Story of an Icon: Rolex Sea-Dweller History

[@568843daw]

Wait a minute... my dad was a US Navy Deep Sea Diver from 1951-1968 and was also an instructor at the Washington DC “Deep sea Diving School”. In addition, he worked with the Experimental Diving Unit there too. He and other sailors within that group were all issued Rolex sea dwellers, before that was its name, so they could be tested. The Navy wanted to know it these were viable timepieces and Rolex needed that type of testing. After years of use and on my dad’s last deep dive in 1967 the watch stopped. The dive turned out to be historic in the diving world because of the depth he went to. His adventure was done in a diving bell from the USS Greenlet, ASR-10.. Anyway, the watch case looked normal but the mechanism inside was bent to hell. The crystal was loose but still attached. Since he was retiring, he was not issued another. My dad said his watch was a faithful friend, durable, strong and accurate. It had been with him from recovering a jeweled necklace for an Indian Princess(that is not a joke) who was visiting D.C. to saving submariners from certain death. It was always dependable. He was so sad beyond belief when it died and spoke about that timepiece often as I grew up. He kept it in his watch case. How about that for an endorsement and history.

[@joakimegeland5563]

Might have been mentioned by some of the other commenters, but the Sea-Dweller "great-white" you displayed was in fact a rare version of the "great-white", known as a "rail-dial" Sea-Dweller, here the C´s of chronometer and certified aligns. This version of the sea-dweller had it´s dials produced by the stern company, which is the same company that made the comex Sea Dweller dials. The minute markers on this dial is also slightly different on this version as opposed to the normal "great-white" due to the fact that they are ever so slightly, touching the minute track on the on the outer edge of the dial.

[@TheMystro1971]

Being a diver and Rolex watch enthusiasts, this new SD43 is the ultimate professional diver. It has replaced my sub as I feel the larger size fits me better and is more legible. I am a real diver and adore the cyclops on the new 50th anniversary SeaDweller. Perhaps watch enthusiast that don’t dive tend to hold on to antiquated traditions too long with performance being sacrificed. The cyclops on my Sub never got in the way or ever impeded any of my many dives over the last 3 decades. The SD43 also not top heavy like I the DSSD. This is the real livable professional diving watch.

[@polarroller]

Great history on the Sea Dweller. I don't find the DSSD- Cameron too big or too heavy at all. I love the gradient dial, and probably my most favorite watch in my collection.

[@zahirparker7546]

I guess it's kinda randomly asking but do anybody know of a good site to stream new movies online?

[@Mpayne1472]

@@zahirparker7546 Netflix

[@entubator01]

Bravo Armand. Excellent piece. Very much on point.

[@paulbrady8107]

Armand you're a bad man now, I have never been a rolex fan boy I've always respected the technical side of the watches but after watching your video not only do I now want a submariner but I want an original one from the 60s or 70s.master class of the Rolex deep sea.big thumbs up to you .more please.👍

[@bloodymarvelous4790]

You skipped over the 16600, which came between the 16660 and the 116660 Deepsea. The 16660 had the 3035 movement and tritium lume. The 16600 had the 3135 movement and luminova. This was the one that had the largest production run, not the 16660. In 2018 (after this video) the 126660 Deepsea with the 3235 movement was released. Lug width was increased from 20mm to 22mm, giving a better visual balance to the watch, and adding more counterweight in the bracelet, making the watch less top heavy. My personal Sea-Dweller grail watches are the 116600 40mm with the ceramic bezel, and the 126660 Deepsea with the D-Blue dial. I agree that the 126600 Sea-Dweller 43 caters to a market that doesn't exist. The watch is almost as big (though admittedly not as thick) as the Deepsea, but with 1/3rd the depth rating. I like the red line, but despise the cyclops. I would rather have seen an upgraded version of the 116600 at 40mm, with the 3235 movement, the red line of text, and no cyclops. That would've been pretty much perfect.

[@JeanClaudeVanDabs]

First! ;-) Classy content, Armand. Big fan.

[@dorningarts]

second that:)

[@OFD]

Great educational video as always. Thanks Armand.

