The Body Filler Innovation You Can't Afford to Miss!"

[@bondobob21]

Had to laugh when you mentioned bad chad - Now that's a guy who can really sculpt a turd - all while using the floor as his tool box. I'll say it again Travis .......only the guys with the knowledge.... know that........ you know your chit .

[@walkertongdee]

bad c is a shit bodyman

[@walkertongdee]

and a disgusting person who blows snot on the garage floor right in the video.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

💯💯💯

[@theessexhunter1305]

Bad Chad would not last in a proper body shop as they don't tack and fill lol For most of his viewers it is good but. Get him lead loading some panels lol

[@dawinner777]

This guy is a joke! OMG a real body man would never mudding over and over. The pencil marks is ridiculous. Weighing the mud is ridiculous! I’ve done bodywork for 40 years and this guy and his technique is a total joke to people that really know how to do bodywork! All this bondo and waste of time and mudding the entire car causes shrinkage and so much more work.

[@crustydownunder]

I agree with the amount of hardener needed when applying filler in high temperatures. I've used less than half the recommended amount of hardener and NEVER had an issue. It will set off in high heat, no worries. I once painted a Holden FJ series, which was produced in Australia by Holden from 1953. I was only asked to paint it, as he had already done the body work, and he just wanted it painted to protect it. When I got the car, the body work was so bad, I told him I wouldn't paint it without redoing all the body work myself. It had been a complete nuts and bolts restoration, and I felt it was worth doing right. I used a cheap filler, and as it was during summer, I used less than half the recommended amount of hardener. The job came out great, and he was persuaded by his friends to enter into a car show a year after I did the job, and It won best body and best paint. On a side note, after I cut and polished the paint (10 months after I painted it) I asked his wife for some cornflour, to give it a final polish, and she gave me icing sugar. I didn't notice until I started to taste the sweetness in my mouth. But, as I was polishing it, I could see the fine scratches from the buffing compound disappearing like magic. It turned out like glass. I used it on all my best jobs after that. Thanks for the vids and the trip down memory lane. Cheers from Australia.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

That’s awesome thank you very much!!!

[@splender88]

You make it look easy but as someone who has done plenty of bodywork, I know how much talent it takes to do it right. I've met many people who do bodywork but only a handful that do it right like yourself.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you very much! Always improving 👍🏻

[@Ja3cques]

I just got rage ultra today because i was so sick of bondo.... i should have listened months ago when i first saw this video. Its game changing. I have like 60 hours into replacing cab corners, rockers and a respray on my truck. I would be a lot further along if i had the right stuff to begin with. No pinholes, sands phenomenally, and spreads amazingly. Its $150/gal here in Canada, but still worth it, especially if youre a newbie. You need something thats the most forgiving.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad we could help!

[@brianelhardt4606]

I’m riveted by your sense of perfectionism, your “work smarter not harder” methods, and most of all both your skill and passion for teaching - teaching itself being its own skill. Your videos are both informational inspirational. Thank you so much! (I’m also in SoCal).

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you very much!!

[@genuinejake9851]

Vids are getting better and better! You do a great job breaking this down for people to digest and improve our abilities. Thanks for passing your knowledge on.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you very much

[@immanutt4442]

Travis ... the dynamics behind the mechanics of proper 'filler' mixing application and sanding that you cover all the details with is amazing - to be able to explain all of that and showing exactly while you work you are an artisan Sir

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you very much

[@richardbartlett4075]

First, I want to thank you for this video. I've never visited your sight until now and already subscribed. I just started to try the body work, although I'm 69. I build motorcycles, high performance and repair. I just finished the 1976 Yamaha RD400 motor, very high performance for the drags. I'm going to use the stock metal tank, while the rest is a fiberglass kit. I made an attempt to "Bondo" and every thing you said not to do is what I had done. Not stopping when sanding was my biggest dumbshit mistake. One in a long line of them. Back and forth, Bondo and sand. I am going to start from your earlier videos instead of asking stupid questions. I grew up in Glendora CA and now I'm in Sparks, NV, out where I can't hurt anyone when testing my bikes. I understand that Irwindale Raceway is still around and allowing people like me to run the 1/8 or 1/4 mile drag. Thanks again!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thanks for the sub!

