Are modified 3D printers better? Stock vs upgraded Ender 3 comparison

[@TeachingTech]

Hopefully my answer to this question can pour water on some of the flame wars I've seen about this question. Another criticism I see is that a person might start with a cheap printer and then spend much more than its purchase price upgrading it. People ask: Why not just buy the more expensive printer in the first place? 1. Maybe the person can only afford small amounts at all. 2. Maybe the person is aiming to learn about their printer and get their hands dirty rather than buy an off the shelf solution. 3. Maybe the person just really enjoys tinkering and tuning 3D printers. In my opinion each scenario is fine, as is the one when someone buys an expensive printer because that's what meets their needs.

[@RonnieLaugen]

Was about to make a comment, but for me #3 is on point! I got the Ender 3 specifically to tinker. I've done upgrades here and there since getting it 1.5 years ago, everything from tiny stuff (stiffer springs) to more major stuff (mainboard, dd, tft etc). I've spent maybe 200-250$ over 1.5 years on it, and I've learnt so much over that time that I would never have learnt with a prusa which just works™

[@bfrzty]

Those are exaclty the reasons why I opted for a budget printer as my first 3D printer. I've really learned a lot along the road which makes me appreciate this hobby even more. My next one is definitely gonna be a more expensive one, though. ;^)

[@ianide2480]

When I started I got the cheapest crap I could afford. A few years ago I snagged an Anet A8, when they were still new. I looked it over and used it for a short time. I took everything that I didn't like about the printer and kept it all in mind when designing and building my own printer. I ended up with linear rails on all axis, a bltouch so I can print on any type of "normal" surface, silent stepper drivers, all aluminum frame, 32 bit mainboard, all metal hotend with a hardened steel nozzle, and I'm always making minor modifications on it. I would say that design and iteration are my main hobby because I enjoy that more than printing. In fact I'm now designing a delta style printer (just to have one) and I'll make a CoreXY after this one. I never ask "why" when it comes to a person making mods to anything they own. It's a hobby, that's why. Some people dump seemingly pointless hours and money into a car. Some people buy plants to go around the house every spring. Some people buy drawing/painting supplies all the time. The list goes on and on....

[@lioneljouvet4517]

@@bfrzty like you, better learning how to drive on a tractor, before driving on the road :)

[@jfaristide]

#3 here. Got an Ender 5 and a 5 Plus, each sitting well over a grand. Love to tinker :)

[@rondlh20]

I probably spend more time upgrading my 3D printers than I spend printing useful thing with them... it's part of the fun

[@lloydmeakin372]

You could very easily argue that upgrading it to make sure you have the advantages towards other prints is useful in itself

[@losnycfpv2872]

Same here

[@duality4y]

i have two printers one to print on and one to tinker with :D

[@enlightendbel]

Yeah man. I started with an Ender 3 Pro, upgraded everything about it I could. Then found that the supports I made 3D Printed, I still didn't like how wobbly it was. So, I thought, why not build a CNC, now I know how a 3D printer works, not just some desktop CNC for wood tho, no, I want to CNC aluminium! So I did. Then I used that CNC to make alu parts to make itself sturdier and then I thought to make the Ender 3 sturdier, but since I now had a decent mastery of how these things work, thought, hrm, if I just get some aluminium profiles, I can make a much larger printer with a better axis layout. So I did, it's 1x1x1M with a steel bottom frame. Now I was offered a Micro Lathe for relatively cheap and noticed I could make that thing so much better CNCing and 3D printing better parts for it and when that's done I should be able to turn quite a few improved parts for the CNC and 3DP. I've also started thinking about upgrading my bench drill, a nice 2-axis magnetic bed would be schweet. My hobby now is making machines to make machines to make machines to make machines better. Other than parts for the CNC and 3DP, all I printed so far was a vase for my mum. I have CNC'd more parts for stuff like my mountainbike and brackets for my car tho. But 3D Printing, yeah, not actually used that for anything other than machining yet.

[@jimbobbyrnes]

got my printer from a friend who had a sewage burst. modifying it is a must for me.

[@Jcontention]

You should absolutely not modify because once you start it's over, you'll never stop tweaking the printer or buying that next part for a mod. It's heroin printing nerds.

[@Tazokk]

And when you see the difference, it's totally useless xD

[@SittingDuc]

Buy printer. Print mods for printer using printer. Repeat. ;)

[@vincentgarcia6630]

Sounds like Skyrim modding hahaha

[@TechnoWit3D]

Totally Agreee!

[@jefftalbot]

I just purchased an Ender 5 for my first 3D printer. It hasn't even arrived yet and I know more about the mods I'm going to make to it than what I'm going to print with it afterwards :/

[@soggynode]

My E3 has always printed well so I tend to add upgrades when I wear something out. The stock extruder worked fine but when it eventually wore out, I replaced it with an all metal dual gear model. When my build surface got worn and damaged, I replaced it with a spring steel PEI model. With a nice new build surface to work with, I decided a BLTouch would be a good way to keep it in good shape. The nice thing is, upgrades to an Ender are generally inexpensive and easy to add over time. Many thanks to all the great YTubers like Michael that make it easy to choose and install all the various Ender upgrades.

[@ericcsuf]

The best answer to "What mods should I do?" I've seen. Every newbie is bombarded with answers to this question that list every must-have mod. Many of them will only complicate the problems they are having. My answer has always been, don't do anything yet. When you are producing the great prints the Ender 3 is capable of, then and only then will you know what mods YOU need and have the experience to evaluate them. My answer on the forums from now on is going to be a link to this video.

[@marifla9266]

Stronger springs is a must tho. Haven't leveled for half a year.

[@ericcsuf]

@@marifla9266 I don't know that for sure anymore. Creality was very responsive early on to criticisms. A number of the things we had to replace were fixed along the way by Creality and don't require changing anymore. But I went another way. I eliminated the springs entirely and went to solid three-point mounting for the bed. Faster, easier leveling and no need to periodically level if I don't change anything.

[@Waltkat]

@@marifla9266 Hmm, I have the stock springs in my 3 year old Ender 3 and I only level my bed when I change nozzles and occasionally when I clean the glass bed.

[@thebikeracer]

@@ericcsuf do you have a link to your three-point solution?

