Stihl 025 complete assembly as part of the 025/MS250 rebuild 6 saw series I GOT A GUSHER TOO 1HR IN

T27 T27 T27 !!!!!!******T27 T27 CORRECTION. I had used t25 screws on the porch this day and so had that screw stuck in mind these screws have a T27 head SD do most of the stihl screws you will encounter. some t20s some flats mostly T27.
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As I post this I do know how to edit a bit. I have tinkered on the two Derek's jonsered videos editing in KZbin studio. Just takes allot of time and besides yall can watch me struggle, see how to get things done if you did em in the wrong order with the intake shroud. See me slice my finger open glove up and keep at it. This is real life this saw is now sitting on my shelf after 2 tanks at idle and I'm anxious to put it to wood. So it'll be ready for its new home (maybe that's you) very soon.

[@terryhuston9011]

Thanks for going into such detail on every step of assembly. I have the same saw and will refer to this video often. 👍

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Glad it was helpful! I try my best and will get better over time with more views and closer detailed shots when the new shop is finally finished.

[@vladislav.ivanov]

Thank You very much!!

[@chainsawredeemer85]

You're welcome! And thank you very much for watching!!! and for commenting!!!

[@adamhays2256]

Sweet video. Great detail and explanation AND insight into your thoughts and reasoning regarding your work.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@user-hj6wp6nz7w]

Awesome video

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Thanks much

[@johnclarke6647]

I pull boots through the rear wall. I cut a piece of cotton twine about two feet long and put two wraps on the end of the boot. Mi try to even up the ends of the twine and feed them through the hole, usually with my hemostats. I the spray the end of the boot and the hole with my soapy water mix ( 3:1 solution of Dawn and water) on these areas. I then pull the strings and with my fingers help it through the hole. Once through, you can unwind it from the end of the boot. It takes a good bit of force to pull it through. Don’t be bashful. The key on boots that have a tab for the impulse line is to make sure you located it properly on the single before you started,so the tab will fit into its slot on the rear wall. I use my soapy water for any rubber part or grommet to help it fit easily in its appropriate location. Stihl calls it a pressing liquid. They just add a little alcohol to the mix and charge you a fortune for it. I could add rubbing alcohol to my mix but I do not.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

huh sounds like another science experiment to come!!!

[@stihlhead3338]

Blue loctite will disintegrate plastic! I only use it in aluminum.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

I have never seen the locktite disintegrate Stihl plastic.

[@johnclarke6647]

A heat gun helps to get those buffers in, just warm them up a bit. A heat gun also helps to get the buffer plugs in - warmup the rubber and push the plug in.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

OH CHHHUIITTTTTTTTT NEIGHBORS!!!!! We have an experiment to do!!!!!!!

[@johnclarke6647]

I bought a pack of 20 bar guides, pretty cheap off EBay. I was missing four on my 024, so I have 16 left. They are identical on most of my Stihl saws, so I have plenty left over. Most saws have two on the case and two on the sprocket cover, but not always. My 021 had two on the case and none on the sprocket cover. Mufflers, I wire wheel the off, degrease them, and paint them with high temp black grill paint. The first time I run the saw will bake it on. Airilter cover - give it a good pop on the top to seat it, so you can latch it down. Using the proper oem air filter, seated fully in the base will help to install the cover. Make sure the control lever is in the full choke position. Afterwards, check the control lever in each position to make sure it is working, properly - full choke,pus it up to half choke, blip the throttle to idle and push it up to off. All four positions have to work. White lithium grease on the end of the control lever, in the slot that holds the control lever and on the hub the metal spring connects helps to make its function become smooth and flawless.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Yes I like greas in places there is allot of friction and it will not cause any issues!

[@johnclarke6647]

@@chainsawredeemer85 grease is cheaper than parts. My grandfather taught me how to lubricate a Ford Jubilee when I was about ten before he would let me drive it. He was a retired roundhouse superintendent for the railroad. He would check behind me to make sure I did not miss a grease fitting, too. “Capt.Jack” was a real task master.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKKTfKF-mMuNiJY help me juice this in the algorithm 4 part series all 4 videos posted at the same time and only part 4 made it in where ya been john???

