox was overheated glazing the clutch pack. the gearbox will have a max temp and it's usually way below operating temp on the engine. it's meant to be raw water cooled or cooled with the water fresh out of the keel cooler. And remember even in the arctic the keel cooler will work fine, it's thermostatically regulated and will do a good job. just becomes a bit risky in ice.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah we were thinking of building a sea chest style cooler. As we need to cool the main engine, the gearbox, the intercooler and the generator

[@SteveWrightNZ]

Steel hull-integrated cooling all the way...

[@cmcmillan22]

@@ProjectBrupeg if you ever need advice send me a message, we've talked on Facebook I'm a certified marine engineer

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Cody, yeah I remember our chats. When we come to more of the engine work I most likely will call on your knowledge as I don’t know what I don’t know and I suspect getting you involved will help me design out problems before they even arise. Thanks for your support, it’s really great having you along with us.

[@steveemery2880]

Pete is right! No teflon tape on fuel or hydraulic fittings. Permatex or Loctitie

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Steve, we will be changing these pipes out in a few weeks when we plumb the main tanks up so goo to know what products to use, thanks

[@garynew9637]

I didn't know that, reasons?

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Tape can break off and clog vital parts. Thread sealant doesn’t have that issue as it is able to break down more and less risk to break downstream pipes or filters

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

In the states we use the term NPT "National Pipe Thread". What does BSP stand for? Just wondering, Barry

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Barry, British Standard Pipe, slightly different pitch etc than NPT

[@erniejohnson547]

Couple of comments. Your little trawler is coming along nicely. I'm sure you are eager to get her into the water.. Are you going to be using the air brake compressor on the engine, if not it could be removed and the pump will connect directly to the auxiliary housing. It appears as though the engine still has its engine brake not something you need on a marine application. You should really investigate a variable speed governed pump for your engine, you won't be happy with your current min / max one. A water cooled turbo exhaust housing would keep the engine room a lot cooler. You might want to consider an auxiliary hydraulic pump internal combustion or electric you have a lot of critical equipment hydraulically controlled. Further suggest you get a spare set of injectors and if you don't know how learn how to do a valve and injector adjustment. You are most likely aware Cummins PT injectors are best replaced in matched sets. That's my two bits worth. Regards Ernie J. here in Alberta Canada

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Ernie, let me go through each point, We are not 100% sure if we will be using the compressor or removing it, for now its staying but I'm in two minds about it as its capacity is fairly small. We do need a compressor for our fuel processing system but I'm thinking we will strip down my big 3 phase industrial compressor rather than use the small engine mounted one. Yes she still has her Jake Brakes, these are there for those times we come into a marina a bit hot... Nah they are getting removed at some point in the near future. Variable speed governed pump, i dont know much about them so will definitely investigate that. I like the idea of a watercooled exhaust manifold, if I can find one second hand i will grab it, however if i have time one day (and I'm sick of a hot engine room) then i may just build one in thick wall stainless. We will be creating a backup hydraulic system as we need a minimum of two layers of redundancy for the areas we are going to. As for spare parts, we will be stocking a full engine rebuild kit onboard, (im an ex heavy diesel reconditioner) so we should have the ability to solve 99% of problems we will encounter at sea. Thanks for your feedback Ernie, great to have you along. Damien

[@mainengines]

Ernie Johnson, you are correct, the Jacobs Engine Break is still on this engine and could be eliminated. It would take 3 rocker box gaskets, 18 standard length rocker box bolts and three oil passage plugs. Optional items are six injector adjusting screws and six valve cross heads.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Good to know

[@mainengines]

The main drain fitting on the back of the engine, is usually a 45° flare, or at least it was for the 38 years I worked on Cummins engines. LOL

[@fowletm1992]

We made a tensioner for our Cummins in our tractor with a bit of time rod Found the alt kept sliding back in a bit and releasing tension Of you wanted a better fuel filter should look at what tractors use Our filter is 4 times larger

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Good to know the alternator is likely to slip, thanks for that. This fuel filter is the last in the line, prior to the fuel reaching this filter it would have passed through 4 other fuel filters and we have a constant fuel polisher system that will be running, I really dont see this filter ever having to do any work but I want something there just in case. That said these are cheap filters so if you know of the part number for a larger version flick it over and we will keep a few in stock for when we need to change.

