Tamiya TT02B Neo Scorcher Hop-Ups & Mods

[@154Jamesp]

Great video. I love how your mods don't try to re-engineer to whole car but just tidy up some weak points in the design. Kudos.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks very much, James! It's great that you get my thinking - you said it exactly! Appreciated, buddy 👍

[@ckylee]

thank you so much for this video mate. I finished building my neo scorcher a few days ago, first run today over an icy carpark and loved it. First car ive built in 20 years, loved every second. You explain everything so clearly in this, im going to get all these upgrades eventually, ill be using this video a lot :)

[@MarkBryanRC]

LibertineLee - thank you so much for your positive comments - it makes making these videos worth while! There is a brilliant Tamiya community on KZbin - we all love sharing our ideas and experiences - glad you could join in the fun! Hope you have good times with your new Neo Scorcher - it's a fantastic car =)

[@tonystamp2708]

This was just the video I was looking for. Thanks for all the tips and recomendations. Just getting into this hobby so this has been very helpful.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi Tony and thanks for the kind words. I'm really glad to hear that my videos have been of some help - music to my ears! Enjoy the hobby, my friend! 😎👍

[@petergoodwin2465]

Nice work mate, will be watching this a few times . I have 2 to build now. Wife was jealous and ordered a Plasma edge 2 . She's gone crazy and ordered every upgrade they have . Should be a nice buggy but probably didn't need all that.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks, Paul - yeah, the TT02B is an awesome buggy, I think it only needs a few mods to make it even better, but a faster motor always adds up to a more exciting drive! Hope your wife loves it like I do! Cheers, mate. :)

[@scottthompson2481]

Great channel , just found you , keep up the great content ...................

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks very much, Scott! I appreciate the comment, I'll do my best pal :))

[@puschmannn]

Hi there, nice video! I was proud owner of the Terra Scorcher SOME years ago and I loved it. It came fully adjustable, had front and rear stabilizers and it had all ball bearings included, which was awesome at that time. But you know - though having a superdooper car, regularily buying the Tamiya catalogue, one always peeked at the Egress or Avante which were unaffordable haha I think it's a shame that they sell low budget versions these days and you have to buy ball bearings and tuning parts right from the start. Well we know - business, business 😉 However - after driving some time it was clear it needed more juice and so a LeMans Motor and 8,4V battery pack followed shortly after and it had no problems competing with the Top Cars made by Schumacher. Those were cool times. Leafing through the Catalogue, eating the heart out about the Tamiya Tamtechs, tanks, trucks or even the 1/12 Toyota and Porsche 959 with their delicate chassis. From time to time I enjoy reactivating my XRay M18 Pro and driving a bit around. In spite of being a small car it leaves the neighbor kids stunned due to it's speed. Now coming dangerously close to 50 I still enjoy the old Tamiya Videos on KZbin! Greetings from Austria, have a good time!

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi there and thank you for the interesting comments! I can relate to your RC experiences, I think most Tamiya fans feel the same! Oh yes the "unobtainable" Avante and Egress - I still have not yet got either of them! Yes the entry level kits are very basic but you can still have a lot of fun with them without upgrading. But yes, they are much better if you do hop them up, it's way too tempting, isn't it?!?!?! That M18 sounds awesome, I bet the kids love watching it! And don't worry about being close to 50, I passed 60 over a year ago and I'm still RC crazy! All the best and greetings to you in Austria from here in the UK! 😎👊👍

[@GW-vz2zk]

Really appreciate this video. I'm brand new to RC cars and just ordered my first build (Neo Scorcher) but struggling to find what's worth upgrading and what's just wasting money. Also it's great that you explain what most of the parts do as for a newbie it's a sea of terms I do t understand just yet

[@MarkBryanRC]

It's extremely nice of you to leave such good feedback, thank you very much! Glad to hear it. Ah, yes, it's so easy to waste time and money with some of the so-called upgrades available. I hope you are enjoying the hobby, I'm sure you will pick up the terms very quickly. Best regards from Mark...

