Steps to Avoid Spun Rod Bearings K20a B20vtec K24 H22 D16

[@sagittnet2158]

Never had a rod spun on all my frankeinstein engines (H23vtec, G23vtec) before. I've experienced 2 engine blew up but never a rod bearing spin and hoping l dont have too. But you send out a good point and good information, specially for thosw slots on forged rods, thank you very much.

[@SRDmotorsports]

thanks man… same here… and the potential good power is always welcomed 😎 as we are always hungry 😂

[@ricardodavis9972]

@@SRDmotorsports is it good to go over size bearing when spun a rod bearing

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@ricardodavis9972 depends on the damage on the journals but a lot of times the nitriding or heat treatment is all but 0.040” deep so the machineshop will know better actually

[@mikewilliams9819]

Awesome explanations and details. Thanks for taking the time to break it down.

[@SRDmotorsports]

You’re welcome brother! tbh it was just as revealing to me years back when I slowly pieced it together the cause n effect and possible excess windage (hides hp) so I figured I’d share the same excitement I got

[@Mike-ry4ti]

On the subject of pumps, I have seem people shimming the OEM B series pumps to get more pressure, but what is better, doing this or simply buying an ACL?

[@SRDmotorsports]

they’re shimming the pressure relief valve so they’re increasing at what pressure the relief opens not what it flows = I never did that cuz it’s like running a super thick wastegate spring but it turbo can only boost 12psi Wats the stiff spring for?

[@Clerique]

This video is so appropriate; I just took apart a B20 bottom with a spun bearing. Machine shop said all journals (Rod and main) must be cut. I am thinking about getting a replacement B18C Type R crankshaft and rods.

[@Clerique]

I have the option of B18CR crank and Manley rods or LS crank and Manley rods for same price. What would you suggest?

[@SRDmotorsports]

Oh sorry about that b20 double check the oil pump u can check the earlier video on it… And now b18c crank and rods? Maaan you doing my preferred configuration!! That gonna be a beast!!

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@Clerique b18c crank and Manley rods brother!!!

[@Clerique]

@@SRDmotorsports ITR crank it is!

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@Clerique I mean to show you it’s a choice I will take? I actually have a 2000 ITR crank in possession for the b20vtec need when I do it :) crank already waiting 😂🤣

[@Donyce19]

Im about to build a stroked H22 using a F23 crankshaft. Because of the extra stroke the pistons get in the way of the oil squirters. Would it be bad to delete the squirters when using OEM pistons? Plan on using Type S Nippon pistons and E85 fuel

[@SRDmotorsports]

I guess not in that case

[@Donyce19]

@@SRDmotorsports man your quick! I'm guessing it's because of the E85? Thanks and appreciate the insight

[@SRDmotorsports]

yeah the added comp is still safe on e85 for sure

[@Alpha-cr5cb]

Good question is what type of Valves lash are y'all using for new build Vitara pistons Z6 Rocker arms and y8

[@SRDmotorsports]

stock valves are fine

[@Digitaltiger123]

What about drilling holes on the rod bearings and keep the p30 bearings which are better for vtec builds?

[@SRDmotorsports]

they’re not better just cuz it’s from a vtec base engine ACL b20 rod bearings is as good as ACL b16 and same with Daido But yeah free to mod to make the incorrect bearing work for the application

[@Digitaltiger123]

@@SRDmotorsports I agree,I was talking about oem vs oem ones

[@SRDmotorsports]

Yup

[@sonotover]

If I have a slight bottom end rattle, almost like detonation sound under load, and a low oil pressure flicker and increased bottom end noise, is this likely due to main bearings or would it be smart to replace the rod bearings also?

[@SRDmotorsports]

Yeah safer to do both

[@LoveMore333]

Finally I found your channel.. more videos, stay blessed.

[@SRDmotorsports]

Oh brother thank you!!! And bless you even greater :)

[@levigne25]

I'm rebuilding a daily driver engine it's the Toyota 4runner 5vZ -fe engine I installed king main bearings standard can I install a different brand for con rod bearings since king rod bearings for this engine is currently unavailable ?

