The fast and easy half-half-half drawer construction method

Why don't more people do this? You can batch out a pile of drawers in minutes!
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs....
Follow us on social media►
Instagram: / stumpynubs
Twitter: / stumpynubs
Facebook: / stumpy-nubs-woodworkin...

[@bobholt9246]

Stumpy - I seldom comment, however this video deserves a thumbs up. That is by far the best explanation / tutorial I've ever seen regarding this process! WELL DONE!!

[@felixreali7101]

agree

[@GNU_Linux_for_good]

*Every* video of Stumpy Nubs deserves a thumbs up.

[@BeholderThe1st]

I've found that if you do multiple drawers of similar width and depth, you can run larger pieces of wood through the saw to cut the dado and rabbet for multiple drawers at once. Then, you can just cut off the heights you need and run the groove in for the bottom in the individual drawer faces after. This allows you to manipulate larger pieces on the table saw for better support. This is also useful when the bottom has to be set at a specific distance, i.e. for undermount slides that might not respect the 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 of this method.

[@Rossco242424]

dang great tip!

[@y2kroxy]

I’m embarking installing kitchen cabinet pullout drawers/shelves with under mount slides. This will definitely be a time saver.

[@cyberjohn44]

3 years later and still a excellent video.

[@jerrydempsey5428]

Hi Stumpy, I enjoyed the video. Your explanations are always clear and concise. I couldn't get comfortable with running my end boards on edge so I took the time to set up my router as well to cut the rabbets with the boards flat. Extra work, I know but it didn't take long to do the extra setup and it make me feel safer.

[@tonyn3123]

Haven't made a drawer, other than dovetail joints before because they are typically complicated. And dovetails for me?....well they are time consuming and complicated too! Your video helps a great deal with understanding a simpler way of construction for typical drawers. I have watched your video twice, but still need to build one in my shop to get it under my belt. Thanks.

[@ericrackley3218]

Running boards on end through the table saw can be a dangerous process...especially without a really good zero clearance plate. For the ends and bottoms (rabbets), I use a sacrificial fence right up to the blade. As long as the sacrificial fence is HALF the width of your work piece you don't even have to measure. With this method you can run pieces through on their face to create the rabbet instead of on end. That will help keep you fingers from becoming Stumpy Nubs.

[@mychalevenson7710]

Quick reminder of fraction math. To divide a fraction by 2, double the bottom number (denominator). For example to calculate one-half of 1/2, multiply the 2 at the bottom to get 1/4. One half of 9/16, multiply the 16 at the bottom to get 9/32.

[@ronmontgomery5834]

Ah fractions the bane of my wife!

[@jlh5995]

Hey James, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent tutorial on making drawers with a dado blade and the one-step setup. Also, many thanks for including SAFETY issues regarding this setup.

[@daveweigle4090]

Best 1/4-1/4-1/4 video I've seen. If using other than nominal wood for sides and bottom, installing bottom with rabbet up will give a recessed bottom. Install with rabbet down and bottom will be flush.

[@jamesschrum8924]

I Love the video's you do, and always give a thumbs up but never comment. This is a great video explaning this method that my dad taught me 60 years back and you explained very well. Dove tails take much longer to do and setups are a pain. Go to the big box stores and look at the cabinets and you will see most use this method, and they fail when overloaded or abused by pushing stuff tightly into them. Still a good method, not bucking it. If building something fast way to go, if building something to last for your great grandkids, take the time and dovetail it and the wood will break before the dovetail comes apart. And yea I do use this method too, just depends on how long I need it to last me. Thanks again for all the great video's I aways learn something from them.

[@alfonsohurtado3079]

👍 Have used this for years, a shop that I worked at 35 years ago we kept 1 saw set up for this with a custom blade for 12 mm Baltic birch. It’s always a pain trying to do it with the very undersized plywood these days. Or trying to find a dado blade that’s NOT 1/8” outside blades.

[@PhilipThompsonCanada]

Excellent video and explanation showing how anyone can make first class drawers with this logical method.

[@danieldewit7809]

So patient and well demonstrated! Thanks for putting your knowledge on the internet

[@e-vd]

I learn so much from your channel. I used your "simple box joint method" to make a batch of birdhouses, and it worked perfectly. I plan to use this locking rabbet joint method for another project. I'm confident this tutorial will make all the difference in the outcome. Thank you for helping me make sense of the worldwide web of woodworking! You're an exceptional educator, and I'm much obliged 🤠

[@johncocking5363]

James, I have used the 1/4 1/4 1/4 method for many years with great success. thank you so much for explaining it so well. Love your videos. Keep them coming. John in Missouri Valley Iowa.

