Styles of Knife Grinds: What's Your Grind!

[@davidcrass4717]

Great video. How about a part 2? "How to Tell What Kind of Grind is on Your Knife"

[@10223220]

I like the saber grind and the flat grind but what I mostly like is the bump and grind lol👍

[@kipperwhite2976]

Good lesson TY Angle of the Dangle Matter's alot ;)

[@Eric-ew8jt]

I usually re profile my lighter duty knives to a 20 degree cutting edge. And my heavier duty ones to a 25 it seems to work for me. Thanks great video

[@supernoobsmith5718]

Depends on the thickness of the stock. A thin stock with a scandi can be MUCH sharper than even a full flat grind if it's a very thick stock. Your diagram of course assumes stock thickness all being equal. But the reality is different. There are many other factors, like broadness of blade for instance. Using the same thickness stock but one blade is broad and one is narrow, you'll get totally different angles. Then there are secondary bevels to consider, etc. The real answer is to have several knives with you at all times, :D.

[@halfcrazyoldchristianredne895]

Thanks Dan

[@Eezyriderr1]

I thought I knew stuff about knives. Now I don't know who I am.

[@jack41396]

There is to much choices lol

[@TonyTooTuff]

Anyone else groove out to the theme song at the intro? Am I the only weird one?

[@gordonterry199]

Full flat for me

[@BoltonMaverickoutdoors]

Scandivex

[@jorgeacevedo7934]

So saber knife list please

[@javiergimenez9621]

Since when is flat grind a better Carver than the scandi?? Wtf dude??

[@snaponjohn100]

Thank you for putting this video out, brother. I’m 63 and I’ve been collecting knives most of my life. I did notice that the two knives in the center both appear to be Scandi- grinds to me, one with a higher bevel than the other. A saber ground knife has the primary bevel starts maybe midway down from the spine but then there’s a secondary bevel that has a larger angle. So a saber grind is actually a lot more durable than a Scandi or a flat ground because it has the secondary bevel. The flat found knife should have a secondary bevel unless it is for cutting soft foods. You didn’t show that in your drawing. The secondary bevel and the mass above the primary bevel are what gives the saber it’s great strength. And you actually have to raise angle of attack in order to get it to feather wood. This is just my opinion. But I think I am correct on this one. God bless you. John

[@atomicpsych0]

This is correct, saber is a scandi with secondary bevel and needs to switch places with the scandi on his drawing chart

[@bobsacamano4]

There are tons of blades out there touting as scandis but many have a secondary micro bevel for durability. What then, would you call what's essentially a flat grind but with a larger angle than a flat as the grind doesn't reach the spine of the knife? Is that not a Saber?

[@sdriza]

nailed it

[@contact3604]

Come here, after watching you on Townsend! So impressed by your skills.👍🖐 Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and wilderness life skills. Moira From England.

[@tubbyrainbow111]

Brand new to knives here, you are a lifesaver making this video mate, thanks

[@erichjalmarson8896]

The point is, right on the far end of the knife 😊

[@KemAMP]

98% of saber and flat grinds have secondary bevels, which ends up being at approx the same angle as the convex

[@hudsonhornet6558]

Secondary bevels are yeah don’t like them haha but what he means by saber is kinda like a condor knife where it’s still a scandi but pulled back more flat it really depends what brands your looking at if your looking at actually bushcraft types knife brands you won’t run into secondary bevels I mean really at all just depends where your looking if your looking at more modern tactical type knives like yeah almost all will be secondary bevels

[@otobotrecords]

@@hudsonhornet6558 Like yeah, you're repeating modern drivel, like yeah. Do that stuff, know that stuff, like yeah.

[@TheNypenfan]

I fall in between a hiker and a bushcrafter, and I carry a small folding saw and a scandi grind knife. Works great for me. Still super lightweight for those 15 mile hikes, but can do Bush crafty things on my base camp trips.

[@alexandergutfeldt1144]

When I'm out in the woods, I have learned to bring two blades: a flat grind (2-3in neck-knife or a SAK) and a very small hatchet (3in convex cutting-edge). Thanks for explaining why that works so well. PS: In winter I also bring a 21" folding saw, for firewood.

[@bbtb785]

Me too - although I choose a Tomahawk instead of a similarly dimensioned hatched to save on weight.

[@sdriza]

same conclusion I'm at too - hatchet mucho importante

[@alexandergutfeldt1144]

@@bbtb785 I hear you regarding the weight. As I am fast going towards sixty every gram counts! But I prefer the splitting power of the hatchet over the tomahawk. Personal preference!

[@chrisheadley2980]

Thank you learned something about myself. I now know I don’t have any idea what kind of grind I need. Just kidding great video and very informative

[@qtquick]

He called me an internet warrior... still laughing because he's right.

