The LIES and confusion of Tung Oil wood finish

Sorting through the mess of contradictory information about what should be a simple subject
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[@StumpyNubs]

Pure tung oil: amzn.to/3ay0KXA​ Formby's tung oil blend: amzn.to/3oMQ2Bl​ When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► MyWoodCutters: mywoodcutters.com (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)

[@verisperrulaias2999]

hi, i know this probably isnt the best place to ask, but ive been working on some hickory walkin/self-defense canes. its been recommended to me that i use tung oil for several reasons. my biggest concern is preventing scratches from makin it to the wood. i guess im askin if a total newbie will have issues with tung oil and if theres a better option for protecting the wood as well as lookin gud*not lookin to use acrylic

[@john-lenin]

Oh, it's "tung." I've been licking them.

[@alishajose1815]

Thanks for the info! Is sanding sufficient before applying tung oil? Or do you need to use a wood cleaner before sending and applying? Thanks again!

[@bruinflight1]

Hey Stumpy, noob question here: if it takes a long time for 100% to soak in, why would you wipe off the excess? Why not just let it sit?

[@rosaleeklassen3277]

@@bruinflight1 do

[@Saneyboo]

KZbin is so weird, i don't have a shop, i don't work with wood or anything like that, i still got recommended this video and fully watched it from start to finish, i will never use this information for anything whatsoever, but he was so good at explaining that i kept listening.

[@Tom_H327]

You'll be amazed at yourself a few years from now when the subject of oils on wood pops up inexplicably. You'll rattle off what you heard here and your friends will be amazed you know such things. Trust me; It will happen.

[@tinymetaltrees]

Me too.

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

Proof that AI at this time is all A and no I!

[@Jin-Ro]

Haha same. Now I just have to wait for someone to raise the subject of Tung oil, and I can chip in "Actually..."

[@asailijhijr]

You might ever buy furniture finished with tung oil, you might otherwise maintain someone else's furniture with tung oil. I'm just trying to be contrarian.

[@tetraire3844]

"Made from the nuts of the Tung tree, which doesn't hurt at all". You, sir, are a very underrated humorist. Thanks for the links and thanks for posting.

[@backpacker3421]

You beat me to it... sure sounds like it hurts, though.

[@johnmanning4577]

Don't be too hasty. We haven't heard from the Tungs on this....

[@dougguest6454]

ha ha ha ha ha

[@ScottPankhurst]

and not even a break in the presentation either.

[@dryananderson]

I had to rewind to be sure that’s what he said. Perfect low key delivery.

[@gregoryhall2680]

I too worked in a family hardware store in my 20's. All I ever knew about tung oil was what was on the can. I feel like I know 1000% more after this video. I really appreciate how you spell things out without talking down to the audience. We need more people with skills like this in the world.

[@caramiasmullen9892]

I absolutely agree 100%

[@richardclark4580]

After seeing this video, I would go with a blended Tung Oil product to ensure quicker drying and, in most applications, a harder finish w/ more resins to provide a harder, more durable finish...I've seen those old, antique kinda crinkled up finishes that I thought looked like a mistake. Now I know why...

[@jcyork1767]

Wow. After watching your video. I realized I have nothing but time for a beautiful natural tung oil finish for the old barn wood shelves that I am about to put together......nothing but time. Thank you.

[@skillsonian]

Dude, you should be the one to make all instructional videos for all subjects on KZbin. Your perspective, preparation and speaking techniques are first-class all the way! Congratulations and thank you!

[@timstahlmann8785]

I second that. I would welcome any instruction from him. He has the best delivery from anyone I have ever seen on KZbin. Bravo!

[@allanshpeley4284]

"Jack of all trades; master of none". Is that really what you want from this channel?

[@lightworker4512]

@@allanshpeley4284 as a DIY homeowner, YES. I still listen to other videos for a different perspective.

[@allanshpeley4284]

​@@lightworker4512 Hey, me too. But to be clear I was just saying that one person can't possibly cover *all* subjects. I've just stumbled onto this channel recently and have benefited from some great woodworking advice. But I don't think I'd take accounting or mountain biking advice from an expert woodworker.

[@SJmystic]

I concur with the compliments about how well done this video was -- great explanations and important illustration with materials, great choice of information to include (loved the historical references), clearly spoken, and even a little humor! Just one suggestion: you look a little short on tools, so perhaps get some more for the background before your next video. 😉😂 Thanks for taking the time to do this to inform the rest of us!

[@vardieyal]

I have an oak entrance door directly in the harsh sun, and rain. It was finished with varnish and had to be sanded and coated every year, till i tried pure tung oil. Now, it is to my surprise looks new every day and withstand all weather much better than varnish. I will continue to oil every year just by light sanding and Tung oil again. It is much more beautiful and resistant.

[@David_K_pi]

Wow! An added tip at no extra charge. Thanks! 👍

[@JosephMollica]

Man, I really appreciate your style of explanation! Your patient, thorough, and methodical ways tell me you truly understand your subject matter. Keep up the great work!

