STOP DOING THIS TO YOUR CAR IN WINTER!

[@CookieDAce]

In my car Audi A3 8pa petrol from 2009) it is actually recommended to idle the engine until the revs settle. At startup it's going to about 1200 rpm and after 40-60 seconds it drops to normal the normal 800 in winter time. During summer it is usually about 20-30 seconds. But that only happens if the engine is off for longer, for example over night. As far as I know it is designed to do that to warm up the catalyst an lubricate the engine and the turbo. After the rpm drop on the usual 800 rpm, I drive off and keep the rpm around 2000 until the coolant is at the normal temperature and additional 10 minutes for the oil to get to the right temperature aswell.

[@Armanos99]

Well, think about it - if you start driving immediately, without waiting for the revs to settle, you will give the engine 1200-1500 revs or more continuously, which will heat up the cat etc much quicker. Isn't it better?

[@CookieDAce]

@Armanos99 As far as I know the higher starting revs are by design to warm up the catalyst and to lubricate the engine and turbo. The lubricateing is more important to me. I use that time to bring my stuff into the car, start my playlist and google maps.😄

[@AlmostLastJedi]

I have remote start on my 3.0 straight 6 diesel, in these winter months I regularly start my car about 10 mins before I get there, and it’s nice and warm.

[@andywillis9701]

in cold temps oil still needs about 40 to 90 seconds to reach optimal "cold" viscosity.

[@garydyke1]

You want to be able to see through the windscreen and rear view mirror. When its minus temps thats like 5-10 mins minimum for the ice to defrost and de-misting to take place ......

[@GeorgeAusters]

Much quicker just to pour some warm water over your car and then drive once you can see a tiny gap in your windscreen or just stick your head out the window to see👌🏻

[@colin-hanlon]

@@GeorgeAustersI doubt the police would look favourably at you if you are driving with your head out the window as your screen hasn’t demisted.

[@walkingguy6409]

@@GeorgeAusterswarm water creates a black ice risk for the next person who walks past where your car was parked

[@nuicecancer9829]

@@GeorgeAusterslmao warm water if it’s minus temps can explode your window 🤦‍♂️

[@nonsheep5823]

I use boiling water and rev to limiter as soon as I get into the car would advise everybody on this post to do it, cock suckers

[@johnchadbone]

I always let my oil warm a little and get to where it needs to be before driving, done it for years, never a problem

[@TURBO-AUTIST]

piston rings are the biggest wear item at cold temperatures and the longer you let your engine idle at low temperature the worse the wear is. oil temp is also very important for them. you don't really get any temperature into the engine block or the oil while idling at -5 degrees. you also don't have to push the car while it's cold to get it up to temp or anything. same goes for setting off. wait a few second for the oil pressure to build and the oil to reach the important places in the engine. just driving at normal speed without putting stress on the engine is enough. great video btw.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Exactly… Spot on!

[@michel3777]

For my BM of 235000 km I took the principle of starting is waiting a good 5 minutes before doing the first turns of the wheel I don't think the engine will wear out faster on the contrary he tells me thank you lol

[@steveng5503]

I start my m57 and let idle for no more than a couple of mins before setting off. Drive “economically” until oil temps are on their way up. Likewise when parking up, allow idle a min or two before engine off. I do this regardless of season. Have owned a number of diesel bmw variants over last 25 years.

[@Scottishscruffybikertriestofix]

Great video to those who are mechanically naive. My 1991 1.6 Golf still had a carburettor.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Yes, some cars had carburettors until the late 90s but most were fuel injection. The late carb engines were much more sofisticated, had automatic chokes and didn't require the same warm up periods

[@Ponciky]

some winters we have -20 C or lower in the winter, there is no way i would drive without giving it a few good minutes to do its thing

[@GeorgeAusters]

You can let it idle if you wish but you definitely don’t need to.. your engine will get warmer quicker if you drive it straight away

[@steve_and_lolas_hikes]

I wouldn't buy a car from you then 😂

[@Armanos99]

Regarding scraping windows with engine idling - BMW diesels have a nice electric defrost heater which does its job in 30-60 seconds, at least E90 diesels have it. So I never idle my engine even if the windows are frozen up (in my climate that's a possibility from November till April in the mornings). I just scrape them clean, turn on the engine, turn on windscreen defrost, and drive off. Never had a problem.

