T-top top, non skid and progress on other goodies on the Center Console Project boat. #38

Installing the T-Top Top, applying non skid to the deck, installing the first of the engine controls, and building a foot rest for the Center Console Project Boat.

[@lesmansom7817]

We use PTFE pipe sealer on all stainless fasteners that go through Aluminium to prevent any galvanic action between the dissimilar metals, We also use it on stainless to stainless to prevent galling. Put the bow rail back on. Easy to hang fenders off and some thing for old fellas like me to hang onto😎👍

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Les Thanks for the comment. After reading all of the votes on the handrail I am 100% unsure on which way to go. But it has been interesting. And thanks for the tip! Barry

[@brownmilligan1936]

i throw my net over mine and it fine. also like it for my grand kids. love your videos. thanks for your time. l love working on boats like you.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Brown Thanks for the vote and the kind words. Boats are good therapy! Barry

[@henrycole8705]

My whole life a Carpenter and i would like to say sir, You are very talented no question

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Henry Kind comments always welcome! Barry

[@daviddailey4959]

I would use Ultra Tef-Gel on those screws. Amazon has it.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

David That is a product I an unfamiliar with, I will have to check it out. Barry

[@ChrisSchroth]

@@barrylukebuilds7894 Duralac is the trade name of an alternative product. I am sure there are plenty more, all the online marine retailers and metal working suppliers should be able to advise you, I reckon. Lovely t-top. Thank you for the videos.

[@FernandaFoertter]

I didn't grow up with a father or a grandpa and lived in the city. A young budding engineer me would have loved to have learned from someone like you. These videos are the closest thing I can get. So thanks for being a KZbin grand/parent-with-a-shop for many of us.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Fernanda Thank you for the kind words and knowing someone out there is appreciative makes it all worthwhile! But beware, there are folks out there who insist I have done everything wrong. I just do my best. Barry

[@chuckswanson7097]

At our age I've put railings on my boat to keep me inside and it has other advantages as well. Your videos are priceless as well as your craftsmanship skills.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Chuck You are the Man! Thanks for the kind words and thanks for the vote! Barry

[@vanrijn1669]

Live in the desert Southwest, but enjoy your videos/craftsmanship. Can’t vote for/against forward handrails since I usually don’t need much to trip over and neither would stop me from flying off the bow. A thought though on the fiberglass attachment. If you want to keep the screws, I’d think of a bead of white silicone under the glass at each support rail. I’d agree, however, that through drilling with cap nuts or Loctite on the longer stainless bolts would be my first choice. I lived on the East Coast into my 30’s and spent a lot of time on the Atlantic and have been aboard during squalls. I think the Bimini top might have some problems in short order if you stay with just the screws. Keep ‘er coming. Thanks for posting your beautiful work.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks Mick Fastened the top just yesterday. Polyurethane Caulk all around and on every fastener and 4 through bolts up front. I think I am good now. Barry

[@wesleywillard]

Thank you for taking the time to make these. Absolutely helpful.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Wesley You are the man! Compliments keep fuel in my tank. Barry

[@jaystell5919]

If I was to have my granddaughter in the boat, I would want the rail. Seems like kids are drawn to the front of a boat when it’s underway, and kids are clumsy. Look in to getting some Teflon coated bolts for the top. This eliminates any dissimilar metals touching, thus preventing galvanic corrosion. We have Fastenal stores in my part of Texas with all the plants, probably some by you as well with the plants you named off. And great work as always.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks Jay! I have spent many thousands of my former bosses dollars at the local Fastenal. I will check them out. Thanks for the vote and thanks for the kind words. Barry

[@TheAssaultScar]

Always enjoyed your videos...watched this whole project so far... Your ideas are badass I can't believe some of the stuff you do you got skills man love the vids

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Devin You are my favorite viewer of the day! Thanks for watching and thanks for the kind words. Barry

[@chugaaa]

Love the progress, summer in the water for sure. I like the hand rail idea specially for the fact that your grandsons are still toddlers. I was afraid some how to start seeing the end of this project because a loved it so much but I guess this is the cue for next one which I'm sure will love too.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Chugaa Thanks for the Vote! Don't worry, we are not finished yet. Barry

[@dongalloway6888]

