Stop 3d printing so slow!!! 🤯 (how to print faster)

Use these simple tricks to 3d print more than 3,357% faster. (no joke)
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[@evank7113]

This video is more a commercial than helpful content. It seems like it was made for people who have never even 3D printed not those looking to reduce print times

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

I disagree. A 3 day print has loads of time to fail or have power outages. Faster is often a better finish too.

[@dadandme]

You can also tweak a few parameters such as: - number of perimeters - perimeters speed (interior vs exterior) - number of solid layers (bottom and top) - speed of solid layers (bottom and inner) - top solid layer speed, pattern and width - infill pattern - infill size - infill speed - infill every 2 layers - infill only where needed - travel speed - etc. Also, you can replace the current print system by Kilpper in order to reach faster speeds with same quality or even better. Depending on what your goal is (speed, quality, structure, balanced, …), you should be able fine tune more settings. I am pretty sure that you can reduce you print time even more!

[@aldaman2725]

Please give us more details.

[@J-_-S]

im new to printing, on maker website they provide printer settings, dont know if those parameters are optimal

[@pollrodri6254]

@@J-_-S depends on material, geometry, external temp,... You will learn with time and failed prints

[@oghomelesskid]

plz make a video on 3d printing.

[@J-_-S]

@@pollrodri6254 oh yes Im failing, one piece failed to print, but rest of print has printed good. DOnt know why this shit is happening

[@mihaicristian4079]

TLDR: Increase the layer height Increase print speed Bigger nozzle Lightning infills

[@MAGAMAN]

And this all reduces the quality of the print significantly.

[@mihaicristian4079]

@@MAGAMAN You don't need .1mm quality when printing something very big

[@takatamiyagawa5688]

Would probably be more useful to present the percentage reduction in print time provided by each setting individually.

[@Panthera_Leo_]

Here's a video idea, 'How To Use Plastic Welding To Fix Broken 3D Printed Parts'. When something breaks, the simplest solution is just to print a whole new part and toss the old one. But that's wasteful when the part can just be stuck back together. Sometimes glue is the best option for this, but when something doesn't have enough surface area, you don't have glue on hand, and/or you just can't use it for one reason or another, take advantage of how parts are made in the first place and just melt them together with a soldering iron and a little filler material (the raw filament)

[@michaelbujaki2462]

I use a 3D pen for this.

[@crazybird199]

@@michaelbujaki2462 same

[@Nine-Signs]

step 1, burn paper, collect ash (carbon). Step 2, mix into cheap ass 2 part epoxy resin you can get from any discount store for a dollar, step 3 glue/fill shit for a far more permanent/strong slightly flexible bond than you can get with any glue alone. ;o)

[@MrJrohl]

Check out frankly built videos. He has severel about pla welding

[@HReality]

So, while Ive considered myself a hobbyist for years(all the way back to maker farm) what I have yet to see anyone do a video is development of a filament profile from nothing and explanation of all the slicer settings OR. complete calibration process for an individual printer for any given slicer. Slicers have a ton of settings and any one miscalculation can be disastrous.

[@joshua2400]

that would be helpful

[@joshua2400]

Jesus Christ the good true miraculous God loves you my friend :" )

[@Dglinski2]

This would be so helpful for getting a profile setup on newer cura for my Lulzbot Taz6

[@artemcultura6191]

Teaching Tech has a fantastic complete printer calibration walk through as well as profile creation

[@king_james_official]

@@joshua2400 god doesn't exist. you're like a flat earther, you believe in something that can be disproven within seconds

[@Daekar3]

Adding a Volcano or other high flow nozzle can make a big difference in maximum flow rate even if you don't replace the heater block. CNC Kitchen did a great video on different nozzle solutions which can handle significantly higher speeds without underextruding.

[@taco2k3]

Thanks for the slicing tips to make my prints faster. I will definitely give them a try. The ad plugs at the end of your video were not that painful as they seem to be for other people. Thanks again 👍🏼

[@DavidPaauwe]

When it comes down to it, there are two ways to reduce print time: reduce the amount of filament used, and extrude at the maximum volume flow rate that your extruder or part cooler can handle. Wide, thick layers will result in a short print time, even at slow movement speeds. A wall that's twice as wide and twice as thick printed at half the speed still prints in half the time. It's also much easier to upgrade your max extrusion rate than to improve all the kinematics of your machine to enable faster movement speeds.