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@levigne25 yeah as long as u get to shoot for the ideal clearance that’s good

[@levigne25]

@@SRDmotorsportsyup alright thanks

[@SRDmotorsports]

yes sir! Have fun with the project man 😎

[@TheWuzyy]

I cant find after market rod bearings with those holes. Are those only original honda?

[@SRDmotorsports]

Yeah B20 rod bearings has holes the OEM ones all of it

[@robertoudokrapf453]

OLÁ SRD 13/08/24 Pelo que vi neste vídeo, na bronzina usada houve deformação na bronzina de biela por falta de resistência da chapa de aço em relação à sua espessura e talvez com aperto excessivo nos parafusos. O furo de passagem de óleo para injeção na lateral do cilindro foi usinado após a finalização da peça contribuindo para uma 2ª deformação. A diferença de usinagem entre biela antiga e a nova identifica haver diferença no sistema de lubrificação do motor e provavelmente no perfil da bronzina. Roberto Udo Krapf

[@SRDmotorsports]

couldn’t translate this and get it properly

[@dawsonmacie6984]

Do you think at the dealership when rebuilding motors they just use plastiguage or you think they have dial bore gauge, micrometer etc..? I want to build my motor and not spend so much extra on measuring tools. Besides dial bore guage and micrometer what else should a amateur engine builder have? Whats the tool that sits on top of the block and checks if the piston comes out of the bore?

[@SRDmotorsports]

most likely dealership has the tools but also back then they had access to “all” the color coded bearings to match the block and crank etc etc whereas now the “std” we get is technically the “green” on the coded bearings hence plastiguage helps atleast to double check That took on top is I believe “deck height” measuring stand or deck bridge etc

[@eugeniahobbs41]

Good videos, not full of personal revelations, just engineering.

[@SRDmotorsports]

Thanks brother

[@jamesnewton8164]

I want to do my h22a again im curious on what wpc treating will help me most? Id love to have you guys port my head and even assemble my frm sleeved block. Im running all motor but eventually nitrous

[@SRDmotorsports]

Wpc I believe ur rods and crank could benefit from by strength improvement and also friction resistance, as I see it done mostly on gears etc but on engine internals not many care to show their secret 😂

[@Shortshifter04]

Interesting. All the non vtec rods I've ever seen are not slotted that's for sure... Do you think shot peening LS rods would then give them "equal strength" to a slotted rod? I understand the non slots still "restrict" flow but I'd think the cooling effect it provides is what makes them stronger/more reliable

[@SRDmotorsports]

The slot is to cool the piston the non vtec ones don’t have it because they have the rod bearing hole as I showed on the video that’s their “oil jet” Shot peening is a good way to reinforce or restore the rods strength sadly nowadays less and less machineshops are equipped to do this but a few that does, we def need to share support to them so it will continue further

[@irunnit9098]

What if you just run .002” on all the mains and rods ?

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@irunnit9098 say bye bye to ur oil pressure (prolly why we see now everyone blaming the oil pump)

[@SRDmotorsports]

More clearance does not mean “more flow” In hindsight: more clearance also means more demand for the oil pump to fill Next someone would say “then run thicker oil” to solve the oil pressure issue, maybe it gets solved but now ur windage loss is a lot higher Takes a lot more hp eaten to drive an oil pump to run thick sludge oil

[@irunnit9098]

@@SRDmotorsports I have a motorcycle and I’ve haven’t had any problems yet I do have a higher oil pump pressure with a high oil relief valve.. so I haven’t seen any signs of bearing shavings in my oil .. the clearance are very similar to a k20 engine that’s why I asked .. I’m running .002” on all the mains .. and .0025” on that rods ..

[@SRDmotorsports]

the clearances are fine cuz ur pump can handle it, as long as the side clearances are good too then you’re good to roll for years of fun use

[@irunnit9098]

@@SRDmotorsports appreciate it man I’m not too confident on it every time I make a pass I feel like something might give out today lmao .. but yes I tried to check every clearance possible to make sure everything was left as good as I can understand based on the repair manual.. thanks for the reply man much appreciated

[@notone4029]

Thanks Very much for the detail in rod side play . with what’s acceptable and is not. Excellent video. 👍🏻

[@SRDmotorsports]

Thank you brother… tbh when it was clarified to me years back it was really good for me to know and realize… so I thought it’s a nice thing to put it out there 😎

[@notone4029]

@@SRDmotorsports ABSOLUTELY, Thanks again.

