STRONG and FULLY 3D Printed Arms for your Ender 3 KE and SE

You'll want this upgrade for your Ender 3 V3 KE and SE!
Help support this channel! / needitmakeit
This is the 5th video on this printer, we're nearly there with the upgrades to get this printer printing like a dream, and one thing that's been bothering me is the amount of flex in the posts and vibration I was seeing during printing. There have been a lot of complaints about how square the posts are to the bed, so I thought it was worth a closer look to see if we can fix both problems at once.
The goal was to come up with something that looks good, add the rigidity that we need and also allows some adjustment.
You'll need to use this upgrade as well if you haven't already:
• Attach ANYTHING to you...
Printed Parts:
makerworld.com/en/models/4248...
Hardware:
M3 x 5mm (10pcs) Heat Set Inserts - Into Arms
M3 x 20mm (10pcs) Button Head MS - Secure Arms to Adapters
M3 x 10mm or 12mm (10pcs) Button Head MS - Outboard Adapter
M5 x 20mm (2pcs) Button Head MS - Inner Arm to Long Arms
M5 Locknut (2pcs) -Inner to Long Arms
You can reuse the stock screws for the motor adapter and lower post adapter
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
QIDI **Q1 PRO** qidi3d.com/products/q1-pro?sc...
BAMBU PRINTERS -shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS - shrsl.com/4aghy
#crealityEnder3
#crealityk1
#Ender3

[@YouBetterCallSaul]

Legend has it he’s still adding those M5 locknuts 😂

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Still working at getting them in, the curse of the round fingers...

[@PaulMorel-CA]

I'm loving this KE / SE series, as someone who just got a Ender 3 V3 SE as his first printer, the timing couldn't have been better. I didn't think I'd enjoy tinkering with the printer.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's great! I have probably 2 more videos coming for this printer, maybe 3. The goal is to get this printer to a point where it can compete with just about any bed slinger, or maybe just maybe some CoreXYs as well. I like to tinker, no doubt, I love the challenge and I like to design, so it's all good for me. Making the videos really slows down the process, but hey... what can ya do?

[@ej-1030]

Just got one my self I love my new hobby

[@stew675]

I really like that circular action locking joint. I've never really come across it before, but it seems to be an excellent approach. Love your work!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'm not sure if I'm the first person to do this, what I was shooting for was a joint that could not come apart in the direction that the loads were applied, it happens to look really good too. I think it just could have been a tiny bit tighter, I was using 0.08mm clearance, and I needed 0.05mm instead for the perfect fit. Such a small difference but with those shallow angled tapers, that's all you need to make it work. I'm making a video about it to share how I did it in more detail and we're of course going to test the joint as well, since it's fun to break things to learn.

[@chatroux399]

Beautiful work with nice connection between each parts !

[@802Garage]

Oof those curved sliding dovetails are so satisfying. Pretty extensive mod, but very beefy and industrial looking! As always, fun to see your iterative process. And now we can add the M5 lock nuts. ;)

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It was more challenging than I expected! What came out of it was a few innovative ideas that might be useful. A fun project and it looks great, unfortunately I still need to work on the extruder and that's even more challenging. I was having so much trouble with that nut, the other side went in first-try.

[@MarkoVukovic0]

Amazing! Thank you so much for all your hard work on these mods. Greetings from a 3D printer KE n00b in South Africa.

[@daniello5912]

I've had my KE since January and I made a similar fixture back in February with 15mm aluminum rods and fixtures that attache on top of the gantry and below the base through those tiny M3 screws under. Cool to see a fully 3d printed version! Adding these fixtures for sure improves the print quality quite a bit.

[@Lany531]

What size were the rods? Do you have a file for the printed parts? I have access to breass and aluminum rods.

[@MakerMindset]

Always top notch designs. I always learn something new from you. Keep it up!!😉

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thank you very much, I try to add some little fun tricks in there, just some neat ideas that maybe other people could find useful!

[@typicallucas]

that's a really cool design, I especially liked the curved dovetail joint upgrading a 3D printer with printed parts gives a special kind of satisfaction.

[@zacharysmith8397]

Made a similar structure a few weeks ago for my KE and honestly the biggest improvement was when I finally printed a mod to get the spool off the top

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Nice, that spool on the top wobbling around like it just don't care

[@TheNewBloodDan]

The rotating dove tails is such a clever idea!

[@pascaldarantiere9823]

Superbe travail de modélisation et de conception, bravo

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Merci Beaucoup Mon ami!

[@creativeleodaily]

filament color looks beautiful

[@philj1975]

Thank you so much for your hard work. I'm looking to get a KE soon. Saved all your series ready. 👏👏👏

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's great, thanks for the support. If I may ask, are you set on this printer or are you open to other options?

