Super Roof, Joshua Tree - 5.9 - Michelle Voss

Trad Climbing: Super Roof, Joshua Tree
5.9 - Michelle Voss
rockclimb.video
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Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum information in a concise way that is easy to understand and assimilate. For that reason most chapters are built on the knowledge acquired in previous ones (e.g., Rope Basics → Top-Roping → Lead Climbing → Sport Climbing → Trad. Climbing).
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Rock climbing is fun but there is an element of risk. In some situations if you are not careful, the chances of serious injury or death are very real. A safety oriented mindset is essential.
The right attitude includes not thinking that just by watching videos and reading articles you will become a safe and experienced climber. Experience comes with practice. Practice means making occasional mistakes and learning from them.
We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing your level and every situation.
Our videos are meant to inform and entertain. Although our videos can be very helpful, they are not meant to replace in-person teaching by a qualified professional, nor they are meant to replace reading and understanding the instructions and manuals of rock climbing equipment-which we strongly advise you to do. (Manufacturers recommendations occasionally change, and it is a good idea to stay updated by visiting their websites.)
Have fun and be safe out there!

[@robertito_dobbs]

Really nicely shot! Great work on both the climb and video production. Nice to see well produced footage of people climbing things that aren't 5.12+ :)

[@videoracles]

Thank you!

[@joshlemonds7054]

Nice lead. Great footage between the two cameras.

[@videoracles]

Thank you!

[@nelsonianb1289]

Relatable climbing! Great!

[@michael_angelo]

This is filmed so well, and I enjoy watching climbs I could theoretically pull off.

[@randydewees7338]

Did this one with Kelly Vought (The Troll) way back in 78/79. Somebody had left some of their rack at the base ledge - 4 of the then just out Wild Country Friends (!!!!). We divided the find, doubly the number of the precious Friends on our racks. We hung out there for a bit, but nobody came looking, probably didn't know until the next climbing trip. I remember the climb being pretty good but not as hair raising as I expected.

[@awkwardbbq8332]

Awesome. I climbed that in 94. Remember getting the rope struck in the crack lol

[@TheK7aloha]

Sweet job sista!!!! I know that feeling! Way to keep your MIND and Breath in control! Beautiful!

[@progressivefrog3681]

A fine, short and very intense route. I first did it with twin ropes, starting the 2nd rope clips after I'd turned the roof. I think it might've been easier that way. This was a brilliant, and very well done lead, superb use of protection and nice control turning the roof. Excellent video editing as well. Made it a fun, enjoyable watch. Finally, if you ever do Orgasm at Devil's Lake (yes, that really is its name), this is a good simulation climb. The similarities are amazing.The only difference is that at DL, the route is "5.8." Yeah...Don't believe that.

[@stelz750]

I love this route

[@georgebaldwin5456]

Nice powerful effort. Leanred a lot about placements watching Michelle here

[@brendanrodgers5044]

Great video. Really well climbed. Got me psyched for going to JT if I ever get stateside again.

[@videoracles]

Thank you! JT is a beautiful place with so many routes. Hopefully you’ll get to enjoy it soon!

[@isabelgoyer6140]

‘86. A thing of beauty. Thanks for the lovely video.

[@user-py3jd2it5d]

Great send! Great video!

[@seananderson5450]

I love J -Tree

[@lanceyoung9921]

That quartz monzonite is so goooooood! Thanks for the content, great videos, nice to such high def!!

[@videoracles]

Thank you! Looking at your comment, you probably already know how the Joshua Tree rocks formed. Others may find this video interesting: www.nps.gov/jotr/learn/nature/geologicformations.htm

[@lanceyoung9921]

So good. Love watching that 4 placement turning the roof... With the chuffing... We're all mortal. So good

[@danielcrowley5277]

I'm always seeing these Joshua Tree posts and thinking how stiff the routes look.

[@CasaDelMandar]

Nicely done! Good rope management.

[@videoracles]

Thanks!

[@shawnlund]

Awesome lead and the edit was excellent. Cheers

[@videoracles]

Thank you!

