STOP USING YOUR JOHN DEERE 1023E 1025R OR 2025R RIGHT NOW! Stop Sale/Use Order Just Released!

[@JohnWCH]

To be clear, when I called the dealerships in regards to their USED inventory, not NEW machines, as new machines are not affected. I didn't make that clear in the vid.

[@benbelk2928]

y'oughta edit that in your title

[@kcc2337]

Hi - I have a 2019 2025R. About 2 years ago my break bellcrank failed exactly as the recall states and the part you showed in your video. The part simply broke in two leaving the brakes completely inoperable. I was fortunate that it happened as I was engage the park dog on level ground and the tractor was still in gear. This gave me hydrostatic stopping control. After removing the failed part it was clear it was made from poor quality cast metal. I think aluminum. I decided right there I would not replace with another poorly made or designed part from John Deere. I took the 2 pieces to a local metal fab shop and had one made from steel. Now the recall... I will have John Deere replace with the new one as that will get me a free linkage lube and brake adjustment. The repair cost me $90. Basically for min 1 hour labor. Materials were minimal.

[@Phaedrus-th7bi]

I decided not to wait on JD parts to be made, and I bought a bell crank for my 2025R off Ebay ($53). This one was fabricated with steel and welded(much stronger). It took me less than 45 minutes to install, and would probably take someone who has done it before about 25 minutes. I suggest you put the tractor on level ground and block the wheels for safety. Use a 13mm wrench (a 1/2 inch will also work, but remember the two bolts are metric, M8 - 1.25) and it is helpful to have a long screwdriver for leveraging off the rod that goes back to the rear axle/brake. When finished, I replaced the cotter pin with a new one. Remember that the rod (which goes to the back of the tractor) is on springs and can be pulled forward by hand, to help you line up the brake rod hole in the crank. Both original bolts through the bell crank do NOT have nuts. You will see that the original bolts (when backing them out) will literally eventually hit part of the frame, but if you tip the head of the bolt back and wriggle, you have just enough room to get the bolts completely out. I used a ratcheting 1/2" box wrench, but then had to switch to a crescent wrench, otherwise the ratcheting wrench will get stuck [because the bolts are flanged] when the bolt is nearly out. Note that only the axle (?) itself is threaded. I discovered that the original bell crank is caste [aluminum ???] and cheaply made. The caste crank is only threaded about 25%. There is no need to jack the tractor up because there is plenty of room [unless you have a big stomach] to crawl on your back under the right side of the tractor. The bell crank is on the RIGHT side of the tractor, directly beneath where the heal of your shoe is, when your right foot is on the (foreward/reverse) pedals. It's a simple fix because the part is 100% metal and there is no electronics or plastics, etc., involved. Local people are fabricating them from steel in their shops [welding]. JD plans on sending techs to your home and doing the needed replacements there, so you don't have to go to a dealership. But the fix is pretty easy, if you want to do it yourself. Again, I got the part for about $53 from someone probably fabricating them in their garage or metal working job. Honestly, a 12 year old boy could probably figure out how to do the removal/installation, but remember, the rod that goes between the crank and the rear brakes is with springs so it can be easily moved back and forth to line it up with the crank hole (top) again. [Don't have the parking brake on when doing the replacement. Chuck the wheels, etc.]

[@jonesrick1]

I got my letter yesterday. I take it very seriously and will call my local JD shop to set up an appointment to repair.

[@JohnWCH]

Nice

[@FloridaDeere]

Hey buddy, thanks for the word, I do have a 2018 during that build date, I guess I will wait to hear from Mother Deere. I will say that I will absolutely continue to use my 1023E, as I just finished mowing the yard a few hours ago here in FL. Why would I still use it, well, dang I really can't remember the last time I used the brake or certainly the last time I ever NEEDED to use the brakes. But this info is nice to know and I will share it as one of your watchers was kind enough to pass your video onto me. Thank you again my Deere friend.