[@3n1fss]

This channel is by far the most accurate and detailed, play by play process of how to make your body laxer straight on KZbin. What gen of a channel.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!!! Lots more coming soon!!!

[@goneflying140]

Wow! When you mixed that large of a quantity of filler, I never thought you would get it all on the car. You really know what you are doing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad you liked it!

[@deegan727]

New subscriber here. I wish I would have found this channel sooner. I’ve done some Harley’s and some repairs on peoples cars(smaller/less challenges) . I’m now restoring a K5 Blazer, I’m currently in filler stage now. My biggest problem now is being efficient and I have been running into problems with not having enough time to work with the filler and I’m also running into sanding into and through the epoxy. That’s where the biggest efficiency problems come in because when ever I see metal I spray more epoxy having to wait forever to do anything else. With my work schedule of 5-6 days a week of 12-16 hour shifts spare time to work on my truck is invaluable.😂 I have a good understanding how to do this and have always gotten my desired results and people love what I’ve done but damn it takes me forever, so every tip I pick up is much appreciated. Thanks for posting.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Right on! Thanks for watching!

[@justinscott9389]

Possibly the best teacher on the internet for bodywork I have seen

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@oscarrogers9745]

I don't watch bad Chad he never finishes what he starts I'm 65 years old I've been chopping cars up since the 70s and the Finish is the hardest part I'm tired that's why I build rat Rod now

[@64b09]

Another great instructional video. Thanks for putting the time in to record and share, Travis. Looking forward to the next one.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@CoroPlanesLLC]

You had my anxiety at 10! I work in a 90-degree + shop - the time you spent working that filler blew me away! I am one of those 50:1 guys who works with 100g or less at a time. You made a believer out of me. I will be trying this product combo at 70:1! Outstanding!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

It’s a game changer. Hope you love it as much as I do

[@adamscoggins4553]

Thank you so much for giving us exact instructions. Most canels are just entertainment and yours is instructional and entertaining.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You're very welcome!

[@wyattoneable]

Even that your on a time constraint on this project you've taken the time to teach, thank you. Subscribed.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you! We appreciate it!

[@landonsheffield6160]

Thank you for this! I'm doing filler work over epoxy on a rough restoration project and your tips have saved me a TON of time. I'll have to watch all of your videos now. 👍

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad to hear it! Thank you

[@rogerstephens8980]

If you use the right filler you don't need epoxy the z one my belief is the lesser amt of layers of products the less chance for falture.epoxy is old school we don't use it much any more. It takes maby a month to cure out a

[@landonsheffield6160]

@@rogerstephens8980 My panels had some pitting from surface rust that I acid washed to clean metal. I put the epoxy on first to have a guaranteed good bond to the filler. Yes it does take a long time to cure. This is a slow resto job, not production body shop type work.

[@rogerstephens8980]

We have passed the need for epoxy i dont know if will hurt or help ill say the name for you the Chad dude uses it z grip it will stick to bare metal . A wile back primers weren't what we call metal to metal epoxy was the glue . Now alots o 2k primers are . My favorite is upol it is also pretty cheep.that is all we use you can mix upol as a sealer you could work youre filler on the top. My theory is the more products you put on the more chance for faltered. Idont use ppg because I have had alots of faltures . I use matrix 42 clear 2to 1 4to 1s have about half the urethane base as a good 2to1 and forget acrylic urethane.if youre keeping the car inside mostly a 4to1 is easier to spray but put 3 or 4 coats on to build the urethane that is what holds the whole paint job together.

