Step by step milling in the Myford ML7 for beginners - updated and revised!

A step by step video about using your #myford #ml7 as a #milling machine intended for beginners to #modelengineering and #machining.
Please consider buying me a cup of coffee if you enjoy my content, it would mean the world to me: ko-fi.com/imperialworkbench
00:00 Intro
00:44 Removing the compound slide
01:01 Choosing a vertical slide
02:44 Fixturing to a vertical slide
04:14 TIP! - Aligning the vertical slide to lathe - TIP!
05:10 Holding the milling cutter
07:39 Myford collet details
08:21 Lathe speed
10:26 Holding work in the machine vise on the vertical slide
12:18 Locking down the lathe dials
13:01 TIP! - Lead screw handwheel - TIP!
13:43 Conventional milling + downward forces only!
15:36 Milling, finally!
17:11 Book recommendation and outro

[@RDGTOOLSLTD]

Great video, I'm not sure if you know but we are RDG TOOLS and for the past 12 years now we have owned Myford Lathes trademark and have a fully functional workshop where we still build new lathes. We are based in Mytholmroyd West Yorkshire both shops are in the same place.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Yes, I do - I actually buy a good deal of stuff from you - glad to know it - I may be in the market for a new Super7 in the mid term :)

[@RDGTOOLSLTD]

@@williamsworkshopuk That's good to know. I'm pretty sure we can sort out what you need when the time comes. Keep up the good work

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Very informative. Thank you. I am definitely going to have a go on my Myford Super 7.

[@MrFactotum]

Myfords are amazingly versatile, only downside is that when set for milling you can't "frustratingly" re-visit turning mode with out reverting all the machine back to turning mode, nicely explained for any beginners in the wonderful hobby. regards mr f

[@peterward5723]

Thanks for the ML7 milling info. Very clear and easy to understand.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Glad it was helpful!

[@friendlypiranha774]

Invaluable advice. Thanks a million.

[@timallen6025]

Thank you . Very patient , clear , thoroughly video’d through

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I'm glad it might be helpful for you, let me know how it goes!

[@nifty1940]

So, that's what can be done with my ML7. Had it under wraps for 20 yrs and used it sparingly. Your vids are reigniting my interest though, thanks.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I'm really glad to hear that! The ML7 is certainly a gem. I bought myself a vintage milling machine in the meantime but wouldn't be without the Myford.

[@nevillecartwright7292]

Great video and very informative - thank you! Can't wait to apply these with my ML7. Greetings from South Africa!

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Thanks for the kind words, I hope it helps!

[@WalterNoest]

Very clear video! Thank you for sharing your experience!

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Glad it was helpful, sorry about the volume :)

[@greatdane3343]

Very good info. Thanks for sharing.

[@davehuxley6689]

Thank you William as a complete beginner the video was a great help and has given me confidence to give it a try.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

How did it go, Dave?

[@davehuxley6689]

Thank you so much for the video,,I was very pleased with the first attempt, I have the Myford vertical slide with the multi axis .I haven't the vice as you demonstrated or the C work holders,so had to make some out of flat bar just to hold a small aluminium block for trial purposes' I only had a 6mm 4 flute which was with the lathe when I bought it,which partly blocked the flutes,I have since learnt that a two flute is better with ally. I am going to look for a two inch vice for the vertical slide, holding clamps and collett chuck and end mills then I can get going on a simple steam engine. Thanks again I will be using this video in the garage when I have all the bits and pieces I need being a pre war baby I easily forget. Dave

[@tobypage2252]

Very clearly explained and informative. Thanks!

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Very pleased you found it useful

[@SuperGliderman]

Just bought a Myford ml7r and myford vice and myford milling attachment totally newbe to this Hobby so this video was a godsend to me

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I’m so pleased to hear!

[@rickoshae1687]

I greatly appreciate this, thank you. It's helped me understand the old lathe I just bought.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Great to hear! I'm afraid I do most of my milling on the Centec at the moment which is great fun and a worthwhile investment.

[@rickoshae1687]

@@williamsworkshopuk I got a ml7 and every accessories for $500 aud, im definitely going to make due with what I have for now. What would you suggest is a good cheap milling machine. The ml7 seems good for straight cuts like keyways.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

@@rickoshae1687 gosh AU$500 is a fantastic price for an ML7 and all the bits! Regarding milling machines - I couldn’t decide between a Tom Senior, and a centec : it came down to whatever was available first. In reality, it might have been a smarter choice to get in modern machine. But if you go down that route, it’s probably smarter to pay someone else to do the machineing for you.

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello WW, A well presented video on milling on the Myford... I feel sure this would become one of your most viewed videos' Cheers. Paul,,

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Many thanks, I hope so - my previous video on the topic did quite well but it was shot rather badly and I'd missed some important points. Hopefully this fills those gaps.

