Stop Using Commercial Patterns, Learn Pattern Drafting Instead

Have you ever wanted to throw a project across the room? Has the sizing of a commercial pattern ever let you down? Are you tired of having to make a muslin every time you make a new design? Are you frustrated trying to find pattern styles to your liking? It's time to break up with commercial patterns!
Get yourself a working bodice block and let yourself free.
Draft your own from "scratch": • Drafting the Basic Pat...
Make one from a dress pattern: • A Lazy Bodice Block Pa...
Make one from a Fitting Shell pattern:
Some Fitting Shell and Block Patterns:
B5627 Fitting Shell: somethingdelig...
B5628 Plus Size fitting shell: somethingdelig...
M2718 Fitting Shell: somethingdelig...
V 1004 Fitting Shell: somethingdelig...
Bootstrap Custom Pattern: patterns.boots...
Pattern String Codes Patterns: pattern.stringc...
Pattern Lab Custom Patterns: patternlab.lon...
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/P... (not sponsored)
More from me?
Want to help me continue making more videos? Listen to me ramble on in a monthly podcast? Watch an additional project video each month? Peruse my Patreon here: / theclosethistorian
Blog: theclosethistor...
Instagram: / theclosethistorian
Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/s...
Pinterest: / bmesposito
Tumblr: / theclosethistorian
Beauty Instagram: / thehistoriansvanity
Beauty Channel: / thehistoriansvanity
But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Need to make your own blocks? I have gone ahead and made a playlist of all of my sloper and block related videos, which can be found here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZaslamLZcxnqs0 And in the description above there are links directly to several fitting shell patterns and other similar options!

[@mmybickers]

FINALLY, someone who gets it -- I've been sewing for 30 years, but I have such a non-standard shaped body that commercial patterns are just infinitely frustrating. None of it was fun or enjoyable as a hobby. As a result, even though I love garments, the vast majority of my sewing has been non-garment textiles, creative use of stretch, and a few blocks I basically drafted from brute force. (I knew I should learn SOMEWHERE but never quite stumbled into the right group versus wasting time with FBA and fiddly piddly crap like that.) Bless you. You are the lightbringer.

[@lunarsma8446]

Thank you!

[@sandycheney660]

I have subscribed to your channel, for "later reference" because I knew there was something great here. I am in the process of changing over an adult child's room into a sewing room, where we hope to make dress forms and start real sewing projects, not just wishes and dreams. Today, out of the blue, THIS video came up in my feed, and it was the perfect "rant" as you call it! It was the most inspiring video for me. I have a very odd, body shape, that looks good in nothing. I will be working on that, but in the mean time, I can be learning how to make the slope and block patterns, both brand new terms for me. I needed this motivation! Thank you for the playlist, I will save it right now!

[@maryraab9066]

Thank you very much! I really appreciate your "sewing school"!

[@kimbuddha4812]

Thank you!

[@AshLG]

This is so weirdly inspirational I feel like I could do anything. Make a block. Start a fire. Design my own clothes. Rob a bank. The sky's the limit honestly

[@khaxjc1]

Thank you. I needed the endorphins laughing at your comment brought.

[@phreakli]

Instructions unclear, burned down a bank while being dressed faboulously

[@amarisjoseph]

Maybe don't start fire or rob abank

[@olygal]

You can do it! Keep going 🤙🏽

[@ategetho]

Make a block, so you can design your own fireproof bank robbing clothing?????

[@kjorndog]

I'm a fashion school dropout and my pattern making teacher was such a beast that she completely scared me out of pattern making. Two years later I'm only just now realizing it doesn't have to be scary because nobody is going to give me a D for using the wrong color pen on my labels or drawing my pattern on the cross grain of the PAPER. The program is actually getting shut down next year because too many people failed or dropped out 🤔

[@esteecervantes4265]

Where

[@ellenrittgers990]

I had a Home Ec teacher like that in high school - I swore I’d never pick up a needle and thread again! Fortunately, I got a summer job in a fabric store, and the materials themselves seduced me!🤣

[@bellemusecore]

so be reassured you're not the one in the wrong. love that you're still pursuing it!

[@Stettafire]

My high school had a textiles class, and no one took it for their GCSEs because the teacher was such a demon. A class of complete beginners and equipment that never worked properly with a teacher who outright refused to answer any questions and would resort to shouting at the mere notion of a student sat struggling to thread their needle. Not to mention to rediculous amount of "theory" that was either too simple to be useful or just outright misinformed. It's poor quality classes like that which make people think sewing is "hard" or make people think sewing is "boring" or "stressful".

[@ellenrittgers990]

@@Stettafire You are so right! It’s appalling that so many people have similar experiences… where do they find these gorgons to “teach “?!

[@gittevandevelde2208]

ok but your gold eyeshadow with the gold flowers in your dress really caught my eye. 100% sure on purpose but with this you have confirmation you made a good choice.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! This one indie brand makes THE BEST shimmers, www.jdglowcosmetics.com/collections/galaxy-eyeshadows/products/copy-of-anomaly-galaxy-1

[@mmybickers]

It's a whole look, and she's sourcing shimmers for us, too? Icon.

[@TheAlyshao]

Love the gold. Love your syntax, vocabulary, and cadence

[@barbarabotting5163]

@TheAlysho yes! was abt to say the same!

[@audrablue515]

Your look is absolutely stunning! Love the gold eyeshadow so, so much.