[@stihlhead3338]

Try the string method for pulling the intake boot through the baffle plate. Wrap your string around the intake boot flange 4 or 5 times and pull the string through the hole and pull, it pulls the boot flange straight through. No needle nose pliers to ruin your intake boot.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

yes this is also a good method!

[@dannyhudson5883]

The to wires that come out beside the carburetor on the left side

[@johnclarke6647]

I have not had any problems with aftermarket boots at all. Eith an oem or AM boot will pull through just as easily if you use a good soapy water mix in a spray bottle to lubricate things.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

It's not pulling them through. The AM boots do not hold up and are often too thin for the application. If you have a good AM boot you like send me a link to try one!!!

[@geomatrix6481]

Legend

[@chainsawredeemer85]

thats whats up

[@johnclarke6647]

.20 is correct. I use Bosch WFR6F, the Stihl original equipment plug.

[@johnclarke6647]

Mistake. It is WSR6F, Bosch.

[@1stfloorguy59]

I spent awile fixing my 025. Bar oil was leaking out from the bottom. And near the muffler. I kept changing things until I looked really close and realized something got into the clutch housing and shot threw plastics and hit that little 90 plastic piece under the handle dead nuts near where the gasket meets up to the plastic. I had to fill the hole in with jb weld and carve it out with a Dremel. I have other saws so that is also another reason why it took me a bit on it. I think I paid 50 bucks for it so i had some wiggle room lol

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Well hey neighbor! think I understand what you mean, but I'm not certain. do you have any photos that sounds like an unusual situation.

[@1stfloorguy59]

@@chainsawredeemer85 I do have a couple pictures where do you want them sent

[@chainsawredeemer85]

@@1stfloorguy59 [e-mail] thanks neighbor!!

[@chainsawredeemer85]

@@1stfloorguy59 you mean the white elbow correct?

[@1stfloorguy59]

@@chainsawredeemer85 correct. I thought it was the gasket leaking but upon further inspection the whole gasket seat into the plastic was compromised. So I jb d it and ground it to shape with a Dremel. Then put a bigger gasket on it

[@Lilman3000]

I used paracord to pull the boot through. Took 2 seconds. Smoothest I ever experienced. But the extension trick worked super easy too for the plastic clamp shield. Now im stuck on were the impulse hose go's from the nipple to? Just straight up. Tucked between the boot plastic and the handle?

[@Lilman3000]

Big pair of channel locks pushed in the grommet for the cover very easily

[@chainsawredeemer85]

It hooks to the underside of the handle there is a nipple there also

[@johnclarke6647]

That rubber carb adjustment grommet is one for the MS 250, right? The ones that come on most of this series of saws only has one adjustment hole. I ordered the one for my 025 from Stihl. On it, you can attach a piece of Tygon line and put one of the newer tank vents for the MS 250, too. Just plug the fuel line in, run it across the top of the carb, plug it into the tank vent, nipple on the gas tank, and plug it into the adjustment grommet. I don’t know which setup is best, but I like the later vent system.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

I am not sure I havent seen this footage in awhile but some of the 025s have both screws, and therefore a different gromet. Well Kyles 025 we just switched from the duck bill aftermarket to the newer style and his saw is still not doing any better.... SOOOO IDK the new styles are very expensive so I will keep using the aftermarket until I find reason not to

[@johnclarke6647]

@@chainsawredeemer85 I just replace single screw carbs, set both screws at one turnout and go from there. I have a bunch of one screw carbs in the shop. I can’t say they make thebsaw run better but they give me peace of mind knowing the saw will not go much above 12,600-12,800, my setting for all of my saws.