[@pablozorro3507]

Great detailed knowledge which must have required a lot of research. Appreciate the effort and insights provided 👏

[@johnlacroix1639]

WOW very kool ,,Yum I like,, good job

[@jakede565]

116600 SD4K will be the holy grail in 20 years

[@impexRQ]

Best and last true Sea Dweller- The 116600 SD4K is perfection

[@ericwilliams2317]

Thanks for a very interesting video, although it reminds me of one of the biggest mistakes in my life. In 1985 I saw an Ad in a London newspaper for a "Rolex divers watch" - price £250! I Met the chap selling it in Covent Garden, took a look at the watch, which had some old stainless bracelet on it and the glass was scratched to hell and he proved it was waterproof by dropping it into a pint of beer. I didn't have a clue what a "Sea Dweller" was at the time, but thats what it said on the dial. Anyway, I took a punt on it being genuine and paid him. Several weeks later I took it to a jeweler in the city of London to have it serviced and brought back to proper spec and I was more than relieved to find out it was a "real" Rolex SD. I got it back some weeks later and was beautiful. Well, I wore that watch for the next several years, until it started losing time - about 5 mins a day - and it ended up sitting in a drawer for a couple of years more. In 1995 I needed cash for some project or other and decided to flog this watch as I wasn't using it and didn't want to spend money on another service. Long story short, I took it to a shop in Bond Street, London to ask if they wanted to buy it? The chap nearly fell off his seat and immediately offered £750 for it, we ended up settling on £800 and I walked away quite happy. Until that is, many years later when I realised exactly what they were and how valuable they are. Having looked at this video, I'm sure it was the "1665 Double Red Mk 3"! I don't even want to think what that would be worth now!

[@daniel166hue]

Eric Williams as of today it ranging between £30,000 - £60,000 ✌🏻

[@alexhoksbergen6161]

Thank you for this great review! But I think you are ruling out the new SD43 too quickly, and judging it a little too harshly. The proportions of the SD43 and the new size bracelet is in good harmony with the watch , no comparison with the DSSD, but perhaps you haven't had a chance to see one in flesh at the time of yr video (Apr.30 as it only hit the market in May). You might change your mind once you see it in flesh, as it definitely is a super nice watch and it sits very nicely on the wrist. I think Rolex did a great job introducing a bigger size diver which was definitely missing in the range, and the DSSD was really wrong in it's proportions. The new SD43 is proving a commercial success as waiting lists are already building up worldwide. The cyclops however is a very arguable part and create lots of talks, while it is true that no SD had this feature in the past, but it is also really in the DNA of Rolex to have cyclops for the date of their watches..New movement is a good evolution too..The red writing is a nice plus.All in all a lovely diver!

[@ArmandTheWatchGuy]

+Alex Hoksbergen: Thank you very much for the interesting comment. It is great to hear some viewer feedback about the Sea-Dweller 43 because this is certainly a divisive watch to say the least. I thiink that you make an extremely valid point with regards to a larger size dive watch and I certainly agree that the new movement is an improvement. My view is perhaps a bit biased as I have always seen the Sea-Dweller as a watch lover's Submariner due to the HEV and depth rating which, therefore, makes the 43 a watch which I do not appreciate as much. Similarly, I was hoping for the red text to make this watch more of a kindred spirit to the 1665 but this instead goes against the essence of the original which puts me off rather due to the cyclops. Either way, it is very much an opinion!

[@alexhoksbergen6161]

Thank you for yr reply Armand! I fully understand and respect your view which is shared by many enthusiast and rightly so, as it is undeniable that the SD has just gone through a lot of "transformation at once" to say the least, and it might take awhile to adjust, and maybe for some, the nostalgia is too big, in which case one has to turn to the past, and fold back on previous generations. I love the sub and SD, they are the ultimate divers for me, with a soft spot for the SD4k ceramic, even if it might not have meet Rolex market expectation, as it's a classic SD in the tradition, but maybe it ws time to move on... I agree that the new SD43 is somewhat a bit of a game changer, but the spirit is still there, as a "high performance dive watch", and as watches in general have grown in size in the last 50 years, I think the 43mm is actually a welcome edition for a tool watch. Some say it look like a sub on steroid, I think this is actually what the SD has always been.. Kind of the big brother of the sub..Now it really look like the big brother.. Maybe we have to see the change more in this respect. But the SD43 is a very sexy watch, and I believe it will eventually gain market acceptance from a lot of purists. Of course you can never please everyone, but there is no doubt that lots of thoughts/lesson learned from past 2 versions, helped to fashion this very new look/design. I am sold, I love the new SD.