[@juliemac5640]

Einstein (or some other wise man) said something to the effect that, if you can’t explain it to a 4th grader, then you do not know your subject matter.

[@Rick-the-Swift]

@@juliemac5640 Just curious but was Einstein ever able to explain his Special Relativity theory to a 4th grader?😆

[@silvermediastudio]

This is spot on, and agrees with the extensive research I had to do about 15 years ago when applying finish to a new M1 Garand rifle stock, which was made of nice dark, dense walnut. I used pure Tung Oil, applied it moderately thick and let it soak for an hour, wiping it every 20 minutes or so to saturate evenly. Wiped off excess and let it sit for ten days. Repeated that cycle for seven coats, I used 600 grit between, not sure how much that matters in the end. It took a ton of oil and the final result was impressive. When all the coats were done I gave it a buffing, a very light application of natural carnauba wax, and buffed it out again. Water beads and slips off like a car hood, but it isn't slippery in the hands. Maintaining the wax finish every time out in the field keeps it in great condition. Yeah it took almost three months, but time well invested.

[@Krunch2020]

Results you could get in an hour with a catalyzed hard wax. But that’s not why we’re here. I’m making tung oil wax blends using beeswax and carnauba.

[@BeauChampion]

I really appreciate you taking the time and energy to help break down such a confusing subject. It's practically a public service! 😉

[@rosaliedefosse4742]

Yes, I agree, he is doing US a favor!! I have breathing issues, I don't want toxic chemicals in my home! 😩

[@DKWalser]

Lot's of great information! I just want to add: Pure tung oil, like all natural products, varies somewhat from one batch to the next. This is one of the reasons it's so hard to say with any definity how long it will take to cure. Not only do you need to take into account temperature, humidity, and air movement, the type of wood, the oil in two different bottles of the same brand of pure tung oil may have different cure times. That's okay. We're dealing with a natural process and cannot rush it.

[@kellyvcraig]

Look into the pre-polimerized stuff. Just as boiled linseed oil hardens quicker and harder, so does tung oil version.

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

If I'm doing hobby stuff for hobby reasons (or contracted specifically for product reasons) I often stick to natural finishes and enjoy that I have time to take... If I'm in a rush, intent on getting something done and out the door, I go with Poly... Just clear-coat it worth whatever I'm building and kick its figurative ass out of the shop to be rid of it. When it is about the contracted product, I'm careful that my client/customer is AWARE of whatever we're getting into before I start. I don't like "rush jobs"... I'm not going to compromise a promised product because some other idiot suddenly wants to get in a huff. I'll finish the thing and keep it first. ;o)

[@ArsonBourne]

Amazing clarity in your explanation. No beating around the bush and blah blah, which 95% of KZbin videos are. As mentioned by another person, I wish you make videos on every subject. Thank you.

[@musamor75]

It's always a pleasure watching (and listening to) your videos. Al though I'm an "old boy" myself now, I still learn new stuff thanks to your very well documented reports. As to the question of oil finishes, as a cabinet maker myself, I once met an instrument maker and restorer (baroque clarinettes, flutes ,and oboes) in Paris. He used to submerge his wooden "blanks" (unfinished blocks of wood) in different oils for up to two years!! He showed me a future baroque boxwood mouthpiece that he had soaked for two years in sweet almond oil. Honestly, simply rubbing over a piece of wood with some oil will never penetrate like actually submerging it in the oil. Today everyone wants an "instant" or very quick finish. I've done French Polishing (Shellac) here in France for over three decades. The "real Mackoy" takes about six months to do a genuine French Polish job- two to three seasons. At nearly 65 I now prefer oil finishes. I still think soakings the best method. In which case it would be better to slightly dilute the oil solution for better penetration. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Greetings from France.

[@jamesstanlake4064]

I was first exposed to Tung Oil as a finish back in the late 70's while working as a cabinet shop manager. We had a joe building stereo speaker cabinets and the person who had us building the cabinets specified the Tung Oil finish for them. He worked as a engineer for Chrysler in their trim plant and he had taken all readily available wood finishes and made test samples that were placed inside the climate chamber at the plant and were exposed to freezing cold all the way to extremely hot climates and the whole spectrum of humidity. Of all the finishes tested the Tung Oil was the only one not effected by the wide range of climate conditions. It was easy to apply and I always recommend it as a great finish for people just starting out. The trick to Tung Oil is you MUST read the label on the container to assure you are getting pure Tung Oil. Nothing else will do. Tung Oil rules!!

[@nobnobnobnob]

If this is true, I will add this to my Woodworking Bible, the Gospel of James, Chapter: The Parable of the Tung Oil

[@scottdowney4318]

That is correct. How about warming the oil to thin it and make it soak in quicker, perhaps microwave tung oil first.

[@TroyIson]

@@scottdowney4318 Pure Tung oil is flammable, even the rags you use to apply it should be cleaned because of spontaneous combustion that can be caused by tung oil... Be very careful if you decide to heat it. 'Super heating' it polymerizes it, making it dry quicker after application. But, you can buy tung oil that has already been super heated, so you don't have to risk heating it yourself.