[@brinbrawner6101]

As a woman who has broad shoulders, a wide rib cage, wide hips, and very little in the chest area, creating my own blocks that I know will fit me sounds FAR simpler than trying to figure out how to modify every pattern I try. Even as a very new sewist, drafting my own patterns still sounds like less work 😂

[@summersun6536]

That's exactly what I feel. The only difference is I am big-busted, small-waisted, and have a short torso and broad hips. I bought some patterns, but I gave up pretty fast since I do kind of panic as soon as I see all the lines on the pattern I don't even understand. 😄

[@JulianneKing]

This is where I'm at now. Looking at the pattern I've cut and taped with like 7 different adjustments like why did I pay $20 and have this printed at a copy shop

[@thebookwyrmslair6757]

​@@summersun6536 You and I are pretty similar shape! Any advice? I've hand-sewn and mended a few things, but I'm a newbie at actually creating. 😅

[@summersun6536]

@@thebookwyrmslair6757@thebookwyrmslair6757 I've been hand-sewing in my teenage years, bought a machine in 2019 out of frustration, and haven't touched it since because I am always afraid to screw up😀 (what, in fact, is quite unlikely since I also managed to build/customize myself a bed). I have a slow pace in sewing/constructing since at first I educated myself about tissue, because you need to take that into consideration when making a pattern. Then I started to learn piece by piece about pattern making (still a way to go), but I feel ready now to really start constructing after I have drawn some design ideas. I was so unsatisfied after I joined so many online groups of sewists only to see they all sew the things I find so boring (and unflattering). Therefore I started to look for inspiration wherever I can find it and watch out for clothes, that flatter my proportion. I recently found a fashion channel on YT for girls like us with a short torso. Now I can see, why all the patterns I saw never felt right to sew, they would have been a waste of time and money. I for sure knew about proportion when buying clothes, but I totally forgot that applies to sewing, too. If you are open to it we can dive deeper into that. I would love to. 🙂Do you have any Insta or Facebook or sth like to get in touch? I save all my ideas/inspiration and sewing/construction hacks on Pinterest, we could even share a Pinwall and help and motivate each other. I actually could need that, since my perfectionism stands in my way sometimes.😀 Btw. we seem to have even more in common, as I can see from your nickname🤩🤩.

[@ElSings]

I have literally the exact same body type lol

[@valeriewade3688]

Since watching your videoes, pattern sales in my town have plumetted. However, the sales of brown paper and sticky tape is at an all time high. (from the only sewist in my town) Cheers

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I too go through quite a bit of sticky tape 😅

[@irishime]

Our Dollar Tree had a massive box of sticky tape. They didn't bother with putting it on the shelves.

[@nooorlangen1909]

What is sticky tape for?

[@bridgetrsews]

@@nooorlangen1909 sellotape used for taping paper pieces together.

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@heyima2302]

I had actually started by trying to find out how to make my own patterns only to be completely discouraged by all of my results! They were going: you should only do this after you I have a lot of knowledge, and you shouldn’t do this as a beginner, you shouldn’t do it. So stumbling across this was really encouraging because I kept running into discouraging things!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Plenty of people learn to sew and pattern draft at the same time, you totally CAN do it I say!

[@rpb638183]

And how do you progress from a beginner to experienced? You have to practice and if that means your finished stuff doesn’t look right or fit right why would you even attempt to make more clothes. I’m a size 24, hate it but that’s another story. At that size my proportions are all over the place. In addition to large boobs, big hips, and thick waist I also have a big poochy stomach. Even correct number size patterns don’t fit. I’m so excited at the potential of clothes that fit better I will figure out the block method.

[@Stettafire]

I'm of the opinion that opinions that start with "you shouldn't do this if you are a beginner" should be utterly diusregarded and dismissed. You learn by DOING THINGS

[@shalinitahiliani5325]

There was a whole enterprise of commercial paper patterns already. Then came digital patterns and revolutionized the home sewing industry. Most people are looking for good results right off the bat, but ignore the fact that we don't come in sample sizes. Nothing ever fits out of the envelope, and you either end up discouraged and give up or learn to make adjustments to each pattern. I love this approach to make a block and adjust the design. Bianca is a breath of fresh air! I made my block sometime last year and have been using it with amazing results! You can do it!

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@celebkiriedhel]

Back when my Grandma was young (early 1900's) sewing and domestic science was taught in school. So a lot of vintage patterns were written knowing that. Its a bit sad that we aren't doing this nowadays.

[@panacheluxury4262]

I agree!

[@rd6203]

Yes! Let's bring life skills back to schools! Sewing, cooking, driving! Screw fancy maths, teach finances! Drop false history and bring back social etiquette! Don't teach tennis, teach gardening! I recently acquired two vintage sewing textbooks. I was thrilled but also a little appalled by the introductory chapter of one of them, which was basically about "being pretty" which *¡should not be considered a life skill!* in my opinion

[@celebkiriedhel]

@@rd6203 Vintage skills, not vintage values. And one doesn't need to drop any subject to add a class, just reduce the number of hours in one of the lesser subjects - like assembly or sport!

[@panacheluxury4262]

@@rd6203, I definitely agree on bringing back life skills in schools. These were things that sustained people, especially in hard times, because if they lost a job or needed to make extra money, they could sew, cook, do some brick laying. carpentry, etc. to feed themselves and their families. I do not know whose bright idea it was to remove these vital trades from the school curriculum, which were also designed to make one a well-rounded person.

[@Noirellion]

I had sewing/woodworking in school for 7 years, from 9 years old to 16 years old. We had one semester of each up until 13 years old; and then we could choose which one we wanted to do for each semester. This was in Sweden in mid 2OOO. Politicians sometimes debate wether sewing/woodworking shold stay or go (to make more room for eg Math, Swedish or English). Some people say the sewing/woodworking is a waste of time, while others point out that it teaches hand-eye dexterity that is needed for a lot of professions, from barista to electrician to surgeon. It also teaches people how to repair and fix things (or maybe even make things from scrach).