[@joeshumo9457]

I used to try and sand my problems away and keep digging down. Now I stop instantly when I see a high or low spot. I’m having to remind myself to keep building up to flatness. I’ve been getting critical with my filler as well. I used to just randomly mix it up and spread it on but started noticing that if the hardness of the two fillers is different the harder filler stays high and the softer sands easier and goes low. I’m not even a perfectionist, but if I’m gonna put the time and effort in I’d like better results and keep moving forward instead of chasing low spots and waves that I’m the one creating. It’s like I might as well be hitting the panel with a hammer the last time out. Lol I’m finally getting the hang of it though and I’ve been doing much better following this advice than anything else I’ve seen. I’d like to say thanks for not trying to be hip and entertaining with a bunch of jibber jabber and just getting into it and being normally serious about it. Bodywork isn’t something to joke around about. It’s to damned hard as it is and can make or break an expensive project while making you a foolish time and product waster. Thank you.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Best comment I’ve received thank you!! Glad they help!!

[@franksgarage8551]

Such great advice. For those of us that suck at filler work, we need all the help we can get. Here in rural manitoba finding a good product is the biggest issue.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@AbdulKhan-cy3vq]

Thanks for taking your time out to make this video. We all appreciate it.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

My pleasure!

[@deankay4434]

Combining two different fillers from same company that have slight chemical extras, is a very interesting concept to extend the working window. Neat Travis! Excellent info in this video lesson and I have one outside the box to share. With the exothermic reaction taking place, I had one of those moments where I asked quietly then answered out loud “Why not.” Hot weather, same first build coat and still wanting the hardener ratio close to correct, as I left a auto parts store, I saw a tile shop next door. After 6 or 7 minutes, I left with a white glazed tile, 13” X 13” bright white and smooth as a church bench. I epoxied it onto a hard plastic cutting board with a hand hole out one end. It protect the tile by 1” (25.4mm) and placed by the A/C vent, in minutes it very cool to the hand. Plus, it was free, but this too is extra thermal mass that extends the chemical kick that filler does so fast in hot weather, it seemed like I had 10 minutes more to work it. Like your explanation of a tight coat, press it into the sand scratches or pores of bare metal if not in epoxy. I was shock even though it was a little heavier but always keep a snappy roll cart handy next to my work. I hate using a car hood as a temp storage spot for extra PSA grit rolls, Kimberly-Clark Wyp-Alls L40 lint free, pump sprayer with isopropyl and different spreader, grater and guide coat. Strange when something simple jumps up and makes you smile inside. Aluminum clad large commercial backing sheets was another from a restaurant supply store had major used items as these are stackable, don’t bend (Al-steel-Al stamped) like a dime blank. But I bought 16 for $1 each and have them on my MIG, Roll Cart and 10’ table w/folding legs next to my 2 sewing machines. They are stupid simply and work great to carry tools & product from job to job or quitting time in front of the tool box at 9:30 at night! Love the information, visuals, product and lessen well explained! Well done! Winters coming but SEMA first!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Someone long ago had mentioned putting a filler board in the fridge I think it could alter the filler long term but I can’t verify. Ultimately the best thing is doing filler in a temp controlled room. …. Maybe one day 🤣

[@deankay4434]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I agree, best to have A/C than freezer. I like my tile setup! It is thermal mass that draws down heat as excited molecules want to migrate to low energy. The result is cooling, the effect is longer filler open times. Have a great weekend but I know you got a crunch time on work for SEMA. Never been, don’t know when and never will have funds again. New washing machine in my future! Just what I wanted. NOT!

[@obssroberts1411]

so glad seeing you guys using cream hardener not the drop/liquid.. ... ive always used a old window from a car for filler ..

[@31acruz]

Thanks for taking the time and effort to put such a comprehensive video together, this was not easy to accomplish. Your company really cares about his customers to put out such an effort, well done and good job!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!!

[@davroscaan1318]

Being a hobbyint, I once spent too many hours on a 79 Trans Am driver side fender tapping and working a dent out of the curve in the body above the wheel, then using filler to get that last bit of arched perfection... it turned out great but it really hit home just how much work it is to make these things flawless. Kudos.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@NDB390]

Thank you for taking your time and teaching people the right way and slowing it down step by step and going into details. Much appreciated. Thank You

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You are welcome !!