[@unmoderatedahole]

This is an outstanding video. I want to do DIY mods like this on my channel. I want to encourage people to do exactly what you are doing: take a look at the hop ups but also get creative and make your own modifications.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Many thanks for your kind words, True Buggy! I do enjoy finding nice and easy solutions for hop-ups and mods to my Tamiyas - the genuine Tamiya hop-up parts can be very expensive, especially when you fit 3 or 4 to one RC. And sometimes, just a little tweak here and there can make all the difference to performance. I'm really pleased that you enjoyed the video. All the best mate - Mark... :-)

[@NordicRC]

Great looking TY-02Bs and great video as always! Good upgrades. Good overview of the buggy. Thumbs up! I heard about the problems with the shock towers. Too bad they didn’t fix that. So you go toe in? You got a nice way of explaining the camber but the toe in/out discussion is quite confusing (not yours, but the general discussion). Some recommend toe in, some toe out ... and all seem very certain about their choice :-)

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks again Nordic RC Visions! Another video that I wasn't happy with - Alf wasn't available and so lacked his charm and I had nobody to banter with! Agree totally with the toe-in/out debate! I have quite a good knowledge about mechanics (I get this from my Father who is quite an expert - he's built several real-life road cars from scratch and explained everything to me in detail when I was young) so basically I use info from real-life cars and transfer them to the model world - scale is different but the principals are the same. Because the majority of road and racing cars employ toe-in and negative camber, that's the way I set up my cars - not saying I'm right, but that's the logic I follow! as you say - I find the debate very interesting too :-)

[@NordicRC]

Mark Bryan RC I have no technical knowledge or experience about cars. I think the majority I have talked to recommend negative camber and then a rear toe-in and a front toe-out. I think I might have to do some research, try things out for myself and then maybe change my general set-up to a front toe-in :-) Thanks for sharing your view. It has sparked an interest for knowledge in me :-)

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks for sharing this debate with me Nordic RC Visions! - When I started on KZbin a few months ago I never thought it would lead to such interesting discussions from such dedicated and knowledgeable people! So thank you again my friend - it is a pleasure! I too will look into the toe-in/out debate again - and if anyone else is reading this discussion - Nordic RC Visions and I welcome your comments!

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

This has always been a provocative Debate! I try to stay out of it, because some people are just too stuck on incorrect information that they've been fed most of their lives... (And I CERTAINLY don't mean you two, who've I've had plenty of discussion with one of you!) 😉 I'll just give you my view, from the standpoint of a Retired Auto Technician of 37 years, and also professional Race Driver/Builder on this hot topic.... On 2 wheel drive - you always want a degree of toe-in. As you roll forward, inertia pulls the Wheels back, trying to induce a toe-out condition. Toe-out makes Steering twitchy, and hard to run a straight line. * Now, some closed-course Tracks with many tight curves, Drivers will opt for a slight degree of *toe-out*. Doing this, causes the steering to react very quickly. It also wears Tires FAST! This works in Racing, because Suspensions are MUCH tighter than a road Car. All Metal Bushings instead of Rubber, nearly zero play in any part of the Suspension. On 4 Wheel Drive *or Front Wheel Drive,* it's a little more confusing. Nearly ANY time you have a front driven and steering Axle - you need varying degrees of *Toe-out!* Why, because the front Wheels being POWERED, tries to pull them forward - INTO a *toe-in* position. IF already toed in, it will force MORE toe-in, causing excessive scrub steer, Understeer and Tire wear! NOW, to really get proper toe-out adjustment on a front driven Axle - with full-sized Vehicles anyway - is to fix the Vehicle on to an Alignment Rack, SECURELY tied down, and the Toe is adjusted - WITH THE CAR IN GEAR, UNDER SLIGHT POWER - to near Zero, to 1/4 degree toe-in. When at rest, the Vehicle will have a small bit of toe-out, but in this case, it's correct! *In the RC World,* it's obviously not as critical. However, too much toe-in WILL cause more undesirable Understeer. On Tarmac, that will cause faster Tire wear. I have a RC Toe Gauge, plastic, that I got from Tower Hobbies for about 11 Bucks (abt. 8 quid!). On my 4X4's, I try to adjust my Toe to about 1/32" to 1/6" toe-out. With all the SLOP in most RC 4X4's (Especially Tamiya and Vaterra), that brings me to a slight amount of toe-in under Power. To be MORE CONFUSING!!! 😱😵 IF Toe is TOO far out (ESPECIALLY on Brushless Power!!), you'll get a condition known as *Toe Sway.* What happens is, you're running down a straightaway.... feels OK. Then, you get to a curve. You let off the Throttle, and it toes back out.... THEN you hit the Power out of the curve. It rapidly shifts from toe-out to toe-IN. This often results in near complete loss of control!! So........ I'm recommending a *small* degree of toe-out. Just be cautious about going too far! Carmine 🚂

[@unmoderatedahole]

I like the toe in. It makes the buggies stable for the kind of backyard track driving I do. But if you take my buggies out to bash, you would notice that they can't turn very sharply at all. It's all a compromise. I don't mind making a quick toe adjustment for different conditions.