[@philj1975]

@NeedItMakeIt no, I'm open to any suggestions. Please thank you. I thought the KE because I want something future proof a little, I can improve, and also, from what i see and read, Klipper is the board to have. Buy the SE and extras to KE spec come out able the same. But and suggestions great fully received. 👍

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@philj1975 At this point there is so much competition, that I wouldn't go with a bed slinger, they're very limiting on what you can produce, a CoreXY enclosed printer if far more capable, and produces better results. The QIDI Q1 Pro is an excellent printer for the price, it may be the best overall that I've found so far, with the Bambu X1C/P1 series printers also competing for top spot. The X1C is far more expensive of course. The QIDI Q1 Pro has features that the other printers don't have and will give you lots of options for later on. I have a video review of the QIDI Q1 already to show how it performs. If you have a moment, check that one out and see what you think.

[@philj1975]

@NeedItMakeIt i have looked at this one as well, but I will have to wait as not available in the EU yet. I'll wait and see then that it's. It is a nice machine and I do like it as well. Thank you for help and option @NeedItMakeIt

[@Evo_Spec]

The amount of work you're putting into the KE is crazy. I thought the KE was going to be great for me but after watching your KE upgrade series, I think I'm just going to get an A1 or P1S even though I don't necessarily agree with their business model.

[@nitustefan1998]

I was sctually looking for a nice set of braces! Thank you!

[@YaBoyMikeyG]

The joints you did on the red parts are so cool lol

[@sierraecho884]

Good design, well done

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks, it seems like people also wanted a steel rod version, I was shooting for a solution for everyone, and I guess you can't please them all.

[@sierraecho884]

@@NeedItMakeIt There are 1000x ways to reach a goal. You have shown one way. Sure you can also show a steel rod version in combination with 3D print. You can also do a "forged" carbon fiber version or a wood version. I mean in the end the question is what is the stiffness you really need and how much money and effort it should cost ? I am sure with a metal or carbon fiber version the stiffness would be greater but is it really worth it though ? What you can do is... are you familiar with the "Morphological box" ? You can brainstrom some ideas like different geometries and materials and combine them to see what would be best. Show your viewers what you considered and what you disproved of and why. I do this too as an internal dialogue, you can show this in a matrix overview and choose YOUR path but this way I could have a visual representation of your design decision. Since you are very active with your viewers you might want to clue them in maybe they can come up with their own ideas ? Maybe you come up with the ideas and they create a combination ? something like that. Do you know what I mean? Should I make an example ?

[@drainboy]

thank you for all these!! the ender 3 v3 ke is my first 3d printer and all these mods will definitely help make the printer better. i have already bought the parts for linear rail and looking forward to install it during the summer break

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Nice, I'll have at least 2 more videos for this printer, one for the plate replacement for under the bed, and the other for the extruder. I'll need to do some final results as well in those videos, unfortunately I can't do it until the other problems are solved.

[@user-2df90a0z1]

Mike is MY HERO!!! I will name my first born after MIKE!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

HAHA, well thank you very much, but I'm only trying to solve problems and post them to help anyone with the same problems.

[@MikeKasprzak]

Nice! I've been staring at the kits on AliExpress that do the same thing, but I like that you could just print one (something I hadn't considered, lol).

[@jamievalentin1193]

I'm considering the new Ender 3 V3 with metal frame. I'm guessing it's going to be stiffer and a better machine, but it's great to see your solution. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos.

[@TheWillys]

Nice upgrade. In the future, I will make it for my Ender 3 v3 se, but for now, I have other upgrades to make as linear x and input shaper. But when I upgrade the x stepper to reach high speeds, I will definitively make it.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

nice!

[@sek561]

Thanks for that thing, amazing design. If there is nothing similar on the internet, or anything made with rods, than i litterality had a dream about this while sleeping.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks, I've tried to come up with something that solves the problem, looks good and it's too expensive. I went through a few design changes to get to this point, ,and it turned out nice. It's not as simple to install, but if I can do it multiple times without losing the rest of my hair, I'm sure it's not too bad for anyone else. That's funny you had a dream about it, I also have dreams of 3D printing, it's probably a sign that we have a bit of a problem :)

[@sek561]

@@NeedItMakeItnice sprinkle of self irony, I think when dreams come to reality is amazing. Keep your printers printing, channel pumping, ideas flowing and maybe hairs growing.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@sek561 You've got it! More blood flow to the brain must mean hair growth... I'm onto the next video already, and I have at least 10 more planned after that, the problem is that every time I have a conversation I get more ideas. I think the best way to solve the problem is to learn to make videos on a subject far faster.

[@kveldsmusikk2898]

Love your experiense :) I got my first 3d printer about one week ago. a Ender 3 KE. Soon found the wobbeling problem. But come to a different, but not nearly as fleksible/elegant solution. But much faster, cheeper, simpler. The problem seems to be the weight of the spool. So by simply put the spool on a fixture on the wall, above the printer, improved a lot... But of course, that means that the printer is stationary... And yes, there will be some wobbeling still, but FAR less. The upgrade with linear rails. That will I do thoug

[@soccerpaintball6881]

Excellent video did the print quality improve I am not happy with the print quality of my under 3 V3 SE I hope this will improve the quality of my print also I want to be sure that this kit will work on the SE thank you for your time

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'll have 2 more videos coming for this printer, I still have an extrusion related problem, I need to figure out if it's the extruder or if it's the current coming to the extruder motor or perhaps something else. It's funny that it was my first thought that the extruder was the problem and after upgrading everything else, I'm coming right back to it. I believe the SE and KE printers have the same frame/base the steel plate below the bed on the SE has larger cutouts and it doesn't run Klipper unless you have the sonic pad I believe. This upgrade should work well with the SE, but if there are any changes, just let me know and I can adjust as needed.

