STEGOCRAWL® Wrap Crawl Space Vapor Barrier Installation - A Step by Step Guide

[@haa1774]

I need a video on a crawlspace where you crawl on your elbows. Then we’ll see how “simply” it’s done.

[@MrCanuckDon]

With sound so we can hear the swearing.

[@thetruthchannel4634]

I own a small three-man firm. The lowest crawlspace I will quote is 2 full blocks + a cap block high. That’s 20 inches . Once we cover the ground with crawlspace felt (which is rolled out from a 40” roll) then you can roll to your destination. After the floor is rolled on, you can roll or slide. They pay a premium but it’s not that bad.

[@leojf3828]

I can move much easier on my back then turn over. For some reason my shoulder blades can take more of a beating than my elbows.

[@richcombs4805]

​@@thetruthchannel4634 thanks very much....I will look for crawlspace felt never heard of it before

[@georgesmart239]

Great info. However, The "simply place" portions of the video are not simple when you are crawling on your elbows due to a small crawl space.

[@thetruthchannel4634]

I simply opened my crawlspace door and saw a snakeskin. I simply shut the door and I won't be back

[@wingnut72282]

@@thetruthchannel4634 haha I seen one under my house not long ago as well.

[@arnoldrogers-beckley3374]

@@thetruthchannel4634 I just...I literally just did this. Well, after taking a couple pics to share with my lovely wife.

[@thetruthchannel4634]

@@arnoldrogers-beckley3374 oh she’ll love knowing there’s snakes in the crawlspace eating up those mice. Tell her that. It might help. Actually I do crawlspace encapsulations for real. Finished one yesterday where the mice had knawed thru and made 40 holes in the air ducts. Fixed them all. No real charges

[@leojf3828]

I love how their foundation doesn't require the cinder blocks to be cemented together ☺

[@szymonkoronkiewicz2526]

How does the assembly of your foil at the ventilation windows look like? What to put underneath? Rocks? What thick layer of pebbles?

[@StegoIndustries]

Szymon, thank you for your inquiries. As best as possible you should try to minimize any “leaks” in the encapsulation system. If you are encapsulating the walls and ground, the floor joists between the first floor and crawl space do not need to be “windproof”, but any gaps that allow bulk airflow between the crawl and first floor should be minimized with caulk or an expansion foam. If you are in a humid climate zone you should consider blocking your ventilation vents. Using closed cell foam insulation board cut to size and sealed with expansion foam is usually sufficient to block existing vents. Underneath the vapor barrier you have several options depending on your conditions. A granular layer may be helpful to drain liquid water (if present) to a lower point in the crawl where it can be ejected via a sump pump and a strong vapor barrier like ours can be installed over crushed stone. If you do not have liquid water issues you can install the vapor barrier directly on the ground. Wishing you the best of luck with your project!

[@szymonkoronkiewicz2526]

@@StegoIndustries I am at the stage of building the foundation. I can still decide whether the ventilation windows will be or not. Moderate zone. Poland. We do not have mechanical ventilation. There is gravity ventilation. The question is, when the CRAWL SPACE is closed, there must be an air supply from the house? Does this air have to be mechanically pressed in? Does there have to be a dehumidifier? I don't like letting air into the CRAWL SPACE from home. There is wool in the floor. Foundation walls are not insulated. By letting in air from the house I will raise the CRAWL SPACE temperature, but a lot of this temperature will escape through the walls. The design is like this. Foundation walls 60 cm above the ground. On this a 25 cm floor filled with wool. Windproofing under the floor. The walls of the house will stand on this floor. Outside, wind insulation SD 0.3. Inside there is a vapor barrier SD 8 or 10. The foundation walls DO NOT HAVE thermal insulation. We close CRAWL SPACE. Foil on the ground all the way to the wreath. What's next?

[@StegoIndustries]

@@szymonkoronkiewicz2526 we would like to help you more. If you could submit your information here (www.stegoindustries.com/contact-us ) with details about your project, we will get you in touch with a Stego Rep that can help answer your specific project questions. Thank you!

[@szymonkoronkiewicz2526]

If we apply your solution. Should the floor underneath be windproof? It is a film that is used on the walls and roof.

[@StegoIndustries]

See previous post and reply.

[@marwin4038]

I don’t understand how leaving 3” block exposed will allow the temperature to be controlled especially in very cold months?