[@johnclarke6647]

@@chainsawredeemer85 mine didn’t and it was an original Stihl carb and the adjustment grommet matched the carb. My 024 had a similar carb, as did my 021. This was Stihl’s first attempt to keep folks from adjusting their carbs and to keep them compliant with EPA and California’s CARB regulations, like chainsaws are the real polluters of the environment. Now, they are after cows. Next, will be humans breathing.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

@@johnclarke6647 NEIGHBOR IS THAT WHERE ALL THE COWS HAVE GONE GO WATCH THE SHORT I JUST POSTED

[@luca490]

Hey neighbor can I ask you a question? So I'm learning about carburators for a cad project, and all the ones I've seen have a tube like the one you used to connect to the fuel and from my understainding this tube is somehow connected to the cylinder so when there's the depression the piston leaves behind the membrane that acts as a fuel pump in the carburator "expands" and fill the reservoir with fuel. So how does it work with your carbuartor? How does the pumping get the energy from

[@chainsawredeemer85]

I am not 100% sure what you're asking but there is a fuel line that goes to the fuel tank and usually what's called an impulse hose which connects the the cylinder or crankcase. The impulse is what causes the pump diaphragm to move when the cylinder creates vacuum and pressure.

[@luca490]

​@@chainsawredeemer85Yeah I apologize for the atrocious English. I'm pretty sure we're talking about the same thing, I asked because at 43:50 when you're mounting the carburator I only see, if I understood correctly, the fuel line that connects with the fuel tank. From my understanding there would be another tube like that that I didn't see.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

On this model that is the only one. The impulse hose connects to the other side of the rear handle/top cover. On saws with a primer bulb there is 2-4 "tubes" that connect to the carb.

[@johnclarke6647]

Good wives are hard to find. I have been married 52 years, have two daughters and seven grandchildren. The key to finding a good wife is to find one whose family history pretty much matches your family history and DNA profile. I am Scot, English and German. My wife is English, Irish and German. We are both highly educated. She has more spit and polish than me and gets along better with folks than I do. With me, what you see is what you get. I do not pull any punches with anybody. I am a Marine NCO aunt raised both of my girls as Marines. They are tough, as well they should be. This is a tough world. Both are girls are also well educated, too - both work for school systems, like my mother who taught school for 50 years. Find a girl like you because differences will rear their ugly ear soon enough.

[@dannyhudson5883]

The to wires that come out of the back of the o25 where does the black one go to

[@chainsawredeemer85]

do you mean the one that ges to the kill switch??? If so it plugs into the black on/off kill switch/lever

[@cloughville7346]

What in God's name is "press oil"?

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Press oil is an installation oil that completely evaporates if you email [e-mail] I will try to get you stihls part # and you can actually order it if you got a cool dealer

[@mikeaguilar5764]

This guy whines and cries about everything. Amazing anyone subscribes.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Clearly you do not know the channel at all nor do you know me or my story. What you view as Whining and crying I view as sharing lifes challenges because it helps others. You are a part of the problem the world is full of hatred, I am trying to be part of the solution. It is not easy putting my problems on the internet, but I do it because so many ppl have said it helps them not feel alone. Try being kind instead of being hateful neighbor.

[@mikeaguilar5764]

@@chainsawredeemer85 It's whining and crying. The few minutes if your video I could stand was filled with "Oh my poor life is so hard. Woe is me." You're worse than Eeyore and Shleprock combined.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

Again you clearly have NO IDEA who I am or What I am about, you only view it that way as a matter of your perspective, which is typically bc ppl have daddy issues or a "man" complex. If you do not like it move along, this channel benefits more ppl than you know or choose to understand and appreciate. There is a difference between sharing your battles and whining. When one shows the excessive amount of battles they face on a daily basis yet keep going that is not whining. Whining is sitting there and giving up not doing nothing to face the day. You need to get a dictionary neighbor

[@mikeaguilar5764]

@@chainsawredeemer85 I don't need to know who you are to know that you put yourself out here as a whining bitch. That's all there is to it. If you don't like the characterization, change yourself. Only you can do that, nobody else.

[@chainsawredeemer85]

You do not agree with the masses, sorry you hate yourself neighbor and that your life is so terrible you have to troll ppl on the internet because you have an inability to understand and comprehend the human psyche. But it is ok just go ask somebody for a hug so you can feel better.