Tailstock die holder - No hands! Version #2

[@peterdevries7549]

Thank you for the plans mr Winky! I metricised the values and surely you made my days easier, tapping long brass nipples....on ends of 90 mm shafts.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You're welcome

[@stevewilliams2498]

The tang on a Morse taper is for ejection only. If the morse taper is slipping, something is wrong. How many tangs have you seen twisted off ?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Without a doubt when a taper fits well it holds much better. With that being said, smaller tapers are much more prone to turning when everything is right. On my Logan the number 2 tapers was reamed and in perfect condition and I still had problems with it turning. A number 3 has more surface area holds much better. Also, if the taper is for ejecting only as you say, why is it reduced area only on two sides? Why not leave it round. Three out of the four lathes at work had reduced sections in the tail stock. One was a Monarch, a South Bend and I can't remember what it was. If this is NOT to stop turning then what is it for? Also, if a taper turns once or twice, the games over, you no longer have a perfect fit. Why do centers NOT have a tang on the taper? Are they meant to be permanent? My Logan ejects all tapers... with and without a tang. Why is a tang needed for ejection? I'm not sure what you mean about a tang being twisted off. That would require some serious HP! I'm guessing a rather large bit would break before twisting a taper. Maybe not on my mild steel tapers but I suspect most are harder then mild steel.

[@stevewilliams2498]

@Winky's Workshop I have had 2 attempts to reply with lots of answers but I keep loosing connection before I have finished typing. Do you have an email address I can send to ?

[@stevewilliams2498]

@Winky's Workshop I quote from Wikipedia .. "The tang is not engineered to withstand twisting forces which are sufficient to cause the taper to slip, and will frequently break off in this situation. This will allow the tool to spin in the female taper, which is likely to damage it. Morse taper reamers are available to alleviate minor damage. Tapered shanks "stick" in a socket best when both the shank and the socket are clean. Shanks can be wiped clean, but sockets, being deep and inaccessible, are best cleaned with a specialized taper cleaning tool which is inserted, twisted, and removed." Steve

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@stevewilliams2498 [e-mail]. The flat tank was patented by Cleveland drill company to stop drill rotation in a taper. books.google.com/books/content?id=a_xKAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA478&img=1&zoom=3&hl=en&sig=ACfU3U0HL4if1S6YSZF2qO_tdkzUnuSI0g&w=1025

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@stevewilliams2498 www.beautifuliron.com/mttaper.htm

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Yep, I still like your approach to these, it would be very handy to make one

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Everett!

[@thecdnfixitfarmer]

I just had a thought this morning. Use a tapered slot and then a ball bearing or tapered seat and spring behind it in a perpendicular tube attached on the outer sleeve with an adjustable set screw or handle. You could adjust the torque that it would overrun if the tap or die bottomed out. If you inverted the direction of the sleeve and shaft you could adjust the over running torque on the go. That might be my next project if no one else bites on that one.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That would be a good idea although my belt seems to slip if things get too crazy.

[@jimfiles3307]

Very clever Mark.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@5tr41ghtGuy]

On the types of dies; it is my understanding that a split die is for cutting new threads where you make more than one pass, beginning with the most open position. A solid die is only for chasing existing threads. I have used a solid die to cut new threads myself, but notice that it dulls quickly.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I've heard the same and sometimes this may be true. However, this is not always true. I much prefer a solid die, I don't need to adjust them and I have had a couple of the split dies break. My next set will be solid.

[@robertwalker7457]

I was taught that the split die was used as you say but also to make the thread to fit neatly in a pre existing female thread that may be worn rather than make it too small and loose. Die nuts for chasing. I use both depending on circumstances.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@robertwalker7457 That sound like a good way to do it. Most often I lightly snug to set screw that would open the die and lock down the other two. It seems to work.

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Sweet. I wish I was any step closer on my Logan lathe. So much to look forward to once I get it cleaned up and put it together. Bull gear is the only problem part.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Those bull gears are kind of had to find. Good luck

[@Mpm-bu4gy]

Saludos fraterno desde Perú 🇵🇪Dios te bendiga mucho

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@jasonpeters3228]

Is there a video of yours that describes the blue hose with compressed air? For light cuts you use air to direct chips. What psi is it run at? And for heavier cuts air/oil mist?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Oh... on the mill? Well... that was a mister that I used a Koolmist coolant in. I really don't like breathing it so I just use air now. Plus I mostly use carbide now and carbide doesn't care about heat. basically the air keeps the clips clear and cools a little too. Without the air the cut is noticeably worse because the mill is re-cutting chips. This is worse in a slot.

[@t.d.mich.7064]

Nice addition to your lathe!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, I agree!

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Nice idea, well done and nicely presented. Checking my dies they have different diameters......

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you sir!

[@edsmachine93]

Very nice conclusion! Great job. Thank you,EM.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@de-bodgery]

Your indexer for the lathe...I use a rotary table locked into the spindle bore. I can dial in 1 degree increments if I want.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's great. Very accurate!