[@simonh870]

I usually start the engine, switch on the heated seats and the rear window whilst I scrape the ice from the windows. The trouble with doing that on a diesel is that the fumes make you choke. If the windows are clear I will drive straight away.

[@mcplutt]

What fumes? No DPF? 😊

[@simonh870]

@@mcplutt Diesel fumes are bad DPF or no DPF. In fact there is an argument saying that DPF equipped cars are worse because they are not 100% effective and the particles which do get though are larger to penetrate further into the lungs.

[@mcplutt]

@@simonh870 They have a catalytic converter too. And some even have DEF/SCR. Luckily not my 2013 E70 :-)

[@duncandehulst2016]

Normally i always just drove away, but now i have a bmw 335i and thought might as well atleast give it a moment to get oil flowing everywhere, but it does make sense! That there is not persee a problem with starting and driving away

[@Mayorrans_Garage]

Maybe just us car/mechanically minded people, thought this was quite obvious! Only time I leave it idling is to clear the ice and wait until I can physically see haha. Great explanation for those unaware!

[@GeorgeAusters]

Agreed!

[@miguelvega7769]

My 2006 FX45 V8, 2007 FX35 V6, 2000 Q45 here in the US it’s mandatory for it to warm up during the winter, especially when I went to Japan and went to the factory where most VQs were made from, also it depends on the manufacturer, most folks never owned an Infiniti let alone a V8,

[@tomlipscomb2211]

I live in Luxembourg ands it’s a €45 fine to warm your car stationary. Although it’s a €75 fine to drive down the street with ice on your screen. Still cheaper than building a garage. 😅

[@sallyheylen9812]

I recommend putting a mains powered fan heater in the car for 10 minutes to clear all the frosted windows and warm the interior. Then you drive off straight away.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Would be a nice option to have!

[@mcplutt]

@@GeorgeAusters Most of my cars have had this option since the 80's 😊Just plug it in, and it heats up the engine (230V 300-500W engine block or coolant hose heater), and a 230V 1200-1900W cabin heater. And of course many cars in Norway have a Webasto auxilary diesel parking heater, so no need for a mains outlet. My 2013 E70 came without any of this, so I will install a Defa bluetooth 230V warm-up kit with a battery tender. The kit has an external mounted 300W engine block heater element and a 1400W cabin heater. So the need for idling to defrost the windows should end 🙂 And the battery will always be topped up when connected overnight.

[@sallyheylen9812]

Sorry, I meant a 3KW domestic fan heater

[@vladandrei51]

Each to its own but I always wait until my oil temps get up to at least 12-15C. It's not the same thing driving around when oil temps are 0C or 90C

[@christos881]

Agreed but I like getting into a warm car in the winter.

[@GeorgeAusters]

It’ll get warm quickly if you drive it, it’ll take a long time sitting there idling

[@Armanos99]

Maybe I am overdoing it, but I never turn on cabin heating on my E90 318d (M47) before my coolant temp reaches something like 80C, which is like the last 1/3 of my commute. It is short, 10 miles one way; yes, I am freezing, but at least my engine stays warm and healthy.

[@poppydogz]

Opened a can of worms up here aint ya George 🤣

[@GeorgeAusters]

I’m waiting for people to tell me I’m wrong 👌🏻

[@XENONEZZ2]

Rule number 1 is to only drive off when all glass is clear. Driving off prematurely with limited visibility makes you a danger to yourself, your passengers, and everyone else on the road. If you need to start the engine and wait for the glass to clear.....do so..!!.

[@JohnWalkden-c7j]

The N54 has a variable red line on the rev counter as a guide for max recommended RPM. Of course you don’t rev it up to that, but when that reaches its normal position after 5-10 minutes you know it’s up to temperature.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Yep, same on a lot of BMWs.. Makes me laugh when people refuse to drive it at all until that red line increases though!

[@realmusicreallife]

I leave it for around 30seconds to let oil fully pump round engine then i drive slowly till oil temp is up to norm operating temperature

[@Austria002]

I have a toyota-hybrid. If i start it on a cold morning its not idleling on low rpm, rpm actually go up in order to warm up and charge the battery. Its a software-thing and there is no difference as if i would drive off straight away. Wheareas it gets the heating running while im scratching ice from my windshield.

[@simonandvickicalkin5032]

When you want the ice off your windscreen, have the warm air blowing into the car not on the windscreen as then all your windows are defrosted not just the windscreen. It might take a minute or two longer but it's much safer when driving. Turn on the rear window defrost as well.

