Super Safe Top Rope Solo Method

Hey climbing friends Im out road tripping so I apologize for the late post. I wanted to revisit the Top Rope Solo Topic (hopefully once and for all lol) for the climbers out there that would like more safety in the system. Hit that sub if you like the content and ill keep them coming. Let me know what you think about the episode and/or drop some knowledge down below.
Gear in this video:
Static rope (300ft): bit.ly/2ONfVFl
Altered Custom Micro Trax: amzn.to/3cRAzwd
(see this video for more info on that: • How to climb, Top rope... )
Petzl Rescucender: amzn.to/3tE3OZR
Screamer: bit.ly/3s3mhib
GriGri: amzn.to/38Tuqya
Jumar: amzn.to/2QlGH8g
At least 4 Lockers for Ascending and Descending: amzn.to/3vEVOts
Bunny Ears Figure 8 video:
• How to tie a Perfect f...
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Instagram - BetaClimber

[@fernandosanz4422]

Hello; excellent video as always. i would like to point out that if you are soloing (either leading or top-roping) with a two point anchor, the safest option is using two locking biners in the anchor since you don´t have a partner that can check the anchor set up as you are climbing. I use triple lock automatic biners so that i can avoid th e accidental opening as much as possible. If i had to use a non locking biner in my belay set up I wouls always use tape around the opening of the biner to prevent the accidental opening. Your method is safe enough, but I think that a very important part of solo climbing is fine tuning the system to avoid minor mistakes that could lead to us hitting the deck. The comment may appear too nit-picky, but belay safety is what the rest of safe climbing starts Sweet and safe climbs

[@BetaClimbers]

fernando sanz Good Advice I’ll have to pin this 👍🏻😁

[@dfjdskf9234j4fisd]

How would your partner (belayer) check your anchor while you’re climbing? Lol

[@fernandosanz4422]

@@dfjdskf9234j4fisd Your partner (belayer) checks the anchor as they are hanging from it. If you are soloing you cannot check the anchor as you are leaving it below

[@lilia3944]

This is a really informative video, but my first thought at the thumbnail was "ah yes, a top rope solo on flat ground would definitely be super safe"...

[@derekatwood6236]

I also use the microtrax and rescucender. That combo is exactly what petzl recommends as well.

[@ccaissie113]

Got that setup...learning, and will try it on a couple light climbs to get the moves in my body.

[@za8002fsr]

Been dialing my TRS system as well. Currently using single dynamic rope with microtraxion primary and ascension backup. Basically the Petzyl single rope setup with a couple small tweaks for comfort. Keepem coming Josh!

[@gimmepowder]

Same setup here. Just need to find something comfortable to hold the microtraxion up.

[@kristofferpresthaug8018]

Would be Nice with a closeup shot of your setup. ill be waiting for a hands on video of leadsoloing! 😁 Great stuff as always!

[@Jefferson-ly5qe]

Solid set up imo. Might want to add a prusik for unweighting the micro traxion on steeper routes.

[@rogerf3622]

Love your videos. It takes so much time and effort to put these videos together, I think some forget or have no idea how hard it is produce one, let alone put yourself out there. Keep ‘em coming. I think what you have is a sound system. And the weighting of the ropes is pretty critical as you said. Its all a matter of how much to spend on your personal safety as it can almost become cost prohibitive. I have the Croll and Rescucender. The croll sometimes does not want to release the rope when you want to take it off so I guess its not just me. Other people never have an issue. Other options instead of the Rescucender is the Petzl ASAP. The ASAP has teeth. In either case you must use some sort of energy absorber like you have. With static ropes and no absorber the sudden jerk even from a 3’ fall is really bad. It can mess you up internally. As you are climbing the Rescucender is following under you, so the actual fall may be 3-4 feet since you are above the rescucender and you fall below it. Of course you could switch back to dynamic ropes and you wouldn’t need the energy absorber. Just my two cents.

[@BetaClimbers]

Roger F one of the best comments I ever got on this channel thanks. Yeah that fall on the Rescucender would be a factor two fall. But something would have to definitely go wayyy wrong for that to ever to be needed. I pointed this out in another video but from what I can imagine there are two ways to have an Epic fail. Your shirt or other debris get caught in the main device or you unclip from it. I guess it’s is always possible it can be broken in some way to two warn out to work properly.

[@arthurbucci9747]

Some folks think that you should not climb, backpack, or even hike alone. You are always safer with a buddy along. Of course this is not always possible. Texas -- scorpions, fire ants, and rattlesnake dangers among others. Thanks for the videos, they are fun to watch.

