Shooting 35mm Film in a Medium Format Camera

[@DominikNal]

Very good video, I think it's convinced me to use up my 35mm film on the only camera I use - the 67

[@btrdangerdan2010]

Photography and aviation, what a match to bring on a unique perspective.

[@simonbaker4834]

Great shots in prairie land🍁. Love the train yard and dual 70's pickups. Great tutorial. Thanks. Sprocket holes 100%

[@StefanWorks]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback!

[@Smatthew1200]

those black and white shots in the end are bonkers. great content!

[@AHigherPerspective]

Definitely looks best not cropped, its so unique and is something you don't see anymore. Love the contrast and the film grain....definitely not the same as emulating it in post. Just sharp enough to not be eye bleedingly sharp like digital. Nice to see you posting video here and there, I've also been unofficially given a ph2 course date of Apr 2021, so if you're still teaching you'll have to bring the camera around for a show and tell.

[@btrdangerdan2010]

I like the shots with your flight comrades.

[@Narsuitus]

I have never used the Hasselblad Xpan to obtain a 24x65 aspect ratio on 35mm film. I have, however, used a Fuji GW670 with a fixed 90mm normal lens to obtain a 24x68 aspect ratio on 35mm film. I have also used a Mamiya RB67 medium format SLR to obtain a 24x68 aspect ratio on 35mm film. I usually use a 50mm wide-angle lens or a 90mm normal lens on my RB67 to capture panoramic images. When I want an even greater aspect ratio, I use a Fuji GSW690 with a fixed 65mm wide-angle lens to obtain a 24x83 aspect ratio on 35mm film.

[@athanasiospatsis7720]

Really nice shots!!!

[@StefanWorks]

Thanks! 😁

[@saikatduttachowdhury535]

Nice demonstration of 35mm in Medium format! FIY: I liked the cropped version much better and pleasing!

[@timothylarson3558]

Another excellent video! I love shooting full sprockets!

[@nicklopro]

This is my dream camera for sprocket panos! Well really any 6x7 or 6x9 would be even better I guess. But the 6x7 is so legendary. I've been making sprocket "panos" in my Yashica Mat 124-G, but it is a very cumbersome shooting experience. If you got a second check out one of my sprocket youtube shorts. They're mostly comedic and not very informative, but I think that's perfect for the nature of Yashica sprocketing. Never thought about that no crop/rotate composition point you made. Good thing I like wacky dutch angles lol Those Trucks do slap though. Kudos and thank you so much for sharing! Subscribed

[@messsucher]

I shoot 35mm in my pentax 6x7 with 2 sets of adaptors and a 35mm canister on the right. This actually allows you to open the camera at the end of the roll and cut the film into another canister, so you wouldn't have to prepare the 120 backing paper or roll it back into the canister. Only thing is that you have to remember to mark the canister since the film might be different.

[@StefanWorks]

Yeah, that's another solid method that many others use! It does however require a 2nd set of adapters, and I believe uses more film during the loading and initial advancing steps.

[@messsucher]

@@StefanWorks oh yea, it does waste more film on each roll tho, I just try to move the counter really close to 1, then closing the back door

[@colinstu]

Uncropped is awesome! This worked out better than I expected. You should try this with some other 35mm stocks that aren't available for MF.

[@CallMeRabbitzUSVI]

Like Ados CMS 20, they have since stopped production 120rolls (Machine to make them has been down for years)

[@ericgotz5368]

Hey man nice video and great explanation. But what did you do with the camera when you unloaded the film? Please help

[@StefanWorks]

Good question! I just opened the camera in complete darkness, and removed the 35mm film. The I had to manually rewind the film back into the canister by hand (just spinning the top spindle with my fingers). Once the film was rewound into the canister, I was able to bring the canister into the light and process normally (lab or self-development).

[@carandmel]

Great shots!

[@StefanWorks]

Thanks! 👍☺️

[@scagz4518]

what program do you use with your epson v800 and settings. I haven't gotten the sharpest results with mine.

[@paulcrutchley4348]

Really enjoyed the video, thank you. Could this idea work for a Yashica Mat TLR? Or other medium format cameras? Thank you.

[@StefanWorks]

Absolutely it can, though keep in mind TLRs advance the film vertically, so your shots will look narrow and tall rather than short and wide like these. Search online for examples: "35mm in a medium format camera" or a specific camera model.

[@Stego86]

I use a slightly different method: instead of using paper from a 120 film, I use a 135 canister with some 135 film attached to it, but the rest it's the same! Could you please explain me what changes when scanning the way you do? I own a V850 Epson scanner but my scans look nothing like that!

[@StefanWorks]

Ah, I've seen the method of taking up into a 2nd 35mm canister, but as I understand, it requires a 2nd set of 35mm to 120 adapters and an empty 35mm canister? I don't know if anything technically changes when scanning on glass vs using a holder, but it's the best way to scan the entire film area. You just need ANR glass to hold the film flat and to set the scanner to 'transparency wide' so it knows to focus on the film sitting directly on the glass bed rather than 'holder', which focuses a few millimetres above it.

[@Stego86]

​@@StefanWorks thanks I'll try! Yes I do use a second set of spacers and an empty 35mm canister I found in a kit on ebay with film and prism masks. I also use a changing bag so I can swap rolls when the first one is finished :)

[@GaryED44]

This should work with a Holga correct?

