Taig Lathe - Drilling Center Holes to a Specific Depth

[@michailnenkov]

I absolutely love the format, the production quality, and the information provided. I was surprised and disappointed to see that you've only made 2 such videos so far!

[@joseantonioteixeira7974]

Hi, I watched the video and I really liked the depth adjustment, it's simple and works well, your posts are very good!

[@RobertSmith-bh5cv]

I'm thinking of getting one of these Taig lathes (actually, after watching this video, I'm pretty sure I'm getting one!) and some people I've mentioned it to have been critical of the idea, suggesting I buy something bigger. But I think they're missing the point. I don't care if I have to make multiple passes or do what you did here and progressively use bigger drill bits. It's a hobby not a job. I want to take my time and enjoy doing the work. Thanks for posting this.

[@madsighntist14]

Excellent Step by Step Explaining of this process! I especially liked your ~constant~ "reminder" to add in the thickness of the Scale (ruler) to the hole depth, whilst using the Carriage for a Stopping point. A couple modifications you might consider for the Tail Stock Lever is to add 8 -10 inches in length, using electrical Conduit pipe. This allows a finer control of Pressure while drilling, and the other modification would be Replace the cotter pin with a correct diameter Socket Head no need to add a nut, you just want to "remove" the wobble out of the pushing system of the lever. At least I found it felt smoother in operation. All in All a Very Well done Demonstration, thank you. philip, from the Great Pacific NorthWET.

[@desktoplathes]

MADsighNtist - awesome! Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I have an aftermarket tail stock handle from elation productions to try out - will make a video of it when I get around to it. Take care!

[@Dodi-nz3fd]

@@desktoplathes , Please address the dealer/distributor of this mini lathe, in *Indonesia* .

[@stevearehart313]

Get a set of gage blocks!

[@regus06]

Hello and thank you from France for your great and helpful vidéo.

[@AlainPilon]

Love your videos. great production quality, I just hope you release more content! I know next to nothing about metal turning (I turn wood) and this is a great introduction to the subject.

[@toothrobber8076]

Your video format is good the video is fluid with good sound.

[@desktoplathes]

thanks for the feedback!

[@CandidZulu]

Hole depth on blueprints often disregard the tip of the drill. The measurement indicated is for the cylindrical part only.

[@curtisnorman2190]

Hello! I really enjoy your style of teaching. I see though, that you only have three videos posted to KZbin and that you appear to have stopped uploading them. That is a shame. I would love to have seen an instructional video on machining some small, irregularly shaped piece on the lathe (Taig lathe) that could not be mounted in a three or four jaw chuck - thus requiring the use of a faceplate for mounting the part. To date I have not seen where anyone has done a video showing how to do this on a small machine like the Taig . I am considering purchasing a Taig lathe with the new 5C headstock when I have the available funds, so viewing these videos is giving me some idea of what can be done on these machines. Thanks for your time and effort in making this, and the other videos and I hope to see more of them in the future.

[@jrbc2013]

what a TIP! very nice!

[@bucstart]

I really enjoyed your video and thank you for taking the time to put it out. One suggestion, you may want to simply use a few setup blocks to get your 1/2 inch depth. They would save you the time of measuring with a digital caliper. For example: use a 1/4 inch block to get your zero face reference and then add a 1/2 inch block, along with the 1/4 inch block to set your final depth from the carriage to the tailstock. Just my 2 cents!!

[@Jay_Rule]

Good explanation and video

[@6lr6ak6]

After starting using the straight drill, 3/8s OK as long as cutting fluid used throughout.

[@TheWoodWorkingPilot]

Great videos. Love them

[@ErwinSerle]

How did you center the dril to the material ?

[@yonatanreiffman]

Hi, is this taig micro lathe capable of cutting hard steel straight out of the box?

[@Calqid]

Why the steps between 1/4 and 3/8? Once you have the web thickness (the chisel point) drilled, go full size?

[@desktoplathes]

Made a few format changes - let me know what you think!

[@vincentjoseph5726]

Good quality equality sincerity bench..i like one when I AM on my Diy projects craftsman style workshop products safely works smoothly

[@Antrepeas]

Very nice videos! Got a suggestion about the placement of the text description for the different steps. I think placing it in the upper left corner would be better since KZbin blocks some of it with the progress bar when pausing, when it's in the lower left..