[@JohnWCH]

I actually edited the part out where i said the same EXACT thing. IDK if ive used my brakes (except for parking) more than 4 times ever.

[@FloridaDeere]

@@JohnWCH Yep, I was thinking I actually use it to set the brake on the trailer.

[@wraith3951]

This explains why I “suddenly” got a call about my warranty expiring soon and we want to give u a “Connivence” check before it expires. I had My previous 1025r for exactly 2yrs and they never called me for this convience check but I randomly get a call for my 2025. This Explains a lot!

[@JohnWCH]

Interesting....

[@JB-171]

I bought a new 1025R 11 months ago (absolutely no issues to date at all,it’s been great) and both the model year and manufacture year are 2023; therefore not on the recall list…I ran the serial number on the JD website. I’m wondering if anyone knows if JD did in fact change the material and/or manufacturing process on the bell crank sometime between 2022 and 2023 because the one on my machine looks strikingly similar to the photos I’ve seen of ones that have either failed or need to be replaced. Thanks.

[@JB-171]

So, I answered one of my own questions. It’s definitely not a steel bell crank, that’s the only part of the linkage that a magnet won’t stick to. I’m not sure why 2023 years wouldn’t be included.

[@wastingtime8078]

I have a 1025r and I keep finding bolts in the yard from it. (Dealer tells me its just extra bolts that were dropped on the assembly line) The latest bolt I found looks like it could be one of the two on the brake pedal there. I only have 28 hours on it and it's a 2022.

[@JohnWCH]

That's preposterous. BOLTS no. A bolt, eh maybe. I'd start looking around your machine for empty holes. Also, id throw a socket on what I could see, to make sure everything is tight.

[@projectswithjw]

There is a picture of the updated part on green tractor talk. It looks like a piece made in a machine shop with welded gussets. Much nicer than the cast chinesium we currently have.

[@JohnWCH]

I see it. I may end up doing it myself. The $85 is cheaper/faster than the transpo back and forth to the dealer.

[@dannysilk1]

I had to replace mine recently on my 2018 2025R. It was an exciting ride down the hill while I we trying to figure out what happened. NO BRAKES! Cost about three weeks and $100

[@JohnWCH]

Holy smokes! Glad you're ok.

[@MegaJim58]

I have a 2021 1025R I keep it meticulous always garaged I wondered how you made out with your transmission did JD warranty that issue ?

[@JohnWCH]

yeah. i posted an update vid. Its the vid just before this one on the channel kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2TanoOGbZ2GrK8

[@kentwood6099]

Thanks for the update. Kent from PEI

[@JohnWCH]

You're welcome. Thanks for watching.

[@MJF40]

Ordered for $79 shipped the new part. Not going to stop using mine. It’s a stupid design by JD use a cast aluminum bracket over a likely cold rolled steel shaft with corrosion issues. No, I looked at mine. It looks absolutely perfect. I saw TTWT’s post and I quickly ordered from Deere. I’m not giving my tractor back to the dealer, I’m not gonna drive my tractor to the dealer and then lose it for a week. Imagine having a 2017 1025r and getting notice in August of 2024 to stop using your tractor. 😂 definitely doesn’t look hard to replace. .02

[@JohnWCH]

I think you're gonna be returning it. Just posted a follow-up.

[@brancewilson774]

Ok here we go I own a 2019 JD 1025r with about 130hrs. Last year I had a near death experience with my tractor when the brakes failed me and my tractor was not in gear and picked up enough speed to restrict me from getting it in gear. I was free wheeling down a hill running about 30mph. I had to drop the bucket and the rear brush hog to try and stop me but in doing so I bent the arms of the tractor. Before all this I went to use the emergency brake but JD decided to tie that in with the normal brake(unbelievable) Long story short I had over $7k in damages and just some bumps and bruises. I reached out to JD and they said to take it to Pape Mach to evaluate. JD sends me a letter stating they have reviewed the situation and talked with pape to come to a conclusion that JD did nothing neglagent to cause this catastrophe. Pape later contacted me to say that they would offer me a three way split to fix the problem. Meaning JD,Pape and me would split the cost. So when I agreed because I felt I had no choice they fixed it and when they delivered it I see that they replaced it with the same failing part. I think after seeing that JD finally admitted to the failure I should get a full refund. What do you think?