[@fowletm1992]

Yea true I forgot you guys have other filters on a boat The tractor only has 1 filter I shall look for a number this arvo Should have one on the shelf

[@fowletm1992]

Also if your looking for batterys Caterpillar batterys are cheapish for what they are We use new holland batterys in the tractor but they're 1000cca each and uses 2 and very expensive I believe you were a mechanic so you prob have a friend of a friend that works at cat and can get staff discounts That's what I do now $200 for a battery for my landcruiser

[@fowletm1992]

Sorry for the late reply i was watching the video in parts chasing sheep around the farm P551047 is the donaldson fuel filter number But your filter housing is prob different being a marine engine

[@ninnibontich8900]

Try pouring oil with the spout at the top of the bucket, air wont gulp through the hole/liquid and makes pouring predictable

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Ninni, yeah I agree about pouring with the spout at the top. I got lazy but it was only an issue for the first few liters and then it flowed fine.

[@johneaston2348]

May I suggest Racor fuel water separator filters -they have an excellent product for marine applications.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi John. This filter is the last resort for something to be caught. Prior to hitting this filter the fuel flows through four seperate filters (two with water seperation) taking particular size down to 1micron. So it’s unlikely this filter will ever see particles big enough for it to even catch. It’s just an added layer of security for us really

[@ajmac5735]

Nicely explained. Thanks. 👍

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Alex

[@18twilliams]

Nice engine room! You need a big AGM battery, very expensive stuff, and details, details, etc.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Working on part 2 now, we solved this fairly easily actually

[@edwardseastrom9480]

You should pump the old heat exchanger for secondary options just install valves.

[@nzsaltflatsracer8054]

A single engine vessel in the southern ocean, been there many years ago with an engine failure down by Macquarie Island & it cured me of ever going to sea again. What's your thoughts on possible backup power while you're still in construction mode?

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Firstly keep the main running, full engine rebuild kit including spare turbo, crank and rods kept onboard with the tools needed to change any part, secondly we have looked into secondary propulsion via a drive system on the main shaft via either hydraulic or electric means. In saying that single engine commercial bots in the southern ocean are the norm with twin engine setups the exception down there.

[@nzsaltflatsracer8054]

I bough a good used Big Cam Cummins for a customer here in Idaho a few months ago for $1500 but I'm picking they're not that cheap down there. It'd be a shit of a job if you had to put a crank in that one or even a piston & rod! I see a gantry crane in your future Mate!

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi, thanks for your concern.Single engine boats are the norm in that part of the world, we'll deal with whatever happens Cheers Jess

[@dcrahn]

Good job so far. When will part 2 be posted? The only other comment I have is using oil on the threads of the harmonic balancer. Due to the vibrations it is subject to, they will have a tendency to loosen. I always use Blue Thread Locker, while it is wet it lubricates the threads for torque, and when it sets ups it helps lock the bolts in place but can be removed if need be later. Blue thread locker only, not Red.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah that’s a good practice. If I had threadlock I would be happy to use that. Part two will be released to our patreons in 3 days (www.patreon.com/brupeg) and to youtube in 7 days

[@mikeskelly2356]

If you can't get perfectly matched belts, try rigging a pair of adjustable spring loaded idler pulleys to press on the 'slack' side of the belts. They don't need to be overly robust as they just absorb any slack in the unloaded side of the belts. They also increase the time between adjustments needed to re-tighten the belts to prevent slippage. ; {

[@geraldtonjjeeper]

Excellent again!

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Geraldton

[@garynew9637]

Holding tank for oil changes at sea?

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Will be installing one yes

[@danielpearce73]

Those hoses will hyd supply will vibrate mate. Just a thought can you put a sleeve or spiral wrap over them. Would hate to see you loose steering when your offshore

[@87xfute]

Hi Dame, I was just going back through some of your old vids and i was just wondering, does the 855 have the same killer dowel pin problem as the 4 and 6 BT's do, I've looked and can't get a straight YES/ NO answer ! I was wondering if you know about the killer dowel pin if so has you done the mod to fix it !! Seeya Rob

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Rob, actually I’ve never heard of the dowel issue. What is it

[@foresterp.l3502]

Hey Damien, are you gonna put in isolation all around the engine room and the exhoust.. Greetz.NL

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yes. Heat deflectors around the exhaust to keep the heat away from the roof, and exhaust wrap to reduce the exterior temp. Engine will eventually have a sound proofed box built around it to reduce sound and engine room temp

[@philrusciano115]

if the engine fails will all hydraulic equipment incl steering fail?

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Phil, short answer is yes. This gives us additional motivation to keep this engine in perfect order. that said, most trawlers have a single main engine, we will have spares onboard ie (a full engine rebuild kit and a set of replacement parts for all critical components, worst case scenario we have the ability to use an emergency tiller on Brupeg)

[@andytaylor1588]

I will resist the temptation to post links to all the grounded ships whose engine failed. for redundancy's sake, an aux engine for the arctic might almost double the factor.