[@morgankilkenny1895]

"Every time you have a new pattern, you have a new hassle on your hands." This, this is why I've stalled in my sewing. I know I'm late to this party, but I'm so grateful to have found your channel just this week. Every time I think about sewing a pattern in my stash with fabrics I've been hoarding for over a decade, the "but maybe it won't fit" aspect of it destroys all of my motivation. Thank you for unlocking pattern drafting for me, I can't wait to dive in!

[@dazirapa]

This is the biggest stumbling block for me as an ADHD sewist. It's hard enough getting past all the bits of sewing I find boring - taping PDF patterns together, grading between sizes, tracing patterns, marking notches, cutting fabric. Then the thought of having to go through that process multiple times so I can get the fit right before I'm even ready to cut into my good fabric? UGGGGHHHHHH. No. Just no.

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@ssanderson91]

Yay! I jumped straight from zero sewing experience to drafting my own after one disaster with a reproduction vintage trouser pattern, and then watching you draft your own. I just got a book out of the library to start with, which I later bought my own copy of. Completely agree that it make so much more sense to just have your own blocks!

[@ElizabethKC1994]

What book did you use? I’ve been debating checking out pattern books

[@chipmunkred1519]

What’s the name of the book

[@ssanderson91]

It’s called ‘Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear’ by Winifred Aldrich. It’s literally just pattern cutting so it doesn’t tell you how to sew garments together. It’s a great guide to understanding how to manipulate flat shapes to make the garments you want. Recommend seeing if it’s in your local library first to make sure it’s going to give you everything you’re after! ☺️

[@chipmunkred1519]

@@ssanderson91 thank you

[@SabrinaCWB168]

@@ssanderson91 came to recommend that (earlier editions are best)! I definitely recommend beginners make scaled down paper patterns to learn how to shift darts and add style features like gathers too.

[@meaganhuculak7087]

I took a "make a custom block" class at my local sewing store specifically so I could follow your sewing tutorials! my first project was an all in one sleeve dress and it turned out fab. Lapped zipper and all! Thanks for all the inspiration!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

This makes me so happy to hear! Thank you Meagan!

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@panacheluxury4262]

"Why won't she give them to us?!" I just had to laugh at that, Bianca. Because, what Bianca is saying folks is, it is unique to your body and measurements, and once you learn this not so complicated, but amazing skill, you will see what she means. You will be able to make all the incredible designs you see on Vintage patterns to haute couture designs. Trust us on this one. Excellent job, Bianca!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

There is just this pervasive myth that pattern drafting is really super-duper hard, and it makes me sad people are too scared to try it when it's so fun 😩😅

[@panacheluxury4262]

@@TheClosetHistorian, You are so right, Bianca. There is nothing hard about it.

[@janicebackstrom7618]

You can buy a block pattern from one of your sewing pattern books McCalls, Butterick, Symplicity look for it in one of These books and yes it is commercial but who cares! Make the adjustments.

[@judyhansen6237]

@@TheClosetHistorian You make it fun! 🥰I’ve only just discovered your channel and I’m excited to start making my own!

[@graceanne596]

I really love Christopher Sartorial's videos on pattern drafting! He's very clear and concise and he has videos on almost everything needed for a full wardrobe. (Bodice, skirt, fitted blouse/dress, looser blouse/dress without darts, two-piece sleeve, and princess seam bodice/blouse, and collar/lapel.) The only things missing are pants and a regular one-piece sleeve.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I'll have to look him up!

[@lailimade]

Diane dietzel has really good pattern drafting explanations for pants on her YT.

[@dt-cx3vc]

Thank you for sharing 💖🧵🪡

[@najjee2]

Am.glad some else.loves Chris sartorial, he is amazing .I have followed him For over 7 years

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@swingularity1119]

You're the reason I learned to draft my own patterns. I've never had much luck with the fit of the big 4 patterns but after making a few mockups of my block I've had great success with my drafting. It's so worth it. For the newbies who don't have the order of operations of sewing try to find a copy of vogue sewing, it outlines how to do all of the things. PS your makeup + shirt combo is amazing

[@imamonstr]

Ohhh thanks for the suggestion of the vogue sewing ! Not a newbie but I always like to increase my knowledge of construction!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sarah! Blocks open up a whole other world of possibilities! ✨

[@Odontecete]

I 2nd and 3rd Vogue Sewing. WOW what a resource! I have 2 volumes and you can find them in thrift shops, the 2nd volume is mostly tailoring which is invaluable, but the sheer amount devoted to collars...can not be beat. If you are looking for a good overall set of books on how to do stuff--highly recommend Vogue if you have some basic knowledge.

[@callmeswivelhips8229]

Very cool!!!

[@tera_windon]

I’ve been skipping over this video for two years! And now that I’m ready to start drafting my own patterns for my clothes……I feel that I cheated myself by not watching it sooner. Bless you ❤️

[@rainh2o958]

I’m a complete beginner and feel like patterns are confusing. I looked up “sewing without patterns” and found this. I had never even heard of a block pattern before today. I’m so glad I found this! Now I’m going to check out all your other videos and get started 😊

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@jemima2879]

Drafting a pattern when I was a beginner helped me make more sense of the garment construction, where I would get confused with commercial pattern. I am now hooked.

[@croitoriafaraformule]

"Stop using commercial patterns" Amen to that! I also talk from the same dark side of pattern drafting. Been there for more than 15 years now. Still alive and well fitted.

[@Angela-un2tx]

😂😂😂 Rant baby rant!!! I freaking love it! TRUST THIS WOMAN!!!!!! She speaks the truth!

[@waterbitten]

Come for the pattern drafting, stay for all the sass and sometimes cookies!

[@wdarwiche849]

I remember I watched this 8 months ago after having a vision of me making my daughters dress ( no previous sewing experience). Since I have made 3 flower girl dresses and 2 dresses which I wore to weddings. Thank you for this video it gave me the emotional push I needed to just trust my instinct.

