TERRIBLE internet trend for sanding wood.

[@StumpyNubs]

▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ - Carbide TruSander Blocks (sponsored): duragrit.com/TruSander-Carbide-Hand-Sanding-Block.html - Cork blocks: amzn.to/4cplDCW - Yoga sanding mat: amzn.to/4bklijA - Sandpaper rolls: amzn.to/3RIazs4 ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Dura Grit Carbide Sanding Products: (Save 10% with Coupon Code: STUMPYNUBS -Sale items excluded): duragrit.com/home.php *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★ - #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): shop.isotunes.com/stumpy -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@thebamfordman]

$60 shipping to the U.K. ☹️ Guessing it would pay for itself in sandpaper supplies quite quickly?

[@WoodworkingTop535]

I like this video, it is very necessary for everyone

[@VV0RK]

Sir, this is the internet. How dare you be calm and reasonable !

[@ericleiser33]

Jim's from Michigan. If you're from the midwest this was the equivalent of being really angry. Things really calmed down though when he started explaining about the cork.

[@eddolous]

True,and what’s up with the beard

[@Noticer_10-4]

@@ericleiser33 😂

[@dhgmllcshea5038]

​@@ericleiser33ummm y'all never heard of Dick the Bruiser on the Riff? Jeffrey Figer?

[@thethree60five]

What? Reason, logic, realism, and debunking... The interweb is for spreading freedumn thoughts!

[@daveengstrom9250]

I find this topic abrasive!

[@jonmccormick6805]

I'll file that comment away with my angle grinder.

[@madtitan9639]

Saying that around here really takes a lot of grit.

[@victorbongers5012]

I approve of this comment

[@dhgmllcshea5038]

Careful... ya don't wanna get kicked out of the Abrasive Engineering Society.... and become a yes man!

[@HvnMtn]

Yeah, he really just scratched the surface about sanding.

[@jimh472]

Dude...this is actually pretty profound. So many channels focus on the machining and construction and are light on good finishing tips.

[@kernelpickle]

That’s probably because if you look close enough at their finished pieces you can see the tool marks from their power sander. It looks good enough at a distance on camera the way it catches the light-but in some close ups you can see which guys do better work than the others. I would imagine that they aren’t teaching finishing techniques because they know they suck at it and if you followed their instructions, you’d probably complain that it doesn’t look very good and they’d be exposed for their lower quality work at the most important part of the job.

[@daviddazer2425]

I totally agree. I have noticed that often a craftsman puts a lot of care into the build, but then fails in finishing. Our beloved Norm Abram used to just slap polyurethane on his projects.

[@theglowcloud2215]

@@daviddazer2425 Norm was such a master, I readily forgive whatever attention he didn't give to finishing.

[@TracksWithDax]

All due respect, I think the real reason is because a lot of them make their living on youtube, so it's to their benefit to make their stuff look just good enough for a screen

[@squirts1]

@@kernelpickle no, it's because nobody wants to watch youtube videos of people hand sanding wood for hours. that doesn't generate views or revenue.

[@kenbrown2808]

"this is a handmade product. any minor variations in texture and color enhance the value of the finished product" words to live by.

[@acrazydurian]

one thing i learned making 3d models is human like symmetry, but hate perfect symmetry. try take a photo of a person and mirror the face right down the middle and see for yourself if you dont believe me. we say we like perfection, but in reality we dont. in the best case it feels cheap and mass produced, worst case you get uncanny valley. because nothing in the environment we evolved in for millions of years is ever perfect.

[@kenbrown2808]

@@acrazydurian movie fact: until Revenge of the Sith, Darth Vader's helmet and mask were not symmetrical.

[@JarheadCrayonEater]

Well, this definitely explains why dumping sand on the wood never worked. It's about time someone told me!

[@contestwill1556]

sometimes instead of taking the tool to the wood, it's easier to take the wood to the tool. try pounding sand with your workpiece

[@RuneCarverLLC]

Actually… I do use sand, dirt, gravel, nuts, bolts, screws, and whatever it takes to get the texture and finish that I'm looking for. If you really do want to use sand, I suggest you try playground sand at your Home Depot. It's actually, a pretty decent grain and could add some excellent texture and weathering and aging to your without big scratches. :-)

[@RuneCarverLLC]

@@contestwill1556 That's what i'm taking about... drag it across the sidewalk, and up the driveway... every 10 feet ages your wood 100 years, it's freaking phenomenal! 😳🤔😀💁👍👍👍

[@valvenator]

It works great on wood floors. A while back a local bar under new management decided to have a beach party for Halloween by dumping beach sand all over the floors. This was after they had totally refinished them. Should have done so after the party. When all the sand was finally removed the floors were stripped back down to bare wood!