[@johntripp2028]

Is this cummins the 8.3 ISC Cummins. If so you do not prefill the fuel filter.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi John, it’s an earlier motor the 855 big cam 3

[@Greggspies]

Rally cars have straight cut gears there's less drag the trade off is noise

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yip they do. Helps change gear faster too if the box is built for that

[@royreynolds108]

I suggest getting a small electric or hand operated transfer pump to move oil or other liquid from a can, bucket, or barrel to another container so the first container doesn't need to be lifted or handled for the transfer. You said the alternator is 12V correct? I thought most diesel engines for trucks and equipment were 24V systems. Most of these use two 12V batteries wired in series to provide the 24V. Big diesel locomotives use four or six big batteries for starting. You need BIG wires/cables from the batteries to the starter and alternator to handle the amps on starting. There are charts available for determining the wire/cable size from the battery to the starter based on load and run distance. This is not the place to scrimp or try to save. Good luck.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Roy. In in part two we solve all of the challenges that were thrown up in this episode. And yes this engine is set up as 12v from factory. But most heavy diesels are 24v

[@JuzzyQld]

A 12v system to start that engine is insane. Just buy the same cables again and parallel them? Twice the current carrying capacity

[@ProjectBrupeg]

It’s factory so it can’t be insane. I agree higher voltage would be better but it’s not really that big a deal

[@soving]

Awesome vid boss. Really excited to see your project come together. Not sure I would have the patience to tackle that big a project. Crazy what dreams will make you do :). Good you and the crew.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks very much. It’s funny this used to seem so daunting when we first realised how much work was involved but step by step you can get there. It’s mostly about just continuing. Glad to have you along with us Soving.

[@BulletBait197031]

Noticed that the tread tape on the return line was put on the wrong way not a big deal as it's not under pressure so it shouldn't leak but if it does leak that's why

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks I will keep an eye on that

[@BulletBait197031]

@@ProjectBrupeg no problem. Really you shouldn't be using thread tape on fuel lines as little bits will come off but I think it's only a temp fix to run the engine. Once you are going to do the full plumbing use something like Permatex or Loctite

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks, yeah we have been fitting it up with the loctite product recently as we fit some of the permanent parts.

[@Aussietrucker]

Trucks I drive have 4 N150 or N200 battery’s to crank them I have a Gardner 6LX in my boat and she uses 4 N70 battery’s but it’s 24 volt so I can get away with the smaller ones

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Ok good to know thanks for that aye. What size engines are the trucks?

[@Aussietrucker]

Steel Boat Adventures - Building Brupeg C16 Cummins 16 litre 600 Hp

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Ok so our engine could act as the starter motor for them! I do like the idea of multiple batteries for redundancy though

[@Aussietrucker]

Steel Boat Adventures - Building Brupeg I love my Gardner 10 litres per hour at 8 knots 50 foot 35 ton timber trawler style cruiser.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah I do love Gardner’s. I would have put one in Brupeg if I could find one for a decent price but alas. We have a Cummins that will see us out

[@rvhmon656]

I don't get that manual valve on the puel pump intake. If you open that valve the fuel pump sucks air and pushes nothing. For that plumbing arrangement you need a pusher pump at the source ie in fuel tank and push fuel up the line to that valve. Opening that manual bypass valve then will flow fuel instead of air and give a flushing action.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

It’s mainly a safety thing. If the engine starts and I can’t shut her down I have the ability to kill fuel supply instantly. We will be installing a fuel pusher at the tank end however for this temp setup we were able to get everything working just using the vacuum created from the pumps vane drive. Once the line is full of fuel it doesn’t have the ability to create an air pocket (so long as the pipe is always submerged in the fuel drum)

[@finnsailing69]

so... you do know that it´s recommended to use hot air gun for heat shrink? not open flame... just asking :) (i don´t want to sound mean)

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah I do, but I had a torch and it works without any drama if you don’t hold the flame on it, gotta keep it moving

[@richardbohlingsr3490]

Lots of little jobs need to be done before the engine will fire. Start checking them off one by one. The check list in a good idea because it keeps you from forgetting something really important. Always moving forward to the big day.

[@Kevinwatches]

I don't do the patreon because I'm a broke college kid lol but you should add one of those amazon links so if I ever buy anything I can use your link! (I do this with SailLife too!)

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Kevin, I would love to do that but I'm not sure Amazon allows me to do it because we are based in Aussie. That said if you dont skip the adds we get a tiny tiny bit more review form KZbin (like $0.0000001) but it all helps!