[@alexhoksbergen6161]

To try to understand the move and philosophy behind this up-grade: The most water these watches are seeing is an occasional shower.. 99% buys them for their look rather than dive capabilities, and even for a Tec/Trimix diver like me, a Sub with 300mtrs rating is more than enough, so my reason to like the SD over the Sub is purely an aestetic one.. Now basically for the "average watch buyer" Rolex was charging a premium for a watch identical to the Sub, called the SD looking almost 100% same (less cyclops and + helium valve???)... This is why the sales were so marginal... Now "average watch buyer" will understand better why they pay premium for the new SD43 as it is a bigger watch new movement/more depth rating than the classic 40mm sub... Meaning, kind of a "up-graded sub", and that is what the SD has actually always been..AN UP-GRADED SUB.... But Rolex has now made it obvious and the premium is more justified, 2 different watches, 2 different sizes, 2 different specs... Smart move.

[@jps3b]

Alex Hoksbergen gentlemen, I was blessed enough to pick one up last week. Let me tell you that the watch is perfect. The proportions are spot on, and I actually really like the addition of the cyclops. I understand the controversy, but this is 2017. I look to the future instead of living in the past. I do dive from time to time for work, and you better believe this SD43 will be on my wrist. It will replace my submariner 16610LV that I dive with now. Thank you for the very informative and accurate video!

[@mattpeters6224]

@@alexhoksbergen6161 Completely agree. You nailed it mate.

[@BiffTannenBTTF]

The 3135 was used on the 16600 as well, pre 2008

[@Mpayne1472]

Yes. I have a 2005

[@bobfrombrisbane1831]

Informative video, much appreciated.

[@slavaboggu]

Recently purchased the 116600 SD4K and absolutely love it. Great recap of the Sea-Dweller line.

[@suhandasuhanda6407]

+1

[@polarroller4848]

Steven...you dog!! I'm so jealeous!!! I'm saving up for one and hope to get one this fall before Rolex drops the red line.

[@delesdog]

Hot damn, that double red SD.

[@bobbywatchaddict523]

The US Navy’s SEALAB divers, specifically Chief Warrant Officer Robert Barth, were the key initiators in Rolex’s development of the Sea-Dweller from the Submariner. COMEX was only an early adopter of the already completely developed watch.

[@thehooch-man2657]

Good video. That is a serious chunk of steel. Like everythung about it except the polished center links.

[@masudashizue777]

I'm happy to own the 2009 Sea-Dweller in unworn condition. When the models all changed in 2010, I had the presence of mind to pick one up, and I never regretted it.

[@fugitive88888]

great as always

[@bernhardtdenes7487]

This is quality content. Informative and educational. Good job. Subscribed.

[@jason.mwalsh5867]

Very enjoyable, thank you.

[@mattpeters6224]

Great review. Extremely interesting comments. I waited a year to get the SD43 because I couldn't get one at an AD. Got a 116100LN instead and love it. However after wearing the 126600 the Sub has left my collection. Im not happy about parting with my Sub I just needed to trade it, I'm married and she doesn't get it. LOL. I have a 7 inch wrist and the 126600 wears perfectly for me. I believe this will be my forever watch. Im not particularly happy that I paid a 15% mark-up in the grey market but, I was afraid it would be even more if I waited. Time will tell and it certainly is trending in that direction.

[@tomchoi7074]

SD43 is the best looking one of them all. The size and the cyclop is lovely addition, hence I bought one.

[@maradona8623]

Thank you sir totally agree , love mine . It’s perfect

[@CaptainZed]

I really enjoyed your video and you inspired me to where my 90s 16600 👍

[@koggism]

Very nice video on a great watch series by Rolex, well presented and informative.

[@peterlorimer3552]

Thank you for what was another brilliant and very informative video. I'm learning so much from this series of posts. You can never have too much knowledge I think especially when it comes to this wonderful pastime we all enjoy so much. Straight after this I had a revisit to a few of your other excellent posts. Love the Tudor that you purchased a little while ago. A lovely piece and one that I expect will provide you with many years of reliable service. An excellent choice, if a tad left of field. Take care bye for now Armand.

