Stranger Things Pro and LE adjustments

Watch here for ways to make your stranger things play better!
UPDATE 2021: you want to get the ball so it’s barely missing that black post behind the right drop target. With all the drops up, it might hit the right most drop. That’s fine. Put the power at 30, and most of the kicks from the saucer should go around the loop pretty fast. PLEASE NOTE. SHOOTING AROUND RHE BIB LOOP IS NOT THE INTENDED BEHAVIOR OF THE DESIGNER. I JUST PREFER THE GAMEPLAY THIS WAY.

[@GearheadDaily]

Thank you for this... I have a later Pro build and even though it was used and went through a dealer who played it, mine was totally out of wack. The tabs on the each R and L outlanes weren't adjustable enough so I had to bend them ever so slightly. FYI for whomever might need that info. The left kicker needed a ton of adjustment and power set to 30.

[@RobKnapp1]

Thanks for this !!! Be safe out there .

[@mike7599]

Awesome video. Used your advice to adjust my saucer shot. Works great for a few games but then always seems to vibrate itself out of adjustment. Also I wish someone would make a replacement magnet lock diverter post. They should have made it a skinny ramp instead of a round bar the ball has to ride up.

[@chuckwurt]

Mike7599 make sure the nuts on the saucer hood are nice and tight or your adjustment will wiggle itself loose. The shot will never 100% go around the burn it back but you should get it to do it most of the time especially if the right most drop is down. The lock diverter works okay if you follow the stern PDF adjustments EXACTLY while also completely removing the screw from the snug plate on the backboard. See here and here. pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/35#post-5472488. pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/98#post-5767746

[@mike7599]

Thanks man. I’ll make sure to tighten those nuts down. Do you recommend loctite? I’ve followed that pdf to the T and I just never can get it right. Once in a blue moon (a very very blue moon!) if I get the perfect shot full blast I’ll get it to stick up there. But more often than not it rides up the post, loses momentum and then the post disengages and it just rolls around the rest of the loop without sticking to the wall. I have the snug screw pretty loose but I’ll try your advice and remove it.

[@chuckwurt]

Mike7599 trust me. There’s been lots of people that thought they followed the instructions to a T and didn’t after they double and triple checked. Another key factor is not only removing the snug screw but loosening all the screws for the entrance half of the left ramp, including the ramp flap screws, pushing the ramp towards the front of the game, then tightening them back down. The further the ramp is away from that back wall the better.

[@mike7599]

I think you are right on. I did notice that I can’t get the diverter post centered in the cutout of the ramp like you suggested. To me the only way to do this is by moving the ramp forward. I followed the PDFs instructions on moving the ramp but had no luck. There was almost no wiggle room. Maybe it’s because I only had the snug screw loose? With it completely removed hopefully I’ll have some better luck. I’ll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for the advice and for responding i appreciate it!

[@chuckwurt]

Mike7599 exactly. Taking that screw out actually let’s the ramp move away from the wall. Loosening the screws and physically pulling it away from the wall allows for it even more. Good luck!

[@mattjensen2575]

I don't see anything in the ST Premium manual about adjusting the TK lock. Any pointers?

[@chuckwurt]

@@mattjensen2575 your mech may be a bit different if it’s a new run premium, but all this still applies. pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stranger-things-club-join-our-party/page/35#post-5472488

[@svenop]

What pitch are you set at? I'm trying to dial in the saucer looping and I have the angle correct but it just rattles between the two guides. I've tried lowering and raising power also. Just can't get it to feed smoothly around it rattles and falls back down

[@chuckwurt]

Remember this is a hack against what the designer intended. It’s just a lucky adjustment I made and seems to work for most. My pitch was having the bubble just a tad past the top black line. Good luck!

[@svenop]

@@chuckwurt I bent the left guide in that pathway (the guide running behind the post) back a bit and that seemed to help reduce the rattling and getting some of them to get around now

[@whitefishNsable]

Great video. Thank you for posting this. What is the size of the Larger rubber you put on the gate post? (So the ball kicks out and doesn't land on the sling)

[@chuckwurt]

whitefishNsable not totally sure. I buy Titan rings in bulk so I just got into my big and threw something on. Wider than stock though. Just a tad. The more important thing is to adjust your guide and level your game so the ball grazes the shooter lane gate as it comes down. Then if it’s a sloppy feed that extra rubber helps feed the left flipper for a dead bounce or a drop catch.

[@whitefishNsable]

Thank you for the help. I really appreciate it. Do you currently have your game leveled perfectly in the center or are your left legs higher than the right? For the lane guide on the right orbit, is that just the 1 screw that is located about 1/2 inch above the gate? By any chance do you have an extra of that bigger rubber you used that I can purchase from you. Sorry If these are a lot of questions, I am new to pinball. Thank you very much sir. @@chuckwurt

[@chuckwurt]

whitefishNsable my game leans a hair to the left so when the ball is released by the post to the left orbit the post doesn’t hit the ball when it comes back up. The right orbit lane guide is held down but a couple screws. Take off the ramp and the plastic that is right next to the lane guide and you’ll see them easily. Loosen those and adjust the guide accordingly.

[@morelfamily5826]

@@whitefishNsable Did you ever find that rubber for the post?