[@nobnobnobnob]

@@TroyIson The last time I heard this story, it was Linseed oil, not Tung oil.

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

@@scottdowney4318 I frequently heat oils and finishes to thin them... My personal favorite thing is a heat resilient bowl on a "Beverage Warmer" (aka "Cup Warmer")... The newer ones with TWO settings usually run at 120 F and 150 F so you have a pretty solid control of temperature without exposing the oil to potential ignition... IF you're in a hurry, the bowl of oil can be floated on water in a pot on your stove. Tongs remove the risk of burning fingers while steadying the bowl, and the water can even simmer or almost boil... A normal spoon or even a popsicle stick can be employed to stir the stuff, and will help you judge when it's sufficiently hot. The pot of water puts some distance between the stove eye (or burner) and the oil... I'd advise you avoid an open flame, but if that's basically impossible, you CAN also get a "buffet burner" which is a single stove-eye on a platform with a cord and temperature control... There's no need to hazard the kitchen and your life cooking on a propane stove... AND with even a little ventilation, the oil's flammable vapors should dissipate before reaching a flammable content... BUT be sure the area is ventilated when you cook oils... there's always a risk... You CAN also employ a thermometer in the water-pot. This lets you get the water as warm or hot as you wish, fiddle with the stove (or buffet burner) controls to stabilize it, and then set the bowl onto the water... This controls how rapidly as well as how hot you heat your oil... Candy-makers use this technique (called "double boiling") to avoid incinerating sugar when they only mean to melt it... The burning point of sugar is treacherously close to its melting point... The big reason I rarely use a microwave is that just like grapes, there are occasionally "nefarious" contaminants in other things... Slice a grape in half and let the two halves touch in the microwave and you can develop plasma plumes! Not going to accuse linseed or tung oil of having horrible sh*t in there that will wreck your microwave... BUT I'm hesitant to use it because I don't know the chemistry and I don't feel like taking the time to bother... while a cup warmer can be utilized just fine and only needs 8 - 10 Watts to do it... ;o)

[@waynekitt6770]

Thank you, James. It is very pleasant, in our current environment, to hear someone cut through the B.S. and just tell the plain truth about something. No obfuscation, no diversion to self-interests - just plain talk and honesty. Very refreshing. Thank you.

[@ericlaudenslager9230]

The distinction between “adding to a first coat” and “adding a second coat” was very helpful

[@squigglyline2813]

That hit hard.

[@dnomyarnostaw]

"If the sandpaper gums up, it's not dry ..." great tip. Missing information - "Can you over coat Pure Tung Oil with harder finishes, like Estapol ?"

[@stevenwiedel3122]

I have recently learned much from your numerous video tutorials, and am grateful for your sharing of your knowledge. I cannot overstate my appreciation for the way in which you stick to the subject, your articulate analysis of the variables, and real world woodworking experience. [..and I don’t even mind you pitching good products to help fund the videos: they do seem to be superior tools/blades/abrasives/etc.]

[@callenclarke371]

This video is pretty much a textbook example of a perfectly executed information video. I know almost nothing about finishes, and by the end of it, every question I had about Tung Oil finishes was answered. Excellent job. Well done.

[@donp1088]

Great job of addressing the issue of confusion, in a non-confusing way. Not only that, but you clearly explained how variations in the mix applied change all expectations of what to do next, when to do it (if at all), and whether it will achieve your intent combined with patience.

[@AlbertNoffsinger]

I always enjoy the finish videos, clears up so much confusion for me and helps me pick the right finish for the job/project I need to get done. Thank you for this video.

[@chrismitchell7801]

Hi, I showed your vid about helical cutter blocks to a student yesterday - I overheard him saying to another teacher that he'd 'learned heaps'. Great presentation/delivery. I will recommend your channel to the class. Regards from New Zealand

[@p9a9r21]

Thank you!!! I and many other semi pros and novice natural wood finish aficionados appreciate the informative factual discussion and online seminar on Tung Oil finishes. Your video was a flash back to my "apprenticeship" with a senior from eastern Europe who married into a family of furniture makers from France and Spain. I remember coming to his shop behind his home and finding butcher blocks, tables and chairs brought to him by businesses owners and families who wanted genuine craftsmanship in maintaining, restoring and repairing these heirlooms. One of my first projects in his shop was restoring the tung oil finish on two cutting boards belonging to two sisters in our neighborhood. The cutting boards were wedding gifts to these two sisters from their maternal Grandfather. It took almost TWO MONTHS to complete the restoration.

[@caramiasmullen9892]

This is an excellent, informative instructional video ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you so much! I have some frames I need to finish and I would like to use the natural Tung Oil. My husband used it on an antique desk that came through my family...More of a library table type.... It is a beautiful job and still looks gorgeous to this day 30 years later. His attention to detail and his patients with finishing this desk absolutely paid off. My children will have it for years to come. I love it and I love the finish. I want to do my frames, I just hope I can do it and not mess it up. I do not need to be in a hurry. So I will be watching this information to get it down and hope and pray I can bring the frames to as gorgeous finish as Stumpy Nubs is training and I hope I can make it look like the desk my husband finished. AGAIN... THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! You are the first that I have ever found(and I am old) that can give information explained in such a way that I can trust and have faith in. Wish me luck if you will?!?!?!