[@richcombs4805]

The 3" exposed top of the wall, leaves the sill plate exposed intentionally. Note the encapsulation is not being used at all to provide warmth as you indicated...it is being used to seal off moisture/humidity and reduction of resulting mold on any organic material (ie dirt) other than the above floor joists. The other reason for the exposure is for termite/ant inspection. In the winter, you actually want the crawl space cold, to prevent condensation forming on the sill plate and rim board and in this scenario you'd insulate under the floor between the joists with tight fitting Polyisocyanurate foam board sealed into place, against the under side of the above floor. Otherwise, you'll be heating the basement, not insulating under the floor and you should have the same foam board cut-to-fit between the joists, pressed up against the rim board, and sealed with expanding closed cell foam (ie Great Stuff, at the box store). The main source of moisture is down along the walls and over the flooring. For a basement with partial crawl space, you'd be encapsulating the dirt but not the useable floor space.

[@osco4311]

Another reason to leave the gap to to ensure that any moisture thtanwicks up the underside of the material isn't absorbed by the sill plate. Keeping a gap reduces rot.

[@bobbrock4221]

My crawlspace is a damn mess. I don't even know where to start. I finally solved my flooding problem with a french drain, but I am left with a mess of mud. I am thinking of maybe trying gravel?

[@heady_meltz7377]

What i would do is dry out the crawl space of course with either fans or a dehumidifier after its dry I'd make sure the crawl space is somewhat level. Than roll out vapor barrier.

[@bobbrock4221]

I have heard to avoid gravel. It will need a good cleaning too. That mud has made a mess of everything. It is level enough I would say, maybe a couple high spots. How do you go about taping the barrier with dirt everywhere? I figure that I would have trouble getting the tape to stick.

[@bobbrock4221]

And the water still gets in. It just gets pumped out immediately. We have a very high water table. I would hope that a vapor barrier could hold all of that water back. I have my doubts though. I could be wrong.

[@heady_meltz7377]

I would give the foundation a quick wipe down to help the tape stick an I would also use vapor barrier glue to make sure it sticks. An if the vapor barrier is installed correctly you shouldn't have any problems with moisture getting through. Just got to make sure all the seams are all taped an should be good.

[@bobbrock4221]

Thank you for all of the input. I am still confused about how to lay the barrier with a french drain being there. Would I just lay the barrier on each side of the french drain?

[@cohco9320]

Can you post a video on how everything look when finished?

[@StegoIndustries]

Hi there! You can see some images of a finished crawl space on our website here: www.stegoindustries.com/products/stego-crawl-wrap. Scroll through the product images for close-up details, installation, and completed installation shots.

[@adamromary9620]

Could you tell me the thickness of barrier used in this video?

[@StegoIndustries]

Hi Adam, we used the StegoCrawl Wrap 15-Mil Vapor Barrier in this video. You can explore all our offerings here: shop.stegoindustries.com/stegocrawl/

[@billmitchell5805]

Good Day, did you install all that stone prior to beginning the encapsulation liner? Thanks

[@StegoIndustries]

Bill, thanks for your question. We put down stone for the purpose of the installation video. In general, what is under the liner (i.e. stone, dirt, or other) will vary depending on project conditions and needs. Thanks!

[@billmitchell5805]

@@StegoIndustries Thanks, I've also seen some companies put another soft liner on the ground prior to the plastic liner? What does that do and is it really needed or just special cases. I wasn't planning on that additional material but will have 2 sump pumps and piping around the perimeter.

[@StegoIndustries]

Thanks, @@billmitchell5805. The soft liner beneath the vapor barrier you’ve seen is probably a geotextile fabric of some sort. The intention is to provide some extra protection for the vapor barrier, particularly on more unforgiving, rocky subbases. Although it can provide extra utility, in most cases, if using a high-performance vapor barrier with good strength characteristics, a protective layer of geotextile fabric probably isn’t needed in our opinion. We recommend looking for vapor retarders or barriers that meet ASTM E1745, a performance standard that includes fairly robust strength (e.g. puncture and tensile) requirements. You may have also seen a dimpled drainage mat beneath the vapor barrier. That is more intended as a means to help move any potential liquid water infiltration under the vapor barrier to the desired location (e.g. perimeter drain/sump pump). We hope this helps.