[@CmwSpeedrunUk]

Cracking video well explained 👌🏽

[@MarkBryanRC]

Cheers, Chris! This is a great 4WD buggy, one of Tamiya's best! Thanks for the comment my friend, very much appreciated! :)

[@CmwSpeedrunUk]

Really enjoy learning off your videos , just built first lunchbox , now looking to build a buggy your videos help

[@MarkBryanRC]

Man that Lunchbox will be a lot of fun! What buggy are you thinking of? Nice to know the videos come in useful! All the best mate! :)

[@CmwSpeedrunUk]

Mark Bryan RC hopefully fingers crossed , I like all the buggy’s and I’m still unsure as I’m new and they all look great , your ones look cool , keep the videos coming tho 👌🏽

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Of course I'm watching this for ideas!! 💡 Do you think 80mm Shocks will work up front? Plan A was always MORE ground clearance for me. I'll have to build mine with the PLASTIC Propshaft initially! I'm really looking forward to this!

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi Carm! Glad you are checking my vids out and hope you got something useful here! 80mm should be OK if you set them up like I know you will with plenty of droop! TBF the plastic prop is perfectly fine in this solid chassis. I hope you have a great time building this beaty!

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

@@MarkBryanRC I'm starting to.... I got the Diffs done (100,000 in front, 50,000 in rear), fitted the driveline to the Chassis.... Then I got COVID! An unusual combination, because I didn't get the Delta vaccine, I contracted a stronger strain! All of a sudden. I'm in ICU. My fever hit a high of 105.7!!! 🤒 I should be DEAD. I'm in a tub of ice 🧊. My temp is now 102.9. Because of previous lung damage, I can barely breathe, and am on Oxygen, under pressure. (A step below a full Respirator) Not doing good, me Mukka....

[@MarkBryanRC]

OMG!!! SO SORRY!!! Thoughts and prayers are with you my friend!

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

@@MarkBryanRC Out of Critical!! Not Out of the woods yet... but looks like Saturday! 😊 Thank you, dear Friend! 🍻👊🍻🍻🇬🇧🇺🇲

[@rcalltypes8230]

I think that ESC can handle a 10.5 brushless motor, if you want more top end speed than the 13.5 can offer. Also the speed tuned gear set (spur gear set)

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks for the comment, Rcalltypes! Yeah - I believe you are right, the TBLE-02s is rated at 60A and is designed to run the TBLM sensored motors, which go down to 10.5 turns, although it would probably need the fan fitting for off-road running. I looked at the high speed spur gear set, but it's quite expensive and only has 2 teeth less! Good call, if anyone wants to go even faster with this ESC - there is a way! All the best, Mark :-)

[@rcalltypes8230]

I just purchase the speed tuned gear set, I really just wanted the alloy cuppler that it comes with lol it was a good move the instructions shows that there is an optional 64t spur gear for the alloy cuppler if you want & has a gear chart for all 3 spur gears 70t, 68t & 64t. Cheers

[@MarkBryanRC]

Nice one Rcalltypes! Something else I have learned today - love it! So - there is a 64 tooth spur available? Now that WILL make a noticeable difference! Thanks for sharing mate - keep the info coming :-)

[@thealibi2939]

Hi. Enjoyed looking at the upgrades. I have a couple on mine. Interested in the pinion upgrade as I changed the motor and haven't seen a different cell in top speed. Also you didn't mention tyres, any advice on going slightly bigger than stock? What works well. Thanks

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi. Thanks for the comment. Yeah, it depends on the RPM of the new motor as to whether you need to change the pinion. My motor didn't spin much faster than the stock one, and I only saw a real increase in speed after fitting the 20T pinion. The tyres I have fitted in the video are slightly bigger than stock by about 8mm in diameter, and give an extra bit of speed. However, they do not grip nearly as well as the stock square spike Tamiyas, so it's a bit of a trade-off.

