Tankless - What to know before you buy

[@Dawt_Calm]

I have three electric tankless units located next to each point of use. One under the kitchen sink for sink/dishwasher/washing machine, one in each bathroom for the sink/shower. Not everyone can install smaller units like that, I planned for it during a remodel. When you install one large unit for the whole house there are two issues. By installing smaller units you have several advantages. 1. Smaller units are usually electric. Electric tankless don't need to be vented. Venting cost money to install and maintain, not only that but every molecule of air which is vented out of the house negatively pressurizes the house. Which increases HVAC costs. Electricity cost more than gas, but doesn't require venting, which offsets that difference somewhat. 1a. Smaller units can be installed close the point of use, inside cabinets, under counters, in nearby closets. 1b. Because the unit is installed close to the point of use there is instant hot water. In larger whole house systems, whether gas or electric, tank or tankless, when you turn on the water you have to wait for the cold water to cycle through before you get hot. Smaller systems are installed at the point of use, so the hot water is nearly instant. 2. By having the unit so close to the point of use there is very little energy waste. In many hot water systems, both gas and electric, the water has to be piped 20-50 feet on average. Those pipes need to be installed, insulated and maintained. The longest run from heater to tap is around 8 feet in my house. That's only because I have a shower head in the ceiling, not the wall. 3. Smaller units don't require significant rewiring of the breaker box. They can be connected with a 220V outlet (Some are even 110, but that won't run a shower) 4. If you have multiple smaller units, if one unit fails the entire house doesn't lose hot water. So for instance I have two bathrooms. If one unit has a maintenance issue it is shut down, while the other is still operable. We can get by with hot water in one bathroom until a service can be scheduled. No more costly emergency service calls.

[@Painfulwhale360]

What small units do you recommend?

[@tiffanylocus251]

Good idea

[@kaylenedowdle1310]

Don’t forget the life span of an electric tankless😂😂. And your house electrical amperage needed

[@Painfulwhale360]

@@kaylenedowdle1310 what’s the average lifespan of a tankless? I wouldn’t imagine it’s worse than traditional tank heaters.

[@2Hearts3]

Hello, Dawt Calm-- Thank you very much-- this is the best, most concise and helpful information I've seen about tankless. I just bought an old house, vacant for two years. The hot water stinks (due to bacteria growth while idle, i understand), so am planning to go to tankless. Thank you very much. This is what I've been thinking to do-- three small electric units, and your comments confirm the practicality of this. Thanks ✅ Also, from my reading, it sounds like Europe and Asia use tankless water heaters far more than the ol' vat we're used to here in America. I like the idea of getting this 40-gallon hazard out of the house.🙂👍

[@shade115]

When I was in Japan, the house we lived in had a tankless unit made by Rinnai. About half the size of the smallest one in your video. It worked beautifully! There was a remote control box installed in the kitchen. It allowed you to turn the unit on and off and control the temperature from inside the house. The water was brought to temperature almost immediately. For me tankless is an easy choice.

[@rioborzeli147]

Just got the largest Navion dual , domistic and water heating boiler installed. Such great technology in the new heaters. To be free of Oil AND 24 /7 240 electric hot wayer , im very happy

[@estudioperalez]

Matt - Your videos have always saved me hours of product research online. I now send your video links directly to my clients. They also love your videos. Thank you and please keep them coming!

[@rogercamargo2683]

Hey Matt, I have owned/installed 3 Bosch tankless and 2 Rheem hybrids, in houses I have owned, with much satisfaction. However!!! Last winter (sometime in April we had a severe freeze. During that freeze, due to a power outage, my most recent RTGH95xlp developed a leak. I called warranty and PG&E. Both told me that I was out $1200 bucks. The small leak is in the area of the top intake tube going into the stainless pre-warmer compartment. I took the heater guts apart from the enclosure (enough to slide the guts toward the top to expose that plastic elbow, p2). I couldn't determine where the leak is (no split or broken on fittings or copper tube). They tell me at Rheem that there are no repair parts available. The woman I spoke with was very cold and unconcerned about my plight. So, I do not recommend Rheem.

[@kansascityonline]

My ole water heater is going out after 22yrs.. I am considering installing tankless and watched this video to gain more knowledge. Thanks for the high quality video and simple to understand overview!..

[@springtimeplumbing6240]

In a retrofit situation, I often still install the condensing models. I use a condensate neutralizer to correct the acidity of the condensate water, a condensate pump, and the old pressure relief piping to get it to the outside.