[@CNTablet-sg7qx]

1st time viewing your channel. Excellent content. I like your common sense approach and especially knowing when to STOP. You're expediting the viewers learning curve. Bodywork and painting is how I paid my way through college back in the early 80s and it takes some practice.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you very much. We started in our garage and we just like to help out people doing the same thing.

[@phatridesgarage3760]

Thanks again for another great instructional video Travis, as always your techniques make so much sense. As a guy that is building his own cars and learning in the process your videos are a great guide.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you for the great comment. Hope to continue helping you in your journey. What are you working on?

[@phatridesgarage3760]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers Travis, Im filming a few projects for my own youtube channel, I have a 57 Chevy Hardtop still in steel work stage, a 74 Falcon XB Coupe Custom, and 72 Falcon sedan , the last 2 are nearing the bodywork stage , hope you get a chance to check them out

[@lorenzojaramillo5299]

is that a metal spreader

[@Ja3cques]

It took me legit 8 hours to fill and block out my 3rd brake light area above the rear window on my 2nd gen dodge. It took me 2 weeks to sand out rock chips, fill and prime my hood. Its crazy how much faster you can work with experience and pro grade materials and tools.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

This right here is what so many will never understand. Thank you for sharing this. It’s really cool that so many that watch us are actually in their garages struggling and making these cars come to life.

[@bigblocklawyer]

I weigh filler and hardner on my paint scale every day, and then make certain to mix the exact same size puddle with one stripe of hardener at the exact ratio. In Central Florida right now, using anything except Rage Ultra and Extra is practically impossible. If you mix other fillers properly, they go off while you're mixing them. I've used Rage forever but this newer stuff is amazing. I cringe when I go in a shop and see a can of 3M Platinum with a stir stick sticking out and the lid off the can all day, getting filled with bondo dust. This stuff is super expensive as far as fillers go, probably the most expensive, but having pinholes or mapping come back 6 months later is infinitely more expensive. Well done.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Well said! Thank you!

[@mercedesmaintenance.6339]

Great video!! I often thought to myself when I saw people adding the hardener to filler, it seemed to be guess work. There's no way it could be exactly consistent. Your scale method makes so much sense. I work with wood all day long for my job restoring Antique furniture. Your shaping/ sculpting methods remind me of carving and shaping in wood, making everything flow. Thanks again. 🍻 Cheers John.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Yes very similar techniques I would imagine. Thanks for watching!

[@davidmcpherson7451]

The man who taught me p&b worked his bondo with a CP grinder. Then finished with air file and blocks. Amazingly fast and straight and flat with perfect contours and symmetry! He was a perfectionist! We both old and retired now and HATE body and paint work. 😂

[@geneva760]

I learned to do the 'roughing' with a 9" sander and a stickit 80 grit and sometimes also used a panel file - but - using a panel file incorrectly can slice the filler, hence it takes a lot of careful attention and knowing how to read the movement of the file, but once perfected, it saves a lot of sand paper, the panel file just need a wire wheel to occasionally clean the gummed up file back to near new. I also used a banana panel file to shape concave filler fills, knocking the top of the the highs and 'roughing' the shape before moving to the 80 grit. It was common to use 36 grit for the roughing, I never used it and used 80 grit, I never liked the deep cuts that were left from the 36 grit. HA - I HATE being a perfectionist - nobody notices the work that goes into the perfection but me. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.