[@kevinbowker2385]

Thank you, James!

[@lincolndickerson1293]

As always you are clear, concise and complete. Keep up the great work!

[@MarkPrimavera]

I'm glad I found this video, very good explanation for various thicknesses of ply wood. As soon as I get my dado blades back from the sharpening shop I am going to give it a try. Here in northern, Ontario, Canada it is difficult to get true 1/2" Baltic birch but the Aspen ply that is available comes out to 15/32" (0.46875") thick - I'm just going to call it half inch. Hopefully it works. Thank you for sharing!

[@blandry021]

Great explanation on how to do the locking joint.

[@notcharles]

As good as Katz' Quarter Quarter Quarter instruction - thank you. Good points.

[@JustinMorrison]

I love this sooooo much-thank you Stumpy!!

[@healthballnut]

Thanks, just the info I needed for my next project.

[@dabeamer42]

Robert at the Under Dunn YT channel just used this method to make something like 527 drawers. OK, maybe only 27. And he credits Stumpy by name as his mentor for this.

[@scottpowell5583]

RD's video is why I'm here. Cheers!

[@Randidly1]

One of your best videos imo

[@MrBobisadog]

Great vid!! I tried the quarter x3 version and loved the results. But I had a terrible time setting the saw so all three cuts worked. After your video I realized my plywood was probably undersized. Great job!

[@thomasarussellsr]

Vernier calipers are a God send when it comes to manufactured woods and wood not milled by the crafts-person themselves. Even when you mill your own. Exact thicknesses are almost never found at the big box stores. A good set of measuring calipers should be a go to tool in every shop, metal or wood. It makes machine an tool set up so much easier. HINT: If you didn't already know, the tail sticking out the end of the caliper is great for setting the cut depth of your saw blade or router bit, checking the drill depth of a hole, etc...

[@y2kroxy]

You’ve got to remember that it’s not 1/4” but actually 1/2 thickness of the material.

[@eherlitz]

Awesome explanation, the sketch at 4:28 does however illustrate stopped grooves. Not that it matters if you are covering the front, but that could be mentioned.

[@featherboards1565]

I've heard tell of this one-setup method but hadn't seen it demonstrated so crystal clearly. Your timing is perfect since I'm planning to make drawers using this method very soon. 👍🏼

[@zaqmko0]

Yeah, what @Featherboards said.

[@BizarroIsNo123]

As a beginner this is an awesome idea and thank you so much!

[@georgerobertson4655]

The voice of reason I was looking for. It seemed that too much focus was on 1/4 1/4 1/4. I thought 1/2 the material thickness would be a better rule. You confirmed it extremely well. Off I go to the garage to get started. Thanks.

[@joebrey7052]

Very cool. I will try this on my next project.

[@rodjacksn]

Hey Stumpy 😀 !! I love your clearly explained, analytical and practical approach to things !!! Once again, an outstanding video ✌️!!!

[@paulsiegel4439]

A great way to make drawers. One question: In this specific case, wouldn't it be okay to use a finger board after the blade? If anything, it seems that would keep the board from pinching against the dado stack.

[@beralius8584]

Great video! Only thing that doesn't seem to be explained is how the groove on the sides is shown as not breaking through on the section of wood past the dado that wraps around the end of the front and rear of the drawer. 4:30 is a good closeup of this. I notice that at 0:29 there is a quick shot of the side showing that the groove did break out. I assume since there is a false front this is not a concern? Got my thumbs up regardless! This is a great video for quick production or beginners!

[@danielterk4313]

I was wondering the same thing.

[@_Tuuri]

Ditto

[@thomasarussellsr]

For me, this would be easier to do at the router table (keeping the front and rear side from breaking through on the dado on the bottom groove).

[@milehighslacker4196]

I believe the drawings are shown that way for clarity, but in practice he did not stop the grooves. See 3:51 in the video.

[@The_Ol_Bizzaroo]

I was wondering the same thing.