[@saraembry1816]

This was so helpful. Only regret is I didn't see it BEFORE I started my project. Now I know for future projects!

[@davidfuson9982]

Thank you so much. I didn't realize or just thinking about there being a different make up of the different oils. I'm a weekend warrior for the most part but I have been doing tung oil and polyurethane finishes most of my life. Now it makes sense on the different finishes I have gotten over the years.

[@Banzai431]

This is the second time I've come back to this video, once when I was finishing my meranti speaker stands, and now again for a refresher to finish 2 knife handles, one redwood and one walnut. This video is invaluable. It's helped me so much. The finish on the speaker stands is durable and long lasting, I'm thinking it will be similar on the knife handles. Got a melunak butcher board planned, so I'll probably be back here for a third time when I finally get around to that. Thanks so much for this video.

[@polymerasiecondens6857]

This KZbin video provides a superior explanation of tung oil compared to all other videos on the subject. The clarity of the narration and the adept handling of the confusions found in other videos make this one exceptionally valuable.

[@seattlesix9953]

Pure tung oil should be used for food grade projects like cutting boards, while blends combine durability with overall less maintenance to keep the same appearance on items that aren’t normally in contact with food. The implication that your getting something less only adds to the confusion.

[@Tootsie55]

I use mineral oil for cutting boards.

[@doingityourself1336]

Perfect timing for an upcoming project. I'd like to see more videos from you about other natural finishes, cheers!

[@BasBleu02]

Thank you for this exceptionally informative lesson. I have a couple of unfinished end-grain cutting boards and dough bowls I'll be giving as gifts and want to apply a water-resistant and food-safe finish. You've headed me in the right direction and I now feel confident in my choice of tung oil (mixed with citrus solvent) and the technique you've demonstrated. Thank you for dispelling all the misinformation and providing useful instruction and demonstration. I'm grateful.

[@davidpowell5437]

I've watched this 2 years after first showing. I've seen several of your videos over the last few years and found them good, but this is the one that gets you my subscription. I can't imagine a clearer way through the fog of advertising - Debunking Rules!

[@williamlyles3802]

Thanks James, as always, well presented and informative. I used the same Wood River Tung oil a couple of weeks ago for the first time, it took only three days to dry, at least I considered it dry since my sand paper didn't clog up. I really like it now. Thanks again for some useful insight into another confusing finish. Hope you are doing well.

[@LutaRed]

This was a great presentation! I've been using pure tung oil on most of my turning projects over the last 8 years and I love it. But, I did have to learn that tung oil takes time to properly harden. I wish I had seen this video when I started turning. I have one lidded box that I turned out of cherry burl that by the time I was "done" with it had more than 60 coats on it and it absolutely glowed! I didn't want to give it up after that, but I had turned it for a friend's daughter's 16th birthday (it would have been nice if my buddy told me more than the day before her party!). Anyway, I quickly got the box and lid turned and fitted, gave it to her and then took it back! I told her I needed to finish it and she looked at me kind of weird, but gave it back. I brought it home and over the next year I applied and reapplied and reapplied etc etc every few days or until the previous coat was hard. I had a couple of wood worker friends tell me there was no way that was pure tung oil... but I know it was and I know how much time I put into it. When I gave it back to her, she loved it, so I guess I am ok with having given it up. That was the most coats I've ever put on a project. Maybe I'll try for a 100 coat project at some point, but that will take a couple of years the way I do it! I should ask the gift recipient for a picture of the box since I totally forgot to take one before handing it over! Rick in NH

[@alkaholic4848]

Can't thank you enough for this video 😀 I have a Greenland Paddle (kayaking) made of mostly red cedar and the original advice I got is to use Tung Oil to protect it. But there's so much confusing and conflicting information out there that I've never been confident about maintenance and applying it until now. Feel so much better after watching this, really clears things up, and opens up new possibilities about the different variations so I can choose which works best for differing circumstances. This mere 15 minutes of information is an absolute game changer for me. Thanks again.

[@J_to_the_F]

absolut gem of a chanel. I made a jointer´s apprenticeship in Germany wich takes 3 years and you spend 10% of the time in a special school for jointers. I think a week in your workshop could give more information than my time in school. you know what you´re doing and for educaton even more important: you know how to transfer the knowledge. This way of deciding free of any ideas or images about super ultimate products and just focusing on what is, what you need and deciding from there has allways been my way of learning.

[@sergiumacavei]

Great video man! Felt the need to congratulate you on how articulate you were with the explanations. Glad to see people like you, who like spending more time to get things done properly, get their appreciation. Like you said, the latter are more than the former, but still, people who have the patience to go all the way through a process are still around. We just have to look. Plus, the ones who are in a rush are probably secretly jealous on the patient ones...haha. thanks and cheers!

[@ThomCat316]

Several years ago I needed a shift knob for my Dakota. I turned one up from glued-up walnut and cherry. It was finished in seven or eight coats of pure tung oil, with the first couple coats getting thinned 50%, then 25% with citrus oil. The finish has never been updated or maintained, other than occasional cleaning. It's still doing fine, with daily use and wear.

