Surge Guard - Protection for your RV

[@smoberdeen]

Thank you for the video. I have the TRC 50 amp hard-wired model with the optional remote display installed in our fifth wheel and it works great....maybe too well. It worked great at home on 20 amps for one week before we left on our trip. We recently took a trip down south and at the first campground it didn't power up the RV because there was a low ground on the 50 amp outlet so we opted for the 30 amp without problem. We got to our next stop and couldn't get power to the RV because Line 2 was low on the 50 amp. I plugged into the 30 amp and got a faulty ground display. I started troubleshooting by plugging into our new Honda 3,000IS generator and received an open ground on the display. Now I was convinced the surge protector or install was the problem. I removed the surge protector connections myself and reinstalled the wires; Line 2 was still low on the 50 amp; but the 30 amp worked. When we got to our next stop the 50 amp worked without any problems. We returned home and it worked well on the 20 amps again. I did some research on You tube and found out my open ground when using the generator is normal. I had a male plug handy and made a jumper from the ground lug to the neutral lug; plugged it into the 110 volt outlet of the generator and the 30 amp worked flawlessly. Last weekend we visited the local state park and couldn't get power to the RV. The display indicated faulty ground on both the 30 amp and the 20 amp outlets. We had no power to the RV and all of the sites were taken. I plugged my circuit tester into the 110 outlet and confirmed the pole had a faulty ground. I then plugged my tester into a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter and plugged it into the 30 amp outlet. I confirmed the ground was bad. I decided to plug my jumper (male plug) into one of the 110 outlets then used my circuit tester to check for faults. The lights indicated the post was now wired properly. So I used my 50 amp to 30 amp adapter to the 20 amp adapter. After 128 seconds the display confirmed the voltage and amps were ok. In the morning I contacted the maintenance for the park. We disassembled the power box and inspected the circuit breakers and connections. The 30 amp circuit breaker had evidence of arching and the Square D box had some damage (melted plastic) above the 30 amp circuit breaker. All maintenance could do is replace the damaged circuit breaker. We put it all back together and after 128 seconds the RV had 30 amp power. About 12 seconds into microwaving some lunch, the unit powered down because of a faulty ground again. I reverted back to using my jumper plug and used the 20 amp power for the rest of the weekend. That's why I stated the TRC surge protector may work too well. I checked 5 poles and found three of them in the park had faulty grounds and no one who plugged into them were any wiser. If the surge protector senses a fault; I don't have power to my RV; but the people who don't have a surge protector have power and don't even know there is a faulty ground. I'm trying to think how I can convince my wife that this is a good thing; especially after driving all day and it's time to turn on the A/C and relax and eat dinner. I'm open to suggestions and criticism if anyone cares to respond to this post.

[@rveducation101]

It can seem like an inconvenience at times, but your Surge Guard product is doing its job protecting thousands of dollars of electrical appliances and electronic equipment in the RV. It amazes me how many campgrounds we stay at that have wiring issues. There is old wiring, improper wiring, faulty grounds and more. I understand its unfortunate not to have power when you really want or need it, but you can rest easy knowing the electrical system in your RV is being protected.

[@smoberdeen]

Thank you sir for the prompt response and for your service to our great nation.

[@jman1863]

Excellent video! Thanks for educating me in the importance of this product.

[@walterkanz7583]

So I lock it and the thief just unplugs it and disconnect my plug from the side of my camper and takes my cord and the surge protector, Guess you really cannot lock it all.

[@sohappytosew1082]

How do these compare to a Hughes RV Autoformer Voltage Booster and Surge Protector? Thanks!

[@everwharesismine]

I really appreciate your videos and these on the subject of surge protectors have been very informative. My question is... I was given a 34560 permanent install model that is rated for 50 amps... can I put in my 30 amp tow behind? These are rated for 120 and 240 but I would only be using the 120 volt input.... thanks for any help and thanks for your videos...

[@rveducation101]

My initial thoughts are it's probably a bad idea. You should contact Surge Guard directly. They have an "ask the expert" tab, here is the link. rvpower.southwire.com/ask-an-expert/

[@madondo01]

Dr. Doolittle, I'm not an experienced RV'er either but essentially your RV has built-in UPS. You can switch over to the existing on-board battery if you lose shore power. So the hard-wired Surge Guard doesn't need UPS.

[@rveducation101]

Surge guard says-Yes, in most cases, purchased RV adapter cord sets can be used with your Surge Guard products. Note that the adapter must be configured to supply power to both input lines of the 120/240V, 50A Surge Guard. Also, the power source should be protected by a properly rated circuit breaker, so the adapter cord is not overloaded.

[@HogOnWelding]

We have this one our Rv now this same unit. Works great!

[@19127bh]

We bought our 30 amp motorhome eleven years ago and have camped all over in it. We've never used any kind of protection for our electrical and all of our 120v accessories are original with no issues. Are the problems with campground shore power overrated?

[@Patriotschoicetransportation]

Can we use a dogbone from a 30amp pedestal to a 50amp plug and plug in the 50amp surge guard? Or do we have to have both 30 and 50?

