Suzuki Jimny Restoration Ep. 5 - Tie Rod Ends & Control Arm Bushings

In this video we change the tie rod ends and drag rod (AKA drag link) ends, as well as the leading arm and trailing arm bushings on our 2008 Suzuki Jimny Sierra. Collectively these are known as the steering linkages and control arms (AKA radius arms) respectively.
Link to previous episode - Driveline Oils: • Suzuki Jimny Restorati...
Model - 2008 Suzuki Jimny Sierra JLX JB43 (SN413 T6)
Jump to Section:
00:00 Introduction
00:26 Removing leading arm
01:54 Pressing out leading arm bushings
05:06 Pressing in new leading arm bushings
07:32 Re-installing leading arm
09:34 Removing trailing arm
10:39 Pressing out trailing arm bushings
10:56 Pressing in new trailing arm bushings
12:04 Re-installing trailing arm
13:58 Jacking car and removing front wheels
14:37 Removing tie rod ends
19:37 Installing new tie rod ends
22:22 Removing drag rod ends
23:59 Installing new drag rod ends
25:33 Reinstating wheels and lowering car
25:49 Conclusion and Outro
Suzuki part numbers:
Leading arm bushing, axle side (x2 per arm) - 46282-81A30
Leading arm bushing, body side (x1 per arm) - 46213-76J00
Trailing arm bushing, axle side (x2 per arm) - 46282-81A00
Trailing arm bushing, body side (x1 per arm) - 46213-76J00
Tie rod end, Left - 48810-81A01
Tie rod end, Right - 48820-81A01
Drag rod end, Left - 48810-81A01
Drag rod end, Right - 48820-81A01
Tie rod or drag rod lock nut, Left - 09140-16023
Tie rod or drag rod lock nut, Right - 09140-16022
Tie rod (full assembly) - 48831-81A20
Drag rod (full assembly) - 48931-81A10
M12x1.25 (fine thread) castellated nuts x4, with 4x new split pins
All genuine part numbers were found by entering vehicle identification number (VIN) into PartSouq:
partsouq.com/
Tools and consumables used:
Metric socket set - 12, 17, 19 mm
Ring spanner - 17 mm
Open ended spanner or flared crows foot wrench - 24 mm
Torque wrench
Hammer (copper or brass preferred)
Hydraulic press (20T shown)
Press sleeve kit (Daytona DMPULS 27pce master press & pull sleeve kit shown)
Press plates kit (PKTool PT51603 bush/bearing seal driver 52pce master kit shown)
Hydraulic jack
Ball joint separator tool (Repco RST157 shown)
Measuring tape
Ruler
Jack stands x2
Small wire brush (brass brush shown)
Anti-seize (Permatex anti-seize lubricant shown)
Nitrile gloves
WD-40 (or other penetrating fluid)
Paper towel or rags
Brake and parts cleaner
Disclaimer: At 2nd Gear Low, we love working on cars, but we are not trained mechanics. We like completing maintenance and modifications to all sorts of cars and filming it for your entertainment, but we can’t promise that you won’t harm yourself, someone else, your car or your warranty by trying this. Talk to a qualified mechanic if you are ever unsure about any part of a job that you choose to try yourself.

[@geoded]

If it weren't for your videos I wouldn't have attempted various DIY jobs on my Jimny. I've done ATF, diff oil and kingpin bearings. Next up is new tie rod ends.

[@2ndGearLow]

Nice work! We're glad it helped.

[@geoded]

@@2ndGearLow Done it now! I just bought new steering rods from BigJimny rather than mess about with my horrifically seized, rusted UK ones - £130 so still cheaper than getting a garage to do it. Also you can tighten up the awkward to reach drag rod nut with a long extension from the engine bay to get a better torque on it!

[@tomjonezin8295]

This series is great. Looking forward to new Jimny videos.

[@2ndGearLow]

Thanks Tom, more to come soon, stay tuned!

[@MattBerryCustom]

Great job, I’m doing this exact job on the radius arms early next week. I’m fitting castor correction polyurethane bushes as I’ve lifted 50mm as well. Thanks for all your hard work and sharing your expertise, very helpful. 👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

[@2ndGearLow]

Thanks for watching Matt, hope it goes well for you. Appreciate you keeping up with the series while you work on the Jimny!

[@SwimRun72]

Been looking forward to the next update - and I'm an 80 guy. Immediate like.

[@2ndGearLow]

Hi Daan, thanks for watching. Great to hear you're enjoying the Jimny content! There's more to come on the 80 Series too..

[@keepitwheelz1983]

Amazing as usual 😁

[@2ndGearLow]

Thank you very much!

[@jetpacjimmy]

Be interested in a brakes and wheel bearings video, and fuel lines and vacuum lines for the 4WD. 😊

[@2ndGearLow]

Hi Jimmy, thanks for watching, and we appreciate the video suggestions! If you haven't already, check out episode 3 of this series (swivel hub rebuild) which includes changing the front wheel bearings and some details on the front vacuum locking hubs, among many other things

[@cryoine7194]

i own a 2000 model year jimny and it carries the hard lines on the radius arm so its probably the first set of them with the G13BB engine or possible the ones with the manual transfer case also if you find that you have the older types of jimny it is highly recommended that you do not use back the original bushings(new ones same part number) the geometry on those have been identified as a possible cause for death wobble, suzuki recommends that you use the newer part numbers aka the ones listed in this video

[@Corevena]

Any thoughts on rubber vs nolathane? gotta do myn and not sure what one to go. gonna be trying out some harder wheeling :)

[@2ndGearLow]

Hi, thanks for watching! I personally prefer rubber bushings, keeping it close to OEM. Use of poly bushings in 4wd applications, such as offroading requiring 'flexing', has been known to cause cracking of welds at the connection of the control arms due to their higher stiffness compared with rubber. Plenty of people prefer poly bushings though, that's just my opinion!

[@talkleiner]

Guys do you mind doing a video where you're changing the engine coolant?

[@2ndGearLow]

Hi mate, thanks for the video suggestion. I'm thinking of doing a video on some fluid changes, including coolant, in a future episode

[@minimaleffortadventures1158]

Approximately how much for all the Bushings? And did you order them from Suzuki dealer

[@2ndGearLow]

Hi, thanks for watching. The prices can vary a lot depending on whether buying genuine or aftermarket, and where from. Where we are in Australia, we buy most of our genuine parts from Partsouq.com, as they typically stock most parts and it works out cheaper even after paying for international shipping than buying from local dealers