[@JarheadCrayonEater]

This went from a joke to some of the best advice I've seen! Thanks, fellas!

[@sgardo84]

I'm from Australia but live in the US, back home you can buy cork sanding blocks for a few $, sized correctly to use a quarter sheet of paper. Blows my mind that home Depot and Lowe's don't have these as an impulse buy item at every register!

[@darren92redrum67]

Yea, i am in you UK, use to be able to get cork block in pound shops even

[@kernelpickle]

That’s because they sell the 3M sanding sponge things that are probably just as rigid or a little less than the cork.

[@daffydavidyt]

​@@3nertiapretty much every page on this topic on the internet disagrees with you.

[@OneTruePhreak]

​@@3nertiacork is bark, from an evergreen oak, and removing it doesn't kill the tree. The bark regrows, and it can be harvested about once every decade. How is it not sustainable?

[@maudiojunky]

@@OneTruePhreak The guy's just talking out his ass. The biggest problem with cork is its supply is short-term inelastic because it takes time to grow new oaks.

[@calowaykagan]

Another powerfully simple and wise video. When I watch you, it reminds me of finding that one person in the hardware store with enough experience to tell you plainly what works for the lowest cost and least amount of material.

[@stevenwymor1398]

3M also makes a rubber sanding block that I love using. Just enough flexibility. And it has built in hooks to hold the sandpaper.

[@thebamfordman]

I had something similar years ago. Couldn't get on with it. Much prefer a cork block that I can just grab and wrap the paper around.

[@Just_A_Name14]

3m is one of the most toxic companies out there and should never be supported Go look at all the stuff they make that sits in the body it’s whole existence

[@cannaroe1213]

@@thebamfordman I want to be that guy, but i always find my paper is too loose, and it tears. Even with a sanding block with clips i've got, the paper tears if its not really taught. Maybe with the paper folded all the way around and back over itself?

[@dhgmllcshea5038]

​@@cannaroe1213I flex my 30 year old rubber sanding block into a curve when I lock the 2nd set of teeth in- this gets me the tension.

[@stevenwymor1398]

@@dhgmllcshea5038 exactly.

[@carnsoaks1]

My English friend was a Trained French Polisher. He used the cork blocks just as you advised.

[@RoamingAdhocrat]

he taught Polish to French speakers?

[@georgemorley1029]

@@RoamingAdhocratNo, don’t be stupid. He obviously polished Frenchmen, but only if they were trained first, presumably on how to be polished.

[@mcp1978]

My dad is an old school trained fine and rough carpenter from Denmark. He has always had a whole bunch of old cork sanding blocks in different sizes, but most with tapered edges on one side (top side). I have never seen any cork sanding blocks for sale anywhere in Canada, where I currently reside.

[@traillesstravelled7901]

Nobody's going to notice. You don't seem to have the conviction my mother -in-law does to find a mistake I've made , and make everyone aware.

[@Just_A_Name14]

Well maybe you shouldn’t have married into a narcissistic perfectionist family 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@Ken-kb5fw]

@@Just_A_Name14shouldn’t HAVE! Not shouldn’t OF!

[@Just_A_Name14]

@@Ken-kb5fw who cares troll

[@nickpearsonuk]

@@Ken-kb5fwA sentence should start with with a capital letter whilst we’re picking up mistakes!

[@wimvandenbosch6657]

Another to the point , factual , informative , no nonsense teaching video from Stumpy. Me as a very amateur with entry level tools I always learn something from this site. Thank you.

[@jodilea144]

My husband’s hard rubber sanding blocks from his days of doing automotive paint and body work wonderfully for finish sanding my pieces. It’s the same principle- slightly flexible, but rigid enough to leave a smooth finish without uneven spots. I do like the cork block idea though! I figured out the trick of raising my piece with another board to keep a square edge quite accidentally, and only recently saw someone showing it as a “hack”…oh, how I despise what that word has come to!😁 Anyhoo, thanks for another useful video!

