Stereo 120 Complete Rebuild Kit

from www.updatemydynaco.com . This video describes the installation of the complete rebuild kit into a Dynaco Stereo 120 power amplifier. You can make a Dynaco Stereo 120 sound great, and the only thing that still has to work is the power transformer and the power switch. Almost all of the remaining electronics are replaced.

[@blueribb99]

I had the PAT-4 and Stereo 120 in the late 60's or early 70's (can't remember exactly when). They were a step up from my Scott LK72B Tube Amplifier which I built as a kit in the mid 60's. After I sold the Dynaco equipment, I bought a Marantz 2270 in the mid 70's and then a Pioneer SX-1980 around 1980. About 12 years later I bought a Carver Amp and Pre-Amp (can't remember the models). All these repair and upgrade videos bring back some really sweet memories for me. I spent 40 years repairing TV's, VCR's, Audio Equipment and Computers until retiring last year.

[@treyhorn5645]

This is great!. I came across a one for sale and I thought it could be a fun project. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Thanks, Trey Horn.

[@msanchezbardet]

Thank you fo your explanation. Have an original Dynaco 120 + Pat4 + old tube pre...was my father choose. I enjoy for a long time, and repair as original as i can.. (have electronics skills). Think this no longer is a Dynaco Amp..y somo sort of new comercial amplifier in a Dynaco120 case.. The reason i try to repair as original as i can, is for the sound..dynaco sound; when paired with AR-3a they sound exceptionall.

[@chelseyliu5687]

You can build great sound. Nice~~

[@richardwitt8248]

Fascinating watching this as I had come into possession of one of these amps recently. Here's my problem: I plugged it in and turned it on and it seemed fine. Sadly, the use blew (as I had neglected to wire up the speakers first - at least, that's what I thought)! Upon replacing the 3A slo-blo fuse and attaching the speakers, I turned on the amp and it promptly blew the fuse. Any guesses? Which "kit" did you install in the video? (There are so many listed on the website you refer us to.). Thank you!

[@rogernascimento9094]

Very Good !

[@akitikallc]

Thanks!

[@joaofrancisco1184]

Good evening, do you send the complete kit assembled and tested to Brazil, with volume control, mute system, LED display, binding post, and RCA connectors?

[@danedewaard8215]

What causes the noise at turn on (only) of my SCA80Q, which has a low frequency crackle? This also occurs at shut down! Thanks for the video!!!

[@joaofrancisco1184]

Nice project, will you make the kits Available for sale? or the diagrams?

[@akitikallc6161]

You can find the kit and the manual that guides the re-build at www.updatemydynaco.com

[@blueribb99]

Except for the chassis and transformer, you no longer have a Dynaco Stereo 120. Sure, it may have way better specs than the original but the entire circuitry has been changed. Also, from a purely aesthetic point of view, the 3 electrolytics wired together look terrible. The original design and layout was far more pleasing to the eyes. Most people doing this rebuild will probably buff the chassis to a mirror shine first. After all, it was plated for a reason. I never thought this old Dynaco gear would become collectible.

[@akitikallc1931]

You're right, Glenn...the result is much better than a Stereo 120. I think people hold onto the Dynaco stuff and re-build it because it's still a great value, it's easy to work on, and it just feels great to make something that works so well. BTW, if you're looking to do a kit from scratch, you might take a look at www.akitika.com, or akitika.com/GT102.html

[@sixstringbluesify]

Very collectible.

[@pa6390]

sloppy work!

[@akitikallc6161]

Richard---Easiest kit to do is the Stereo 120 Complete Rebuild Kit...Assume you want the ultimate re-build, then you'd order this one: www.updatemydynaco.com/storeindex.html#ST120CRKL2 The other kits cost a bit less as you re-use more of the original Dynaco amp. As to the fuse blowing...the best approach is "divide and conquer". There are a couple of red wires that go from the positive terminal of C12 to the amp modules. Power down, then cut those wires. Now power up and see if the fuse hangs in there. If it still blows, then the next step is to remove and temporarily tape up one of the red transformer wires that goes from the power transformer to either pin 8 or pin 9 of the regulator PCB. Just always be careful that the amp is unplugged, and that you've waited a few minutes since the last power up before plunging in. That gives you time to allow the caps discharge.