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@beckimeinhold]

But Bianca, you ARE the only way to get a block pattern ! 😂 You are the queen of sewing (and teaching!) knowledge!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I am merely one courtier not the queen I promise 😂

[@caitlinbenallack835]

You have had me convinced for months now that I need to work toward drafting my own patterns. My mother was a seamstress and I had a lot of beautiful clothes that fit perfectly as a child and teen. It wasn’t until I started shopping on my own that I realized that my body in no way resembles the standard measurements and proportions of clothes. As I started learning to sew, I realized that all my fit problems still applied to commercial patterns. The number of alterations I need, results in basically an entirely new pattern, so I may as well just start making my own!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Exactly, at some point it's like you have drafted a new pattern already, so might as just well draft 'em from scratch 😅

[@tinajohnston8139]

You can do it! Pattern drafting seems intimidating from the outside, but it’s a lot easier than it looks. It can be a bit of a struggle to make a block that fits you, but it’s totally worth it. Having the freedom to design your clothes however you want them, and knowing they will fit you, is an amazing experience that you can continue having forever. Go for it, folks!

[@antisocialal4799]

Agreed! Tbh, I wouldn’t even waste money on fabrics until you can make multiple outfits with only muslinJust buy a whole thing of muslin and keep going at it.

[@jeandarbyshire4391]

So glad to fave found your Chanel! I was a home economics teacher in the late 1960s. I so support the non commercialized patterns for sewing. I made a tailored business suit from a roll of brown paper. So exciting. I don’t sew anymore but I find the interest building…. Thanks for what you are doing!❤

[@dvlvd]

I made my own basic blocks after your drafting from a textbook video (I got one specific to menswear, as I am a mens) and although it was a bit of a challenge to get it right (the first pants off the pants sloper was comically large due to an error on my part) it was totally worth it. There are almost no menswear patterns worth having unless you want to wear the most basic garments and nothing else, so you actually got me excited to sew again because I'm no longer limited to the 12 patterns the commercial companies make. THANK YOU!

[@KlingonPrincess]

I have followed a blogger, A Line of Selvage for years. He is an amazing technical sewer who makes his own garments. I am always learning from him

[@MissPlaced84]

In a sewing community I belong to I keep seeing people ask for help finding a pattern for something or other. 99% of the time it's a really simple alteration to a basic top/pants/skirt. I always seems that people think I'm nuts for suggesting drafting it is actually simpler. So thanks for this.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I feel like everyone has been tricked into thinking many things are super difficult when really they can be super simple! Like when folks want to change a neckline and I'm like "just draw on whatever you like?" and no one seems to believe me 😅 Be free! Color outside the linnnnes! ✨

[@Tigertame4]

I KNOW, back in the seventies I took a tailoring class in college so I could take flat pattern design, alas my class schedule wouldn’t allow it. So NOW 47 years later I’m FINALLY able to design a pattern that FITS!!!

[@Mantuamaker]

Wow you read my mind! I had a dream, or semi-lucid thought about a pattern. I thought of turning a dress that I love into a wrap dress instead of a regular dress. Since I had a block that I struggled about two weeks to make and it really fits me, based on a commercial pattern, I had a starting point already. From there I made the dress. I recorded the process and am editing the video now. You really inspired me, and I am going to focus on dresses that are easier for people with mobility issues to have in their wardrobe. This is not meant to be an ad for my video but a huge thank you for what you have done.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I'm glad using the block to make the wrap worked for you! I love a wrap dress for sure ❤

[@elizabethstykes6263]

I had to watch this twice bc I kept getting distracted by that gorgeous eye shadow 🤩

[@annguglielmino8989]

Me too!!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! It's a shade called 365 from JDGlow who have THE BEST shimmers 🤩 www.jdglowcosmetics.com/collections/galaxy-eyeshadows/products/copy-of-anomaly-galaxy-1

[@nocchu5035]

As someone who did fashion design in London as a degree (before dropping out haha), learning to draft and make your own patterns is so rewarding. Plus it’s also pretty therapeutic, you should definitely all give it a go :)

[@stepheniemedeiros7558]

I will be making my own block, using a vintage system. I decided to give it a go, in part because of you. So thank you, fellow Coloradian, for all the great content!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Stick with it and you'll be creating all sorts of patterns in no time ❤

[@JemimaDoesASMR]

One of the first things I did when I started sewing was make a sleeve block, and I’m so grateful I happened across that so early in my sewing journey because I have no fear at all of making my own blocks now!

[@deborahf3738]

I found out about the block after buying a few patterns. Now I measure the pattern with my measurements so I know what sizes (always sizes) I need to cut, and you're right, it rarely works out. The block is so much better....thanks for your rant.

[@MoonPrincessLin]

This video is so encouraging for me!! When I first started sewing as a young teenager I drafted all my own patterns because A, I was making super specific stuff for cosplay that wasn't sold commercially and B, I was a broke teenager. I finally got back into sewing this year after a long break and thought 'everyone uses patterns, surely it must be easier right?' since my old blocks didn't fit me anymore and I didn't want to go through the process of drafting blocks again. I was very surprised to find that you have to adjust commercial patterns anyway!! Like, I was buying this because I thought it would be easier but I actually found it harder to adjust this rigid pattern to fit me. It honestly felt like I was just drafting the whole thing again. This has definitely inspired me to recreate my blocks for my current figure and just sew that way! Thank you!!

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@kvan335]

As someone with approximately 0 dollars... I've always made my own patterns. Now I have a method to actually make them work ! Thanks :)

[@latashajones3369]

I took your advice and drafted skirt, bodice, and pants blocks. I made a cute pair of shorts from my pants block. They aren’t perfect but I have learned so much on my journey. I love KZbin University. I also took a sewing class that showed me that I already had the knowledge and experience to successfully draft my own patterns. You and so many other content creators have really helped me dive into altering commercial patterns and now drafting my own. Thank you.