[@rscosworthfan]

i use lukewarm water too to defrost

[@XKsavX666]

Hi George, which repair manuals are good for bmw f11 520d SE?

[@GandyGamingHD]

I have a 123d coupe of the same generation as yours, in the morning I start it up, give it 30 seconds to a minute to allow oil pressure to build and to allow it to circulate and then I set off. There’s no need to leave a diesel any longer than that because they really don’t heat up due to their efficiency. The only time I give it a bit longer is when it’s very, very cold and it’s slightly misfire-y until it has become smooth.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Oil pressure literally takes 2 seconds to build on the N47 engine mate.. If it takes you 30 seconds then you have some serious problems

[@GandyGamingHD]

@ mines fine it builds fine, like I say just to allow it to circulate. Again no longer than 30 seconds. As long as it takes me to whack the seated heat on and pick me music🤣

[@benjamintchang3923]

Hmm. It seems like people have conflicting opinions about this... I will say though, am definitely in the camp of not pushing my car too hard before it's up to operating temperature (so, for the E46, exactly midway on the gauge). Living in a colder climate, it's often nice to just idle for a bit and let the interior + heated seats warm up though :)

[@GeorgeAusters]

When its really cold, I jump in and start driving asap to get the heating warmer quicker

[@benjamintchang3923]

@@GeorgeAusters :). I am curious about your E46, in another video you said it has a V12 inside of it?? That's crazy lol

[@TurboTimsWorld]

Good point about idle speeds is the car uses so little fuel it does not get hot. As I do a MOT I can often have a car drop temp during the smoke or even CAT test. Yes there are times where you have to wait for the screen to de mist but put the heater on recirculate to reheat any cabin air. And like you said a modern car start it, put your belt on turn the radio down is way plenty of time although on a Friday night I leave work so fast that the first 300yrds are on the starter motor!

[@GeorgeAusters]

😂

[@simaesthesia]

Top advice, man! Oil pressure is the key, so revs = pressure. Just start and drive. As a point of interest, my last Rover Mini handbook actually stated to start and drive and not to "warm it up" and that was an A series (without EFI or computer - last of the pure carbs)! PS Re turbos, only thing I used to do is idle it after a bez, but nowadays (like your BMW Mini) there's often an automated, computer controlled cool down system (i.e. on the Mini the auxiliary water pump that keeps running after one turns the engine off to keep to coolant circulating).

[@GeorgeAusters]

Very interesting.. I’m guessing they may have had a MAF sensor of sorts as they were post 1985?

[@simaesthesia]

@@GeorgeAusters It had Lambda sensor (and CAT) etc. Dunno how much "unburnt" fuel may have been a risk, so driving asap would maybe mitigate that?

[@simaesthesia]

I say it didn't have a "computer" but it my memory is faded and sense says that there must've been some form of ECU or what would be the point of the lambda sensor? Got me on one now ... going to have to do some homework. 🤣

[@GeorgeAusters]

@@simaesthesia yes I’d imagine it would have an ECU of sorts

[@aciddiver1978]

Fuel injection was introduced in mainstream cars about 1992-93, not 85. And then often simpler systems like monoinjection.

[@GeorgeAusters]

BMW has been using fuel injection since the 70s

[@markymark7200]

As a former mechanic your engine is more than capable of ticking over when cold without damaging itself . I dont know where you get this stuff from..🙄

[@GeorgeAusters]

That’s not the point I’m trying to make. The point I’m trying to make is, you don’t need to leave your engine idling when cold, it will take longer to get upto temp and thus more wear will occur

[@tomstech4390]

@@GeorgeAusters Except oil can protect even at low temperatures hence the viscosity rating, *especially* at low loads like idle. the alternative is not having the engine off and just not using it. Starting it cold and using it straight away creates more wear than leaving it at low load to warm up, Edit: also the engine warming up give time for fluids in connected items like the transmission to warm up, obviously that doesn't mean you can drive it as normal straight way, but its better than not.

[@MrSkalaberg]

@@GeorgeAusters the video is titled 'STOP DOING THIS TO YOUR CAR IN WINTER!'... your not suggesting people dont need to, your suggesting it's harmful.. which it isnt if you need to defrost the car for 5 mins before you drive off.