[@njminer]

Excellent and easily understandable presentation with a well thought out script! My only curiosity is how do you make the cut (shown in image at 4:34) that doesn't go all of the way through the end of the board? Thanks for the great work.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Carefully starting/stopping the cut at just the right time. This is much more easily accomplished at a router table, but can be done at a table saw. I would recommend stopping the saw when you think you are in the correct place rather than trying to raise or lower the piece with the blade running. This is a prime time to experience a kick-back, a highly dangerous moment. Let the blade come to a full stop befor lifting the board. You may have to finish the groove with a chisel, router, or other tool at your discretion.

[@markmcmullen7402]

WOW!!! How many vids & PBS shows have I seen this process shown but never retained the knowledge? OK, maybe part is the failing memory of an old man but your explanation of half-half-half will be embedded in my brain now Thanks, James!!!

[@thomasarussellsr]

Exactly! 1/2-1/2-1/2 makes much more sense to my mind as well. I mean, who always works with 1/2 inch material? That's a lot of extra thickness-planing and wasted wood if you're using real wood, and a better chance of warping if you're using modern poorly made plywood products.

[@troybayham5723]

I have been waiting for a better explanation on this process. Thank you. Going to give it a shot on my next set of drawer. Dovetails are too much work for me....

[@miyagijunior]

Hey stumpy - I used the half method on undersized 1/2 ply. Used 15/64" for distance from blade and blade depth (which is half of the stock thickness). The fit ended up really tight. With much coercion and tapping with a hammer, I can fit the pieces together. But I seriously doubt I will be able to get glue in there. Do you have a recommendation on what needs to be changed when the joints end up too tight? Anything that might stand out as obvious?

[@stephane184]

Wondering if bottom dado for drawer bottom is strong enough with 1/4 lip when using plywood? Preferable to have 1/2 in of plywood under the bottom dado? Means you have to adjust your fence a couple of times

[@mariolombardi3864]

Great tip, thank you!!

[@TheBlueMuzzy]

The best part of this video is when you explain the dangers of using the tablesaw with vertical boards. Showing options for how to get the job done while minimizing the dangers is key. Thanks for this!

[@stephanberger3476]

Great! If only we had dado stacks in Europe.

[@Everfalling]

A small error in your sketch up model that makes it seem like the bottom cut on the sides have grooves that don’t break through the ends

[@Everfalling]

chunkymurps yeah I thought there was gonna be a step showing how to do that blind groove until I realized it was just an error in the sketchup design.

[@robwagner2789]

Is there a modified version of this that can be done without a dado stack? The rabbits are straight forward (one vertical pass and one flat pass per side), then I guess the first pass for each of the grooves, then edge in the fence for a couple additional passes to finish the grooves. Has anyone tried this?

[@thomasarussellsr]

If you have a table router, cut a relief groove down the center of your slot at the table saw (to make less work for your router) then set up your router for the half/half/half groove and finish the grooves on the router table. The cut on the table saw will make for less work on your router bit and less burning on your wood. Set the table-saw to cut your half thickness but at the center of your groove, so, if your doing 3/4 for instance, your 1/2 cut is 3/8, your center of cut will be 3/8 plus 3/16 from the fence or 9/16 of an inch.

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic. Thanks a lot! 😃 I just subscribed! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@paulblair260]

Besides being a master craftsman, you are a master teacher. Well done video!

[@ikust007]

I agree : he is a born teacher .

[@ceciliaohman185]

I'm agree! Excellent

[@matthewcargo1701]

Is any grain direction better than the other in plywood? I'm thinking about the narrow lip outside the dado.

[@RockyTopSplash]

I've probably commented this exact comment 10 times on your channel, so what's one more? I cant tell you how much I love these videos. So well put together. Unbelievably informative. Just a great way to spend spare time watching something useful. BTW.. I hardly do any wood working projects... but if I was going to, man your teachings would be GOLD. Keep up the awesome work

[@Alex-lc5nq]

Very very very cool! I didn't know this technique! Thanks for sharing all your video it's always interesting to see your tips. Hi from France cher ami ! 🥤😎👍

[@MyGrowthRings]

Very well explained. Back in the days when the epoxy slide was the state of the art we used to build drawers using this method but we would attach the bottoms without recessing them at all. The slides would totally cover and support the bottoms. I don’t miss the 3/4 extension, but I sure do miss that easy construction method. Great vid, James. Scott

[@kevinkramer9311]

It looked like you were using pre-finished plywood in some of the examples. Would that require a polyurethane glue for assembly? Would that be adequate?