[@michaelpfaff8280]

I use mdf with cork laminated to it, and 220 grit. Works great for the final hand pass! 👍

[@traillesstravelled7901]

Yup, I do the exact same thing.

[@TaylerMade]

as a retired furniture maker i have to agree about the rubbish often espoused by people in youtube. generally speaking, even though i have electric sanders, i prefer to use a finishing plane on a piece to take off a very fine shaving and leave a perfect surface. or maybe a scraper. but once you have that immaculate surface you then need to rough it up to take a finish which is where a quick flick with some 180 leaves a surface for the finish to adhere to. personally i never go over 180 in grit. i may go to 220 for pieces like small boxes that are getting a lot of up close tactile use. anything over 220 is more about the person thinking they are doing great work than reality.

[@bradcofo]

I agree for MOST finishes. I've lately been using a hardwax oil finish for things that will be handled and touched a lot, and there is a MASSIVE difference between 220 and even 400. I've found that my preference for a hardwax oil is to use a finish plane, then lightly sand with 400 grit. The feel of wax on a 400 grit surface over a planed surface is something I haven't found on any other finish. To me, it feels like if glass was soft.

[@TheWebstaff]

​@@bradcofothis. I'm not a "wood worker" but I'm starting to dabble. Yeah 360 grit vs 200 I can feel the difference where I've been making things out of some old beech flooring.

[@bradcofo]

@@TheWebstaff It makes a big difference when using some finishes, if it's a penetrating finish like wax/oil. If you are using a film finish like a urethane or lacquer, 180 won't feel any different than 1000.

[@d.k.1394]

Good comment

[@Whitepaint]

That cubitron sandpaper makes it very easy.

[@jamesheid4660]

Great video. My mindset when sanding is smooth not flat.

[@renoholland7090]

I picked up a used yoga mat for $1 at a garage sale and have used it many time in my woodworking projects.

[@BrooksMoses]

The tip of using sanding blocks to square wood looks quite useful! I came up with a similar idea when I'd made some shelves with edges that were way off square, and ended up clamping a handheld belt sander on its side to some pieces of scrap laminated fiberboard to do essentially what your shooting block does but removing lots of material quickly. Never thought of doing that with a hand-sanding block, for some reason, but it makes sense.

[@disturbedmaynard3873]

Pretty sure that if you were buying a block of cork labelled as sanding block cork, you would pay a lot more. I actually bought a folding 1 inch thick yoga mat for working under the car. Keeps the wife guessing if you are buying yoga equipment.

[@glockjay7400]

Ive been making sanding belts, discs, rolls, ect…for 23 years in OH, and sanding my woodworking projects for longer and I have never seen this!! Excellent video, keep up the great work!

[@martinmand45]

Agree 100%--final sand by hand. I have a piece of 4/4 poplar I use for a sanding block. Dead square and flat all the way around, made from scrap. A layer of leather(harvested from a worn out couch, I still have a few sq ft of it) on one side. When I want a rigid block, use the bare side or edges. I just wrap the paper--sized to 1/3 of a sheet--and hold it with my fingers. Works great and essentially free, except for the sandpaper of course. I recently got a pad with velcro sized for my sander's disks, and I find myself using it more and more. Too lazy to go tear off another 1/3 of a sheet, I guess lol.

[@Critter145]

Your tool videos are indispensable for which woodworking tools I pick.

[@wdtaut5650]

True words again, Stump. A few years back. I found some cork sheet in one of those surplus stuff stores. I put it on the bottom of my sanding blocks for all the reasons you say. Probably not as nice as your all-cork blocks but they still work. I also have a supply of hard blocks, for all the reasons you say. 80-grit, even 100-grit, goes on the hard blocks, 180 and 220 on the cork blocks. It's not absolute, depends on the task. You can also use the cork sheet to re-surface damaged and burned trivets. If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

[@TrustinChrist-truthseeker]

I see a fellow Red Green fan! As is the motto of possum lodge next to yours: "Duct Tape - the handyman's secret weapon." Them be some true rednecks if I ever did see one. Good to see a fellow handyman! Sincerely, JS

[@fidgetshouse]

My grandpa never cared for powered sanders. It took him a while but he always sanded his by hand. I am not that patient, but I always do my final pass by hand. Thank you for validating my method. You are always on point, James.

