E1 CODE AIR CONDITIONER MINI SPLIT TROUBLESHOOTING

[@rvrrocket2765]

Even the carrier tech support didn’t explain all you went into. Great video. Thanks for the help

[@ACPro]

Glad you liked it!

[@butchruedrich1940]

You have a nice calm voice and a simple way of explaining things! I've been doing this for 42 years and stopped attending Seminars a while back! Should be retired but thanks to this great inflation I've been forced back into the game so I appreciate your help.

[@ACPro]

Great!!! Always glad to help

[@megantones2501]

We have a Kelvinator very similar to this one. After we'd had it for about 3 years, there was a flood and the water came up to about 30cm on the outdoor unit. We had it serviced by an electrician who gave us the all clear. It worked for 6 months, then started throwing an E1 error. The unit will come on for about 15 mins, blowing room temperature air, then shut off.

[@ACPro]

Not communicating. Failed compressor or outdoor board. If it's 3 yrs old and already been in a flood . Replace it.

[@tyecowan9796]

NIce Video. We have a ComfortStar that has been working great for about 18 months, and throws an E1 code during rain or high humid days. We would let the weather clear, cycle the power and be on our way until the next weather event. Well, this past week, our tried and true "wait and try again" method has failed. Can you think of a reason why it would throw an E1 code during wet weather? Shouldn't that be a clue as to where to look when I crack the box open?

[@ACPro]

The board outside had a coating on it and it is possible yours may have missed spot. This can cause moisture to short the 5 volts needed for the data circuit. Order a new outdoor board under warranty

[@btoney83]

I’m having the same issue. Did you solve your problem?

[@HVASEA]

Great video...Good info to help make a diagnosis.

[@ACPro]

Thank you

[@Chezowan1]

Hi Toby - thanks for the video. I am getting an E1 code immediately after installing a brand new Mr Cool. AC voltage on indoor and outdoor units are 240V. DC voltage on outdoor unit on 2 and 3 fluctuates positive numbers (nothing negative), DC voltage on indoor 2 and 3 fluctuates negative numbers (nothing positive). Fan mode run fine, AC also generates air (but its 50 degrees outside, so likely just a fan and no compressor), but heat does nothing - vent opens up, but no air comes out - sits for about 8 minutes with no air coming out then shows the EL-01 code. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

[@ACPro]

2 things . L1 and l2 can not be crossed indoor to outdoor. And also there can not be a splice. Even a solder joint will cause a data issue. Also no solid core wire . Cut off the end terminals and just straight wire under terminals. Hope it helps

[@Chezowan1]

Very much appreciate the quick response. I had an electrician wire this up, im a novice as far as electric goes… so you think L1 and L2 are crossed? The communication wire from indoor to outdoor is just 1,2,3 which we definitely didn’t cross. Then we have l1 and l2 on the 240V coming from my circuit box. Which wires sound crossed to you? Thanks again!

[@seanhalloran6311]

In field Sr technician. Great Video

[@leocruz4288]

Great job!

[@ACPro]

Thank you

[@michaelmartin3926]

Does it matter which order i wired it up for example left to right red white blue and black same on indoor

[@ACPro]

As long as it is same indoor and outdoor. Is all that matter

[@paygesimms5797]

Hello. After a big storm on of my recently installed mr cool units threw an e1 code. The other unit did not. They have separate outdoor units, not a split system. Powered down for 30mins, rebooted, didn’t work. Checked wires and voltage reads as it should indoor and outdoor and no loose wires. Where should I start in your opinion. Could it be the board, or reactor? When I unplug the main sensor plug, if the unit operates does that mean it’s one of the sensors? If so do I individually unplug the sensors afterward to pinpoint which it may be? Checking the voltage on the board tells me that it’s a sensor and not the board, right? If so how do I tell if the board is the culprit? Thank you in advance, your time is much appreciated!

[@paygesimms5797]

Also testing from hot to hot reads 240v. From one hot lead to ground 120. Other hot to ground 120v. From one hot to neutral 120v. From the other hot to neutral reads nothing. Is this normal? Does this indicate something wrong or broken? Thanks

[@paygesimms5797]

If the power leads from indoor to outdoor are not matched, IE red is l1 inside and black is l2 outside for the power wires. Does this only matter for com wiring? Also the unit it a Mr cool. Not sure if the leads are actually marked l1 and l2 but it was just something I was wonder to try and figure this oit

[@ACPro]

Possible a season. Check each one to ground . But unplug each one and see if it operates. Also see if one is open . Check ohms according to the sensor chart in the manual

[@ACPro]

They have to match. This is your problem.