[@charlesjenkins1225]

Your point on size and regional temperature is spot on. I have a tankless. I live in NY and I totally notice the temp difference between a hot summer day and a very cold winter night.

[@rogercalavaro1193]

Qui a Roma e difficile trovare Questo apparecchio perché?

[@007vsMagua]

Hi Matt. I'm loving your videos. I watched one yesterday and subscribed. I've worked in the building industry all of my adult life. I'm 65 now and want to build a small masonry/framing solar home for myself and your videos have a lot of valuable information that I hope to learn much more from. Thank You

[@marygilroy46]

Thanks for posting this! It's so hard to find unbiased info on water heaters where I live!

[@Dexter55999]

I upgraded from old tank water heater to an ao Smith 96% efficiency model. Installed it myself. Was a bit of a pain but no regrets. I did it primarily for efficiency but the endless hot water is nice too. I would recommend the condensating model even if you have to drill a hole in the side of your house for the intake/exhaust.

[@malinoisnation9392]

How much did u save on ur monthly?

[@Dexter55999]

@@malinoisnation9392 40-50

[@andreilesiuk9538]

Is it trouble free? Can I ask what tankless brand you have? Thanks

[@waterssolar5025]

@@andreilesiuk9538 he said A.O.Smith brand

[@BOHICA_]

@Matt Risinger I think you should mention the duct on the middle unit has high heat in the middle, but it's a two way vent, meaning the intake is surrounding the exhaust. There won't be heat to worry about on the vent pipe. Also, another factor on going with the condensing units is they are rated Energy Star and can give you a tax credit on your income taxes, up to $600.

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

I just installed a Rheem gas tankless condensing unit - because our old Bosch W.H. failed without notice so we bought what was readily available - we needed hot water. Installing the unit itself was quite simple but our model was very heavy to lift into place. My vents are not final yet - AND - we have not had any condensate produced from the unit's condensate drain :-)

[@jpe1]

Matt, thanks for another informative video. I really appreciate you clarifying the issue of how long for payback on the energy savings of tankless, explaining that the biggest selling point is the unlimited hot water, not saving energy. Ever since I upgraded from a 20 to a 40 gallon water heater I’ve never run out of hot water, so I’m glad to know that there is little reason for me to change to tankless.

[@marredcheese]

Tankless also pays you back over the long term in a couple other ways: 1) supposedly, they typically last longer than tanks (~20 years instead of ~10 years), 2) it's much easier to replace one lightweight tankless heater with another than to deal with two 150+ pound tanks, one of which is actually much heavier since it's partially full of water and sludge.

[@rothery2]

For the acidity issues it depends on the plants around whether they will die or not. Pines and Firs like acidic soil it helps so they don't have to share nutrients and Hydrangeas change color depending on whether the soil is basic or acidic.

[@bmwmike3534]

Hey Matt... I'm not sure for up north, but here in South Florida, and as an electrical contractor, for an electric tankless water heater, I have had amazing results with EcoSmart tankless water heaters. The brand you showed today I have had nothing but complaints here especially with not heating water that well. I personally havr an ecosmart eco27 in my home and I will NEVER go back. Ecosmarts are also a LOT smaller and slimmer than most others and most of the time less expensive! But I know everyone's got their own preferences :)

[@InvokeThought22]

Right around 5:30, I’m in New York and temps have been colder than normal past couple of weeks. My unit is inside however still getting colder water. I’m sure you already know this but it helped a bunch being able to move the burner temp up a couple degrees to satisfy my needs of hot water. Currently 24*f and I maintain 112 @ the heater and adjust accordingly. Great video, very informative!

[@raffly4449]

I have a 20+ year old Seisco electric on demand hot water heater. It still works perfectly and support has been great. The only downside is this year my electric utility instituted peak demand charges onto residential electric customers bills! So the 28KW peak draw costs me a few extra dollars every month. On the plus side I have never run out of hot water in over 20 years and can take as long a shower as I want or fill my 48 x 72 inch tub any time.

[@BlackhawkPilot]

I have used a Takagi for 13 years without an issue. Next to the furnace so venting was not an issue. The natural gas input line had to be resized so it could supply both the furnace and the hot water heater. Pumps between the hot and cold water at the end points give almost instant hot water. Gas line and pumps were the major expense not the hot water heater with installation. Also put one in my mother’s house for both hotwater and radiant heat. It works very well doing both functions.