[@windhelmguard5295]

my dad used to be a carpenter back in the day, he only ever used the power sander for removing really stubborn finish or paint from antiques he was restoring. he'd usually start with denatured alcohol, then move up to paint thinner and finally to sodium hydroxide drain cleaner, before he'd touch the power sander.

[@actionjksn]

A lot of times I fold a 1/4 sheet and use my hand as the sanding block. I also have a small flexible block that is made for body work, it's only about a half inch thick and maybe 5x3 diameter.

[@Oldbugssy]

Watching your videos and using your tips and tricks are really boosting my confidence level with wood working. Here's to keeping all of my fingers! Well, hand sanding should be safe enough.

[@mykolashatkovskyi576]

Why I love this channel in the first place is the "another" level of understanding wood and how to deal with it. For all processes - physical, chemical, biological, etc. Thank you and please do not stop. Which I would like to see is how you would implement all this knowledge from start to finish. Smth simple, yet useful - stepstool, sawhorse workbench, nightstand, compact bench... You know - on some hands-on project?! Anyway, thank you again. Respect and kudos!

[@svanteuller7928]

We always used cork for sanding blocks when we learned wood work in school in Sweden in the 60's.

[@heystarfish100]

I really appreciate the fine craftsmanship, ideas and conversations on this channel by Stumpy and his channel subscribers. There are a few other woodworking channels here on KZbin where the person has an ultimate tool collection but really has no idea about craftsmanship or anything to be honest. Thanks for all you do James and a big shout out to all the great people here leaving their comments. 😎👍👍

[@orazha]

Excellent. I got my start using only wood sanding blocks but we were sanding the high gloss table tops. I've been surprised at how many woodworkers today seem to use random orbit sanders for everything. I use them too but will always use a flat wood block for if something needs to stay flat. One of the pleasures of sanding with a block despite the time involved is that you get to really see the wood you're working. And there's the pleasure of seeing the finished perfectly flat surface.

[@windhelmguard5295]

my dad used to be a carpenter back in the day, he only ever used the power sander for removing really stubborn finish or paint from antiques he was restoring. he'd usually start with denatured alcohol, then move up to paint thinner and finally to sodium hydroxide drain cleaner, before he'd touch the power sander.

[@averagejoesworkshop]

I’ve seen a ton of videos on the best sanding techniques, and you’re still only scratching the surface with this topic! 😅

[@fairguinevere666]

The other trick with sandpaper and glue joints is using a decently coarse grit can really make it disappear. A planed surface tends to have a slightly dark line at the joint IME, but scuff it with 120 to get it a lil fuzzy and it just goes away.

[@TomRaneyMaker]

That's a good tip and I'll have to try that. Are you using a block to keep it flat or is this by hand?

[@coreygrua3271]

Years ago, I commented that James thinks and works like he has a Ph.D in wood enhancement. All these years later, Dr.Hamilton continues to amaze and please me, making my own wood journey better and better. His equivalency to an academic master is profound.

[@roscoepatternworks3471]

Always interesting to see others showing the best way to do something. I always found, use what works, what you have on hand. I got maple sanding blocks for 1/2, 1/4, and 1/8 sheets. And one out of 3/4" thick rubber for 1/4 sheet. I rarely painted my patterns clear, but all near vertical surfaces have to be flat and smooth.

[@RuneCarverLLC]

😳💁 You are really going to stir the pot with this one! 😬🙏🤞 Excellent video, and i fully agree with the hand sanding, and plz go with the grain. Can you believe I've been blackballed from some channels for suggesting this is the more correct way... and I did not even get to the hand only, soft, medium, firm, hard, whatever sanding block, topic, just booted! 😳😵‍💫🙄😬💁

[@carldavis6902]

I have like five of them different sizes and lengths I cut a groove on each side for finger grip.

[@louisriverin2295]

You are one of the most clever on KZbin - Thanks You 👍

[@kswas2784]

I've used a fairly hard rubber block from 3M for years. It's made so you can quarter a standard sheet of sandpaper lengthwise and insert the ends of the paper into slots on either end of the block that also have small nails to punch into the paper to hold it. Works great and no special paper needed.

[@ryanc8188]

The coolest thing I have found if you really love your orbital pads is a sanding block that mirka has made, it's made of foam and has a hook and loop face and keeps things simple as far as your collection of sand paper goes.

[@StumpyNubs]

I've used those. They work OK but you have to be carefully if the block is too soft because you can roll over your edges. Of course, that's not a problem if you aren't interested in maintaining a sharp edge.