[@psedach]

The third way is Klipper with input shaping. Better and faster commands to your printer. This removes the limitations in slow Arduino style controllers BUT your printers maximum potential will still be limited by the flow rate and kinematics of your machine (albeit the limit will be higher than without faster processing).

[@mtayseer82]

You can also try increasing extrusion width

[@michaelbujaki2462]

Yes you can. I did an experiment where I extruded a 0.8mm line with a 0.4mm nozzle. This really speeds up the layers.

[@erikschmidt2571]

Yeah but that's basically what he did when he changed the nozzle

[@mtayseer82]

@@erikschmidt2571 Most slicers set the default extrusion width to ~ 110% of nozzle size, but it can be increased to 150% or even 200%

[@michaelbujaki2462]

@@erikschmidt2571 and with a 0.8 you can go up to 1.6mm line width, but turn up the heat because it will gobble the filament like you wouldn't believe.

[@mattgavioli6762]

Yeah, you can print fast by swapping nozzle, increasing layer height and linear speed... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed) , not to mention the fact that you need to tune settings accordingly. Useful knowledge, but fairly incomplete unfortunately

[@floridaman964]

Enough to get you started researching for more info.

[@mattgavioli6762]

@@floridaman964 yes and no... someone could take only the info from this video and start to crank up shit, and halfway through a print find out that it doesn't work properly. One should know that this is incomplete info

[@supersecularboypants]

@@mattgavioli6762 But in the video he said his Ender 3’s are stock, did he not?

[@mattgavioli6762]

@@supersecularboypants hence me saying "... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed)"

[@Ibian666]

@@mattgavioli6762 One should make it very clear in the vid what is missing, and perchance include it.

[@MichaelChin1994]

I'm probably going to come off as harsh. I don't mean to. I just want to provide constructive criticism. I feel deceived. No duh using more printers will result in a faster print. I understand you are promoting a sponsor, and that's fine. But the beginning of the video made me feel that you were going to go over slicer settings that let you print that giant benchy using one printer. First video of yours I have disliked.

[@slaughterman44]

@@greatestevar he does go over settings, the buying more printers is just a sponsor at the end

[@yamaha230xxx]

Yea I agree this was light weight click bait…. He literally said thing any basic user of 3D printer should know…….. and he’s time tables was off, the original print time was 81 hours, yet at the end he said we saved over 80 hours? So the print time is less then an hour now???

[@KūshoShijin]

You’re right also he said no upgrades then immeadiately said use a larger nozzle which is upgrade or alternate purchase so immeadiately a lie

[@andrewut7ya511]

I hear what you are saying, but there was a couple decent tips that are legit. Lightning infill is pretty good and ill be honest, i didnt know i could print as fast as he did in this video. Ive been printing at work for about 6 months, all self taught so i still have alot to learn but my prints come out great on the ultimakers5. But im going slooooooow. Ususally at 30 sometimes up to 45 speed. Our prints need to be very precise so i just error on the slow side thinking it will greatly improve quality but now im thinking i could speed up a bit. Anyone got an opinion on prints speed in relation to precision? Like whats the tipping point where you atart sacrificing quality for speed. Im sure theres not one solid answer so general advice/opinions are welcome. Thanks everybody

[@shadetreesupercar]

He did go over printer settings and reduced the print time 80% and 80 hours. It was only when he printed the HUGE model that he used multiple printers. If you feel deceived, it is due to a misunderstanding on your part.

[@Jack-kz4nb]

You’re increasing day by day, it’s incredible

[@benliew491]

Without the correct hotend and extruder combo you cannot print at more than 80mm/s without running into quality problems. The stock Bowden Ender 3 setup won’t work that well on high volumetric flow rates. Yes it is printable but you will face skipping on the extruder, or lots of under extrusions

[@attackonhumby]

i just got my first 3d printer for christmas so im a complete beginner, all these tips are for sure gonna help. thank you!

[@TheFrugalFlyRodder]

Wow... just WOW! Thank you!!!