[@CraigOverend]

@@ProjectBrupeg Never used it but Amazon's affiliate program appears to be in Aussie. affiliate-program.amazon.com.au/ Another channel I watch created an Amazon Wishlist and people actually buy stuff from it.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Craig I will check this out. Really appreciate this mate

[@JuzzyQld]

Trouble with using the bucket is dust and contamination.... Buy a drum pump, save your self and your gearbox.

[@davidp8594]

Never a good idea to use Teflon Tape in engines or hydraulic systems. Tends to get stuck in bad places. A liquid thread sealing compound like Loctite is a better choice. You should only use Teflon tape as a last resort, while making sure that you use the plumbers rule: one and a half turns; one and a half threads back. Great video and getting closer to the splash.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks David we will keep that in mind

[@Kevinwatches]

Made that mistake with the hydraulic system in my excavator, ended up clogging radiator, live and learn lol

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Good to know Kevin. The only place we have thread tape in this engine or hydraulics is a couple of fittings in the temp fuel lines before the fuel filter. Given we are replacing these lines soon I’m ok with the risk and we won’t be having sealant in the new ones (all hydraulic fittings at that point)

[@frankkreyssig7626]

Diesel fuel systems and hydraulic systems are two places you do not use teflon tape! Because when it comes apart and gets stuck in small places it will cost you money and aggravation. 40+ years as a marine engineer people using that stuff has made me a lot of money.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi Frank. Yeah we have changed out all tape for the gel stuff. Really impressed with the stuff in a tube

[@danielpearce73]

Is that engine big enough for BruPeg bud ?

[@cmcmillan22]

you need a pair of 8D's to start that motor.

[@cmcmillan22]

sorry for the barrage of comments, i type them as i watch the video lol.

[@kevinhornbuckle]

Or four group 31s.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thats all good mate, now that we have bleed the system we can actually turn this thing over cold with a tiny car battery! that said we currently have 1x N200 and will be adding another to duplicate the system and halve the amps needed per battery

[@allenklingsporn6993]

Gotta be careful while torquing bolts on the engine. Most of those bolts weren't designed for wet torque (torquing with oiled bolts). Make sure you're following the manufacturer's specifications. I work in Quality for a company that designs and manufactures those Cummins air compressors.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks Allen I will check my work.

[@Digimer]

First video with "Subscribed 10k" :D I'm sure Ryan already noticed, but the focus seemed off most of the video. Was this shot on the new camera?

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Actually most of this was old camera. Started to have a world of issues with auto focus on our older HD camera we used, the new 4K camera is much better but still learning it so it’s also not perfect (yet) but it has the capability to be brilliant so image quality should go up markedly from here

[@Digimer]

Looking forward to it!

[@michaelpage7691]

HTF can you get your fittings to nip up at the right angle......I can never get them aligned.....I hate you.. Pictures of the old room were very good.🤣🤣🤣🇦🇺👍🏻

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Lol pipe sealant and accepting if it’s not perfectly tight knowing the pipe sealant will seal it up. Sounds dodge but it’s not and done right it does work

[@SailingYachtZora]

I always did peg you as an Avril Lavigne fan.

[@didzy02]

Sailing Yacht Zora hahahha, I think that was Jess’s playlist 😉 yes.....Jess’s? Hahha.

[@SailingYachtZora]

@@didzy02 nah Damo loves that stuff. He prefers katie Perry.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Why’d you always have to be so complicated?

[@svalchemy]

Avril's one of ours. We replace that word with "constipated".

[@Matty12787]

I'm glad i'm not the only one that when i f up i call my self a dickhead😂

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Honesty is the best policy

[@erniejohnson547]

Hi Joe the hydraulic version used here in Canada on some Ag equipment, loaders and some mobile applications like mixer trucks.

[@mainengines]

Ernie, been retired for 12 years, so Hydraulic Variable Speed is probably new to me at least. Assuming my interpretation is correct. on the H V S that is.

[@guesswhotoo6]

Batteries for cranking the engine are now shifting to super capacitors maintained by Li and or lead acid traditional batteries. CCA's are well above any traditional batteries. The life of these will far exceed traditional batteries as well. They are not damaged by full discharges. You will need a 24V version if your system is 24V, not 2 12's in series unless voltage balancing circuits are used! Note the massive available amps. for example: www.maxwell.com/products/esm/24v-esm or cheaper not better XS Power SB500-65 Group 65 12V Super Capacitor Bank, 4000 Watts Rated at over 100,000 cycle life Max Amps: 10,000 BCI Group Size: 65 Weight: 11 lbs www.techbatterysolutions.com/ In addition I use these AGM batteries which are resistant to full discharges and are worth the extra $ www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-31m-pc2150st-battery.html

[@ProjectBrupeg]

good to know where things are heading, makes sense to use capacitors to start given there ability to throw amps at the starter. That said we need really basic reliable fix it anywhere in the world type systems so we will be sticking with flooded lead acids for now.