[@dishserv2]

Great information. Make sure that the condensate water drains into PVC and not cast iron. The acidity of the condensate will erode the cast iron.

[@ShannonLooper]

Hi Matt, could you include a total cost of ownership comparison in these videos? A true cost comparison for me is starting from an existing tank heater and would include every expense from acquisition cost, replacement cost (plumbing charge to remove old unit and install new), operating costs over lifetime, and maint costs over lifetime. Thanks! great videos

[@wjthehomebuilder]

Congrats Matt! You made it over 100K subscribers (like over night?) I swear the count was at 99K just yesterday. Great way to ring in the new year! We love our endless water (Noritz unit, 94 % efficient.) Great comments. Another bonus for the 90+ models in new construction is being able to plan ahead on the gas line needing to be sized to be able to supply the 199K BTU. The only thing I don't like on ours (because I have not installed a circ pump) is the sandwich effect. When turned on, the hot water is warm (from previous water in the line), then goes cold (from the water that has slipped by the heater) then finally gets hot from the unit producing hot water. At least I can plan on that at the beginning of a shower, and not run out of hot water before I'm done!! The more of your videos I see, the more I appreciate the building science approach! Thanks again! - Wally

[@gregmaunder6902]

If you want to add an extra return plumbing line from your fixture (back to to the water heater or at least to the last split before the heater) you can install an on-demand recirculation pump (at the water heater or the fixture). Then what you do is open the hot water tap for a split second then close it, then wait 10 seconds for the recirc pump to push the cold water sandwich past the fixture then when you open the tap you get full constant hot water. I don't recommend installing a recirc pump without a return line (unless you like warm water out of your cold tap all the time).

[@bradneilly]

Production quality and depth of information continues to get even better! You're doing a really nice job with this channel.

[@LEX-rh8jr]

Great video for "newbie" in tankless water heaters. Very clear explanation, in simple, plain English. Thanks! 👍 👍 👍

[@valeriekennedy6495]

Hi, I live in Michigan and I'm always buying a water heater I'm thinking about going tankless because of my flooding problem. I want thank you for your unbiased opinion

[@br6480]

My tank’s lifespan is just about up and it’s in the attic( don’t ask why a builder thought this was a good idea.). This video has really helped on which unit to use.

[@TomBVoxman]

Thanks for this, Matt. Have you heard about LG washing machines not being compatible with tankless because the LG washers pulse water, and the tankless needs a steady flow of water demand to fire up the burner.

[@jerzeedivr]

I have a Noritz Unit and in Philadelphia/New Jersey area winter water is 38* F in Feb. Thats what you have to know before installing a Tankless Unit.

[@jmarianu3976]

I use two electric tankless running in parallel (180 Amps total) with a 120gal tank on a circ pump. The tank provides a buffer for peak usage (six bathrooms plus three dw & two washers) yet still allows me to have continuous hot water to meet typical usage. The alternative would have been to add a third tankless.

[@kaylenedowdle1310]

Wow hate to have ur electric bill

[@kaylenedowdle1310]

You should look into solar ,

[@TheStile2]

You should include the fact that if installing a non-condensating tankless model, but have a vertical (through the roof) exhaust vent then it will create condensate. In fact, if the exhaust must raise more than 2 feet above the unit it will create condensate. I didn't know this and am now having to buy extra parts to install my unit.

[@gracilism]

Any thoughts on the latest generation of tankless electric models? My builder was impressed with the latest one he installed. I've spec'd a heat pump unit as I wanted the cool air produced (hot AZ garages couldn't be more perfect for HP water heaters). Tankless electric (if actually functional) would be nice for all electric, net zero/ off the grid homes.

[@vanessavobando5033]

Matt happy new year! I love all your videos! I gutted/remolded my 870 sq ft condo in Florida & ALL your videos helped. I made my handyman look at your pocket door videos before he installed mine. Also your sooo HANDSOME!

[@dlmzg]

Most important point missed- some instant systems today come as a combi unit- where you can run hot water to heat your house and domestic HW. That’s when the real savings kick in. Get rid of your big old boiler and one tiny machine can do it all!!! Savings are big, currently lots of utilities and cities offer nice rebates or other form of incentives.... do your research on your local incentives..... I have units that run up to 250k BTUs to do heat and HW.... work great!!! Keeps monthly bills down!!