[@crackerjack4u]

I was always taught to plug my surge protector into the pole, allowed it to read the pole first before I ever plug my RV into the surge protector. But I assume with the delay it really doesn't matter, does it?

[@rveducation101]

Over voltage and under voltage protection removes primary power from the load (i.e. RV Coach) when the voltage drops below 102V or above 132V (safe mode). continue reading in next post:

[@stevesealey317]

What is the smallest size or watts can I get by with to charge my house battery, 45, 100, I just want to try and keep my battery charged when I am not plugged in.

[@WVFAN1958]

Can you keep it plugged in all the time ... year around ? Thanks

[@rveducation101]

Over voltage & under voltage protection removes primary power from the load (i.e. RV Coach) when the voltage drops below 102V or above 132V (safe mode). This predetermined value is selected as the point beyond which electrical and electronic equipment is likely to be damaged if operated for an extended length of time. ....continue reading in next post:

[@niterider3131]

if your rv is 50 amp and you have to down step to a 30 amp do you need to have the 30 surge proctector also or will the 50 still work.

[@ManthatsCool100]

question for you if your plug in is farther then your camp site and more wire is required does the surge protector accomidate for the longer draw of amperage needed for the longer distance

[@rveducation101]

Surge guard says: If your plug in is farther then your camp site and an extension cord is required does the surge protector accommodate for the longer draw of amperage needed for the longer distance. Continue reading in next post:

[@FrankSchwarz1]

Awesome video Mark. Thanks for the info

[@MTLDmax]

It's a good idea but the issue would be the size of a UPS needed to handle that much amperage/wattage. Once you do some research on that I think you'll find the hardwired option isn't so back afterall.

[@rveducation101]

This predetermined value is selected as the point beyond which electrical and electronic equipment is likely to be damaged if operated for an extended length of time. The user of any protective device is urged to be aware that protective devices are not necessarily effective for all circumstances. Bypassing for this condition can result in damage of electrical equipment on the coach.

[@_user_..8922]

I thought you were going to show us how they worked? I saw what they did, and when, and how to plug them in, but no explanation of how they work. I'd suspected a couple of big MOV's or such myself, clamping diodes, etc. but... nope. Though they do work as good watchdogs. I'll admit that. And I'll also wonder out loud... why RV MFG don't include standard power filtering, even line interactive stuff like this better than nothing tho I'd rather see total filtering, sinewave guaranteed stuff installed OEM... yeah, I know you'd need a lot of batteries, and etc. but how clean do you want your power? and how long? For folks with a million dollar rig... it would be a wise investment, and very doable. At least provides them a way to shutdown properly if only a 10 min runtime...

[@doctordoolittle2800]

New to RVing - seems like a better solution would be a universal power supply (UPS) with spike, surge and brownout protection. It could be "hardwired" into the RV system between the shore supply pole and the RV. That way it could be stored in a locked area of the RV basement. It would also have a battery that allows time to power down sensitive electronics in the event of a problem or approaching electrical storm. Any thoughts?

[@kbbvwelsh9334]

I always lock the electric pedestal after I plug in.

[@BLohr707]

Sounds like they really need to make a heavy duty ring to come off the side of this thing to lock it up!

[@rveducation101]

The user of any protective device is urged to be aware that protective devices are not necessarily effective for all circumstances. Bypassing for this condition can result in damage of electrical equipment on the coach.

[@henryromero6736]

Secure it to the pedestal with an bicycle cable lock.

[@jmaguire7139]

This may be a bit of a dumb question....But....If parked in a place that has only 30 amp. Before heading out, do you have to have a 50 amp, 30 amp and a 20 amp protector?

[@ronaldrippen979]

Use can use a 30 amp to 50 amp doggone adapter.

[@ronaldrippen979]

You can use a 30 amp to 50 amp dogbone adapter.

[@ruco5775]

You might be able to lock the surge guard with a lock and chain.

[@ecrip40]

The anti-theft thing is a laugh. They will just take the Surge Guard AND your power cord.

[@TheUltimateScot]

what if the power cord is built in (on a reel)?

[@goldwingroadriders9236]

TheUltimateScot Now days the thief will simply cut the cord... No matter what, If they want it, They'll get.

[@sticksbass]

can you start an rv motor while plugged in shoreline?

[@jeffschwartz7923]

Two MAIN problems: 1) If there is no way to lock the surge guard at an RV lot - why buy it. Just lay a gold watch on the pedestal - and let the RV thief take that!!! If you cannot lock it at the RV park - DO NOT USE IT AT THE RV PARK - cause it will be gone after the first night!!! I have a very heavy chain that I wrap around the entire surge protector and the pole when my protector is attached - and a very heavy lock - that is close to impossible to cut!!!! Works well!!!!! 2) As usual - no price. Seems like a really great product - but is it so expensive that it is really not worth it? Should I keep looking for one that is not foolishly priced? I don't know - they want to keep the price a secret for some reason - maybe it is a $1500.00 item!!!! There MUST be a reason they DO NOT want you to know the price!!!

[@mautufaraniioapo2515]

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