[@paygesimms5797]

The unit has had both the indoor and outdoor boards warranties and replaced. A separate HVAC company has come out to replace them and trouble shoot. They’ve confirmed the wiring is correctly 3 times now as well as myself and an employee of mine checking. The last time the new indoor board came the company said it’s not working and that they must’ve sent a bad board? I went back out again today, and did a DC test and now that the boards have been replaced it’s stuck on negative between com wire #3 and #2 red on 2 black on 3. I’ve looked for s reactor and I don’t see one on this mr cool unit. They sent me back out to press a reset button the board and wait for the led display to say CE. My unit doesn’t have a button or display just a flashing led light that is currently red I’d assume it’s sending a code via the flashes and color. I’ve unplugged the sensors and the unit will kind of come on. The indoor display while doing so says nothing and the fan turns on but no heat or cooling. Before the boards were replaced it would turn on the condenser for about 5-10 minutes before giving the code. Resetting via the breaker the E1 immediately displays. I’m frustrated with the warranty company. I’d like them to just send a new unit as I’ve spent hours of phone time, driving, and replacing parts as well as paying the company to try. The problem should be indoor board if it’s stuck negative, right? But it was just replaced. Is there anything else that could be the issue inside other than wiring since I know it’s correct? Anyway thanks for your help. I’m at my wits end with the unit and mr cool. I don’t know where to continue. I don’t want to go in circles replacing more stuff when the whole unit could be replaced and we’d be done. How much more can you do to find it’s still not working? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again

[@leocruz4288]

Hi! I got a 12000 btu Klimaire mini split KSIAO series. It worked for about 6 years nice but two months ago I noticed it was not giving enough heat. And today no heat at all even though the fans are blowing. I did check pressure on cooling mode to see if it need refrigerant. And I found that not need refrigerant because the temperature is high 165psig F. Then I check pressure on heat mode 195 psig F. Now it does not show errors! Can you expand on this problem. Thank you for your support.

[@ACPro]

Pressure is relative to indoor fan speed. They have anti cold air function. So if you notice indoor fan very slow blowing air . Means you low in refrigerant

[@leocruz4288]

@@ACPro Thank you for your reply. I dont see any leaks and no freezing pipes. Tomorrow Iam going add few ounces of R410 a by weight and see how it react. I will not recover because I dont have a machine to do it. Would the presure goes down from 165 psig to about 130 psig? Or what to expect? I hope Iam not asking to much. Thank you so much for helping and your time.

[@ACPro]

@LEO CRUZ Re yoy talking low side pressure or high? High should be alot more than that.

[@leocruz4288]

@@ACPro I checked pressure in cooling mode and it is 165 psig which I understand is hight. Then I switch to heat mode and it 195 psig which is low. Thank you

[@leocruz4288]

Hi! I did try to weigh in few ounces of refrigerant to the unit, but it seems it was backing into the refrigerant tank because the scale numbers were increasing. Realizing this I discontinued. Also the compressor got louder. Thank you for your support.

[@clivefutube]

Everytime it rains here in California I get the E1 code for a couple of days. Can it be fixed?

[@ACPro]

This sounds like moisture inside outdoor unit is building around control board.

[@running_rich]

Great explanation. I have 2 zone system. I intermittently get the E1 code on the basement wall unit. I reset the power and then it works for a while, then the E1 comes back a day or so later. The other wall unit in the sunporch has never threw the the E1 and has been working fine. Before continuing the troubleshooting, does this mean the problem is isolated to the basement wall unit or wiring, but rules out the outdoor unit?

[@ACPro]

Not necessarily rule out outdoor. But first thing I would do is make sure no splices in the wire and make sure it is not solid core . Also sometimes the terminal ends can cause the problem. You can cut off the s terminal ends and wire directly with striped copper under the screw

[@running_rich]

@@ACPro Thanks. Found that the installer used 14-3 NMB (solid not wet rated!). Thinking I should replace with a "tray cable". So that should be fine outdoors and stranded?

[@ACPro]

​@running_rich yes replace it with 14-4 tray order from Amazon or homedpote web site and hope this is your problem.

