Super Safe DC to DC fast charging for Portable Power Stations from 12 volt Battery with Etaker 1000

[@TheBigfoot567]

There's no other battery channel as clear,knowledgeable and Entertaining as this guy. Pulls zero punches-!!!

[@Nat_Sarim777]

Found this guy some years ago right when I was actually getting serious about solar, and because of his recommendations, my 2nd system was 10 times better than the first one I built, and spent less money. One of the first recommendations I remember was for one of the CNSWIPower inverters, I'd never even heard of them.. ended up blowing my old one away, for almost $100 less. Been doing whatever he says ever since. I try to toss him a few bucks whenever I pick his brain on something because he's saved me many times that amount.😎👍

[@jimthvac100]

I love the interactions with your daughter, You two have a good relationship.

[@wmsbrum]

I use a Victron Orion DC-DC 12/24-8 converter with my Bluetti EB-3A powerstation. It converts 12v to 24v 8A, charging the Bluetti at 190 watts. That sucker does get warm , and it was more expensive ($50 USD) than one of those buck converters but I didn't want to exceed my 8.5 A input.

[@ericvigneault1616]

@@wmsbrum will it take 36v from a battery and increase it to 48 or 72v?

[@jimthvac100]

Loved your video John! good information

[@STFOURNARIS]

They say it has a smart sensor build in and supposedly if it don't sense the vehicles vibration it wont draw from battery and it will use solar instead but i noticed yours is working fine. Reason i ask is cause i don't plan on using it in my car i just need to use my Teamgot 12v 300ah battery to keep my station running longer

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

It's in the manual when you get it. Page 3, This model amzn.to/4gWNIDV can be mode selected to be stand alone. Connect power, switch to OFF on power button, hold the mode button down for 6 seconds and you will see the wattage 400/500 lights flashing, let off of it and in 5 seconds it will set to stand alone and then it will pull from your 300ah till that battery drops to 11 volts ( down to 10% ) and disconnect. When it is charged over 12 volts it will be ready to repeat that program. You may have to repeat the process if the unit was shipped with STAND ALONE engaged already but a few tries and 1 minute in operation will tell you its doing right. Connect 300 watts solar to it to feed the power station and add 200 watts and a 20 amp controller to your 300ah and your in like flynn!

[@STFOURNARIS]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you good Sir, I appreciate you taking the time

[@melvinmccoy9830]

Great information, your honest and frank, and that's what it takes to educate people.

[@BucolicAholic]

Every. Single. Video with these battery guys they'll start out with the set up complete showing a snake nest of cables and they'll vaguely point at something and go "hook that to that and there you go". Just once Id like to see a dissembled setup and watch them set it up step by step explaining each component and its purpose.

[@joshuaw.hunley4436]

John, can you explain the difference between doing this and using the buck boost to charge a stand alone lifepo4 battery like you did in a previous video? I use a vsr and buck boost to charge a house battery in my overland set up. I did this based on a previous video of your's, should I change this set up?

[@marcfruchtman9473]

Very useful info. Thanks for the video.

[@apocalypticminister1369]

Thanks for this video brother 💪🏿 I thought about using one of those damn devices but, was concerned about exactly what you mentioned...

[@bigredinfinity3126]

I have the victron buck boost 100 amp great piece of kit can be programed

[@ericvigneault1616]

I have a 36v lithium battery that I use just to top up my ecoflow Delta pro, when I connect to the solar input I only get 315 watts, will this device help me to boost it to much more so my 36v battery will charge my delta pro faster than 315 watts? Also I don't care if that 36v gets fully drain is there an option to not stop it at so many volts?

[@bengates3081]

Why not use an adjustable boost converter to limit the current. They are only $20 on Ali express with display and cooling fan included

[@pr5991]

In Australia, 440w panels are now $98

[@stevenfaber3896]

I will buy as many as you can send me.