[@AlmostLastJedi]

@@tomstech4390I’ve been remote starting my 3.0 diesel 430d about 10 mins before I walk out of work, I’ve got into my head that it will be safer for the engine to be driven straight away if it’s had chance to warm up and the oil to get where it needs to. Is this a good thing to do? It’s all part of my Pandora security, it still remains locked and immobilised when it’s started and will automatically turn off after exactly 15 mins if I don’t get there.

[@-sargntclashroyaleandmore-491]

What most people also forget is to let the engine idle for a bit before shutting it off... this helps to cool the turbos down

[@GeorgeAusters]

Yes, this too!

[@steve_and_lolas_hikes]

No need if you drive the last quarter mile or so off boost.

[@KovalenkoYT]

If I move my gasoline car without waiting for it to warm up it dies in the first few meters. And it is a car from the first decade of the century…

[@ademineshat]

This is the First time I dont agree 😅 what about the transmission? I think it is better to let it run at least 3minutes especially in winter and go slow.

[@mlgmounted9599]

Warming the engine and car for couple minutes is a thing. Some people live in area with harsh winters.Idling is not damaging your engine. But driving cold engine and revving it by mistake can/will damage your engine. Basically whole point of people saying you should not warm your engine confronts basic principles of how internal combustion engine is made.

[@GeorgeAusters]

@@mlgmounted9599 Do they know why they’re doing it though? The colder the climate, the LESS you want your engine to be idling cold

[@mlgmounted9599]

Idling cold is bad only for diesels( nobody stops you from revving the engine up tp 1500rpm at this stage) and only if you "choke" it on the road, give it some revvs warm it will be perfectly fine. I could talk for hours explaining this. Every good engineer will tell you that warming it up is a must

[@mlgmounted9599]

@@GeorgeAusters Just to mention one thing, ( talking about diesels) Diesel head is meant to be bolted on the block in the room with air temperature at least 16 degrees celcium. You know why? Cuz it wont seat evenly on the block and gasket will leak or be damaged soon. No manual from manufacturer will tell you this. Other case, for example you have your engine resleeved, what could go wrong? Factory sleeves are installed at the stage of block casting and sleeve itself have ribbed surface to the block, while new sleeves installed by sliding them after freezer in the hot block, which is in the first place is not ideal but what option you have, sleeves and engines are made with a different metals, and they transfer heat differently, so as cold. And here is you, saying you should not warm your engine, cuz idling is bad lol, man can damage his engine having sleeves really hot while whole block is still cold as ice driving it ( on load ) sleeves can crack beacuse of this

[@brycebrown1]

I agree, contentious subject according to comments... wow 😮. Think about N52 (etc) lifter tick.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Exactly!

[@sandijsbartuss4048]

Hi Goerge Been watching your vidoes for a while and done some simple fixes so far on my car from watching them. I have 2010 320d with n47 engine, i have bad idle on cold starts Feels like car is shaking, after driving for about 10 min it goes away and it works perfect and there are no fault codes. How do you think what could it be ? Could dorty injector cause it ? But then shouldn't it throw code about misfire ?

[@GeorgeAusters]

Injector

[@stevenfoleyuk9404]

Wrong advise , idle a modern engine is harmless . They advise us to drive off to save fuel . Nothing to do with engine damage . Oil pressure will be sufficient at Idle .

[@GeorgeAusters]

You’re missing my point.. My point is that you don’t NEED to sit idling before you drive off, not that you CAN’T do it.

[@theoutsider6191]

The driving off is suggested in order to warm things like the transmission fluids and other components at a simimlar rate to the engine oils and collants such that when you cane it those too will be warm and not too viscous when you apply the pressure to the systems. So on my 240i there are high initial revs on start up and you should not drive off during that period, which settles in about a minute or two to normal revs at idle according to recommended practice.

[@XENONEZZ2]

You do need to sit idling until it's safe to drive....driving with limited visibility is not safe.​@GeorgeAusters

[@theoutsider6191]

My M240i has high initial revs of about 1000 rpm, then drops back down to 650rpm or thereabout, the wisdom is not to drive the car until the revs stabilise at normal idle level, then drive off straight away. It usually takes a minute or two max to do so even when cold like this week has been. The driving off is suggested in order to warm things like the transmission fluids and other components at a simimlar rate to the engine oils and collants such that when you cane it those too will be warm and not too viscous when you apply the pressure to the systems.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Not sure where you have got that information from but you don’t have to wait for fast idle to finish

[@octavianmihaila1922]

Hello! Today I installed an EGR delete kit on my N47. After that I noticed that the water temperature no longer rises above 85 degrees. Does it have anything to do with the EGR delete or is it just a coincidence that my thermostat failed right now?

