Steel or Aluminum, Which Tank To Buy? - Scuba Tech Tips: S12E07

Since there is no 'best' scuba tank, which is right for your diving? Alec highlights the key differences between steel and aluminum tanks around: benefits, cost, maintenance, buoyancy and your diving style.
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[@pacificcoast101]

Most of our diving is in cold water. Wearing drysuits, thick undergarments, 10mm hoods, and dry gloves, we need more weight than the average warm water diver. Rather than trying to carry that extra weight on our hips, we prefer to have as much weight evenly distributed as possible. Steel tanks help solve this issue by placing some of the weight on our backs. Many dive shops give steel tanks a little extra boost on the fills (some shops give a lot more) so we get more bottom time than we would with aluminum tanks.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Steel tanks can be filled to 3443 psi so that is a good boost to your time. Stay warm and safe.

[@ivoryjohnson4662]

Mr Pierce is the reason I dive and made my mind up to get certified. Steel is what I use , cold water, doubles and drysuit

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Well 30 years ago I could be your buddy with the same gear, sadly no more. Thanks for sharing Ivory and enjoy the big air.

[@garrettstevensen2467]

Steel all the way, especially with a dry suit in Monterey, CA. If I had to dive aluminum here, I would give up diving. I hate automatically rising to the service as I drop tank pressure...

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I loved kelp diving in CA while visiting my old friends there. Thanks Garrett.

[@timgosling6189]

Caribbean, thin wetsuit, ali 80 every time. UK, cold, drysuit, steel 12 litre is the tank of choice. Like you say it's all about buoyancy and how much and where you want your weight to keep the rig balanced. It's true that steel tanks are rated to 232Bar rather than 207 for ali but in my experience most dive centres will still only give you 210 even with a steel, and there aren't that many offering 300Bar. Also I think the stories of steel tanks going rusty are mostly behind us now; even my dive school's old battered items didn't have a rust problem after many years. But if guys are worried about the extra weight of steels when you're out of the water, don't be! In fact ali cylinders are generally heavier. A Luxfer S80 weighs 14.3kg whereas my larger capacity 12.2 litre Faber steel weighs 13.7kg. The ali ones need a lot more metal to contain the pressure so are larger and that's why they get floatier under water. So yes, do what's right for your individual diving needs. Thank you for another nice Tech Tips!

[@maxtorque2277]

Test pressure for a nominal 232 bar steel cylinder is 348 bar (150%) so there is certainly a small extra margin that can be used, with hot fills to say 250 bar, dropping to 230 or 220 once in the water! Getting a genunine 10 degC 232 bar is really difficult ime...... The only one i really try hard to get fully filled is my 3l pony, which being small, every bar counts, but being small it's actually really strong in comparison to a 12l cylinder. I've no idea what the true burst pressure on a 3l steel cylinder is, but i suspect it's pretty much impossible to reach in practice?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Thanks for the analysis Tim. Appreciate your watching and fair comments.

[@kevindavison6019]

The reason I watch your channel is for videos like this one. It gives the pros and cons of both options and leaves me to make my own decision. Rather than telling me what is best "because I'm a professional and I said so"! Thanks keep them coming.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I appreciate that Kevin. Glad you like these.

[@timchen7424]

Watched literally every video from Alec, the amount of scuba knowledge he has in his head is so massive that it generates gravity.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Know you know why there is no room for hair on my head!

[@Caderic]

Understanding facts and opinions is a hard thing some times. The "Why" is question asked by the wise!!! Great video, and I leaned a little bit more. I would love to have learned from you!!!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Well said! Thank Erikk but my teaching days are done so sharing my life's experiences on KZbin will have to do.