[@bobeaston1389]

@@NeedItMakeIt Your first thought was its the extruder. So you did everything but fix the extruder? Your right it is funny.

[@jjptech]

Finally something to praise my old bulky CR-10v3 cow for bringing that from factory

[@user-jk3ij6mf7f]

Very cool!!! Thanks!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

You're welcome!

[@vlottech]

would love to see some benchmarks between before and after the brackets. Definitely considering doing this aswell

[@christiandrouin9460]

Nice work. Creality needs to hire you as a consultant!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'd be happy to do product testing for them, I am doing it anyway, it's just far too late in the game.

[@johniveson6308]

the ender 3 s1 needs this

[@vica153]

Bolted joints at the ends and added that brace to the arm, but then there's a simple glued joint right in the middle of the primary arm. That curved dovetail is very cool, but you should make it long enough to add a thru bolt like the ends. The added brace is 4 additional parts and more disassembly of the printer and likely negligible improvement to the primary arm. One single arm per side would achieve the same result with much less effort. If there is deflection in that long arm, then it could be better solved with larger cross section in the middle.

[@illich1010]

Got the KE today, will definitely do arms on later, thanks.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Nice, let me know how it goes and also if you're seeing any extrusion related issues like I've shown in the previous videos, I want to know if this is something that only I have a problem with, or is this everyone.

[@illich1010]

@@NeedItMakeIt linear shafts artifacts?

[@snaplash]

Needs before and after prints to see if the braces really made any difference.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Unfortunately this is a series and the extrusion issues are next on the list, so before and after would be underwhelming, they'll come when I can fix the extrusion issues once and for all.

[@bobeaston1389]

@@NeedItMakeIt i was wondering the same thing . Unfortunately your answer tells me you don't know if it improved anything because you chose to correct minor problem instead of the the most important part of your printer. Or you invested a ton of time making mod and video and the results were not worth showing. Either way i'm disappointed I watched it. Dovetails were cool tho make a tutorial on how you designed them I see in comment everyone loves em

[@bobeaston1389]

I did visit your page and subscribed cause there is lots of cool stuff including the tutorial i suggested without looking first. egg on my face. I'm sorry this video was my first introduction to ur channel.

[@alannguyen5050]

I would love a linear rail conversion video for a K1 or K1C if possible!

[@norealnameno739]

@NeedItMakeIt, hey! Thank you for great video. Could you please share 3d design howto for these rotating dovetails? I've seen video about frame build with dovetails - it was great, but these seems much more complicated. And I'm sure you have much more 3d design for printing tips up your sleeve.

[@3DandTeePrinting]

This is a much needed upgrade to the SE and KE. I Braced my SE a few months ago and saw drastic improvements. My KE has been fine but will definitely be using the Ecosystem your creating. My SE is a variety of different upgrades you seem to be making one by one for the KE/SE. The linear rail swap on x and Y setup and gantry brace are the best upgrades that showed the best print quality improvements. Plus the new flowtech instsll and now it's an awesome machine rather than a cheap budget printer.

[@mentatsolutions1101]

this is just so incredibly complex. Threaded rod connected from the top of the frame to the body allows infinite adjustment to get the frame square and stop any movement. Also get rid of the spool from the top of the frame that's just stupid having it up there adding extra weight and "sway" to the frame

[@_ShadowT77]

Can you explain how to make these adjustments to get the frame square?

[@vahpr]

We have similarly equipped shops, including what looks to me like a NYW woodworking bench😀 Love that curved sliding dovetail, very cool. Were those crossfeed nuts there at the end?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Nice! Little by little I'm working on upgrading my shop, most of my woodworking tools are pretty old, but still work just fine. I recently bought that nice bench, it needs a bit of TLC and a filler for the tool holder slot so I can use the whole bench on occasion, but it's super handy. I'd recommend a bench like that over an ordinary bench on wheels any day. You've got it right! Those are the cross-slide and compound nuts from my Southbend 9A Lathe. The cross-slide is terribly worn, both the nut and the screw. I have a new screw, now I'm working towards either getting a new set made, or trying to do it myself.... Buying them is so expensive for what you get, but without them, using a sloppy lathe is just no fun.

[@TheoreticalCyclist]

You should relocate the spool holder next to the pronter, there will be less weight on the top of the frame causing wobble.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I agree, with this printer the runout sensor needs to be relocated to the extruder so that the filament doesn't need to first loop up on top and then down to the extruder, but that's possible for sure.

[@fredydefcon1]

great work my friend, I'm thinking about buying the new Ender 3 V3 Plus, I hope this aspect is resolved because it already includes arms to avoid this effect.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thank you! I have one of the smaller new E3V3 printers with the metal frame, which I've been testing and they've fixed just about every problem. I'm still having one little issue and it's not bad, but the extrusion seems to be not quite as consistent as I think it should be. Maybe I've been spoiled by the QIDI Q1 and the Bambu X1C. I have more testing to do as well, but I think it might be related to the extruder design, it is still only supported on one side of the extruder gears, allowing some movement, it's very hard to know since I'd need a glass panel to see what's going on inside.