[@jonathanbrock3462]

Great video!! Super helpful tips 👏

[@brandonquirk2289]

I also heard that printers like the FLsun super racer prints 50-80% faster due to its 3 arm design. I use a ender 3 v2 since I just started recently.

[@ytHUNTR]

oh well, one thing I didn't know was the lightning infill. I have 2 ender 3 with noctua fans all over. I van currently print at 100mm/s, this is double the recommended speed! so cheers to OP, for showing, that it's possible

[@avgjoeshow4208]

Yea lightning is new in cura 5.0. I think the new PrusaSlicer update has lightning capabilities as well

[@ytHUNTR]

@@avgjoeshow4208 thanks for the info, I will try it out

[@avgjoeshow4208]

@@ytHUNTR yea check it out. It’s pretty sweet and can save loads of time. I wouldn’t use it on a part that you need any real strength though. But if it’s just for looks it works great

[@BasementStudi0s]

u saved me 3 hours on a nerf mag. thankyou good sir

[@melvinmartinez5144]

Thank you Steven…this vid was very informative. I’ve only been printing for a few weeks now…maybe two months top. Yesterday morning I had my first flirt with 3D printing disaster. I set the printer up and after watching it for a few layers…I set out to do other thing on the computer. It failed and I had a blow back. I cleaned it up and printed more.Tomorrow will be a tuning day thanks to your vid. You answered some questions I’ve had since before getting a 3D printer. I did get a few bigger nozzles and I’m gonna try the .6mm and speed it up thanks to your vid. I have a Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and I believe that I should have the house filled with 3D printed stuff already! LOL

[@ayomiposidurojaiye7703]

I used print on my stock ender with a upgraded motherboard using 150mm/s and then I got the cr10 smart pro this year and I print depending on what I need to use the print for I print 250mm/s and it still comes out looking perfect.

[@rightsdontcomewithpermits7073]

🤣

[@tardarsauce3355]

Thanks! I'm gonna try it out tonight!

[@jmcguire5151]

Need more Micro Centers in the country.

[@d.dizzy1]

My life goal: making my filament storage look like a store shelf.

[@loszhor]

Thank you for the information.

[@LathanM]

Rather than using lightning infill, I user infill support and/or gradual infill steps. They have been around in Cura from the beginning but too many people overlook them.

[@Void_xplorer]

Can you tell me how is this done?

[@LathanM]

Install the setting guide plug-in and it gives details on all the settings and how to use them.

[@octimus2000]

How is it better than lightning?

[@kenisthistoo7499]

Banger of a video!

[@3DJapan]

Infill doesn't really affect strength that much, if you want more strength add more walls.

[@tonyk680]

You! Are the Man!!! thank you so much for that information

[@jnd9142]

😂 Micro center!!! I knew that was coming😂 to bad its 400 miles from where i live😢

[@boboscurse4130]

There's a Micro Center opening near me in May. I wonder what kind of deals they will have.

[@Tonton_Retepttorton]

That helped so much

[@Hotwire_RCTrix]

Did you know that zigzag infill is almost as fast as lightning and its stronger. And there is another way to speed up printing. Out walls actually print faster and concentric top and bottom layers also print faster. Adding more walls can actually speed up prints with narrow infill sections.

[@rctrix9063]

Really excellent. So many 3d print videos are not very useful. Printing times are a big issue and this video is right to the point. Thanks 👍

[@DiggerDevil]

cheers my guy, big help. strait to the point i wanted

[@OctavianTheGr8]

The US barely has a microcenter they need to be in every major city. I have never seen one in person

[@seancook4317]

micro center has this deal a lot, right now it's for a ender 3 v2 which i like a lot, but i suck at everything so i couldnt get it running right, so now i have it on the floor somewhere wasting space.

[@MrSeanmcgall]

so im printing like 1,6 mm cards out of wood filament, any tips to speed it up? also making boxes that the cards fit in, same question?

[@JeffJackson86]

thanks for the link for the $100 off the Ender pro. I picked one up! Subbed!

