Stripped, cross-threaded threads on Shimano bleed port - Fix

[@ivanradoszyce8183]

Great video again Pav. I wish Shimano had a metal female like you created.

[@Di2_GP]

Maybe one day... I tired many options before I have settled on this method. I tried thread inserts, Helcoil, etc, but they all seem to be either to big, or don't come in size M7. Well if there is enough interest, maybe someone can make these on large scale and at affordable price.

[@stuartwatson2279]

Great video - super helpful! Only issue that I had was after threading the tube, the plug didn't seem to like the pitch. I took out a pitch gauge and it looks like it's probably closer to M7 x 0.75 or 0.8.

[@Di2_GP]

@stuartwatson2279 Hi, yes, you're correct. The thread on the bleed cap is 0.75. However, I could not cut that thread in the alloy tube. I will post an update to this video, I have purchased a brass tube instead. 0.75 tap works well with a brass tube.

[@Di2_GP]

@@stuartwatson2279 as alloy tube I used is very pliable, 1mm threads seem to deform to work with shimano bleed cap.

[@siezrobi]

1. Use Schrader valve from an old inner tube (External thread 7.7mm OD, thread root diameter is 6.9mm) 2. Make an M5 internal thread 3. Cut to the appropriate length 4. Use M5 bleeding screw (no oryginal M7 for shimano 105) 5. Screw in without drilling then unscrew and use glue ...sorry for my English

[@Di2_GP]

Great tip, I'll certainly try it. Thanks

[@MarioKurill]

Superb job mate, very well explained!

[@Di2_GP]

Thanks a lot!

[@hoim75]

Like always, super clear and great job ! I would love to see all the process! Can't wait your new set up video ;) !

[@Di2_GP]

Thank you! I will make an update, just waiting for some new tools. When I'm confident it works I will make part two.

[@klein-concept]

Amazing idea and great explanation. Thanks a lot.

[@Di2_GP]

Thank you

[@jacksmale7036]

Amazing video - just stripped my threads doing a bleed... annoying - not sure if the tools I will need to buy will justify it.

[@Di2_GP]

I would start by trying 12 speed bleed caps. They are longer. It may be just what you need.

[@fenwick458]

@@Di2_GP I got a pair of titanium screws from aliexpress branded "risk", they are much longer than even the 12sp, they have worked for 6 months but I need to change my bars so I'm going to have to do the proper repair as I don't think the threads would seal properly after bleeding the brakes again

[@hmudesign]

Another excellent installment from master Pav. Love your videos. I did something similar a couple of times, but instead of using outside threads, I just used a straight tube but scored it up a bit so it would grip the glue. First time I did this I punctured the bladder inside with my drill. I think using threaded outer like you probably works better, although the straight tube works just fine. Thanks again for an excellent video. I’d love to see some battery related videos, but no rush :), I didn’t manage to solve some of those. Something seems to go wrong at the circuit level :s

[@Di2_GP]

Thank you, I think having an extra layer of safety thru external threads is alway better. Also I take shifter and bladder apart anyway, just to be sure I can clean any debris, or glue. Batteries are coming soon, I know I have been saying that for a while ;-) But if has finally stopped raining in the UK, so I get a chance to ride my bike, and that takes priority :-)

[@hmudesign]

@@Di2_GP lovely, riding takes priority of course. Enjoy and tide safe my friend.

[@basil_the_beagle]

Thanks for sharing! Another amazing video!

[@Di2_GP]

Thanks again!

[@bradallen8643]

Great work. Loving your vids.

[@Di2_GP]

Thank you!

[@hubertsk]

I read somewhere that some Shimano shifters like GRX have M7x0.75 thread. Make sure you're using the correct tap :)

[@Di2_GP]

I have M7x0.75 tap, and it doesn't fit to brand new shifter. I'm not sure if I have 'faulty tap' or Shimano is using a different standard. However, using M7x1.0 worked for me. It's not perfect, but the insert has such thin walls that they mould to the bleed cap threads during the first installation.

[@gerbryf]

I need to do this for one lever. Thanks!