[@fredydefcon1]

@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for the feedback, I will continue to follow

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@fredydefcon1 Sounds good! I'll have a full review video on the printer, I'm trying to learn a bit more about the extrusion before I finish it up.

[@fredydefcon1]

@@NeedItMakeIt ok I can't wait for the review 😃

[@Xailow]

It'd be nice to see before and after pictures of parts printed at the same speed

[@NeedItMakeIt]

For sure! I will do this in an upcoming video, unfortunately I have yet to fix the extrusion issues and any tests would not show definitive results until that problem is corrected.

[@thomasnixon4440]

The CAD work on this is great (there's a lot of interesting details), but I really don't get the design or overall idea. The attachment point at the top can slide (it's tight now, but for how long?), and I assume that's why you added the brace into the corner. The effect of the corner brace depends on the bending stiffness rather than tension/compression, which is inefficient, and requires adjustment because it's over-constrained. IMO it would have been better to find a way to attach the top mount rigidly to the frame (say, a couple of set-screws). This would provide the necessary adjustment to get it square, and you wouldn't need the corner brace. Anyway, have some engagement :)

[@NeedItMakeIt]

For sure, it's by no means perfect, and if someone wants to modify it by adding a set-screw or bolt the top adapters through, by all means, perhaps even gluing them in place. The lower they are the better control you have over the angle, and it looks far better than strapping something on top. It would have been better to make this from carbon rod or steel or even aluminum. The goal was to provide this to everyone regardless of their level. I've suggested that this be made from ABS/PC PETG-CF because of their stiffness, PLA in an enclosure wouldn't be wise. Great points, thanks for your thoughts!

[@ebahns]

I printed a side spool holder for my filament. No more extra weight up top now

[@TheRealStructurer]

I did the same 👍🏻

[@paranoiia8]

I had similar issue with other printer. I took 3$ aluminium bar, mesured it, cut it, drill it and screw it in. Around 30min work and it looked like it was there from the start.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Sounds great! Sadly with this printer there are no good places to screw it into, but the bar idea is a good solution and maybe have 3D printed end pieces to receive it.

[@alexanderzawydiwski9534]

Yep I think I’m going to have to do this to mine because when printing fast and the head starts moving higher the whole gantry starts wobbling back-and-forth like crazy and causing Leylines

[@ricardohnn]

Can you show a before and after pieces?

[@TNX255]

Nice! Next make a version that fits the Ender 3 S1 Pro, please, thanks 😇 (One can dream...)

[@beav1962]

Seems like turnbuckle nuts in there somewhere would allow fine adjustment. Still a cool project.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I soooo wanted to create some 3d printed versions, but it would have increased the complexity level, great idea through! Maybe I need to put some time into a 3d printed turnbuckle?

[@beav1962]

@@NeedItMakeIt - I would think a couple of threaded ends and then the turnbuckle nut would be fine somewhere within the printed long support. Then maybe print a snap cover to hide the hardware and make it blend in. I am not criticizing by any means....it just popped into my head when you said people have said there are differences in the gaps.

[@komiteunofficialaccount9224]

This is bonkers, good job. I wonder though, at what point are we better off getting a better printer off the factory?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks! You're better off getting a better printer from the start, I'd suggest a CoreXY, there are so many benefits. This series is really meant for anyone with these printers already and it can provide some solutions or some ideas anyway. I don't think bed slingers make much sense these days, moving a massive bed at high speed won't be able to compete with moving a small-ish head and rods on the CoreXY.

[@802Garage]

If you already own it, can't exactly hit Ctrl+Z!

[@rodgertaylor3204]

As much I appreciate your idea but, creality have released the se,ke,v3 in what 6 or so months without any stabiliser support. Yet now they bring out v3 plus with gantry stabliers . Which for those that have the other printers could feel hard done by not thinking of doing this to the SE,KE,V3. Unless they can come with upgrade for them, which they could.cos they obviously have for the v3 plus.

[@mickafr4519]

Hi, thanks for another great video! Personally I already have a reinforcement, I found the model before your video, but it is true that it can greatly help especially at high speed. In your opinion, what speed and acceleration should be used for PLA, PETG and ABS/AS to get maximum print quality? Print speed is not a problem for me. Thanks in advance for your help :)

[@kimmotoivanen]

Could you make a video of how you design the dovetails for this and Qidi Pro bed frame? They look nice :)

[@joell439]

I too would like to see this dovetail design. 👍😎👍

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I just so happen to have a video in-the-works at this very moment, I've had a few requests so I shall show you how and then you can take it from there. It's a super nice joint and it doesn't need much clearance compared to a non-tapered joint. That video is probably going to be for mid-week next week or next weekend!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Sure can, and I am making the video right now, I've had several requests to show how it's done, it's pretty straight forward, but I'm going to show you a few different options and you can pick which ones work best for you.