[@Josh-Jones]

Alec, I have just found your channels and have seen a few of your videos. I just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate your style of presentation. You are charismatic, have an amazing amount of knowledge, and explain things so thoroughly! Cheers!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Wow, thank you Josh. Lots more from this crazy old stone age diver. A

[@eddieguyvh4765]

Could not be more true! Depending on the use, steel and aluminium are both the best. Alu is great if you want to keep your weights on your body: if you're sidemounting, S80s will be very comfortable since they are very neutral. Your buoyancy won't change much if you take one off (or both). You still have to anticipate the fact that they're going to turn buoyant once they reach 70 bars or less. Steel still sinks when empty, which is great for taking weights off your belt. When backmounting with a thick wetsuit or a drysuit in cold water, that's almost mandatory if you want to be able to go down and hold your safety stops without taking 10kg of lead or more with you! And even then, people might have different ideas. Alec is 100% right, just get the right tank for your use ;)

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Thanks Eddie for the informative feedback.

[@bermudezhg]

In the 90s my second tank purchased was a Steel Tank sold by Scuba Pro and Made in Italy. My First was a 80 Aluminum and it was too bulky for me, a short stature male. Nobody else offered a 60 (??) cubic foot HIGH PRESSURE (3400psi) at the time. It was shorter than the Aluminium one and I sill have that steel tank

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I know Kevin uses steel HP 100's for his short / wide outline and they don't poke the back of his head on the boat. There are lots of HP sizes today but there are not many below 80 cu/ft or 12L.

[@matthewyoung2076]

Just the video I needed. Im headed home in a week and about to buy my own tank. As well as a new mask.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Glad to help out Matthew. Look back for videos on masks, and buying personal gear to prepare for your shopping trip.

[@autorog1234]

I say Alec is the 21st century Cousteau in scuba. 😂

[@nazrahim3543]

agree

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I wish i had his hair and could wear the red cap as cool as he did. Thanks for the compliment my friend.

[@diverbob8]

I started diving and I bought a steel 72 then, I still have it and it still tests and is no trouble, other than a tumble about 20 years ago. I've also had a pile of 80 Aluminum tanks, all of which have been abandon by their manufacturer, so I got left with about 6 untestable / unfillable aluminum tanks. I just bought a new tank last year and it's a steel 100. You can try to give me an aluminum, but I'm not going to bother with it! PS. The only aluminum that I still have is a Catalina and it's the only one that I will ever have until the day I hang it up. Oh yea, if I ever met someone from Luxfer, they would not like it!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I know what you mean about abandoned tank makers. Watch my At The Ranch video #44 Scuba Bells. At least they have a purpose other than recycling. Thanks for sharing Robert.

[@HWill-iq9sl]

Here in the desert area in the United States aluminum goes a lot further on the dollar cause of maintenance

[@scubaclient355]

Watching your dollars will get you killed in scuba diving.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I'm not familiar with desert diving but sound like fun Will.

[@Farfromhome_less]

Great explanation

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Glad it was helpful! A

[@DB-yj3qc]

Some of the best advice, when I lived in Georgia had a set of both 2 120cf steel and 100cf AL. and my pony bottle. When I moved to Alabama I ended up getting rid of my steel tanks. I preference was steel being I didn't need or use dive weights with them other than balance. Now with AL. tanks different situation but are so much less maintenance needed. The other big plus is already covered more bottom time, when I was diving in Florida I would do two dives on my steel tanks vs everyone else needing 2 tanks. Then again I'm a "odd ball" using DIN valve regulators and tanks. But I learned to dive in Germany and did a lot of dives in Austria dry suit, cold water and altitude.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Sounds like you have lots of experience and a very strong back. I remember using a DIN reg in the south (may have been a sample unit), with one of the new tank valve adapters ( both DIN and yoke). Many divers came to look and asked how it worked, was I from the UK, etc. With so many travellers from around the world (well not this year), almost every dive location I visited used adapter tank valves, screw in for yoke, screw out for DIN. Thanks for sharing DB.

[@carlosfuentes5025]

Always good stuff in this channel 👌🏽

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I appreciate that!

[@bristol8042]

...my own experience diving with twin 55 cu ft steel cyls, when they start to empty they use to float of my back upsetting my buoyancy, I now dive with Aluminium 12 lt cylinders, the steel ones are in the back of the cupboard never to be used again.......Alec your vids are always a great debate.....

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Sometimes debate is needed to get different points across to those who have not changed their diving gear from the 1970's.

