e46 ews key dme synchronization guide

[@steamwhitehawk]

FRIENDLY REMINDER TO ALL. Assuming there is only a sync issue and no other issues with the car. A bad EWS to Key sync will cause a No crank, No start A bad EWS to DME sync will cause a Crank, No Start If your keyfob battery dies, it will only stop you from being able to use the buttons to remotely lock and unlock the car. It will not affect the transponder chip on the keyfob which actually gets its power wirelessly from the keyring antenna on your ignition cylinder. In other words, even with a dead keyfob battery, you can still use it to start the car.

[@habibhanna8354]

I have been having this issue with my e46 where the remote locking doesn't work. the central locking in the vehicle works via the button in the centre console. At first I thought it was an issue with the key fob (such as a dead battery) so i replaced the battery however this did not fix the issue. I tried the recoding procedure that I have seen online multiple times but that also didn't work. eventually I bought a new key from ebay (aftermarket) and also bought the ak90 programmer and programmed the new key. The new key starts the car however when trying to use remote locking it still didnt work even after trying the recoding procedure for both keys. I did more looking on forums and people were saying sometimes the fzv antenna amplifier goes wrong after some time so I bought a working antenna and replaced the old one however this still did not fix the remote locking. I did some more digging and found someone who had a similar issue to mine and they said "My problem is solved, problem was that EWS didn’t send command to the GM5 that my ignition is OFF, changing EWS fixed my issue." How would I go about changing the EWS? and do you think this would solve my issue?

[@steamwhitehawk]

wow, that sounds like quite the issue. So when you're doing the remote key initialization procedure, have you also tried doing it where instead of going to position 1 and back only one time, you rapidly do it 5 times? Also, after pressing the buttons on the keyfob, are you getting the normal reaction of the car where all the doors lock and then unlock? www.bmwofescondido.com/service/service-tips/how-to-program-bmw-key-fob/ Anyways, I've never seen this issue before but what you're saying sounds reasonable. You can clone your ews via ak90 fairly easily. You just take the latest .bin read from the old one and write it onto the new one. Just make sure you have either inpa or some scan tool ready in hand to resync the ews to the dme once you connect it back to the car. Also avoid swapping back and forth between the clones because once you use a key with the clone, it becomes out of sync with the original and it'll become a mess. In other words, once you make the clone, stop using the original or it gets messy. Hope that helps.

[@steamwhitehawk]

oh yeah and all doors have to be closed and unlocked

[@habibhanna8354]

@@steamwhitehawk thank you for responding, i tried the procedure turning it rapidly 5 times however the car didn't react whatsoever I will try cloning a new ews hopefully that will work

[@steamwhitehawk]

hey i just remembered something else, those aftermarket keys can actually change frequency channel depending on region. This one is a bit of a long shot but I thought it might be worth mentioning. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnTQaXlml6yCbZI kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpzNeHSLicdmjck Also, are there any fault codes for the GM5 or EWS3 modules when you hook up a scan tool?

[@raydijkstra8546]

Hey man, does this info apply to ews 3D as found in the bmw z3? Having trouble pairing the key to a replacement ews unit. Ews is synced to the dme so it starts up, but it needs the bridge on the starter wires.

[@steamwhitehawk]

Yeah, the ews3d also uses the 0D46J chip so the AK90 is able to pull the .bin from it. If you're trying to use an old key from a old ews with a new ews, you will have to clone the old one with the new one. Make sure they are both the same part number too. Which step in the pairing is giving you trouble? oh and a side note, if you're able to start the car with the ignition switch pin jumpered straight to the starter pin on the ews connector then you most likely don't have a stock dme. Some past owner must have programmed a EWS delete into it. You might as well keep driving that way, it takes a lot of the hassle away.

[@kuenzelde]

Do you have an idea on how to change milage on EWS? I changed my EWS to one from junkyard. I Was able to change VIN on the "new" EWS, but when changing milage I get an error writing back data to EWS. Thank you for any tips

[@steamwhitehawk]

Hi, the AK90 is 100% capable of changing the milage that is written to the EWS. Unfortunately, I have seen this problem before a few times, The EWS you got has bad memory sectors. You can test it by trying to write all FF characters and then all 00 characters to the entire memory space using the AK90 tool. It will likely fail trying to do one of them. You can read back off the EWS afterwards and see the exact spots in memory that won't take the write. Basically, that little section in memory is stuck and won't change. If you're just trying to drive the car, you don't have to worry too much about matching the odometer and vin. The only things that really matters are the ISN and rolling codes.