[@dr.x.8614]

great 1

[@user-zx2gb4fi2h]

멋지오~!!❤

[@grumpygardner3059]

Crazy rope drag...

[@JustinConnor89]

Nice job!

[@videoracles]

Thanks!

[@mls01981]

Was this shot as two different climbs? At 1:00 she steps up with the right leg and the rope is between her legs, then camera angle changes and the rope is outside of right leg, around her knee. Either way, great footage!

[@videoracles]

Wow, good catch! There was only one camera on a fluid head so we had to shoot twice to get enough footage from different angles.

[@mls01981]

@@videoracles loved the video and it was worth the extra work for our viewing pleasure!!! Thanks for the reply!

[@tgray2735]

Nicely done. She looked like she could solo it.

[@gb4317]

Youre joking right?

[@martymarkenson3671]

This guy has a great trad belay voice

[@videoracles]

Interesting comment. Roddy McCalley who is belaying here, noticed the impact his voice had on his partners and clients when he was guiding. Consciously slowing down the delivery has a calming and reassuring effect. Here is a trad lead with comments: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iae5gZmfirJneqM

[@martymarkenson3671]

@@videoracles makes a lot of sense. I've noticed that difference as well

[@brianvirgin2995]

To avoid hideous rope drag, you need long slings under roofs

[@jameypulsifer9265]

I found it slightly unnerving she didn't give any of her placements a good tug or two before clipping/continuing on. I feel like it's good practice to sort of set them a bit with a couple good yanks to help keep them from walking......no..? Just something I always do I guess I assumed was fairly universal..

[@teogo]

Nuts, tricams, hexes, you bet. Cams no need to seat them.

[@konnormk96]

Beautiful video, really makes me want to jump on this baddie when the ankle heals. One question, What is that cam with the long red and grey sling? Did you have it reslung like that?

[@videoracles]

Roddy's reply: It's a great climb! Go do it when you can! Thats' a new generation red Aliens. The new Aliens are very nice-light, flexible, narrow head-width--and can be purchased with extendable (double-looped) slings.

[@BaluRamsha]

great lead and edit! is this a sandbagged 5.9? 🤔

[@videoracles]

Thank you! Grades are subjective and controversial ;)

[@brianvirgin2995]

I can't remember if I've done the route. I used to solo all the 5.9s around Hidden Valley campround. That one does not look like a solo. Anyway, it was things I had wired.

[@530eman]

Great lead, super fun route… did you follow it up with Hobbit Roof…?

[@armandoestrada-rodriguez7418]

and no chalking up!

[@staleyexplores]

baller status

[@saneasthenextguy196]

Shows you don't need a ton of tape to climb cracks if your technique is good.

[@vickhily]

I didn't see much crack climbing. Looks like a sport climber learned how to use trad gear

[@saneasthenextguy196]

@@vickhily Are you referring to this video? The entire climb follows a crack system, look at .47 and on where she has her hands jammed in, she then comes out from under the roof to follow a large crack to the top, and she has her arms stuck in places, at 3.52 and on to 5.39 for instance. I would call that climbing a crack, it certainly isn't what I would call a face or a slab climb.

[@westrig180]

Huh , I dont think she even used one footjam in that beautiful albeit short n sweet crack .

[@videoracles]

Here is a video where we go over 4 basic foot placements when crack climbing: rockclimb.videoracles.com/videos/crack-climbing/jamming-feet/

[@brianvirgin2995]

Funny. I never wore a helmet when climbing. Well, except when I did the Troll Wall with my wife. Rimmond Route before it avalanched out. We spent 4 hours dozing on Sentralbasen listening to snow melt

[@TurkeyMaze]

Can't tell which is more beautiful, the route or the climber.

[@boathemian7694]

Something about a woman packing iron… One can never have too many friends right?

[@jakemiller1467]

These crazy no chalk climbing women... it's as if they don't sweat at their hands.

[@gregrubio8722]

That's a lot of pro for such a short climb

[@andrebliss8206]

This guy released his brake hand from the rope. Terrible display of belaying!