[@ElectrabuzzXD]

Holy crap! I'm going to pick some used ones up today for $150 each. I thought that was a good deal lol

[@jounikyy7715]

thats crazy here in finland 410w is 79euros, u live next to china and even mined there materials

[@andrievbastichy8551]

whuuuuuuut?!

[@Sylvan_dB]

Most power stations have a max solar amperage. That is a limit of what they will take. They also have a voltage range. I've never seen a problem if your buck/boost converter provides the proper voltage and is capable of at least 50% more amperage than the power station will draw (so the buck/boost only needs to provide less than 70% of its max). Excess amperage in the supply isn't a problem unless the voltage of the supply is excessive.

[@theGiggityGiG-is2kx]

​ @JOHNDANIEL1 hmm, have a very rudimentary set up using a xt60i plug with alligator clips plugged straight into my tiny Ecoflow river 3. provides 100 watts, max solar input. Now I am getting a bigger AC180-- 1152 wh Bluetti that has max solar input of 10 amps and 500 watts, was planning on doing what sounds like you are saying not to but if the Bluetti is pulling 10 amps at 24v whats the problem if im within the perimeters of the little step up module? Are you saying it's going to attempt to pull more than 10 amps?

[@chadperling2766]

The Etaker also has a fan.

[@AvisGrant-mu1hc]

I have the littlest Oupes an Exodus 600. Its solar input is 15-35v 15 a max. I was planning to do the Utube boost converter thing. While doing some checks before buying the converter, I just plugged in a 12v battery to the 7909 solar input. Well how about a 96 w charge directly from a 12v LFP. So what would a couple of 12v batteries in series do?

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Act like a overage of solar panels. It says 15 to 35 volts, the internal MPPT is also a current limiter but ONLY at volts under 15 volts. When you exceed 15 volts your may just send the MPPT 2500 watts.

[@macdui1012]

I run my house with an Eco Flow Delta 2 fed by a 24Volt 280ah Battery. I toyed with 48Volt. Oupes sounds like someone made a Power Station but failed; Ops! Depending on usage over the day will take 24+V 8 amp direct or 24V at 15amp through a buck converted. That's approximately 210 watts and 390 watts if I power up the PC. I'm tricking the Eco Flow not to assume it's input is not from a car battery but from solar due to the unique (still TBD) way Eco Flow handle their single port XT60i with + or - third wire. Ofc when I did push the 500 watt limit flipping that 3rd wire it took out the fuse I had on the buck converted not my power station; it may say 60V 15amp but hit 500watts DC and it will shut it down. I will admit that these buck converters are very hit or miss but due diligence and monitoring would have us aware of issues soon enough. The highest temp of my bigger converter is a nice bath water temp and if I stick a similar sized heat sink on the "rubber" side it drops 10 degrees. It's not exactly doing what it's stated to do: It should have been 48V at 8 amps but supplies 24 at 15 amp - it the same result however. Starting with a 12V system will ofc push converters and wiring, if I'm trickle charging the Delta 2 all day I'm getting losses from the inverter I have no control over so wanted an option that didn't involve an inverter on the 280ah side. It's 40 amp wall charger speced for being able to charge it fully during the off peak night rate but usually It's between 40 and 60% on any given day. Today Amazon delivered a 5kg bag of sand, a variable Volt and Amp buck converter and 6 gang extension with switches on each gang for my Delta 2 powered kitchen appliances. Fitted the 6 gang to the wall, filled up my chip pan with sand to begin my study of sand batteries; £7 seemed like a very reasonable initial outlay. Then this popped up in my feed. The fryer's thermostat means the Delta 2 is blowing it's fans every half an hour or so for few seconds so the 380 watt trickle is maintaining 54% even while I'm on this PC. Frying your power station and needing to blame something else seems very American by the looks of the rest of my KZbin feed since November. ETaker for $220+ no thanks, will see how my £13 buck converter does getting to my 480watt goal in the next few days. Sand Battery at a stead states of 120 watts on average and slowly rising temp. These vloggers never show their power stations actually running their whole home. He'll believe Biden eats babies yet forgive Trump for raping his daughter... But everything has to be a grift $12 dollars for a MUG good grief America! Who's the Mug? Red State Education?