[@donventura3844]

The constant handling also acts like a burnishing process that will polish the soaked in polymerized oil. I usually put wax over tung oil after a 30 day cure

[@f.michaelbouwers5848]

I really liked this video, I’m getting interested in woodworking as a hobby. I found the information very informative, I like learning about how products work before buying. I found it confusing and overwhelming when I went into the hardware store. You didn’t try selling a product, I appreciated that. The tutorial helps me decide how to use the product and what their potential future uses are. Like learning new things

[@willhandy5345]

What a splendid video. Clear, informative,unbiased, no BS. Thank you.

[@travismolnoskey2745]

For my butcher block countertops I used a 50/50 blend of pure tung oil and d-limonene orange oil solvent that I bought separately and mixed together. Did 4 coats with ~12 hours between each, and I've been very happy with it, completely food safe and has been very water and stain resistant.

[@horsepanther]

Thanks for sharing that info; I was thinking of using that blend but wondering about exactly what you included-dry time, number of coats, and water resistance!

[@als4817]

Thanks for posting !

[@tommybarrow5849]

I’ve heard you can re-coat this 50/50 mix in a short time. I waited a day for the second coat and after a month it won’t dry. Still waiting to sand and recoat.

[@als4817]

@@tommybarrow5849 Perhaps what it under, ie the 1st coat or before is preventing the 2nd from drying. Sand all the coats off, steel wool or plastic pad. Scrapers work well for this operation.

[@travismolnoskey2745]

@@tommybarrow5849 it might have to do with how you applied it, what I did was apply a generous layer with a shop towel until the whole surface was well saturated and wet looking, then went back a minute later with dry shop towels and dried off as much as possible until I couldn't see the wet sheen anymore. Then repeated every 12 hours 3 more times. The final coat did take probably a week until it stopped leeching oil onto things I set on the countertop and the strong smell went away.

[@masonroberts296]

Thank you very much for making this very informative video, and for laying out the truth about this subject. I am a Gunsmith and I used to use Formaby's Tung Oil for years on gun stocks for refinishing. I Didn't Realize that it wasn't Pure Tung Oil. In recent years I have used a blend of half Formaby's and half Boiled Linseed Oil. An older Gunsmith I know told me thats what he uses, and his stock work is superb, so I switched to that mixture instead. You have gained a subscriber and a fan!

[@khartoumist1031]

This is an *incredibly* helpful video. I always wondered why I had SO much trouble finding clear, consistent instructions on tung oil application. And this explains it perfectly.

[@enidrajm]

I'm a new fan! After admiring woodworking from a distance, I'm making a foray into restoring furniture. I say restoring versus flipping because I think there's a difference in the craftsmanship of the finished product. I've seen some truly horrible pieces for sale. The expertise you share through your channel is substantial and makes me feel that learning solid fundamentals will make for better projects. Thank you.

[@kristenstack3912]

Finishing my oak tabletop and this is exactly what I needed to see! Thank you for such a helpful video.

[@gordroberts53]

Thanks James! My goto finish for most of my turned wood and shop cabinetry, benches etc., is Minwax Tung Oil finish. For stuff on the lathe I generally apply three coats, using the third coat as a lubricant to wet sand with 400 or 600 grt. I like how it responds to friction after wet sanding and will generally add a coat of minwax finishing paste wax to add more depth and lustre. Now I understand why I like what it does for me. Many thanks and stay safe. Cheers from BC!

[@unicornlap]

I have a cutting board I need to restore and I have been trying to research tung oil for over 2 hours and it literally took me that long to find your video. THANK YOU!!!! The wood whisperer turned me on to tung oil being the best finish for my purposes so down the rabbit hole I went and the amount of misinformation, or I guess you're right "variety" of information...lol, is absolutely INSANE!!!! I'm so so so glad I found your video!! Thanks again!!

[@bdphourde]

Great subject matter, great presentations, and great flow of information! Glad I found your channel. Nothing is as valuable as good information!

[@45auto82]

I’ve been finishing wood for 60 years and didn’t know this. Mostly used Deft (Lacquer), waterspar varnish, shellac, polyurethane. For gun stocks I like the harder, more durable finish of poly blends and multiple coats, sanded in between. But sometimes I still use a Linseed Oil blend (True Oil) that dries quickly, if the customer wants a “hand rubbed oil” finish, usually 6-10 coats, polished to a high gloss with 4-ought steel wool. Thanks very much!

[@kiukle]

Exactly the kind of detailed explanation I have been looking for as a beginning woodworker. You definitely nailed all the different things I've been reading about all over the internet. This makes much more clear and concise sense. Thanks, I'll be watching more of your content for sure.

[@tonyhaltmar1383]

A walking, talking, woodworking encyclopedia!! Priceless info my brother, to a new wood worker like me. God bless you.