[@marifla9266]

@@ericcsuf yes, creality fixed some things (extruder, xt30 plug) but the springs are still the same. I am also not sure if the 3 point mount Is really that beginner friendly and cheap enough to be a must Upgrade.

[@lookitsrain9552]

I always tell people when they purchase a new 3D printer is to leave the machine stock, and get it printing good quality before upgrades, throwing upgrades at problems almost always never solves the problem.

[@monkeytube138]

I've only just started printing and my buddy gave me the same advice. So I'm just printing and tweaking. I did swap the levelling springs for solid mounts, but otherwise I'm not changing anything until I really get this machine.

[@monkeytube138]

@Chip The Cat Pirate • well, the stock extruder snapped, so I'll be upgrading that, although that's less a mod and more an upgrade.

[@FilamentFriday]

Nice summary Michael. You explained everything very clearly. I suspect though that you are close to doubling the cost of the original stock Ender 3 with all those upgrades. That also has to be added to the decision to upgrade.

[@SchwachsinnProduzent]

I think with those upgrades he is already beyond that. A normal Ender 3 is so cheap, some hotends can be already just as expensive. Stock Ender 3 costs 155€ including shipping here rn. Microswiss Hotend alone is ~75€ here, which would be alrady half of it. Noctua fans usually cost ~15€ each. The direct drive wasn't cheap and the linear rails weren't either...

[@TeachingTech]

Good point Chuck. I addressed this scenario in a pinned comment, please check it out and let me know what you think.

[@FilamentFriday]

Teaching Tech - I did see your post and those are all good points.

[@almsco]

I only just started and paid 130Euro or 169,99USD for my Ender 3 (direct from Creality in Germany). I have already made a couple of changes like clips for the ribbon cable, the fan cover for the electronics and the Winsinn extruder which works much better than the stock one. Print results have been really good so far. One question I have is, if I use the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX fans do I have to change the PCB or can I leave that as it is?

[@theglowcloud2215]

Dude, an accurate, reliable 3D printer is worth its weight in gold. A stock Ender is a liability. If you're just a hobbyist and don't want to spend much money, find another hobby. $400-600 for a competent 3D printer is a great value, if you're willing to do the modding necessary.

[@HushangA]

This video brings up some great points. 3D printing isn't always about print quality, sometimes it's about ease of use and quality of life. Having a magnetic bed changed my printing experience and made it so much more pleasing

[@Billybobble1]

I have found Michael's Ender 3 tutorials invaluable and perfect for my needs. The Ender 3 is a fantastic starting point, especially for the price. I love the option for incremental upgrades as I get the funds to do so. Not only that, I thoroughly enjoy the experience of doing these upgrades myself, even if following guides, it grows my knowledge and I become more attached to my printer. I would love to commit more time to learning the hard way, Michael saves me that time with his fantastic and informative videos and I have zero regrets getting an Ender 3. Creality really should give him a sponsorship for the service he provides us end users. In my short time with 3D printing and owning an Ender 3, I felt I knew the answer to the question posed, and Michael delivered the answers methodically and as expected. Standalone the Ender 3 is awesome, but the upgrades here and there really make you feel much more in tune with 3D printing as a concept and proud of what you learn along the way and knowing the subtle benefits. I think it must be very comparable to a petrol-head gloating about their car specs to a person who is happy to just let the garage sort out the maintenance. I didn't buy into this just to 3D print, I wanted a hobby and I cannot recommend the Ender 3 enough, as well as Michael's videos to re-assure along the journey. I have a Raspberry Pi with Klipper fw and I have yet to isolate why, after an amount of time, usually over 10 hours, the printer will just die and only a reboot of the printer and the Pi will bring it back to life, but any print on the go will have failed. I think this is down to OctoPi but so far it has only ruined a few prints. In my brief experience I feel you want to print direct from an SD card as much as possible. In time I will upgrade the Melzi board but I feel the Pi upgrade was worth the risk even though it's only a relatively slight improvement in terms of print head motion. I removed a lot of plugins but the issue has remained, the longer the printer has been active the more likely a fail could happen. I bought heatsinks for the Pi but this did not resolve it. Any advice on this is welcome. My one criticism is there could/should be more dog cameos.

[@odderret]

I couldn't agree more! I'm new to 3D printing and these videos have enriched me and in turn all of the people in my life that I'm trying to share this fun with! Thank you!

[@Pfurious1]

I enjoy modifying my print and with Michaels help, it has been easy to do. I’m not doing this to make better prints, I do this because it is fun. Tinkering with mechanical and electrical gadgets is something I have always enjoyed. Thanks for all of the time you put into making these videos. Now I have a laser cutter\engraver and would like to see more video about that. Thanks again!

[@JoshUC]

I would like to have my ender 3 just like yours the one modified but my lack of knowledge and how expensive is to import the parts to my country make it impossible it is always great to watch all your videos you are such a smart person

[@derekhawley9660]

Michael ... thank you very much for still helping us all with our Ender 3s. I intend getting a second printer, and I will just get another standard Ender 3, and upgrade it a bit. The printer is unbelievable for the money (I've spent many times the printer cost on filament). Thanks again for your brilliant presentations. FYI ... I'm 66 years old.

[@davidbock5148]

It's a tool and a hobby and there is a lot of fun had adding the mods for me. Your guides have helped me add a better build plate, BL-Touch, E3D direct drive and Octoprint. Is it the end, I doubt it as you inspire me with a new controller as next probable mod :) the only disappointing mod for me was Octoscreen as was a lot of effort and I'm almost never using it, already back to the much better Octoprint interface. Many thanks for the guides and support.

[@davidcarter9322]

Great video! You are absolutely right I have made very modest "upgrades" to my Ender 3. I don't use my printer like many of the users on KZbin, I guess you can call me a hobbyist. I print things for fun and enjoyment, nothing more. I only recently started a project for my wife in making a practical PAPR for her work. She has health issues and wearing a face mask is a challenge, buying a PAPR is very expensive and hard to obtain, so I am making one. I have learned a lot from you and your fellow KZbin video makers. It has made 3D printing so much easier.

[@mathewphillips4185]

I like how you answered the question by not answering the question making a more informed decision is a lot better like you said some people modify because that's the way they want to some were just happy the way it runs I went the same way you did with a friend and we modified ours for the purpose of not having to constantly clean and adjust parts it also made it more reliable in the long run Good job Michael

[@mickplatts6196]

Great video as always 👍 A cost comparison between the stock and modified printers would be a great addition to the video.