[@royprincevideos]

I didn't see the use of a sump pump. The vapor barrier isn't going to block it out. If water gets in it'll be stuck between it & the walls & ground. Will it just sink into the ground & evaporate or is it gonna have splashy sounds every time it gets crawled on?

[@StegoIndustries]

Roy, great question. Liquid water and water vapor need to be considered separately. First, let’s answer your direct question about the sump pump. If liquid water is present in your crawl space you should definitely grade the crawl space towards a low area where the liquid water can gather in a sump pit and be ejected with a sump pump. To assist, a granular base on top of the compacted dirt will help serve as a capillary break and allow liquid water to more easily flow to the low point you’ve established. On the other hand, relative humidity is initially present in your crawl space in the form of vapor, which is a gas. A vapor barrier with a low enough permeance rating will prevent a significant amount of water vapor from passing from one side of the membrane to the other. As you’ve correctly identified, the vapor/humidity driving out of the ground tries to reach equilibrium with the humidity of the crawl space. As nature seeks balance it forces the vapor to the bottom side of the vapor barrier where it condenses on the plastic through the process of phase change (gas becoming liquid, just like you see on a cold glass of ice water in the summer). Once in liquid form, gravity takes over and those beads of moisture can collect and follow the grade you’ve established to your sump pit or, they will cycle relatively harmlessly back into the soil. Nature will continue this cycle of trying to reach equilibrium. If you wanted to reduce the amount of moisture building up on the bottom side of the vapor barrier, you could consider a radon fan that draws from underneath the vapor barrier. Just remember to treat bulk water and water vapor with two different solutions as they are two different-sized sets of molecules. If you have more questions, reach out to us here: www.stegoindustries.com/contact-us. We have local reps ready to assist.

[@1208bronco]

how much does encapsulation cost for a crawl space ?

[@StegoIndustries]

Hi Rob, thank you for your interest. In order to assist you more with your crawl space project, we would like to connect you with your local Stego Representative. Please email us at [e-mail] or call us at 877-464-7834. You can also submit an inquiry via online here: www.stegoindustries.com/contact-us

[@adamtettran7471]

just say how much for square foot simply is that

[@BlueOriginAire]

adam tettran , What if you aren’t factoring in what’s included and NOT included first ??? How would any price per square foot, mean anything to solving the moisture issue down there ??? This video doesn’t address those other important parts of this encapsulation project at all.

[@shaggydale6214]

@@adamtettran7471 there is different thicknesses and they cant really say what a contractor charges they just provide back up that the product works and how it should look and how it helps the home including dry rot sickness and health issues and energy efficiency 😄

[@orcanmehmet]

@@adamtettran7471 probably just material cost less than €1000 per 1000 sqft, including vapor barrier sheets + crushed stones

[@szymonkoronkiewicz2526]

There are minimal leaks at the corners in your video. Are they a problem? Do you need to seal them with something?

[@StegoIndustries]

See previous post and reply.

[@citstuff]

I have some old, clear, thin plastic sheeting for the vapor barrier that goes under a wooden pony wall. Will the tape adhere to both your product and my old vapor barrier?

[@StegoIndustries]

Lee, thank you for your question. StegoCrawl Tape is engineered with an advanced adhesive to provide very good initial and long-term bond to our StegoCrawl Wrap vapor barrier and retarder products, as well as ideal for sealing around pipe and utility penetrations (often made of plastic). Thus, with a properly prepared (i.e. clean, dry) surface of the old plastic sheeting, we would not anticipate any issues with sticking StegoCrawl Tape to both surfaces. We hope that helps.

[@richcombs4805]

Avoid using "old thin plastic sheeting". The main thing you want, from this company or one like it, is virgin material. Otherwise, cheaper sheeting is typically blends of recycled material and it will degrade fast, become brittle, and tear. Their material is 15mils thick...they sent me a sample and it is EXTREMELY thick....I could barely push a pen tip through it...and that was with significant effort. After doing all that work, you don't want to find it easily shredding in the future.

[@reinaldoromero25]

If previous owner installed a french drain and poured concrete over it. Is encapsulation still a good idea . There seems to be holes also for water to come in n drain

[@Ih8liarsandusers]

It's a studio mockup genius

[@JamesZimm]

In cases where the water table is high, or, simply, where the area's dirt is infrequently damp in spots but with no standing water, is it okay to put the liner in against the foundation? Not terribly experienced, so I'm wondering if moisture will be pushed up against the foundation, and if that would hurt it. Please answer back.