[@chiranagheorghitaeugeniuth98]

Buy big 12L or 15L(long ones not dumpy) for the backmount/doubles but it's mandatory to also have Alu for the deco and stage tanks... they are way easier to handle. And when we talk 2 , 3, 4 stages/deco tanks besides the big steel doubles on the back.. that is the time when you start appreciating Alu. For the Argon inflation bottle I would never go with steel, my 1.5L Alu is perfect, lots of gas and very light. And yes way less maintainance on Alu but also more fragile.. pros and cons. Just find the equipment that suits the dive. Very good vid/advice Alec. Keep up with the good info. Regards, Theodor.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Nice to hear someone explain their tank usage so clearly and let others decide if it suites them. Not many divers know what Argon is used for let along picking a tank for it. Thanks sir.

[@Teampegleg]

Modern hot dip galvanized steel tanks don't require much care than an aluminum tank. Just a quick rinse after the dive. Sure at hydro time it requires a little more effort to hydro and then prepare for a fill but that isn't the responsibility of the diver. Also modern steel tanks use the same valves and parts as typical aluminum tank, the only part that is different is the burst disc. Painted steels require a bit more maintenance but I don't suggest people buy those except for fresh water.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I have noticed a trend with tank wraps becoming popular. Tank make to look like beer/wine bottles and other funny sayings. Not sure of the long term affect on the tank or how VIS and hydro tests use these. They are funny looking. Thanks for sharing Peg Leg.

[@jabertagi3857]

Helped a lot. Thank you

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

You're welcome!

[@jacquespoirier9071]

I have both styles, I can't discriminate one style against another but I can say that I use the aluminum when I go diving with a group because they ask that the pressure should not be under 1000 PSI at the exit of the dive , it is difficult to achieve when you start with a 2200 PSI steel tank, I've observed that a steel tank induces less buoyancy than the aluminum one, so I prefer use them when diving with friends.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

A nice point that you considered fellow divers and the safety limits of the group. Thanks Jacques.

[@petethehandyman9185]

Great info! Thanks

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Glad it was helpful!

[@DannyB-cs9vx]

I went with HP steel. They are not plus rated like the LP steel tanks, so they keep their full rated capacity after 5 years. Most aluminium tanks get positive bouyant when empty, Up to 4.4lbs, so if you don't want to pop to the surface and miss the 15' stop you need more weights at the start of the dive. For the same size 80 tank, the aluminium is heavier above water because the walls of the tank needs to be thicker. A Farber 80 hp steel weighs less than an aluminium tank at 28.3 lb and is minus 1.74 lb boyant empty. ( no extra weights needed) Aluminum 31.6 steel 28.3lb add another 4 lb to the Aluminum and it is 7.3 lbs heavier before the dive. I went with the 117cu' galvinized. Who doesn;t like more air? About 40 cu' more. (117 minus 77). The pre dive weight is only 2 lb more because you need 4lb more weight with the Aluminum to compinsate for it being bouyant when empty. Farber 117 weight empty 37.6 Bouyancy empty +0.35 lb Catalina S80 weight empty 31.6 Bouyancy empty +4.0 lbs.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Good to see you thought about the options and know your numbers. Enjoy the 117 dive while others are heading up!

[@DannyB-cs9vx]

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter You assume that I am not an air hog. Lol

[@MysticalDragon73]

Seems like from your explanation that new divers would benefit more from the buoyancy characteristics of steel since they often struggle with buoyancy control. So going from a negative to positive buoyancy as they breathe down their tank would make it worse

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

That is one aspect, balance is another. Some can really benefit from having weights lower, in a BC or belt, for control. There are lots of pros/cons for every aspect of dive gear. It takes practice, experience and trial and error to find a system that works. A

[@paulbaratta1566]

Steel all the way in the cold seas of New England!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Well my cold water days are behind me but I did love ice diving for many years. Enjoy the New England waters and wrecks.

[@aevans692]

I dive both steel and Alu at the same time ;) I dive with steel for my back gas , and dive alu for my stages ..