[@Di2_GP]

Great, hopefully the repair will go smoothly

[@raphaelgurgel9797]

Hi, friend! I have a problem with the brake horse flare nut STI thread. I damaged the thread by tightening the screw misaligned. I was surprised how easy it is to make this mistake. Is there any way to fix this? Is it possible to replace this thread? Thanks!

[@Di2_GP]

Hi, there is not much material around threads, and because of high pressure end, I would not recommend trying to fix it. I would suggest finding a broken shifter, or only shifter body and swapping it over. Sorry I could not help, but certain things aren't worth a risk, especially if that is your front brake.

[@raphaelgurgel9797]

Yes! You are right! I'm thinking use a Helicoil 9mm. The external diameter is 10.6mm. May be it is so large. Thank you!

[@achapela1]

@@Di2_GP Oh! I was thinking about a similar problem as I have corrosion on that thread. So your idea about swapping a broken shifter to get the body... even could I use Dura Ace parts on Ultegra body?

[@Di2_GP]

@@achapela1 Yes, Ultegra ST - R8070 and Dura-Ace ST-R9170 are dimensionally the same, they're made from the same materials too. The only difference is the model number moulded on the side. With 12 speed Ultegra and Dura-Ace is easier as bodies are identical between those two :-)

[@jakethesnake1976]

Not sure why you are tapping M6 first? M7 tap needs a 6.0mm drill only. Also drill out port 7.75mm first for M9 tap👍

[@Di2_GP]

Hi, mainly because the quality of the tube is not great and wall thickness is uneven. M6 and M7 taps are stretching and deforming walls with a minimal cut. As to 7.75mm drill, I use standard drill bits. I'm doing it in my shed, with tools available to me and most people. With 1 mm wall thickness and M7 ID and M9 OD, you'd end up with a spring rather than an insert. It's not perfect, but it does a job for me.

[@Gledii]

thanks for sharing. any sugestion on how to remove a striped bleed screw? the damn thing is like butter, even being cautios, i managed to stripped and cant get out. i saw one idea of making a small cut and use a screwdiver but do you know anything more easy/reliable? thanks a lot

[@Di2_GP]

I have mentioned rounded off bleed cap removal in my video about shifter problems. You can check or, I'll link it later. But option number 1 would be to try tapping in a T8 torx. If that doesn't help. I'd carefully make an incision with a dremel, this will heat up slightly the alloy bleed cap, so it should make it easier to remove. But don't cut too much at one go as you can melt plastic body.

[@Di2_GP]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYTXiXqCaqaInZY from 0:27. Also consider buying 105 R7020 bled screws , as they are made of steel. Plenty available online - Y0F398030

[@Gledii]

@@Di2_GP thank you, just did

[@bikingchupei2447]

0:06 i've heard the more common issue is overtightening the brake hose flare nut and cracking the plastic surrounding it.

[@Di2_GP]

Yes, I've seen quite a few of those. But I'm not confident that this can be repaired. At least I haven't found a way I'd be confident with.

[@bikingchupei2447]

@@Di2_GP yeah, i don't think so either, i was so afraid of this issue i went out of my way to find a 8mm crowfoot wrench to go with my torque wrench to be extra sure i don't overtighten it.

[@Di2_GP]

@bikingchupei2447 These days, a torque wrench is a must-have. Bike parts are too expensive 😭 😫 😑

[@philipmurray2132]

How about a DI2 Battery repair video?

[@Di2_GP]

I'll make one, but the success rate is very low. It all depends on how quickly you can catch it. If it's water ingress/damage, you have hope. If it's dead, chip on early BTN batteries, I don't have a solution

[@philipmurray2132]

@@Di2_GP I have generally had one of two the batteries fail

[@Di2_GP]

@philipmurray2132 which model? Did it die instantly or degraded over time?

[@philipmurray2132]

@@Di2_GP the BT-DN110 X 2 degraded over time(needed more regular charging

[@KlausDeutscher]

Warning: The actual threading of the reservoir screws is M7x0.75. Its better to use this thread instead of the M7x1.0 to prevent damage again.

[@Di2_GP]

Thank you for the warning, but despite my best efforts I was unable to tap M7x0.75 threads. I would appreciate if you could share demonstration of cutting M7x0.75 thread in 8mm OD aluminium tube.