[@Robert.Northwoods]

Already in the thumbnail incorrectly. You get any of the these grinds equally sharp. The difference is in the cutting performance as some of these grinds have more wedging/splitting capabilities instead of cutting ones. It depends on what you want to do with your knife which grind you should consider.

[@Adam-wl8wn]

I know it's not in the scope of this video but I think it's also worth bearing in mind the knife material and the effects it has on the behaviour of an edge.

[@stavio12]

Good info mate, can you make a knife sharpening video. Especially for convex blades. Cheers.

[@BarnDoor-won5ve]

Thanks. It only took me about 45 minutes to finally find a decent video explaining what the hell a convex grind is and why. 👍🏻

[@charlielila9287]

I bought my first bushcraft knife that is quite thick .25" spine w convex/sabre grind advertised. Cool! So how do I sharpen it?? Both at home vs field w no electricity....🤔🤔🤔 I keep researching yet no tangible method w/o electricity! Buffer wheels, "slack belts" I tried a whetstone n just scratched up the convex part!😮. Thank You! Your video only one that shared the balance between durability vs sharpness Thank You

[@EssexCountyPhoto]

My grind is usually slightly coarser than filter... (Bad coffee joke) Great video, bad drawings, thank you for your expertise. I've got a 25 year old SOG Seal and I never dared sharpen it... At least now I know what type of grind it is. Keep up the good work.

[@dmitryk754]

Convex can be very fine, slicey and fragile. Scandi is most brittle and not ideal for batoning. Some questionable simplifications here.

[@duckoutdoors1575]

Love the videos!! Keep it up. I would love for my channel to be like yours one day. I'm hopefully going to be the next big bushcraft channel.

[@fbodkin1]

I'd like to hear your opinion on the Condor Selknam knife. That convex edge brought me here because I'm having difficultly with feather sticks and the new knife

[@Macovic]

An flat grind being edge heavy convex. Like a full flat except having a microbevel that is convex. Is it a good compromize? Any thoughts? I think I would describe the Fallkniven f1 as a convex although it almost look like a flat, but carves great. It seems to be very durable. Thoughts?

[@r.d.sandman6474]

You did very well but your depiction of the convex grind is far from accurate. I use a 15-20 degree convex on my blades & will take the Pepsi challenge against the others on any day. But thanks, I enjoyed it.

[@treubuchet]

At last, someone promotes the sabre grind. All I see on bushcraft videos is the scandi. I too use the sabre, it gives me greater flexibility if I have the one, full-tang knife with me.

[@bibigreen6533]

It's cute, but in reality you can manage with any grind. People focus on gear too much. Just get something you like, and practise. Also, in my experience true scandi isn't durable, unless with a micro bevel.

[@larryn8]

At first look I thought that was a UFO parked behind you… Then I realized it was a hard structured roof. You never know… Aliens may need to learn Bushcraft too.

[@jonnyboat2]

I see that a space ship has landed behind you. Are the aliens taking a bushcraft or survival class? Just play it cool like you're doing and maybe they'll leave. Are saber grinds flat, hollow or convex? Never mind I found out elsewhere, they are all of the above grinds. Good thing I didn't wait to get a reply. I've never received a response to any comments on this channel.

[@evansmoak7182]

What about hollow grind? Anyone who can explain, please help me understand the hollow grind.

[@earthling01]

Exactly! That's why I carry as many as I can hold! The right task will present itself, and I am gloriously ready!

[@ursaminor3740]

Flat grind is my do all choice, sharp and still much more durable than hollow grinds anyway

[@dennisleighton2812]

It's interesting that you choose the 4 most difficult grinds to sharpen, while talking about camp use. Yet you ignore the one grind that is particularly useful for all non-axe related tasks, and is the easiest by far to keep sharp in the field. I refer of course to the hollow grind. The hollow grind will probably do more different types of tasks at least adequately, while not being excellent at any of them. What interests me most, however, is that most recent videos lauding the Scandi grind give it high praise for how well it executes fine wood carving tasks, and fine feathering etc. Now, this does not fit in with what you're saying. What is the secret behind this advice?

[@brianlash154]

Can we stop scandi grinding every bushcraft knife out there please? Scandinavian grinds were available in a rather small part of thr world back in the day of boats, walking and horses, and those without Scandinavian grinds got along well enough in the woods I personally find this particular grind is great at wood working, but is mediocre at best in every other category

[@lukeedwards8018]

Sabre grind has to be my go to grind for utility and heavier work. Axe for the heavy chopping and a small flat grind blade for finer work

[@Jinkiro]

I appreciate the effort you put into this video but I think it should be noted that "slicey" and "sharp" are different things entirely. It's important to know that 99% of flat grind knives have a secondary bevel similar to a saber grind. As a result, a flat grind is more "slicey" than a scandi grind due to the overall thinness of the the entire blade, which you notice especially when trying to slice meat/food, but the scandi grind can actually get much sharper at the very edge than the flat grind due to the lack of a significant secondary bevel. This is the reason it carves wood so well- there's no resistance at the edge from a secondary bevel (or very little due to a microbevel).