[@ryanc8188]

@@StumpyNubs interesting, the one I have is as stiff as a standard backer pad. But yes definitely not as stiff as a block of wood, but for just regular sanding they are nice, beats the crap out of trying to hold the disc in your hand and sand a bigger area 😂

[@MRichK]

I bought those carbide sanding several years ago on your recommendation, and I still use them all the time. I haven't noticed any wear on them.

[@toolchuck]

James, you have the best information and videos on sanding Bar-none! How I explain to people about the final sanding by hand is that you are “combing” the grain to remove any possible swirl marks left by the sander. This seems to sink in better or get an aha moment from those I’m explaining it to. All the best, Chuck.

[@horusfalcon]

Sir, you are spot-on as usual, and eloquent as to your reasoning. Well done!

[@SellTheWorld]

This is so beautiful that I almost came to tears.

[@tintansigloXXI]

La esencia del diy, buscar la mejor solución en cualquier lugar posible, perfecto

[@charliemopps4926]

A tip I see a lot of people miss out on is to wet the wood surface between sanding passes. When you wet the surface, it causes the wood grain on the surface to swell and stand up. It's very obvious if you actually do it... wet the surface and then touch it. It feels "hairy" When you sand, it presses those "hairs" back down into the wood. The water causes them to stand back up. I learned this from using wood dyes (as opposed to stain) because it has the same effect. So if you want your wood surface exceptionally smooth, you have to use water to pull up those hairs so you can sand them off. It's just a very lite coat of water... Don't get it soaked. Just wipe the surface down with a damp rag and then sand. You'll be amazed how smooth you can get it.

[@IronCreekSW26]

As a 76 yr old woodworker, thank you for keeping common sense alive for younger generations.

[@RuneCarverLLC]

@@IronCreekSW26 Will they ever learn...??? 🤔💁 I heard my grandpa say that about me around 60 years ago! 🙏😵‍💫🙈 Have faith in the system my friend, Mother Nature has a way of working these things out... it just takes a few eons! 😳😬🙏🤞

[@mrfarts5176]

Unfortunately, it seems like having gay men like this as roll models for young people is causing them to be recruited.

[@Druss2012]

​@@RuneCarverLLCyea... I just learned. Thanks stumpy nubs for sharing common sense since these old dinosaurs are so reluctant to share their common sense 😂😂

[@mrcat5508]

@@RuneCarverLLCwhy are you using so many emojis?

[@RuneCarverLLC]

@@mrcat5508 Hi, Because they are legitimate and long established glyph-like protocol, and proto-alphabet like broad range of Asian, Canaanite, early Hebrew, Greek and Runes... these are all characters made of specific meanings (each character has s specific meaning), and are not random "emojis". Look up the ASCII (extended) character set, and research who actually owns the right to determine which are public and what they mean (hint: It's a prominent religious pontiff). 😳🤔💁

[@lunchrevisited]

very valuable expert knowledge shared by a true master of the craft. Thank you!

[@vikvanderhaeghen200]

Thank you for - again - a very informative video! Appreciating you spending the time doing so, already helped me out a lot in my shop!

[@aspensulphate]

Have never tried cork -- thanks for the tip, Stumpy! I normally use a felt block for final finish sanding.

[@Colorado-Tinkering]

I just placed an order for two Dura Grit sanding blocks you linked to. I think I’ll really enjoy using those. Thank you for the recommendation. 😊

[@DJe1957]

It still surprises me how every time the video contains so much good tips. I also appreciate that you're not shouting all the time.

[@mikebetts2046]

Hey James. I recently learned that you live somewhere around Saginaw. Nice to see fine techniques and great videos coming from my home town. I lived near the intersection of Brockway and Gratiot as a child then several other places around the county in later years. I do my Woodworking in west Michigan now where I've been for about 25 years.

[@Jizzlewobbwtfcus]

I'm glad I'm on the right track by using my electric triangular sander first to clear rough and stubborn texture and stains and then manually sand with a combination of a flat cork sander for the length of the piece and rounded plastic sander for creating smooth rounded edges. Great tips you gave here. Will certainly use them although not buying from Amazon. Ty for the video SN : ]

[@abqsammy]

Per your tips, I got a yoga matt and a block of cork. Both are terrific additions to my sanding game. 😊

[@larryk6330]

I attached a 1/2in piece of cork to a plywood block at least ten years ago. I still use it today for the final sanding.