[@SRDmotorsports]

No problem and anytime man :)

[@dawsonmacie6984]

Does gsr rods have those holes to squirt oil on the skirts? Or the actual oil squirters are better?

[@SRDmotorsports]

Both seem to work the same… but even with oil jets on the GSR ? The GSR rods still has the ridges on the side as I mentioned on the video Makes us see that Honda made “sure”

[@HarleySLA]

If I wanted to go from running 5w30 to 0w20 on a d16, what steps should I take to have proper clearances and have good oil pressure. I know I can blueprint the oil pump but surely that's not sufficient. Is this just a pipe dream or something I can viably achieve? Is it something that I should even try. I'm just curious about it

[@SRDmotorsports]

I think 5w30 is quite good in my book… While 0w20 and newer oils may seem enticing let’s not forget most are “roller” rockers now so would our rocker arm pads and cam lobes will like it? Either way I think what works as far as clearances on 5w30 might be close enough for 0w20 I mean it’s not as big a diff unlike 5w30 vs 20w50. And even then people still try to run factory clearances and run that thick oil 🤣

[@HarleySLA]

@@SRDmotorsports I'm speaking from a purely efficiency standpoint. Whereas a lot of people are going for power building, this is an economy build for me. I was the maximum mpg possible, that's my goal for this particular engine. I figured the lighter oil could help, but have been afraid to dive in, I'm a line technician and I've rebuilt a few engines but I'm honestly a bit scared to dip my toes. So I'm here trying to research and gain insight so I can have a 50+ mpg car. It does pretty well as it stands, my record being 45.6 mpg on a tank with a mix of city and mostly highway miles. Sorry for the long posts, I'm super long winded, don't even get me started talking about tools haha. Great channel man, I enjoy your content, definitely subscribed and I hope you reach a huge audience with your knowledge.

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@HarleySLA oh man I agree not about tools… it seems I can never get all the tools that I need and there are more that I need hahaha wtf! now that u mention that? If it isn’t cammed and all? Then I see no downside in trying it My worry was on bigger cams and stiffer springs we still are not a roller rocker system… but other than that, I’ve rebuild a bunch of L15 motors from the Jazz/Fit model and the clearances (bearings) don’t seem to be that much different from the Dseries range… they got real narrow bearings doe especially rod bearings… Now when u think about it “oil exit” was definitely taken into account… Man thank you for checking the channel out, definitely appriciate that but also comments like this makes it even more fun! Plus we know some read this comments and enjoy the info too we know we know 🤣

[@HarleySLA]

@@SRDmotorsports Thank you very much for your time and replies. I agree 100%, there's never enough tools haha. I'll try it out and see how it does and if the oil pressure changes dramatically versus mpg, maybe a highway test. I'm thinking of building a K eventually for a swap into a 93 Integra. I have the engine, I just want to research and figure out what I want to do as far as power and drivability because it'll be a daily vehicle so I can't go too crazy. Thanks again and mad props for everything you do! Cheers from the USA

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@HarleySLA oh nice u got a K hanging out somewhere! def a good way to make crazy ideas hahaha! Thank you for this man! And on the efficiency of things I tend to talk about it cuz most of the time on performance related stuff it sometimes take a back seat when in reality it still sits in the “front seat” of things lol if it’s a stock cam and springs? I’d def look into it I mean the oem “mains” already look good in my book to handle it… the rod side clearances may aid some if u know what I mean 😎 ….il say what u said now… don’t get me started on efficiency talks especially on things like 60% of the piston ring friction comes from the oil control rings… hmmmm ok I should stop As we still actually do race locally hahahaha

[@diytools6874]

Can a b20 block handle oil squirter's?(with proper mod)have you tried?

[@SRDmotorsports]

The b20 block has no provisions for oil squirted on the oil passage so machining it will be senseless and more expensive than just going with a b18c

[@diytools6874]

Yes b18 is better solution but here in Greece we can't find these blocks any more...b20 block is the only way,or k series.