[@thealibi2939]

@@MarkBryanRC thanks for the prompt reply. Really enjoyed your video... it's a great hobby 👍

[@MarkBryanRC]

You are very welcome - I agree this is a great hobby! :-)

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Another fantastic Video!! That Aluminium Brace you made for the front Shock Tower, looks like a great idea, that I'd like to try! I'm actually thinking of converting my broken TT-02 into a TT-02B.... I'm wondering if it would just be a matter of different Control Arms and Shock Towers..... What would you reckon?? I'm about to look at your DT-02 videos next. 😉 Carmine 🚂

[@MarkBryanRC]

Many thanks for the compliments Carmine! Yeah, the front brace works really well, an added bonus is that moving the shock tops back behind the plate lines up the shocks besster with the suspension components better - the whole front end seems to operate more smoothly. As for converting an 02 to an 02B - it might add up to quite a cost unless you can find a job lot of used spares - as you will need the longer driveshafts and steering rods. If you buy new, the driveshafts come in a pack with the output shafts and wheel axles if I remember. It is definately worth adding all the prices up and seeing if it makes sense - a working RC is better than a broken one any day! As for the shock towers, in my opinion go straight for an alloy or carbon hop-up, the standard tower is way too flexible. Thanks for watching mate :-)

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Yes Mark, I would consider upgrading the Shock Towers a necessity! AND I might do that Aluminium Brace idea with it. We've got VERY hard obstacles down here. The cost of conversion.... I've thought about that. 😱 Maybe I could start with a broken -02B!?? Hmmmm....

[@MarkBryanRC]

Yeah mate, I think a TT-02B for spares or repair would be a great place to start - good look hunting :-)

[@schuttrostig5729]

i think you are much better of in buying a new TT-02B kit and use the old parts for engineering or replacements. that front brace / extension looks great !

[@garygallant5390]

Tamiya should stay competitive by improving on what you have replaced. Bushings still? I always wondered why to this day Tamiya won’t include ball bearings. I love Tamiya but they need to change a little bit.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Well, I for one, am with you on this! Bearings and oil shocks should be standard in all kits, period! All the best 👍

[@altaga66]

Very good updates brother.👌 To put the brushless motor did you have to change the drive or esc? 👍🤙👍

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks Bro! No, I didn't change anything else on the TT02, only had to reconfigure the TBLE02 ESC to run in "brushless" mode. Oh, but I did increase the pinion gear to 20 tooth to give a bit more top speed, and the motor pulls it well. The car runs great! :-)

[@altaga66]

Thaks for info friend 😉

[@MarkBryanRC]

You are very welcome my friend! :)

[@robbrennanrc]

Nice video dude: what thickness of aluminium plate did you use for the front shock mount?

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thaks mate - the plate is only 1mm thick - a bit too thin as it has bent easily - I think I'll make a new bracket using 2mm plate - might make a video of how to do it as it's a really good mod!

[@davidwittmann6555]

@@MarkBryanRC do you thin a 1.5 mm carbon fibre plate will work?

[@davidwittmann6555]

@@MarkBryanRC What Motor did you use and did it fit right in?

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi David! Yeah - if you can cut it easily, a carbon fibre plate would work well - just remember that CF can be very brittle - best to seal the edges with CA glue when you get the correct shape.

[@MarkBryanRC]

The motor is a HobbyKing Trackstar 13.5 turn sensored brushless. I love that motor (I have 4 of them in different cars now!) Only about £26 and very reliable, pretty fast in the TT-02 as well! Hope this helps, David! :)

[@rosiekeith]

Hi Mark, loving your videos and want to upgrade my neo scorcher. Can I please ask what wheels and tyres you have on your neo scorcher. Many thanks

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi there! Thanks for the comment and question. The wheels and tyres are unbranded, I got them from blacksmithproducts - www.bspspares.co.uk - but most of his stuff seems to be out of stock at the moment - you may also find him selling on eBay, search for 1/10 rc off road tyres. TBH, they don't give as much grip on loose surfaces as the stock tyres, but are good on solid surfaces and hard packed dirt. They are slightly bigger than the stock tyres in diameter, so give a little speed increase too. Thanks for watching, I hope this helps - feel free to ask any more questions, I'll do my best! :))

[@rosiekeith]

That's great, ive found some. Thanks so much for your help.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Nice one! Hope they work well on you Neo! You are very welcome! :-)

[@UnRealRacer8]

I'm building this TT02B right now. I got some problem with tamiya hop up parts #53791 and #54477 as They didn't fit well on the rear wheel. The dog bone tend to fall apart from gearbox joint #54477. What should be done?