Hey Barry...really enjoy your video's on your boat rebuild... Actually doing pretty much the same thing on a 1988 WellCraft 20ft CC... Including adding a full Aluminum Tops-n-Tower T-Top, and full Engine bracket with a 300hp Yamaha two stroke... And yes...I am learning from your mistakes...LOL...seriously...I'm learning a lot more positive things... With regards to the screws being used to mount your hard top...I agree with others, to lessen or stop Galvanic corrosion, I feel you should switch to aluminum screws... I'd use something along the lines of 3M 5200 to seal em...and as an added note I'd recommend using large Aluminum Fender washers at each mounting point... Remember...this hard top is going to want to act like a wing, or a parachute while being pulled down the road...and I'm not 100% sure the screws alone would be able to handle that amount of stress... The fender washers will distribute the load over a wider area, and lesson the chance of this happening... Good luck with your project, and keep posting your videos... Unfortunately my project is going to take a lot longer...Age (63)...health...100% Service Connected Disabled Vet, and a couple of Cancers...have slowed me and my project down, to a stand still...But As of now I haven't given up yet!!!!

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Don Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching. The up lift on the top is a serious concern. I will keep scratching my head to find a suitable solution. Your WellCraft is pretty patient but don't wait too long! Barry

[@shoresharp8349]

Hey Barry I vote no hand rail. I believe they take away from the beautiful work you've done.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Shorev Thanks for the vote and kind words! Barry

[@FloatsOne]

Hi Mr. Luke, I like the look without the railings but you will need something to grab in rough water so my suggestion is cut the railings down to a couple of inches from the top of the gunnels to be able to slip your hand around it a lot of new boats are using this low railing and the look great and is good for your safety. Project looking good, Frank

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Frank Thank you for the tip and the kind words. Cutting the rail has crossed my mind also. Barry

[@rsdna9698]

On your T-top I would drill those all the way through the aluminum and use longer bolts with nylock nuts on them. If you don't want the nuts then use anti-seize and lock washers if you ever want to get it off again without cutting them.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

We are on the same page mostly. I was planning on through bolting the front corners only and using a chemical separator on the remaining bolts Barry

[@bearsanzone5653]

So for stainless into aluminum threads the best product I've seen is called Lanocote. It can be bought online or at most boat supply shops near the coast. It keeps the aluminum from galling and allows the bolts to be removed in the future if necessary. If it were me I wouldn't use anything else, right tool for the job kind of thing.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Bear Thanks for the tip, I will check that stuff out. Barry

[@tonyking3742]

If it were me, I'd go with some thread locker, then a fender washer and lock washer. Always look forward to your next video!

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Tony Thanks for the comment, We are pretty much on the same page. Barry

[@joesloan1724]

I'd put small rubber washers on screws between t-top and frame. Lock tight 'em down. Nice job!

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Joe Thanks for the suggestion! Might do just that. Barry

[@PartTimeProfessional]

I vote handrail for practicality. If nothing else it’s a 15 foot cleat that runs half of the boat for tying fenders lines etc. for the T top fasteners stainless and aluminum is nature’s lock tight if you don’t want it to be disassembled then mark the box complete. If you think you might come back later and want to take it off then they make special graphite anti-seize specifically for that but I’ve used traditional cheap store brand anti-seize on aluminum boat towers with stainless hand tightened fasteners and never had an issues. Love the teak foot step!

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

WB Thanks and we are on the same page with the fasteners. Had to have a little teak in the boat! Barry

[@scottward8038]

The boat is looking good, Berry! I vote no hand rail. I have had both, and my current boat has no handrail, I like the open clean no bow rail look. Plus, you may want to add a salt water trolling motor one day! I installed one on my 20ft CC.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Scott Thanks for the vote and yes a future trolling motor is a big part of the decision. Barry

[@CJfishing2024]

Use blue loctite, it will hold the screws in place and will act as a barrier and help prevent electrolysis between the two dissimilar metals, it's what we use on our radar arch's and T tops.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks Fluke Man. We are on the same page with this issue. Thanks for watching Barry

[@jameshanson5401]

Build looks great.im looking to tackle so.ething like this on mine mostly the transom idea

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thank you James! Glad you enjoyed, Barry

[@richardwolske2015]

I’m with keeping the railings always nice when Docking hanging onto when unexpectedly hit by a bigger wave , also you might use a thin plastic sleeve to encase the stainless screws and go all the way through the aluminum pipe add a fiber washer with a stainless washer over it with a nylon stainless lock nut should last for a long time ? Love your video and skill set . ❤️👍🇺🇸

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Richard Thanks for your vote. Your bold suggestion would definitely solve the potential problem. Still weighing my options. Barry

[@kirkpowell6161]

Looking good Mr Barry! My opinion/vote for what its worth, I would say put the railing back on. I'm thinking of it more as a safety or convenience item, not that falling out of a boat would kill a guy but it would kill the phone in his pocket... :-) BUT I also like the "clean" look of it being off so I would say half dozen one and 6 of the other. Thanks for another great video!