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Must be nice to have such a strong back!

[@sapperstang]

Most of my diving is in rivers and we stay on the bottom. The characteristics of steel tanks are far better for what we do. I own a couple steel 117’s. I also have a couple aluminum 80’s for backups but I don’t like to use them for this type of diving unless I have to.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Not to give away too much but look for a future video of my Super Tank. You will be amazed and afraid at the same time. Stay tuned.

[@mikkosport2300]

If diving in tempered water is allways "technical", I agree. However, if you dive with thick wet suit or dry suit you should have steel tank: less weight to compensate. In fact it's funny. The more technical diving I do the more aluminium tanks I have. Al is good choice for stages due to almost neutral charasteristics. As you notice it is not necessarily as simple decision as Alex said.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Good points. Different water, temperature, training and purpose affect tank selection. Nice to hear an open mind in these discussions sir.

[@maxtorque2277]

There are two specific use cases which favour two very different cylinder materials. Cold water diving in a drysuit, means lots of buoyancy in that exposure protection, so rather than carry a positively buouyant ally cylinder AND a lot of lead as extra ballast, you may as well just carry the more negatively buoyant steel cylinder. This is why in places like the UK, scandinavia and Europe, most divers are using steel cylinders The opposite case is also true, as specifically when diving side mount. Here your cylnders are less ridgidly tied to your body, unlike with a typical backmount harness (BCD or BP&W) so it makes life easier to use cylinders which stay closer to neutral buoyancy, and even are perhaps lightly buoyant. And here, with the side slung cylinders off your harness, you really don't want too much weight to lug around and manage, and are better off putting the necessary ballast on a seperate belt or harness, meaning the cylinders are easy to handle in and out of the water. Worth noting that the absolute buoyancy of the cylinder is irrelevant when it is ridgidly secured to you (ie backmount) because you will always have to be (slightly) negatively buoyant overall (otherwise it'll be a very shallow dive.... ;-), and in all cases, the change in buoyancy is only dependant on the mass of air that "escapes" the cylinder during your dive. The more air the more negatively buoyant you must start. So whilst two cylinders of the small working volume and pressure might be made of different materials and have an different absolute buoyancy, they change by the same amount during the dive, so in either case, your starting buoyancy (ie the additional mass you carry as ballast) must be similarly negative. Also, modern steel cylinders are hot plasma zinc coated on the outside, then epoxy painted, and tend to be phosphated or simiarly protected on the inside. This means they are actually pretty robust in most cases, certainly requiring far more than some scratched paiint in order to rust. The cylinder killer is however, getting water inside, where the high partial pressure of oxygen accelerates the rusting process. These days, most airfills are pretty good quality, and most divers never run their cylinders down to zero bar underwater.......... The final confusing thing is that an ally cylinder might actually be heavier when out of the water than a steel one despite being more buoyant when in the water. This is because the steel is much stronger (higher tensile strength) so for any given load it can use thinner walls to carry that load at a strain it can accomodate without failing, so as a whole (internal volume + volume of metal in structure) it displaces less water and so is less buoyant. Theoretically, a high grade alluminium cylinder could be both lighter out of the water, and more buoyant, but in practice, things like low cycle fatigue, work hardening, and a suitable safety factor limit the sensible performance of ally cylinders, this is especially true in areas of critical geometry and max stress, like the valve threads, which on an ally cylinder can cause issues historically, but are dam nigh on unburstable on a steel cylinder thanks to that higher tensile performance and crack resistance. So as Alex quite rightly points out, think hard and carefully before splashing your cash on some shiny new cylinders :-)

[@scubaclient355]

The cylinder killer is dive outlets smashing indents during hydro; when there are alternatives. 'Worth noting that the absolute buoyancy of the cylinder is irrelevant when it is rigidly secured to you (ie backmount).' The deeper you are the more gas you need to stay neutrally buoyant. Less lead is crucial if you have to ascend in an emergency.