[@AlexanderIIIYanson]

A black UFO has just landed behind you!

[@kennnuthatch5724]

You have Great content, why no "likes" but mine?

[@davemcbeardface8976]

I thought I was the only one that loves saber grinds especially high saber grinds

[@askewedchimp]

I love that you are knowledgeable, and that you share that knowledge about things that others want to know but that veteran bushcrafters don't realize others need mentorship with. You're awesome, Dan!

[@ROE1300]

👍 convex edge - Nuff Said!

[@joe-dp3ng]

The 3 grinds that are totally different are convex, hollow and flat. Saber and scandi are simply an offshoot of flat as the difference is well after the edge.

[@erichjalmarson8896]

What about a hollow grind ?

[@hyenapeacekeeper2220]

Jokes on you, ferraris are super unreliable and cost thousands for maintenance and repair. Oh the fun of being into bushcraft and cars...

[@warlantactical]

Not true about a saber grind when you said not good at battoning a saber is like a wedge if done right and is my favorite grind for processing wood . Its also great for quartering game . Also you touched on durability saber has the most meat when again done right

[@mircolaufer4796]

Ty you helped me already but the biggest question for me rn is what’s the worst to sharp ? And so on and yeah still what’s the best grind for edc prob a holo?

[@askewedchimp]

Would have been helpful if you included degrees and angles for people. So what degree angle is a flat versus a sabre? What is that versus a hallow or a Scandi?

[@brianmiller2739]

Great video..i try and tell people the same philosophy..it goes for guns and outdoor wear as well...what are you doing for the tool you need

[@batbrains187]

🔥 great video 🔥

[@jdeveau]

Can we get real life examples?

[@NobleSavage44]

Jdeveau, Convex: most any ax. Scandi: Mora Garberg. Saber: Buck General. Flat: most pocket slip joints, scalpel.

[@boudhanotdead8855]

@@NobleSavage44 Would the Mora Heavy Duty qualify as saber as well, with its 27 degrees blade?

[@CommonCentsOutdoorsman]

I sharpen my knives by hand and end up with some kind of weird asymmetrical hollowed out half flat saber scandivex kinda thing. But this grind coupled with the right blade and handle geometry is absolutely Brilliant!

[@CommonCentsOutdoorsman]

@Paul Sharman lol thanks.

[@briandetrick2688]

a skandi Isa flat grind a saber grind hasta 2ndere grind got them backwards

[@mrwes100]

the Karl Rove of bushcraft :)

[@mikeleuchs1326]

Good explanation. What angle do you prefer to sharpen it?

[@annpeet4334]

Wow... Great learning. Will sure miss seeing you at Uitwaaien and learning more, but will look forward to next year.

[@Mandalore06]

Thumbs up if you've got mass behind.

[@ballisticcoefficientdepend9811]

THANK YOU! I've heard of ALL of the different types of grinds on a blade...minus what each one is best for! I'm beyond thankful for this video, and it really makes perfect sense. Thanks so much for this video! Stay safe out there!

[@squirts1]

full flat is best for full through slicing and food prep. Saber grind will perform pretty much the same as a full flat on most tasks except will have more mass and a broader blade overall making it worse for through slicing, but maybe better for chopping/splitting. Scandi is best for bushcrafting not because it's tougher, but because there is no secondary bevel... meaning you can consistently make very fine feather sticks and easily carve precisely. It gives you very easy control of the edge and depth of cut in wood. Honestly, the Scandi grind is basically the best grind for everything (feather sticks, chopping, carving, etc) except maybe thin slicing foods.

[@trailwomanrc]

I had a Schrade SCHF51 hollow grind that was too deep and off center making it weak in the middle of the primary grind and horrible for feather sticking right handed. I then bought a thick flat grind Ontario tak1. Great feather sticking and thick enough to baton carefully. Otherwise I'd pick a saber grind like a ESEE 5. They do sound like a good all arounder.

[@alanmeyers3957]

Scandi is what I use for feathersticking.

[@shader26]

Would be nice to see the techniques with a whet stone for getting those grinds. I (no expert at all) think I’ve been doing the third one as I usually raise my knife edge slightly when using a whet stone. Guessing the drawings are exaggerated to make the point (no pun intended)

[@oleksandrshumilov702]

How about knives with a concave lens?🙂

[@SonsOfLorgar]

I have some knives that almost has a concave grind, some sharp, most sabre grinds, a couple of sabre->sharp progressive grinds and two convex grinds. Funnily, the two convex grinds are sharpened bayonets.