[@coulomjo]

You channel helped me learned a lot about this hobby. I just placed an order for an Ender 3 V2 with the optional CR Touch and I'm looking forward to modding it. Keep up the good work!

[@chipschnarel6180]

Make it so I don't gouge prints or the bed with a scraper: Yes Make it so leveling is repeatable/reliable: Yes Make it quieter: Yes Make print quality better: Doesn't seem like any of these mods are significantly effective Make it more reliable over time: Probably depends on how many hours per week/month you are printing. Make it more maintainable: Probably only do these mods as needed. e.g. burn up a driver then replace board with one that has replaceable drivers. (If that wasn't already done as a part of making it quieter). Make the UI better: Meh. I'm pretty adaptable. Keep up the great videos. Thanks.

[@redavatar]

I agree - the mods I used for my Ender 3 were: (1) all metal extruder (€10) (2) 3 printed parts for improved cable management (maybe €1 in filament) (3) a glass bed (guaranteed no warping so bed levelling is rarely needed) (€20) (4) upgraded motherboard for quiet stepper motors (€33) (5) capricorn tubing (€9). Basically, all the most important mods and combined it cost me an extra €75 but well worth it.

[@jmtx.]

Thanks for a clear, precise, and fair comparison. It truly highlighted the different areas of improvement so that we can make educated decisions.

[@dawgofrick3]

Wish you would've mentioned the price for all the upgrades.

[@TeachingTech]

They're spread over a year and a half, it's difficult for me to recall sorry.

[@ramjetnuesse]

@@TeachingTech Lol, this is a non answer to a valid question. One must assume that at least three Ender 3 Pros could be owned for your one plus the mods. I'd rather have the three pros.

[@NunoLeitaoTheEpiq]

@@TeachingTech Hello Michael, what applies to you also applies to us. It's also difficult for us to recall; some of those mods I didn't even have seen... At least a rough number should have been given. This is exactly what is missing on this very complete video. Thank you and keep up the good work to the community.

[@maciex794]

@@ramjetnuesse You would spend the rest of your life tweaking the bed levelling knobs on all of them

[@nagginsnuggets9424]

around $450 US for most of those mods minus the extruder

[@sitgesvillaapartmentneilsc7924]

Your videos and reviews aee always Excellent viewing and packed with really helpful advice for newbies, oldies and just normal people who might want to watch one. Thank you for all the valuable input that you put in.

[@AutoBeta2T]

I'm very new to 3D printing (2 days) and I really appreciate the time and effort you have put in to helping new 3d printerists like me have a very successful start in the world of 3D printing. Thank you :)

[@MrCPPG]

I love the modifications you have done. I just orddered my first 3D printer and will definitely come back to this video to guide me through the mods.

[@leiflindqvist9095]

An excellent review of Ender 3 upgrades. My Ender is very mildly upgraded. However, I often see comments regarding bed leveling. My machine had a seriously bent bed from the start so I went to the glass master and got a glass plate cut to size. Since then, bed leveling is very rarely needed, and when needed it takes a minute or two. But to reduce the noise level, I look forward to doing that! Thanks for all the great print videos 👍🇸🇪

[@mosesve1]

My ender 3 pro is in a constant modification process since I purchased it one year ago. The print quality is still the same I think, but it is absolutely quiet. I build an enclosure for my raspi, mks and 2208 setup, including the psu with big noiseless noctua fans for cooling that parts. I then build an enclosure, designed my own fan duct for three noctua fans and the printer is now humming silently in my bedroom. Oh, and a new direct drive extruder with an E3D V6 Clone is underway. AND there is a skr 1.3 with 2209s already on my desk.... I love modding.

[@JeffJohnson]

I always wanted to get into 3D printing and the fact that you can mod your printer got me more into the hobby

[@jon9947]

Another great video! For me, I paid a bit less than $180 for my Ender 3 with shipping and taxes, so even a $18 part is 10% of the purchase price. Thats not to say I wont ever put money in my Ender 3, but so far it has worked flawlessly. The only adjustments I have had to make is to occasionally re level the bed. I have no doubt that people have some of the problems you speak about, as I have seen many people talk about them on reddit, but as for myself I havnt had any problems at all. I dont even like to waste plastic on printed parts, most of the parts I have printed have not had any impact on print quality or quality of life for my Ender 3. The best printed part I have done is some spring washers/stiffeners and the bed cable chain. PS your removing those parts wrong on your stock Ender 3, the bed build plate is removable for a reason and is simi flexible. Im sure you know this, but in the video you tried to take the parts off with the build plate attached to the bed. Removing the build plate not only helps keep the bed level, but makes removing parts 100x easier, thats not to say that sometimes parts dont stick too well, but in the video you are doing it the hard way. Something I have been curious of for a while is, when you do all the upgrades you recommend, is it cheaper to just buy some aluminum extrusion and build a frame than to upgrade a printer? I know eventually I will want at least a few upgrades.

[@jon9947]

Sounds like you built a nice printer. Only thing that puzzles me is why convert your z axis to belt? I understand why you want belts in x and y axis, but arnt you worried that using a belt will make the z axis fall?

[@SussexSEO]

Took the leap following inspiration from this video and modified my cr10 max with y-axis linear rails. What a difference!!!

[@Waltkat]

Thank you for another excellent video Michael. I feel that the Ender 3 is aimed toward the casual/hobby user and I think Creality hit the mark with it. Industrial/production users wouldn't/shouldn't be looking at anything in this price point anyway. My 3 year old Ender 3 is only lightly modified but the only noticeable improvements for me were the all metal filament feeder, glass bed, and all metal hot end. I've only had to adjust the rollers twice since I bought the printer. Once for the initial assembly and another a year later just for a touch up. The only time I level the bed is when I change the print nozzle and clean the glass bed. I have a BL Touch kit sitting on the shelf, just in case. My Ender is what I would consider heavily used since I'm constantly printing something. Rarely is it ever sitting still. I bought an Anycubic Predator but it's still sitting in it's box awaiting attention. I may buy another Ender 3 for printing small stuff. I don't mind the stepper motor "singing" since I've worked on industrial manufacturing equipment for years, but I installed an SKR Mini E3 board just because I could. Not sure if it was a placebo effect or not, but I think I noticed a slight improvement in print quality with the new control board. I suppose the board being able to make modifying the firmware easier could be considered a plus. No difference in print quality was seen after I installed a linear rail for the Y axis. The stock Acetal(Delrin) rollers work fine for me and have lasted 3 years so far. There are various other minor changes I've done but I did them only because I like to fiddle around with things, not because the Ender needed them. The materials I've printed so far are PLA, PETG, ABS, and TPU. Want to try Nylon, CF/glass impregnated whatever, and PolyMide CoPA. My next changes are going to be separating all of the electronics from the main frame so that I can enclose said frame for printing ABS, ASA, Nylon, etc. Installing a TFT3.5 touch screen too, because I like the idea of using a USB dongle instead of a SIM card. I may install a higher wattage power supply along with larger gauge wire for the bed heater to hopefully enable faster bed heating when printing ABS and such. Also considering a direct feed Bondtech BMG extruder or one of it's clones. And as always, YMMV.