[@joeylittmann6866]

ok side note, besides the fact that i agree wholeheartedly with the fact that pattern drafting yourself is ELITE and the only way, this makeup look is UNREAL. 😍😍😍

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Broke out the shimmer shadows ✨

[@sonder3806]

The fact that you show what to do with blocks; creating different styled patterns starting with a block, is the entire reason I subscribed and joined your patreon. Not many show how to transform blocks into the clothes we want. So please don't stop, I greatly appreciate it. Strongly agree with your opinions on this video.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you ❤ Not going to be stopping anytime soon I promise!

[@ladyjo581]

3 agonizing weekends, indeed. But it's worth it

[@lynnettevelez676]

The issue i have with drafting my own block and working from that, is my weight and body changes often enough that i would have to adjust the block a lot. I do usually measure the pieces of commercial patterns, and adjust them to fit me better (multi sized patterns help with this a bunch). Plus my brain can't seem to translate the finished drawing to the pattern pieces lol

[@sailerspiff]

Well, my little sparkly eyed block pattern booster, Thank you! I just threw myself on my sofa , frustrated and annoyed, after my first serious session of teaching myself to make a block. And there you were the first thumbnail on my home page saying "You can do it!". I don't usually require pep talks but this was just what I needed. Thanks.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

keep at it!! It's worth it after all the pain I promise 😅

[@YourRichLifeMedia]

My grandmother used to sew without a pattern. I still do not know how she did it but I aspire to even this level of pattern drafting, even if I never get to the space of sewing without a pattern

[@EmL-kg5gn]

That’s so impressive!!! I hope you get there one day 💕

[@jonathan9798]

Perhaps she was draping?

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@garybaldwin5241]

Thank you for the wonderful pep talk. I’ve only just started sewing garments (male) and it’s going ok so far. I have learned so much from you I can’t thank you enough.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Gary!

[@TheGalactica2001]

I agree! I prefer to make my own because I started sewing because the commercial stuff never fits right

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@leisureletter2051]

I was just struggling to adjust a pattern to my size! How did you know?! 🤣 Since you insist, I will take this as a sign to make my own pattern. I have been eyeballing a few beautiful fabrics (Thanks Spoonflower, lol) and hate to keep doing a muslin every time I want to try a new pattern. So I’ll try to make my own. 🙃

[@rd6203]

You've got this! 📐✏✂️👗 I wanted to use a cheerleader emoji, but I don't have one...

[@sunandbloom.bypatricia]

Yes!! You can definitely start from absolute zero to do your own clothes. I teach pattern making and sewing, i introduce people to the sewing machine and it's the most amazing thing ever when my students see for themselves what they can do!!❤ Most are 40 years and older. I have some students that are near 70-80 years that never learnt to sew, not even a botton and they are doing their own patterns and sewing their first mock-up and it's so fantastic. Because most come to class to learn something new but mostly because they want clothes that fit them how they want. What i do suggest is you browse through some different methods of pattern making and find one that is understandable and easy to follow, because i definitely have come across some methods that are incomprehensible. Good luck to anyone that is starting to draft their first patterns!!!🤩

[@lynneozzyblackbeard]

*Smashes like button 500 times!!* I've been a lurker for a while, and I don't think I've commented before, but I will be with you on the dark side, and I'll definitely bring cookies! I've been making my own patterns for a few years after going to a class on how to make a block, and I agree with EVERYTHING you've said, making your own patterns is just. so. much. easier. than. fitting! I absolutely love your videos, and your style, and your makeup is 😍 Stay fabulous!! Lynne 😃

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lynne! Once you see the light it's hard to go back 😂✨

[@brendabijak7171]

I am an experienced seamstress, but this scares me. I would love to "level up" that would be amazing! I'm willing to give it a hard go.....but I cannot promise it will be wearable in public. Last time I saw a hamster in a sausage casing was before Covid. If you see a hamster in a sausage casing....it's me ok? Just me, no need to run.

[@yobespierre]

as a fellow hamster in a sausage casing, please don't worry. you'll get the block fitted and suddenly will have tons of fancy new clothes that fit you like a GLOVE. :D

[@rd6203]

Hamsters are cute and sausages are delicious. Therefore, fitting your own block shall make you cute and delicious! Win win win!

[@pinupplaytime300]

honestly i need to upsize my block after gaining a covid 19. so i understand

[@helenahandbasket3244]

@@pinupplaytime300 I, too, am struggling with the same thing. I have GOT to lose this extra weight! But in the meantime, yes I can make a sloper and then a block for my new normal... I don't like it, but I will manage. Still eating less than 1000 cals per day, but the scale isn't moving, yet.... sigh.

[@Marty_Makes]

I owned a dressmaking business for years… I NEVER found a pattern that perfectly fit anyone. It’s definitely easier once you make your own pattern and then improvise. Exactly right!

[@believeinfaeries8713]

Yes! I bought a sloper/block pattern from an etsy seller and have slowly been working on getting it to fit me. It is aggravating work and I've had to go back to square one once but it's so worth it. I've already made a dress with the block even though I don't have it perfect and it was amazing to put on a dress that fit me almost perfectly. (BTW, doing a FBA was the key component on getting the fit right. I'm a medium everywhere but my bust is in the XXL sizes.)

[@TheClosetHistorian]

The darn FBA is magic for sure, it was the key to getting my block to start to actually fit when I was struggling too ❤

[@hotjanuary]

What do you mean you bought one? Did you give them all your measurements and they drafted one for you?