[@jamescon55]

I used to work at a shop down in "The City" where we did ALOTTA blow n go "kustom" work/restoration jobs 😏...And I "got schooled on the air file" by an old timer AND? AFTER I FINALLY DID figure out HOW to let the sandpaper AND the air file WORK FOR ME...Chit WAS sooo MUCH easier to do with THAT situation. Air File the panels down with 80 grit, finish/finesse it out with 150 on the block and, prime TH outta it WITH high build 2k Urethane Primer and hand block then on out... Several cars ended up in World of Wheels and even 1 of em won 1st place in one of the Lowrider classes.... But yeah, different budgets and different styles of builds and...? Well, I hope ya get where I am coming from Lol 😆👍

[@jamescon55]

AND...? I used to work for a "Corvette Restoration AND Fiberglass body/paint shop" and the owner could be smoking a cigarette, talking to ya, and be runnin a 6 inch DA, and sand darn near ALMOST ANY kinda crazy curved/sculpted/ body lined panels and??? ) ANYWHERE that the 6 inch D.A. COULD basically GO and??? DONE!!!...within a couple few minutes, depending on the area. 😦🤯 I'd just tell him "I hate you, you know it?" LOL....🤘

[@rolandthurlow753]

These techniques work amazing . Just did 28 model A front and rear fenders painted black .gorgeous results .

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@Okie-Tom]

He is an excellent teacher. I am working on a 29 Model A coupe myself. Take care. Tom

[@towbar2]

This is excellent instruction!!! I went to CCCTI Auto Body School, and you have compressed six months of trade-school experience, tho a most valuable lesson!!! Thanks so much!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad it was helpful!

[@tuna22lm]

Yes it did I could definitely tell the difference after you changed your paper you could hear it cutting into the material as you were sanding.

[@byronstephen2044]

With out a doubt the very best tutorial on laying down and working on filler . " Working smarter , not harder" ! . I'm a now a big fan and binge watch your videos . Big Thanks from Canada !

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you so much

[@RichBarschdorf]

I like that you use a metal spreader. The guy I worked for was very cheap, so he always bought the plastic spreaders. Which is fine, but then I’d use a metal one and he’d chew me out. Very hard to work with someone like w.

[@dinadaughtry8993]

The way you are spreading the material reminds me of how I plaster a wall leading into an arch,we use a tool called a slicker ( a 3-4 foot piece of aluminum alloy) to get the majority of mud onto the wall and pull it flat then use hawk and trowel for cutting in door ways and pulling the mud around the arch and for any curve in the wall of course plaster goes on much thicker but the idea is the same, right tool for the job and making All transitions seamless

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Yeah I used to do drywall long long ago I can relate haha

[@dinadaughtry8993]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I was wondering, you where using a hawk to mix and Cary the body filler most people that have done stucco and drywall finishing are usually the only people who have them, nice work on the car by the way and thanks for the tips on working with body filler

[@waterlover]

That 61 trunk looks so velvety with that primer yellow/green you have on it. Almost fainted when you thru your mask on top of it.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 my bad

[@kohjiiida2637]

wish we had an instructor like you in the workplace. Most tradesmen are grumpy and high on drugs

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@SpeedandChromeTV]

Really enjoy your channel. Your comment about being a sculptor made me chuckle. When I went to body and paint school 30 years ago our instructors always said, “you are body men, not sculptors. Haha. I get what your saying man”. The products have some a long way. 2K primers didn’t exist. Everything was lacquer. Modern products make it some much better. Keep up the great work.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!! 🤣🤣

[@ODGColornChrome]

Great vid. I know that I suck at body work and it was taking me forever with layer after layer of filler. Now i know what I have been doing wrong, sanding down too far. Thanks and keep up the awesome work!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Good luck !

[@lonestarlows]

I recently tried evercoat plastic honey with rage ultra. And it helps tremendously in this 100 degree weather. Only use it for big areas.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

If you haven’t mixed the two together you gotta try it. Not even comparable to adding honey 👍🏻

[@sethstrohm5085]

Thks for ur vids. I’m not completely new to body work I’ve done jus enough to do smaller parts but watching ur vids an the knowledge u put into your vids make me pretty confident I could do my whole truck an then paint it myself. Thanks for the time and knowledge

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

That’s awesome!!!

[@billycousins1365]

Clean work and very well articulated.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!!