[@StefanWorks]

Ooo, might not... Well, it could... But you would have to COMPLETELY tape over the red window on the back, otherwise the light coming through it will expose the 35mm film (no paper backing to protect it). And if you cover that red window, it will be difficult to know how many turns to advance the winder knob. I guess you could put a roll of 120 through the holga first, and take note of the rotations are require to advance each frame **note that it changes throughout the process of the roll being shot, as take-up spool becomes thicker with film**

[@GaryED44]

@@StefanWorks Thanks my friend, budget wise a Holga is the best I can do. if I pull it off I'll let you know.

[@StefanWorks]

@@GaryED44 Please do!

[@anotherguycalledsmith]

@@StefanWorksHa, this is exactly what I wrote this other guy, before reading this ;-) If you go for a decent Zeiss Ikon camera, there will be a metal shutter for the red window anyway…

[@MichaWha]

Thanks for this, it's well explained! I'd love to try it but I have a Bronica SQ-A (6x6), the photos will be vertical but other than that, do you have any tips about things that might be different when shooting 35mm film in a 6x6 instead of an "horizontal" 6x7 camera? I'm especially concerned about how the camera handles the different length of the film, I wouldn't want to waste too much film...

[@StefanWorks]

As long as the SQ-A has a method of shooting 220 this process will work just fine as if the film was 220 format. The only issue to watch for with the vertical advance is that the film may be more likely to jam during the initial film advancing. I'd add some one-sided tape across the 35mm starting edge onto the backing paper to make absolutely the two materials stay together during the bending they will encounter on initial take-up.

[@MichaWha]

@@StefanWorks Aah so I'll need a 220 back. So the lentgh of a 220 roll is somewhat similar to that of a 35mm one? Thanks for the tips!

[@StefanWorks]

@@MichaWha Exactly. That is where I got the idea. I had a 35mm 36-exposure roll of film drying next to a 220 format roll, and noticed both were about 150cm. So, I used the 220 paper leader to feed a fresh roll of 35mm into the medium format camera similar to what is seen in the video and it worked great. From there I copied the dimensions of a 220 paper leader onto 120 backing paper, as it's much easier to find. Bingo, that's my process, and if you're stingy with the film leader when you tape it to the paper, you can even get nineteen shots on a roll of 36exp.

[@StefanWorks]

Or with 6x6 probably about 22 shots on a 36exp roll.

[@MichaWha]

@@StefanWorks Awesome, thank you for all the info! I looked at the different films' lentghts and now I understand, as you say 35mm and 220 are almost the same length!

[@TheChristophermssnr]

What scanner do you use?

[@StefanWorks]

Right now an Epson V800, but before that I used an Epson V600 (which is essentially the same with regards to image quality and features, but without the ability to scan large format).

[@memohaddad]

How do you know how much you need to advance, especially if I'm using an older camera, like a Lubitel?

[@StefanWorks]

Hrmm, yeah, that's gonna be tricky with a camera like the Lubitel that has a rear window. You won't be able to look in the window, and would need to keep it closed or covered with black tape in order to avoid ambient light hitting the film (as there is no paper backing). You could shoot a roll of 120 and note the amount for winding require to advance the correct amount throughout the roll, then do the same by memory with 35mm and the red window covered.

[@anotherguycalledsmith]

You could use a black back paper, load it normally like a film and mark with a pen the ”real“ full width of your medium format width on the back paper (in my case, for example 6×9 cm). Then measure it (if you do not know your exact film format) and mark the whole length of your back paper accordingly. Now with your newly loaded marked (!) back paper at the correct starting position, you would observe with the camera back open (!) how the film gets spooled - and count the number of turns of your spooling key as the film advances to its next picture position. You will be surprised to see that the number of turns needed to advance to the next shot, will differ over time (at least I observed that). Take note of how many times you would need to turn the key of your up-taking spool at the beginning and at the end of a 35 mm's film length. Calculate an average, do not bother to think about using your red window at all - and live with the overlapping of these shots that will occur ;-)

[@memohaddad]

Excellent information, thank you. can't believe I asked this question 2 years ago and got a response now. And during this time ive learned so much, from hand rolling, to splicing, sproket photography, developing film lol Come a long way. Thanks for all of this!@@anotherguycalledsmith

[@anotherguycalledsmith]

@@memohaddad You are welcome ;-) Yes, two years later, maybe in another time zone, and in the middle of the night… KZbin is great, especially when you opt for the Premium version to spare you any stupid guys with aggressive ads. There are special interest niches with lots of people willing to share their knowledge. I am coming a long way too, since I am restoring these old _Zeiss Ikon_ and _Ica Dresden_ cameras first. Very often, they have sticky shutters but it is a real pleasure to still use them one hundred years later with modern film ;-)

[@paultaylorphotography9499]

Love the uncropped versions nice work mate I shoot with a Bronica ETRSi you can buy a 35mm film back for it the panos look awesome. New sub for ya mate cheers Paul 📷📷❤️

[@StefanWorks]

Great to hear from you Paul. Thanks for the support!

[@paultaylorphotography9499]

@@StefanWorks welcome mate 📷❤️

[@SirImran]

Be strong as you fight your way to success, the difficulty you face is nothing compared to the joy of success

[@SalamiTommi]

These Aaron Rodgers commercials are getting crazy

[@douglasliebig5625]

I didn't know Aaron Rodgers was a photographer as well. 🤣

[@StefanWorks]

😁 Oh ya, and I've pivoted from Anti-Vax to Pro-SlideFilm. 👍🎞️

[@RobMoses]

Haha wow that's crazy.

[@GaryED44]

Uncropped is much better

[@StefanWorks]

Agree with you Gary 😁. Though I think in this case that's because the composition was made with the uncropped aspect in mind.