[@believeinfaeries8713]

@@hotjanuary I bought a basic dress block from the shop "ByRayena" on etsy. It comes in a bunch of different sizes and you just find which one is closest to your measurements and start there. I do know that there are a few places out there that will draft according to your measurements but I haven't tried them.

[@hotjanuary]

@@believeinfaeries8713 There’s a free website that uses a computer program to draft one from your measurements. fearlessMakers(dot)com . Click on the Patternmaker Pro option. If you found it valuable, consider donating to them. However, I strongly recommend learning to draft it yourself just in case. I use the book “Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Armstrong. There’s a PDF online. My measurements change all the time, and having to make many adjustments to a predrafted commercial block is incredibly tiresome. Easier to work with the closest draft made from your own measurements.

[@TayaSews]

@@believeinfaeries8713 I paid a pro to do my blocks and I have ZERO regrets. Everything fits!! I'm in the promised land!!

[@Proposeasolution]

Tear 😢 thinking of my beautiful grandmother and her wonderful self-taught sewing skills that were gorgeous, to say the least. From beautiful gowns for her 8 daughters to curtains that are still hanging in her daughters and granddaughters' homes today. Well, at least the sheers. Her button collection alone I inherited is to die for. She had a sewing machine in her kitchen that was set up and ready to go every day of the year, except for Christmas.

[@mcwjes]

You've convinced me! You're right that 99% of sewing struggles boil down to a pattern not being made for my specific body or wonky draping. Sign me up!

[@shalinitahiliani5325]

I have made my bodice block after watching many of your drafting videos and can honestly say I have leveled up! I dont buy patterns anymore. I made my block from scratch, and it took 4 tries to perfect! I start with my block and modify necklines and ease and dart lines. The next step is to make a pant block and do the same thing. It's so freeing! Thank you, and keep making videos!

[@sandiemable]

OMG! You crack me up! I am going to get my sister's help to make a block pattern. I can drive a car...I can do this. xoxo's Sandie

[@TheClosetHistorian]

You can indeed! I find it easier than parallel parking, but maybe that's just me 😅

[@LittleLlamaCrochet]

I am new in the sewing world, and I have never heard of a block pattern / pattern drafting 🤯🤯🤯 Thank you :D

[@SewTexas]

I am with you, it is so much easier to make your own. I learned by accident after I had been sewing for years. In college my major was International Relations. My counselor told me I needed more units in any discipline. Turns out Univ of California/ Davis is the only university in the UC system that offered a degree in Fashion Design. And, all I could see was easy A because I had been sewing for4 years. Yep, draping was one of the areas that was offered and I had not ever done any patterns. I was all over this, despite I had always just purchase one of the big 4. I did however learn on the professional dress form and do love mine, and since I bought one while in school saved me hours of not having to attend class, I could just photo my progress and show up to class when I needed. Anyone reading this needs to learn this technique and you can make anything! You just have to make "ONE" time your size and you are good to go. Pattern catalogues are your friends and photos also, you do not necessarily need to learn to draft. And it is so fun, pinning muslin onto my dress form, limitless opportunities and designs.

[@kaytiej8311]

Salt, sass, and style. Yep, loving this! I think it would be physically impossible for you to withhold information! I love how you are so free with your knowledge, and love sharing it with us.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Ha thank you Kaytie 😅 I just want everyone to have as much fun drafting as I do really!

[@jennasilver94]

This is something I've been meaning to do for a long time. I would love to improve my sewing skills but working with commercial patterns is always a fitting nightmare. I already design most of my own knitting projects; it's time to start doing the same with my sewing. Thank you, Bianca, for giving us your tips and tricks and, perhaps even more importantly, cheering us on when we toss our commercial patterns!

[@iamsharon3306]

Thank you, Bianca for this very timely message to LEVEL UP. Loves it

[@waterbitten]

Bianca came back from the writing break and chose all the violence!! 😂😂😂 Also, I will say commercial patterns are great for absolute beginners, but as you get more comfortable then yes, 100% spend the time to make your own block.

[@michelleheegaard]

Im at the very start of my sewing journey of making my own clothes and this... I have this feeling that this video has spared for endless hours of frustration of trying to modify patterns to fit my specific body. Making this "block" sounds like such a good idea.

[@kristycutter4899]

Thank you for the encouragement to do this. I’m new and in the early part of the learning curve, but this feels more like how I cook. No recipe usually, just riffing on a flavor profile and what’s on hand. So this style fits my personality. Looking forward to the future videos on this topic!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Yes very like cooking! You can replace ingredients at will once you learn the basics!

[@belledobson2007]

I have gone from being a person scared to even have a go at drafting a pattern to being someone very confident to make my own draft patterns now. You have been and will continue to be a great teacher even when you think your not.

[@pinupplaytime300]

also this eyeshadow is probably my favorite ive ever seen on you and it's just the most

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! It's the shade 365 from JDGlow www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/index?q=garden+of+earthly+delights

[@margauxsab8764]

I need to rewatch, I was so distracted by how amazingly beautiful you are, your make-up in FLAWLESS

[@nurikooo]

Totally with you. Thanks for sharing this Bianca. Your work has encouraged and inspired me to make my own blocks, and I’ve re-gained my sewing inspiration thanks to that! The pattern drafting is challenging for me when I am doing something totally new, and have to find more videos and resources online. But I’d rather be learning that, than having to make the same adjustments for my size with every single commercial pattern. Took me 2 months to figure out the blocks I feel comfortable with, but there’s no going back now :D i’m so excited to keep learning pattern drafting! Thank you for sharing your talent and skill with us 🖤

[@Plektrud]

You are so right. Thats why watching catalogs with you is great. We must learn to make our to fit and vintage close up.

