SUNNY 16 / No Light Meter Street Photography- PHOTO BASICS

[@momenturastudio]

Another trick in my bag to meter with the Sunny 16 rule is to look at the shadows on the streets or walls: - dark shadows with hard edges: f/16 - dark shadows with soft edges: f/11 - pale shadows: f/8 (cloudy) - subtle visible shadows: f/5.6 And so on...

[@8oichi]

this may be the most helpful thing ive read since im always being told to meter for shadows

[@letmebereal]

What shiny water/snow etc?

[@amberhawke]

@@letmebereal Sand and snow scenes, use f22.

[@henrybaca1460]

Getting back to B&W film photography with vintage cameras after 50 years. This was extremely helpful and I can't wait to go out and try Sunny 16 formula. I want to shoot manually and stop relying on automation. Makes it more challenging and interesting. Wish the film was the same cost as the 70's though.

[@jemmojemmo]

Another oldie getting back into analogue photography. Had a disappointing set of negs from a recent trip out. Wish I had seen this sooner. Will go out and try again. Thanks for an informative video.

[@TimGreigPhotography]

You'll pick it back up soon.

[@SarahcBee]

This is the first explanation I've actually understood. Thank you!!

[@camilateves7847]

This is the best video explanation I’ve seen, thank you !!

[@arneheeringa96]

The one from JAK Photo is very good as well

[@Pysees868]

You explained the Sunny 16 rule really well. Looking forward to trying it on my Pentax K1000.

[@ryandavid]

let me know how it goes!

[@JayShackleton-dv9tm]

The best explanation I’ve seen. Thank you

[@KGeorge-1]

Ryan, this was a great refresher for me and very clearly explained. In addition to a few mirrorless cameras, I have several 35mm cameras that I'd love to use more often. Some of my 35mm cameras I can't find a compatible battery to work the meter nor do I have a working light meter at this time! Yes I can, as you mentioned compare digital settings and use them for 35mm shooting but thats not likely to happen! Truly, a perfectly timed and valuable video!! Thank you!

[@ryandavid]

so glad to hear it! Definitely hope that it's helpful. Thanks for watching 🙏🏻

[@manuelpujolbatlle7795]

That was beautifully explained. Thank you very much!!!

[@AFROTOGRAPHY]

This was very helpful. I tested this out the other day and I’m waiting for my film to return at the moment. I live in Louisiana but it was an overcast day. So I kept the Aperture at f5.6 but I kept getting confused by the shutter speed but for the most part I think I did it correctly. Now is there a method with shooting at night or indoors with no light meter or flash?

[@DemiKuo]

hiii thank you for this!! if shooting film with flash, can i apply this sunny16 rules?

[@bobagnew6030]

Hey Ryan. Thanks for clearly explaining this concept. If your camera's fastest shutter speed is only 1/500, does that mean you can only open the aperture up 2 stops (to f8), otherwise the shot won't be properly exposed? Thanks.

[@ryandavid]

If you're shooting ISO 400 film to match the 1/500 shutter (or ISO100 + 1/100, or ISO200 + 1/250), you'll be able to use any of the apertures available on your lenses (f/16 in bright sun all the way to f/4 and f/2.8 etc in less light). The beauty of it is that the shutter speed is somewhat "irrelevant" if you're matching the ISO to shutter. You should be good. Happy shooting and thanks for checking out my video!

[@bobagnew6030]

@@ryandavid thanks for the reply

[@Hubieee]

So for example, if I use Kodak Gold 200, I would expose one stop more to begin with, so 1/100. When I want to use f/2 instead of f/16, I expose 1/6400 instead of 1/100... (6 stops of light more than f/16)

[@mateuslpsantos]

Hey man! Loved the video, you're amazing. I have a question: If I want to overexpose my film, should I also change my Shutter Speed? For example: - Film: 200 - ISO: 100 - Shutter Speed: Still 200/250 or should I also put it on 1/100th of a second? Thank you so much!

[@ryandavid]

thanks so much 🙏🏼 So, If you're shooting on film for Sunny 16, the film speed should match the ISO/ASA setting of your camera (if they don't match, then you're pushing/pulling the film, which is a bit of a separate topic haha) Then to overexpose you'd either open the aperture more or slow down the shutter. But, reading between the lines of your question I *think* that you probably want to follow the aperture guidelines in the video, but slow the shutter to overexpose by 1 stop. Example: if you're using an ISO/ASA 200 film, use a 1/125 shutter instead of the 1/250 shutter...this will overexpose the frame if you're following the aperture guidelines from the video). Hope that's helpful.

[@kitrudd2336]

Great commonsense explanation. And THANK YOU for pointing out something that is never mentioned i.e. when Sunny 16 DOESN’T work. You just freed me up to shoot a ton more with my new to me 500 C/M and get more familiar with it. I spend half of every month in NYC for medical treatment and I like to make the most of the time I’m out and feeling well. I’ve wondered what was an appropriate aperture when it’s a sunny day but I’m walking down Broadway towards the Flatiron building. f8 to f5.6. Boom problem solved. Thanks again! 💜💜💜

[@GNDavid73]

so long. explain that in 2 minuts.. please

[@animegeek6118]

Some needs to learn patience.

[@die_schlechtere_Milch]

Thank you for explaining the reciprocity of the three different factors. But we can't see the aperture settings at the end of the video, because you blended in thumbnails of other videos, could you please position them elsewhere?

[@SneakyCaleb]

Im confused a bit an im not a new photographer I went to school for it haha. Surely the iso rating of film changes things yeah? From portra 160 to portra 400 for example. On a bright sunny day I should be able to shoot portra 160 much more open maybe around f/4 with a shutter speed of 1/250th vs the portra 400 yeah? I dont see many people dicuss this...

[@ryandavid]

Yes, absolutely. If you're taking away ~1 stop light by shooting ISO 160 instead of ISO 400 film, then you can definitely open your aperture up by the same number of stops (in this case 1) and create the same exposure reading. But the image itself is going to have a different look due to the difference in aperture, which is a stylistic or artistic choice. The whole point of Sunny 16 is to have a shortcut that lets you not have to think about stops and balancing the triangle in order to create "correct" exposure. Sunny 16 doesn't account for stylistic and artistic uses of the exposure triangle (or film stock, for that matter). It's about exposing quickly, on-the-go (primiarly for street & reportage where speed is key). Hope that makes sense :)

[@carldehergne9445]

super helpful thanks man

[@ryandavid]

Glad to hear it!

[@jamielikescoffee]

Thanks Ryan. How much latitude does film have, generally speaking? I mean, if you get it wrong by how many stops is it still OK?

[@michaelr5904]

What I love about this video is the fast pace of delivering great information. Not a wasted second. Love it. Great video!!!

[@matthewsimpson3515]

excellent video, and well explained.

[@ryandavid]

Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful 🙏🏼

[@michaelrice2993]

Have come back to this three times. 10/10 quality video. This is extremely valuable for someone trying to learn!!

[@ryandavid]

Glad it was helpful!

[@charlessummers7381]

Thanks for this explanation. I may have obliterated my first two rolls of 120 400😅😅. I will try this out and ETTR if in doubt.

[@ryandavid]

You can do it! GL 🤙🏼

[@bart4082]

Great explanation, thank you so much

[@ryandavid]

Glad it was helpful!

[@bart4082]

@@ryandavid I shot my first roll of film on my Rolleiflex 2.8e using your advice and the pictures came out so great! Thanks again :)

[@ryandavid]

this makes me so happy to hear! glad I could help. THANKS for sharing back with me. amazing!