[@The4Crawler]

Good summary Matt. I found going w/ a condensing model for my retrofit was the best option. It was right above a laundry drain, so no issues with condensate. The additional cost of the condensing unit was offset by the savings on installing the more expensive concentric, stainless venting needed by the non-condensing unit. And it was easy to run the new PVC exhaust vent up in place of the old tank heater venting. A couple of 22.5* elbows allowed for the needed offset to line up with the roof penetration. Unit has been running great for 3 years now and is using about 1 therm of gas/mo. compare to 6+ for the old tank heater. Payback time should be under 10 years in gas savings.

[@gregmaunder6902]

Which brand/model did you go with?

[@The4Crawler]

I installed a Takagi T-H3M-DV-N heater. You can search for a video entitled "Checking out the new Takagi Tankless Water Heater" to see more about it. I think it was the best heater for my situation and it's been working great.

[@The4Crawler]

It was around US$700 last spring, price varies quite a bit so pays to shop around. All in all about $200 more than a new 40 gal. 12 yr. tank.

[@TheMinnow101]

$190 less at Supplyhouse.com than what Amazon has it listed for.

[@The4Crawler]

Yes, that's why I mentioned shopping around. I used that seller, they also had all the service valves and assorted bits for the conversion from a tank type heater.

[@terrymoline8260]

I like the sealed combustion idea that way your not chucking air you paid to heat or cool outside. I would love for someone to figure out how much that costs to operate a non sealed system. Great video

[@ryanroberts1104]

Interesting. My house has a Rinnai tankless heater installed. According to the label on the front it is 85% efficient, splitting the difference with the ones you showed. It also has a PVC vent and no condensate to deal with.

[@crunch9876]

Ryan Roberts the ones he showed are actually around 83 percent efficient for the non condensing.

[@ryanroberts1104]

@@crunch9876 He repeatedly refers to them as 80% and 90% respectively.

[@crunch9876]

Ryan Roberts yea he was rounding. He can not be expected to memorize all the stats for all water heater models. Exact numbers are I believe.82 for the left model .84 for the middle one And .93 for the one on the right

[@crunch9876]

There are also non recirculating that can reach .93. With that said the brand you got is consider slightly better than Rheem.

[@Legendary_UA]

Best investment we ever made. Replaced 2x50 gal electric with one Ranai natural gas. Saving about $45/ month on electric.

[@dangda-ww7de]

I wouldnt say that yet, wait and give it a few years and u wish you will get a tank again. How long did you put in that tankless? I bet you only put it in about 2years or so?

[@brianx04]

Thanks! My chimney is rusted through. Thinking about getting the one that can use pvc out the side of the house.

[@wbriggs111]

I have saved $25 dollars a month on gas, so in 5 years I have paid for the tankless vs. tank, Plus they last 2x longer .It take a little time for water and you have to by pass the hot water anti scald off you shower valves, but I would take them off anyway.

[@1041992]

Tank Water Heater is very conveniently , I truly recommend !!!

[@robjanson7282]

Matt, I have a new build starting in a week or so and have been contemplating using a high efficiency tankless unit. My issue is with the home being on a 1000 gallon propane tank. I don’t want the tankless to eat up the limited resource of propane....We are looking at two bedrooms, three baths, and stacked washer and dryers in each of the bedroom walk-in closets. My wife and I will be the only two living in the house. I’d like to hear your thoughts on this...Thanks for all of your videos!!

[@LS2FD]

@Rob Janson, what did you end up doing? We are about to break ground on a new home and the builder has plans to put in a tankless propane water heater on a 100-gallon propane tank. Nervous about having to refill it frequently, especially with four kids. Any thoughts or experiences so far would be appreciated!

[@Zachnj14]

May be new Tech but there are some condensing models I have found that have build in PH Neutralizers for the condensate so you can just let it drip outside or into a sink P-Trap

[@mikefromvernon]

The other thing too consider is that at full flame condensing will lose some of that efficiency. There are many technical reasons but let me try to put it in simple terms. Think of driving a car and your running at red line to get maximum power which means maximum gas flowing to the injectors. Generally to heat water that fast one is running at the red line. The main efficiency one gets with an on demand heater is that only runs when the tap is open which is why I like mine.

[@gauravmathur9292]

Great explaination. my tank WH is close to replacement so this helps.

[@davebeard4987]

Dude you are in my mind....... last few videos have been on subject that I am working thru as we speak.... Keep up the great work!!!