[@MarkBryanRC]

I have never used these parts - the universal drive shafts are normally used with the other type of output drive cups - the ones with splines on them that will not fit the standard TT02 differential. Have you tried using the standard plastic joints?

[@nickvledder]

1:10 Make sure to get the corect set of bearings: 5 x 11 x 4 (not the 5 x 10 x 4mm)!

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks Nick! 😎👍

[@ajcball]

I want to run off road - so v interested in all the talk of ride height! Whats the recommended upgrades to "max" ride height? How long a shock could you put on these? Its a pity these are so low when stock

[@MarkBryanRC]

Agreed, they do sit too low in stock form. I wouldn't go over 10mm longer than stock Shocks or you will risk damaging the dog-bones and drive cups. My front shocks are 5mm longer and when mounted in the inside A-arm holes give much improved clearance. If you stick with the stock shocks and just move all the bottom mounts inwards, you might find you have enough clearance without any other changes. Hope this was helpful. All the best from mark... :)

[@ajcball]

@@MarkBryanRC Thanks Mark - watched a ton of your videos lately! How long are the standard shocks? I had ruled out the TT02B due to ride height, but seems there is a mini industry in correcting it....

[@MarkBryanRC]

Cheers for watching my videos - much appreciated. I think the rear shocks are 100mm and the fronts are 70mm stock. Yeah, there are so many mods and hop-ups for the TT-02, it's hard to know where to start. :)

[@carmine2210]

Did you install the high speed gear kit? Its basically a 67 (I think) tooth spur gear and spacer. Or were you able to use the 21 tooth pinion with the stock 70 tooth spur?

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi carmine - no I didn't use the high speed gear (68 tooth) as I used a 21 tooth pinion gear and have had no problems with it - it's a cheaper way of changing the gear ratio. It probably would pull even higher gearing though so you could try both. I see in your video that you have bigger tyres (as does mine) and this also gives a healthy upgrade in speed.

[@AntsRC]

I can’t find those track star shocks at hobby king??

[@MarkBryanRC]

Sorry - I just searched the site for you and they only seem to offer 48mm shocks, I don't know if they are discontinued or out of stock, the website doesn't say! Best regards, Mark

[@AntsRC]

Mark Bryan RC thanks

[@MarkBryanRC]

No worries my friend! :)

[@stankyjim]

Hi, I also own the TT-02B with the same esc and have just purchased the same motor as you. I was wondering how you fitted the 21 tooth pinion as it clearly states in the manual you can only run the 19 at a highest?

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi - I think I made a mistake, it's a 20T pinion I fitted. There are holes in the motor mount for 20T pinion. It's the same mount (part D9) for the TT-02 (not the "B" version) road version, if you reverse the mount you will see different numbers and holes, I think you can go up to 25T!!! (I think - if not you can get the D9 part from the TT02 kit and fit that. Ignore what the manual says, I think it is referring to 19T max with the stock motor. My TT02D came with a 22T pinion as stock. This chassis can handle it!

[@stankyjim]

@@MarkBryanRC ok thanks!

[@stankyjim]

@@MarkBryanRC thanks, just checked mine and it does fit. What brand pinion did yo get?

[@MarkBryanRC]

I bought a set of 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20T pinions cheap on ebay, no brand names on them but seem to be holding up well! :)

[@Flahh_h08]

Hi mark, i want to ask do you run them on a lipo or a ni-mh

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi - we have run these almost exclusively on NiMh - but recently I got a LiPo and I tried it in the Neo Scorcher - to be honest, I couldn't tell much difference! :)

[@Flahh_h08]

thanks for the info mark ,can i ask what volt nimh battery that you run

[@MarkBryanRC]

I use the standard 6 cell 7.2v NiMh batteries. :)

[@Flahh_h08]

Glad to now mark Cher's

[@ajp_3391]

Awesome video man, I am wondering how much do you think the total cost of this will be?

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks for the great comment man! At the moment, the TT kit and upgrades comes in at about £150. The stock XV was £209. Rob intends to try and stop the upgrades at the same cost as the XV, so another £60 to spend on the TT and we will see how it performs against the XV again! Ultimately though, both cars will end up with brushless setups - but that is for another day and another video! Thanks for watching, and have a great Christmas :-)

[@ajp_3391]

Cheers! I have been looking for affordable parts for my car for a while, and this video really helped. Thanks!