[@BLBlackDragon]

I got started on 3D printing by building a DIY Mendel. I'm very comfortable making mods, but having a reliable printer that doesn't take constant tweaking is nice. (Love my Ender) I've only made mods to address problems, or add capabilities. (Direct drive, all-metal, for flexibles) In my opinion, modding is a personal decision. If you don't need to mod, good on you. If you want/need to mod, kudos for taking the dive. In the end, it's all about getting good prints.

[@SolonTh]

Excellent video as always! I've been on the fence on wether to buy the Ender 3 or Ender 5. But this has convinced me to just buy the Ender 3 and upgrade it w/ the 32-bit board and bl-touch. I've had the Anet A8 and it's pretty much beyond repair (after many years of service) and i'm ready for a new start.

[@TheZolon]

I have one mostly stock Ender 3 (Upgraded z-leadscrew coupler, vent cover on mainboard, side mounted spool holder, filament guide). I have one slightly modified Ender 3 (Same as all above plus EZABL, Bullseye Duct, SKR v1.3 with tmc2209 drivers, latest version of Marlin.). I have one heavily modified Ender 3 (SKR v1.4 Turbo with tmc5160s, z-leadscrew coupler, hemera hotend, bltouch v3.1, 3dfused x/y/z rails, 3 point bed leveling, EzFlex2 PEI system, LED lighting, upgraded fans, and many more mods, modified Marlin firmware) The modified one is only better than the other two when it comes to printing other material types, and speed. The stock ender and the modified can print the same model, with the same material, with the same quality. Except, the stock I run at 50mm/s and the modded I run at 175mm/s. (When doing PLA. Have to raise the heat on the hotend to hit those speeds.)

[@plazmax]

" z-leadscrew coupler" - what z coupler u r using can u give a link pls ?

[@TheZolon]

@@plazmax th3d sells it. www.th3dstudio.com/product/upgraded-leadscrew-coupler-for-cr-10-cr-10s-tornado-ender-2-and-more/

[@plazmax]

@@TheZolon thank you

[@L3aRn2Th1nK]

First of all, LOVE THAT SHIRT!!!! Second, I'd like to have seen a printing test that actually showed the upgrade's superiority, i.e. a larger print or a failed one on the stock printer vs the upgraded one. Other than that, nice video!

[@tiagocosta9714]

woah that noise comparison was crazy. i didnt realize how load the stock motors were until you showed that

[@venera13]

I have a stock Ender 3 Pro. I printed off usual part upgrades for it but aside for the bed springs and glass build surface it's stock. I love it, I did some mini figure prints at 0.05mm layer height and the result looked like it was made on a resin printer. Super high detail, no print lines and the finish right off the printer is almost glossy smooth. That being said I do plan on doing the noise mods down the road, it's not horribly loud, it's quieter than the Standard Ender 3, but if I can make it quieter why not. I liked how you approached this video and your conclusions. My mostly stock Ender 3 Pro works wonders for me so I probbaly won't modify it too much, but I will probbaly as time goes on swap out parts here and there just for continence sake. noise reduction for sure, the bowden tube and hot end are also on my list of future upgrades.

[@MarkLawry]

Thank you. That was very helpful. It confirms for me That i can't justify upgrades for my simple use. But I will know when they are useful for someone else.

[@iminabrons]

I would like to know how much did all these improvements cost. Approximately anyway. Plus I would be very interested to see a video that compares a printer which is the same price as your Ender 3 with extras. The idea being that an owner putting time, effort and money into modding is certainly worth it.

[@salvatoremilitello8490]

i was gonna comment the same thing i am about to get another printer and i have a ender3 i have several upgrades on it and was wondering the price of a fully upgraded ender3 - the touch screen(only upgrade i dont care about) and finishing upgrading my current printer almost like in the video but the ender5plus seems like my next machine if i had the money i might have to save up for a while tho

[@salvatoremilitello8490]

@@GerdLPluu a big reason for a video to be made with links to the parts used is for people who want to achieve similar goals and results and to that end there are so many options for the same part example is that shotty red all metal dual gear drive so many have the wrong size needle bearings or the gear is not drilled straight I have gone thru 3 with all ending up with the gear tilting sideways and locking up now i have the ezr and i chose it form many reviews including from this channel and I'm sure buying knock offs will hurt u in the long run buy the original from the real manufacturer or suffer like i have by constant aggravations of buying something that is considered a 2nd or 3rd "rejected by the real manufacturer" that don't hold tolerances or specs to the original version straight outta the box the Genuine product from me genuine manufacturer is worth the extra in my life experiences but still sometimes I still buy the knockoff version and they are fine but most of the time knockoffs are garbage

[@outsider344]

Several hundred over the base cost. However this is a very strange configuration and many of these upgrades can be done cheeper.

[@salvatoremilitello8490]

@@outsider344 once again buying cheaper parts leads to buying 3rds or 4th in parts picking order 1 manufacturing company makes them all but each reseller buys 1st pic thru 5th pic in some cases depends on how long the cast or machine can hold tolerances for the best experience buy the genuine name brand and u should get a 1st grade parts that make up what u are buying it cannot be any more cut and dry

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

The other point is, "cheap" buy-in to get started. Then add upgrades as you can afford/want/need them. Yes, you will likely end up doubling the price of the base unit, but incrementally. It helps reduce the barrier to the hobby. I'd never have bought a Prusa mk series at their prices, but now I have a machine, modded, that prints just as well if not better. Probably for less money. Of course there's sweat-equity than isn't easily measured, but tinkerers usually have more time than money.