[@johnspathonis1078]

Hi Winky Another very nice job. I am always trying to boil down ideas into the simplest format. Have you tried making the die holder solid one piece with no slide but a parellel end -- say 12mm. Then grip it in the drill chuck in the tail stock. Do not lock the tailstock, push the tailstock in to start threading and once started just let it be pulled in by the thread. Reversing at end of threading just pushes the tailkstock backward. This is how I built mine and I have done this a number of times. Admittedly my lathe is a little larger than yours. Cheers John.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I thought about that after making this one although I like the fact that this one locks into the tail stock taper with the tang. Letting the tail stock slide is a good method but the drill chucks tend to slip.

[@johnspathonis1078]

@@WinkysWorkshop I take your point. My chuck is particularly strong. However I have not gone above M12 yet.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@johnspathonis1078 M12 takes a lot of torque if you thread at 100% threads!

[@johnspathonis1078]

@@WinkysWorkshop Hi Winky My lathe could be described as a light industrial. 200mm 3 jaw (250mm 4 jaw) with D1-6 camlocks and 1000mm bed. It is on a cast iron base and complete weighs in at approx 1500kg. It is a 3 ph 415volt. The tailstock is a 4MT - headstock 6MT. I have not run a small hobby lathe but this lathe is a bit of a beast and would run larger dies than 12mm.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@johnspathonis1078 I wasn't concerned about lathe power, I was concerned with the ability of a drill chuck to hold a die or die holder.

[@badoldbiker368]

Very nice job.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you!

[@jubiletabustamanteserrano2446]

QUE TRABAJO MAS FINO AMIGO LIKE

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@dennisotterstetter6800]

Could not get plan link to work??

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That is very strange. I just tried the link and it worked for me. Are you on a phone? If so try a computer. I will say that it took about 8 seconds for the link to open so maybe there is some issues. Email me at [e-mail] if you can't get it to work and I'll send them.

[@TomokosEnterprize]

Seems I missed the others, I will correct that for sure. It really dose throw a nice thread my friend.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

So far it has works well - Thanks

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Great video winky, keep'um coming..

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@jeromebishsr.1394]

?,What If You Drill the Holes First And Then Not The in side

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I dont understand.. sorry

[@robertwalker7457]

Nice thinking.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@trollforge]

Interesting Solution! This one is for the Logan?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes it would work very well in the Logan although i sold that lathe. I miss it too.

[@stefankrimbacher7917]

Perfect ! Wanna make one.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thats great, be sire and watch the previous video if you have not already.

[@Tom-ic7hw]

I like it im gonna build one

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool'

[@gordonburns8731]

I have no idea about American thread cutting dies, but in the UK, the die holder has three set screws: 1 The die splitter, to increase the thread diameter. 2 The two die adjusters, each of which are 45 degrees either side of the splitter, to enable a decrease in the final thread diameter, leading to a looser thread engagement. There are no examples of anything different. Maybe we (in the UK) take things a little more seriously. It's much the same with threading taps: UK Taper tap USA Starter tap UK Second tap USA Plug tap UK Plug tap USA Bottoming tap We, in the UK, invented the threading system, ergo we are correct with our nomenlature, and everyone else is wrong. QED

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I agree... ha. The split dies here are 3 screw but at a right angle (90) apart.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I prefer solid dies!!!

[@andyZ3500s]

I like it!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Ha... Thanks Andy!

[@andyZ3500s]

@@WinkysWorkshop During this video I was thinking about you driving those engineers crazy when you were still working. I could hear them -- look at that thing. What's wrong with it? It's to simple. I know but he made it in hardly any time with scrap material it works perfect and he didn't have to stop production. Yes but one should go through proper channels. You are absolutely right.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@andyZ3500s Haha... funny. I sometimes get the same reaction from old machinists too.

[@dannywilsher4165]

Sweet idea!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@lisag2771]

I like it! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thats great!

[@kerrywil1]

Nice one

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks 🔥

[@kimber1958]

Thanks wink

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Your welcome!

[@papasfixitshop7982]

Very Cool!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@CuongNguyen-fw6ld]

❤❤❤❤

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@donsengine3158]

I had to grin.. you been following my channel Winky? I did a torque bar vid a few weeks back. Like it though. Don.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

HA... Wow... Good video. To be honest I never saw your video or the die follower you had (they stole my idea, ha). I do like my die holder a little better simply because it's not held captive. I now have 8 die holder and the dies stay in the holder. It does look like a stole your idea but I never saw the video. Your video is good... better than mine especially considering I lost the audio! I'll never use the second die holder, the tang in my taper stops the rotation of both my drill chuck and first die holder. Thanks for showing me the video! I just linked to your video in the description. I like it!

[@donsengine3158]

@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, you made a much nicer die holder than the one I have. Mine just came with a bucket of stuff from the flea market. I usually single point, so don't use it much anyway. Been following you since the beginning. You might say your videos, I like em! Don

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@donsengine3158 Thanks Don!

[@kerrywil1]

Nice one

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for watching