[@ResinEssenceByCheri]

You’re such a great teacher. I know I say that on so many videos but it’s just so true and I have to express my appreciation by telling everyone! Your calm demeanor and articulate speech, thorough explanations and demonstrations, your knowledge and understanding of the things you know and the things we need to know. I really hope you win awards for your channel. I really am so very impressed by you. Thank you for every second you spend creating your videos for us. 🫶🏻🇨🇦

[@paulperlmutter5371]

I love the way he thinks through the details of a project. And as always, very enjoyable presenter!

[@nickbright7493]

Thank you very much for your video. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated. I am currently a beginner at this, teaching myself by trial and error and learning from people like you. You seem very knowledgeable and things that other people don't even know exist such as the content of this video. I love being self-taught because I'm not adopting someone else's bad habits and I am keeping an open mind to accept knowledge from several sources as to not get tunnel vision. I am so thirsty for knowledge and have truly enjoyed this journey of learning this craft. I have poured my heart and soul and every spare dollar of my expendable income into this hobby and hope to go full-time with it soon. I truly appreciate the time and effort you take to make these videos and appreciate the honesty and candor. Keep it up and if you have any advice for an unjaded newbie I would love to hear it. I'm new to your channel but am eagerly soaking up every ounce of knowledge you've got to spare. Thanks again

[@mudpad]

Thanks for clearing up some of my confusion about penetrating oil finishes. I have use Old Masters Tung oil and Varnish on several walnut projects and have been very pleased with the results achieved with multiple coats in a short period of time (days instead of weeks) I have been looking around to see if I can find how much actual tung oil is in this product, but seems to be a secret! I just found your channel a few weedskago and have been impressed with the quality of the videos and your knowledge of the subjects. Keep em comin!

[@jakeallama22]

Great video! I love that you just state the facts and clear the confusion rather than bash one product or the other. Well done!

[@billsaltz4220]

Wow. That was about the most complete, clear explanation I've gotten today on Tung Oil ! I'm planning to finish a guitar neck, first time, and I've seen so many "preferences " which kept me guessing ! One person just contradicted himself in two videos ! Feel like I understand more than I did 15 minutes ago ! Thanks.

[@Carp4125]

Another great video. It seems like every video you make is better than the last and all of them filled with great information. Keep em rolling Stumpy.

[@CMDPromptify]

I'm deep in a late-night relaxing woodworker KZbin binge and this is some primo ish.

[@scottvisser8671]

You, Sir, are very much appreciated. Very knowlegeable. Very articulate. Very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to help others.

[@RolandsDad]

Very well put and demonstrated. I appreciate the simplicity in describing it. The breakdown of methods versus confusion was genius. I think that will simplify things for me far easier than typical "rule of thumb". The sandpaper test is also a bog standard for me.

[@upsidedown1972]

For those who want to use the pure orange oil, d-limonene is what you are after. I do 75% d-limonene and 25% tung oil. I use the same as stumpy does here. Then each coat I change the ratio until the last is pure tung.

[@Brandon-zo9ly]

This is close to what I do, but I do 75% first, then 50/50, then 25%. I get the tung oil from real milk paint, but the solvent in bulk so its cheaper.

[@davidcleveland4575]

I really appreciate you sharing your process and ratio, just curious how waterproof is this finish, will water rings appear from glass cups if I follow your ratio?

[@lannyhsu708]

Where do you get your d-limonene from? (and what brand)

[@upsidedown1972]

@@lannyhsu708 I order it on Amazon. I forget the brand. It's some kind of food grade stuff. They actually sell it as a dietary supplement. Although, I'm not sure I would eat it.

[@eedom69]

How long do you wait between coats of 75/25? I've got the dlimonene and was thinking 50/50.

[@bluewanderer9903]

"Raise the grain with damp cloth first" didnt know this, thank you 🙏👍

[@christopherbutz]

I have been mulling the idea of refinishing a table top with Tung oil and this video has proven invaluable. Thank you!

[@Chris_OTW]

I'm a novice when it comes to wood working, so I find your detailed and easy-to-digest content very valuable and informational. I have a background as a Strategic Quality Analyst in the field of Big Business Solutions & Communications. This presentation is textbook and showcases what ideal planning and execution looks like, and would make an excellent teaching example of effective indoctrination via video interface. Bravo to you and Kudos!

[@franknecaise2047]

Timely for me. I just finished using Tung Oil for a small maple and walnut wood project of mine. Only went with 2 coats of min max tung oil, will try more next time. Thanks for a very informative discussion.

[@dannyo3317]

Frank Necause: Evidently, you didn't watch the video, or you watched the video and didn't understand. Minwax sells "Tung Oil Finish". It isn't Tung Oil. Now go back and watch the video.

[@criswilson1140]

I love pure tung oil, but I have had to wait over a week for it to dry before. It was worth the wait.

[@DesertDog8989]

I've watched three of your vids already today; you are a clear and concise communicator, which I admire and appreciate.

[@ericswain4177]

Awesome vid, Simple easy to understand. I work in the trades as well as DIY and this sort of confusion is getting more prevalent with so-called natural as well as high-tech coatings. It gets even more confusing when you want to put a compatible protective topcoat. I love all-natural finishes Oils, Bees Wax, Milk Paint, Stains.