[@AlwarrenSidh]

I have a Sovol SV02 that I bought mid-February, and it was my first 3D printer. Since then I upgraded to a flexible sheet metal bed and added a BL Touch. I do consider both of these additions essential. The SV02 is generally a very solid printer and I really like it, but the bed upgrade and BL touch are really what makes it stand out for me. I've also added a few 3D printed parts like filament guides to prevent too tight a corner in the feed, which also helped quite a bit. Overall, I think upgrading your printer is a good idea, especially as a "reaction" to something that you feel could be improved, like the automatic levelling

[@Johnn_T]

Excellent video Michael and can I say a very long overdue one-it must be an absolute nightmare if you are just getting into the hobby going into the Facebook groups and asking people If there’s anything they need to know about the ender 3 or CR10 or any of the Creality machines before they start, only to get bombarded with people who are “modders” by choice telling them that they need to do all these things that in reality they might not actually need at all. Very pleased you did this video I think you nailed the question that every Newbie asks on day one. My own machine is one of the very first batch I’ve owned it since before a lot of people have even been making videos about the printer-People continually harp on about the bedsprings being no good But I would like to add that two years later I’m still using the original bedsprings and I seldom (if ever) level my bed-all I did was add a glass print surface, and here is the magic tip to prevent bedsprings from getting destroyed and the need to relevel the bed-don’t hack your prints off, if you let the glass cool they self release🤷‍♂️ Would be interesting to see a video where you put your highly modified printer up against your genuine prusa Mk3. Thanks again for a very informative video👍

[@TeachingTech]

Feel free to link them to this when the question comes up. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@virtualplaygames801]

i think that there is a point missing : the price of the mods. With all of those mods the price is way more than doubled. I know that you can put the ones for what you want to upgrade but i think that mentioning the price of those mods would have been good. the linear kit for the X axis is around 90$ the SKR mini E3 (the mainboard) is around 30$ and that is without the drivers the 2209 are just over 30$ for 4pcs The BLtouch is just under 40$ (without the mount but you could print one yourself) the modular extruder kit is around 35$ ezr struder is around 35$ the micro swiss all metal hotend is just under 65$ and that is not all of the mods and we allready have way more than the original price of the ender 3 just in mods.

[@TeachingTech]

I addressed this in a pinned post, please have a read.

[@Dave_the_Dave]

Similar mods, without buying "kits" are doable for much less. The X axis linear rail for example. One can buy a linear rail for about $20, and print their own adapter for the carriage. A BMG style extruder is another $20, and again, a DIY mount to turn it into direct drive can be done quite easily. On my printers (no Ender 3, yet) the best upgrade I've done is the BMG extruder.

[@vladimirseven777]

And you only mentioned the cheapest options. Not Duet mainboard, E3D new extruders (almost same price as Ender printer), ruby nozzles etc. As for me i3 printers requiring upgrade #1 - replace mechanic from moving bed to something normal.

[@nthn-]

The mini E3 I bought for £20 ($26) came with tmc2209s? Where did you get the idea they don't ship drivers

[@virtualplaygames801]

@@nthn- my mistake, i was thinking of the SKR E3 (not mini)

[@vedanshgoenka2702]

I have a ender 3 pro with a few upgrades (motherboard, extruder, Bowden tube, and bed springs). My flexible stock bed has started to lose its adhesion and there are a few scuffs on the bed (including 1 hole... Oops!). Which magnetic spring steel bed is reliable, but also cheap. The everflex pei seems to always be out of stock.

[@DarrenC_1024]

The only thing that I hate about my Ender 3 is, the slowness of the 8-bit controller. Very often, when I am choosing a file to print, the slowness caused the screen to not refresh the selected file on time, and not knowing where the dial landed on the selection, it's quite common that I'd only know that I've chosen and printed the next file which is not what I want, until it's too late and wasted my filament, time and efforts (I'll have to stop the print, clean up the wrong print from the bed, re-calibrate, and re start the print, this time with lots longer wait for the selection, and wait for the heat-up again). The 32-bit controller and touchscreen is definitely my next upgrade to save up for.

[@nthn-]

There's a cura script that shows the filename while it is printing which might help you out there, and I think the custom firmware might be configurable to have confirm screens?

[@DarrenC_1024]

@@nthn- Thanks for the info, will check on it :)

[@tomandrews5392]

I have started with a stock Ender 3 Pro changed everything now all metal hot end, liner rails x,y & z 32 bit board and TFT35 E3 v3 ..overall works great ..prints are outstanding now...

[@mrdot1126]

how much did it cost?

[@tomandrews5392]

@@mrdot1126 My goal was to improve on what I got ..Cost is on you ..You can go to the website and determine if the upgrades bi did and suited to your needs..

[@Mark-ks9jj]

Great video Michael - clear easy to follow information which for someone just starting out is brilliant

[@SolarityTechnology]

This video and the 400mm upgrade video make me question if I should cancel my Prusa i3 mk3s. Could we see a comparison of a highly regarded highend, like the Prusa vs. the entry, yet heavily level modded printer, like your Ender 3?

[@ifell3]

Modified benchy looks a bit funky at the bottom. Apart from that I think you've hit the nail on the head. Good mods you have, I recommend doing a mod then test, then do a mod and test. Like anything, it's easier to find the bad mod that way.

[@hackfleisch7424]

Now that i have owned and modded my Ender 3 Pro for a year i can probably draw some conclusions: 1. Don't buy the basic Ender 3 (Pro). Get something like the Neo or S1 if you can afford it in any way. 2. If it prints fine (enough), don't touch it. 3. You will buy the features of the Neo/S1 at some point anyway. 4. The best upgrades (in that order) are automatic bed leveling, a silent board and the dual z drive. 5. Some cheap but useful upgrades are harder bed springs, a filament holder with bearings and a better fan duct.

[@Commander_ZiN]

I have a printrbot from years ago, just started getting back into it. I haven't modded it much I did plan a few upgrades but it'll be difficult since they went under. While I think the quality of the stock Ender looks marginally better because of my Printrbot simple there's some things I can't live without. I love autoleveling and direct drive, I use a laptop instead of a built in screen but I'd definitely the touch screen too best of both worlds. Linear rails though they didn't seem to make much difference but then coming from a printrbot simple which has practically zero maintenance maybe that's the reason for them.