[@GeorgeAusters]

Should get to 87 degrees on the N47

[@octavianmihaila1922]

@ Before I installed the EGR delete kit I had around 89 degrees. But after installation I have 84-85 degrees. I'm wondering if it could be related to the EGR gas cooler or if it's just a coincidence and my thermostat just broke. From your experience, has there been any change in your water temperature after installing the kit?

[@joeyjones6638]

Hi George in your videos when you were changing oil and coolant you did wait for the engine to get to temp on idel or am I wrong pal

[@GeorgeAusters]

Correct, that’s for a different reason; so that the thermostat opens and I can drain the coolant properly👍🏻

[@joeyjones6638]

@GeorgeAusters when I do that I usually take it for a 10 minute spine

[@ohenryable]

And what about the piston slapping? And operating temperature? And the turbo's lubrication? Sorry, mate, I will keep my diesel idle for a couple of minutes before revving.

[@1hd3szfgrdm13]

De-frost, de-mist, go typically. Or as is my case, try to start, swear, take the other car.

[@GeorgeAusters]

😂

[@karmenu]

Oil pressure light?? I never got an oil pressure light when starting the car. At least not in my 1 series.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Yeah you typically don’t see it on BMWs.. you’ll get a light when your oil pressure is too low though

[@andyhunt457]

I idled my car for 4 hrs the other day...i forgot while moving cars around...ooops....its up for sale now 😂😂

[@GeorgeAusters]

😂

[@AndMob99]

Does bimmerlink remove airbag error? Do I need the paid version to do it? Thanks

[@GeorgeAusters]

No idea

[@AndMob99]

@GeorgeAusters any tool I can use to remove the airbag error?

[@karmenu]

No it doesn't

[@GeorgeAusters]

@@AndMob99the one linked in my description is what I use for everything

[@AndMob99]

@@GeorgeAusters thanks

[@Uber_Soldat]

Isn’t it extra bad to run a diesel engine on idle? I think I heard that diesel engines with the higher compression lets some diesel past the rings and mix to the oil, especially when idling.

[@GeorgeAusters]

Yes, it’s bad to leave all engines idling excessively

[@mlgmounted9599]

No, if you are not choking your diesel on the road and give it a rev it'll be perfectly fine. If your arent lazy and can stay in a cold car you better warm it by revving it up to 1500rpm for couple minutes

[@jeremycornishjc]

What gets damaged while idlling ????

[@GeorgeAusters]

Most engine damage occurs while an engine is cold

[@peep25100]

I let my car idle until I have cleaned the windows. With lower temps than -20°c it will take quite a long time to get them clean. Even when using some liquid to get ice off quicker I have sometimes stopped after driving few meters, because breath foged up the extremely cold windows.

[@GeorgeAusters]

@@peep25100 pour warm water over the windows and then put the windows down, that’s what I do👍🏻

[@peep25100]

@GeorgeAusters well this winter I have working ac, so maybe I can keep windows not to fog up when they are still cold. I need to see how much water to take to clear windows. When it is over -30 I don't think pouring water on the window is a good idea. Then it just might freeze instantly when touching the window.

[@ally1534]

Have let my 2002 e46 (petrol model)idle in the winter to clear the windows for the past 19 years with no problem don’t know where you are getting your information from

[@GeorgeAusters]

I never said there was a problem with letting your windows clear.. I let my windows clear myself if I cannot see. I’m talking about people who sit there waiting for their oil to reach operating temperature.

[@biscuithead0]

Usually im waiting for the MRS to get her arse in the car

[@GeorgeAusters]

😂

[@davehughes6501]

Nothing warms up an engine quicker than sticking 20psi of boost through it. Get ya foot down

[@GeorgeAusters]

😂

[@AndyPipkin-dj8sy]

WRONG let it tick over the ECU will do its job - oil pressure is way enough at idle old or new

[@GeorgeAusters]

I’m not arguing you don’t have enough oil pressure at idle

[@dracony7649]

@@GeorgeAusters makes no point what u saying the engine is designed to have good oil presure at idle and high revs🙂

[@GeorgeAusters]

I said in the video that you should drive as soon as you have oil pressure. I never said you won't have oil pressure at idle.