[@d-tone551]

Hey Stumpy - I am about to make drawers for my homemade router table so this video was perfect - best explanation I’ve seen on this method. 1/2” plywood isn’t really 1/2” and 1/4” plywood isn’t really 1/4” I don’t think dado stacks go less than 1/4” so how do you deal with the thinner stock issue

[@mitchellepps4740]

I’m new to woodwork and came here just to ask this question

[@handyguyinc]

Wish this question would’ve been answered, as I’m needing to build 45 drawer boxes with 1/2” (15/32” actual) Baltic Birch, which translates to a 15/64ths dado/rabbit. Have searched the ol’ interweb with no real results.

[@Rudy32225]

@@handyguyinc I use a wobble dado blade that is essentially infinitely variable

[@coreymatheson4132]

I use that joint almost exclusively for drawers. Strong, quick, and easy. You did an awesome job explaining the process! The same set up can be done on the router table too, but then there is the noise and mess.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Dust collection is imperative if doing this on a router table. Try a relief cut down the middle of the grooves on the table saw first, it really does save time and wear on router bits, and improves accuracy on the router table as well.

[@vipero00]

I wish you had shown more on assembly of these drawers. Applying glue, sequence of assembly, keeping it square so you don't blow out the narrow end of the dados, and minimizing glue squeeze out.

[@ibdavidc]

Awesome video, and (in my case) timely. Question: at 6:18 you talk about using a featherboard ahead of the blade, which is best practice, but show the featherboard apparently directly above. In this case, I can't think of a reason this would be dangerous (and therefor obviates the "ahead" warning); it actually looks safer this way. I'm probably picking nits, but it jumped out at me. Again, AWESOME video!

[@StumpyNubs]

It's perfectly safe as shown in the video. I should not have said "ahead," I should have said "over" the blade.

[@PSjustanormalguy]

Maybe I'm missing something, how to do fit the front draw side with the base in place ? Do you have to shorten the length of the bottom so that it is 1/4inch shorter, otherwise the front side will catch the edge of the bottom.

[@wooddoug1]

I thought I was the only one! It looks impossible to me. When he slides that piece down and the bottom is in it I'm thinking dude, no way your getting that to work.

[@artdecco8617]

The bottom 1/4 in. groove needs to be 1/2in. up from bottom when using Blum undermount. guides.........Seems like the whole method changes at that point............

[@hughgriffiths302]

How do you make the 1/2 x 1/2 drawer without bring able to have a dado set on the table saw. Can it be made on a router table?

[@ParleysWoodedJourney]

@Stumpy Nubs, Can you show how to measure the drawers, given the inside dimensions of the cabinet?

[@Aaron-P]

I love this method!! It ruins the "one set-up" advantage, but if one is *at all* squeamish about rabbeting the bottoms on edge, you can also dado all the sides first, then move your fence & add a sacrificial edge to allow you to rabbet the bottoms flat. Still get the excellent, simple, and strong joinery with one blade set-up and two fence set-ups, plus it's much safer for the novices. 😎👍

[@dagrynch]

I prefer doing it this way. Extra steps but if you're making a shallow drawer the sides are narrow and cutting them on edge is sketchy. More so if you don't have a zero clearance insert for that setup

[@tomgerman1484]

Thanks for demonstrating this. I’ll never do it differently after how easy I found this to do. One critique that threw me for a second: your animation show the assembly finishing by sliding down a front/back piece, which had me questioning the dimensions of the drawer bottom for clearance. In reality, I figured out that you put a side on last and it presses into place.

[@petec6690]

At 3:11 your illustration shows a stop dado cut. How did you achieve that?

[@shawnthebeliever]

Thanks for the video. The link to the e-magazine returns a 404 error.

[@number6396]

What do you do when using BLUM under mount slides? This method does not work. Do you have a solution?

[@gutierrreznwd]

I have been enjoying your videos for the past few months..... by far, your videos have helped me as a beginner woodworker more than any other. Thanks for your videos. I have a quick question regarding soft close drawer sliders. There are so many options out there; however it seems like the quality are questionable. Would you please recommend a brand of drawer sliders I can buy? Thanks, David

[@number6396]

Blum

[@bumble84]

could you use the same process on a router table for those of us that dont have access to a dado stack

[@JoshuaKuntz57]

I know I'm really late to the party here, but I just made my first set of this style of drawer this weekend. One thing I ran into that may help other people (and that I have not seen on any of the explanation videos) is... You really need to be precise when cutting your pieces to length before cutting the rabbets and dados, especially your bottom panels. If you can use all the same stops on a cross cut sled or something like that, you will probably get the best results. I don't have a cross cut setup, so I cut my sides to length on the miter saw, and bottom panels on the table saw. My drawers would not go together, because the bottom panels were almost an 1/8th too long. So I had to reset my table saw up to rip them down, reset the the dado blade up, and recut 1 dado on each of my 4 drawer bottoms. Not the end of the world, but it was enough to make me walk away from the project for the day!