[@JustKeepLivingFPV]

I was going to do this however after I rotated the spool 90° the shaking is not as bad, also after i updated the input with the g sensor it has begun countering its vibration better.

[@Reds3DPrinting]

OMG I wanna make these for my v3 just because of how cool they look... ALSO the v3 will now be the only ender without support rods/arms :*(

[@NeedItMakeIt]

That's true, the metal framed V3 seems pretty stiff, I can't say whether that'll be the case for the Plus-sized model though. There are some free threaded holes on the back of the metal frame though... maybe it could get an upgrade at some point. I'd want to do it in metal... or perhaps wood though.

[@Reds3DPrinting]

@@NeedItMakeIt That would be super neat to see! Do you think wood would better help with Vibrations??

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@Reds3DPrinting It depends on the type of wood, something like maple, or ash, anything hard would work well. Even though I'm a Woodworker, I don't show it much because it's not really something everyone can do, but if you think it would be interesting, I can try to include it in some videos. The combo of printing and wood is super appealing and I love the look of the combo, especially black prints with something with some nice grain, like Cherry.

[@CalvinBarnard-ky4wz]

Great video! Just out of curiosity, have you found the solution to the poor print quality on the KE? Been having very similar print quality to your previous videos

[@petersilva4242]

That looks like a hercus or Southend cross slide nut you printed at the front end

[@NeedItMakeIt]

You've got it! Southbend 9A I'm trying to decide if I want to get the cross-slide and compound nuts made up or if I can do it myself and I wanted to print them first to get the fit close and to understand the ACME sizes they've used. They are unfortunately non-standard sizes these days. We have 3/8-10 and 7/16-10 ACME, except the pitch diameters don't seem to match anything commonly available these days. I've been thinking about doing some bronze/brass casing and machining new ones myself, but that's going to be hard for me at my amateurish metal working level.

[@phredka12]

Pytanie po co komplikować. Skoro można użyć prętu gwintowanego, kilku kątowników metalowych, i do gięcie pod wymaganym kontem oraz skręcić śrubami. Kolejnym ważnym aspektem jest mała płyta betonowa do której przymocowana jest drukarka sztywno, i to bardzo pomaga a może nawet zdecydowanie bardziej niż usztywnienie ramienia

[@mijaiscares8580]

Did u solve the problems related to under extrusion on this machine?

[@fatihaydn2319]

How is the CR-10 SE model? I searched for your previous videos but couldn't find a review for it. CR-10 SE has liner rails in both axes. I wonder if it is better than the ender 3 v3 ke model. Can you share your ideas please?

[@EarthquakeCL]

Hola, en mi caso tenia mas desviacion en los perfiles, pero no queria perforar y dañar la impresora por garantia, asi que hice el diseño de Hapedevee thing:6516352 y logre cuadrar, luego nivele la cama con ciertos oring (Pero use el Remix que es mas facil sujetar) printables 733411 y logre tener mi cama casi todo a 0.0

[@EarthquakeCL]

I use in a V3 SE

[@boss939__]

could i use pla for this ang get the same results?

[@timoburgi3784]

Great video, but if you go to this extend, why not make the arms go both to the front and back ? maybe its a little over kill but it would probably stop the wobble completely

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks, sure, it's possible and I don't think it would be too hard, it didn't occur to me at the time TBH. Good idea though!

[@robertpearson1981]

Do u happen to sell both of the upgrades I like both the upgrades you did.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I don't really do prints for other people, with shipping and material etc. it isn't justifiable at this time. I'm sure there are sites you can have models printed from someone local. If there isn't a site like that, there should be so you can save on shipping.

[@kraiwich-vic]

Can it's use with ender 3v2 ?

[@bastilorbes2220]

I’d like to know if z wobble is a problem with your ke since it’s been a real trouble and consistent problem of my ke

[@Juiblex]

Is it also valid for cr-10 se or is it necessary?

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

10:00 "Go their own way" SuperVinlin

[@NeedItMakeIt]

You can go your own way, go your own waaay.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

​@@NeedItMakeIt you can call it anoooooother lonely daAay

[@hugore293]

Where can I find the printed bed slinger? The only problem I'm having with the printer atm is a kinda uneven layer height I have both the linear rails and gantry supports

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Do you mean the replacement for the steel plate below the bed? If so, I have to fine-tune a few details and then I'll be ready to release it to everyone.

[@Nedeles]

If you dont use a trypod and put the 2 versions side by side, i dont think i could tell a difference

[@michaelstraughn3465]

Think I'll buy a Bambu 3d printer, the same time I buy the v3, so I can go ahead and fix the new v3

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It's tough to pickup on sarcasm here, I'll assume that was your goal. You can do as you please, I'd tend to want to wait for the next gen of Bambu printers though. The reason for these videos is to help people who have purchased this printer and require solutions to make it more reliable. If you weren't aware, I have lots of videos showing the issues with this printer and I've done what I can to find solutions. Have a good one.

[@rmfberry261]

what is it called the rule of 3.that third. now add the m5 lcoknuts had me chucking

[@tombeam]

Have youthought of doing a 90 degree bearinged spool holder?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I think that's a great idea, I'm trying to get back to this printer, I have to fix the extrusion issue and I have an extruder now, but I need to finish up a few more videos first.