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hey mate! I really must apologise! I have so many comments on the latest video that I got my reply mixed up - you must think I am crazy! To answer you properly, and correct my silly mistake - here are the approximate costs for the TT-02B upgrades: Turnigy Trackstar shocks: £12 per pair (ball ends needed separately) Turnigy Trackstar 13.5 turn brushless motor: £25 Alloy propshaft and alloy drive sockets: £13 Turnbuckle set (adjustable top wishbones and steering arms): £16 20 tooth pinion gear: £4 Carbon rear shock tower: £17 Hope this helps, if you need any more info or I have left anything out - feel free to ask. Best Regards, Mark

[@ajp_3391]

Thanks so much mate! Just one more question: where should I shop for the best prices?

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi again! No worries my friend! I always use eBay, and have a few preferred suppliers. If you are in the UK, a good place to start is with Tony's Tamiya Parts - very fast service and very reliable - he's a good guy. Also, check out timetunnelmodels.co.uk - also very cheap and always a great guy to deal with.

[@gazr4967]

This or DF02 Rising Storm?? Looking to buy new or used DF02. Let me know you thoughts. Thanks.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Well Gaz, my mate has a DF02, great car but the chassis is prone to breaking, it's a little fragile. In terms of durability, the TT02 is awesome, I've run mine really hard for 5 years and it is still in one piece, and in a race, the two are pretty even. All the best! :)

[@gazr4967]

@@MarkBryanRC On that basis I'm going to treat myself to Neo S. Oh, channel great. Fellow Brummie???

[@MarkBryanRC]

Yes mate, born in St Chads, Birmingham, many moons ago! Lived in Brum, Smethwick and Oldbury most of my life and worked in Brum City Centre for many years, BT and a small computer company. You will love the Neo (Time Tunnel models just had a new batch in for just over £100 a throw) - just raise the suspension a little and a mild brushless, endless fun my friend! :)

[@catcancrunch7260]

Hi mate what I have noticed is the servo mounts don’t seem man enough especially when dual rate is up ! The servo in mine moves when rate is up ? So I am sniffing for aluminium replacement if you have any suggestions most welcome thanks mate 👍🙏

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi Cat - yeah, the mounts do move a bit, especially as there isn't much steering lock available. You do need to turn the dual rate down a bit, with it up your servo is probably trying to force the steering to move more than is available, that's when the servo will move. Try taking the body off and checking the movement when the steering hits full lock. You can get alloy mounts, but they won't cure this problem and could cause breakages if the steering is the limiting factor! I hope this makes sense!

[@Noz4j57]

what wheel do u have i want to get some new ones for mine

[@MarkBryanRC]

These are unbranded generic wheels and tyres, made in China. Can't remember which online shop I got the from, it was from Ebay. If you search Ebay for 2.2" buggy wheels, I'm sure you will see them come up. All the best from Mark...

[@Randy1124pr]

Are you running stock diffs? I been thinking on putting the metal input shaft and diff ring on mine

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi Randolph - yes, the diffs in this TT02B are stock. I have heard that you can fit the DF02 metal diffs with a little modification, and I think Yeah racing also make some metal parts, but they are not cheap! I have had no issues with my diffs, and a new set of standard parts is very cheap. I believe the metal ring and bevel gear would be a nice upgrade though. All the best from Mark... :)

[@Randy1124pr]

Mark Bryan RC i have a brushless system on mine but it is sensorless, i have no issues if i ease into the throttle but as as soon as I hit full throttle the diffs sound like they are falling apart. Most likely I will put the metal ring and bevel gear and see if that does the trick.