[@elr2141979]

You have a well speaking voice for KZbin I'm also converting my oil tank at oil burner system to a Natural Gas tankless system

[@thegee-tahguy4877]

I live in RI and have a possible carbon monoxide venting issue with our 3 yr old Kenmore gas hot water heater. I thought a tankless heater didn't need to be vented, and your video just totally bummed me out big time. Now I gotta call in the hvac guy to replumb the vent tube, which is a tough and costly job in my old house.

[@louisemedford8455]

Matt, Love your videos. Can you also make a video comparing electric tankless heaters?

[@mhcox55]

Yes, also need advice on electric tankless, in my case, point-of-use (POU). In my case we get plenty of hot water from the current 50 gallon tank hot water heater (just two of us in the house). Unfortunately, we have a long run to the kitchen on the other side of the house through a cold, concrete foundation in Albuquerque (in the South, but at cold, high altitude). Would like to put a 15-18kw under the sink, since we have about a 60F required temperature rise and solar panels providing almost all our yearly electricity needs. Will have to put 220v line in over the roof.

[@mhcox55]

... Also, what do you think of the economics of using point-of-use electric tankless water heaters at the bathrooms (2+), the kitchen, and the laundry room of a new house build, especially if you have solar panels offsetting your electric costs?

[@lyfhalvorsen3598]

Because its a video on Gas Water Heaters.

[@HPLovecats]

@@lyfhalvorsen3598 there are none on electric, hence the question

[@buelowexcavating]

I have two tankless electric hot water heaters that I am going to install.

[@brent1041]

I'm a big believer in as few of holes in your roof as possible. So the condensing with pvc looks even better as its easy to vent out the wall instead of the roof.

[@markgrunenwald2670]

Good videos. Very clear. Couple points to toss out there, for what it's worth. Not sure if they were discussed: 1) Another possible benefit of going non-condensing if installing in a basement is the unit would be consuming some basement air for combustion. Although it is air you paid to condition, that additional bit of air movement and consumption on a daily basis may help reduce the humid basement effect, and prevent or mitigate possible basement mold issues. 2) PVC venting works and is easy. But on long-ish runs especially with condensing HWH's and boilers where condensing element runs back down the exh vent pipe, there is research out there that indicates chlorides can leach out of PVC and cause pitting to common stainless heat exchangers over time. It does not occur with Polypropylene or stainless venting. Like I say, depending on the installation it may be worthy of consideration. Thanks for your straight-forward information...

[@DrPoopee79]

I've heard of issues with reverse air flow in freezing temps. When the non-condensing units are not running, cold air enters possibly freezing the exchanger due to other appliances creating a vacuum on the building envelope.

[@roBLINDhood]

I really like the Takagi T-H3M units because they use a 1/2” gas line which makes them much easier for an in place swap out.

[@InterCity134]

The problem not addressed in the tankless is some utilities you will need to get a larger gas meter at the house that incurs an addition monthly meter cost.

[@MW-gh1mo]

I work in the salon industry, we have over 300 tankless units in operation. We have 3 different brands. So given my extensive experience with them, I would choose a tank, every time. We actually only use them because they are a lot less expensive than a commercial tank unit. Unfortunately in the residential setting, the tankless unit is a lot more expensive. Go with the ever reliable tank, avoid the more expensive tankless in your home.

[@TheJakeRobinson]

You didn't really explain why to not use in residential - why wouldn't you use tankless at hone?

[@paulboegel8009]

They are twice as expensive.

[@CoconutPalmPictures]

Matt, I had hoped that you would mention whether those gas water heaters use electricity. I know that sounds contradictory, but many gas tankless water heaters still need 120v ac, to ignite the gas. For those of us who want to be able to have hot water when the power goes out (like after a hurricane), that doesn't satisfy our needs.

[@cledesma135]

Just bought a 8.4 gallon rheem outdoor. Cant wait!!

[@kompshi]

wonderful explanation and good insights into whcih type of model to go for when doing a retrofit vs brand new building.........thanks for the video

[@curtisjuelz2327]

You all prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can offer me

[@bentleyrowen79]

@Curtis Juelz Instablaster =)

[@curtisjuelz2327]

@Bentley Rowen Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.

[@curtisjuelz2327]

@Bentley Rowen it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thanks so much, you saved my ass!

[@bentleyrowen79]

@Curtis Juelz no problem =)

[@tims7196]

Thanks Matt for a great, and easy to understand, breakdown of these units. I'm currently prepping to install the one in the middle.