[@BeepDog]

Very nice. I've got a Nimble V2 on my shortlist for direct drive. I also really like the TouchScreen. And the 32-bit mainboard is on there also. SO MUCH TINKERING.

[@lostinseale]

I agree to modify but taking it slowly. I have modified my printer one purchased part and one printed part a week. Printing with it for a few days and then offering the next part. Usually order on Sunday, install Wednesday, see what I want to do next. Then starting the cycle over again. I have made on purchase I regret and three prints I gave away because I did not like the mod. I have been very happy with my Ender 3 Pro.

[@christinalooker7912]

I really enjoy your videos. I have an Ender 3 and find your videos very well informed. Thank you!

[@xl000]

to avoid such stupid injury at 11:24 I add a slight bevel at the bottom of the object if possible, and, put the scraper next to the object and hammer it slightly with your dominant hand, using a small to medium hammer. I learned it the hard way, I once ended up with a chisel contacting my left thumb, and another time with an Opinel slicing through my index finger. It may be obvious, but you never want to have your hand in the possible trajectory of a tool. I know someone how ended up with a full PZ2 bit plus a part a the bit holder through his left hand, an actual through and through hole. You wouldn't think a PZ2 but would break the skin and whatnot...

[@Yavorh55]

The noise reduction point is huge. I can't believe how much better it is now on my AI3Mega with 2209s and TH3D fans

[@danandrei96]

great video, but I really wish you tried out higher speeds

[@marifla9266]

Seconded

[@louiel8711]

Upgraded with a metal extruder when the stock gear and roller bearing wore out onr my Ender 3, changed to Capricorn tubing when the stock Bowden tube wore out. Added TL smoothers to all 4 axis when they were on sale to improve surface quality. Maybe add an all metal hot end when the stock one needs replacing. I do enjoy tinkering with and repairing my own equipment for me it's fun.

[@mattlott1113]

My CR-10S is modified to the point that almost the only thing remaining stock is the frame. Can I even call it a CR-10S anymore?

[@lioneljouvet4517]

I am in the same case with my CR10. I added regularly improvements to it as I learned to better understand it. The whole process gave me a in-depth understanding of FDM printers to which this channel was a major contributing part (namely bl touch, controller board, stepper controllers and linear advance tuning). Later, this knowledge and skills were paramount for my current activity in our Odense's MakerSpace (the O'Town Garage)

[@georgeprout42]

Only Fools and Horses, Trigger's broom kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnLLaXuorruUm7s

[@salvatoremilitello8490]

@@lioneljouvet4517 that is like how im going about things and i think its the best way to learn jump in to the deep end and tread water until i learn how to swim lmao

[@LordZarano]

@@georgeprout42 Metaphysics of identity, Ship of Theseus en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus

[@dominikhejl5748]

when i was choosing my first printer, i decided for an Ender 3. now, after i started printing (literaly now, it runs for 4 hours after assembly) i know i did the right decision. i bought it for 4k CZK and if i spend another 4K on it, it will have the same or better print quality as prusa MK3 for 20K CZK, even modified ender 3 has far better price/performance aspect. no wonder E3 is considered one of the best (if not the best) entry level 3D printer with good print quality out of the box. i am glad i bouht it and when the need comes, upgrades will come with it.

[@RichardRecupero]

ender 3 pro here. $20 all metal hot end swiss knockoff. took some adjusting but wow its better. $10 all metal extruder and capricorn tubing. upgraded springs for bed level glass top Ender 3 prints great now. was losing my mind with lost prints and terrible quality and or extrusion issues. also found a kick ass start/end cura profile online that saved my life. very happy with my printer now and now im making tons of fun stuff for the kids and myself

Cool T-shirt! Very good video as always!

[@gazgadgets]

Thanks Michael. Another good vid. I've modded my Ender 3 and as you say the Printer out of the box is pretty good. I would also say that not all mods go to plan and can require a heap of troubleshooting to dial in. I have had trouble with a number of mods not going to plan. My top 3 mods are the SKR Mini E3 board with the TMC drivers on board, the Wham Bam surface and the upgraded bed springs. Still don't have ABL so far I the bed has stayed rock solid and, as you say, the magnetic bad stops having to muck around removing a print with the bed still on the printer.

[@pauldreyer6111]

Hey guys, I have a mostly stock ender 3 with a glass bed. I use the glue stick method. To releasing parts easier, I’ve found if you lay the glass bed on a flat table, place your scraper where you normally would to pry a part, and tap the back with a wrench it pops off clean every time. This quick tap overcomes the adhesive friction with ease and you’ll avoid smashing any more knuckles. Don’t get to rowdy with it! Cheers guys!

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

On the Ender 3 if you do want to print ABS you do need to upgrade your printer, use a glass bed, more heat on the bed, different nozzle, better drive rollers, rewire your motherboard fan so it always runs because on the fan control you shut off your fan to cool your nozzle which kills your capability to print ABS. 2 more things we should cover is the BLTouch is a big thing which without the new motherboard can become a hassle to get done. So if you do your BL Touch do your motherboard as well. And put an adapter on for your micro SD to SD in a position you can access easier will make your job easier if you don't go the octoprint route.

[@PaulLemars01]

Another excellent video Michael. My E3 is definitely not stock but most of the mods are for ease of use. I print on 2mm glass and I printed a handle for the bed so I never actually touch the bed itself. This means that the level seems to stay put and I rarely manually level the bed. I used dampers on the X and Y drives and that quietens the steppers down considerably. I haven't changed the driver because I use Octoprint to drive both my printers from the one Raspberry Pi. I control both printers remotely from my PC. I'm going to get Noctua fans for the entire printer because the PSU fan is now the loudest noise source. Thanks again for your insights.