[@GordoBondiola2002]

I got here searching what a scandi grind was and got lots of good info

[@CreachterZ]

Dude. You should teach this stuff for a career.

[@Dr_Xyzt]

I tend to use convex and chisel grinds. You can shave with a convex grind, but it takes practice to get a feel for the necessary cutting action. Chisel grinds dig hard, but give you the ability to lay the knife dead flat and shave the surface flat in ways that aren't always easy with a wedge grind.

[@hansfranson6570]

Aha, sex education in the woods😊👍

[@seansmart3440]

So helpful...thanks, Dan. I'm rather new to bushcraft and scandi grind seems to be the most popular that most people talk about. The sabre grind has rarely been mentioned. Your vid will help a lot with my choice of knife to purchase.

[@davishlamburnt3734]

Great explanation man. Thanks for the video. I'm taking my Coalcracker knife and other gear camping the next few nights.

[@GWHcraig1088]

I CARRY A ESSE 6. LOVE THAT BLADE. SHARP ENOUGH TO GUT FISH AND SQUIRRLES. BUT STILL CUT TREES

[@sterlingstoots3215]

Me too its the best compromise I have found my Trusty Esee 6.I agree 100%

[@tomrobison9690]

Give a demo in doing these grinds

[@tailu9719]

very helpful. thanks

[@tahoe829]

Excellent video , learned alot :)

[@glodandorin7807]

Concave grind holow ?

[@rudyperez7773]

Aww yes; happy little knife edges. Thank you for the great video.

[@davidaustin4910]

Clear and concise! Excellent explanation. OG coalcracker

[@suebrand4606]

Excellent explanation!

[@RhonVanErman]

Very helpful 👊🏻

[@droppoint495]

Thats not a knife...

[@williamjflaherty]

Clear concise explanation, thank you

[@FlamingEmberSeal]

I like mine pointeh.

[@squirts1]

There is a little misinformation or misnomers in your description of these grinds. For example... Your description of a full flat grind is kind of wrong. What you are describing is closer to a Scandi grind. You said the primary grind goes all the way to the edge creating the cutting edge. A full flat grind is the primary grind at like 5 degrees or something, followed by a secondary bevel at probably 20 degrees or even more for a large or outdoorsy knife. Scandi grinds will only have one bevel at about 20 degrees and take it all the way to the cutting edge. Ultimately the scandi grind will me tough, durable, quite sharp, and very good at bushcraft tasks including the finer work like feathersticks and carving.

[@davor6966]

Hollow grind?

[@susannschmidt6915]

I have to disagree with you on the scandi and convex grind . The a convex grind is if it’s done right as slicy as the flat grind but more durable and a scandi grind is probably the least durable grind of them all as it comes down to a very fine edge very fast .

[@alanmeyers3957]

Myself, I prefer convex for skinning and scandi for woodworking, carving.

[@alanmeyers3957]

And yes, the scandi is the least durable of them all, bad choice for an all around knife, if there is such.

[@ashmerch2558]

TBE is a big factor of durability as well... From steels like 8670, 5160, 1075 too steels like S110V, ZDP-189, Maxamet and Rex-121. TBE = thickness behind the edge Thicker is stronger, but thinner cuts better

[@tophat2002]

Cybertruck

[@larrywise8109]

Thanks for this posting. I picked up a sabre grind knife a couple days ago. Still getting to know it. So far it's performing well. 5mm spine 5" blade, 5" g10 handle. HC steel. D2 steel. Sabre grind. 5" handle. No hot spots. So far I like it. Tour the 1st person that explained the different grinds etc like you did. It was presented perfectly. Thanks.

[@Mrhoboo]

Thank you

[@andiklamt7719]

Great explanation!

[@moriel-bareli]

Love how you made this so simple for the conman man knife user who’s probably confused by all of the other videos and forums and arguments out there

[@billoutside]

As always, you make valid points intelligently articulated. Thank you.

[@308dad8]

That’s interesting. I knew edge geometry determines how well a blade like you say shaved or chops and that’s why nobody should limit themselves to just 1 axe or 1 knife. I say that but I only carry a knife during deer season

[@AlexanderBushcraft]

is this exactly the convex in the drawing?)))

[@r.awilliams9815]

Scandi grind with no micro bevel on my Kellam Wolverine puukko, convex grind on a kukri for heavy work. That pretty much covers my bushcraft needs.

[@markp6062]

Wonderfully informative without a lot of Blah, blah, blah! Thank you SO much for this!