[@MegaVagus]

The first episode was lit af ("disclaimer: don't kill yourself")😂 thank you and your family for your videos, always thumb up 👍

[@mapispecapac]

Never worry about the haters!!! They will even watch you and hate when you are on the toilet.

[@BetaClimbers]

măpișpecapac hahaha LoL thanks I needed that!

[@ccaissie113]

well, listen and analyze what they say, and then prove the truth....let them yak....is it so?

[@2wentytwoterry196]

Awesome video man. Also I watched your first video and didn't think anything was too terribly unsafe about it. I climb that way and have for the past two summers and i'm still here writing this comment so there's that. But appreciate you showing this safer method as well. You do you man, comment sections a peanut gallery

[@garethebbs4628]

Hello from Ireland. Always enjoy the content. V informative and as Jules Winnfield said in Pulp Fiction - "personality goes a long way" :) Been top-rope soloing for a while with the Petzl shunt (for when I'm on sketchier terrain - or like recently when I was experimenting with aiders for the first time) or sometimes with the gri-gri when I want bit more of a challenge. I could probably take a little bit more caution at times but like you say common sense and understanding limitations also goes a long way too. Take care dude, great channel

[@BetaClimbers]

Gareth Ebbs thanks buddy appreciate it! 🤙🏻

[@randomirish2]

I'm also from Ireland and learned tr soloing for lack of partners, there is a shortage of trees in this country to tie off on. Ailladie I just found out is dope for making top anchors worth a trip there

[@BetaClimbers]

randomirish2 sounds good what is the best month to visit?

[@randomirish2]

@@BetaClimbers it can be risky booking a climbing holiday in Ireland as the weather isnt constantly dry but summer is when you get the best chance to climb. If you come that would be class, cause we have weird ethics it's trad only.

[@BetaClimbers]

randomirish2 right on I’ll look into it I hear you got some good ice climbing too.

[@pauldavis1115]

Maybe you could try a rope wrench like we use climbing trees for work if you didn't want to use s device with teeth as long as the rope is weighted an u throw a sling over your shoulder to keep it in line the prusik will self tend

[@nickvehive7071]

Couldn't you use like a sling or an aid ladder and clip that to the backup device that you disconnected when you hooked up the GriGri, then step into the aid ladder or sling to un weight the micro trax and sit back and weight the GriGri? Just in case you weren't able to get your foot back on the rock to take weight off the Micro Trax and transfer to the GriGri?

[@BetaClimbers]

Nick Vehive hey stop trying to make things easy! 😂 lol yeah that would work, very smart.

[@danillo999s]

Why the static line? Is it necessary or just a personal option? Is it possible to use a dynamic rope with this setup?

[@sendit2873]

old vid but would a rope man 1 be better that the micro trax and nice travel gear as far as truck and camper

[@craigjerrells647]

Love your videos!!

[@niklassvensson9119]

I dont worry about theeted device on a semi static rope.. Most (or all) are rated at 4kn (400kg) before the sheat brakes, and you will never generate that unless ther is aloooot of slack when tope rope soloing. I like the shunt tho coz i can down with it. I find that edges cut my ropes more then what decive i use.. So always have some rope protecton/carpet/bag or redirect the ropes.. Alos, after working in rope access for years now im way more scared then before haha.

[@msilv8335]

I use a mocrotraxion as well. I carry a gri gri and a hand ascender on my harness (to get down or to pull through if needed). Setup looks good. Have fun and ignore the haters.

[@MikkoHaavisto1]

Nothing is completely safe. Best top rope solo method in my opinion is the one that is safest for the least hassle.

[@mylife-nw4xx]

Why do you use a static rope instead of a dynamic? I ask because my static line is more for anchors and too short. Trying to avoid buying a second since I have a dynamic!

[@BetaClimbers]

Dynamic works… but you won’t be able to start where you fall off. Depending on the length of the rope you can stretch down 10 feet. The shorter the route the less of a problem.

[@szabolcsgavaller9972]

One basic question, to which I never found an answer in your (or in anyone's) explanations: how do you get to the top anchor in the first place? In most areas, the top anchor isn't accesible walking, and is too high for the clipstick. A single bolt is unsafe to solo on Maybe 2 independent strands clipsticked into 2 successive bolts, and work your way up further with the clipstick?

[@BetaClimbers]

In my experience most areas have walk offs or down climbs I can use to get to the top of the climb. I then find something to lower myself to the anchor maybe a natural anchor like a tree or big rock. This particular spot you have to hike down to get to the cliff, so I was able to walk close the edge tie into a sturdy bush and reach down to clip the anchor. If I didn’t have that option I’d probably aid rope solo to the bolts from the bottom.