[@maxtorque2277]

@@scubaclient355 I'm not sure the stamps are that big a problem. They tend to be in area's that don't hold moisture or are easily washed off, and the zinc layer tends to save the steel underneath (it's a sacrificial layer afterall) and the stamping is done on the top of the cylinder on the thickest part, which is far thicker than it needs to be to hold the pressure loads, so a bit of minor surface corrosion is easily removed and overpainted and the cyl will still go through hydro with little plastic deformation. I've got steels over 25 years old with a multitude of stamps on them that show little or no significant corrosion around them.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

As always, a very enjoyable read and education lesson Max. When is your KZbin channel starting?

[@Teampegleg]

@@scubaclient355 The easy solution for hydro stamps is to paint over them with a cold galvanizing spray. The moment a tank comes backs from hydro, I cover the valve and give the stamp a couple of sprays over it. My tanks don't get the rust you typically see on the hydro stamps.

[@scubaclient355]

@@maxtorque2277 I use Faber 12 liters and they are zinc coated but underneath it's bare metal. Luxfer cylinders specifically state in their maintenance guide that the cylinder crown is the weak point. Now, in the US, they hydro and stamp every 5 years while in Australia they stamp and hydro every year. Each stamp has about 4 to 5 markings punched into it. Can you imagine 25 years worth of indents? That would be over 120 hits with a hammer on the cylinder crown. And they say it's for your safety. Dive outlets want you to keep outlaying cash.

[@scubaclient355]

Cold water--steel. Alloy for freshwater and stages/decompression tanks. All the tanks should be 11 to 12 liters unless you continuously dive deep then use 7lt. O2, 9,lt. travel, 11lt. deco, stages. Makes it easier to juggle. If you have a weak back, use whatever works.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Good points SC. You know your tank needs.

[@mauriciomunoz6223]

Alec P does it again. "Here, have a basket filled with truth".

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Ha that's good, thanks.

[@HhhHhhh-pe8qt]

Thanks

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Welcome

[@panditreuvers]

Here in the Netherlands we use 95% steel tanks, but in my second country Egypt it's the opposite. In the Netherlands the minimum suite is 7mm neoprene ore a dry suit. In Egypt a swimming trunks and a T-shirt is enough for me in the summer. That is also a reason. Beside steel and aluminum we also use Carbon tanks, very light and can handle 4500PSI \ 300bar, Maybe you can also make a video of these tanks. One disadvantage of carbon I know that after 5 years you have to throw away the tank :-(

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I would but I have not seen a carbon tank here in Canada to do a review. Will add it to my list of future videos when I find one.

[@Atrinax]

The main issue with carbon tanks is their positive buoyancy. They are very great for firefighters though - lightweight and can take an astounding amount of beating. I believe I've seen mythbusters shooting at them trying to explode - didn't have any luck with that.

[@dtt3426]

i'll probably buy my first tank this year so timing is everything. i'm a breather and i'd like to buy a 100cu/15l tank. can i get this in aluminum or does it have to be steel? most times when i dive south and ask for 100cu tanks they're steel.

[@Bierstadt54]

You can get an al100. Most people much prefer the buoyancy characteristics of hp100 steels. It's hard to go wrong with al80's for warm water or hp100's for colder or longer dives.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

You can get Aluminum 100 but note the buoyancy characteristics compared to a AL80. You may want to go with steel 100 to reduce weight. See if a buddy or your dive shop has one to rent and give it a test dive before making a decision. Some scuba tanks lasted longer than marriages.

[@dtt3426]

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter is there a proper way to carry a tank. i've been told not to grab it by the valve. are there good things to carry tanks. if you dive wiarton you walk down a fairly steep hill. when i go to the dive shop before i buy a tank i'll check the weights between 100cu tanks steel and al.

[@scubaclient355]

@@dtt3426 Scubapro sells tank handles for divers. If you have doubles then lift under the valve stem or use trolley.