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Kirk Thanks for clearing this up for me! You are a true friend. Barry

[@romariogoulbourne8797]

Hey, Barry pertaining to the 3 × 16 stainless steel screws in the aluminium frame. What will happen naturally over time is that those screws will cause the aluminium frame to corrode because the aluminium frame will be the more noble metal. This is a type of corrosion call Galvanic Corrosion. When you mix two different metal that are in electrical contact ( in other words directly in contact with each other) the more noble metal will start to corrode because more noble metal (stainless steel) will turn an cathode and the less noble metal (aluminium) will turn an anode hence the less noble metal (aluminium) will become a sacrificial anode and start to corrode protecting the more noble metal (stainless steel) which is the stainless screw. The more noble metal will not corrode which is the stainless steel screw in this case. So what will happen over time is that the screw will become slack and fall out over time due the screw hole becoming larger because of the corrosion of the aluminium frame. The best option here is to use aluminium screw which would be the same material as the aluminium frame to prevent this type of corrosion from happening; Or you can coat the stainless steel screw and the screw hole with epoxy to limit the contact between the two dissimilar metal to minimize the effect of this type of corrosion which is called Galvanic Corrosion. Please see the link below for further information www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/faq-what-is-galvanic-corrosion-and-how-can-it-be-avoided#:~:text=Galvanic%20corrosion%2C%20also%20known%20as,solution%20and%20are%20electrically%20connected. Regards; 5th Marine Engineer Romario Goulbourne

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks Romario and thank you for your service. My Son and my brother both served in the Marines. I am not crazy about using aluminum screws as this will be a high load area with lots of temperature swings and lots of vibrations. I am leaning towards the coating route. Barry

[@romariogoulbourne8797]

You are welcome sir.

[@scottward8038]

Another note, use a stainless anti-seize lubricant. Permatex makes a good one. That was recommended on my T-top when I installed, keeps it from seizing and galling. Works great. And as mentioned earlier, put through bolts with nylon lock nuts on the corners.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Scott Thanks for the comment! I think That is pretty much going to be the plan of action for now. Barry

[@dannymurphy1292]

Barry, No bow rail. I think it really dates the boat and its always in the way.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Danny Thanks for the vote! Tough decision. Barry

[@samcgill]

All of my boats have had hand rails at the front, but on all of them I wished they weren't there. I think I prefer a number of strategically placed grab rails rather than the large thing that goes around the entire front and gets in the way all the time. I don't believe that rail at the front is to stop someone falling overboard. If it is then you need to take a safety approach to it, rather than convenience.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Scott Thanks for the vote and comment. Still confused here! Barry

[@Picasofly]

I made the same mistake once. Masking tape and resin stick REALLY well. Epoxy resin and plastic packing tape wont stick to each other. You might want to test it with poly resin and see if it works.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks Pic! I have been a little more careful since then. Barry

[@arnteriksen5773]

I think you should mount the handrail on your boat. Its much more secure and it look nice with those handrails. Best regards from Sweden

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Arnt Thank you for the Vote! And thanks for watchin! Barry

[@bubbleobill267]

Have a look at what’s being manufactured these days regarding handrails. I’ve just taken one off my boat and it’s looking way better. As for as your T-top goes a little bit of Duralac on the machine screws and periodical tightening will solve that one. Nice work.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks for the tip BB! And thanks for the kudos. Barry

[@floridaflyfishing3457]

You can just snap off those ss bolts after you torque them use a Vice grip and shake it back and forth and it will snap flush. We do that with every swim platform we install at the marina.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

FFF Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching! Barry

[@medicmcauley6729]

Try latex caulk on the top screws, it will act like a thread lock and insulate the dissimilar metals, plus you can remove them later. I would vote for the railing, it looks good and hand holds are always good.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Medic I was thinking about some sort of liquid magical stuff. Thanks for your vote! Barry

[@ante8210]