[@tygaz3061]

i could not disagree with u more... i took ownership of the 126600.. i find it well balance.. the cyclops actually adds depth to the watch not imbalance... the size is perfect bec it differentiates it from a sub or gmt... the weight is not an issue i wear mine daily... i beleive this 126600 will go down as the greatest sea dweller ever made...

[@dereks66]

All Rolex dive watches are awesome!

[@damachine3]

I couldn't agree more. I have the same one and it is my favorite of my collection. I have the Mk1 dial version; the true 50th Anniversary edition!

[@thefiremensch]

Clearly your opinion, and mainly because you do own that watch! I own the 116600 which kept most of the Sea-Dweller aesthetic history and I love that aspect. Not having a cyclops differentiates it from all sub-models which is, IMO, awesome. I DO love the red lettering... I wish they put that on the 2014 SD4K :(

[@damachine3]

@@thefiremensch I can't speak for him but, if he is like me, it's the opposite...I don't share his opinion because I own the watch, I own the watch because I have that opinion. I also think the SD4K is fantastic. I love them all. Anyway, I'm glad we're all happy with our watches.

[@thefiremensch]

@@damachine3 hahaha at the price points, I sure do hope we are happy!! Either way, I still think the 126600 is a great looking watch. Can we all agree though about how horrible the new two-tone SD is?!!!

[@ZCT808]

Very well done, nice research and information presented well.

[@WatchGeek]

I cannot believe it but every single statement you made about every one of these models, especially the modern ones and rant about them is EXACTLY what I think of them, especially the latest one with the cyclops and increased size, such a letdown! a very enjoyable video!! keep up the great work

[@djdc81]

Just got on the waitlist for this

[@1000lightyrs]

I also recently purchased the 40mm ceramic SD 116600, just as it became discontinued and superceded. It's the best Rolex diver ever, whereas the new SD just doesn't seem right.

[@tarjas]

Very much agree!

[@59Wanders]

thanks for sharing the insight of sea dweller milestone. i enjoyed it. the 1665 is definitely the most favorable among others.

[@j308s7]

Yes,you only need a helium escape valve if you're going into a diving bell-that's where the helium gets in,not whilst diving.Great video.

[@Mpayne1472]

Wrong. You ever heard a diver speak in a dive bell?

[@timmcqueen6386]

Having owned a BLNR, and a Blue DSSD, and an SD43, I must disagree on the bagging of the SD43. The BLNR - while mesmerising to look at, is too small in my opinion. And the James Cameron, too big. While it is also simply lovely to look at, the height of the JC, and the narrowness of the bracelet makes it difficult to wear day to day. That makes the SD43 the Goldilocks - it's just right. The broader bracelet, the larger but not too large size, and the cyclops, all make this watch an amazing all-rounder. If things never changed, everything.... would stay the same. I commend Rolex on the courage to have a crack and do something different.

[@TheMystro1971]

This is Rolex advancing their dive watches and not living in the past. Certainly Rolex would had included a cyclops 40 years ago had it been technically possible. The SD43 is a modern and very wearable professional dive watch.

[@damachine3]

I own all of those watches, and many more, as well and I couldn't agree more on everything you just said. I own the version with the Mk1 dial...the true 50th!

[@Mpayne1472]

JC isn’t too big. It’s great on a rubber strap tho

[@polarroller4848]

Excellent historical review Armand.

[@joshclayg]

Enjoyed that, thank you

[@robinh2923]

great video thanks!! very informative!

[@retiredbroker]

I just got one from my AD this year!

[@hoangtuheo1202]

Awesome

[@cedarcanoe]

Very nice review, great work!

[@timgreen6952]

Amazing video as ever

[@JFK-1984]

Picked up my SD43 yesterday from my AD. I think best looking diver and perfect for my big wrist and hands. The 4000 is nice but to small and the red lining is epic 👌

[@derektimmerman5406]

Fantastic, thank you

[@RobinDaelman]

Hi, thanks for this video. In my opinion you were sharing too much of emotion in the SD43 redline watch.. You didn't mention about the grey/black dial for instance.as well the quality of the lettertype that matches the vintage one. The redline 2017 has remarkable changes in terms of innovation. Is different from the deepsea model. This watch is also not that big then most people are mentioning here on the internet. The best way is to try it out yourself and decide. If you like the submariner date then you even like this watch more also because of the history behind and the features you'll have with it. It is for passionates.