[@usmcpatriot7546]

Such a good video, I don’t know how someone could give it a thumbs down

[@lrc87290]

I understand there are tankless that now have a 2 gallon tank build in. I believe this lessens wait time for hot water. Maybe in another video. But I think they should have been mentioned.

[@Ramdodge582]

Higher efficiency units get you more energy credits as a builder this can save you bucks elsewhere in the build trying to find credits.

[@garywheeler7039]

We have found this true in California.

[@Ramdodge582]

I live in the other Cali, Washington State and the energy credit laws are stupid.

[@pepper13111]

Best gas heaters are condensing as well. Mine pumps out water constantly, it’s 98%. Just have have pump serviced yearly.

[@andreilesiuk9538]

Do you mean gas tankless water heater? Which brand do you have? Thanks

[@origtex]

Texas freeze 2021, many of the external tankless units cratered. Luckily Rheem's facebook was covering NASCAR. Moral of the story, have some kind of heating device installed if temps drop.

[@larryrx7sports253]

Outstanding presentation, review, comparison, information for on-demand as water heaters. Question: My current 50 gallon water heater, natural gas (40,000 BTU input) - will my current gas line be sufficient to supply/provide enough gas to achieve adequate hot water? Thanks.

[@metro484444]

We've got a cold stretch here in Boston. You here of any units freezing from the intake? May happen if not used much... I have a hybrid unit so it's always warm. You didn't discuss the hybrid. AO Smith. I have an Eternal

[@FredyArg]

Hello, great video...can you do one on electrical ones?

[@bigneilh]

How does a condensing version compare in pricing? I don' think I heard that? Would like to have heard about the mechanics of how a condensing works vs a non-condensing. On cold days in SWFL like now water flow really degrades! Lastly whats code say about distance to venting for a window that can open? Thanks!

[@bcolex]

I wasn't going to comment but feel like I need to help a few folks make this important decision. If you will notice the Energy Star sticker on the first tank, it says the annual cost is $551. My gas water heater has a sticker like that that says $167....I believe it is always more efficient to heat water or air with gas than electric. The Energy Star program ratings are based on average utility costs but they are based on the same averages, so they are generally relevant for comparison.Another aspect not mentioned and most people don't think about it is the fact that tankless do NOT provide instant hot water. In addition to waiting for the water in the line from the heater to the point of use going down the drain, you also have to wait until the tankless heater can adequately heat up the water in the small coil inside to begin to give you any hot water.I work for the largest LEED Certified home builder in the country. Our homes are very efficient and have an average HERS score of 65. Pretty low with no credits for a solar system...what do we do? We install typically a .93EF rated electric water heater and use a manifold system to get hot water to the point of use as efficiently as possible. If you want instant hot water? Add a recirculating system at the furthest point of use that has a timer to turn it on a few minutes before you want to use it, and turn it off when you go to work or go to sleep.Don't want to keep a tank of water heated all day or all night? Put it on a timer too, and have it turn on 15 minutes before you get up, or get home from work.In case you haven't noticed, water is becoming more scarce all the time and is getting more costly. Most of my clients have much higher water bills than their electric bills and all of that water is just going down the drain. What a waste....This may not be for everyone, but the "system" I just described works well for most people and even if you just add a timer to your existing water heater, you'll save a lot of electricity and water too.Electric tankless? Wow, don't let me get started. If your home normally has 200 amp service and you want electric tankless water heat, you will have to increase service to 300 or 320 amps, have larger wire, conduit, and a larger panel to accommodate the two or three double pole breakers to feed the monster.The only time my clients have ever run out of hot water is when they have a huge soaking tub that holds 50 gallons of water or so and they aren't using that every day. You could also get a supplemental small point of use tankless like the ones featured in the ads that pop up under this article, like the one from Home Depot for less than $140 and put it under a sink at or close to the point of use.I hope this helps you make a good decision and determine what is best for your situation. Good luck!

[@markfellows7246]

Great video Matt.How about one with the tankless with recirculator pump theres two types manifold ,recirculator line very interested in which ones best Thanks keep up the good work

[@user-jg3fd8od1k]

Could you do a video on the electric ones being that not everyone has access to gas ?

[@lunchboxproductions1183]

Cody Holifield I'd bet that more people have access to gas than the amount of electricity required to run an electric tankless. They're ridiculously power hungry, even more so than many electric furnaces.

[@user-jg3fd8od1k]

Lunchbox Productions I can understand that but that's my issue I have no access to gas

[@misterhat5823]

Micheal, A 5K system wouldn't be able to power one of these. Electric on-demand heaters are power hungry. More like 25Kw, or more, just for the heater (when it's on.) For a solar system, that'd be the worst choice you can make.