[@steveksi]

I use an old Mat. Very good. All your advice is spot on. Thanks

[@oldtop4682]

Hmmm, something else to buy to make my life a bit easier. I'll order a cork block this weekend. I have an old rubber sanding block that works pretty well, and a more rigid one I made from wood - both are showing their age. Cork makes a TON of sense! P.S. I built the Moxon vise you showed a few weeks back. Man, I needed that in my life 40 years ago!

[@garyswergold4096]

Great video as always. I bought a carbide sanding block at a chow years ago but it is useless because there is a rim of plastic around the sanding area. Duragrit looks great. Also, I often sand with a new chalkboard eraser which is quite flat but has enough give to get into small defects.

[@CuriosityShopDotWorld]

I love the idea wit the cork. I used a wooden block but with felt glued to it so it is not that square hard under the sanding paper, but cork block may be better. I need to check :)

[@stevelacher8092]

Man! I thought with that title you were just phoning it in, but another great video. Spot on

[@timothyvolkers5343]

I just got back from traveling to my brother's wedding and I built a three bottle hanging wine shelf out of curly maple. I watched one of your past videos on sanding your fine woodworking projects and it really helped me out. The finished product turned out great I used armour all sealant as my coating suggested by some older gentleman at my local Rockler woodworking shop. But thanks to your tips and tricks from the other video the wine shelf looked great you could really see the figure in the curly maple. So thanks for your help

[@markhedquist9597]

Cork! Great idea! Never would have thought of that. Lots of great tips here. Thanks!

[@Timber2Toothpicks]

Man!!! You are seriously slowly but surely giving up my trade secrets that my instructors and my professors whispered into my ears decades ago. I mean really? BTW… I kept my belt sander. Yes I use my Stanley Bailey #5 plane, ALL of my BCT planes but a belt sander turned upside down…. Well it just works. Now the price of cork just went up. You keep going the way you are and everyone will be WAY better than me. I am just too old thats for sure.

[@PatNetherlander]

This may well be the best woodworking tips video in years! I knew the cork already (thnx for the cheap option!) but I’ll definitely check out the carbide blocks. Thnx once again!

[@Janduin45]

When we had wood working in school (about 25-30 years ago) we always had cork blocks for sanding. Fun fact: Wood, textile and metal working has been compulsory subjects in the Swedish school system since 1955.

[@garymiller5937]

Thanks for the excellent tips, James! 🙂🙂🙂❤❤❤

[@mcyclonegt]

Stumpy to the rescue again. Thanks for the tip.

[@Khazar321]

You know, my pops and me don’t really woodwork (all that much), we just sometimes need to make rough spots smooth again after working it with power tools. Be it metal, wood or even plastic. So sometimes we use a random woodblock lying around and then put sandpaper around it… I would’ve never thought; that such a random cheap quick solution, would be hailed as “the thing to do”. Sure it’s a little more professional with being glued and all, but the concept isn’t really all that different. It kinda made me giggle a little.

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

Great knowledge (as always). A seemingly ho hum topic, until you apply your finish as you said. Thanks again James, for your commitment to making us better makers.

[@ludnix]

Really great video content as always. I really appreciate how concise and useful the information you share is. I found your channel when I had specific wood working question but now I watch your videos regardless because they are always informative and direct. Thank you StumpyNubs!

[@kenea3226]

You are a great teacher and valuable resource.

[@11regnartseht]

All good advice. I usually just use a folded piece of sandpaper and my hand for final sanding. Steel wool can be a decent choice too. That's what my grandpa used.

[@dagashithellama]

I don't know shit about woodworking but I love your videos. Thanks man!

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

This wasn't where I thought you were going with that. It's been a while since I did any wood working, but I definitely used the blocks with sand paper. But, now that I think about it, I wasn't using a power sander, and I only remember using the block with chunkier sand paper. The finer stuff, I was using without the block.

[@emersonassis7154]

I love your videos...they are easy to understand (English is not my mother language) and each one has a lot of useful and technical information... Congratulations from Brazil

[@jmi967]

Using caulk to glue down sandpaper also works very well and has controllable give based on the thickness

[@StumpyNubs]

Interesting...

[@timpurcell2717]

WOW! Five tips (including the sander shooting board) in five minutes (playing at 1.75x speed). Great job!