[@SRDmotorsports]

Well I build a few b20 and most like the one since 2017 has been running 12.5sec and 9,700rpm

[@logandimmer4089]

So if i wanted to use Speedfactory H beam rods for a turbo D16y8, would it be worth making those oil relief cuts on the side rods because they don't have an oiling port?

[@SRDmotorsports]

on forged pistons it’s less needed Hence when going forged on the Bseries we plug the oil jet

[@logandimmer4089]

@@SRDmotorsports Ok, so a long as clearances are good and the oil pump cover has been resurfaced and ported cavitation should be an issue. I only plan to rev to 8000 rpm. Thanks for the reply.

[@SRDmotorsports]

Yes should be good like that And you’re welcome man

[@logandimmer4089]

@@SRDmotorsports Ok sweet, I also had some questions about head and manifold porting. I emailed you but my emails haven't been weird lately and not sending to who I send to. Thanks and keep up the great content.

[@SRDmotorsports]

Oh alright will wait on email

[@carslover_volkswagen1]

What bearings do u recommend for boosted D-series? Acl,kings or taiho?

[@SRDmotorsports]

both works even Taiho I mean if I get the right clearances but Acl/Kings u can never go wrong

[@carslover_volkswagen1]

@@SRDmotorsports Thanks Yoh d man!

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@carslover_volkswagen1 I mean just make sure clearances are good on the daido/Taiho then it’s okay unless full race And on acl/king it’s safer even for street

[@sabz3one3]

Wait does a b20 have oil squirter's or b16

[@SRDmotorsports]

B20 doesn’t have them

[@sabz3one3]

@@SRDmotorsports ah okay I bought a b20 that had just been built and started knocking right away. Stripped it and never seen bearings in such a bad way. Somehow no damage to the crank but all the bearings turn to what looks like copper. Still trying to figure what would have caused it to fail

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@sabz3one3 look at the rod bearings = if no hole then it’s a b16 rod bearing Thrust washer if it’s installed with grooved side “in” facing aluminum block then zero to no or low oil pressure lastly Check oil pump… the oil pump cover should be “hell” to loosen if oem but if u can easily loosen it? It was propably opened and checked but not closed properly = low oil pressure Lastly oil pick up tube A lot of times the paper gasket is effed up and when tightend together it’s not air tight so the oil pump sucks air too and that’s Starbucks level froth oil to the bearings lol

[@sabz3one3]

@@SRDmotorsports man your a diamond. So much valuable knowledge man. Yes oil pump came of with ease thinking about it now

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@sabz3one3 just a few things “free” to check while your at it… and every chance to get a step ahead of ur project man

[@the063one]

lots of very good info here bro..thanks for sharing

[@SRDmotorsports]

Thanks man! Just glad I “realized” this was worth talking about and sharing vs “wow Jdm” 😂🤣

[@AdinSLaboy]

He'll yeah good inf the nobody talked a also can u give me a tip to go better on a b18a engine (internalParts)

[@SRDmotorsports]

Oh nice a b18a but vtec ? Or stay non vtec… IMO arp rod bolts on stock rods is hard to go wrong with especially with a lighter piston at 81mm than most in a b20 that has 84mm just looking after the bearing clearances and oilpump (both plastiguage vid and oilpump vid I have here) should take you a long way

[@michaelscott6669]

How much do you charge for a b swap as well as a k swap when you source all the parts yourself? On an ek chassis

[@SRDmotorsports]

Really depends on parts availability especially when some yard sellers sometimes raise it for no reason… but here in the Philippines it’s like that

[@michaelscott6669]

@@SRDmotorsports typical ballpark price of your labor for the swap in your currency?

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@michaelscott6669 oh on labor on Bseries alone it’s roughly $500 and on K around $650-700 on labor

[@freeman8000]

Just found your channel. Respect. Well done. 🙏🏽

[@SRDmotorsports]

Thanks brother!

[@freeman8000]

Do you run a shop?