[@janburns9496]

Since plywood is now metric, how is the difference (slight as it is) overcome? Thanks

[@StumpyNubs]

Doesn't matter how thick it is, set the dado set to half it's thickness.

[@joansparky4439]

How do you make the cut/dado for the front or back panel that is like a T-junction and doesn't go through the board? Seen at 1:41 for example for the panel on the left.. Thanks

[@georgelza]

any chance you can make a similar video showing this method with a table top router, in Non USA... we can't get Dado Blade/Table Saw combinations so the only option would be a router. easy enough to do, just thought.

[@rwe2156]

Problem is, there. It such thing as 1/2” plywood. It’s 15/32 or 12mm.

[@iwantfree9257]

I use big box 3/4 ply which is 23/32. Using the halfx3 method I needed a dado stack 23/64. I did this using a 3/32 chipper and two 0.2mm shims. Using a versatile dado stack and shims I'm sure you can come up with something for nominal 1/2 inch plywood.

[@AB-nu5we]

Timing couldn't be better. Just getting ready to batch out a bunch of 1/2 inch and 3/4 drawers. Can't wait to try it.

[@ShaneBrogan]

Perfect timing, I was just going start a project needing a bunch of drawers.

[@TonyBullard]

Conversely, I just struggled with a few drawers LAST week...

[@jack002tuber]

I'm no woodworker, but I hear tell that 1/2" plywood is not 1/2", so you'd have to take 1/2 of the actual thickness, but that should be no problem

[@langrock74]

In the end, you are limited by what dado stack you have anyhow. Just round the numbers up.

[@robertking9220]

Excellent instruction! Your diagrams help a lot. Question: Lacking a dado set, couldn’t one use a router table and 3/8 straight bit rather than a table saw? Thanks!

[@robertking9220]

I meant 1/4” for 1/2” boards.

[@chrissimonton9939]

This may be the coolest thing I've seen when it comes to making drawers! Thank you!

[@mikematthews5062]

Can I use a router the same way?

[@philipbyrnes7501]

Yup, what they ↕️ all said, well, the positive ones that is. Excellent as usual James, thank you for sharing your wisdom and your excellent craftsmanship, 11 out of 10 😎👍

[@jq71]

Why haven't I learned this before now?

[@TheTycarroll]

Great method but as I am designing some drawers right now I wanted to clarify something. Running all the dados for the drawer bottom straight through the pieces will leave you with a visible square hole in the front and back panels. This will of course be somewhat filled in with the bottom and then covered with a false front but just want to double check others are having that same result during design and building and that I haven't cocked things up. Thanks for the clear explanation of this easy method!

[@russellmm]

I am wondering the same thing. At 4:31 the drawing shows this as not cut all the way through but I don't know how you would achieve that.

[@TheTycarroll]

@@russellmm I think that is just how he drew it in sketch up, if you were to actually run this setup on a table saw you would definitely get those holes. You could in theory do this on a router table as well and then set up stop dados but that I think defeats the purpose of this quick and easy set up

[@gregtaylor9331]

Have you found any problem with the actual plywood thickness not equaling the nominal plywood thickness using this method? I know it is a minor discrepancy but I was curious.

[@y2kroxy]

This why the 1/2, 1/2/, 1/2 system uses 1/2 the thickness of the material.

[@emmakun]

Can this be achieved with a router instead of a dado blade?

[@jeremyhill5192]

Yes I just made some 1/2 in. drawers using my router and this process and it turned out great. However I feel the table saw would be easier to set up and quicker cuts.

[@kaasmeester5903]

@@jeremyhill5192 I've done this with a handheld plunge router and edge guide. Takes a bit more time, and you have to set up twice (or 3 times if you also have to cut a rabbet on the bottom panel), but it's not that much slower. Just had to watch for the router bit not getting too hot. It's probably a lot easier on a router table, but I don't have 1 (yet)

[@thomasarussellsr]

Yes, it is a very doable jobe with a router/router-table. I would suggest setting your table-saw to make a full (1/2) depth relief cut down the center of the groove to reduce the workload on the router and help keep it from over heating. Plus the relief cut will help guide the router bit keeping it more accurate. A hand-held router with an edge guide or a table-router with a good fence will work with or without the relief cut, but the relief cut will save router bits in the long run.