[@rporobotjack3683]

I have always believed that your preparation work before you apply any coating is more important than the coating itself, if you want a beautiful looking surface. Lightly sand between coats and tack rag surface before the next coat. This applies not only to wood , but also to automotive surfaces as well. Thank you for presenting this video in a meaningful way.

[@davidakridge2831]

I see at the bottom of the cork blocks on Amazon it frequently bought with 220 grit adhesive backed sandpaper. LOL!!!

[@alanmcwilliams4264]

Always enjoy your tip and tricks, it has improved my skill level. I also appreciate your recommendations

[@Eduardomd54]

Always interesting and useful hints. Thank you. Greetings from México

[@schootingstarr]

I'm surprised that cork is something you need to mention. Over here in Germany, pretty much all sanding blocks are made of cork. I don't recall ever seeing one that wasn't cork

[@cs5982-n7j]

That's a really helpful tip, thank you. Great shop, by the way.

[@MCsCreations]

Awesome! Thanks a bunch, James! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@kij100]

When I was in woodwork class at school (a long time ago) all our sanding blocks were cork.

[@Rebel9668]

The last "grit" I use is 0000 steel wool and as far as I know they don't make any of that stuff to fit a power tool, lol.

[@stickyfox]

My wood shop teacher thought sanding was so fundamental and important, he made us block sand our chainsaw log clocks. It took the majority of the marking period, we all ended up using the palm sander at the end anyway, and we didn't get to do two of the other term projects. Also, wood shop class sucked, and I couldn't wait for it to be over.

[@andygallien6763]

I use whatever method is fastest, which can vary with the wood I'm using. On well-prepared stock (flat and uniform with a jointer and a planer), start as coarse as necessary with a hard block. Then work finer until the desired finish is achieved. But SOME SPECIES can be card scraped to almost a polish. Similarly, SOME SPECIES can be finished with a smoothing plane. SOME SPECIES come off the machines ready for the finest grit sandpaper. It varies. I've been woodworking for about 60 years, learned a lot from my dad and experimented a lot. I do use a random orbital sander on large surfaces as a starting point.

[@ArchDudeify]

I've just spent half a day sanding a snooker cue Exactly this issue - like the first attempt the aggressiveness on parts made it wobbly & you feel the tiny undulations when running up and down in hand - I ended up using a long strip on a flat roughing then finish pass with sandpaper on a leather on a thin block

[@4legdfishman]

Always helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@gteam53]

I always learn something from your videos. Thanks!

[@ReneArtoisMr]

Not to mention the quality of the sandpaper, I only use SIA for hand sandpaper and Festool for my machines.

[@1lllllllll1]

Every time I watch one of your videos I get really serious chisel envy.

[@justintomer2567]

Even in your example of a high gloss tabletop you can just use a thin coat of self leveling clear epoxy so even then it doesn't matter that you have a few low spots in the wood

[@JimRimS4S]

I believe you should not over 220 and always finish by hand. I find 180 is good enough. Super fine grit polishes the wood and if you want scratches use a hard rigid sanding block. Using a hard block can cause big scratches where the paper folds over the block. Remember when using a power sander, moving it fast does not get the job done faster.

[@seth094978]

I use fine sandpaper on rigid blocks all the time, but I work with metal! I can't imagine doing that with wood. 600 grit on polished granite will definitely produce a flat, shiny surface, but it takes like an hour to remove literally a tenth of a hair's thickness.

[@garypillischafske1425]

Great advice Mr.Stumpy! Gonna find me a yoga mat asap!

[@lugeraxhandle5095]

For decades, I've been using a small block of wood with 1/4" thick felt glued to one surface. Works fine.

[@edwardchester1]

Worth bearing in mind that the actual deformability of cork in a thick block when your force is spread over the large area of its flat surface results in minimal ability to adjust to the undulations in a large flat piece of wood - just think how difficult it is to squeeze even a dmall piece of cork like a wine cork. You'd need something quite a bit softer than cork for it to really be able to adjust to flat areas, i.e. those foam sanding blocks. Cork is a nice compromise, though, of providijg a tiny bit of deformability for flat areas but being rigid enough to help smooth out those areas as well as hold its shape for sanding finer parts (moulding etc). It's also soft enough that if your piece is small or not super flat (say, a table leg with slightly rounded off corners) it can deform just enough to be able to sand the whole thing.