[@r3d3y3z]

Ty for the warning. Will that etaker work with a 24v system? And can you flip the the etaker and use solar input to charge a 12v lifepo4 battery? Basically double as a solar charger for the 12v battery that will then be used to boost volts to charge the oupes

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

The Etaker and all others similar to it only boost to the solar inputs on Power Stations from Auto power of 12 to 15 volt input. However, using a VSR and a cheap solar controller or DC to DC LiFePO4 charger you can charge the 12 volt battery to increase your power stations ability.

[@jfox1992]

Nice vid. I really want one of these as I've just bought the Aferiy P210. The etaker doesn't seem available in the UK. Any other ways of controlling the solar and alternator input safely into the Aferiy P210? Thanks.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

You can try getting them via Aliexpress, s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBqzQw5

[@jw3843]

I can say the newer bluetti power stations limit the amperage when charging below 30 something volts to no more than 8.5 amps, I do not know what voltage the charge controller starts taking in 10 amps is set at. I tried to charge my ac180 with one of those buck boosters and it was reading 24 volts at about 8 amps, a total of 180 to 185 watts, if I do the math that is about 7.7 amps. It put in 957 watt hours worth of power into the power station overnight from a 100 amp hour battery according to one of my watt meters. Which makes it possible to use one of these to speed up the charging off of a 12 volt power source for one of them, but I understand what this video is all about. I would not try it on anything that takes more than 10 amps input. I would like to get one of those etaker chargers or one of the power queen ones. I think I prefer the etaker. But that is mostly due to the fact you can set the wattage you want it to charge at. Not sure if you can on the power queen one.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

The Power Queen boost to 14.6 from 10 to 14 input. 24 amps in that format, 40 total with solar added. So it is safe and current limited, but the Etaker has 3X the ability and much less waste. I plan to have 2 of them for the 4 power stations I use scattered about since I can send its power from the main bank to 40+ feet away at 42.5 volts in #8 wire without issues. The real solution is not having to put more holes in walls or roof to run solo solar panels to each one!

[@fabriceriviere9603]

Hello i’m ok with you but if you use a 12V to 24 V 20 A ( made in China ). Do you think is good for charge the Aferiy P210 with the alternator of the car ? Thanks you

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

A 12 to 24 volt Buck Booster with current limiting would do OK, those are referred to as chargers. So you'd be looking for one that is the amp rating on the power station and 29.2 volts LiFePO4 or AGM charger DC to DC to do it.

[@joezweig9202]

Hi very good video with lots of detailed information. Do you think I can parallel a 12v lifepo4 battery with the input of the etaker 1000 and the output of a solar controller? I would like that set up to charge the battery and feed the etaker which would be connected to my Bluetti AC70 solar input to charge the AC70 and also increase it’s capacity

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

You have to stay in the amp/watt input limits on the solar so I would simply parallel your 12V to increase run/charge from them and add solar to the Etakers solar input as designed. The AC70 can handle 500 watts solar, but unless you have four 125 watt panels you can't feed 500 into the Etaker within the input limits, so I suggest 4 of the 100 watt panels 2S2P arranged to give you 44 volts input to that. The end result is the solar will default first then the pair of 12 volt batteries will take over at night. Add another 600 watts solar and a 40 amp mppt to those 12v and your a serious contender for mini off grid.

[@andrievbastichy8551]

hey what do you think about the pecron car charger? You can use it like the etaker

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

5 problems I have found with the Pecron DC1242-500 that does not make its price worth it. After 2 months with one I refused a video on it. It has No useful solar input, PWM Buck Boosting charge pattern that many power stations reject, Failing cheap cooling fans already and too light of wire gauge plus it requires you to spend on your vehicles upgrade to handle the 55+ amps it actually draws. ( that requires 6 awg cables, not the less than 8 awg they send) The Etaker has all the cables, a ACC auto control feature, 500 watt Solar capable, Heavy 4/5 awg cables, charge level detent control, and uses full logic MPPT boost control. That is why I listed it under the video and not the Pecron! So depending on your intentions, how often you'd use it. Those are the realities. I think it is a handy quick item to use, but I doubt it will have long lifespan.