[@adrianmartinescu1107]

I think I've definitely improved my printer and printing experience overall by modifying it, of course with a big thanks to you Michael! In the beginning with my stock Ender 3, I would have to level the bed every month or so, which doesn't sound bad until all those bed leveling issues lead to many failed prints. It also became a little annoying always having to load the print files on the SD card and walk to the printer to load and print it, as well as checking up on if the print is going well (i put the printer in the garage due to noise and print gasses from the occasional ABS). So with my set up now it truly is effortless to print what i want. I have a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint loaded to control my printer, as well as the Telegram app running within Octoprint and on my phone. So I can choose a print from all my previously sent files, load and print them, check up on them by requesting pictures or gifs, as well as being able to tune, pause and abort prints all from my phone (using the Telegram app linked to Octoprint) or my PC. And with a BL touch ABL system, i haven't actually leveled my bed in months with no issues :) Also just a side note, I've found a flat piece of glass with some glue stick (that tube of glue you use for normal paper in school?) lightly applied to the surface makes a rough, sticky when hot surface that lasts for many, many prints, and i haven't washed/changed the glue on the bed in months. Nice part is whether printing PLA, ABS, PETG, it all sticks well when printing, and as soon as the bed reaches ambient (20-30 degrees), the prints come off on their own.

[@arthurdent8091]

Good day. A very well thought out and logical approach. I agree with you right down the line. Keep up the good work. Cheers.

[@Duewester]

Since I installed a Pi and OctoPi I rarely ever use the stock interface. Guess I need to look into ABL though.

[@davidpeters7447]

Thomas Veach the great thing about a bl is when you have it setup you can be guaranteed of starting the print and walk away knowing it is going to work and be consistent.

[@ShootLuckGaming]

11:15 , Run the edge of your scraper on a grinder or sander and sharpen it. I got mine super sharp and it peels prints off super easy

[@sasikgames]

Isn't that acually an Ender 3 pro with the mods? Jugging by the 2x40 extruded pillars on the Y axis visible at the bottom of the screen 10:13 also the powersupply housing is different, asking for my confirmation :) because I want to buy an Ender, but the differences between only the ender 3 lineup is a mess.

[@wybird666]

So this begs the question: how much have you spent in total on the upgraded printer, and what could you have gotten for that price out of the box? For sure this approach also depends on end user. Many use the upgrade process to spread the cost, learn more about the technology and simply as a hobby - something to tinker with. Additionally, one can choose which upgrades they want and source the exact parts they need to meet their requirements and budget making the compromises that best suits them. Whereas on the other end of the scale some people have x amount to spend and want the best they can get for that money out of the both (where best = the one that satisfies their needs the most).

[@juanjimenez9705]

Great video! Printing is just a portion of the hobby. I think some of the upgrades will make you more knowledgeable about how the printer works, and improve the quality of the models.

[@Chad_gamer2]

Man! I learned so much form this! Thank you for all this good info! I think I am more inclined to treat my printer as a tool rather than it being a hobby for me to mess around with it. though I don't mind giving my printer a fix whenever it needs it.

[@cabe_bedlam]

I've added a bl touch, with custom fan shroud (because I needed to start somewhere), filament guide, and an octopi to my Ender3. These mods are all quality of life rather than direct print quality improvements and work for me. Pretty much all I have left on the list is direct drive for more reliable TPU prints.

[@1akmason]

I believe there’s something else that comes from upgrading our 3-D printers it’s also a teaching tool you learn more about your printer as you look to solve problems or improve quality that’s the one thing I love about my ender 3 it was inexpensive enough to justify getting it just for experimenting, it prepared me for much more expensive 3D printers

[@avejst]

Great video as always I have updated my Ender 3 in a long time. I Have made a lot of errors, and learned a lot in the process If you want to print out of the box, have a Pruca (mini or 3S) If you have time to evolve with the printer, have a Ender 3 or Ender 5 Thanks for sharing

[@yitspaerl7255]

A very good video again. See the next not as criticism but as a well ment advice. Although I miss some test objects that will be printed often in real life. That are enclosures which can be hard to print. Hollow, non vase objects can be daunting to print. Not with PLA but as soon as you start printing with ABS you can get problems with bed adhesion. With PETG other problems can play depending on your printer part cooling quality among other things. I think a lot of viewers are waiting to master these sort of real life objects in stead of the usual dogs and boats. You are an excellent teacher and technician. I am sure you can make something interesting out of this.

[@Jlmportela1]

Great comparision, even greater T-shirt!

[@sir-jj3552]

Excellent information and summary, thanks Michael.

[@WalkerBikes]

Waiting for my printer to arrive this Friday, fantastic video, can't wait to get started. I've had an Anet A8 for two years and got tired of constantly tweaking and fixing. Hopefully this one will be a bit more robust.

[@whothis8933]

Silentboard is a must. couldn't believe the difference, i was going nuts from the sound before the upgrade.

[@srspinho]

Loved your T-Shirt !

[@spikekent]

Great video and advice Michael. My Prusa MK2 is stock (well mostly stock) But the CR10s4 aka Borg, was brought purely to be hacked to within an inch of it's life. Yep, I love to tinker.

[@shaunmorrissey7313]

Talking upgrades we never did get a follow up to the exoslide episode, what were your final thoughts?. After 2208's and a Bltouch the best thing I did for my Enders was to kit them out with a v6 and bantamount with 5015 blowers,.

[@TeachingTech]

I took them off and changed to linear rails because the size was smaller. Not a problem for most but the exoslides hung lower and made me have to cut my enclosure for to clear, which let the heat escape. Had no problems with them apart from that.

[@AdityaMehendale]

That T-shirt tho...

[@lioneljouvet4517]

:)

[@e-pi5189]

Yeah

[@arkadiuszrydzewski6982]

Thanks to Your help I am now printing masks for the doctors. Whole country is printing (We are just trying to help ) :) Thanks to the modifications described by you: My Ender3 is: - quiet (mainboard swapped), - easier to operate (automatic bed leveling) - and the prints are repeatable (new firmware etc). I am just taking out finished part and printing the next one. Marvelous. And it still wasn't expensive. I am the one who did not want to spend a lot of money on a potentially "dust gathering hobby toy". But I couldn't stop myself from updating it (with low amounts of money). Now I can say that it is not a "totally black box" for me -> washing machine is, I don't know what is inside (... can guess). I still face problems - with (some) stringing, extruder hopping ... it feels like a complicated machine that needs much more attention than I'd want to give it. For example a new filament can be a struggle (temperatures , print speed etc) I still feel like I need to learn more. And I can not afford to pay for some "self handling" hardware (if such a thing exists). Congratulations, and keep up the great work. Maybe you've already saved some lives. A

[@technodrone313]

a dual gear extruder or at least an all metal one is a must. and getting rid of the floppy bed for the creality glass upgrade is all you really need.