[@malupeluchi6118]

Am so gonna get into this around Xmas time

[@Bassotronics]

There is an option on Cura which reduces my prints from 8 hours to just 3 hours and is called “Adaptive Layers”. I turn the option on and in most cases it dramatically reduces print time.

[@crazybird199]

I've used all these except that infill tactic. Is that in PrusaSlicer too? Love using the other tactics, though

[@LT72884]

Ideamaker slicer has adaptive infil where you set a percentage for the majority of the print, but 3 layers before a solid layers, it will use the higher percentage. i set mine to 5 % and 15%. I also use 0.32mm layer height on my 0.4 nozzle with a line width of 0.5 or 0.6mm which is the same as a 0.6 nozzle, but with my stock nozzle. people think you need to change nozzles when you dont. 3D printing was originally designed around a 0.5 nozzle and 0.5 line/extrusion width. with my stock 0.4 nozzle i print with a line/extrusion width as low as 0.3 and as high as 0.6 with no issues.

[@Leynad778]

Maybe your nozzle is worn out🤔

[@LT72884]

@@Leynad778 its a new nozzle. You dont have to change to a 0.6 nozzle to get the benefits. On my 0.4, my line width is at 0.6 and my layer height is 0.32 for some parts

[@codys1108]

I like how the music sounds like I just unplugged something from the USB slot.

[@jnkmal9519]

Thanks for the tips! MyCreality slicer doesn't seem to have lightning infil. Any idea how to add it?

[@cindywhite9754]

Lol- love the Benchy’s!

[@lifehackertips]

How did you join that giant print? I’d like to know more about how to do that

[@garramiro]

i find hard to believe the hotend on the ender 3 can push 120mm/s printing speeds with a big nozzle.

[@yeahnah6468]

Yep you're right. He isn't taking into account that the hot end can only melt a certain volume of filament per second. I normally print at 150mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle. But with a 0.6mm nozzle I can barely get past 80mm/s without running into issues. That's with bigtreetech upgraded board with nice stepper drivers and a pi running octoprint. This guy just messed with slicer settings and took the estimated time as gospel without testing those crazy low print times.

[@ishanmamadapur6307]

Rated flow is inthink under 12mm³ per sec. So 0.4x120x0.28 is 13.44. So not too much for short bursts . The speed is always the top speed remember, which is achievable only if the line is long enough to accelerate to and decelarate from the max speed in the distance available. So often, the actual avg speed isn't going to be 120 per se.

[@karlburmeister1552]

Ya, you can clearly see where it starts under extruding in the video.

[@katywalker8322]

@@ishanmamadapur6307 , would the calculation need to be 120 x 0.27 x π x (0.4/2)^2? IE, taking the area of the circular nozzle rather than its diameter? Not sure as new to this so I might be missing something.

[@carloswall5510]

Now I finally found a store where to buy filament

[@yurushii]

Thank you very much for this video!! Awesome!

[@solo_la_fam]

Are you doing any type of giving away for a 3D print in the near future? I would love to get back into 3D printing

[@DemarcusQ]

How do you get the price estimate of how much it would cost to print on the Cura’s slicer?

[@frankdearr2772]

great topic, thanks

[@mohammadalaaelghamry8010]

Great video. Thank you.

[@tango_5427]

Ya I'd love to buy one... sadly the nearest microcenter is almost 6hrs away 😔

[@johnp1911]

Wish I had a micro center near me

[@ferdinandsibayan1232]

What material or filament used here. Thanks

[@dr-clb]

very cool! At the end you show joining the several prints with what looked like a soldering iron. how are you joining the prints?

[@avic6069]

I’m not too sure, but I’d guess a 3D pen, using the melted filament as glue.

[@johnnymanutes2057]

It's a soldering iron. He's just re-melting the surface layers and bonding the two parts together with melted plastic. A cheap one off amazon works great.

[@RobertLugg]

@@johnnymanutes2057 Harbor Freight and other hardware stores have soldering irons specifically designed to melt plastic. They work much better than a "regular" soldering iron.

[@reservoirchannel5576]

very brief and helpful

[@santiagopostorivo]

Have you changed acceleration and jerk? If not, I dont think that you are really reaching 120mm/s everytime. Maybe in a long line you will, but not in a model with a lot of sudden orientation changes.