[@andrievbastichy8551]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 thank you for the detailed response.. 👍

[@Nera-whimwhams]

That is weird. I have the same buck boost 24v 10amps. I have 3 oupes units, none of them ever pull over 10amps. The Oupes Exodus 600 will charge at 240w, but the Oupes 2400 only charges at around 190w. I have read reviews that these buck boosts are a hit and a miss. Luckily mine has been good and stays pretty cool. I never run it unattended, of course. I also charge them directly from a 24v battery bank. The oupes units also limit charge from those too. The bms in my lifepo4 batteries also stops the charge from both ways I mentioned before, from reaching damaging low levels.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Your charging from a 24 volt bank it is the clue to why no heat. Your not in high amp conversion. Use a heat sinked shunt or toroidal transformer and just toss the buck boosters.

[@Nera-whimwhams]

@JOHNDANIEL1 I only use the buck boost when I charge from a 12v battery. I don't use anything when I charge from my other 24v battery bank because it falls within the voltage parameters of both my oupes units. When charging from a 12v battery with the buck boost, mine never gets very hot. like I said in my other comment, I have read lots of mixed reviews on good and bad buck boosts. I made sure to get mine from a source that had a lot of good reviews, and I have luckily had no problems.

[@r3d3y3z]

​​​​@@Nera-whimwhamsinteresting your setup sounds like what I am trying to build. Currently have a 24v 100ah system that I use to pull solar in. From that system I charge my various bought power stations. I am building a 12v system from a extra lifepo4 I have. I was going to use that buck\boost 12v to 24v 10a to boost the charge rate adding a 12v fan into the rig. How do you manage to charge your 12v system? Looking for some ideas, was going to use the same array to charge both but my current array really doesn't pull extra from what I use. Maybe more panels and a separate mppt I suppose hahah

[@Nera-whimwhams]

​@@r3d3y3z I have 4 12v 100ah batteries wired 2 parallel 2 series for a 24v system. I charge them with a victron 100/30 mppt controller hooked up to 800w solar. This way, I can have a 24v 3000w inverter hooked directly to the batteries, but I can also charge my portable units from it as well. I have a lot of family around here, so it is nice to be able to help them during outages. The 4 portable power stations that I have (2 oupes exodus 600, oupes 2400, and an ecoflow delta 2) all have different voltage input ranges (12v-35v, 12v-45v, 12v-60v), so the 24v battery bank can accomodate all of them. I just connected a cable to the battery bank and made adapters for the 3 different units that I need to charge. I may connect another one so I can charge 2 units at the same time. I still have my buck boost in case I need to ever charge from a car or something, but there is loss in that conversion, so 24v was the way to go for my needs,

[@BucolicAholic]

All I want to know is how to avoid paying up the wazoo for an expansion battery for my ecoflow delta pro 3 and diy a comparable 4kwh with two 12v 280ah for a total of 6,720wh. In series in parallel, how do I charge them, what do I charge them with where on the battery do I charge them, what gauge wire do I use and how do I calculate the size for future reference, do I add an inline fuse if so what amp and how do you determine, how do you use the batteries to charge my power station and do you plug two 5/16 inch terminals on the positive and negative leads on the batteries directly to the ecoflow with the xt60i, what if I wanna add a shunt where how and what, scrolled the tube incessantly and no one even comes close to answering any of these questions.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

I'll be modifying a Ecoflow 3 soon but I have to get some $$ built up to cover it.

[@kevsterman4053]

Could you you 2 battery isolators to charge one power station and then the other power station after the 1st one was full?