[@infinite7501]

Spot on again. I use the same fillers. I do like to tape my jambs before I lock the panels down. makes clean up a little easier for any little "dobs" of filler that fall down into them. I even put aperture tape in some of trunk jambs to keep the filler from locking itself under the lip where the weatherstrip attaches.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Great tips !

[@smithjohn3080]

"So you wont hate this as much" notice he didn't say "so you'll enjoy it" 😉 Most will never get to the efficiency of enjoying it, but it is possible 🤘😎

[@jimhalbert2290]

This guy is smart. He's teaching body filler theory

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Haha thank you

[@arturorodriguez1120]

I’m working on a54 chevy truck that’s almost ready for body work here in San Antonio to thank you for the awesome videos. Very helpful

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Right on thank you!

[@ivlark1]

Perfect, straight to the point.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@Brulserz]

Just one advice. When u apply the second thick coat to fill the obvious low areas, when its dry apply a third medium coat inbetween to connect everything. Ofcourse in different direction, cross pattern etc. Much better results.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

👍🏻

[@RobertBeck-pp2ru]

Thanks for the lessons and pro tips. I will be doing body work on a home-built body soon. Your 50 minute video will probably save me weeks of work. Added to favorites and subscribed.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad it was helpful!

[@hobbyautobodyfun9315]

They also have a long pot life . they don’t dry up . I had one sit for 3 months open it up and bam still good

[@dwaynelejeune3508]

Great vid. Going to my save box to revisit once I start on my 65C10. Keep up the great work!!!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!!

[@rockmanf8214]

Killer video’s on better ways to do body work . Everything you said about high’s and low’s I know exactly what you are talking about . Over the last two years I’ve done a 1962 nova and 1967 Camaro all the welding on panels, all the way to paint .both came out great!!! it was a lot of hard work😅 but life would have been a lot easier if I would have seen your videos first . Keep up the great work looking forward to seeing your next video 👍

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!

[@mavericklane6206]

When your sandpaper gets clogged, take a paint stirring stick, and whack the sandpaper a few times, and it will unclog it, and extend the life of the sandpaper.

[@henrypeterson1981]

Great Video, thank you. 100% on the money. Shop Temperature based on outside Temp, humidity/dew point. It’s not all the same everywhere. Use your head and research for yourself.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Well said!

[@SOLDOZER]

"Then go watch Bad Chad" SHOTS FIRED! HAHAHA!!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@stevemurphy402]

Great video! Your presentations are very concise, easy to follow, and lots of great information!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you !

[@MoparStephen]

Great informative video, you have a very nice teaching style. Simple and to the point, but clear explanations for why everything is done.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you very much!

[@jasonboudreaux5003]

A good tip is to put your Hardner on the side of your Filler So it doesn’t make a hard spot where It contacts The filler before you mix it

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thanks for the tip and for watching. 👍

[@RestoringChristine1956]

Truly appreciate the comprehensive tutorial! Plenty of filler-for-thought!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Haha thank you

[@Okie-Tom]

Excellent demonstration. Many people can learn the correct way from watching you. You are a great teacher. Thanks much. Tom

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thanks so much!

[@garythorsell5061]

A true craftsman of his trade

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!

[@Tryagain205]

Camera work is fantastic as well.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Mike is the best!

[@puppygadget3189]

Was lucky to be friends with painter Junior

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Not sure who that is but cool

[@numbrzr051]

Me mixing body filler turns into me socking the glob 🤣😅Enemies

[@danbowers8691]

Good points on many things especially your beginning comments on other people showing there work on how Not to do things there is no cheap way to do quality bodywork aka using things laying around your shop. Badchad

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Haha thank you!

[@kevinwells768]

Another grest vid. The attention to detail...in that yhe audio is really clear, is great. Your teaching delivery , clear calm and direct. Not a single erm ah or kinda in sight. Wondering if you were a military instructor or something in a previous job.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you. No I wasn’t just teaching as we learn ourselves 👍🏻

[@tools6106]

Awesome demo of techniques! I’ve learned why I always have waves!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Awesome glad to hear they helped you 👍🏻

[@FrankieTheTech]

I never like spot coating unless I really have to, always just reapplied my filler over the entire area. When I glaze I treat my glaze like primer and go outside my body work around 2-3 inches maybe a little more. The guide coat I love , I always have a can of gloss check as well as a final inspection then off to primer

[@FrankieTheTech]

Love the videos too

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

@@FrankieTheTech thank you!