[@r.w8398]

I, mostly never, write a comment on a video but now I do. This couldn't be said better by anyone, ever. Respect for your guidance to anyone who's interested in woodworking. You sir, are a walking encyclopedia and a must see for all out there who are in need of debunking the many theories

[@dro8528]

Thank you so much for clearing up the confusion!

[@fedecano7362]

I love your videos. You have a deep knowledge of what you are talking about. The content is easy to digest and gets to the point, the editing and overall quality is also excellent! Glad I found you, a supporter from Barcelona!

[@AB-zw5xx]

I am very grateful for these well produced and informative videos. Thank you for creating them.

[@MichaelCoolidge]

Loved it. I like these deep dives into subjects that require it.

[@creativerecycling]

Several years ago, I inherited a small round antique lamp table. The top was veneer, split 4 ways, with an inlaid edge… beautiful. Except that the old finish had failed. I carefully stripped off the old finish and applied a 100% T’ung oil finish, which I had never before used. Was surprised how long it took to dry. Put on subsequent coats at 5-day intervals, polished it with 0000 steelwool and applied several coats of paste wax. It is absolutely gorgeous! Very durable and seems water-resistant.

[@dowtingtomas.695]

Hey man, can I use this finish on old mahogany burl veneer cabinets ? They had been shellac with a tint , but someone applied thick coats of poly and fucked it up. I have sanded and tried to shellac and polish but I just can’t get a nice finish .

[@j.pendergrass9805]

Gotta say its nice seeing the educated opinion of someone behind the counter, and decades of unbiased experience is like gold in the hands. Thanks. 👍

[@greendrake8864]

Thank you!!!! Refinishing an old Lufkin machinist tool chest. This is just what I needed to determine what direction to go for the finish

[@McThumpenstein]

Why would somebody downvote this? Seriously,, this is valuable content. I learned a ton just from this one video. I don't understand people sometimes.

[@joeltower5964]

Maybe they weren't really listening or didn't quite hear what they needed? Good question tho. I really got alot from it too.

[@wolflahti412]

I remember a can labeled "tung oil finish" that had zero tung oil in it. Very much like Sara Lee's "lite" desserts, which actually had *more* calories than the regular version; the corporate rep said that "lite" referred to the texture of the product.

[@daviddura1172]

same thing goes for THIN MINTS, ate a pack and didn't get s bit thinner.....

[@falxonPSN]

Wow. Lite foods with more calories. Shaking my head at that one.

[@xs10tl1]

my first attempt was with similar garbage, looked awful and I stripped it all off and started over. if not for YT I probably never would have learned the difference. Now I'm a believer, and every 3 months it's easy to hit all the pieces with a pad. nothing else.

[@hoilst]

"Lite" = "We replaced a bunch of the fat with a bunch of sugar".

[@joeltower5964]

HORSE PUCKY!! HOW 'BOUT SOME SNAKE OIL!!

[@rollypollyguy3976]

I really liked your approach! We're all using the same key words but different formulas. The confusion posted on the internet is so real. When looking this stuff up I came to the conclusion that every piece of advice will be contradicted by proxy. Solution: be open to discovery and there's nothing to it but to do it. Thanks dude

[@ricardofernandes4567]

Wow this is the first time I really watched the whole vedio because you explained the whole process so well that even a beginner or even a layman can understand. Thanks.. for me the confusion of what finish to use to get a natural look is sorted out. I must you really have a fantastic work place. Thanks a ton

[@Vincent-S]

Ah, thanks for this! I've been researching food safe finishes to dabble in because I don't really want to deal with the stuff that has solvents and dryers in it and was really confused about tung oil

[@Zigg317]

Thanks for this great video, Stumpy. I really appreciate your approach to this video, as I have been experimenting with Pure Tung Oil myself (with Milk Paint Co.'s Pure Tung Oil) on Alaskan Cedar and Pine. I'm sure it depends on the wood, but with pure Tung oil, I've been seeing penetrations of 3/16 to 5/16", which is much more than I would have expected. I don't see myself going much further with it, as you were probably born with more wood knowledge than I have, but I really wanted to thank you for such a good approach to a video and a good video itself.

[@stevekozle7247]

This was an absolutely excellent video and I got a lot out of it, thank you very much for taking the time to make this. I am smarter for having watched this and I appreciate it!

[@moiraevans355]

Thank you for your very good explanation, factual, clear, and revealing. Congratulations on your work in this and the time you have given to teaching us about Tung oil.

[@GunninWizard]

This was a one stop for absolutely everything I needed to know about tung oil

[@williamellis8993]

More great info, James. Thanks. It would be interesting to run that piece through a drum sander or light passes on the planer to see exactly how deep the finish goes. Take care. Bill

[@daveczerwinski8816]

Dude, I freaking love you man. I have learned so much from your incredibly researched, well thought out, informative and highly entertaining videos. Thank you for this one in particular. I am going to be doing some cutting boards and bought pure tung oil to finish them. Now I know I have to start making them four weeks ago. Ha! Jokes, but seriously. Thank you for your tireless effort to this craft. Your shoulders carry the projects of many masters who became such in part because of you. I am just a humble beginner, but my knowledge base is that of a seasoned pro thanks to you and your team. (My skills...not so much) Please don't stop educating and entertaining us, we need you more than you may know. Thank you!