[@frankdearr2772]

👍👍👍

[@30dimos]

beutiful

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I would recommend getting an enclosed printer, the best one that I have tested so far at a good price is the QIDI Q1. I made a review video and some follow up videos on it as well. The price point is not far off and you'll have a much better experience with a printer like that. I started with bed slingers, but I always had warpage issues and had to pay close attention to the room temperature, I don't even think about it when using an enclosed printer. I have a review video on the E3V3 that I just released a week+ ago and it shows that issue. If you want the best print quality, the Bambu printers and QIDI seem to be at the top, Creality is still struggling a bit with extrusion for some reason.

[@okanacar6546]

You only need this thing; take the flament put the down

[@bhamdodger]

Doesn't the ADXL345 Vibration Compensation Sensor take care of this problem?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

This printer doesn't have the sensor on it, and maybe it would help a little bit, the sensor needs to be positioned on the X, measurements taken, then the Y and the same process is run, there is no active vibration dampening on this printer, which means that when the mass of the print changes, so does the vibration. I've read that the results of the sensor for this printer are inconclusive. I'd still like to try it myself to be sure, but I have a feeling that what I've read about it is right.

[@Robert-mz9gh]

Will the uploaded bracket for the motor side work? It doesn't look like the updated model shown.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Well I'll be a monkey's uncle, it looks like the exported file isn't the most recent version, which is very hard to explain, since I don't have that model anymore. I'll sort that out right now, thanks!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It looks like the last few steps in fusion were disabled, I suppose I must have onto the timeline by accident, I'll send the notification out, great catch BTW!

[@mijaiscares8580]

Did u notice if input shaping improve with those arms?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

This printer isn't so nice for input shaping, it lacks the g-sensors from factory. I'd need to buy the kit and install and re-run to gather the results. I'm willing to do it though.

[@Impuritan1]

What material was that you were printing off the lead screw nuts in?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

This was just Hyper PLA, I have some ABS-GF25 that I also want to try, but I am really just getting setup to either make new ones myself, or have new ones CNC machined.

[@deviatixn2202]

So how much this mod did? On simple Ender 3 we have full-threaded stud mod, that made out of metal and its very solid, also have hex nuts for some calibration at tension and its connected directly to the frame (4040 profiles). So, i think plastic arms not that good?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

The original enders are far more stiff, these profiles connect into the plastic base, and they are smaller as well. It would have been better to still use the original Ender 3 frame IMO, and attach the parts to that. I think this was done as as cost-saving measure.

[@deviatixn2202]

@@NeedItMakeIt There is a meme in the community that after modifications from Ender 3 only its frame remains, the rest has been replaced

[@michaelk5889]

My KE HAS NOT been a good experience. No matter what settings I change or what I adjust mechanically, during the initial layer print, some areas the nozzle will scrub and others it won't. Been all over this thing checking and measuring. The layer will be great in spots and other spots its will just be strings. I'm trying to print a 200x200 initial layer. My bed is level was within .06mm across the bed. I guess I got a bad unit. About ready to toss it in the trash. Someone...any suggestions before I do??

[@TNX255]

If the KE has the CR Touch probe, like the Ender 3 S1 Pro that I have, then that may be the culprit. It seems the probe is very sensitive to giving inaccurate and erratic readings if it touches the bed at an angle, and this can happen if the bed is not 100% physically level + there is physical play in the metal "probing stick" of the probe. I struggled with first layer problems for a long time until I read about this. I can also notice quite a bit of physical play in the metallic tip of the probe when testing with my finger. Try putting your printer at an angle (eg. raising the front like say 5-10cm) and then running a few consecutive mesh probes and see if you get the same readings every time and then compare that to the readings you get when the printer is level. Putting the printer at an angle forces the probe to touch the bed at an angle every time, but it will always be at the same angle and also if there is play in the tip, it also forces the tip to the same position within the "play area" when probing. Hope you got what I was trying to explain - I'm tired and english is not my first language :D

[@_samtakoi_]

Yes, the problem with these printers is in the stands; they stand on a plastic case, which becomes deformed when the temperature changes. Well done author, the solution is correct, strengthening the racks with supports. If the author doesn’t mind, then here is also a good solution for supports, there will be a link to the files: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJutpq2hod-jbZY

[@michaelsaenz5638]

"And now we can add the M5 locknuts"

[@Erw-In]

Can you make the replacement you made for the steel plate public? I would rlly like to make that!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I will be doing that one next, I wanted to get the accelerometer first and then I can make a place for it to go and I also needed to test it to make sure there were no issues. So far it's working well, it's stiff enough and has the clearances needed. I've also lowered it down, so the center of gravity is lower, and that should help a bit. It shouldn't be too much longer to get that to a point to release it.

[@Erw-In]

@@NeedItMakeIt that sounds awesome! Your linear rail mod worked out great too, so I have high hopes ;) I'm already did the ' renfort' gantry support mod, so I'm skipping this one.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@Erw-In I'd like to also try an aluminum plate and also a CF plate to compare, but something printable is the best. Why did they use a dome shaped piece of steel on a fast printer, it is mind-boggling to me. No worries, I thought I'd try something that looks like it fits the printer well and I wanted to show some interesting new ways of connecting parts together.