[@ELCAM1]

I’d suggest you balance your rig..a tech diver in a 3mm wetsuit should dive aluminum...or LP85’s. A tech diver in a drysuit should likely dive steel since they already have redundant buoyancy (the drysuit). It pains me seeing folks diving double HP100’s in a wetsuit...in the event of a wing failure how are they getting out of the water...they are way too negative. Same would apply to single tank folks...make sure you’re balanced..your ditch-able weight should not exceed the weight of gas carried in your cylinders. A side note a 7mm wetsuit and double HP100’s is not ok beyond 60’ as the 7mm will lose its buoyancy when compressed and make it nearly impossible for the diver to ascend with an emergency such as wing failure. Balancing also means you can hold a deco stop in the event of a problem including the loss of the ditch-able weight (not exceeding the weight of gas carried.). Some will argue a lift bag can be redundant buoyancy but it’s not easier then just being balanced from the beginning.

[@garrettstevensen2467]

Very important reminders. Especially if one has a backplate. Ditch-able weights will save your life.

[@scubaclient355]

3mm? A 5mm is a better choice. If diving a 7mm the suit compresses but correctly weighted should solve the problem; just like using double bladder wings.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Nice points, thanks for sharing.

[@benheckendorn2696]

Is there any different if you would fly quite often, if I remeber correctly the tank must be empty, but I would love to know more about, diving and flying.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

You can take tanks on an airplane BUT the valve must be opened to outside pressure. Meaning your letting outside air into your clean and inspected tank. When at your destination, the tank should be cleaned before filling to remove non-filtered air and contaminants. Thats why divers rent locally. Hope this brief explanation helps Ben.

[@benheckendorn2696]

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter so best to rent, I didn't know the tank need to be cleaned. Thank you so much, for your help.

[@Str8Flossin]

Alec, Will condensation form in the cylinder when you take it from the heat and sun into cool and cold water?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

If it was filled with proper clean and DRY scuba air, no condensation will happen inside. At your next annual visual inspection, ask your local dive store if you can look inside when the valve comes off and see inside. If using dry air and never letting the tank run empty, the tank inside should be dry and without any contamination. Take care Judson.

[@Str8Flossin]

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thank you for the quick reply and apologies if you have already addressed this topic in previous videos.

[@rickkinney7830]

Is there any reason not to use EAN (Nitrox) on all my dives (depth permitting)? I have two 80 cu. ft. aluminum tanks that are Nitrox cleaned and filled. I want to keep them that way so am reluctant to fill them with just regular air. I know you can and Nitrox fills cost more, but is there any real advantage to having a set of tanks for regular air and different tanks for Nitrox?

[@Bierstadt54]

If your air fills are coming from the same place as your Nitrox fills, check with them. If their air fills are sufficiently high grade it won't introduce contaminants into your tank. Same goes for other fill locations, just check. If your available air fills are a lower grade than your available Nitrox fills then it might be worth keeping dedicated tanks. Modern scuba compressors with properly maintained filters should not contaminate Nitrox tanks, but not every place has that.

[@scubaclient355]

You can use ordinary regulators up to 50% Nitrox. Anything above use O2 clean regulators.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

You can use one tank for both EAN and air fills with O2 up to 40% as long as partial pressure blending is not used. Watch S08E21 How is nitrox made, and S10E02 Is Tank O2 Cleaning Necessary. Safe diving Rick and thanks for watching. Kevin says hi too!

[@eldiabolico3750]

Steel for the sheer size and weight of it and the fact that it doesn't become positively buoyant during and after the dive.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I like that idea.

[@volvoman2324]

Don’t disagree but maybe another way to say it is if you are in a 7mm (or dry) you probably want steel. You said warm a couple times warm in LA is 65 at depth. Al are heavier, don’t last as long, often bigger. If you are a smaller person in a 7mm the shortie hp80s are amazing. That is to say your shape can kinda dictate what’s good for you?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Well Kevin's shape is more like a submarine! My wife it taller than me, prettier too and can dive longer on a 65 cu/ft than I can with a 80! I think she only breaths just to keep me calm. Thanks for sharing Mars.

[@billsixx]

I recommend always buying steel tanks. Ask everyone who bought those USD aluminum 80 cu ft tanks made from 6351. Aluminum tanks have a wider swing in full/empty bouyancy that you have to fight against. My opinions. You do whatever curls your hair.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

I agree, except for the curly hair Billsixx.