[@szabolcsgavaller9972]

Thanks. This is the point: reaching down to the top anchor needs another anchor, which leads to more trouble and danger than the climb itself.

[@szabolcsgavaller9972]

We have 100s of prepared routes here with 1000s of bolts so aid climbing, no thanks. I just feel unsafe to toprope on a single bolt. I guess I just go clipstick - 2 bolts - double strand, twin microcenders on a triangle carabiner.. Redundancy, check, load sharing, check.

[@pawelbialek8056]

8:30 - loved that!

[@geovannideleon7477]

How safe is fixing a single line of rope with a clove-hitch w/8 on a bite as back up while using a grigri? I know pulling the slack as you climb can get tedious and I def wouldn't project on this system.

[@kristijannemec6791]

Can't believe that this guy is still alive.

[@BetaClimbers]

Better believe it baby! 🕺

[@tacticaloperator12]

After I watched your first video I messed around with the concept enough to come up with doubling the rope, grigri on the L and microtrax on the R. I tried a shunt but couldn't get it to feed smoothly

[@craigcoco6014]

How is that working for you? That will likely be my setup as well

[@tacticaloperator12]

@@craigcoco6014 right now I'm using just the shunt on a single rope as I'm climbing well within my limits and comfortable, if I feel I need a secondary I'll throw the microtrax on the other line but the system can bind into each other under load

[@suezix8689]

Hi Josh. I've just started using the Lov2 for TRS, and you should defo give it a go, it's amazing: one device for rappelling and climbing, just like that. I use an ASAP as my back up, up and down, so in case (formerly) my GG or (now) my Lov2 fails - very unlikely for sure, but hey, if one goes the redundancy route, this is it - I'm still safe. Re. the Jumar, sure you can use it to ascend if you're stuck, but I used to use it for swapping GG for microtraxion and vice versa, it would make un-tensioning the main rope super easy. Over and out.

[@BetaClimbers]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2WZi6Oef9-ShtU 😉👍🏻

[@suezix8689]

@@BetaClimbers fuck me, I'd watched it as well! There you go, great minds etc.

[@BetaClimbers]

@@suezix8689 lol! 🤙🏻

[@TonySpinach]

Hey josh, is it bad to use a dynamic line, or does it strictly have to be a static line?

[@BetaClimbers]

I’d say it’s just more of an inconvenience. You need to consider this: let’s say you have 300 ft rope and you start at the bottom of it. You begin to climb up you get 15 feet up. If you just jump off from there with roughly 10 percent of stretch you might stretch all the way to the ground. So basically if want to run a project where you can hop right back on where you left off you are going to want to go static. Or your going to have to pre tension the line before you jump off but you will still fall a few feet.

[@TonySpinach]

@@BetaClimbers Wow thanks for the quick reply! Okay sick, that makes sense, thanks for the advice man! The best underground climbing channel 👐🏻

[@BetaClimbers]

@@TonySpinach 🤙🏻

[@MSchon-qf3fl]

TR soloing on two ropes is silly. If you don’t trust one rope, you’re doing the wrong sport. And nothing wrong with the micro traxion, but the rescuecender works better as a primary grab with a petzel torse.

[@alvarosandin9784]

I’m just frustrated you only have 35k followers so imma start commenting randomly to boost the algorithm

[@johnhomie]

Tight video. I don’t really see the point with two ropes. But I get why you created it for all the haters :). The best part of climbing is that you get to choose your level of risk. If you understand your systems that’s what’s important.

[@mr.poopybutthole3434]

Love watching your videos! :)

[@michaelmorales6011]

Yo f*** the haters your first video was dope and all your other videos are dope too much love

[@blakeseidler3577]

the screamer would be better off on the Microtraxion, then the rescucender would be more likely to engage first, meaning you don't have the sharp-toothed device catching the fall. The rescucender will be much easier on the rope and might give a bit of slip in a hard fall, so you may not need the screamer as much as you might with the rescucender. Mostly, I don't think you should ever use a sharp-toothed ascent device to catch an actual fall, cause they can wreck the sheath on your rope.

[@mountbeckworth1]

Not a hater, after all I am Australian, but suggest you learn to script your chatting, eg, Send Edition climbing site.

[@richardsmith9918]

That's about right

[@hummerchine]

Microtrax is the BEST!

[@joleylight300]

Lol. Appease the haters!! I use a rope man 2 for solo and it works fine. Really just comes down to common sense and being careful. Some people take it pretty far though. Have fun out there!

[@BetaClimbers]

Haha right on! Yeah most comments aren’t to bad but I figured I’d throw the haters a bone. 🦴

[@neilrowe5857]

I use a Micro traxion and a camp goblin

[@climberdad]

And still 13 dislikes? Never did a rope solo with a microtrax but I like the perspective.