[@HELLEKSONART]

Thanks Teach! Great video

[@HELLEKSONART]

Working on a Yosh HellBat Suit.

[@Maximilian1111]

Is there any short List with the Options?

[@fancydestroyer8910]

What kind off hot knife di you use to piece together that Benchy

[@wieneroach2280]

i got my prints from 1749 minutes to 409 with ONLY Settings. i made the outer lines thin and the inner ones thick but ran them both faster so that the smaller one still looks good with that extrution. strength works as well. allon a 0.4 nozzle

[@OzarkArtsandCrafts]

I purchased the 2v Neo last week. I followed all setup videos and pla not sticking to flex plate.

[@CENTAUR559]

Microcenter needs to replace the Fry's that were in the San Francisco area. After Fry's closed, it left all those buildings just waiting for another person to come and take up all the customers that went there.

[@TimeToDrawChannel]

Does anyone know why nozzle doesn't move on z axis during printing, but can move well without printing?

[@Guy_Sandler]

Hello, I see you are a creality user, can you make a video about why the creality slicer is bad and why you should switch to prusaslicer/cura? My friend is also a creality fan but will not understand why the creality slicer is bad

[@Exstaz]

What acceleration are you running?

[@sulzhuk]

Could you please give some advice How to slice the model for few separate part for printing them on the different printers at the same time?

[@erikschmidt2571]

Perimiters and acceleration: Am I a joke to you?

[@wyattspop]

Would you consider doing a vid on the ideal settings? I went into "Speed" for instance when you told us to print faster (I've never gone over 70) and saw your wall-speed etc was 60, Cura's default is 35. I'd like to know all your settings and I'm sure all your viewers would too. Thanks

[@wyattspop]

PS You should do voice-overs, you have the perfect tone for it

[@ZonedW]

My closest micro center is 3200 km away...

[@user-oi4ke8ub7k]

how to get the nozzle I see on your video?

[@franbaburiic8154]

omg tnx

[@NagashiChidorii]

upgrading hotend would also increase print speeds and making sure to use the latest Cura verison as well. There was an update awhile back that increased speeds by like 40% just from cura algorithm alone. With a new hot end, I was able to 2x speed in some cases but decided to go back down for better quality

[@mustafamufasa]

I’ve had constant issues with my Ender 3 V2. Final straw was a clogged of hot end. I could buy an upgraded one along with other parts but then why not just get a better printer period? Which I had done. I learned alot from It which I’m thankful for, but I’m curious but others experience with it. Have you had an issue with it as well? How’d you solve those problems and did you end up with a reliable machine? What did it take

[@pogchamp4212]

do you clean / maintain it? or after printing you just let it be?

[@Mathoose]

I bought my first ender 3 at microcenter and in the first day of printing I couldn’t be happier. Can’t recommend it enough

[@0rsx2]

Hey man I wanted to know what software did you use to split up the model and scale it up

[@TiagoRamosVideos]

Very interesting tips, thanks 🙏

[@hen069]

Hi

[@injesusname3732]

put your speed to 999 mm/sec and print in 10 minutes

[@Cusulozz]

Good video actually I’m going to start printing a half life alyx combine charger and without this video it will take me a lot of time so you saved me

[@baileyqualey5356]

I’m new to printing can you use different slicers for different printers like the Prusa slicer for a sovol?

[@calledout4437]

Oh how I wish we had a Micro Center where I live. Fry's closed up so now we're stuck with Best Buy! Yeahhh!

[@user-yu2ce7vj3z]

how did you make the cura to show you the price when you slice a model

[@lancereyesromero7811]

lol that "120mm/s" on your V2 isn't 120. that's more like 60 or 70. Stock board can't print that fast no matter what you do to your setting or firmware unless you are running klipper.