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

If you use the programmable ones you can likely achieve this, but the best way is a active rotary switch based design if you have such limited solar that you have to charge them separately. Smartest thing is add more solar and just charge both using a single adjustable VSR on them. That way when your main battery hits over 13.2 to 14 volts or 26.4 to 28 volts you can divert to the power stations the AUTO OUTLET value of charge which is normally only 100 to 120 watts constant as long as battery bank is over your preset stop voltage. I would get a single etaker, and just split its output to the 2 power stations since it can do that, and add 200+ watts or more of solar into it for that reason. Go to Temu, YES, Temu! temu.to/k/u8v09vtfzof And get you 4 or 6 of the renogy 50 watt panels, under $28 each. Run them into the Etaker, and just connect to your main battery the Etaker and it will default solar in first.

[@davef.2329]

Thanks. I noticed how excessively hot those bucks get no matter what you're doing with them. Gonna wait a bit on those Etakers til the price (choke, choke, gag, gag) comes down some, though.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

They were $270 and now they are about $220 with a 5% coupon on them about $207. If they drop below $180 I'll get another for the north part of the shack here. For the power they actually save me, its like getting a free 150 watt solar panel.

[@rickwaisanen]

The first flashcard was enough for me

[@michaelwillman7402]

Any thoughts on the ecoflow Alternator charger? Love your work btw! Completely agree on the dangers using dc to dc converters without understanding the full dynamics at play.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

The Ecoflow runs real hot, I have tested it and I returned it. No way to keep it cool. Plus its $130 more than the Etaker that has better options with Solar and Alternator. I suggest save the $130 and get the Etaker so you can use it in more places amzn.to/3Au86fM

[@Ernsto342]

But what is Safe in this device i dont unterstand. My Car have a 12 Ampere Fuse to protect all wires in my Car. My ecoflow. River is Limited to 8 Amos so to Plug Into my Car is 100% Safe. If i Plug in this device it will Draw from my 12 Volt Car battery 50-60 Amperes For its 500 Watt across wires that can only handle 10 Amperes. What is the Safe Part of this device? My Car battery and wires in it are Limit by 12 Volt and 10 Ampere so 120 Watt.

[@EricRamz]

@@Ernsto342 the etaker comes with the proper power cables, you don’t use your stock battery cables with it

[@stevenfaber3896]

I believe you John, but others may discuss on the oupes not being on car mode and whether or not that has an effect.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

All these have a voltage recognition design. 11 to 15 volts is car mode, you can test it with a regulated power supply. When you exceed 15 volts they go into solar mode. That is when the controller seeks to pull hard on the input from panels ( buck boost ) sources. It is then that the cheap boosters they are showing in videos with no current limiting do the damage. A current limiting boost module is 3X the price and not easy found since those goofy sellers are not properly advertising them.

[@theGiggityGiG-is2kx]

​@@JOHNDANIEL1 hmm, have a very rudimentary set up using a xt60i plug with alligator clips plugged straight into my tiny Ecoflow river 3. provides 100 watts, max solar input. Now I am getting a bigger AC180-- 1152 wh Bluetti that has max solar input of 10 amps and 500 watts, was planning on doing what sounds like you are saying not to but if the Bluetti is pulling 10 amps at 24v whats the problem if im within the perimeters of the little step up module? Are you saying it's going to attempt to pull more than 10 amps?

[@musicwiz40]

I'd just like to take a second to address what you said in the beginning of the video, using a boost converter rated at quite literally 1 million amps will not destroy your power station or cause a fire, so long as it is rated within the safe voltage limit for your power stations mppt input. These units have battery management systems in place to limit the charging current they will take from a supply. Running too small of a boost converter will however likely overheat and is potentially a fire risk.

[@musicwiz40]

also to address the issue of the boost converter over-discharging your battery, you can implement a LVC (low voltage cutoff) module (very inexpensive) in line with the boost converter.

