Garcia Kevin Jackson Larry Davis Mark

Hello! Will you please share how you calibrated your Q1 to get rapid PLA to stick very well? I’m using a creality hyper PLA and Elagoo RAPID PLA+ and I’m having a rough time. .6 nozzle, .3 height. Manual bed leveling Using paper, receipt paper, Z offset, washing buildplate, alcohol. All the tricks, and I still have problems. I’m printing part of the “Dragonslayer sword” from printables. So it has sharp corners and is tall for each section. The corners always curls up for me partially into the print. 215-230C 60-70C bed. Unless I have the first layer wayyyyy too low to the point where the filament is rippling on the build plate, use brims, and glue all at the same time, it doesn’t stick worth a crap. :( Turned rapid aux fan off and it sometimes is better, sometimes not. No room drafts, filament dry. Groups have not been able to help. I have bed meshed with the bed hot too.

Can you upload one of the frames with all the joints onto a 3d print site please

Two minutes in and garbage..

Why is there a dick on the end of you finger….

I wonder whats better this or the Bambu Lab A1.

X1C copycat...seriously...

where i can find those menus you show in the start of the vid?

if i would like to apply this joint into my model, it seems very difficult. do you have some kind of guidelines or steps how to recreate the job you made?

That's a really fresh idea! Thank you for sharing so much in depth!

Please tell me when you mentioned sanding the lighting cover you meant the final ABS versions! - For anyone curious why...DO NOT sand any build that has used a CF filament - unless you dislike your lungs, throat, eyes, nose and think cancer later on sounds nice. Using a strong always running vacuum and safety equipment may help - but why take the risk

As you are using the side of the printer, which I think makes more sense than the back of it, why not going wild and create some supports going all the way and which could hold between 2 and 4 spools?

It’s great to see other companies trying to catch up to bambulab but hardware is only part of it. Bambu is winning due to great software as well.

Why are you tilting your on its side? you plan on printing on the go :)

how do you access the new web interface?

Why did you edit out the frame were you put the screwdriver into the belt?

How can I remove the Sushi Go! logo 😭? I'm a newbie on this

I have never had to do this i don't get leveling issues at all on my K1 max

Love this, because as a small-time woodworker I've done a few dovetails and then abandoned them cuz they're just too time consuming. But cad and 3D printers make this far easier. But this is not just for parts that are too long to fit in your printer. An assembly that needs to be disassembled in future could benefit from this, if there's room for the joint. Screws are very fiddly and time-consuming and anytime you can replace screws with something designed into the plastic that's a win.

Also, can you do a video on the type of edit you did on the large cooling duct? I haven't seen this covered anywhere before and it's a very useful technique!

Bambu supports tree supports with variable layers - maybe worth a try?

Everyone be careful.... when getting to top limit of travel the printer does not know something is there and I almost broke my right lead screw and housing because of this stupid tool - it works fine but ruining a 1600 dollar printer is no fun.

Thank you. Tolerances worked great on the tapered dovetail. Just what I needed to complete a project without glue.

Might want to do some finagling with that benchy test to prevent the printer from colliding into the other areas that have already been printed..

Anyone know the size of the bed shipping bolts? Mine are long gone.

We are on our 2nd KE and let me tell you it's no picnic! After 9 months of tweaking and fussing and also Creality sending a whole new hotbed assembly (warped parts on OG) I still can't get a decent 1st layer. No amount of adjusting Z offset, hardware or software settings helps. The auto calibration does not work (for me) at all. One section is always too high and the other too low with the very middle 40-50 mm smoothish. I've probably run more calibrations in the past days then most people do in an entire year. I can see from some of the prints that I've made that if this was functioning correctly then it would be great (duh) but it doesn't. I'm just about to buy a Bambu A1mini to compare the quality.

It's the ecosystem that draws me to Bambu Labs. They have very good firmware with features like "Fuzzy Skin", which is almost a requirement for me. They also have their "Automatic Material System". Does QIDI have any plans for a multi-filament system? The Bambu Labs P1S is only $600, and $850 with the AMS- that's really hard to compete with.

Do you use orca with the q1 pro? If so any issues over the qidi slicer ?

For your 4 benchie test you should have a central pillar extending above the smoke stacks to see just how well each design can handle a really low layer time

Awesome

did you also gain some experience with the CHT insert on filled filaments like glasfiber or carbon or even wood ? I guess ( have installed the CHT version myselve ) that with filled filaments the CHT version tends to be worse compared to the non CHT version.

In a real situation, when I want to print, say, a wear-resistant hinge sliding bearing inside the flexible TPU, the material change will not be horizontal, which means that a lot of material would be wasted, and the printing would take a lot of time, because you would have to thread material several times in one line. and at the same time screw up the extruder. If this is not the case, please also show if you change the material vertically, say you print a sphere inside a cube made of a different material or with a different color.

Will it automatically switch over to the new roll if you have not synched with the printer prior to printing?

I think a good overhang test-model would be something with a lot (6+) of "wings" like a propeller. All blades equal but with an increasing amount of overhang along the blade. This will make a good indicator on how even the cooling is around 360°. Something else that would be interesting to compare is how hard supports stick to a model. I believe this to be an important benefit of good cooling. Maybe a bit difficult to compare.

For difficult overhangs I recommend not only reducing layer height but also to increase the line width. It has the same effect in increasing the supported overlap between layers. In my experience, a too low layer height makes overhangs curl up more and is worse at bridging. It's also more susceptible to pillowing.

What about printing them at 45deg( or what ever) to the build plate?

stern to stern 😏

For one off iterations, I keep a filament pen handy to touch up small defects, with some dental tools (small flat spade so I can "print" or dispense mid air then slide the tool out before sealing the hole). Maybe try to slice and print separately. Surely beats having to spend CAD and print time. Love the series and hopefully you come across the holy grail of cooling ducts.

The cyclops took longer because of more internal space than the other

I think it is really nice of you to go through many revs of funky profiles to get these printed. I am also irritated that 2 people submitted unprintable designs.

Good to hear a shout out to rock salt. Great guy

Is there going to be a showdown at the end? Will these ducts work for any 3D printer?

Maybe you should have the contributors send you STEP or IGES files or export the ducts in your preferred modeling software format if you're going to edit them. Much easier to modify actual 3D models than STLs.

I think a model with moving parts/tolerance is more valuable than quad benchy. I'm not sure what benchy shows that isn't already covered by the other test models.

The mythical Cloverbenchy

The bridging test looks great, but have you thought about how to measure the results?

Note that the seam locations also definitely matter. Wow the bridge results you got were amazing. I def think some people miss that going faster on a bridge can actually help because you want to essentially keep tension on the filament string, not just rely on it cooling in mid air. Tough balance and one that will be affected by the ducts you're about to test! Also I appreciate the chuckle after you said "Overhung" hahaha. So excited for the challenge!

I feel like printing some ducts in two pieces can be an option. For example, the UFO can use a ring with holes printed flat on build plate and keyed to the rest of the model, and then inserted mid-print so it bridges over the part and locks it in before printing further.

Another amazing video. I really appreciate the care and effort you expend in making your videos. The way you talk us through troubleshooting prints is very informative. Thank you very much !!!