[@steved8038]

Thank you that was explained very well,and the volume was fine.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Glad it was helpful! Some of it is common sense but I had alot of false starts before I had success so I hope this saves someone else the pain...

[@millomweb]

Volume was whisper quiet. Had I been eating I wouldn't have heard any of it.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Hello William As promised I have had a go at milling on my Myford Super 7 using a rigid milling slide. Wow, the results were incredible. No chatter on either aluminium or steel. I used two flute HSS end mills and was blown away with the results. First with 6mm and then 12mm. Astonishing result. 25 thou depth of cut in aluminium and 10 thou in steel gave a mirror finish on both. I have a small Seig SX1 milling machine. No way could I do this on that mill. It’s great for accurate drilling and micro milling, but no more. Definitely going to continue experimenting, especially with how to accurately measure the movement of the milling slide in the vertical axis, Once again thank you for your inspirational and informative guide. One very happy viewer here. 👏👏😀

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Sorry I didn't get back to you on this one - I'm very pleased to hear you got good results. With regard to vertical movement, are you not using the micrometer dials on the vertical axis?

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

@@williamsworkshopuk Oh, no need to apologise. I am so grateful to you for your videos. Yes, I am currently relying on the micrometer dials, but hope to add some form of dial indicator to increase my accuracy.

[@Rich10000]

Good video and nice workshop

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@RatsAndFunTV]

Thank you for all this.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

My pleasure, it was a last hurrah before selling the lathe milling equipment and getting the Centec Miller :)

[@Bristol-bespoke-furnitureCoUk]

Thanks for this one !

[@williamsworkshopuk]

My pleasure!

[@steveallen8987]

Nice video. Just a couple of things. I was always taught to start motor with belt disengaged. When aligning a vertical slide use your push back method but always place a parallel between the back of the slide and the front edge of the carriage. This is then removed for working. This provides a small gap. With them touching any chips getting between could cause problems. Also I tend to leave a setup over several days. If you set this up at night and left the surfaces touching in the heat of the day the expansion of metal could cause problems. There is way too much slack in the vertical slide. You need to unlock the handle locknut, tighten down the dial until slack is minimal then tighten up the handle. When I inherited my ML7 it had the same issue in all slides. 1 final thing you mentioned but didn’t show lamping of the carriage or the slides. Great video am now going to start perusing your other dies. Steve

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Hi Steve thank you so much for the message - after this video I tightened down the vertical slide screw nut - I think it became half unscrewed while I was doing something else and I hadn't noticed. Great idea about adding some gaps with a parallel too!

[@millomweb]

@@williamsworkshopuk However, butting the back of the vertical slide with the side of the cross slide will add rigidity!

[@millomweb]

The belt lever is just a belt tensioner, and is not designed to be used as a clutch. I think the S7 has a clutch and does not use slack belts as the clutch ! Normal operation of belt driven machines is to start the motors with the belts tensioned.

[@sundance444]

Great job thanks very much

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I’m glad you found it helpful

[@perryowens1]

I use an ER 32 collet chuck on a Myford backplate as a cheaper option than trying to find Myford collets. A 2in Stevenson collet block will just fit in the vice and is handy for milling flats and slots in round bar

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Nice! They are def. cheaper than myford collets but I'm not interested in buying chinese-made mass produced parts really, and I'd rather spend money on vintage equipment than buy new european stuff

[@pauln1557]

Hi William, a great video for beginners to milling, you cover a lot of good points. Is that a Stuart steam cylinder in your video? I learnt to mill with a set up just like you have on my ML7, it works, but with light cuts only and a very restricted working envelope. Then I was very fortunate to come across an immaculate Myford VMB milling machine, what a quantum step in usability, but at a significant cost! A cheaper and fun way to increase your milling capacity is to get an old shaper machine. I got a tidy Boxford 8 inch shaper for 1/8 of the cost of my VMB mill. The tooling (HSS) is way cheaper and easy to sharpen compared to milling cutters. A shaper really complements a lathe and it's a fascinating machine to learn to use!! Regards Paul in NZ

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Hi Paul, it is a Stuart 10v cylinder in the video. Unfortunately I made some mistakes at the very last part of the 10v build (the majority of it is in a playlist on the channel) so it's sitting fairly forlorn on my shelf at the moment :) I agree re: dedicated machine - got myself a Centec 2b shortly after this video was made and haven't really looked back, but it's wonderful to see what can be achieved on just the ML7.