[@musicwiz40]

TLDR, use a boost converter rated for well over the power requirement of your power stations max charging demand, and implement a LVC, you will have no issues, I have a setup for my power station that barely gets warm to the touch, and does not over discharge the secondary external battery I am using. You just have to implement it correctly.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

99% of power stations have limits to the solar input in watts, volts and the basis on OHMS law to maximum amps. For that they tell you the solar input limits. Using a buck boost without a current limiter is not only dangerous but insane. They are rated with their ABILITY in amps, not their actual temporary limit. The ones with actual current limit are specific made boost chargers, not voltage only boosters. Using one that can provide watts in excess of the input limits is AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you think just adding a buck boost with more amp output will solve the over heating then why not just triple the solar input amps ( same effect ) and see how well that works, after the smoke from the unit clears you can open it to see what burned.

[@musicwiz40]

@JOHNDANIEL1 wrong once again. The term you are looking for is over-paneling when you're referring to supplying more solar input to a power station than it requires, which is inherently only dangerous when running too high of an input voltage, As I stated previously. Any solar power station with an mppt charge controller will only pull the current required to saturate it's input capabilities. Your unit will not start smoking lol! If you don't believe me try it for yourself on a cheaper unit :) I have 4 power stations, my home, and my father's home all set up in this exact way for years now without a hitch. I have fed my power station with a battery bank capable of discharging over 1000 amps and still no problems.

[@musicwiz40]

As you said yourself, these units can only accept so many amps, the MPPT controller in these units regulates the input.

[@spoton5981]

John, have you seen the new bluetti elite v2? Looks crazy impressive for its size and capacity. Wondered if you had any thoughts 2000+ wh, 2600w output, EV grade cells for $1050 right now. Looks dynamite

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

I just worked to get a AC200L Bluetti for the 1972 Winnebago Chieftain 29.5 fifth wheel, our hopeful winter work inside plan. I'll be adding a Charger 1 module to it to boost from the 1000ah of 12 volt in the RV and 1800 watts solar going on it. This Winnebago is now only 2 known to be registered of only 92 ever built. In the 3 years they made them on pre-order only terms there was 92 in 1972 with 8 built as spec builds, mine and one other were of those 8 and mine is #4 and only 2 were made 29.5 foot all others made from 72 to 74 were 27 foot only. 113 made in 1973 and 56 in 74. So I have to go so so goofy careful to make it Hyper Tech yet solid vintage. Winnebago did not make a 5th wheel again till 1999. Their rep Charlie Kune came to Idaho to document mine. So we will be trying to make it right.

[@spoton5981]

@ cool!

[@cliffpalermo]

You trying either lithium cranking batteries yet?

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Yes, they are good for small cars. Trying to start my 460 V8 was not to its liking. I tried the DC House model, 140AH with 2 C cranking and it's nice for a car.

[@nathanaelhanson2412]

Do you still recommend the leaptrend dc to dc charger? I remember seeing that on your channel about a year ago. Also, glad to hear the ooops (lol) have improved their quality.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Yes, for all things battery bank to battery I think the Leaptrend is more stable than a Victron in my test and use.

[@FewerOptions-mx7qt]

If I was going to use these dc boosters I'd use 2 with a cooling fan

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Just use one with current limiting. Those are called battery charger buck boost, cost more, but they are not dangerous.

[@sarge1231]