[@aintnunya8058]

I knew that "Tung Oil Finish" and "Pure Tung Oli" are usually two different things, but I knew little beyond that. The information in this video filled in a lot of the blanks for me. Very informative and well done!!

[@FreeRange1234]

"Doesn't hurt at all" Hey I'm drinking coffee here!

[@DreadX10]

And applying a thin coat of coffee to your screen perhaps?

[@xmachine7003]

@@DreadX10 pixel preservation.😂

[@Tome4kkkk]

Westerners... ;P

[@stevenslater2669]

Thanks for the clarification. I used the “tung oil” that came with a Formby’s refinishing kit on 1/4 round toe molding I installed when I re-did a living room, dining room, new family room and entrance foyer. (A lot of toe molding!) The amber color was a perfect highlight to the tile & carpet we (she) selected. I applied 4 or 5 coats, assembly line style, to the new trim before cutting and fitting it. After install, it was easy to touch up any raw edges. The finish dried hard & took very little maintenance. And scuffs & scrapes were easy to touch up & blend. Now I know that if I had used pure tung oil, I would have had a mess on my hands!

[@The-Real-Ando]

Hey Steven is toe moulding what I would call skirting board, it goes round the inside of your walls at floor level? One more question do you need to keep applying it after installation? Thanks.

[@rachelmarie8275]

You were wonderful articulate and went right into everything I was wondering about. You explained things clearly and your demonstration helped me understand what I need to do. Thank you!

[@oliviafinnegan2437]

Wow this video was so excellent! Clear, straight to the point, and entertaining. I was so confused about the conflicting info out there on tung oil! I’m planning to use it for a bee hive and definitely need more time than I anticipated! Thank you 😊

[@kencoleman7762]

You explained it well enough that I don't think I need to use tung oil. There are so many excellent finishes which result in great beauty that seem to me much simpler to apply.

[@n8sot]

Hey Ken......can you give me some examples?????? For gun stocks..... Ive always used tung oil......but found it can get tacky after holding on to it for a while. Kinda a newb here.... but been around for a while!!! Any info you have would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!

[@kencoleman7762]

@@n8sot Brian, I am hardly an expert in finishing but I often use polyurethane, Danish Oil or boiled linseed oil. I haven't finished a stock. It is very satisfying to hand rub a smooth hardwood finish.. Good luck.

[@n8sot]

@@kencoleman7762 Thanks Ken!! Ive learned....the more you hand rub....the warmer it gets... and the better the penetration. Thanks for verifying!!!

[@markmaddison5312]

@@n8sot sounds to me you're confusing carpentry with sex

[@SantiagogranadosR]

Thank you, not just for this video, but for all of them. I find them so instructive. Thank you.

[@joshuabray37]

Thanks for this! This helps a lot. I’ve tried several brands (Old Masters, Minwax, Rockler). Each one has been very different. Some are thick, runny, clear, amber. Some dry in a few hours, some take days… Now I know why.

[@kandrisa]

I’ve must’ve watched this video 10 times. I have a small coffee table and want to use tung oil. I am going to go for it!

[@jaycook5028]

Restored oak library table with tung oil 45 years ago still in great shape.

[@craign6019]

Tell us jay

[@riffdex]

Did it work well on your table?

[@brunodesrosiers266]

Tip: slow down the video and take notes. A couple of passes should do it.

[@kandrisa]

@@riffdex I did end up using it. The grain looks better and have a golden/orange hue but I can’t comment on protection level since I don’t use the table heavily! The wood that I used is mulberry slab if that helps.

[@robwagner2789]

James, I know it might take a while, but it would be nice to see what that pure tung oil finish looks like after each successive coat for 3 or 4 coats. I've used what I *thought* was tung oil before and didn't see the big deal. Be nice to see it done properly.

[@dherman0001]

It's my finish of choice for indoor items as it holds up poorly to weather. The big deal is that it looks obviously natural, and is natural. It compliments wood. It's super easy to apply and refinish. Putting anything synthetic on high quality wood, unless it's an epoxy top, seems like a sin. I just can't do it. Never had complaints.

[@mcbaine3793]

@@dherman0001 I really dislike shiny finishes and have been thinking of using tung oil on some projects, including a speaker build with pine and my father is replacing a gunstock with cherry for me, I want to use tung oil on that as well. What do you think of these applications and how far does 16oz go? Thanks in advance if you are able to answer. I don't know anyone that actually has even heard of pure tung oil, so any input from an outside source would be great.

[@dherman0001]

@@mcbaine3793 I use satin

[@theblacksmokerartscrafts1959]

You're a natural teacher man. Thank for this video.

[@timstahlmann8785]

Amazing video and incredible instruction on the application of Pure Tung oil. Look no further. I was very impressed by the gentlemen's delivery and wealth of knowledge.