[@desktoplathes]

Andreas Thorn thanks for the feedback! I am planning to do another short video on turning to a specific diameter soon. I’ll play around with relocating the text tips.

[@mfs5493]

Make a set of stub drills (add to the set each time you break a drill).

[@madsighntist14]

Nice Video! Question on obtaining your .500 inch depth. Using the cross slide is great, but why not save a step, and put the scale on the back side of it (adding its thickness) and then just adjust to your needed stop? I know you can rezero your caliper but it is One Less ITEM to remember! For my Decades of Finish woodwork, I learned the value of Minimizing steps. Also, I would not use a scale in that manner, rather, I would keep a DEDICATED Shim, of say .010" and keep my scale for just measuring. All in All, Thanks for the video!

[@desktoplathes]

Good idea... using the scale to offset both the bit and the caliper is more intuitive as well.. might be a little tricky moving and holding all those things at once but doable I am sure. Thanks for the idea!

[@dbeierl]

Suggest putting the notes on top, where they won't be obscured by the player controls when paused.

[@desktoplathes]

ahh, good call.. I will plan on raising them so they don't end up under the controls. Thanks!

[@ruthless4645]

How do you attach the Jacobs chuck to the tailstock on the Taig?. I'm looking at picking up a Taig very soon but I have no experience with them.

[@desktoplathes]

It threads onto the tailstock ram. If you remove it, you have a dead center (steel point) that can be used for turning between centers and has a 3/8-24 thread for installing accessories (button die holder, tailstock). Feel free to email me direct with any questions. [e-mail]. Take care!

[@johnbroadbent9034]

hi the cheapest way to fit a chuck to the tailstock is buy a cheap black and decker drill like I did it only cost me £6 and the threads are the same as the tailstock quill on the taig/peatol the drill type is the later type they are as common as muck

[@johnbroadbent9034]

also if you need a revolving center ebay £7--- 6mm it fits into the chuck

[@kennethgsaxrepair38]

Pure Awesomeness! : )

[@rogerpetrella5993]

When drilling you might want to use a peck drilling technique so as to not make long stringy chips which can be dangerous and are also harder to clean up.

[@desktoplathes]

Good point Roger... this was aluminum but steel might have made for some dangerous chips at those lengths.

[@gangleweed]

Bull shaiser…..if you start a drill hole with a centre drill the danger is that you can break the small pip off the end and that is a big job to remove...……..use a plain short stub drill ground to 60 degrees to start a drill hole.

[@Inventorsquare]

If that were serious, how else would we create holes for turning between centers? There is no purpose of using the 60 degree angle other than for holding a part between centers, and a regular drill, even if ground to any angle, cannot make an adequate center without that relief in the bottom provided by the "pip". The 60 degree angle is actually bad for a 118 degree drill, plus the web on a twist drill is much larger. A real spot drill at 82 or 90 degrees should be used if we are choosing.

[@gangleweed]

@@Inventorsquare You miss the point.........and you will learn the hard way.

[@Inventorsquare]

Ian Pearson Ian Pearson There is no lesson to be learned the “hard way” when you’re using the most widely adopted modern industry standards... A spot drill is better for this in every conceivable way, from a much better tool angle for typical 118 drills, to rigidity, smaller web, and the ability to chamfer with it and gain space in tool changer.

[@gangleweed]

@@Inventorsquare As I said, you will have to learn it the hard way......centre drills are for drilling centres in the end of shafts to allow between centre or tailstock centre support, NOT FOR STARTING DRILL HOLES........that they can be used as such is not an argument, but they are prone to having the pip on the end breaking off in a pre drill work piece......you will no doubt have fun trying to get the HSS piece of broken centre drill end out of a job if you do break one.

[@Inventorsquare]

Ian Pearson That was the first and only thing I said about turning between centers. That’s the only time I use a center drill, and it’s my mission to actively convince people out of spotting with one. My point is that going out of your way to grind a twist drill to 60 degrees for normal spot drilling is silly.