[@dawinner777]

All these little globs of mud make a humpty surface. On portion is softer then the rest of it. I haven’t seen any bodyman use a cheese grader in 30 years. I use a 8” DA to knock done high spots and to remove sticky portion of the mud. It save time. It save blocking time and and paper and easier and eliminates humpty surfaces.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

@@dawinner777 you obviously did not watch the whole video. Everything we do has the exact same hardness it’s measured on a scale. It’s also a very tiny little bit of filler to get rid of any ripples anything you’re doing with the DA sander is not going to result in the same finish that we are performing here. This is for show cars not collision.

[@rickdeckard1075]

"im really impressed with white rage, really works for us" lol yep

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Mix it with rage ultra extra you will be even more amazed.

[@latinprince896]

Correct me if im wrong but i do believe its bad to put bondo on bare metal as it will cause delamination and rust between the bondo and metal causing the paint to flake off in the future. Not many know this but you're suppose to put epoxy sealer on bare metal then scuff it up and then put bondo on top of that. Also after applying bondo and it starts to cure enough for you to be able to touch it and its no longer sticky or "green", you can wipe it down with acetone removing that waxy layer and helps with your sand paper not clogging up as easily.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Yes this car has epoxy down. But if you burn through it’s a high spot which you will burn through again when you get it flush.

[@juniorclassicvwbugs924]

Nice video. Thank for the tips. I am not a body tech nor know how to apply filler, but I do there to from time to time apply filler in a small job as needed. These tips will make much easier. Thank you.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ronnieellsworth9223]

I came across your channel and I thought, now there is a man that knows quality. So you got another member. Being a hobbyist I enjoy doing body work. It's like you said about being a sculptor. Well in a way we are. But I also like you, use Rage. I use the Xtreme product in their line. It goes on smooth and sands powder fresh. I would like to try their Epoxy/Sealer Primer and their High Build Primer. Thanks for the info. Ronnie.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you we try our best!

[@mikepruett1745]

glad you are showing to knead the mix and not stirring it...

[@11Xshadowolf]

That cheese grater idea would have saved me so much sand paper lol...

[@bigrigg71]

Wow!!!!! I just did the pencil trick for the 1st time, today, &.....it works!!!! My only complaint is I wish I had known of this earlier....

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Haha great glad to hear it’s helping you!

[@jasonsailor9987]

@SYLVESTORSCUSTOMS Thanks for taking the time to make another very detailed video about how to mix and apply body filler. You mentioned Evercoat Rage Gold briefly but did not explain your thoughts about that version of Evercoat Rage. For those of us doing one off projects and only using body filler in patches rather than doing the whole vehicle, one can of body filler is enough. In this scenario is Rage Gold as good as the other Rage options or does it have some shortcomings?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

If you’re just doing a spot here and there, it’s just fine. We also like 3M platinum plus

[@DanTheManIOM]

class is in session ! and I need to be learning... thank you

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Any time!

[@tuna22lm]

I am a 71 year old student in your shop now. Lol.

[@averagemyke2843]

Old Body guy I worked with called himself Leonardo De'Bondo ... all about sculpting

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

That’s awesome it’s so true!

[@walterkucharski4790]

Thanks for this I'm starting an entire car soon. It's in epoxy now.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Good luck!

[@rightsidelanechoice7702]

I moved from Cali to Washington and when I tell people about the water based paint bodyshops have to use it blows their mind and ask how does it stay on the car. You should do a video on water based paint if you haven’t already.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

We have one doing a 63 Lincoln.