[@pauln1557]

@@williamsworkshopuk Hi William, Those Centec 2b machines look superb, very nice! I wonder if any ever made it to NZ? You must get your 10V finished after putting in all that work. I made one a couple of years ago, it runs great on comp air, I really must pull finger and build my steam boiler kit for it. There is an elderly gent, Harold Hall, who has a superb model eng web site. He has a detailed guide to building the 10V, with excellent pictures of set ups and fixtures. His guide is far better than the 'official' book that I bought from Hemingway kits. Harold is well worth checking out if you haven't already done so. I totally agree that it's great to see what can be done on just the ML7, I made two gears on mine last year. Regards Paul

[@geoffreyfarmiloe1692]

Please could you provide a shopping list of parts needed, including serial numbers. Eg, Myford collet closure ring serial number 12345... Your videos are first class and have been very helpful to me. Thank you.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I'm so sorry but I'm afraid I don't know the serial numbers of the parts - the collets are called 'Myford Finger Collets' specifically, and the closure ring is just that. If you look on eBay there's someone (homeandworkshopmachinery I think) who has all the collect components. 'Myford Vertical Slide' MA68/1 and a mini machine vise (mine had no markings) should round you out.

[@mikocap21]

Where did you get those attachments? When I look on eBay there is an infinite amount of vendors that sell this attachment from India. Did you do the same or is yours a genuine British made?

[@keganboddy8598]

Excellent tutorial! I'm a noob! Thank you. What size is your motor on the ML7? I'm looking to replace mine. It's not an original and my lathe is currently in peaces as I'm rebuilding it. Ive heard a common complaint that the ML7 is under powered. Thanks again!

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I’m probably not the best person to ask really, mine as a Crompton brushed motor on it but I know many people these days fit brushless or 3 phase with a VFD

[@-1-2-1-]

Have you considered using a quick release DRO on your ML7 by Linn tools?

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Sorry for the delay in reply, I haven't - what is it?

[@boodevey]

Nice video Can you tell me where you got your small parallels from. Cheers

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I think they were just cheap eBay jobs - 5/32” x 4”?

[@Mr986Willis]

I was under the impression you have to use special collets with a thread at the end to prevent the cutter from pulling out of the collet and cutting deeper and deeper into the work piece so do Myford sell such collets for their lathes or is it just not a big problem? Fingers crossed you see comments on old posts. 😊

[@williamsworkshopuk]

It is true that there is a pulling force with milling cutters, you don't need a screwed collet end - I use those in my auto-lock chuck which you could potentially fit into the spindle of the ML7. The main thing here is to avoid using the 3-jaw!

[@georgespeake5089]

Very nice and helpful. Just thinking about milling on my lathe rather than purchasing a mill.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I ended up buying a mill just so I can turn while milling , but realistically no need!

[@Festivejelly]

Jack of all trades it seems. Side note please consider using an external mic, I did have a bit of trouble hearing you at points.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Apologies, the levels are a bit off on this one - future/past videos have much better audio

[@jimmyhuffman6802]

That is a Hellava looking lathe.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Thanks Jimmy - I keep thinking I should upgrade to a larger one, but I've grown fond of it (and spent alot of money on attachments!)

[@dustyboyer5623]

I have a unimat lathe mill combo with the power thread cutting attachment on it, is anyone making a video on how to use this little machine for the setup and use for the beginner. If it's like your video it would be perfect for me.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I actually had an emco that I replaced with the ML7 (almost like for like, cost-wise!) - what did you want to know?

[@juhavuorinen3945]

Spindle direction axis is allways Z-axis

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Thank you for that, I keep getting them mixed up!

[@EvoKeremidarov]

thanks for the video. if I may I like to point few thing out that I slightly disagree with or maybe you can improve. The back lash on your vertical slide can easily be fixed by tightening the nut by the handle while turning the handle in the opposite direction. the statement that you need to run the lathe at full speed at all times is wrong. the speed is dependent on the size (diameter) of endmill used as well as the number of flutes compared to the material you are working on. Four flute endmill on aluminium is almost a never good idea as the flutes pack in too quick. On your milling demonstration you seem to be running at about 300 rpm not full speed. a very efficient method of squaring up the face of the vise is to use a dial indicator on the bottom of the vise and on the fixed jaw. this way you are 100% sure that the work is gonna be square to the two axis of the lathe anything else is just a gamble and presumption. Thank you for making this video I hope my comment will not be seen as a criticism of your work and effort but rather as a simple exchange of ideas.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Thank you for taking the time to comment. All points taken onboard and very well thought out - thank you!

[@millomweb]

12:30 Saddle is Z axis, the other 2 axes are X & Y.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Thanks for the info, I always seem to get my axis mixed up when it involves more than two!

[@millomweb]

@@williamsworkshopuk They claim the Z is the spindle axis - leaving X and & Y for lateral positioning relative to the cutter. Adds to the confusion if you have a horiz and a vert spindle on the mill ! Usually Z is vertical movement.

[@mechaform]

To the best of my knowledge (from CNC programming, et al), the Z axis is movement along the bed, and the X axis is for the cross-slide. Y axis would be the vertical milling attachment. The “A” axis is for the spindle rotation. Good content, though. Subscribed.