[@martinsutton7120]

Toby,' I am getting an E1 error. It is a dual head unit. Only get the error on one of the two indoor units. I have checked everything, all looks good. I have changed both boards. Worked for little while than quit. I have changed the Wiring from A unit to B unit. on the outdoor unit. The Error stays with Unit A indoors. Any ideas? Indoor sensors?? Thanks in advance! Martin Sutton

[@ACPro]

The wiring from indoor to outdoor needs to be stranded wire. Solid core will only cause communication issues. And l1 and l2 can not be crossed.

[@elainebrown6418]

Good information

[@ACPro]

Thanks

[@marc-andrest-pierre4512]

Hi there I have a Midea unit with two heads (living room and bed room) and the E1 problem occurs on one head unit only. The second one works well. What do you think it could be ?

[@ACPro]

Well could be wiring or board. I personally would swing zone 1 and 2 on outdoor board and see if e1 is still on same unit. If it is you can conclude it is indoor board or wire. If it changes to other indoor unit it is outdoor board.

[@marc-andrest-pierre4512]

Hi again, I switched both zones cables on outside unit, but the same zone unit shows E1 Could it be the zone unit itself ?

[@ACPro]

@@marc-andrest-pierre4512 if you switched you eliminated possibly of outdoor board. So it is either indoor board. Or wire to that zone is solid core and or it is spliced. This is normally what I find. Solid wire or spliced wire. You can always order some stranded cable from Amazon and run new cable through a window and tie in to indoor unit as a temporary test. To check cable . It's a easy way to eliminate cable possibilities

[@marc-andrest-pierre4512]

Thanks for your help ! I opened the fault unit and one wire was not screwed properly ! Installation problem ! Thightened the screw ans works fine

[@ACPro]

@@marc-andrest-pierre4512 thank you for Letts everyone know. I'm sure this will help someone in the future

[@eduardokirk]

Ok i can check the sensors but where I can buy a new sensor for the air conditioner

[@ACPro]

Contact manufacturer of your unit .

[@chargermopar]

Of course even with the power off those bigger capacitors have a nice shock waiting for anyone touching them. My Cassic 24000 BTU system was working great, power went off and on and the E1 code came up a few minutes later. Outside unit has been dead ever since. Puled the board and checked it for obvious damage, found none. Was wondering if hooking an oscilloscope to the signal wire would be a good idea? What protocol is used for the units to communicate?

[@ACPro]

Go to manufacturer website and look for extended service manuals. Each board and model is different and they can be very detailed.

[@chargermopar]

@@ACPro No information is available for this model, company website has no links to anything.

[@ACPro]

@@chargermopar This isn't normal for a good product.. I would be concerned if parts were even available. A lot of the cheaper units are disposable and not worth your time and hassle to try and repair. just make sure you review product for others to know your experience.

[@chargermopar]

@@ACPro I am thinking the distributor has several manufacturers they buy from over in China. This unit has been well made physically and has no corrosion issues. A video will be coming about my experience.

[@chargermopar]

@@ACPro I am thinking the distributor has several manufacturers they buy from over in China. This unit has been well made physically and has no corrosion issues. A video will be coming about my experience.

[@elwingperez360]

Excellent Video any ideas where I can buy the connection Block?

[@ACPro]

Maybe can try ebay

[@jrbettas4575]

Hi I'm having e1 code on all four indoor units but all come on for about five minutes but outdoor unit just beeps one time then nothing. Have called seller of unit walked though troubleshooting test had me replace main board only to do same thing. Called back more tests and now the say inverter board needs replaced but they don't sound sure. This part is considerably more than mian board any info on what to check? Thanks for your video. And any help if you still answering to this video

[@ACPro]

I think the main give away is that it's on all units. This means there is no communication. There must be a constant 5vdc on the drive board or you may have a Eprom failures. The next concern is is it just the board or do you have a shorted part that destroyed the board. If unit is out of warranty maybe need consider replacing

[@kennethmeyer7113]

Another example of "nothing is hard if you know how to do it!"

[@ACPro]

Thank you . Agreed 😁

[@zamouseza]

Hello. Nice video. Have a Beko witch is in E1. After about a few minutes of the indoor unit is on but no start to the outdoor unit. It gives E1 I unplug it from the outlet to recover from the E1 but still it appears. Disconnected the sensors from the outdoor unit and no change. Disconnect the indoor sensors and in gives E3 and E5. It is a 240v and doesn't have a reactor or as valve (xv sv).what could it be besides the pcb. The sensors gives 9k, 9k, and 50k at 70 degrees ( 20 celcius) for the outdoor unit. And 9k and 50k the indoor unit

[@ACPro]

Either wire connection . Splice or pcb

[@Valor4Christ]

Hey there, I have a mini ductless split unit, cooling works great, and blows fine. When I try to switch it over to the heating, heat pump, it does not do anything inside or outside. Would you be able to help me troubleshoot this?