[@psychomarto]

I mean yah, they look good, but its a bit overengineered... I solved it with two M8 rods, 8 nuts and 4 anchors for the extrusions... about 8 years ago with my tornado (and that one was crooked AF)...

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I guess I wasn't clear with the goal, I've made this in such a way that anyone with this printer can make, regardless of their skillset with machinery. It would have been far easier to do this from steel rods or even aluminum. Valid point, it's not the direction I went even though it would have been about 10X easier for me to do.

[@psychomarto]

@@NeedItMakeIt just to be clear, I meant no sass or anything, I like the looks of them, as said, but considering the factor ease of use: my tornado was not reliable and I was a beginner back then (kinda still am) but I was aware I need as much precision as I can get- and being such a newbie, calibration was a proper struggle then, but I knew my way around with cutting threaded rods, so it was a no brainer for me, not needing extras like perhaps inserts or precision printing. I like your vids as they explain a lot hence don't get my comment wrong. I commented in case someone with my "skillset" from 2016 feels a bit overwhelmed/scared. Cheers!

[@johanpersson8645]

I dont need brase on my ke. Print perfekt. I print 36h promts back to back.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Das ist gut, meine freund. I'm only guessing that you speak German due to your spelling of Perfect.

[@TinTalon]

I am so excited to do this to my printer! Great job. I really wish I knew how to do what you do. Amazing to me. I get that some people already know how to do this and to them this may not be as impressive, but I love the thought of creating and making something functional. What do you use to design your parts? What program? I’ve got fusion 360 but I haven’t had a chance to start learning it yet. I have no experience with CAD other than a couple things I made in Tinkercad. Love it. Please keep up the fantastic work.

[@TNX255]

Based on his videos I've watched before this, he's using Autodesk Fusion (360).

[@jeffm2787]

Nice, but easier to just run a PTFE tube up, remove the spool holder and print from a dry box. The filament is most of the problem. Still requires a couple items to be printed of course.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Yup, good option for sure, I'd prefer to see the runout sensor on the head or within the head as well, it doesn't make sense to run up and then back down if it can be avoided.

[@jeffm2787]

@@NeedItMakeIt I just printed a feed to test the concept of pulling from a dry box. Got a few options out there. For sure the run-out sensor needs to be handled. Printing another that will allow it to still be used, but very wasteful in the path.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It should work well coming from the box, I've done some testing on pulling through a pretty long tube and it doesn't seem to be enough friction to cause any problems... until maybe we get to 10+ feet of tubing anyway. It would depend a bit on how the spool is rotating, I've found one of my dryers causes the spool to rotate with quite a bit or resistance, while the other has very little. I don't find I use the runout sensor at all do you?

[@jeffm2787]

@@NeedItMakeIt I've printed a couple solutions and both are working fine. The shaking does go way down with the 1kg spool out of the picture. I'm happy with this solution and it doesn't require any mods to the printer. Well not permanent mods at least.

[@jeffm2787]

@@NeedItMakeIt I don't use the runout sensor. Might be more of an issue if I'm pulling from a filament dryer. Some are hard to see in and know what you have left.

[@Lany531]

Can someone tell me what length rods i need for the supports?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

To use metal rods?

[@Lany531]

Yes

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@Lany531 Are you wanting to adapt the design to use metal rods? If so, you can start with 18" rods and then cut them down as-needed.

[@whozawhatzit0]

So I am looking to upgrade to the Ender 3 KE from a basic Ender 3 and want to know if these series of modifications are NEEDED for this printer? Or are these modifications more for the longevity of the machine? Am I safe to just unbox, setup, and start printing? I absolutely needed to do some modifications to the ender 3 to get some good prints but I want to know if that is the case here as well? I'm looking for faster print times without (or negligible) loss of quality. I print a variety of things from household Q.O.L things, to toys, to D&D Miniatures. I just want to know that I am spending my money wisely. I also don't want to dive into resin printers right now (maybe some years down the line). So, any advice?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Maybe I'm biased but I don't really recommend any bed slingers anymore. Trying to move the mass of the bed along with the mass of the part you're printing on the bed has always been something that didn't make much sense. You'd also need some kind of enclosure for the best results. I've used a blanket, which looks awful, but it does work alright. Personally I have far better results with CoreXY printers. They're faster, more accurate, have less mass to move around at high speed, less ringing issues etc. I'm not sure if you've made up your mind about the direction you'd like to go, but I'd say try to get a CoreXY format if you can, there are lots of new ones coming on the market at a reasonable price. I'd recommend an enclosed one as well, you'll have better success this way as well. For the DND stuff, you can use a CoreXY with a 0.2mm nozzle, but they're better to be printed with a resin printer for the high detail you might want. I hope that helps a bit!