[@joebello6102]

What do you think of the CT roll n lock for TR solo with a prussic

[@BetaClimbers]

I think I remember not using a CT because there is no way to bipass the always unlocked feature I’d have to double check that. If you can and it glides up easily it can be a great alternative. I’d also try a VT prusik.

[@drewtracy8450]

Solid

[@riverzdad5366]

Stupid question, for the haters mainly. When you climb TR with a partner you run a single rope, off of a top anchor, with 1 belay device. Why the fuck does anything change if you’re soloing????? Suddenly he’s solo and he needs 2 ropes, a back up and a main, a quad anchor for 1 line, a gri gri with a back up with backup knots. If it is that important for him to do they why isn’t EVERYONE doing that for normal top roping with a partner????? Last time I top roped it was me, to the rope, to the anchor up top, down to the belayer which was connected via gri gri. But, I don’t know.... I’m just a dumb welder🤷‍♀️

[@JonathanCamp]

This is a super delayed answer from someone who has yet to do this, but from my research so far one of the main differences is the fact that the rope isn't moving through the system in the same way it would with a normal TR setup. I think that unprotected rubbing along edges is the main risk here, and probably the main benefit of having more backups. Though, since both lines are running the same way, they are likely submitted to the same abuse. I think rope protectors and such would be a bigger help. The other risk I could see is if you top out and go passed the anchor and suddenly take a factor 2 fall on a traxion, which is something you don't want to do, and shred a rope.

[@dbtolley]

Today I used a grigri on one rope strand and an auto-block (friction hitch) on the other rope strand. Anyone see any issues with that? It was my first time top rope soloing , but it seemed to work fine.

[@towersknotflowers9067]

She sounds like a cutie. Can you show you quickest lightest weight PFAS TVLL setup following the new ANSI standards?

[@BetaClimbers]

Yeah She is the best I got photos of her on my insta. I personally use the Kong Back Up device that thing is bomber.

[@towersknotflowers9067]

The Petzl ASAP seems to have too much drag when ascending at lower heights...I am going to have to use the weighted rope tip. Thanks!

[@KelvinClimber]

and here i am pretty well and solid with just my grigri, but yea it has risks behind it, considering looking into other device's, but if you doing it only with grigri make sure you make knots as he said in the video as the grigri is known to have failed before, it is an assisted breaking device not an automatic breaking device, well made video, and honestly any solo climbing bears bigger risks than climbing with a partner

[@ragreenburg]

I was watching Free Solo and I'm almost certain Alex Honnold uses just a GriGri. Or at least that's how it looked.

[@KelvinClimber]

@@ragreenburg ​ @ragreenburg no doubt that he have used grigri before idk what belay device he prefers, but grigri's are belay device's that many people like, so it wouldn't suprise me if he used that, ive just gone over to a grigri copycat called birdie made of beal now, with the only diffrence from the normal grigri that is how it looks and that it will give rope a little bit smoother out to the leader making you able to almost use regulare belaying teqniq, ive fallen in love with that and im sure there is many other grigri copycat's out there, just make sure you know what your using and how to use it before using it as belay device, many people is belaying badly with a grigri and don't know how to propertly use it, search help from an instructor if you wanna learn of to belay with a grigri or simlare device's

[@ragreenburg]

@@KelvinClimber I think you misunderstood my comment haha. What I was saying is that Honnold also top rope solos with only a GriGri. That being said I also use a Birdie as well.

[@KelvinClimber]

@@ragreenburg well i actually prefer to use a grigri over a birdie when toprope soloing lels xD, i understood that, but just overwrote a hell lolz xD

[@ragreenburg]

@@KelvinClimber haha, fair enough. I have yet to top rope solo mostly because I have just started doing outdoor climbing instead of indoor climbing and now it has started raining a ton haha. Though I am lucky enough to live down the street from very basic climbs and about 80 minutes from a huge system that I will hopefully be able to enjoy in spring.

[@heli400]

One word: USHBA!

[@Rubble1]

Umm... subbed.

[@chris_nunley]

Screw the haters. Type 2 fun or go back to the gym!

[@domoorigatusan]

Hi

[@88woodbikes4]

Hey son,what do you want to be when you grow up ? I want to be safe daddy “; said no one ever ! The climbing community snobbery is off the charts. Just do you man, we can figure it out.

[@fabiankolf5458]

Hi! Hi! Hi! Hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii!

[@BetaClimbers]

👋🏻

[@MrryPopinzYall]

EPIC FAIL... LOL.

[@philphilphil]

Hi

[@BetaClimbers]

Philipp Marc 👋🏻