[@JohnWCH]

I think I see a lawyer and the first round of beers on you in the future....if you were so inclined. Personally, I'm just glad you're ok. For the most part, we're not farmers. We're not professionals. We just want a machine, that in some cases (like my own) that is replacing a sports car as a mid-life crisis toy. And then it tries to kill us. If I wanted to die doing something with an engine, I would have gotten the Porsche. But instead I got something with a top speed of 9 mph. And it still becomes a 1 ton hunk of unstoppable metal because JD needed to save three fucking dollars.

[@21stEquip]

We want to inform you about a recent stop use alert issued by John Deere for the 1023E, 1025R, and 2025R models built between November 17, 2017, and September 30, 2022. John Deere will be reaching out directly to customers with affected machines to provide further instructions and support. At 21st Century, your safety and satisfaction are our top priorities. We’re pleased to report that less than 1% of our current in-stock inventory is affected by this issue. Rest assured, any affected machines will undergo the necessary Performance Improvement upgrade and thorough testing before delivery to ensure they meet the highest standards of performance and safety. If you have any concerns or would like to verify whether your machine is affected, please contact your local John Deere dealership for assistance. Thank you for your understanding and continued trust in 21st Century and John Deere.

[@Phaedrus-th7bi]

I replaced/installed the new (fabricated by one of all steel-welding) yesterday. Easy do it yourself fix, for $53.00. See my below comments.

[@GaryDavis-ll4uc]

I have one but it's a 2024

[@JohnWCH]

According to Deere, you should be good.

[@JB-171]

I’ve got a 2023 (not on the recall list) and I’m not so sure. Pretty sure my bell crank is aluminum, it’s definitely made of material a magnet won’t stick to.

[@GaryDavis-ll4uc]

@JB-171 I better ck mine. I only have 27 hours on mine. Had it almost a year

[@hoofpac]

My dealer is so far unaware. Pennsylvania

[@JohnWCH]

The notice came out July 26... shouldn't be long until they all know about it.

[@devindombrowski8401]

I am so glad that they are FINALLY taking this problem serious! I have had this same part break 5 TIMES in the past ~5 years. Each time was terrifying especially while on a slope carrying a load. I have repeatedly told the dealership about this problem and they seem to always blow me off. This is very much a real problem.

[@JohnWCH]

FIVE TIME!? Man. That's crazy. Hopefully this recall fixes it permanently for everyone.

[@chrisreibold1634]

Can you stop payments til its fixed? Lol

[@JohnWCH]

Valid question although not likely!

[@mkkolden]

I just had to replace mine. $100

[@johngallucci77]

Was it easy to fix?

[@JohnWCH]

It LOOKS easy to do. Was it?

[@mkkolden]

Took about an hour. Not to bad

[@scottl5785]

All 1023E, 1025R and 2025R's built between almost 5yrs, "I'm sure there aren't a lot of them out there" no sarcasm?

[@JohnWCH]

It's very, VERY hard for me to not be sarcastic. It's in my DNA.

[@ClearCreekCabinMiniFarm]

I checked my John Deere 1025r tractor TLB for a possible brake linkage failure. It doesn't appear that my 2019 series tractor has the type of "Bellcrank" that would fail. Here's some pics of what my linkage looks like... kzbin.info8hawdNgpzz0

[@JohnWCH]

The part that you are showing is part of the MMM bracketry. The part in question is more towards the bow of the machine, next to the f/r pedals. It is shown in the background of your Short at :35