[@kuenzelde]

@@steamwhitehawk Hi, thanks for the fast reply. I'm aware of the fact that it isn't exactly nessecary, but my inner Monk wants this to be alignt 😂 I will give it a shot. I was trying to find the section where the milage is stored searching for the hex characters (same like the ISN code shown in the video) but couldnt find the section unfortunaltely. I thought maybe this would be a way to trick the flash into doing it whatsoever. I have one more question. I was trying to write my orinial key on used slots which didnt work. Is there a work around for that? Is it possible to earse key slots? (not just disable them. I know that this is possible). Same thing here. I know I just could take a free slot, but it would be more neat if I could overwrite the original slots as I have all four original keys and then had back the original setup with only four slots used

[@kuenzelde]

@steamwhitehawk got milage fixed. EWS dump adresses 0x129 to 0x131 need to be changed. Little Tricky is that the milage is mirrored. Instead of 04 D3 E7 it's written E7 D3 04 What I am still struggeling are the keys. Would be great if you could help me out with adresses of the diffrent key slots

[@steamwhitehawk]

@@kuenzelde You can still use your set of old keys but only if you still have the original EWS module that those keys were paired with and can successfully pull the .bin off of it. The original EWS and and all the keys have a shared "Password" string of hex characters stored in them. In addition each key has it's own fixed code that will need copying over too. Unfortunately it will be difficult to reprogram these parameters with the AK90. There is an old tool called EWS editor 3.2.0 that can help you break down the bin file better but honestly the effort is not worth it. I imagine if you do have the original .bin file from the old EWS you can just flash it onto your new EWS and you will be able to get the old keys working again after resetting the rolling codes. Basically, you're clone the old ews. Other option is to just make new keys. The PCF7935 transponder chip is fairly cheap on aliexpress. The new keys that you program will just have its password and fixed code based off of whatever code is found in the new EWS that you have. Hope this helps.

[@johndoe-w3h]

I been having this issue where my e46 would not crank or start in the summer heat. Already changed starter, ignition switch, clutch switch, atenta ring, crank shaft sensor. Long story short sent my ews and keys to someone in California for a new ews and extra key to be programmed. Ews was the culprit with some tests. After receiving the new ews and keys I now don’t get a crank or start. There’s no power to the female connector of the ews.

[@steamwhitehawk]

Hi, If it's a M54 engine e46 then this might help you out. Even without a scan tool and only having a basic multimeter you can pretty much narrow down where the voltage isn't getting through to the starter. Test light will work too but not a precision tool. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4ndooFpabinqbc

[@SHIRLEYDANFAMILY]

Crank no start. Car been through periods of low battery aka trouble starting. Thinking along the line the ews and dme can't communicate. What do u suggest I do? E46 318i BTW. Cheers.

[@SHIRLEYDANFAMILY]

Car is obviously fully charged now, but has been sitting dormant here and there.

[@steamwhitehawk]

Hi, crank no starts unfortunately have like a million things that can cause them so troubleshooting can be fun. And yes the ews to dme communication can possibly be the issue but is rarely the problem usually and I would put it low in priority for testing. You should troubleshoot this the same way you would for any car's no crank no start. Check for any fault codes in your dme using a bmw scan tool. If everything looks allright then check your fuel supply next. Is the fuel good? Make sure your fuel pump is running and fuel pressure at the header is good. Do you still here the sound of the pump priming when you turn the key to position two. If all that is good then check the shape of the sparkplugs and air filter. Look for any massive vacuum leaks that may be causing it to stall out. After all this then try replacing the cam and crankshaft position sensor. Or if you have a O-scope then just test them. If you notice that you're not getting spark during your testing or event the fuel injector command signal then start looking into the dme.

[@masdab3259]

My car is e46 m43 with DME bosh bms46 complaints can work on the crank can't start and the temperature gauge shows stuck position, dme relay doesn't work is the method the same as in this video ,sir ? I am from 🇲🇨 please help!

[@steamwhitehawk]

Hello, most of the concepts with your key and ews still apply. You can just ignore the ms43 related stuff. A crank no start can be caused by a lot of other things too though. DME failure is possible but it is usually rare unless you had electrical faults happen. Are you still able to read any error codes with a scan tool? Are fuses good?

[@ignas7120]

Hey, thanks for the video, but can you explain what part should I pair, because some times I had that my car no crank and star, then I turn my key about 5-10 times and then it cranks and starts, but today I start my car and when I went from shopping I cant crank and start my car till now, I just turn key ant it won't start, no crank. Can you explain me what shoaul I do and did I need to get AK90? thanks 🙏

[@steamwhitehawk]

Hello, Nope I would not jump the gun too quickly with the ak90 as there are a multitude of things that can cause the scenario you just explained. I would recommend attacking the easy stuff first. Because you're telling me it always starts eventually, it leads me to think it is not any sort of hard fault but something that is borderline working/non working. Make sure the battery is strong and the ignition switch is in good shape first. If you figure out both those things are good, only then would i start looking into the ews module or your keyfob. Find anyone who has a bmw scan tool you can borrow and look into the ews3 live data for more info for what might be locking your starter out. If you are feeling super electrically or mechanically inclined you can try following my crank no start video at kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4ndooFpabinqbc You can probably skip the part about fuses and the starter as those likely aren't an issue. Good luck.