[@chriswilson7138]

Tankless electrics put a ton of strain on the electric grid. They require very heavy gauge cable too if modifying from an existing tank system (10 gauge wont do at all). Some models require 3 double pole breakers (6 full breaker slots) just to power it. The other option for electric only houses is a heat pump tank water heater. Matt has a few videos on these as well as "ask this old house". Heat pump might be a good option if you live in a cooling dominating climate and have a place to put it like a garage or attic.

[@SuperVstech]

For an all electric house, I’d recommend a tank with a mixing valve so output temp is regulated at 115F and the tank temp is 140... nearly limitless water.

[@cohall46]

Excellent info regarding the condensing tankless - but why is the condensation acidic?

[@rickymcgrath2314]

last i checked, all Rheem tankless units have a condensate neutralizer built in so the condensate isn’t no where near as acidic as stated.

[@cyrex686]

Nobody else noticed the box chucker at 6:26?

[@twobighands]

I did now :)

[@treeclimbing7798]

cyrex686 : Yes, probably an auto worker !!

[@VincentTapia]

Ah, FedEx just delivered! Thanks!

[@D-Khaz]

Good summary, thanks! Can you describe how you size these based on the number of hot water fixtures you will have in a home? What assumptions do you make about maximum demand? Also, hope to see a similar set of videos on hydronic radiant heat sources!

[@HomeandShopTV]

Matt, perfect timing, I’m educating myself now for an upgrade this year. Great stuff!

[@ltsgarage7780]

Deep Dive?? You just talked about the Rheem tankless. There are much better units on the market today. I feel Navien is one of the best. Plus most come with Stainless steel heat exchangers and a buffer tank with a built in recirculation system. Stainless steel heat exchangers do not need to be serviced as often as the standard copper coil. (Rheem)

[@Bluefox43143]

You are right. if you want a tankless. Get Navien. It is the closest one to get your money back for going tankless. They go bad also just like every thing else.

[@RobertViani]

Great over view thank you. Considering a unit for a cottage on my property using propane. Water softeners that discharge into a septic system can cause deterioration to concrete tanks. Wondering if the acidic nature of the condensate will alter the bacteria and possibly the concrete septic tank??

[@hotrodplumber]

Have fun keeping it work! You can buy 4 HWT's for the cost of installing one of the tanks heaters and have 40 years of maintenance free service!!!! 20 year warnty on the heat exchanger for the tankless heater. I haven't seen one last that long. They will give you a new exchanger but will not pay for the install?!?!

[@Bluefox43143]

N G You are right. And I pipe up the recirculateing line so it circulates by thermal expanion, so no puup needed. So you have hot water at every faucet all the time.

[@rega5950]

I've had to use the stainless steel venting in a previous install and it drove the cost of considerably. My only question is what about venting through a brick chimney? Does the condensate destroy chimneys? Would I have to run stainless all the way to the roof?

[@dennis-qu7bs]

Thanks Matt. That was very comprehensive.

[@sandbacktechnicaldesigninc4375]

Great video, thanks. Our house does not have gas to it, electric only. What are your views on Electric on demand heaters? Cheers.

[@TheHandsOnChannel]

Great vid, I'm curious if you have ever used tank-less with a radiant floor hydronic system. If so I'd be curious about performance. We are finishing up a house in the High Rockies and it has tubing for radiant heat. I also need to heat water and don't know if I should go with 2 tank less units, a combi boiler, or just an old fashioned boiler. Any feedback will be appreciated.

[@malcolmgambrill2692]

Good Videos, but when you do these it would be nice if you spec the overall install cost against the savings to gain a better insight into payback against the extra expense. I say spec the same job (which could be an imaginary model house) for all types to include all savings, things like PVC vs Stainless, number of fitting needed, or the need to install a drain, time saved /labour cost etc.

[@michaelharris1895]

Matt, in your videos I haven`t heard you mention how demand and flow are addressed. In my last house in Calif.I replaced my tank w/a tankless mounted outside. All went well including the city insp. My research shows that with more demand, you can expect les flow I> E> washing clothes and someone starts a shower, or 2 people showering at the same time. Thot water temp stays stable but there is less flow to each outlet. not really a big problem unless you have many folks in the same house. Also my plumber told me that units exposed to the sun most of the day in Calif. would sometimes have electronic failures due to heat. Mine was located so that it was shaded much of the day. Probably much less of a problem here in Georgia or the n/east. What are your thoughts? M. Harris

[@lrc87290]

Was recently at a relatives house which has a tankless. I was loading the dish washer and I like to rinse the dishes with warm/hot at a low flow. If cut the hot water back too much the water turned cold. I assume there is a minimum flow that the heater needs to fire.