[@AndyPipkin-dj8sy]

@@GeorgeAusters the oil pump works at 40percent at idle - at idle it takes a few moment to reach the head, maybe slower in the cold but at idle the pump is working - to start it and floor it cold is a problem as the oil is not fully circulated and the metal fatigue with quick changes - 5 mins idle steady away for a 20 mins the ECU will do the rest in terms of mixtures

[@GeorgeAusters]

@@AndyPipkin-dj8sy You’re clearly not understanding what I’m saying so I’ll just leave it at that lol

[@ally1534]

You have just contradicted yourself by saying you let it idle whilst scraping the window. & defrosting it. Older petrol cars had a choke to produce more petrol and less air when col so surely they would do more damage to your engine

[@GeorgeAusters]

I don’t scrape the windows, I start the engine up and get the demister on and then pour warm water on the windscreen. Obviously you can’t drive until you can see where you’re going 😂

[@ally1534]

But your still letting your car idle

[@3rdbanwavey121]

I drive it after 2 minuets of idle let the AC warm up after 5 minuets of driving

[@GeorgeAusters]

Why do you wait 2 minutes before you drive?

[@3rdbanwavey121]

@GeorgeAusters tbh I don't know I would of thought it's better for the engine because when it's cold outside my car idle is at 1 and then comes down to about 700 or 800 then I drive it 🤷🏻

[@nicolaheyes2575]

You are so not right

[@GeorgeAusters]

I so am right

[@davidcrawford8583]

Tank driving lol

[@Grant-H2O]

Why you would let the car warm up before driving it? So you don’t freeze your ass off driving it. It has nothing to do with the environment or life of the car. If you drive an engine cold? More wear on the engine. Drive an engine hot? More wear and damage to the engine. Drive an engine at operating temperature? Cmon man

[@GeorgeAusters]

Your car will warm up very quickly when you start driving it 😁

[@Grant-H2O]

You’ll still be freezing inside of it!

[@GeorgeAusters]

@@Grant-H2O You won’t lol.. Set climate controls to 20 degrees and Auto and it’ll warm up as efficiently as possible.. It’s much warmer inside of a car than outside of 1 too!

[@Grant-H2O]

@@GeorgeAusters If you cant understand that its cold inside the car idk how else to explain this to you. The inside temperature of the car is -30 degrees. Inside my house is heated, the car will take about 15 mins to warm the inside of the car before i enter it. If a baby was with you, would you put your baby in a car seat at -30 below zero?? I hope you understand now that i broke it down into bite size chunks

[@2Ulive]

😂😂😂

[@Hancock_nl]

Webasto ☺

[@Scottishscruffybikertriestofix]

Or a Chinese Diesel Heater, many people rate them.

[@d.m.3259]

bla bla bla

[@FSqu]

Total rubbish, poor advice. High quality oils with the correct viscosity rating, ecu controlled engine parameters etc etc

[@GeorgeAusters]

So you think you do need to sit there idling for 10 minutes before driving away?

[@FSqu]

@GeorgeAusters I think you are misleading people little bit. A freezing engine that warms gently is far better than someone jumping in, driving off without a care and using the rev range from cold. Far better to advise slow gentle warming, low load and low revs if you have to use the car straight away when it's freezing cold. How long you wait, how you drive for the first 10 mins until at operating temperature is far better advice. So I think it's about common sense. Idling until atvleast mid range warm is better then thrashing a stone cold engine. Idling on the drive for ever is daft, of course. I think you have missed the practical middle ground on your advice. If you can warm on idle for several minutes when it sub zero then do. If you have to drive straight away be very gentle, simple mechanical sympathy logic, in my opinion. Anyway....great videos by the way !!!!! Just not this one my friend, in my opinion. And if you put yourself out there your gonna get criticism and disagreements says me, the armchair mechanic who is putting off doing an oil change on our f23 220d cos its too cold haha !! Keep up the good work!!

[@GeorgeAusters]

@FSqu I never said to jump in and rev it out. I said to get in and start driving normally below 2-3k RPM

[@FSqu]

@GeorgeAusters I think there is intelligent opinion here and views differ. I prefer to warm fully, defrost and demist. I have an n5730d 2012 e70 on100k miles, ravenol vmp ll04 oil every c3-4k miles and no oil cosumption, no smoke ever, clean oil filters when changed and drives like new and is used to tow 1.8 tonnes.I think actually it's the holistic approach that keeps a car healthy Not one thing. When you do everything correctly and some think fanatically the cars will go forever.