[@SRDmotorsports]

Yeah essentially this is a shop channel just my fb got hacked so the page isn’t accessible A shop channel I figured, rather than advertise and be cool like most lol why not share what we do? Share some info that’s actually free and was free back in the forum days that mostly disappeared now due to plenty of social media platforms… Locally the shop is doing well (Philippines) I expect some to dislike it but maybe that’s also we are showing how others tend to do a hack job and the customer deserves to be knowledgeable

[@alomechanthasinh4079]

Knowledge is power. The for sharing!

[@SRDmotorsports]

Oh thank you man! I realized those were often overlooked and even 4piston openly showed it so hey :)

[@jamesnewton8164]

Whats your take on wpc treating bearings?

[@SRDmotorsports]

I’d do it or go for it…sadly locally it isn’t available for us but in the US it is and def something good

[@alitoroganan2442]

Boss ralf yung k20 rods may slots din po ba para maka exit ang oil efficiently? Salamats

[@SRDmotorsports]

one of them the k20 or k24 doesn’t Il double check on both k24 (not yet being assembled) and k20a (after the k24 we build this) But rod side play is VERY important

[@alitoroganan2442]

@@SRDmotorsports ano po pala dapat sukat ng rod side play ng k20 kung papalit ako bearings main saka rods, salamats uli

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@alitoroganan2442 all clearances is in the manual And I explained sa video about the specific things pati example given by Don Pauter Iba iba kase “tayo” pero iisa lng tama lol And that is patama to all your fb expert builder friends 😅😂🤣

[@alitoroganan2442]

@@SRDmotorsports pag kakaintindi sir ralf ndi po enough yung stock spec clearance nyo using pauter rods and acl bearings, sana dito na lang kayo sa Melbourne. Di ko po alam kung std o stdx yung dapat ko bilhin na bearings

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@alitoroganan2442 clay test it ul know… yes kung nag luwag bearing clearance dahil sa acl race ung stock sideplay bitin na… but lagi based on oem stock so the manual is important

[@jamesnewton8164]

Lots of knowledge here

[@SRDmotorsports]

Thank you sir, def something worth sharing and won’t hurt my shop/business at all right?

[@alexchin9096]

Your a life saver

[@SRDmotorsports]

thanks for that bro! Just more adventure for u to check upon finishing the project

[@BuyingTickets]

thank god for you and this video!

[@SRDmotorsports]

No worries brother and thank you for appreciating this… now we all can be on the way to making more power! :) “reliable” power 😎

[@njmndoda8216]

Thanks you so much at least I learn a lot from you and now I know

[@SRDmotorsports]

I’m glad brother! And enjoy your projects

[@marvinreyes6270]

Ask lang po ang k24 po na rod bearing eh pede poba siya gamitin sa b20

[@SRDmotorsports]

No iba sukat

[@Alpha-cr5cb]

Using ferrea Valves

[@SRDmotorsports]

Stock is okay too

[@shiftlifegarage3284]

My engine is next, 🌎🙏🎯😎

[@SRDmotorsports]

Oh yes siiiirrr

[@Stock_Crypto_Papi]

Change the battery in your smoke detector lol

[@SRDmotorsports]

Sharp ear lol

[@Stock_Crypto_Papi]

@@SRDmotorsports thanks!! Thanks again for all the great content you've been posting!!

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@Stock_Crypto_Papi you’re welcome man… always nice when it’s useful for others or atleast helps them create their own ideas

[@sleeperracingteam4052]

Legend

[@SRDmotorsports]

Thank you brother!

[@findtherightbeat]

4Piston K24 long rod & piston set = KILL 😁

[@SRDmotorsports]

Yep and the H22 one back in HT …I guess the naysayers who says rod stroke ratio is a myth became a myth too and disappeared 🤣😂🤣

[@ferdinandbenjaminco9113]

Well what can i say.. perfect!🙂💪👍

[@SRDmotorsports]

See the obesrvations on even forged pistons builds? I’m nosey as heck loool

[@ferdinandbenjaminco9113]

@@SRDmotorsports even shaving .0001 on the side of the bearings plus side passages on the big end of the rods, they all matter.👍💪

[@SRDmotorsports]

@@ferdinandbenjaminco9113 yep and “torno” can easily pull it off back then I had doubts until I realize they “zero” it out right at the width so that’s zero to 0.001 def easy right