[@keithkareiva9615]

Great videos with great information. How about some information for us Northerners? What would be your recommendation for a house with a large soaking bathtub up North? Previously we had two 50 gallon heaters. I replaced them with a traditional water heater and a condensing water heater. It's a good set up, but when the traditional dies, should I buy another condensing? Would I send one into the other? Should I plumb them parallel? Should I buy a holding tank? Should I put the holding tank in front of the water heater to temper the incoming water, or should I put in after the water heater to hold the temp? Thanks for any info.

[@keithkareiva9615]

Life is too stressful.

[@badmatt4227]

Exhaust vent 3:20 can I run about 4 feet of stainless with a ninety, then connect to an existing galvanized vent?

[@infomercialguy]

Great channel. I'm subscribed. Question, i live in Chicago. Natural Gas. Going tankless. Should i go with Rinnai or Navien? I would rather spend more money up front and have better quality. Just wondering what your experience has been as i don't know what company makes the best tankless. THANKS.

[@wayneblake1886]

I have had 3 Rhreem #84 tankless water heater . 2013 , 2016, 2018

[@palarious]

Not to mention going outdoor unit might save you $100-400, because the indoor models rarely come with the vent included and often cost more. I plumbed gas for interior before realizing my mistake. Because I needed to install two units, I basically lost $1000.

[@leejohnson8915]

Anyone ever consider using multiple, smaller point-of-use tankless heaters? I’ve debated putting one in each room (i.e. each bathroom or kitchen). They can be smaller and will need a lower flow rate since they’re only supplying one room, and you’d have the added benefit of only needing to run one supply line to each room, since the hot and cold would branch at the room. It’d also mean you’d get hot water fast without needing a recirculating pump, which I never liked because it pumps warm water into your cold line, and so you get quick hot water at the cost of very slow cold water. Obviously for ventilation it’d be more work with multiple units - electric would be better but not sure if smaller point-of-use systems would have sufficiently lower current requirements vs whole-house units that it would work well.

[@VC-Toronto]

Any chance you could do a installation cost comparison between an internal condensing versus non-condensing? (of the same BTU class) I'm assuming that a non-condensing would require a more expensive chimney liner, but be less expensive to buy, whereas a condensing would be less expensive for exhaust venting, but would have a higher capital cost. To see some real world numbers would be helpful. (of course it would have to be based on a specific area, but the comparative cost ratio would likely hold pretty true anywhere in North America.)

[@justfly2525]

I wasn't expecting to learn much but I did! Thanks Matt

[@GeorgiySt]

Matt is the man. Smooth talker and nice looking : )

[@user-vw4ej3fl1q]

What are the venting needs for these. Can vent be stubbed to the exterior of the wall or are they required to go to the roof, and or ridge?

[@jeffgellerman4926]

Found your video very informative. What about electric tankless water heaters? I bought one for a garage I recently built and for $400 think it's great. Planning on building a new home this year and figure I need 3 tankless heaters and would like to use the electric ones?

[@VertigoGTI]

Great info and great video. After watching your video on tankless vs. tank, I ended up replacing our water heater in our current house with another tank. However, we're getting ready to build a new house and this video helped me get a batter understanding of how the condensing tankless operates. A well deserved like and subscribe from me. :)

[@taz6122]

in China!

[@draintheswamp1588]

I wish you'd gotten into the gas pipeline size and volume required for these units. I've seen that on other channels but bit and pieces here and there aren't giving me a clear picture of what I need to replace my gas 40 gal heater.

[@mechanictaft4848]

Its pretty simple look up your units btu ratings then your stove and whatever else there is a fomula but towns also make up different codes

[@chadwiley6917]

I have a 40 gallon gas water heater(tank). Thinking about going tank less but there is not electrical outlet in the closet where the tank is located. I think one has to have an outlet to plug in the thermostat but I'm not sure.

[@MrDrkNoir]

My Takugi model just stop working after purchasing my home for 3 months. I would try to DIY in fixing the issue but I rather get a new one and start fresh and new so i can be familiar with the operation