[@gotmilkbutt]

Yeah my printer moves faster than that not at 2x speed. His accels must be slow

[@gotmilkbutt]

Though if you ran a bedslinger at 120 you'd get some mid print part removal for free.. Don't ask me how I know lol

[@taffox3566]

@@gotmilkbutt I have a voron bedslinger and with pei, adhesion is maybe a little too strong 😅

[@lancereyesromero7811]

@@gotmilkbutt I have gone up to 200 with my V2 but the output is far from acceptable. Lol too much ringing because of the heavy bed and my part cooling was not even close to being enough

[@pr0xZen]

@@lancereyesromero7811 I can get ~180 on my big'ish CR-10S bedslinger with fairly good quality, with 0.6 nozzle doing 0.32 or 0.4 (don't recall) layers. It's running an SKR2 board with 2209s all around except one 5160 for a more beefy bed motor, a much more capable extruder, copper dragon with the mellow nickel-plated copper volcano block, and 70w cartridge. Plus bigger motor for the bed, low elasticity belts, and accelerometers to optimize travel/acc/deacc etc and mitigate ringing. Bed was aready heavy (no S4/S5 or Max, but still heavy), adding a magnetic flex plate, 1000W mains silicone heater pad and ceramic cotton insulation didn't help; probably added 750-800g. There's not a whole lot of "CR-10S" left by now I guess, that I will concede.

[@brianjcalovic4577]

my cura dosnt have the lightning infill what else could i use or where can i get ultimaker

[@bsr8129]

120mm/s, how so? I tried uping mine to 80mm/s and had so many issues, what other settings in cura are you changing?

[@karlburmeister1552]

Ya, when he showed that shot of the stock ender 3 printing at 120mm/s I had to laugh looking at the underextrusions it was making trying to keep up. A hot end with a longer hot zone like a volcano, etc would have no problems with that.

[@NumptyTheNumpty]

make a life sized benchy and go to the ocean to go on it

[@truckingfamily2834]

How do I find someone in my area to come and teach me hands on 3D printing

[@jacobcalderon5738]

When does the coupon expire

[@bleach_drink_me]

Throw a spider hotend on it, you can get a decent gain over stock hotends on the ender 3. I have been impressed with the flow and reliability of the spider. Don't get me wrong, it can't outflow a volcano but it doesn't ooze like a volcano does. With some tweaks to coasting and retractions it prints really good. If someone wants to push the speed a bit more they are going to need more hotend flow, a simple all metal heatbreak will actually provide a decent bit more flow pair it with a good Copper nozzle for even better flow and another benefit is reduced retraction distance (~2.5mm vs ~6mm stock) which makes a noticeable difference in print time. As for speed, you should have at least mentioned acceleration. It doesn't reduce the speed in cura BUT in real world prints it does. Stock ender3 if want to keep it like stock reliability 2k acceleration is perfectly acceptable on all my enders when they were stock. Rambling about my enders below if anyone cares if not, don't read anymore. Also willing to answer questions if anyone reads this wants to ask. I have multiple enders all with different mods. My most reliable is stock hotend with a bi-metal heatbreak, aluminum creality extruder. Followed by the spider hotend,titan direct drive, skr 1.4 turbo w/tmc 2209. Fastest ender of mine is the one with linear rails,coper volcano block, titanium heatbreak, bmg extruder, mks tinybee w/tmc 2208 and all steppers upgraded. Most troublesome but coolest imo is the dual nozzle, dual extruder setup. It's got skr 1.4 turbo w/2208, 1 titan extruder 1 bmg(not sure which I like more) it pushes as much flow as a standard v6 hotend but isn't for speed.

[@Pwplayssoccer]

What was the STL file for that giant Benchy

[@Adam1llion]

I am 100% noob at printing. If someone new does these setting will things still work? Or depending on what you want to print needs different settings?

[@MAGAMAN]

Speed up your prints by reducing the quality. What a genus.

[@Tattedeuc]

What version of cura do you have to say the price of the print

[@xnnocence]

how much do you usually heat up your nozzle for PLA if the build time is longer than 5 hours?

[@kiwigeeknz]

Now I want to know if a full size benchy is sea worthy!

[@Nine-Signs]

Technically speaking, if the parts are welded well externally and internally, it should be, but I would imagine given how buoyant it would be, you will need to add weight to keep it stable else it will sit too high in the water and roll over at the first wave.

[@harriusk4u]

the bigger they are, the more defects they have. When I was beginner, I preferred a big printing machine. But it comes out disaster when printing big objects. I'll plan to pick a small machine with precise printing detail.