[@scmsean]

GUE teaches if you dive dry use steel. Dive wet use aluminum. I personally prefer to use if you dive cold use steel. Dive warm use aluminum. Then again, when I dive cold I'm in a dry suit.

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Great point John. Other divers take note.

[@dvoutila]

Are you interested in discussing any public safety diving gear?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Of all my diving professions: instructor, commercial, photo, video, vintage, I have not done public safety diving. Only police did it no civilians but that has changed. There are other channels with folks who do it and teach it so best to search for one of them.

[@Kebekwoodcraft7375]

So if you don’t know you should get a aluminum tank cause technical know which is good for him he won’t ask the question !

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Thanks Flatdog.

[@volvoman2324]

You are not wrong but used al tank are about $50 because people buy them and have issues then quit. They are cheap and part of gear packages. On the west cost most folks who dive often dive a bp and steel. It just works better even for new divers. Most good dive shops still use lp72 For rentals and training here. Even reef diving a 72 is a good tank. Al80 are just cheap that really the best thing about them

[@mariagarciagarcia5391]

Dear Alec, I’m so sorry, but I disagree, aluminun tanks are not standard tanks almost worldwide. In Spain we dive a lot, and aluminum is hard to see. Same in Italy, France, Greece... I’ve been in those places, with a great diving tradition. I’ve heard that steel tanks are standard in every European country. Anyway, I love your videos!!! Thanks

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Hi Maria. By standard, I mean the aluminum 80 cubic foot tank is a standard 'design' around the world, not that it is the standard everywhere. North America settled on the 80 cu/ft aluminum with yoke and the rest of the world on steel 12L with DIN. Both are the same design worldwide but are used in different countries. In my dive travels resorts used one or the other depending on where the majority of guests come from. Hope this helps and no offence intended to anyone.

[@mariagarciagarcia5391]

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Peace an love!! (And health :) ). No offence, I know!! Thanks Alec

[@TheLastRoman0000]

I'm considering switching to steel tanks. Do they require special regulators and such?

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

No difference in reg's or any scuba gear between aluminum and steel. Only the Hydro testing as a rust preventative is added when the tank is rinsed out to prevent rust. What ever you pick, enjoy it. A

[@TheLastRoman0000]

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks.

[@badgermoon9229]

Not a special reg, however you will need a din valve attachment rather than a yoke type attachment. There are adapters that you can use to attach a din reg to a cylinder with a yoke attachment. I have both types of cylinders and find it quick and easy to just switch my regs between yoke and din and not bother with the adapter.

[@sanderkik9639]

I thought Canada use the metric system. Why you don 't use it? Metric is so much easier to make any calculations according depth, pressure, partial pressure (EANx, EAD), air consumption, .....

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Canada is metric, i'm old so only half metric. I mix PSI, kilometres, Fahrenheit, grams and yards. The grandkids are 100% metric and laugh when I use imperial units but I'm old so I can get away with it.

[@lsorense]

We have too much interaction with the US in many fields. Diving being one of them. I have my depth set to meters (because a foot means nothing to me) and temperature in C, but have the pressure in psi since that is all anyone ever uses around here for fills and everything else. Now the measuring of tanks in effective volume (ie 80 ft³) versus actual volume (ie 12L) is quite silly and does complicate some calculations.

[@Wiiswis]

Hello, I am looking for a way to contact you. I found some vintage Sportsways Diving Masks in my basement, and wanted to know more about them. I asked on Reddit and was pointed in your direction. Is there an email I can send some pictures to for additional information? Thank you, hope you are well!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Welcome to email me pictures to [e-mail].

[@AndrewR74]

Rust free fill? WTF? Hydro is exactly the same, vis, 1 or 2 extra steps. Dude!

[@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter]

Hydro test are a much more complicated test as the tank is filled with water, not so in a Visual test. Watch these two to see how much more work hydro test are than visuals: S10E187 Hydrostatic Testing A Scuba Tank, Part 1 + S11E04 Part 2