[@ignas7120]

​@@steamwhitehawk also I forgot ro write that my car is on manual and I try to start them with another car, but it won't start

[@steamwhitehawk]

@@ignas7120 ok if you tried jumpstarting it with another battery already then the issue probably isn't your battery. Since the car is a manual transmission, you should add the clutch pedal switch to your checklist of items to check. A bad clutch pedal will lock out the EWS, you will see the state of the switch in the ews3 live data.

[@megacs912]

Amazing explanation, thanks!

[@steamwhitehawk]

Thank you for watching

[@steamwhitehawk]

COMMON EWS3 HARDWARE FAILURE SYMPTOMS 1) ISSUE: Bad Elmos 10029A Transponder IC chip SYMPTOMS: No Crank, No start -Using a BMW level scan tool, you will see in the EWS3, "live data" section that no key is recognized. There will be no genuine key number, and random code, rolling code, and password will all be bad. But also remember that a bad key chip will also have these symptoms. Therefore, rigorous testing should performed beforehand, testing MULTIPLE, KNOWN WORKING keys and having the exact same symptoms. A key ring antenna tester can also be used; You may notice that no radio waves are being emitted from the ring antenna. This will indicate that either the keyring is broken, or the Elmos chip is bad. SOLUTION: Have EWS module cloned/replaced or deleted OR just stop using that key number 2) ISSUE: Bad Memory Sectors on 0D46J chip EEPROM SYMPTOMS: Can be either Crank no start or No crank no start depending on which part of the memory is getting corrupted -If the issue is a No Crank, no start and you notice only 1 of your keys keep losing it's rolling code sync with the EWS. All your other keys are working just fine. You use the AK90 to resync that 1 bad key. It works once or twice with starting the car, and then loses its sync with the EWS again. You use the AK90 resync again and the pattern repeats. You even have that key replaced. For example, if it is key number 3, you buy a new blank key and program a NEW key number 3. The new key does the same exact thing. If all this happens, then you may have bad memory sector on your EWS3. More specifically, the memory for the rolling code of that key. -If the issue is a Crank, no start and you are getting fault codes in the DME for EWS anti tampering protection or something along those lines. All other EWS live data information is good, and key pairing is good. You use INPA and use the F2 option to Reset Start value sync/ "Startwert Zurücksetzen". The car may not even start or may get only 1 or 2 good starts before losing sync again. If the car behaves like this, there is a possibility that the memory sector of the EWS is bad or the DME could be faulty. Try replacing the EWS first. TESTING: Testing for bad memory sectors of the EWS is fairly straightforward. If you ever get a write error while using the AK90, then you have a bad memory sector. To thoroughly test this, first save a backup copy of your EWS bin file. Using any HEX editor, open your saved copy of that bin and modify it to make 2 new bin files. In one copy, edit all the hex values to 00 and save it. We will call it your All 0's file. Edit the file again and make another copy with all the hex values to FF. Call this your All F's file. By trying to write either of these files back into the EWS module, you are testing if every byte in memory is able to flip to all F or all 0. If you get an error writing either of these two files, that would mean that you have a bad sector in memory. You can use the AK90 to read back from the EWS and see which specific byte is bad. If all is good however, you can rewrite your backup file back into the EWS. If it is bad, then write your backup into a new working EWS module instead.

[@NortheastNomad]

Thank you

[@PrecisionBimmer]

I can't sync my ews and dme. It gives me an error

[@steamwhitehawk]

Hello, are both the dme and ews the original ones that came with the car? Would you happen to remember the last time the car successfully turned on and what may have happened that caused it to go out of sync? And lastly, what exactly is the real issue, Are you having a crank no start issue? Any error codes you see on scan tool?

[@PrecisionBimmer]

@steamwhitehawk no crank no start. Original dme and ews and also have a cloned ews. Started it, then turned it off in the span of 15 minutes, and then it wouldn't start again. Won't let me sync and give me an error.

[@steamwhitehawk]

@@PrecisionBimmer Oh I see you were able to start it one time at least. But you are telling me that after that one successfull start, now it will no longer crank? The issue may not actually be with dme - ews sync. If sync was the issue, the starter would keep cranking but the engine won't actually run. What tool are you using to do the sync? INPA? Remember that you can only sync a DME to EWS one time, and that is with a virginized DME. I am thinking that is the reason for the error you are getting as they are already paired... Instead, See if you can find the live data for the EWS, I think that would be a good place to start looking for more information