[@impexRQ]

Thank you for your review - I have owned 2x times the SD43 but it just didn’t sign to me, I wish Rolex had keep the SD43 without cyclops.. for this very reason I’m trying find the SD4000

[@silentrevolver4600]

enjoying this with a 1978 Great white 1665 Mark 1 dial

[@minty448]

Edward Lau so am I

[@teamhonn]

thanks you learned lots.

[@dvamateur]

43mm is incredibly tiny compared to "ghetto" watches that so many wear in NYC. :)

[@impexRQ]

SD4K 116600 - the best and last true Sea Dweller. 💯 perfection

[@Mark-sd7fc]

I'm sure that a lot of work went into the making of this video thank you for putting in the time, I'm glad that I watched it, very informative

[@Helloworldwrjfjrjrj]

So. 1995 deepsea or 4000.?

[@Mpayne1472]

I think you mean 1995 4000 or Deepsea

[@cam4792]

Nice vid but your missing a few facts about the ref 16660. that reference was from 1978 to 1988. Following that reference was the 16600. That was the model that lasted till 2008. You need to make a correction in the description.

[@commentjedi]

cam , part of the story is missing. The 16600 I believe is 1988-2008, changed movements, changed to glossy dial, possibly changed to applied indexes. It's a missing link.

[@Rrr-wu8zj]

This is the “manly” version of a Submariner. Lol. The case is more proportional to the bracelet too, flows just right. It is extremely wearable. It’s thin enough to wear with a dress shirt or suit. The cyclops is useful when I don’t have my glasses and it screams Rolex. This watch is perfection! Can’t imagine anything better made for a man. Submariner is for smaller guys and women. If you have to have an all around watch, this is it.

[@maradona8623]

😂 couldn’t of said it better my friend, love my Seadweller 43

[@kirbyparkwest4392]

Love the early Sea Dweller but just too expensive. A nice 16600 would do it, not a fan of the cyclops.

[@mattpeters6224]

wow. that prediction didn't quite play out. 126600 hottest watch in the rolex line currently.

[@tarjas]

Great video. I love the heritage of the sea dweller that your video very clearly presents. I recently picked up a SD4k and think it is nearly the perfect watch. My SubC 114060 did not have the presence (and date) the SD has and I just can not love the cyclops. Well done!

[@bpentium]

I bought my 4000 sea dweller back in 1988

[@laszloszentirmai2280]

The problem with the modern SDs since 116600 is the incredible popularity of the Submariner. Lot of people do not need a better and and more rugged Sub with 4 times of depth rating and He valve, and an uncomfortable at the office plus mms of thickness (most of Rolex dive watches only see pools at max.). This is why at its age the 116600 SD4K did not sell well. After 3 years Rolex realizes, that this model is one of the less sold Rolexes ever. Than guess what, what they do? They made an SD close to the DeepSea, what makes itself a place in the collection with the size and the extreme saturation diver image, plus the D-Blue version. And the Sea Dweller is between the table and the chair again on the floor... 116600 was by the way the top of the evolution of the SD in terms of refinement and calm design with great technical background. DeepSea is too extreme for most of us, Sub is too common.

[@thefettfan3994]

My only "Wish list Timepiece" is the 2017 Red Sea-Dweller and believe me I do not find it in anyway disappointing at all!!!!

[@eric106071]

hello. I thought you would have mentioned that aytpical to Rolex lume applications weren't circled in white gold.

[@impexRQ]

The best Rolex sea dweller was the 116600 - perfect 40mm - slimmer lugs - non cyclops - ceramic bezel - fully graduated bezel … perfection!!!

[@terryfranks8040]

Yes I've now got a dssd it's amazing watch thanks Armand yet again for your great reviews

[@Ronbo710]

For me the last great one is my SD 16600. I just see no reason for the huge overstatement they have gone too.