[@ACPro]

There are so many possibilities with your senerio i dont believe its possible to troubleshoot on here. But first thing I would suggest is find out if it is a heat pump. Just because the remote has heat and cool doesn't mean the unit has this function. And if it is a heat pump then there is not a difference in heating and cooling cycle besides the changeover of 1 valve. So maybe try giving it more time after .switching the remote over . It can take upto 8 minutes

[@Valor4Christ]

Tobys place thanks for the reply, I have left it to switch over up to 45 min; still nothing. I know the unit has plenty of refrigerant in it. The unit is only a year old.

[@Valor4Christ]

Over used the heating on it all last winter

[@ACPro]

Start by .. bypassing remote and put in auto mode. Get manual and find out what is the default temp in auto.

[@Valor4Christ]

Tobys place I done did it, and nothing happened

[@francoisoosthuizen6663]

Great help, thanks

[@ACPro]

Glad it helped

[@danielcheng769]

Hi Toby I have a big mystery going on... I've been getting E1 codes randomly after the unit has been running for a while, doesn't happen every time. Here's the kicker: I have a mini-pump for that handler, and the pump would stop working & I have water leaking from the handler. Now the pump also makes loud humming noise unless I cut the power to the handler. Oh and today the air smelled sourly too. The other handler (no mini-pump) in this system works fine though! What could this be?!! I searched everywhere online and can't anything close to my situation... =(

[@ACPro]

Sounds to me like the saftey on the mini pump is using the data line to break if the float reaches overflow point. Best thing to do is get ride of that mini pump. If there is space behind the wall install a large pump and make sure the drain goes straight down. Watch my drain video. Also diversitic makes a large pump that mount externally below the unit with a nice cover so it looks good. These pumps are strong and allows drain to go straight down.

[@rogercoltson]

I have A/C power NO D/C at the 5v test place. I have a 230v system. Installed it good. Ran for 10 day and quit. However I have + v only on terms L2 and S. Brand New. It was 106 the day it went out. I am almost 70 and cant handle the heat like i did when I was younger Help

[@ACPro]

you should be getting volatge on l1 and l2 .. start here !

[@докторборменталь-д8р]

Hi. The new olmo inverter air conditioner ran for 3 days. An error appeared: there is no connection between the blocks. I checked the communication wire, the signal is on. I checked the reactor, there is no break. Where to look for a breakdown? When the air conditioner stopped working, there was a thunderstorm and heavy rain.

[@ACPro]

Only 3 days. Send it back to where you got it. Possibly defect in control

[@ToeKneeMes]

Hey Toby, My mini split goes on for 5-10mins then trips the breaker any idea what may be causing this? Great video by the way..

[@ACPro]

This is not normal for mini split to trip the breaker. And your issue can be so many things. But first let me say best rule of troubleshooting is look at the installation and wiring first . Take a look at all connections make sure they are tight , make sure there is no discoloration on the wire ends. Go to the breaker and feel it while its running and see if its hot. Take your amprobe around the wire and see how much current is going through the wires. Make sure the terminal on the breaker is tight. I have seen that problem many times. Only then move to the machine. After checking current compare it to current it should be pulling on the data plate. If the system is a few years old you could have dirty outdoor coils cuasing high amp draw. Or if anyone put refrigerant in the system it could be over charged causing this issue. But best way to find the problem is blame the machine last . Start at breaker box and work to the machine.

[@MemyselfIrene6]

Do I contact a HVAC person or an electrician to fix the E1 Error?

[@ACPro]

For sure hvac. Electrican only connects devices. They not do anything with hvac technology. But not just any hvac guy . Make sure they are trained with your brand and have it in writing that whatever parts needed first diagnosis will repair problem. Some are untrained and guess at problems that ends up costing you.

[@elainebrown6418]

How can o get in touch with u

[@ACPro]

Do you have a job offer or a offer for a reveiw?

[@elainebrown6418]

Just need your video on how to check the sensors in mini split units