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "

[@normbutler22]

Bianca, I love this “rant”😊 probably because I was just telling myself, after 4+ years of sewing I still have a new fight on my hand each time I try to make a top/follow a sewing pattern because I have too many fit issues and I want my clothes to fit a certain way which is why I started sewing hoping to stop buying ready to wear tops. It’s discouraging. I always thought you had to be a mathematician to do your own block and sloped and math is not my strong area😅

[@strawberryattic]

Ive just finished a tutorial through Skillshare on making my own block and super chuffed with the result. Am now going to go back through your channel as the amendments you make to yours are always so well explained. Thank you

[@Susanfuzz]

You are a magical block pattern fountain 😂😂

[@TheClosetHistorian]

If only! If I had the magic ability to create them with an incantation, that would be pretty sweet though ✨😅

[@CrankyBubushka]

Thank you for this pep talk. I really like your channel and the info. Been wanting to try doing this for a long long time. Just no confidence. So ready for the dark side.

[@annguglielmino8989]

What did you say? I was so mesmerized by your solid gold eye shadow I missed it all....😄 I jest of course (but truly that color and shine...gorgeous!) and totally agree with you. Now to just DO IT!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Ann! This brand of eye shadow is my favorite because they are just so special and sparkling ✨ www.jdglowcosmetics.com/collections/galaxy-eyeshadows/products/copy-of-anomaly-galaxy-1

[@shavonneknight8746]

I am so glad I came across your channel. I started sewing in 2018 and I find myself making the same changes to all of the patterns. 😕 I am going to watch your playlist of making your own pattern block and begin this journey today! Thank you so much!!! 😀

[@DeHumaneVestisFabrica]

This pep-talk was exactly what I needed at exactly the right time to get me to finally start drafting. So, thank you! I have a suggestion, if you're interested: a lot of people are probably in the same 'I have now been inspired and thus am dipping my toes into pattern drafting' boat as I am. It might be a nice idea to start an instagram tag or something for all those people, so that we can share our progress and discoveries with each other.

[@gwendolynwehage6336]

What a beautiful blouse you are wearing!!!!! I am excited about trying pattern drafting.

[@thehalfbloodserb]

I recently acquired a sewing magazine from 1959 that was giving sewing tips from a renowned seamstress at the time. The very first chapter is about creating your own block pattern and all of the recommended adjustments to make for different body shapes. Even though she was advertising some sewing patterns, she said it's a lot easier to create a block pattern first and compare any patterns you buy to your block so you know what size and what adjustments to make rather than spending ages fitting mockups for each new pattern

[@judyevans6074]

Totally intimidated, while simultaneously relieved and inspired! Never heard of blocks... Or that second skin version that comes first (already forgot the name... Lol--but get the concept) ...have struggled with pattern fit for decades to the point I've given up sewing for years. I'm paying attention!! And will be watching more... Thank you.

[@alyssajennings2543]

This was my sign.... THANK YOU!! I found a few blogs that address making blocks for plus size bodies, it is extremely helpful. I hate being 2 sizes above The Big Four's standard size (because all of the plus size patterns are bland and boxy) and I don't want to grade up and fit every single time because I have a large bust and apple waist. So thank you a million times over; and f*@# commercial patterns.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Much better to get to play with design every time then have to correct the size every time I figure 😅

[@catsncrows]

Yes! Learn this! Well, I went through a certificate program, but it's so freeing once you aren't struggling to figure out why your commercial pattern turned out a mess. It was so frustrating Edit my text book was Patternmaking For Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong

[@Siansonea]

I've often felt like the pattern industry has missed the technology boat. The whole system should be an online ordering, print-to-order methodology. You plug in a series of measurements, and a software application drafts the pattern accordingly, then prints it out, either on paper or directly onto fabric. Why aren't the pattern companies doing this?

[@TuesdaysArt]

That seems like it would save a ton of money on production costs, though I've heard that commercial patterns are huge and hard to convert into PDFs (which is why it's near impossible to find vintage patterns in PDF format).

[@ThundermansThunder]

I have wanted to learn to sew, for years, and have tried a few times, each try, was with a different pattern, to make something, only to become so horribly overwhelmed, that I would give up. I am not one to shy away from patterns and instructions, as I have learned to read and work by many others, for many different projects and mediums, but after learning that I can make my own pattern blocks, and modify them to make almost anything, just gives me new confidence! I have so many things, in mind, that I would love to make, and I am thinking that you may be the catalyst that increases my knowledge enough to make it workable, for me. Hope is beginning to grow. 😃

[@stephaniew2545]

I'm here for the darkside learning of drafting a block.....now....where are the cookies?😁

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I may have eaten all the cookies 😅

[@stephaniew2545]

I work in a bakery.... You keep up the amazing bestowal of knowledge, I got you with the cookies 🍪😁

[@allydouillette4661]

I remember seeing this a year ago with the intention of learning how to sew and fast forward, I generally stick to either cloning patterns and modifying it or taking this approach. It seems more logical, because sewing is mental gymnastics of "when do what how" so when you have to analyze the design you get much more practice in the practice, AND you don't rely on pattern makers. So thank you for giving me the kickass inspirational vibe in this video that other comments mentioned.

[@LancasterM972]

your delivery and side eye's had me rolling... Glade I found your channel... Thank you.

[@HockityPock]

The worst part so far is finding someone to help me take every measurement needed for drafting- can't measure my own shoulder blades too easily!

[@khaxjc1]

Ive seen some videos that offer advice for on your own measuring and the key seemed to be a yard stick or similar long straight stick like object and recording. The yardstick was used in several cases to attach the measuring tape to dangle it from different points without contorting too much, basically extending your reach from angles your arm just shouldn't go, and they filmed the whole process then watched it back to get the measurements rather than trying to spot them in the mirror or again twisting. Most just used their phones for it. I have no idea if this helps you but having watched people do it this way certainly made it less intimidating to me. Actually Nicole Rudolph (sp?) put out a video not long ago called something like how to pattern a regency dress without help which was all about patterning for yourself on your own. Even if you're not into regency there was a lot of info about fit and how to adjust on yourself as you go.