[@patatje1434]

this is a perfect solution for my dadostack problem 😁👍

[@BrianThorstad]

Really great, I’m a believer. For me, I don’t think you mentioned the largest advantage. Trivial automatic squaring of the box! Btw, at your earlier recommendation I have a great blade from Ridge Carbide.

[@NelloCambelli]

How are dados & rabbits made without table saw and router?

[@patrickduffey4344]

I have just used rabbet joints on most of my drawers but now I really want to give this a try. Really broke it down and made it simple

[@richarddicktaylor219]

Great except in the uk you can't buy a table saw dado system Any suggestions about a simple way to do this without a dado stack?

[@chipperkeithmgb]

Not true I have one use it all the time

[@douggarson50]

Great video but you overlooked one point, the dimensions of the drawer parts to end up with you desired drawer dimensions. Maybe obvious but critical. The sides that are dadoed must be full dimension but the front and back that are rabeted need to be reduced in length by the thickness of the parts. Now a question, any reason you wouldn't use this method to make the cabinet boxes?

[@1striperon]

I am in agreement with many others. This is a helpful and well taught video. It comes just at the right time for a new project. Your teaching style is organized and easy-going. Credibility and understanding is the result. Thank you.

[@gordroberts53]

Thanks James! As it turns out I have a few drawers to build, not what you'd call a production run but enough to practice the technique. Sadly the 3/4" and 1/2" plywood I normally use is actually 1/16" thinner than the nominal so I guess I'll finally get to use the shim pack that came with my dado stack. Many thanks for sharing and cheers from BC!

[@GARDENER42]

Thinking this through - dado sets are a rarity here in the UK & unavailable for my table saw. Surely this could be done on my router table using the correct diameter bit?

[@Martin_Macko]

sure - I have made something similar with 12mm plywood and 6 mm router bit

[@garynumen13]

Great stuff, Stumpy. Would be nice to give a clear explanation of how to determine the cut lengths for the bottoms. Don't ask me why!! Also, expect some of the little cubes left at the bottom outside corners of the front and back to break off. Otherwise, worked very well, thanks.

[@gilcd85]

This is such a useful video! I built a few 1/2'' drawers following this method and it worked really well on the first try! The only issue I encountered is that the little stump left over between the bottom and side dados of the side pieces tends to break easily. It's just esthetic issue, no functional impact on how the drawer works or anything.

[@edwardhappe802]

Thank you so much for the descriptions and visuals to the half-half-half. You just made things so much easier for me. :-)

[@vasilikozhushner7208]

this has been my go to for drawers when people dont want to pay for dovetails.

[@kwhump]

love this, i'll be building some kitchen drawers and will use this method. also love the can of Billy Beer back there... I didn't notice it the first few times i watched the video.. LOL

[@jim7smith]

As always, Stumpy, you articulate the task so well, be it complicated or simple, or a combination of the two. Well done! Also, love the description, works for any thickness of stock.

[@castletown999]

On sliding panels through the saw upright: I have found that polishing the saw table and fence with car polish reduces the friction enormously, making it safer and less effort. Just apply the polish as you would to car, wait a minute and buff it to shine with a soft cloth.

[@hel1copter]

This is a great tutorial for a great method. Dovetails are fine when you have only one joint to make, but dovetailing a whole chest of drawers would take all week. However, It’s my understanding that dado blades are illegal in the UK, because of the need you mention to remove the safety gear. To this effect, table saws sold here have an arbor fitted that won’t carry a dado blade. Do you have a method of making these cuts with a standard 1/8th kerf blade?

[@thomasarussellsr]

Router table after a centered relief cut at the table saw.

[@tigersunruss]

You're the best teacher on youtube. I've been putting off making cabinetry for my house for a long time and this is a brilliant explanation on drawers and makes it so easy to understand.

[@slowcarpenter8917]

Good bye pocket screws

[@todd0holaday]

My first watch. I'm a hobbyist woodworker and have made quite a few drawers. Your half-half-half method was very well explained and I'm looking forward to trying it. I love the idea of one set-up and your idea for the odd-thickness drawer bottom created when using 3/4 material was excellent. New subsriber!