[@whozawhatzit0]

@@NeedItMakeIt My price range is fairly low for printers at around $300. I really don't want to work with resin right now because of the ventilation needed (I live in a hot/humid place), so it would needlessly heat up my room to open a window and I don't want to mount anything in the window for now. So I'm really stuck using FDM printers. So, are there any FDM printers that match the performance of the KE for the price? Sorry for asking so many questions.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@whozawhatzit0 No problem! If that's the case I might recommend that you look at the Bambu A1 Mini, it's small but it is precise and since you're printing mainly smaller parts it might suit you pretty well. The bed being so small doesn't really have the same issues with slinging a massive plate like the larger printers would. I think it might be in and around your price point and there are options to upgrade to color. I don't have one myself, but I've heard quite a lot of good things about it. I just checked and they've come down in price to 249 without their AMS, so it could be a good option. The KE quality isn't exceptional, you really need to upgrade the printer before it can be, with the A1 Mini there are no upgrades needed.

[@whozawhatzit0]

@@NeedItMakeIt So does the Bambu A1 mini have the same feature set as the KE? (Auto calibration/Z offset, wifi printing, and so forth? And does it at least print at a faster speed than my Ender 3? I'm sick of waiting all day and night for a small set of mini's to print lol. By the way, thank you so much for all of your help and advice. I've been so stressed out trying to figure all of this out, so this has been a huge help!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@whozawhatzit0 The Bottom line is that it is an overall better printer. Some people don't like that the software is "Closed" so you can't tinker with it. It has more features than you list and the ability to add upgrades which most printers do not have. Have a look on their site and see if it would suit your case well.

[@Luchingador]

Cant argue with the results, but i think i would just avoid this printer. If it had an all metal construction i could justify improvements but this feels more like fixing a troubled product

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I agree, there are better printers, it's really aimed at people who bought the printer and need some help with solutions, but the ideas could be used for any printer with similar problems. I wanted to share some of the ideas with the dovetail joints as well. I'm trying to use some of my knowledge of woodworking connections and apply them to 3d printing and the dovetail seems to work really well, it's far easier to 3D print rather than making it by hand.

[@Derrick_Darrell]

Holy.. how much Z travel to you lose with the Y rail mod & now the braces??

[@NeedItMakeIt]

You don't lose any travel with this design.

[@James-uw6ym]

What are your thoughts on the ender v3 printer?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I am making a video on it, for the most part it's pretty good, however I'm still getting some inconsistent extrusion, at least compared to the X1C. The frame is strong, I really like the design. The spool holder is to the side, which is good unless you have no space to the side, so I'd like to see a spool mounted "flat" to the side rather than 90 degrees to the printer. I'm going to reach out to Creality to see about the extrusion, it may be something that I am doing wrong, but aside from that and occasionally the printer seems to like to whistle at me, it's pretty good... for a bed slinger. Until I sort out the extrusion issue, I wouldn't recommend it, but if there is an easy fix, it can be a good printer.

[@James-uw6ym]

@@NeedItMakeIt looking forward to the video! Keep up the awesome content man!

[@XxbeyblademasterxX]

Can I just use esun asa for the parts? I don't really have the capacity to print carbon fiber filled materials yet

[@theayuwoki3569]

Yes, you could

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Anything stiff is good. Probably not PLA if you plan to print in an enclosure at any point.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Thanks for that!

[@XxbeyblademasterxX]

​@@theayuwoki3569thank you!

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

And years after years, without upgrades the Ender 3 is out of the game. I can see why Bambulabs sells the A1, for those who just want to print

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I think that soon enough, bed slingers no matter which brand will be a thing of the past, there are far better formats of printers coming out these days.

[@boriscalderon1678]

…and now we can add the M5 locknuts…🙄

[@nevillecreativitymentor]

One more SUSCRIPTION added ... CHEERS

[@darktrojan00]

how much easier would it have been to just go to home depot and get yourself some threaded rod instead of printing them big ass pieces and joining them with glue, also way more rigid

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It would have been easier, again this is meant to be a solution for anyone at any skill level. It would have been easier to grab a piece of steel, but attachment is still a problem so I would have created brackets at each end to glue the rods into them. I have nothing against using steel, I have a metal lathe, I have a blacksmithing forge/anvil etc. it's not about me, it's about what makes the most sense for the most people to provide an accessible solution. I say, do what works best for you, these are just ideas that I'm bringing into reality.

[@darktrojan00]

@@NeedItMakeIt you would obviously need 3d rinted brackets at the end however they could be threaded instead of glued and the threaded rods solution would A)look less bulky, B)be stronger, C)be way faster to make c) save you a crap ton of filament

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@darktrojan00 For sure, I actually started with that idea and moved to a fully printed version. The rod idea is overall better, just the issue of having to cut and thread the ends, also it should really be threaded LH and RH so it can be adjusted easily. The connections could even be glued though, threaded it better for adjustment though.

[@cynic5581]

Poor printer is on life support.

[@HonZaTri]

Well I see it as easily upgradable toy :) . I was not limited by...ehm to be polite...model of printer. If you want only "print, print, print..." of course, you will be frustrated. But if you want it as project. Honestly it have great software and mine KE print great from a start.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It has some potential but there were... a few things that could have been better if I'm being nice.