[@Peter_Parker69]

My ender 3 V2 came with a warped glass bed. I considered getting the BL-touch and use mesh-bed leveling. After reading all the bugs and errors people struggled with, I'm glad I just ordered a new glass-bed instead lol. I also tried octoprint for a weekend and had some weird bugs, prints just stopped half way through. Got a cheap android security camera and wifi power switch instead. I can monitor it from both PC and mobile and cut the power when it's done or if it fails. Considered a dual gear metal extruder upgrade too, but saw chep and the others had a grinding issue. So glad I just stuck with the vanilla. The ender 3 V2 prints beautifully out of the box for a low price. Spend time maintaining lose screws, change worn out parts instead, and you'll have great time 3D-printing!

[@jamessawyer1331]

I got a CR20, upgraded to BMG, Glass Plate, Custom Heating solution for Extruder, Noctua Fan 40MM and 5015. At the end, I threw the whole printer in ANGER and reminiscing how Awesome the Prints was out of the box.. Gonna get the Ender 3 V2 and I'm not even gonna change the ptfe tube..

[@henricoderre]

Some mods are better than others. I own 2 Ender 3 V2 3D printers and have only been printing with PLA. I'm servicing one of my printers now. It's been out of service for a while now. On my working printer, I added a second lead screw to the right side of the printer and permanently got rid of the sagging X gantry problem. I replaced the springs with silicone mounts, and have not had to relevel my bed since I levelled it a week ago. I replaced the Bowden extruder system with a direct drive extruder and my extruder is no longer fighting to push filament through to the hot end. I will be duplicating these mods on my older printer, and hopefully get it working again. I've tried Jyers firmware, and went back to Creality's firmware. Jyers may have added more features, but I think there are 3 different areas, maybe more, that allow you to modify the Z axis and offsets. I found it more confusing to use. I tried the BLTouch, but it doesn't level the bed, and the ads are misleading. I had more difficulties levelling my bed with the auto bed-levelling device than without it. So, I removed it, and bed-levelling has been easier to do since.

[@TesserLink]

well this just sold me on getting a ender 3. ive been using a heavily modified mp select mini v2 but i could never get the build size anywhere near this one with good reliability.

[@islakkie]

My opinion is that you either buy a printer for a project or as the project. Bed levelling is the single most useful upgrade I done and improved the usability loads

[@moth.monster]

The only must-have mod is a little fan cover for the electronics box, and a few clips to prevent the cables from snagging. Aside from that, the stock Ender 3 is pretty decent.

[@SchwachsinnProduzent]

and after a few months a new metal extruder, when the extruder arm starts to fail. A filament guide is also recommended to make the extruder last longer

[@moth.monster]

@@SchwachsinnProduzent I'd definitely reccomend the EZR-Struder as an extruder upgrade myself, it's pretty cheap, easy to install, and works really well.

[@veec1539]

Not a must have but definitely #1 is the skr mini (or other 32bit board with silent controllers). Went from moving printer to garage for overnight prints to keeping it in my room

[@bsharp55]

I modded my Monoprice i3 with a Bear frame and Keenovo heater. The stability has made a huge difference. I level the bed less often, can use the entire 220x220 print bed and the bed temp is far more consistent.

[@repivci]

i got my ender 3 a week or so ago, my first (working) printer, i would like this as a hobby and i think this is a good video for some one like me who wants to use it for the hobby, i definitely need to get the quite bits for mine.

[@W4TRI_Ronny]

Thanks for your agreement Michael!

[@MrDead1975]

the best thing about modifying a cheap printer is learning how everything works including firmware. it preps you for when you're ready to build a high end printer like the Ratrig.

[@batman9592]

I loved my CR-10 when it was stock and the best print ever was the test print Cat (once i got the bed up to temp). Since then i've modified it (because i must with everything) and have to ask myself: why? If it ain't broke... Mods: Capricorn tube and BL Touch. But i planned on using it for high temp prints (ABS) and hate manually re-leveling every print after cleaning/ removal. So... win? I have to admit i do actually love the noise of the servo motors (i was born in the 80's and a printer was very entertaining), but it is a bit of a deal breaker for long over night prints now. If i can't isolate the sound in the garage in a box, i will have to address that next.

[@jpsilvashy]

My Ender 5 Pro came set up so well I hardly had to level the bed, had perfect prints right when I set it up. Maybe I'll go up to a really large printer, or maybe a resin printer next, rather than going all in to make my ender 5 better, since I feel there is little to gain on the quality side. Maybe over time will need some fixes and I'll upgrade those parts then. Got a bl-touch though, need that.

[@DennisMurphey]

Excellent video. My 3D experience began with the Plastic M3D printer and I was making new design model train parts that functioned, like a Smoke Housing. But the little plastic unit was wearing out. I had upgraded the board but really needed a larger printer. I wanted to get the largest I could afford. To build Train Bodies, and Chassis. I was very lucky to find a Creality 10S Pro V1 that was a buyer return, on sale as an open box unit. I got the machine but had troubles right away. Even thought the Dog printed beautifully, nothing else came out as good. Over time i learned from you and others the areas i needed to upgrade. My 10S Pro has been busy printing train Parts for over a year and has had issues and upgrades. Now I want to consider additional upgrades or may a smaller {Mini} printer for more detailed small parts. I don't want to add Resin Printing because of the chemical processes. Yet I see such good parts on less modified machines. Which way to go? Should I focus on the larger 10S Pro or add a Specially modified Smaller machine like your Ender 3 Example. I need to print much hotter parts that can withstand the heat of the Smoke Generator. That will require Direct Drive. Extruder. DDX for 10S Pro is hard to find and not cheap. 10S Mini or Ender 3 seems to be much cheaper to modify for these needs. I love the color motor touch panel you have, and the 32 bit board. Just what is available for the 10S Pro? Always watch and use you educational videos. All the best, Dennis in Virginia

[@schm4704]

For me, any upgrade regarding noise or removing parts from the build plate is totally worth it. I had some very frustrating experiences damaging parts when prying them off of Creality's Faketak. Since I mostly do large, flat-ish parts without much detail and only in PLA, I would have left the hot end stock.

[@TheRoadRoamer]

Another great vid, micheal. Been a while due to RL but I’m back. 👍🙏🏽💕