[@davidforbes6250]

I would have had more oil in the right hand res for the headstock.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Bloody total loss oiling systems, eh? :) I can never seem to get the drip tempo correct and I always forget to turn them off!

[@davidforbes6250]

@@williamsworkshopuk They are joyful!

[@rainersiegel2741]

Super Drehmaschine bin auch am überlegen ob ich mir so eine mir eine kaufe

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Insgesamt denke ich, dass es für Ihr Geld bessere Drehmaschinen gibt, aber eine Myford ist eine gute Wahl, wenn Sie sich dafür entscheiden.

[@quickstart-M51]

It seems like you are breaking the rule of no upward force on the work in the milling footage. Shouldn’t the cutter be started at the back and bottom of the work if the spindle is turning conventionally?

[@williamsworkshopuk]

If it's at the bottom, the cutting force would be upwards, right?

[@quickstart-M51]

@@williamsworkshopuk If the actual teeth of the cutter are applying the force then at the bottom it seems they should be pulling the work down and toward the operator.

[@goober650NX]

100% correct in your observation.👌

[@haroldpearson6025]

Do not overtighten the verticle slide holding down bolts as it makes the cross slide stiff.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I don't use the milling attachment on the ML7 having bought a milling machine, but good to know!

[@haroldpearson6025]

@@williamsworkshopuk I've never owned a milling machine but do have an Eliot 10m shaper and a heavy duty vertical slide on my Colchester Chipmaster lathe.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

@@haroldpearson6025 I have thought alot about getting a 10M shaper!

[@haroldpearson6025]

​@@williamsworkshopuk They are a great machine. Not a hobbyists machine but designed for the small machine shop or tool room. Very accurate and should not be considered as a "roughing out machine" I have used my 10M in the construction of 5 locomotives including 2 7.25g narrow gauge locos. All the flat surface machining was carried out on the shaper. It's said shapers are slow compared to a milling machine. However this is not true when comparing a decent shaper like the 10M to a bench top hobby milling machine. The 10M will take a 2mm cut on mild steel and 3mm on cast iron. The big advantage is in cutter running costs as you can use many of your lathe tools on the shaper.

[@millomweb]

5:25 So who is the fan of equipotential bonding ? #motor_bearing

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I have no idea what that means! Should I be worried?

[@millomweb]

@@williamsworkshopuk Short bits of earthing cable on the lathe motor - totally pointless!

[@millomweb]

The sound in this video is very quiet.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Sorry, I don't have the footage to re-shoot, you'll have to turn it up :(

[@millomweb]

@@williamsworkshopuk You can download the video from KZbin and run it through the editor again :) I recently downloaded one of my own videos to upload to another of my channels.

[@chisdalton9652]

I once spent 9 months on a myford ML 7 making model chieftain tanks for the royal ordnance company that I was apprenticed to. And I'm truly sorry to all those out there that love these machine's, but it was a bloody awful machine...... (No doubt this will get loads of negative comments but in my defence I was on it at least 25 hour a week on it not a few hours on a weekend}

[@williamsworkshopuk]

In retrospect I should have got myself a bigger lathe, but at the time the ML7 seemed gigantic. If I were to do it again I'd get a bigger Colchester/etc. but here we are!

[@Jacob-64]

Sorry ,looks a good video but the audio is terrible

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Hi mate, apparently just the intro?

[@millomweb]

@@williamsworkshopuk Nope, all the way through :(

[@williamsworkshopuk]

@@millomweb really sorry mate, I can re record as I sold the slides to buy a milling machine

[@jimmyhuffman6802]

Ok the whole f$@kin video is a silent movie.

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Sorry matey, volume up on this one

[@mikebarton3218]

Can't hear you!

[@williamsworkshopuk]

Hi Mike- what do you mean, please? Happy to edit the video if there are problems!

[@MarkATrombley]

@@williamsworkshopuk The volume of the opening music is vastly different than your speaking. At my usual volume setting the music was loud, but to hear you speak I had to crank the volume way up.

[@gs425]

@@MarkATrombley Yes it was a bit quiet at times

[@millomweb]

@@williamsworkshopuk Go back into your editor and 'normalise' the sound - that will fix it. Better though to get your audio levels set correctly in the first place. Normalising (or 2 pass) goes through the video looking for the loudest noise and sets that at max volume with all the quieter bits proportioned to suit. If you find you have a quiet clip, you can just normalise the clip. #gain/volume settings

[@dona4316]

You made a right mess of that drilling table. Don't get a milling machine, you'll wreck it

[@williamsworkshopuk]

I’m not going to delete this because you’re not the first person to comment it - I bought the drilling machine exactly like you see.

[@millomweb]

@@williamsworkshopuk That's pretty much the reply I expected. Maybe you could name and shame the person you got it from :)