[@damachine3]

I have the SD43, 50th anniversary, Res Line. Mk1 dial (true 50th, unlike the Mk2 dials out there). It's my favorite of my collection.

[@thunderlightning9355]

Love my Sea Dweller Cyclops ! There are 2 kinds of Rolex wearers ..Those who have 1 & those who wish they did !

[@mustardfj40]

Everytime Rolex introduced an updated model people complains which reminded me the one who complained about the green 50th Aniversary Submariner when it was introduced in 2004, guess what? The value of that green sub has increased significantly and people who complained are now scrambling to get one for their collection. LOL. Yes they were complaining about the maxi dial, the funny green bezel,...This new 50th Anniversary red Sea Dweller will worth a lots when it's discountined

[@michaelturner7949]

If the Sea-Dweller had just been invented, you would state how attractive it was. The Cyclops is a Rolex signature to ease the reading of the date. You need to embrace the new technology. The watch is made for a function: not for armchair critics, of which, there are too many!

[@neilus0]

All AD's in the U.K. Have long waiting lists for the new Sea Dweller. Looks like it's going to be a big success despite the size and cyclops.

[@Mpayne1472]

They didn’t explode. The Crystal was forced out

[@SPQR-Z]

The 116600 4000m for an affordable investment Rolex SD that is sure to be a sought after future collectors piece. Transitional, low production run, 40mm tapered lugs, Glidelock, Rehaut, ceramic bezel, newer movement, Maxi dial with Chromalight lume. And no cyclops.

[@SB-Kiwi]

My personal feelings are that the 126600 slots in perfectly between the sub and the deepsea. It's a watch for larger wrists but doesn't wear like a hockey puk as the deepsea does. For a bigger fella it wears like a sub and in my eyes at least is absolute perfection. Just my take on it. 👍🏽

[@cotecote9214]

Comex never developed the HEV! It was T walker Lloyd ang Bob Barth that told Rolex to use that thought the US Navy SeaLab Program! It was pioneer such as Scott Carpenter that were the Sea Dwellers ! You skipped over a major part of history on the singer Red also! Those 10 Single Reds were used on the TekTite 1&2 program and never had hev’s ! There is slot more history to the Sea Dweller then you think! Yes the company Comex was apart of Rolex as a partnership but latter on !

[@zioo3117]

This might be the most elegant of all Roex. The simplicity and the balance of the watch without cyclops is without parallel. It is immediately a dressier look. The whole idea of a watch that looks like it slips under the cuff easily and out again without the appearance of cyclops which would visually seem to restrain the watch and make it a curiosity when attempting to use a sport watch with dressier and more formal attire seems too obvious even when submitting to the truth of taste.

[@jakeagusta]

The 126600 Mk1 will rise in value. The Mk2 dial is already out, making the Mk1 a true anniversary 👍🏻 Time will tell 😉

[@portauthority888]

Seriously I don't care what others think. I love the SD43. No regrets buying it.

[@maradona8623]

Same here , I love mine , it’s perfect

[@maradona8623]

Your so wrong Sea dweller 43 is the best Rolex. Sea Dweller is the perfect watch, all my other Rolex’s , Gmts , submariners , Daytona , sit in the safe

[@jameshoward9700]

The king of kings. All things considered (technology and design) the 116600 SD4k is surely the ultimate and the dive watch GOAT! But I do like a Great White from vintage. Cyclops on the SD43 is a travesty (what diver needs to check the date frequently enough to warrant a cyclops?!) and proof that Rolex lost its way with the SD: RIP refined, functional elegance... hello fashion and emerging markets. Say it ain't so.

[@Lamar-wq7jj]

So annoying and confusing..too much useless details and bahblah

[@craigfalconer8699]

You say "uh" a great deal. Rendering your video unwatchable for me, unfortunately.

[@yc4405]

You’re wrong. The SD43 is the best watch ever made by Rolex. Perfect proportions. 40mm is just too small.

[@harishnair2826]

Don't be dumb.

[@harishnair2826]

Don't be dumb

[@Browny-z9m]

Sd43 best ever rolex. THE END

[@neilus0]

All AD's in the U.K. Have long waiting lists for the new Sea Dweller. Looks like it's going to be a big success despite the size and cyclops.