[@richcombs4805]

It is expected, infact one competitor plans a perimeter drain under the floor wrap....but, what's going on outside is the main concern. If you do not have gutters, get some. If you do not have a 2% grade 10-20 feet away from your foundation, try to achieve that. Also, excavating around your foundation and ensure proper drain tile slope and appropriate gravel above that tile (a column of gravel with screen on both sides) or some other method to always allow free flowing drainage to the tile is the proper solution. Treating the interior is a bootstraps method that only postpones the real problem. Exterior ground water against your footing/wall is not ok, especially in freezing areas. Water and ice degrade the mortar between cinderblock as well as permeates poured foundations.

[@simonsteele3312]

@@richcombs4805 Agreed. Take care of the water outside. then take care of the inside

[@nicolesmith4025]

If I am encapsulating I need to seal the vents and install sump pump etc. I decided on vapor barrier so I dont have to install sump pump but will leave vents open, do you have a vent cover or screen suggestion for the vents?

[@StegoIndustries]

Hi Nicole, thank you for reaching out. You’ll likely find a lot of vent cover and screen options at any home supply center. If you are looking for a more specialized vent option, you might check out www.smartvent.com. I hope that helps. Thanks!

[@jonq8714]

Can you install gravel over the top of the barrier? I will need to be able to walk on it.

[@StegoIndustries]

Hi Jon! Sorry for the late reply. StegoCrawl 15 mil is durable enough to have gravel installed over top of it. Having said that, we recommend an aggregate no greater than ¾” crushed stone. We have additional tips for preparing your crawl space for encapsulation here: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/10-helpful-tips-to-help-you-prepare-for-a-crawl-space-encapsulation-project

[@dostagirl9551]

My crawlspace has a dirt floor. Do I need to like with gravel first? Or is that just how the model crawlspace just happened to be constructed?

[@StegoIndustries]

Thank you for your questions, Sandy! The crawl space floor can be either gravel or dirt. StegoCrawl is very durable, but be sure to clear the crawl space floor of any debris or large jagged rock. For more tips, check out our article about preparing your crawl space for encapsulation: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/10-helpful-tips-to-help-you-prepare-for-a-crawl-space-encapsulation-project

[@Pigman7120]

My crawl space has peagravel in it want to use it for storage also will this barrier be thick enough. Would I be able to walk on it with the gravel underneath without poking holes in the barrier?

[@StegoIndustries]

Hi @Pigman7120. Bryce Skeeters here from Stego Industries. Pea gravel is like tiny little pillows for our plastic. Both our 10 mil and 15 mil are tested per the requirements of ASTM E1745 and are extremely strong to puncture resistance and tearing. This standard governs products used on commercial construction sites to be placed on top of gravel directly beneath a newly placed concrete slab. In other words, even though our crawl space material won’t be driven on by an 18,000 lb laser screed over top of #57 gravel, we still hold it to those lofty expectations. I have our 15 mil in my house, but I upgraded to 15 mil because the permeance is even better than the 10 mil. If you need more information or product info, free to reach out to us at [e-mail] or visit our blog at www.stegoindustries.com/blog. Best wishes!

[@robertpait8917]

What about foundation vents

[@StegoIndustries]

Thanks for your question, Robert. In most situations, it makes sense to seal off your vents, encapsulate the crawl space, and condition or dehumidify the air above your liner. You can read more about the benefits of eliminating vents here: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/the-benefits-to-eliminating-your-crawl-space-vents. To close off the vents, a lot of contractors block them with closed cell foam board and seal the gap with an expansive foam spray for a snug fit.

[@10bendc]

Does my srawl space floor need to be gravel or can it be dirt

[@StegoIndustries]

Cody, thanks for your question! The crawl space floor can be either gravel or dirt. StegoCrawl is very durable, but be sure to clear the crawl space floor of any debris or large jagged rock. For more tips, check out our article about preparing your crawl space for encapsulation: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/10-helpful-tips-to-help-you-prepare-for-a-crawl-space-encapsulation-project.

[@carloszelanda]

No, you DO NOT need to put any gravel there, I'm doing in my own house and I'm not using any gravel, polythene on the ground and done. I'm an architect. Cheers

[@HappyMuffin]

Your "detail" work is messy and shoddy.