[@MarkBryanRC]

Oh dear! Sounds like your motor is more powerful than mine. Yes, if the diffs are making a horrible noise on full power it will be very wise to look at some metal parts upgrade - I wish you luck with the modification! :)

[@jayc5768]

Awesome video! Very informative Question did you use the factory spur gear with the upgraded 21t pinion gear? Thanks

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks for the compliment Night Hawk! And thanks for dropping by. I think I was unsure in the video if it was a 20 or 21 tooth pinion (I fitted it quite a while ago!) but I checked and it's a 20 tooth. However I kept the standard pinion gear - the Tamiya high speed spur gear hop-up is only 2 teeth more than standard and in my opinion won't make that much difference - a much bigger gear ratio change can be made by upping the pinion instead (and it's much cheaper too!). Going from the standard 17 to a 20 makes a significant difference in top speed as long as your motor can pull it. I've run my 20 tooth for ages now with no negative effects at all. Hope this helps mate - feel free to ask any other questions and I'll do my best to answer. Happy RCing =)

[@schuttrostig5729]

@@MarkBryanRC speed gear has 2 tooth less, not more. But since its smaller you can get a bigger pinion, and since its modular you can mount a smaller onee, tamiya sells 63 tooth ones as well, listed as "tb-05" . but they fit. putting 63 tooth spur and 27 tooth pinion makes it a lot faster, but is often to much for a high rev motor. Since with the adapter it is screw-on you can use gears from other manufacturers as well, but you need to modify the gear cover to fit pinions bigger than 30 i think, not sure where the limit was.

[@MarkBryanRC]

@@schuttrostig5729 Sorry, Schutt, my mistake! Yes, I know the HS gear is 68T!!! Didn't know you could get a 63T gear though - thanks for the info! You know a lot about the TT-02 - thank you so much for sharing with us - that's the great thing about this hobby, we can all learn from each other! I really appreciate you taking the time to comment. :-)

[@Tony-cheesy]

Hi I have just bought a Neo Scorcher with a 10.5t tamiya brushless motor, will I have to change the bevel gears or anything else? sorry I am new to this.

[@MarkBryanRC]

No worries, Tony! Well, you can't really get upgraded bevel gears for this RC - although DF02/3 gears can be made to fit with a bit of modification. My TT02B is OK with stock gears and the 13.5T brushless, just go easy on the brakes! :O)

[@Tony-cheesy]

@@MarkBryanRC Ive seen that gpm racing does a set of bevel gears...may give them ago

[@MarkBryanRC]

@@Tony-cheesy I have not seen those GPM parts, was just going on what Tamiya has in the form of options - yeah, might be worth trying! :)

[@mrmusato]

how long are the trackstar front shocks?

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi mrmusato - the Turnigy Trackstar front shocks that I fitted are 68mm long from the centre of ball-end to ball-end. The standard shocks are 70mm long. If you order some you need to order the ball-ends separately as they are not included with the shocks. I hope this helps.

[@jameswalker4428]

I have been experimenting with thesame motor as you and I have found the best set up is that motor, stock esc and a 4300ma 8.4v 7-cell Nimh hump pack with a 24 tooth pinion. If you contact me on Facebook or something I can send photos 🤷‍♂️

[@MarkBryanRC]

Thanks very much for the info, Jammy Dodger! I bet the 8.4 volts perks it up a bit! I don't use FB often, but I'll have a look when I do! :)

[@jameswalker4428]

@@MarkBryanRC yeah the things rapid 😂

[@andreasbrandstetter9221]

Toe in on a 4x4? The power on the wheels push the wheels together at the front, thats why you make toe out on 4x4s.Toe in only on 4x2s....

[@MarkBryanRC]

Well, you could be right about that. But it's really a matter of preference, I have tried both toe-in and toe-out, and I much prefer the handling with toe-in, even on this 4WD buggy! All the best from Mark... :)

[@dreja123]

Hello, could you describe the difference between the Trackstar 13.5 and the Blue 17.5 motor, which you installed in another video ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/p16VcnRmfciVnbc ) ? How does the car behave with each of the motor ? Thanks Andrej

[@MarkBryanRC]

Hi Andrej, The Trackstar 13.5 has a higher KV (i.e. Revolutions per volt) than the blue 17.5 turn motor. This means that for the same battery, the 13.5 will rev at a higher speed and therefore produce a higher top speed. I would guess that the TT02 with the 13.5 gets to 25 mph, and the 17.5 to about 20 mph. Both motors work fine with the TBLE ESC, no overheating problems. The only other difference is that the batteries last a little longer with the 17.5 turn, because it uses less power, but the difference is small. Using a brushless motor will significantly increase your run times! The biggest speed increase is using the 13.5 turn motor - acceleration is similar with both motors. I hope this is helpful - feel free to ask any other questions and I will try to help :-) Regards, Mark

[@dreja123]

Hi Mark, thanks for the fast response :)

[@MarkBryanRC]

You are very welcome, Andrej! :-)