[@katherinemorelle7115]

Cathy Hay has a video where she uses taped together yardsticks to do all of those measurements on herself- and she also uses a video to see what the measurements are.

[@lizcademy4809]

Help is great, but if you can substitute time and patience (and several more yards of muslin), you can do it yourself. Start by getting close with the measurements you can take by yourself. You can even use a commercial pattern as a starter. Make a muslin with big basting stitches, large seam allowances turned to the outside. Leave the center front seam open (add a CF seam if you don't have one), try it on, and pin it shut. It won't fit well. Make notes on where it doesn't fit and guess at how much more or less room you need. If you can't see the back, use your phone camera. Now, either alter the muslin or make a new one with your changes, and try #2 on. That won't fit either ... but it will be closer. Keep repeating until you get something that fits the way you want. I went through this process for a Steampunk Maker's apron with a closely fitted princess seamed top. I used the final muslin as the lining (shell was a pinstriped denim), and it turned out fabulously. However ... ... you will need to repeat the whole process if you lose 30 pounds 🙂

[@ah5721]

The struggle is real! My favorite item is my measuring tape but I still need help

[@PrincessHVHHDSSS]

I've purchased some plain material to "create my own pattern design". Goody, goody, can't wait to create some new masterpieces. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. Love your rant. Rant away, any time. Love Holly 🕊🌿🌲🌱🌳🍃🍀🌴🕊🌿🌱🌳

[@kimzachris5340]

Oooh, what kind of cookies? Oat cookies with walnuts, dried apricots and cardamom?

[@khaxjc1]

Why do you need to give me cravings for things its far too hot to be making?

[@rd6203]

🤤

[@helenahandbasket3244]

You said cardamom..... sigh.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Well those sound very yummy indeed 🤩

[@kimzachris5340]

I'm glad they seem tempting to others as well, in case I ever need good bait to lure introverts out of hiding or extroverts into quiet corners.

[@silaslizzie43]

Ha! I signed up for my first private lesson in drafting two weeks ago and am super excited! I'm sick of off the rack clothes that NEVER fit. Ready for an adventure.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I hope you have a most fabulous adventure indeed!

[@cherieblaydes3753]

Well... I do like clothing that fits on fist try... And do like cookies... So why not?

[@mickeyhinkson1750]

You are a breath of fresh air. I’ve been sewing since I was eight years old. Making (and altering ) many garments over the years. Three years ago we moved to Fiji. There are no commercial patterns in Fiji. There are wonderful dressmakers who can do anything with a meter stick in one hand and the piece of chalk in the other. They taught me that copying a garment that fits well is a gift to the wardrobe. Since we’ve been back in the US I’ve been dabbling with making my own designs and using “block patterns” made from RTW clothing in my closet. I am grateful for the many KZbinrs who share their talents. There’s no one in my community who understands the process, so it can be a little lonely. Your video put a smile on my face and warmed my heart. I would love to join you for cookies!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Mickey! Those seamstress sound amazing, that level of skill is a lost art in many places here for sure!

[@dianeshiffer364]

I’m sorry… but you’re adorable. 😘

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Well why thank you 😅

[@carolynellis387]

Stumbled across your site today and this makes a lot of sense for a beginner blocker.. Ive always wondered, sewing neatly as I've learnt to do, but couldn't for the life of me work out why patterns were so awful to use. Takes a great woman to give the info Thanks

[@colmkirk8657]

Pretty sure TV wiped out 5 millennia of basic necessity skills in a single decade. And anyway, who wants to wear beige, when you can wear black?! The Dark Side for me! (I'll bring the cookies.)

[@evermateo6166]

😮 where has the video been hiding?! Sheesh so happy this came on my feed! I almost bought one of those expensive pattern making - best video and I love the host! ❤

[@hedgerow.homestead]

Ok ok, I’ll do it! Thank you for the encouragement.

[@l_u_c_i_d_m_i_n_d_d]

"Come over to the dark side of pattern drafting... sometimes we have cookies!" Count me in !! 😍🤣🤣

[@jjhollenkoppell2975]

I love your video and personality. I am now learning to sew. A bit clueless but optimistic. I saw my aunt sew from tailored men suits and women wedding dresses to my school uniforms or everyday outfit and never used a pattern once. Sadly i never focust or cared to learn even though she tried her best to teach me. I do know basic stuff like hemming and basic straight stitch on a singer machine. With all that blah blah i am grateful for your videos. Especially that you take your time STEP BY STEP and CLEARLY EXPLAIN unlike other videos' on here that rush and make sure to explain every step and with reasons. THANK YOU THANK YOU

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you JJ! Past generations had so much sewing skill, I wish I could go back in time and soak it up!

[@rosekay5031]

I don’t sew and this came up in my feed. It actually has piked my interest in sewing. Will be going through your videos from here. Thank you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Rose!

[@zyperellen6413]

I have been using my block patterns for a year and a half and i love them so much And you are right there is nothing better than when someone compliments my pants and I can say, "oh thanks, I made them myself, including the pattern"

[@ununhexium]

I really appreciate this. I am the kind of person who doesn't easily fit into boxes and I try to customize everything. I've struggled my entire life with buying clothes because I'm way too particular with what I would wear. It is way more "me" to build blocks but I didn't even know what that was until I saw this video. Thanks for unlocking my custom wardrobe future.

[@joynulabedin1703]

Amazing comments.if you are facing sewing pattern making problem.just scarch in google " pattren139 "