Hi Barry. Unfortunately Stainless steel and aluminum are not working well together. Sf they are in direct contact aluminum will corrode in one point. Trust me I know that because I have seen this many times. I suggest some aluminum screws or strong aluminum rivets. For handrail depends what you want snd what you like. Your boat reminds me on Boston Whaler and they are made for fishing. If the boat will be used for fishing that railing will be on your way all the time. Also it will take space on your gunner. I vote no railing. And fenders you can always have a small clits to hang them . Amazing job and looking forward to see more 😊

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Ante Thanks for watching and the kind words. I am still undecided on the handrail. barry

[@henrycole8705]

If you want a really good look to rattle can spray paint, top it with deft clear poly.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Henry Thanks for the tip! Barry

[@jpetersson6165]

Handrail, if you are able to modify so there is an opening at the bow. Perhaps lift it in place and show pics/ video with and without.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Jonathan The handrail saga will continue! Thanks for the vote. Barry

[@djpar3492]

Are you about show or go? probably look better with no rail. If you plan on the grandkids going with you, you'll probably love the rail. I'd put it back on, looks like it's well built. great job!

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

D.J. Thanks for the vote and I agree with you on both counts. Barry

[@btye1]

I've heard of using Tef-Gel for dissimilar metals

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Brian We have always used never-seize on stainless at work. I will check on the Tef-Gel. Thanks Barry

[@rickyranger3672]

Hi, love the work you've been doing on the center console. Are you using a "metal" cutting diamond wheel or a "masonry" diamond wheel? I want to buy the correct one that you been using and having good results cutting fiberglass. Thanks in advance

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Ricky Thanks for the kind words! The little blade that I have not been able to kill is a metal cutting blade from Home Cheepo. Not sure of the brand. Barry

[@joseramos7476]

Coming along

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

JR Thank you! Barry

[@grumpysailor8132]

Keep the rails. You'll find it a lot easier to tie off fenders with it. If you're going to have kids in the boat, when the boat is moving they will be able to hold on and have more fun.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

GS Thanks for the vote and thanks for watching! Barry

[@mrbassfisher1996]

For the bolts use nylon washers and 4200

[@mrbassfisher1996]

Prevents galvanic corrosion with the aluminum

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

MBF Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching! Barry

[@winstonzeb2842]

I vote no handrail, it takes away from the custom boat look you've worked so hard for!

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Winston Thank you for your vote! Barry

[@clintonwhite5850]

Coat your screws with an enamel nil polish. Stay out of the head slots.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Clinton A new idea, I love these off the wall solutions. Especially when they work. Barry

[@clintonwhite5850]

@@barrylukebuilds7894 Glad to help. Love you videos. You do good work. I like that you think over-engineer rather than be sorry later. Good luck my friend.

[@johnchristy3004]

Did you serve on the Barry?

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

John Nope, just a gift from my Daughter. You? Barry

[@johnchristy3004]

@@barrylukebuilds7894 Yes I was in 1977

[@LadyDewBuild]

Keep the railings IMHO.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks for the vote old friend! Barry

[@boatlifeDK]

You defenently have to test-fit it with to see the resault... i would refit it.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Ole You are probably correct, hard to tell without putting in up there. Barry

[@johnclemente6615]

4200 3m on treads would work well

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

John Thanks for the tip. I have ben think pretty much the same thing. Barry

[@robinfulton9057]

I was cringing when you were ripping that piece of wood.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

After many decades I still have all ten. I guess being a little scared has kept me intact after all. Barry

[@ivaninzunza2140]

cut it to 3" tall, looks better and have something to hand on

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Ivan I have also thought about cutting the rail down a little. Thanks for the comment. Barry

[@MTNmyMAG]

No hand rail

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

C & S Thanks for your vote. Barry

[@jacobblanzy4598]

I vote no on the hand rail.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Thanks for the Vote Jacob. Still counting. Barry

[@Jason-zr6il]

No handrails please

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Jason Thanks for the vote! Barry

[@WillyK51]

Most boaters, family and friends, go barefoot in a boat. I prefer non slip shoes, Sharp edges, Hooks, Gafs, trashing fish don't do well with my toes

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

William At one time in the past I was a barefoot boater. But over the years boat parts have gotten harder and sharper ( couldn't be that by feet have gotten softer). So now i am a shoe guy. Barry

[@daviddailey4959]

My vote is no on the rail.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

David Thanks for the Vote! Barry

[@joesloan1724]

Please, no rail.

[@barrylukebuilds7894]

Joe Thanks For the Vote! Tough one. Barry