[@guesswhotoo6]

Steel Boat Adventures - Building Brupeg Thanks for your comments. I think the idea is with life of 100k cycles your not going to have to fix the starter source. Anyway it’s easily swapped for a old lead acid in a pinch. Some other benefits of higher energy starts may be longer starter life as the current will be lower if voltages don’t sag. You get higher rpms and quicker starts so less wear on the commutation bars and brushes. A discharged lead acid battery may not be revived by solar cell charging, however a super capacitor can be brought to full charge even if it takes a day or two in dim light. I use super caps with low drop diodes in series to back up the electronics stacks too. Gives several hours supply to radios in emergencies. Project is really taking shape!

[@ProjectBrupeg]

It’s something I’m very curious about but it’s low down on the list for me (still gotta get floating yet) however once we have the boat wet and the interior built we will continue to tinker and perfect the systems. The ultimate goal is massive reliability and very little down time so lithium and capacity type energy storage is something we would definitely look at

[@ferguson20diesel49]

Fiat-agri engines were great in boats.

[@johntimbs6118]

G'day Damien . look at the circumference of your 2 alternator belts there will be a small patch of usually numbers that is the batch number the belts were cut from look to get 2 belts with the same batch number that will ensure a better match , take the belt s or the numbers back to where they came from to try to match a pair would do this most day where i once worked . My second point is your final fuel filter it appears to be an equivalent Fleetguard FF213 upgrade from FF105 my recommendation would be at least usa a Fleetguard FS1000 10 micron rated not 20. larger capacity finer filtration + has a water trap . next step up is FS1009 the marine up grade of FS1000 All have a standard 1-14UNS-2B thread seal spec . Check out catalog.cumminsfiltration.com/catalog/partsearch.do?reqCmd=PartInformation&partNumber=FS1009&partflag1=5&forPartNumber=FS1000&criteria=part Goon on ya best wishes to you all . JPT

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Thanks John, I will research those part numbers. Prior to the fuel getting to this filter it’s passed through 4 filters going down as low as 1micron. This filter really is an absolute last resort and in normal operation won’t even see any partial big enough to filter out. We haven’t built it yet but our onboard polishing system and oil processing unit will do the vast majority of the heavy lifting

[@dieselengines1760]

Hello I see your efforts but you have some things not right, when you spoke about the gearbox oil cooler you said that you plan to pass hot engine water in the oil cooler. That is wrong, sea water needs to pass in the oil cooler to cool the oil. BTW had no time to see all the video. Regards AT

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Hi AT, yeah we won’t be using that heat exchanger for gearbox cooling at all as we are using external keel cooling pipes. We will be using it as part of our vege oil conversion passing hot engine coolant in so that we can lift the temp of our vege oil to above 76 degrees celsius just prior to it heading into the injection pump

[@dieselengines1760]

to do that you can use a small oil cooler but using it the other way round , that is run engine water in the sea passage side and run the fuel in the oil side . about biodiesel if made properly you can use it at ambient temp unless in subzero conditions . going back to the gear box oil cooler you must have oil cooler there is no way around it. keel cooling is not popular in our seas but i have some exp on this, you can weld some u channel with the hull under the engine room and use it as independent from the main engine keel cooler dedicated only for hyd oil and gear box oil in conjunction with heat exchanger but you will need to have seperate pump to circulate cooling water from and to oil cooler to keel cooler .

[@ProjectBrupeg]

Yeah the gearbox is currently on its own keel cooled circuit. And when we run on oil it’s straight vege oil not biodiesel so I must be heated to 76+ or we will damage the injection pump.

[@PCStuart1]

Hi mate, good job, are you sure your engine requires 12V? It's been my experience that those engines start on 24V, or maybe you are simply talking about your batteries and confusing us all by talking all with 12V. Check your starter cranking requirements pls. Take care.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

100% certain it’s 12v

[@dutybod1]

Big heavy battery = big heavy amps! Can you get hold of some aircraft batteries, 200 amp/hrs is 200 amps for an hour, far better than car batteries.

[@ProjectBrupeg]

And 90x the price. No need to reinvent the wheel plus I need super common components so we can find parts anywhere in the world

[@petejessop]

Like it videos but the music is damn annoying