One thing he says is wrong! That device will not run the battery down to 8 volts as he stated! A lipo4 battery has a BMS that will cut it out at much higher voltage...usually 10.8-11.2 volts. If your lipo4 battery does not have over charge, over discharge, over temperature, over current, and if used in cold environment, a low temperature protections....buy a better battery. In general, I agree with most of what he says. I too have seen these videos, usually as a means to add an expansion battery. I have a 2 better and safer means to do this. To expand with 25.6 volts, just use 2 lipo4 batteries in series. If the power station requires a minimum 32 volts, use 3 in series. You can also use this if it needs more, you can use a pecron 12-42-500 which is similar to the etaker 1000. Direct series batteries is preferred, because you don't have the efficiency losses that come from boosting the voltage, and the amp draw is split over multiple batteries. Warning! I am talking about well matched 12.8 volt lipo 4 batteries...preferably all bought at the same time, same brand! A series connection needs to be fairly well matched to avoid issues.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Watch it again before posting. I am discussing your car battery as well as the LiFePO4 in the video. And yes, they will continue to convert till they hit as low as 8 volts and as I said you will have a dead *CAR* battery if you allow it. Pulling any kind of battery down to under 11.8 is ( multiply if multi series ) is just dumb. Yet folks just keep doing it. 3500 cycles on a LiFePO4 if you read the fine print, 40X microscope required, is if you run them 90% down to 10% and back to 90%. NOT 0 to 100 to 0 killing the damn thing. Put down the koolaid if you thought 3500 times 100 to zero back to 100 is how to do it. This video was about Car charging a Power Station as most are using these to do. And your allowed to use what you want if you do not mind the hassle of killing your other forms of battery with it. My example of a lithium battery in the system is due to the lack of me having room or a large enough door to park a car on the table as example!

[@sarge1231]

@@JOHNDANIEL1 If that was the intent, you are correct. Drawing down a car battery with one of these will kill it quickly. That lipo4 battery you used in the video however would be fine. The BMS in it will only allow it to be discharged to a safe level. Those batteries normally carry a 5 year warranty, so the BMS is set to be discharged until the BMS stops it from discharging. I use these batteries to increase the capacity of my power stations. Mainly one for my fridge, and one for the sump pump at my Mothers house. They charge both more than fast enough to re-supply the power station for the power these 2 things consume. Extra lipo4 batteries are much cheaper than adding a power stations fancy expansion batteries. The videos I have seen using those 12-24 volt boost converters were for that purpose and included a 12 volt fan to cool them. Still, it is IMHO a very bad idea, and generally unsafe...fans fail! It would be better to use series wired batteries to increase the output voltage. Even then, a person needs to know what they are doing first. Batteries in series need to be of the same chemistry, size, and with the same BMS controller. If using the device you show for car charging there are still possible issues...mainly, is the cars alternator of high enough amp rating to support that much increase in accessory load? If not, pre-mature alternator failure, or a dead battery might result. I do applaud your video to try and prevent people from using these devices in ways they were not designed for. I was an electrical trouble shooter by trade, and shudder at the unsafe practices many employ with these power stations. Many use wires that are not capable of the high current they draw.

[@mannyfragoza9652]

i bought 2 different brands of those Chinese DC to DC converters and they both suck . They don't give me the power I need. I think a lot of the big name brands sell the DC to DC converters

[@bigredinfinity3126]

get victron such a good community for mods etc

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

When running a 12 volt thing off a 24 to 48 volt source the only way to go is a full transformer based converter. Very pricy. All that they sell is 12.0 volt output and it immediately sags in voltage. 12 volt things are really on average needing 12.5 to 13 volts. But no one sells one to really solve it other than a 8 to 40 volt DC to 14.6 volt LiFePO4/lead acid DC charger and a dedicated battery to be your DC pulling source.

[@edwindeleon]

I use a 20a 12-24v buck converter but only on the bluetti eb3a. The eb3a only draws 8.5a and around 29v max on the charge controller. So, it's been safe and running cool without issue bc the eb3a will never pull more than the buck converters 20a max. But I def understand the danger of these dumb buck converters. If you are a novice I wouldn't recommend using these buck converters.

[@JOHNDANIEL1]

Some power stations like a few of the Bluetti and larger Jackery have a input toroidal transformer, or a shunt saddle in them on the input, they are actually less effective with solar input by 4 to 6% but allow direct higher voltage from sources. However, that is about 1% of the ones sold on the market so Kudos to you for the Bluetti but if you test actual solar efficiency you will see the conversion is less from your panels so it may take a little longer to charge watt for watt compared to a Oupes, Dabson, Shell or older Ecoflow. However, its worth it due to the safer designs.