[@scotcorvette5821]

I learned a lot from this video. Travis I have a 67 Camaro convertible I'm restoring. Please consider doing a video on quarter to filler panel gap fill. Ive seen some people use just filler and some using lead. I prefer not to use lead but want the body work on the seam to last and look flaw less. Looking forward to your suggestions

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

We’re actually doing one on that soon. 👍🏻

[@keithroute8906]

You are really good with that filler and your tips on being fast and efficient.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you I appreciate that!

[@CalicoRiot]

New subscriber, I appreciated the easy to understand, straightforward format. This video just popped up in my feed, but it was definitely helpful and will come in handy on my 69 gto project. I always wondered why body filler dried so fast. My first experience with it was disappointing, but I wasn't weighing it. 🌴😎🤙

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Awesome thank you !

[@tommidd8042]

Good presentation 👍. I've always had good experience with Overcoat brand. I've done many motorcycle frames, tanks, etc and tend to initially use the Metal 2 Metal on bare thoroughly cleaned steel followed by the lighter filler.

[@vicshonebethel9934]

I love this channel. Your techniques is very excellent and professional. I learn everything and how to be better as a beginner. Thank you for sharing 👍👍👍💯💯

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you 👍🏻

[@immanutt4442]

I took notes and so much common sense involved if we just stop and think what we are doing plan out and think ... Travis again thanks a mint for you sir and your concise tutorial videos !!!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Absolutely thank you

[@robertthrem3382]

I think I have an idea for you you should get a color cold chart after it’s mixed so you know for different temperatures

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Evercoat actually has one already 👌🏻

[@demagchevy]

I will one up you, I use rage ultra myself, and I mix at the car not the workbench! When you mix the 2 fillers, mix them before you add the hardner. So for you I would say mix the 2 at the workbench, put back on scale, add your hardner, mix at the car, that will get you 1 more minute of play time, and we know how precious 1 minute is with mixed body filler, lol! And I love how Rage Ultra does not have a skim coat on top like other filler that gums up the 1st sheet of paper. Also the ultra sands like a dream! Sorry about the 5 edits, lol, but I just wanted to say I'm not a professional body guy, but I pretty much mirror almost all the stuff you do. So, I'm not that much of a hack.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Hahahahahahahahahahaha need a job?

[@demagchevy]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS lol, I'm not fast, bodywork is my least favorite thing to do! I love to fabricate and make stuff work, that's my go to. It is just very expensive to pay somebody to do a great job, lots of people can just do ok bodywork, but I try to do the best of my abilities, and I'm getting pretty good at it, just slow 🐌 AF. Building a car from the wheels up is a little intimidating, most people would stop at having to make a complete body from rolls of fiberglass, but, I'm to dumb to know when to stop!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

@@demagchevy that’s a good thing. I always say I’d rather have slow and meticulous than fast and sloppy. But you gotta hit it out of the park! We’re hiring if you know anyone close. Fabricator and body man.

[@joshvanhyfte6376]

Thanks for sharing your expertise! It helps us "wannabes" get better. In the end when the paint goes on the sun doesn't lie.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

So true!

[@ronmurphy9819]

Thank you. I am looking forward to the next one.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!

[@forte.vision]

So helpful. Thank you from the UK.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You are very welcome

[@paulmanhart4481]

What are you? 25 or something? Already a master. But still able to teach. There are three levels in mastering a subject. 1. Not knowing anything and not knowing what you need to learn. 2. Knowing everything and remembering what you needed to learn. 3. Master of the subject but no longer remembering what it took to get to that level. The best teachers are at #2.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

I wish I was 25 lol. 37 👌🏻

[@allenwilson6585]

how did you determine the areas that are low?

[@cameronstolhand7149]

thanks! That was extremely helpful and I never thought to measure the filler to hardener ratio with a scale.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad it was helpful!

[@wrightsrrt871]

Up here in redding ca it gets hot as well and it takes someone who has done filler in heat to work it here as well! We always reduce hardner when Temps are high as well!

[@gerardoacevedo5182]

Thank you, another great and informative video brother! Keep'em coming!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!